DISCOVER PHILADELPHIA GREAT EXPERIENCES ARE HERE FOR THE MAKING

The Philadelphia International Visitors Guide, plus “Philly Originals” special feature from National Geographic Traveler magazine PHILADELPHIA ESSENTIALS

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FRA YHZ ZHR MUC YUL CDG YQB VCE GETTING HERE YOW YYZ MAD BCN FCO Philadelphia is easy to get to by plane, LIS ATH

train, bus, or automobile, so no matter FPO where you are coming from, you won’t NAS BDA have a hard time finding us. You can fly SDQ STT DOH SJU CUN PLS directly into Philadelphia International GCM Airport (PHL), conveniently located just MBJ PUJ SXM eight miles (13 km) away, or take a train, AUA UVF SJO shuttle, or rent a car from Newark Liberty International Airport (EWR) or John F. Kennedy International Airport (JFK) (both are two hours or less by car). It’s a 20-minute ride by SEPTA (Philadelphia’s public transit system)

or a 25-minute drive in a taxi from American Airlines Air Canada Philadelphia International Airport to British Airways Delta International Year-Round Flights Center City. SEPTA’s Airport Line (train) Lufthansa Qatar Airways International Seasonal Flights leaves in 30-minute intervals and a one-way fare costs approximately 8 USD. septa.org The taxi ride costs approximately 28.50 USD, plus gratuity. For information on other ground transportation options, call the Airport Ground Transportation Hotline at VISITOR CENTERS +1-215-937-6958. phl.org Get information on the city and region, plus recommendations, maps, and more from any of the Independence Visitor Center locations. Personalized concierges GETTING AROUND offer trip-planning help in 12 languages. phlvisitorcenter.com Not only are we perfectly situated on the East Coast, we are also one of the Independence Visitor Center world’s most walkable cities. In fact, Corner of 6th and Market Streets there are hotels and restaurants at City Hall Visitor Center every price point in the heart of Broad and Market Streets, Room 121, City Hall Center City, plus a top-rated public Fairmount Park Welcome Center, transit system and plenty of taxis to BOSTON take you around. (BOS) LOVE Park Thanks to founder William Penn’s 16th Street and John F. Kennedy Boulevard smart and simple grid street design, NEW YORK CITY (NYC) Sister Cities Park Café and Visitor Center the city center is easy to navigate. 18th Street and Benjamin Franklin Parkway PHILADELPHIA The Schuylkill and Delaware Rivers border Center City’s 25 blocks on Philadelphia’s convenient location and mix of WASHINGTON, D.C. the west and east. Keep in mind that (DC) top hotel brands also makes it the perfect spot streets running east and west (south to stay overnight for day-trips to Lancaster, of Market Street) are named after home to the Amish and Pennsylvania Dutch, trees while north and south streets are and Atlantic City in New Jersey. numbered. (See the map on page 19.)

Visit discoverPHL.com/international to find all of the essentials you need to plan your trip to Philadelphia, and find things to do and places to stay while you’re here.

2 PHILADELPHIA BKLPHOTO.COM/PHLCVB more of Philadelphia. and thatyou’ll come backsoontoexplore City of Brotherly Love (and Sisterly Affection) exciting sports andcultural attractions. communities, vibrant museums,and innovation asyou explore our diverse more aboutour tradition of freedom and American democracy, you’ll learnmuch it ismost famous asthebirthplace of history andhigh-tech, modernideas. Though Philadelphia isacity thatisrichinboth We hopeyou enjoy your timeinthe WELCOME TO PHILADELPHIA

Philadelphia isa favorite city toexplore. changing andever exciting, discover why food, entertainment, andparks.Always and beautifulwithworld-class culture, for themaking.It’s friendly, walkable, experiences and memoriesare here to discover Philadelphia,where great Traveler organization, andNational Geographic USA, America’sdestinationmarketing Bureau hasteamedupwithBrand The PhiladelphiaConvention &Visitors magazine toencourage travelers ESSENTIAL INFORMATION FORVISITORS

*Reprinted from “PHILLY ORIGINALS” CALENDAR OFEVENTS TAX-FREE SHOPPING CITY OFNEIGHBORHOODS DINING &NIGHTLIFE 48 HOURSITINERARY PHILADELPHIA ESSENTIALS CENTER CITYMAP National Geographic TravelerNational magazine discoverPHL.com *

19 10 9 8 7 6 4 2 3

HOURS IN PHILADELPHIA Welcome to a city where historic landmarks and cultural hot spots come together to create a vibrant tapestry of art, history, nightlife, food, and music. Here’s a suggested two-day itinerary 48 to inspire your trip to Philadelphia!

