DOCSLIB.ORG

Factors Que Incideixen En L'accés a La Pràctica De L'alpinisme I L'escalda

Total Page：16

File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb

Download full-text PDF Read full-text
Factors Que Incideixen En L'accés a La Pràctica De L'alpinisme I L'escalda FACTORS QUE INCIDEIXEN EN L'ACCÉS A LA PRÀCTICA DE L’ALPINISME I L’ESCALDA: ANÀLISI DES DE LA PERSPECTIVA DE GÈNERE TREBALL DE FI DE GRAU María J. Quero Trigo 4rt CAFE Matí Tutora: Marta Moragas 2018-2019 FACTORS QUE INCIDEIXEN EN L'ACCÉS A LA PRÀCTICA DE L’ALPINISME I L’ESCALDA: ANÀLISI DES DE LA PERSPECTIVA DE GÈNERE María J. Quero Agraïments A la meva família per la seva confiança i afecte, per haver donat tot allò que estava a les seves mans pel meu futur. A la meva tutora d'aquest treball, Marta Moragas. Pel seu treball i dedicació, i per esdevenir un exemple i inspiració per mi, com a professional i com a dona. I per últim, per totes aquelles dones, amigues i companyes que van introduir-se a aquest esport, com a molts altres, i van lluitar per fer-se un racó a tots als cims i grans parets del món. Com també a la meva fillola Maria, que està en camí, per ser una raó per compartir el paper de la dona a la història... per mantenir la història viva, per tu i totes les que venen. 2 FACTORS QUE INCIDEIXEN EN L'ACCÉS A LA PRÀCTICA DE L’ALPINISME I L’ESCALDA: ANÀLISI DES DE LA PERSPECTIVA DE GÈNERE María J. Quero Resum Aquest estudi tracta sobre els factors que incideixen en l'accés a la pràctica de l’alpinisme i l’escalada realitzant una anàlisi des de la perspectiva de gènere. L’objectiu d’aquest estudi és, per tant, la cerca de les barreres o facilitadors que influeixen en l’accés o el desenvolupament de la dona en l’escalada i l’alpinisme. La metodologia d’aquest estudi s’ha desenvolupat a través d’una anàlisi de documents, entrevistes i enquestes. Les entrevistes estan formades per una mostra d’un total de cinc esportistes, tres dones i dos homes, i les enquestes de caràcter anònim amb una mostra total de quaranta-un subjectes. Tal com ens mostren i podem concloure a partir dels resultats de l’estudi a través de la mostra analitzada, existeixen unes barreres i facilitadors sobre la pràctica d’ambdós esports en el cas de la pràctica i desenvolupament de la dona com són: La maternitat i la percepció del risc, els referents i els mitjans de comunicació, la influència de l’entorn proper i les institucions i espònsors. Paraules clau Alpinisme, escalada, gènere, barreres i facilitadors. Abstract This study is focused on the factors that affect access to the practice of mountaineering and climbing, performing analysis from a gender perspective. The objective of this study is, therefore, the search for barriers or facilitators that can influence the access or development of women in climbing and mountaineering. The methodology of this study has been developed through an analysis of documents, interviews and surveys. Interviews were made from a sample of a total of five athletes, three women and two men, and also anonymous surveys were made with a total sample of forty-one subjects. As the results show, we can conclude from the samples analysed, that there are some barriers and facilitators on the practice and development of women such as maternity and risk perception, references and mass media, influence of the surrounding environment, public institutions and sponsors. Keywords Mountaineering, climbing, gender, barriers and facilitators. 3 FACTORS QUE INCIDEIXEN EN L'ACCÉS A LA PRÀCTICA DE L’ALPINISME I L’ESCALDA: ANÀLISI DES DE LA PERSPECTIVA DE GÈNERE María J. Quero ÍNDEX 1. INTRODUCCIÓ ..................................................................................................................... 7 2. MARC TEÒRIC ..................................................................................................................... 8 2.1. Alpinisme ..................................................................................................................................... 11 2.2. Escalada ....................................................................................................................................... 12 2.3. Sostre de vidre i participació de la dona a l’àmbit esportiu ........................................................ 12 2.4. Referents i paper als mitjans de comunicació ............................................................................. 14 2.5. Maternitat, muntanyisme i rols de gènere .................................................................................. 15 2.6. Fisiologia de l’esportista, demandes de l’esport i lesions ........................................................... 17 2.7. Motivacions a la pràctica ............................................................................................................. 21 3. METODOLOGIA .................................................................................................................. 22 3.1. Mètode ........................................................................................................................................ 22 3.2. Model d’anàlisi ............................................................................................................................ 24 3.3. Instruments.................................................................................................................................. 29 3.3.1. Anàlisi de documents ...................................................................................................... 29 3.3.2. Entrevista en profunditat ................................................................................................ 29 3.3.3. Enquesta ......................................................................................................................... 