Applications of Popular Botanical Ingredients in OTC Skincare
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Applications of Popular Botanical Ingredients in OTC Skincare Popular in cosmeceutical regimens, botanicals are increasingly available in OTC products to moisturize, soothe itch, and provide other benefits. By Jeanine B. Downie, MD otanical extracts have been used on the skin for dermatitis, a common allergic reaction to plants.3 A millennia. Contemporary written reports and novel parthenolide-free extract of feverfew (PFE-fever- accumulated evidence tell us that Cleopatra few) compound has removed the parthenolide compo- Bused botanical-based topical formulations for nent to obviate the sensitization potential. In one cosmetic purposes and to condition her skin. Today, study, the agent had in vitro anti-inflammatory the US cosmeceutical market is an estimated $10-14 effects, as indicated by a reduction in release of pro- billion industry, and a majority of those products are inflammatory cytokines. In vivo, PFE-feverfew built upon botanical extracts. Botanical ingredients reduced DNA damage and hyperplasia following UV are also now incorporated into many mass-market exposure. There was also a reduction in UV-induced skincare products developed for both adults and chil- skin erythema as a result of PFE-feverfew dren. Following is a look at some of the more popular application.4 botanical ingredients used in mass-market skincare Another trial confirmed the ability of PFE-feverfew products. The emphasis is on topical application and to inhibit the activity of pro-inflammatory enzymes skincare formulations, not on oral botanical-based supplements. Take-Home Tips. Botanical ingredients are now incorporated into many mass-market skincare products developed for both adults and Feverfew children. If patients are interested in “natural” or botanical A popular topical botanical currently is feverfew skincare, the accumulated evidence suggests that some products may (Tanacetum parthenium), a member of the sunflower family. Feverfew’s common name derives from its be worthwhile. For patients with “sensitive skin,” eczema, atopic ancient oral use as a fever reducer. The antioxidant- dermatitis, or any acute or chronic, inflammatory, pruritic skin rich botanical is shown to have anti-inflammatory, condition, products containing feverfew, colloidal oatmeal, or anti-irritant, and anti-cancer properties and is used as sunflower seed oil may be useful adjuncts to other therapeutic an oral supplement to treat migraine headaches.2 interventions. Patients with rosacea and pigmentary alterations may One challenge associated with the topical applica- benefit from products featuring licorice root extract. ● tion of feverfew derivatives is the risk of parthenium October 2010 | Practical Dermatology | 29 Botanical OTC Products Limitations of the Research Colloidal oatmeal Colloidal oatmeal is derived from dehulled oat ker- When it comes to topically-applied botanical ingredients, it is nels. The active components include polysaccharides, important that an individual evaluating products keep in mind the proteins, lipids, enzymes, saponins, flavonoids, vita- limitations of the available data. As dermatologists know, pub- mins, and prostaglandin synthesis inhibitors. Use of lished studies often document the biological activities of botani- finely ground colloidal oatmeal (Avena sativa L.) to cal ingredients ingested orally or applied topically, but there are soothe skin is an ancient practice, and the use of oat- generally few published controlled trials of finished formula- meal baths is still common to help control pruritic, tions. So, for example, while there is good scientific evidence inflammatory skin manifestations like poison ivy and that topically applied aloe vera confers local anti-inflammatory chicken pox. Colloidal oatmeal functions as a effects, it is less clear what concentration of aloe vera is neces- cleanser, moisturizer, buffer, as well as a soothing and 6 sary to confer those benefits or whether any particular aloe-con- protective anti-inflammatory agent. Colloidal oatmeal taining lotion is more beneficial than another. has been used to treat atopic dermatitis and inflam- matory skin diseases and is known to repair barrier Furthermore, when it comes to botanical ingredients, the qual- dysfunction, reduce skin inflammation and irritation.2 ity of the raw botanical material is a crucial consideration. Many The anti-pruritic effects of colloidal oatmeal were respected manufacturers derive botanical ingredients only from demonstrated in a study of burn wounds. Patients specific, controlled crops to ensure quality and consistency. who applied to healing burn wounds a topical mois- These important considerations are not necessarily limitations turizer containing colloidal oatmeal reported