Start your day with a leisurely jog or walk along the Benjamin Franklin Parkway, finishing at the top of the Philadelphia Museum of Art steps—just like Rocky. The museum itself holds a world-renowned art collection, which you can easily spend your whole morning perusing. philamuseum.org

Philadelphia has the country’s largest public arts program, which has produced more than 3,600 works of art since its inception. Don’t miss out on taking a walking, bus, or self-guided tour of the City of Murals with the City of Philadelphia’s Mural Arts Program. muralarts.org

To get better acquainted with the city’s sites, take a double-decker bus tour that lets you hop on and off to explore more. Or sign up for a walking or Segway tour for a different perspective. discoverPHL.com/tours

Next, head to Independence National Historical Park, the country’s most historic square mile and home to Independence Hall, a UNESCO World Heritage site, the Liberty Bell, and much more. The best thing to do is start at the Independence Visitor Center to pick up information on all of the attractions in the area. nps.gov/inde

For some retail therapy, head to Rittenhouse Row, a stretch of Walnut Street just off Rittenhouse Square that is the perfect place For lunch, indulge in artisanal cheeses, specialty to enjoy Philadelphia’s tax-free shopping foods, and farm-fresh produce at the historic on clothing and shoes. Or if you’re more in (and always bustling) Reading Terminal Market, the mood to relax, pull up a seat at one of where more than a hundred merchants sell the area’s sidewalk cafés for a leisurely meal. their goods. readingterminalmarket.org CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: PAUL LOFTLAND (PHILADELPHIA MUSEUM OF ART), CAROL FEELEY (LIBERTY BELL), KAIT PRIVITERA/PHLCVB PRIVITERA/PHLCVB KAIT BELL), (LIBERTY FEELEY CAROL ART), OF MUSEUM (PHILADELPHIA LOFTLAND PAUL LEFT: TOP FROM CLOCKWISE rittenhouserow.org TERMINAL MARKET) (READING

4 PHILADELPHIA CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY BARNES FOUNDATION, COURTESY EASTERN STATE PENITENTIARY, PAUL LOFTLAND/PHLCVB (ACADEMY OF NATURAL SCIENCES), ED SAVARIA JR./PHLCVB (CHINATOWN), COURTESY PLEASE TOUCH MUSEUM (EXHIBIT), ED SAVARIA JR./PHLCVB (RODIN MUSEUM), ANTHONY SINAGOGA (SUGARHOUSE CASINO) at the Academy of Music. avenueofthearts.org Performing Arts,or attendanopera or ballet Orchestra at The KimmelCenter for the Street near City Hall. See the Philadelphia the Avenue of the Artsisastretch of Broad Known as the theater districtof Philadelphia, Broad andSpruce Streets Avenue of theArts in the New World. ansp.org science research institutionandmuseum of Natural Sciences, the oldestnatural behind-the-scenesAcademy tourat the animals from around the world, or take a importance of watersheds, explore diorama butterflies, touchalive animal,learn the Dig for dinosaur fossils, stroll amonglive 1900 Benjamin Franklin Parkway of Drexel University Academy of Natural Sciences top spots not tobemissed. Here isalistof someof the back before you even leave. need toplanyour next trip do inPhiladelphiathatyou’ll There isenoughtoseeand Dr. AlbertBarnes. barnesfoundation.org by created placements detailed unique, the as antique furniture andAfrican sculptures in Cézanne, Degas, Picasso,andRenoir, aswell more than 600paintings by masterssuchas Post-impressionist paintings in the world. View private collection of early French modernand Barnes Foundation, whichhouses the largest Art lovers mustvisit the world-famous MUST-SEE ATTRACTIONS

constitutioncenter.org films, photographs, andartifacts. more than ahundred interactive exhibits, Revolutionarypresent, times tothe through tells the story of the Constitution, from The National Constitution Center dramatically 525 Arch Street National Constitution Center italianmarketphilly.org fishmongers, cheesepurveyors, andbutchers. United States, home to avariety of indoor and largest working outdoor market in the The 9thStreet Italian Market is the oldest 919 South9thStreet Italian Market “Your Brain” exhibit.fi.edu including the iconic Giant Heart and the with three floors of hands-on exhibits, Franklin Institute has fun down to ascience, Located in the heartof Philadelphia, The 222 North 20thStreet The Franklin Institute chinatown-pcdc.or grocery stores, androws of shops. boasts bustlingstreets linedwithrestaurants, built inAmerica,Philadelphia’sChinatown Home to the firstauthentic Chinesegate 10th andArch Streets Chinatown statue—Robert Indiana’s LOVE. and take your picture withanother famous Alexander Milne Calder. Or, cross the street and freestanding sculptures, allcreated by Hall, andadmire the more than 250relief 1909. Relax inDilworth Park, justnext to City tallest occupied buildingin the world until Philadelphia’s Cityof Hall, whichwas the Walk over to see the stunningarchitecture g

out through a tunnel in 1945.easternstate.org wasn’t ascomfortable—he notoriously busted decorated, butbankrobber WillieSutton’s design. Gangster AlCapone’scell was lavishly worldwide copied itsrevolutionary radial after itopenedin1829, more than 300prisons Eastern State Penitentiary. In the century of the crumblingbutendlessly fascinating Before leaving town, go“inside the walls” options inPhiladelphia.sugarhousecasino.com Casino oneof the hottest entertainment the Delaware River make the SugarHouse entertainment, andanoutdoor patio along 24-hour gamingaction,great dining, 1001 North Delaware Avenue SugarHouse Casino Hell.” rodinmuseum.org “The Burghers of Calais,” and“The Gatesof artist’s greatest works including“The Thinker,” of Paris, this museumshowcases castsof the Home to the largest Rodin collection outside 2154 Benjamin Franklin Parkway Rodin Museum carousel! pleasetouchmuseum.org theater performances, andacentury-old a hostof interactive exhibits,daily activities, for families with young children and features Park, the Please Touch Museum isdesigned Located inhistoricMemorial Hall inFairmount 4231 Avenue of the Republic Please TouchMuseum overheadsystems. trail and playful primatesmake their way through with animalsinanewway asfierce felines oldest, butitcertainly keeps current. Interact The PhiladelphiaZoo may beAmerica’s 3400 West Girard Avenue Philadelphia Zoo discoverPHL.com philadelphiazoo.org