29 3.4. Mostra ......................................................................................................................................... 30 3.4.1. Criteris d’intencionalitat de la mostra ............................................................................ 31 3.5. Tractament i anàlisi de les dades ................................................................................................. 32 3.5.1. Entrevistes ...................................................................................................................... 32 3.5.2. Enquestes ....................................................................................................................... 33 3.6. Criteris de qualitat ....................................................................................................................... 35 3.7. Aspectes ètics ............................................................................................................................... 36 3.7.1. Originalitat ...................................................................................................................... 36 3.7.2. Privacitat i confidencialitat .............................................................................................. 36 4. RESULTATS ........................................................................................................................ 37 4.1. Enquestes..................................................................................................................................... 37 4.2. Entrevistes ................................................................................................................................... 46 5. DISCUSSIÓ ......................................................................................................................... 57 Maternitat i percepció del risc ............................................................................................................... 57 Referents i mitjans de comunicació ....................................................................................................... 64 4 FACTORS QUE INCIDEIXEN EN L'ACCÉS A LA PRÀCTICA DE L’ALPINISME I L’ESCALDA: ANÀLISI DES DE LA PERSPECTIVA DE GÈNERE María J. Quero Influència de l’entorn proper ................................................................................................................. 69 Institucions i espònsors .......................................................................................................................... 73 Factors facilitadors de la pràctica........................................................................................................... 75 6. CONCLUSIONS ................................................................................................................... 78 7. LIMITACIONS ..................................................................................................................... 80 8. LINIES FUTURES DE RECERCA .............................................................................................. 81 9. BIBLIOGRAFIA .................................................................................................................... 83 Annex ......................................................................................................................................... 88 1.1. GUIA DE L’ENTREVISTA ................................................................................................................ 89 1.2. MODEL D’ENQUESTA .................................................................................................................... 91 1.3. MODEL DE FITXA IDENTIFICACIÓ ENTREVISTES ........................................................................... 94 1.4. MODEL DE CONSENTIMENT INFORMAT ....................................................................................... 95 1.5. UNITATS D’ANÀLISI DE LES ENTREVISTES REALITZADES .............................................................
Load more

Recommended publications
  • Further Cutting-Edge Routes (Part II) 1990-2000
    A publication of the South Australian Volume 4, Issue 15 Climbing Club (CCSA)... February 2006 BOLFA Special points of inter- est: Further cutting-edge routes (Part II) • Cutting edge routes 1990-2000 1990-2000 So by the end of 1990, the world had its first route graded 8c+ (34), courtesy of a 25 • Joke of the month foot offering in the UK. It was big news, for it was an unprecedented grade – and a route that would stand the test of time and see only 4 repeats in the next 14 years. Nev- • Gallery ertheless, it wasn’t long before another climb came to challenge it in the difficulty • The Last Word stakes – and this time it was Germany’s turn. 1991 Aktion Direkt (originally UIAA XI) (or 34/35 for us Aussies) was the product of Wolf- gang Gullich in 1991. The line had been a project of local Milan Sykora – though his vision was of a slightly different path up the same radically overhanging bulge. Gullich set to work on the project but chose instead to take a direct finish straight through the business. To do this, he specifically trained 1-finger pockets, but more importantly started a campus boarding regime that up until then, was unheard of. To train for the route, Gullich (amongst other exercises) trained plyometrics – specifi- cally on one-finger first joint edges. This involved dropping down and catching his weight using one-finger of each hand – then springing back up to the next rung. Clearly this type of training helped him, because he went on to climb the route over a period of 8 days (spread over a significantly longer period).