signifi- of topical botanicals, as many high-quality botanical-based cantly less itch and used fewer antihistamines than skincare formulations are currently on the market. These have patients who used the vehicle moisturizer without demonstrated clinical effectiveness, achieved high levels of colloidal oatmeal.7 patient and physician endorsement, and in many cases have con- Colloidal oatmeal also provides protective and trolled data to support their efficacy. Physicians interested in moisturizing benefits, thought to derive from the high learning more about specific formulations can contact the manu- concentration of starches and beta-glucans that hold facturers with requests for information. Trusted manufacturers water.7 The botanical is high in oat phenols, some of test their finished formulations in controlled trials that may not which are strong ultraviolet absorbers and under always be as rigorous as pharmaceutical drug trials but are gen- investigation as sunscreen ingredients.7 erally well-designed and reliable. Colloidal oatmeal is featured in Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief products, including creamy wash, bath treatment, and moisture cream, as well as and the release of pro-inflammatory mediators from Aveeno Baby Daily Care washes and moisturizer, and macrophages and from human peripheral blood Aveeno Skin Relief BodyWash. Aveeno Daily moistur- mononuclear cells. In vivo, PFE-feverfew inhibited izing lotion and Aveeno Eczema Care also feature col- dermatitis in two different murine models.5 loidal oatmeal. Eucerin Calming Crème Daily mois- Most feverfew-containing skincare products are turizer is a fragrance-free formulation that also fea- intended for anti-aging use or to manage adult der- tures oatmeal to moisturize the skin and soothe itch. matoses, such as rosacea. However, given its efficacy Eucerin Calming itch treatment adds menthol for in combating dermatoses in vivo, there is increasing additional anti-pruritic effect. interest in using feverfew for atopic dermatitis and “sensitive skin.” PFE-feverfew is formulated into the Sunflower seed oil Aveeno Active Naturals line in their “Ultra-Calming” Botanically-derived oils have been studied as possible products. These include a facial cleanser, daily facial low-cost moisturizers, but studies suggest variability moisturizer with SPF, and a sunscreen, which may be in their effectiveness. For example, application of sun- suitable for use on eczema-prone skin and rosacea. flower (Helianthus annuus) seed oil was shown to 30 | Practical Dermatology | October 2010 Botanical OTC Products accelerate epidermal barrier function repair in mouse Licochalcone is incorporated into the Eucerin models, while other botanical oils actually delayed Redness Relief System, which includes cleanser, SPF repair.8 When sunflower seed oil was applied three- moisturizer, and a nightly serum. TNS Essential times daily to preterm infants in one study, it was Serum has licorice in it as well as Vivite Vibrance. shown to improve overall skin health and reduce Both cosmeceuticals help to even out skin tone and nosocomial infections compared to controls.9 improve texture. Sunflower seed oil contains high levels of essential fatty acids, including linoleic acid. A novel sunflower Lavender and chamomile oleodistillate (SOD) has been shown to increase epi- Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia or Lavandula offici- dermal lipid synthesis and to reduce inflammation in nalis) takes its name from the Latin word “to wash,” vitro and in animal models. In one study, an SOD 2% presumably because it was commonly used as a fra- emulsion demonstrated moisturizing properties in 20 grance in baths. Lavender oil is shown to have strong adult volunteers with atopic skin and had a strong antioxidant properties.15 Orally, lavender oil supple- steroid-sparing effect. Other studies in infants and mentation has been associated with anti-inflammatory babies with AD have shown a positive impact on and analgesic effects.16 Topically applied lavender oil quality-of-life parameters.10 has shown antimicrobial effects17,18 and is under inves- Sunflower oleodistillate is the primary compo- tigation as an anti-tick treatment.19 nent of Stelatopia products from Mustela, which Despite these potential uses for topical lavender include moisturizing cream, cream cleanser, and oil, currently its primary use in skincare products is milky bath oil. as an anxiolytic and sleep-promoting fragrance. Studies have shown that lavender oil aromatherapy Licorice root extract effectively reduces anxiety in mouse models of One of the more popular botanical skincare ingredi- induced anxiety with demonstrated effects on neuro- ents lately is “licorice root” (Glycyrrhiza glabra) or transmitters such as dopamine, serotonin, and their “licorice root extract.” The main components