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6 cherry andlemon,aswell asmore exotic and comes intraditional flavors suchas and establishments throughout thecity, fresh fruit. It’s available from street vendors is asmooth mixture of ice, fruit juice, and ice). This cool andrefreshing frozen treat better thanwater ice (also known asItalian add fried or raw onions. or provolone cheese,plustheoption to offer achoice of CheezWhiz,American, chopped or sliced beef. Most establishments of meltedcheeseandtender pieces of cheesesteak, indulge inthecity’sofficial sandwich:the like theselocal favorites. authentic, nothing says Philadelphiaquite But, ifyou’re looking for somethingtruly from almostevery country imaginable. metropolitan city, you can find foods With abroad range of cultures inthis cialty ethniccuisine. peak hours,serving casualeatstospe Pennsylvania andDrexel University during and thecampusesof theUniversity of many food trucksthatheadtoLOVE Park for somethingdifferent, visit one of the right here inPhiladelphia.If you’re looking of specialty beers,even somebrewed Many restaurants offer awideselection options thatmake for unforgettable meals. river andskylineviews. cafés inhistoricbuildingstovenues with grandiose chef-owned eateriestointimate cafés, ranging from sophisticatedand bistros, andmore than250outdoor filled withupscale restaurants, quaint modern culinary creations. The city is ethnic cuisines, famed regional fare, and is endlessly diverse, offering authentic Philadelphia’s renowned diningscene DINING &NIGHTLIFE EAT LIKE A LOCAL

Nothing says summer inPhiladelphia For sometrue Philadelphiaflavor, Menus offer contemporary andclassic PHILADELPHIA a mouthwatering combination amouthwatering combination

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are deliciouswithspicy mustard. stores, or directly from the factory, and are available from street vendors, local baked fresh every day, thesesalty satisfiers food for Philadelphians.Hand-twisted and flavors like mangoandpassion fruit. Soft pretzels are theultimatecomfort

neighborhood at Search forrestaurants by cuisineor into thelatehours. throughout thecity isalive andvibrant No matter whatyou choose,nightlife nearby casinosinPhiladelphia’s suburbs. SugarHouse Casinoor oneof theother If you’d rather try your luck,checkout the night away takinginacomedy show. bowling alleys or dance clubs.Or laugh evening out,visit oneof thecity’s culture venues. to someof Philadelphia’stop arts and along theAvenue of theArts,home historic Academylocated of Music, both the at or seethePennsylvania Ballet Kimmel Center for thePerforming Arts Philadelphia Orchestraat The perform disappoint. Hear theworld-renowned more than20,000, Philadelphiawon’t shows attheWells Fargo Center for indie bandstosold-outblockbuster local From smallvenues thatshowcase something foreveryone. a live show, Philadelphiahas dance into thenight or catch Whether you’re lookingto PHILADELPHIA AFTER DARK For thoselooking for amore active discoverPHL.com/dining.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: BKLPHOTO.COM (RITTENHOUSE SQUARE), PHLCVB (READING TERMINAL MARKET), BKLPHOTO.COM (DANCING), ANTHONY SINAGOGA (DINING) PHOTOCLOCKWISE CREDIT FROM TOP: PAUL LOFTLAND (SKYLINE), ANTHONY SINAGOGA (CHINATOWN), BKLPHOTO.COM (RITTENHOUSE SQUARE) some alfresco people-watching. enjoy alatte,take aleisurely stroll, or do a Parisian park.It’s theperfect place to plaza and fountains designed to resemble park calledRittenhouse Square, witha nightlife hot spots. At its heartisagenteel outdoor cafés, elegant restaurants, and famous retailers, high-endboutiques, This poshneighborhoodisfilledwith Rittenhouse Square continuously inhabitedresidential street. Front and2ndStreets, America’soldest be sure tovisit Elfreth’s Alley, between open lateandhostspecialevents. Also exploring thedozens of galleriesthatstay month, you canjointheart-loving crowds to beintown onthefirst Friday of any festivals atPenn’s Landing.If you happen movies, concerts, andmulticultural During summer months, enjoy free or ghosttour for auniqueexperience. bistros. Consider amoonlitcarriageride art galleries,clothing boutiques,and century andthenexplore contemporary area allows you tostepbackinto the18th The perfect blendof oldandnew, this Historic District &Waterfront are waiting tobeexplored. Philadelphia’s diverse districts NEIGHBORHOODS CITY OF