    [Show full text]
  • Motive Spanischer Kletterinnen“
    DIPLOMARBEIT / DIPLOMA THESIS Titel der Diplomarbeit / Title of the Diploma Thesis „Motive spanischer KletterInnen“ verfasst von / submitted by Esther Michor angestrebter akademischer Grad / in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Magistra der Naturwissenschaften (Mag. rer. nat) Wien, 2018 / Vienna, 2018 Studienkennzahl lt. Studienblatt / A 190 482 353 degree programme code as it appears on the student record sheet: Studienrichtung lt. Studienblatt / Lehramt UF Bewegung und Sport UF Spanisch degree programme as it appears on the student record sheet: Betreut von / Supervisor: Univ. Ass. Mag. Dr. Clemens Ley Eidesstattliche Erklärung Ich, Esther Michor, erkläre hiermit, dass ich die vorliegende Arbeit eigenständig angefertigt habe. Informationen aus fremden Quellen, wurden als solche kenntlich gemacht. Diese Arbeit wurde noch keiner anderen Prüfungsbehörde vorgelegt und auch noch nicht veröffentlicht. Ort und Datum Unterschrift Zusammenfassung Klettern? Warum sollte jemand diese scheinbar bedeutungslose, unnütze und risikobehaftete Aktivität ausüben? Aus welchen Gründen gehen Menschen in Spanien Felsklettern, trainieren in Kletterhallen und erklimmen Berggipfel über steile Wände? Verschieben sich Motive aufgrund verschiedener Parameter, wie Alter, Geschlecht, eigene Kinder, Kletterniveau usw.? Um auf diese Fragen Antworten zu finden, wurde ein Onlinefragebogen, mit 43 Motivitems, auf Basis der Klassifizierung von Motiven im Sport von Lehnert, Sudek und Conzelmann (2011), entworfen, ins Spanische übersetzt und über digitale Medien verteilt. Es konnten die Motive von 296 KletterInnen im Alter von 16 bis 63 Jahren aus den verschiedensten Regionen Spaniens untersucht werden. Die Ergebnisse dieser Studie zeigen u. a. folgendes: Als die wichtigsten Beweggründe spanischer KletterInnen haben sich die Motivgruppen „Natur“, „Flow“ und „Leistung/ Herausforderung“ herauskristallisiert. Für Frauen sind die Motive „Bewegungserleben“, „Natur“ und „Flow“ wichtiger als für Männer.
    [Show full text]
  • ARCO ROCK LEGENDS 2015: 10 YEARS of SIMPLY the BEST Arco, 29 July 2015
    ARCO ROCK LEGENDS 2015: 10 YEARS OF SIMPLY THE BEST Arco, 29 July 2015 On Friday, September 4, 2015 the Arco Rock Legends will celebrate its 10th edition and assign the prestigious Salewa Rock Award and La Sportiva Competition Award during the Rock Master Festival and the World Youth Climbing Championships 2015. Those nominated for the sport climbing Oscars are Angela Eiter, Alexander Megos and Ashima Shiraishi, while those in the running for the La Sportiva Competition Award are Adam Ondra, Jain Kim and Jakob Schubert. The prestigious Climbing Ambassador by Aquafil will be awarded to John Ellison, founder of the initiative Climbers against Cancer. Ten years of Arco Rock Legends. Ten years of the best climbers in the world celebrated - just like real silver screen Oscar stars - in the Italian town of Arco. A decade, in short, of the best of the best. This is the important anniversary that will be celebrated on Friday, September 4 during the most important sport climbing competition in the world, the Rock Master Festival. Yet again this event has mutated and from 28 August to 6 September it will also celebrate the World Youth Climbing Championships 2015; over a thousand young climbers from across the globe are expected and Arco, and the Arco Rock Legends, are currently adding the finishing touches to celebrate this absolutely unique event. As is well known, the prestigious Arco Rock Legends is split into two categories, the Salewa Rock Award for those who excel outdoors, on sports climbs and in bouldering, and the La Sportiva Competition Award for the athlete who distinguishes him or herself in competitions.
    [Show full text]
  • 5 Star Routes
    1 | CALIFORNIA CLIMBER | | SPRING 2014 | 2 Climbingthat Solutions fit all your needs. ClimbTech’s Cable Draws ClimbTech’s permanent draws – Permadraws – are designed to be long-life rock climbing quickdraws that don’t wear or deteriorate like traditional nylon draws. Sustainable solutions and ClimbTech’s Legacy Bolt The new Legacy Bolt’s sleeve anchor now makes it possible to be installed and removed, allowing the same bolt hole to be used for rebolting. No need for a hammer, tighten down and you’re done! See new Legacy Bolt product videos at: Innovations climbtech.com/videos in climbing hardware. AWARD WINNER ClimbTech’s Wave Bolt The Wave Bolt is a glue-in rock climbing anchor, offering tremendous strength and increased resistance to corrosion. It combines the strength of glue-ins with the convenience of pitons. When installed in overhung terrain, the wavebolt will not slide out of the hole – like other glue-in bolts do – prior to the glue hardening. Power-Bolt™ Sleeve Anchor The Power-BoltTM is a heavy duty sleeve style anchor. Expansion is created by tightening a threaded bolt which draws a tapered cone expanding a sleve against the walls of the hole. These are the standard in new routing, available at climbtechgear.com ClimbTech’s Hangers A climbing hanger that combines the long life of stainless steel and strength in compliance with CE and UIAA standards. ClimbTech hangers are smooth to mitigate wear and tear on your carabiners. More at climbtechgear.com Follow us on Facebook Check us out on Vimeo /climbtech /climbtech 3 | CALIFORNIA CLIMBER | | SPRING 2014 | 4 photos: Merrick Ales & Felimon Hernandez California Climber CALIFORNIACLIMBERMAGAZINE.COM NO.