pho, andother Asiandelicacies. restaurants serving dumplings,noodles, States, offering eclecticshopping and is thethird largest Chinatown intheUnited Reading Terminal Market. Alsointhisdistrict outdoor spot toenjoy lunch from nearby the FineArtsandLenfest Plaza,aperfect Center isthePennsylvania Academy of Across from thePennsylvania Convention Convention Center District bookstores, and a lively LGBTcommunity. shops, on clothing andshoes,pluscafés, where you canenjoy tax-free shopping Row and Jewelers’ Row, aswell asMacy’s, This neighborhoodishometoAntique of coveted residences anduniqueretailers. space surrounded by harmoniousblocks Here you willfinda relaxing, green, open Washington Square the riverside trails inFairmountthe Park, one Barnes Foundation. Walk, run,or bike Museum, The Franklin Institute, and Sciences of Drexel University, Rodin Museum of Art,Academy of Natural Join culture seekers atthePhiladelphia acclaimed museumsandpublicart. after Paris’s Champs-Élysées, boasts The Benjamin Franklin Parkway, modeled Parkway Museum District of theworld’s largest urbanparksystems.

and theInstitute of Contemporary Art. and Anthropology, thePhiladelphiaZoo, to thePenn Museum of Archaeology and theaters. The neighborhoodishome a range of restaurants, galleries,museums, offer more than900outdoor seats. brewery, taverns, andethnicrestaurants Line, thengrab aseatalfresco—the area’s Station ontheManayunk/Norristown or 30thStreet stations) totheManayunk Center City station(Jefferson, Suburban, Take SEPTA’s Regional Rail Line from any as atrendy shoppingandnightlife spot. riverside milltown hasbeenreinvented “where we gotodrink,” thishistoric Derived from theLenape Indian phrase Manayunk South Philadelphia’shottest areas. is popular inPassyunk Square, oneof cheesesteak sandwich,andpatiodining Street istheplace for aquintessential corner of Passyunk Avenue and9th international cultures stillflourish. The Mexican populations, theneighborhood’s thanks toitslarge Italian, Irish, Asian,and spot for centuries of immigrants. Today, eateries tellitsstory asthelanding Charming row homesand family-owned South Philadelphia community withayoung, hipenergy and countryside isnow adiverse urban Drexel University, Philadelphia’soriginal the University of Pennsylvania and (there are 101intheregion), including Home tosixcolleges anduniversities, University City discoverPHL.com

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TAX-FREE SHOPPING With more than 2,000 retailers in Center City alone, Philadelphia is a shopper’s paradise. Whether you are looking for upscale goods, brand-name bargains, or that perfect vintage item, you will not be disappointed. And, with no tax on clothing and shoes, bargain hunters can save a bundle. Explore the city’s specialty retail districts, For other famous brand-name stores, like Jewelers’ Row, the nation’s oldest take a short drive outside Philadelphia diamond district, or Antiques Row, to pick to the King of Prussia Mall, featuring up a piece of Americana. Or, head more than 400 stores, the Philadelphia to Rittenhouse Row, home to Premium Outlets, or Philadelphia Mills, exclusive boutiques and big where you can find deep discounts on top TAX-FREE brand-name stores along brands. SHOPPING Walnut Street. Rittenhouse Square is ON CLOTHING AND SHOES the perfect place to rest your feet after a long day of shopping. Anthropologie and Urban Outfitters, founded in Philadelphia, are nearby. Century 21 and Nordstrom Rack are also popular spots for shoppers looking for deals. International visitors won’t want to miss Macy’s Center City, in the lavish Wanamaker Building, which was home to Philadelphia’s first modern department store. Show your passport at the Macy’s visitor center to receive discounts. Visit discoverPHL.com/shopping for more places to shop.

OUTDOOR LIFE SPORTING EVENTS OUTDOOR RECREATION Philadelphia boasts a full calendar of Visitors looking for physical activity can & SPORTS special sporting events, from regattas explore the city’s network of paths, parks, Philadelphia is one of the and Dragon Boat races along the Schuylkill trails, and public playing fields. Fairmount River to running races through the streets Park offers 215 miles (346 km) of trails, greatest American sports of the city, including an annual marathon. including the paved 11.5 miles (18.5 km) cities, offering four seasons Philadelphia is also home to the highest of the Schuylkill River Trail. Rent bicycles of athletic excitement. rated international cycling race in the or in-line skates along Boathouse Row, or United States. Check out the calendar take a guided bicycle or Segway tour of PROFESSIONAL SPORTS by visiting PHLsports.com. the park’s highlights. fairmountpark.org American Football: Root for the Philadelphia Eagles at the massive, 67,594-seat Lincoln Financial Field. (September to January) Baseball: Enjoy America’s national pastime by taking in a Philadelphia Phillies baseball game at Citizens Bank Park. (April to September) Soccer: Cheer on the Philadelphia Union at PPL Park stadium in Chester, just a 30-minute drive or train ride from Center City. (March to October) Basketball: See the Philadelphia 76ers, known as the “Sixers,” at the Wells Fargo Center. (October to April) Ice Hockey: Watch the National Hockey League’s Philadelphia Flyers at the Wells

Fargo Center. (October to April) FIELD) FINANCIAL (LINCOLN HUGHES ERIC MACY’S), AND (SHOPPERS MCWILLIAMS JIM LEFT: TOP FROM CLOCKWISE

8 PHILADELPHIA CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: ERIC SELLE (ORCHESTRA), ED SAVARIA (MUMMERS PARADE), COURTESY PHILADELPHIA FLOWER SHOW (FLOWER ARRANGEMENT), MATT STANLEY (FIREWORKS) workshops. theflowershow.com culinary demonstrations, andgardening and visitors canenjoy live entertainment, it celebrates anewandunique theme, most prestigious flower shows. Each year make thisoneof theworld’s largest and floral settings,andinspirational displays Ten acres of lushindoor gardens, lavish Early March Philadelphia International Flower Show manufacturers. vehicles 700 from avarietythan more of Philadelphia Auto Show displays the one of thetopshows inthecountry, steel. Recognized by theindustry as square feet of wood grain, leather, and Get your motor revving with 650,000 Early February Philadelphia Auto Show of theyear. mummers.com most memorable andraucous events bands andcomic skitsinoneof the costumes andparaded their string Mummers clubmembershave donned American Revolution. Since 1900, Philadelphia datebacktobefore the celebrations onNew Year’s Day in Reports of festive neighborhood January 1 New Year’s Day Mummers Parade CALENDAR OFEVENTS MARCH FEBRUARY JANUARY EVERYONE. SOMETHING FOR PHILADELPHIA HAS TIME OF YEAR, MATTERNO THE phillyautoshow.com

and vacant storefronts. fringearts.com from traditional theaterstocorner bars shows invenues andacross thecity, creative andcultural experiences at Audiences are sure toenjoy nonstop together ina fun, socialatmosphere. national, andinternational artistscome the world’s mostcutting-edge local, Philadelphia’s neighborhoodsas FringeArts Festival takes over For 18days every September, the FringeArts Festival welcomeamerica.com famous PhiladelphiaMuseum of Art. fireworks show atthestepsof the Philadelphia andthenaconcert and 4 withahugeparade through historic off inlate June andculminateson July Wawa Welcome America! festival kicks event intheUnited States. The free it allbeganwiththelargest Fourth of July Celebrate the founding of America where Week of July 4 Wawa Welcome America! the globe.delawareriverwaterfront.com and their cultural traditions from around diverse heritageof thecity’sresidents multicultural series,highlighting the Landing ontheDelaware River for its Throughout thesummer, visit Penn’s Penn’s LandingMulticultural Series APRIL TOSEPTEMBER SEPTEMBER

visit For acompletelistofspecialevents, qfest.com |equalityforum.com Sunday OUT!,andmore. phillypride.org | exhibit, the International Equality Dinner, includes paneldiscussions,parties,anart every spring. The weeklong event and festival, takes place inPhiladelphia bisexual, andtransgender symposium Forum, thenation’slargest gay, lesbian, films andfilmmakers, every July. Equality festival dedicatedtogay andlesbian week-long QFEST, aninternational film and Festival every June andthetwo- Don’t missthePhilly Pride LGBT Parade LGBT Events children’s music.philorch.org from celebrated masterworks to versatile r for thePerforming Arts. The orchestra’s summer concerts at The MannCenter Performing Arts,aswell asoutdoor state-of-the-art KimmelCenter for the a hundred concerts ayear atthe the orchestra performs more than with its famous “PhiladelphiaSound,” symphonies. Delighting audiences nation’s oldestandmostrevered Founded in1900, thisisoneof the Philadelphia Orchestra Season THROUGHOUT THE YEAR THROUGHOUT THE OCTOBER TOMAY discoverPHL.com/events. epertoire includeseverything discoverPHL.com

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Revitalizing a city: Meet a new generation of butchers, bakers, and candlestick makers

BY LAUREN McCUTCHEON • PHOTOGRAPHS BY CATHERINE KARNOW

HILADELPHIA has always been a city of makers. What began in colonial days as a grid of workshops between the Schuylkill and P Delaware Rivers in southeast Pennsylvania would grow to include factories, row houses, skyscrapers, and, eventually, suburban sprawl. Then came the second half of the 20th century—and urban flight from many American cities. Manufacturing left Philadelphia. Residents followed. Once beloved buildings stood vacant. Weeds grew in historic Washington Square. Decades passed. Then, in the late 1970s, creative folks and urban planners began to see opportunities in the many abandoned spaces. Artisans, chefs, designers, tinkerers, brewers, and builders eager to ply their trades more affordably moved in sparking Philly’s revival. Recently, as other cities have lost their artisan class, these makers have stuck around—multiplied, even— helping make Philadelphia the vibrant, entrepreneurial place it is today.

Locals know to arrive early at Artisan Boulanger Patissier (top left) for its golden croissants and other pastries. Sartorialist Walé Oyéjidé (top right) often works from home with his two-year-old daughter by his side. Ellen Yin (lower left) heads longtime favorite Fork, in Old City. Waffle cones (lower right) wait for scoops at the Franklin Fountain.