    [Show full text]
  • Climbing Tales Gendered Body Narratives and Stories of Strength Rachel Dilley Leeds Metropolitan University [email protected]
    Conference Proceedings – Thinking Gender – the NEXT Generation UK Postgraduate Conference in Gender Studies 21-22 June 2006, University of Leeds, UK e-paper no.14 Climbing Tales Gendered Body Narratives and Stories of Strength Rachel Dilley Leeds Metropolitan University [email protected] Abstract: This paper explores some of the tensions in theories of the body which focus on bodies as culturally produced. Using preliminary findings from interviews conducted with 19 women climbers, the utility and limitations of concepts such as the ‘female apologetic’ and ‘subversive bodily acts’ are discussed. Through consideration of how femininities are embodied and lived in climbing it is concluded that whilst there is much to be gained from current theoretical approaches to the body, the materiality of real lived gendered bodies need to be more fully explored. Keywords: the body, lifestyle sports, physicality, materiality, alternative femininities The conference and the proceedings are supported by the Conference Proceedings – Thinking Gender – the NEXT Generation UK Postgraduate Conference in Gender Studies 21-22 June 2006, University of Leeds, UK Within academia, climbing is part of the new emerging field of lifestyle sports, which includes other activities such as windsurfing (Wheaton, 2000), skateboarding (Beal & Weidman, 2003) and extreme ski-ing (Kay & Laberge, 2003). The term lifestyle sport is used because, for the core participants, their lifestyle and their identity are centred on the activity. It is a particularly interesting site in which to explore experiences of the gendered body because people who take part in lifestyle sports often think they are creating alternative spaces and new values (Lewis, 2004; Wheaton, 2004), seeing themselves as adventurous and unconventional.
    [Show full text]
  • Phobophobia: Fear, Fear of Fear, and the Climber Mind
    Loyola University Chicago Loyola eCommons Psychology: Faculty Publications and Other Works Faculty Publications 5-2009 Phobophobia: Fear, Fear of Fear, and the Climber Mind Fred B. Bryant Loyola University Chicago, [email protected] Kristin Bjornsen Follow this and additional works at: https://ecommons.luc.edu/psychology_facpubs Part of the Psychology Commons Recommended Citation Bryant, Fred B. and Bjornsen, Kristin. Phobophobia: Fear, Fear of Fear, and the Climber Mind. Climbing, 275, : 56-62, 2009. Retrieved from Loyola eCommons, Psychology: Faculty Publications and Other Works, This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Faculty Publications at Loyola eCommons. It has been accepted for inclusion in Psychology: Faculty Publications and Other Works by an authorized administrator of Loyola eCommons. For more information, please contact [email protected]. This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-No Derivative Works 3.0 License. © Climbing Magazine, 2009. t 祜暈暈 Ut. 亂 - －;這 _＿＿＿＿＿－ -i, h '- n 1I ;,,,. 冒 驃 佑 ·u- ＿＿＿＿＿」－－－ ` f E E 丶 ,1 , 囑 lqn-· 一 一9 膚 Ii- F E A R, F E A R OF F E A R, AND THE CLIMBER MIND By Kristin Bjornsen and Fred Bryant, PhD WHICH BEST D ESCR IBES your typical climbing experience? On the other hand, an ascent that evokes no fear is usually bland, unmemorable. A) "Runout? Meh—they call me the Iceman." As the alpinist Kelly Cordes, 40, puts it, B) "I sometimes feel afraid, especially on hairy climbs." "Those hazards represent the wildness of C) "I cry like a colicky baby every time I rope up." the mountains, in which I find tremendous appeal and beauty.