10 Reprinted from National Geographic Traveler magazine PHILADELPHIA MAKERS 12_14 [Print].indd 3 artisanal beersatthe Philadelphia Brewing Company intheCity Barton chatswith of Brotherly Love for asamplingof locals gathered Owner Nancy (opposite). 11 10/15/14 3:59PM

PHOTO CREDIT trade was building straw-bale houses. This was followed Michelle Lipson by apprenticeships with revered Pennsylvania furniture Worker in Wood makers Bob Ingram and Jack Larimore. These days, Lipson is as apt to use her hand tools as her new, computer-driven ffluent Philadelphians in the 18th century frequently cutting machine, and she teaches the trade to hobbyists. A posed for portraits beside their newly made furnishings. “People want to be in touch with how things are made,” she Stately pieces—Queen Anne desks, Chippendale chairs made says. “They want to be handy.” with cherry and walnut wood—hailed from small workshops ■ MICHELLE LIPSON WOODWORKING, 3211 CEDAR ST. in Old City and Society Hill. Today, those neighborhoods command rents that are too high for most artisanal pursuits. So woodworkers have carved studios from former industrial Nancy & Bill Barton sites on the city’s edges. Some work out of warehouses big Beer Pioneers on space, small on overhead. Michelle Lipson’s woodshop was once a coffin factory. Like the William Saverys, Thomas eer is proof God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Afflecks, and other Philadelphia cabinetmakers of yore, BPhiladelphia statesman and inventor Benjamin Franklin these modern-day woodworkers embrace the aesthetic of never actually said this, but it’s no wonder Philadelphians their time. For Lipson, that means slender tables, desks, and continue to think he did. A century ago, Philly was the beer- media centers that riff on 1950s styles and reflect the refined brewing-est city in the Western Hemisphere. Today, Nancy tastes of her word-of-mouth clientele. “Making things is like and Bill Barton are part of a new generation of beer-makers problem solving to me,” she says. Her first foray into the who are making their sudsy mark on the city once again.

Stephen Bilenky (above) builds custom bikes in Olney. Owned by Nancy and Bill Barton and Jim McBride, Philadelphia Brewing Company (right) is housed in a restored 19th-century brewery. Michelle Lipson (far right) poses with a walnut chair she made.

12 Reprinted from National Geographic Traveler magazine Their Philadelphia Brewing Company joins Yards, Victory, “tandems were made mostly in Europe,” he says. Today, the Flying Fish, Dock Street, Saint Benjamin, and a dozen operation employs six workers and is esteemed as a veteran other brewers whose indie logos appear on taps citywide. in a field of hundreds. Bilenky’s specialty is one-of-a-kind Every Saturday afternoon, Philadelphia Brewing Company frames—recumbent, cyclo-cross, retrofit, hand-pedal, or hosts tours of its restored 19th-century factory, with free longtail (extended in back to carry cargo)—for nonstandard samplings (try the “Harvest from the Hood” made with bodies and lifestyles. He has built bikes for father-son tri- neighborhood-grown hops). Franklin, who really did say, athletes Dick and Rick Hoyt, a Seattle Symphony member “A penny saved is a penny earned,” would have whole- and her violin, and two Norwegian mail carriers. To such heartedly approved. cyclists, Bilenky is a legend. He remains, however, nearly ■ PHILADELPHIA BREWING COMPANY, 2440 FRANKFORD AVE. anonymous in his hometown, where city bike lanes still struggle for respect and a bike-share program has yet to launch (plans are for sometime in 2015). This may be due Stephen Bilenky in part to Bilenky’s price point: His cycles start at around Bicycle Built for You $3,000 and can exceed $15,000. “Our methods,” he explains, “don’t lend themselves to mass production.” Then again, ost of the machines at Stephen Bilenky’s out-of- he relishes any chance to refurbish a classic Schwinn or a M the-way Olney shop are, he says, “World War I vintage Miyata. His simple philosophy: “Bikes need to be technology.” This native of Northeast Philly began building decent, serviceable machines. Bikes should last 50 years.” bikes in 1983, back when customer requests came via snail ■ BILENKY CYCLE WORKS, 5319 NORTH SECOND ST. mail, a one-man brazer was an American anomaly, and

13 Brothers Ryan and Eric Berley churn out pumpkin buttercream, a filling for chocolates, in the upstairs loft of Shane Confectionery.

14 Reprinted from National Geographic Traveler magazine Eric & Ryan Berley new “drinking chocolate” café. One more concession to modern habits: an online retail site where fans can get the candy shop’s Historically Sweet brandied cherries and nonpareils delivered to their door.w ■ SHANE CONFECTIONERY, 110 MARKET ST. he chocolate drops in one of the antique glass jars at T theold-timey Shane Confectionery look like unwrapped Hershey’s kisses. They aren't. They're Wilbur buds, the Anna Bario & Page Neal once famed product of a sweets factory a few blocks up Global Smiths the street in Old City—a relic of the days when candymak- ing was a major Philadelphia industry, before mass snack ewelers’ Row, basically a few blocks that form a capital I production put an end to that. Almost. Shane, the country’s J along Sansom Street between Seventh and Eighth Streets, oldest continuously run sweets store, is one of a few confec- has dibs as the first diamond district in the U.S. But a few tioners remaining (others include Lore’s, on Seventh Street, blocks to the south, bijoutières Anna Bario and Page Neal are and Blasius, in Kensington). Thanks go to brothers Ryan forging a shining first of their own. In 2007, the pair adopted and Eric Berley, who bought the business in 2010; the pair an eco-friendly and ethical platform: The precious metals were well known for having created the Victorian-inspired and stones in their jewelry are either responsibly mined or Franklin Fountain, a classic ice cream shop, next door. recycled. “We wanted to have a positive impact as far as “The place needed freshening up,” says Eric. They took manufacturing,” says Bario. In 2014, they began acquiring 18 months to renovate the space, with its tin ceilings and their gold sheets through the Alliance for Responsible Mining, yellow pine floors. Their aim wasn’t to modernize but to which works with small South American co-ops. “We know revive “the candy store that once was,” says Eric. They still the miners’ work conditions, we know the health conditions, use the floors above the confectionery to make classic Philly we know the environmental conditions,” Bario notes. A por- buttercreams in a two-ton, 1920 machine built for that tion of the miners’ fee is reinvested in community building. purpose, and employ more than a thousand antique molds Bario and Neal give the same careful consideration to stones, for Easter chocolates. Nods to contemporary tastes include especially diamonds. “Engagement rings, wedding bands— scented marshmallows, honey lavender caramels, and the that’s where some people first care about sourcing,” says Bario. “After all, the rings will be worn every day for a lifetime.” ■ BARIO NEAL, 700 SOUTH SIXTH ST.

Ellen Yin Restaurateur Extraordinaire

hen Ellen Yin was studying for her M.B.A. in health- W care management at the University of Pennsylvania's Wharton School, the buzzword of the day was “continuous improvement.” After 17 years ago in hospital management, Yin left for restaurant ownership—and brought the concept with her. Fork, her first venture, consistently ranks as one of Philadelphia’s (and the country’s) foremost dining spots. Yin opened the American bistro when Old City was just getting on the map for its gallery scene. She engaged the talents of area artists, including a server who is still employed there, to create an approachable, elegant atmosphere: velvet drapes, abstract art, hand-painted lampshades, and, instead of a sign, a doorway mosaic. Her kitchen, now helmed by chef Eli Kulp, exploited local talent, too, sourcing ingredients from area farmers, butchers, and cheese makers. “We were farm-to-table before the term was coined,” said Yin. Last year, the entre- preneur expanded operations next door, offering breakfast through dinner in the casual, bread-centric High Street on Market. A few months later, she and Kulp took over opera- tions at Rittenhouse Square’s ambitiously modern a.kitchen and a.bar, which have ingredients grown to spec and set their tables with Philadelphia-made pottery and woodwork. “It’s either make it better, or quit,” says Yin. ■ FORK RESTAURANT, 306 MARKET ST.; HIGH STREET ON MARKET, 308 MARKET ST.; A.KITCHEN + A.BAR, 135 S. 18TH ST.

Anna Bario and Paige Neal display their ethically mined gems.

15 Christopher Kearse Culinary Artist

he short list of iconic Philly foods isn’t exactly filled T with haute cuisine. Hoagies, soft pretzels, scrapple, Tastykakes, and, yes, cheesesteaks are instead results of a working-class demand for fast, inexpensive fare. That demand endures. Today, however, there’s a converse call for more refined menus, a call answered both in chef-driven empires—Iron Chef Jose Garces oversees about a dozen local restaurants—and singularly focused upstarts. Passyunk Avenue’s two-year-old, 30-seat Will fits the latter category. Owned by Christopher Kearse, the French BYOB bistro has become known for its impeccably plated, locally sourced seasonal French fare (don’t miss any version of duck, or soups poured at the table). But it’s also known for the chef himself. Kearse was 16 when he became the victim of a drunk driving accident, recovery from which has taken years. But that didn’t stop him from graduating first in his class from the Restaurant School at Philly’s Walnut Hill College and cooking at the French Laundry and Chicago’s Tru. At Will, Kearse is not just cooking his heart out. He’s hosting that way too. If you really need a two-top on a busy Saturday night, he says, “we can always fit you in.” ■ WILL, 1911 EAST PASSYUNK AVE.

Walé Oyéjidé & Samuel Hubler Worldly Sartorialists

orry, kids. Historians now are questioning whether Revo- S lutionary War-era seamstress Betsy Ross of Philadelphia was the first to stitch the Stars and Stripes. However, no one questions who’s in charge at the Afrocentric menswear line Ikiré Jones. Walé Oyéjidé and Samuel Hubler show their wax cottons quite literally on their sleeves, though their first collection of made-to-order suiting hid their signature West African prints inside tweedy exteriors. The business partners—Oyéjidé is an Afrobeat musician and former civil defense litigator; Hubler is a family-taught tailor and design- er—use an Old World five-step soft-sewing process. “The fabric has international DNA,” says Oyéjidé, who was born in Nigeria and grew up in Philly. “It comes from the Nether- lands but is made for the West African market, where it has the same symbolism as a Scottish clan’s tartans.” Oyéjidé left a large law practice to launch the menswear label, “in a deliberate attempt to realign my life with my values.” Among those values: Telling a story and working at home, daughter Naima by his side. “I try to introduce other parts of the world in a way that is interesting,” he says. ■ IKIRÉ JONES, IKIREJONES.COM.