    [Show full text]
  • L'alpinismo in Cina: Aspetti Storici E Analisi Dell'attrezzatura Alpinistica
    Corso di Laurea Magistrale in Lingue, economie e istituzioni dell’Asia e dell’Africa Mediterranea Tesi di Laurea L’alpinismo in Cina: aspetti storici e analisi dell’attrezzatura alpinistica nel mercato cinese, con repertorio terminografico italiano-cinese Relatore Ch. Prof. Franco Gatti Correlatore Ch. Prof. Magda Abbiati Laureando Stefano Pandolfo Matricola 849355 Anno Accademico 2017 / 2018 Il vero nucleo dello spirito vitale di una persona è la passione per l'avventura. La gioia di vivere deriva dall'incontro con nuove esperienze, e quindi non esiste gioia più grande dell'avere un orizzonte in costante cambiamento, del trovarsi ogni giorno sotto un sole nuovo e diverso. Christopher McCandless 前言 这篇论文的题目是《中国登山的历史发展与中国登山工具市场的分析》。 这篇论文分为三个部分：第一个是登山与登山工具的描写，第二个包含关于登山的一项意汉 专业术语的调查，第三个包括意/汉词典与汉/意词典。最后，有参考书目、参考互联网站。 第一个部分也分为四章：第一章是关于国际登山发展的历史回顾的。第二章特别注意中国的 登山活动。第三章介绍登山和攀岩领域上最常用的工具。第四章分析这些工具在中国市场的 流通。 我觉得深入地分析全球登山的发展非常重要，因为这有助于理解中国登山的特点。但是，国 际登山有很长的历史，所以我决定主要分别十一个时期：在第一个时期，我介绍登山的来源 。第二个时期，从一七八六年到一八六五年，是登山的诞生，被称为登山的黄金时期。第三 个时期，到一九零零年，介绍所谓“运动登山”的特点。然后，我分析“自由攀岩”的时期 ，也就是说从一九零零年到第一次世界大战开始。第一次世界大战的时候，登山活动放缓了 ，但是人们发明了很多更安全的、更轻便的新工具。这些发明让攀岩者避免很多的忧虑，这 就造成了登山难度等级的提高，比如说世界上第一个6°难度等级（一九二五年）。然后， 第六个是意大利登山者的压倒性优势的时期（从一九三零年到第二次世界大战开始）。第二 次世界大战以后的登山涉及到“机械攀岩”的诞生、Bonatti的优势和在喜马拉雅的活动。 第八个时期，从一九六零年到一九八零年，是关于登山大革命的；这次革命是在美国开始的 。一些加利福尼亚的攀岩者拒绝登山的严格原则了，所以他们开始发展自己的原则，这就造 成了所谓“Free climbing”。这个现象的全球推广导致登山活动的分别。这些分别是第九 个时期的主要特点：登山继续自己的发展，反而攀岩成为一场独立的体育运动，被称为“运 动攀岩”。第十个时期，从一九八零年到一九九零年，主要分析运动攀岩在全球范围之内的 爆炸与难度等级的提高。这个时期的登山活动的记录也很重要。第十一个时期是从二零零零 年到现在的：登山，攀岩都是大众的体育运动，获得越来越人的兴趣，越来越人的参加。
    [Show full text]
  • 40 Winter 2005 UK £ 2.50
    01 cover.indd 1 40 16/11/05 2:02:39 pm www.thebmc.co.uk Winter 2005 UK £2.50 The Issue The Glacial fragments in Breidarmerkurlon. Aka “the James Bond lagoon”, Iceland. Photo: Alex Messenger. Global Warning Changes at the UIAA are bad news for the mountain environment hree things happened in early November, poor agricultural society to one that is urban and pointing that maybe eight long-haul return flights which seemed closely related to me, fully industrialised. The consequences of China’s – there’s a training climb planned in Mexico T and made me appreciate just how big a rise on its own environment and ultimately our – might undo some of the great environmental disaster the resignation of Alan Blackshaw as own are already colossal and will only get worse. work she was promoting. president from the UIAA - and the dramatic lurch China currently uses 40 percent of the But then the truth is that Marianne is just of climbing’s world body in favour of competition world’s cement, a quarter of the world’s steel plugging into a world of cheap international climbing - could prove to be. and eight percent of the world’s oil. The latter travel that older climbers have enjoyed for First, Joe Simpson appeared on the front page figure can only grow, as six-lane highways snake the last decade or so. Who am I to judge? All of the Independent. Not, this time, promoting out between ever-expanding cities. America is I would say is this: at the moment, the BMC his epic tale Touching the Void, but outlining the routinely cast as the world’s environmental villain, has no policy on climate change, although it changes happening in mountain ranges around but at least in the USA you can complain about is currently under discussion.
    [Show full text]