Ben Volta Mural Mentor

isiting all 3,600 public paintings created by the not-for- V profit Mural Arts Program would be a challenge. But the citywide collection—the largest of its kind in the country,

16 Reprinted from National Geographic Traveler magazine founded 30 years ago as an anti-graffiti initiative—more than merits a departure from the beaten path. A walk through Center City reveals dozens of such works, most created by former graffiti artists, at-risk young adults, incarcerated workers, and off-site inmates at Graterford prison who have been trained in painting, building, and landscaping by Mural Arts staff and volunteers. The murals that may best demonstrate the power of community art, however, reside in Philadelphia’s farther reaches. Take Mantua. Just north of University City, it is a neighborhood in one of five “Promise Zones” designated for federal aid by the Obama administration—and home to “Micro to Macro,” a colorful 12,000-square-foot study of the universe that graces the kindergarten-through-eighth-grade Morton McMichael School. Artist Ben Volta collaborated with seventh graders and their math and science teachers to imagine and make the work, which, from planning to unveiling, took 13 months. Students did much of the painting. The result: a vision that, says Volta, “goes into galaxies—and goes into atoms.” It also kind of gets under your skin. Right into your heart. ■ MURAL ARTS TOURS DEPART FROM VARIOUS CENTER CITY LOCATIONS.

Dan & Trish Fiorella The Sausage Makers

he scene that Luigi Fiorella oversees in his sausage shop, TFiorella Brothers Sausage Company, has not changed since he founded the place in 1892. Fiorella—okay, a portrait of him—hangs above the original weight scales. It faces the Samuel Hubler and Walé Oyéjidé (above) work on their boldly patterned jackets. Chef Christopher Kearse pours coconut same brass cash register, the same dumbwaiter—hemp rope vinaigrette (left) over a salad of fruit and flowers at Will. Ben still cranking—and the same marble and mosaic countertops Volta and students show off a mural they painted (below). that Fiorella used when he presided over the place. At age 19, Fiorella left his home in Foggia, southern Italy, joining the first wave of Italians to settle at Center City’s southernmost edge. Fiorella’s people weren’t the first to live in the working- class neighborhood; the Swedes claim that distinction. But Italians were prolific builders, constructing row houses, churches, and the vibrant open-air Ninth Street market (the oldest of its kind in the United States). All still thrive. Dan Fiorella, Luigi’s 65-year-old great-grandson, has worked in the family business for 44 years, first alongside his dad, later with his brother, and now with his wife, Trish. Under the youngest Fiorella’s tenure, the shop has made updates—new refrigeration, a spotless kitchen. But when it comes to product, Dan Fiorella adheres to Luigi’s original mission. “All we make is Italian sausage, in seven varieties. We make a hot sausage and a mild sausage, with fennel seed and without. We make a cheese sausage and a breakfast sausage. And we make a liver sausage, using the recipe of my great-grandmother.” Some things, it seems, cannot be improved upon. ■ FIORELLA’S SAUSAGE, 817 CHRISTIAN ST.

Amanda Eap & Andre Chin Early Risers

eard of the city that never sleeps? It’s not Philly. Bars and Hnightclubs close promptly at 2 a.m. Weekend mornings, locals tend to sleep in—except if they are fans of Artisan

17 Boulanger Patissier. On an unassuming corner of South A little more than a decade ago, fashion retail worth talking Philly, neighbors have taken to rising early for the you’d- about returned to Philly. Some observers attributed the retail swear-you-were-in-France baguettes and pure butter revival to an improving economy. Others credited the growth pastries made by Andre Chin and Amanda Eap. Chin, a of Urban Outfitters, headquartered in South Philly, or the Paris-trained pâtissier, does the baking. Eap works the coun- intensified fashion-design programs of local universities. ter, fills pastries, makes specialty cakes, and crafts breakfast Then again, it could have been thanks to pioneering boutique croissants, followed, later in the day, by Vietnamese hoagies owners such as Lele Tran, a dressmaker who opened an known as banh mi. The two met in West Philly, at Eap’s dad’s eponymous (and since closed) shop in Old City in 1997, right doughnut shop, years after they’d separately escaped their when the historic neighborhood was ready to embrace local native Cambodia—Chin, alone, to France, Eap to Pennsylva- style. Before long, more than a handful of vendors of vintage, nia with her family. Marrying, they moved to South Philly as independent, and international fashions appeared in Tran’s young parents, taking a chance on a vacant storefront. For wake. Today, Tran is a professor at Philadelphia’s Moore Col- the first few years, “we struggled,” Chin admits. But they lege of Art & Design. Concurrently, she has taken the hung on, watching as their Italian neighborhood filled with making and selling of designer goods a step further: Three newcomers, who dubbed their new digs “East Passyunk.” years ago she formed an all-local co-op, US*U.S. The space, When those newcomers started having families of their own, which sits directly across from the Arch Street Meeting business took off. Chin calls the line out the door “gratify- House, is small, but the made-in-America pieces, from ing.” Locals just call it necessary. frocks adorned with sequins to wool scarves that zip into ■ ARTISAN BOULANGER PATISSIER, 1218 MIFFLIN ST. endless shapes, are thoroughly on point. ■ US*U.S., 323 ARCH ST.

Lele Tran Cooperative Clothiers LAUREN McCUTCHEON is a features reporter covering culture, food, and family at thePhiladelphia Daily News. sed to be, when discriminating Philadelphians went Contributing photographer CATHERINE KARNOW fell in U clothes shopping, they headed to New York. No longer. love with Philly while shooting this story.

Lele Tran (center) and a group of other designers from the co-op US*U.S. gather in their shared storefront in Old City.

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