From Mass Production to Mass Customization
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Volume 1, Issue 2, Winter 2001 FROM MASS PRODUCTION TO MASS CUSTOMIZATION Michael T. Fralix Textile/Clothing Technology Corporation [TC]2 Cary, NC ABSTRACT With the advent of the industrial revolution and interchangeable parts, manufacturing moved from the craft era to the mass production era. Today there is a new era emerging and it is called Mass Customization. Mass Customization takes the best of the craft era, when customers had products built to their specifications but only the elite could afford them, with the best of the mass production era, when everybody could get the same product because it was affordable. This presentation will highlight the development of Mass Customization and how the sewn products industry is positioned to capitalize on it. As progressive companies trade their traditional production concepts and practices for powerful mass customization techniques, this presentation will provide insight into the integration of information technology, mechanization, and team- based flexible manufacturing. Emerging technologies for mass customization such as three- dimensional non-contact body measurement and digital printing will also be discussed. KEYWORDS: Mass Customization, Body Scanning, Digital Printing Introduction: Another very interesting signal that merits Sometimes we get signals that it is time to some attention is that of the growth in change long before we respond to those worldwide population. If world population signals. In fact, we have been getting were separated into developed countries signals in the United States that it is time to versus developing or undeveloped countries, do something different, and we have been it would show that there is a significantly betting those signals for a long time. For greater growth rate in developing countries. example, a study of U.S. apparel In fact, the projections for the next ten years employment over the last twenty years indicate that world population is expected to would indicate that there has been a steady grow from 6.3 billion to 7.3 billion people. decline from a peak of about 1.4 million Ninety percent of this growth is expected in workers to less than 800,000. (Figure 1) developing countries (Figure 3). Likewise the textile and apparel trade deficit over the past ten years has grown tremendously. In fact, it has more than doubled in the past ten years (Figure 2). 1 JTATM Volume 1, Issue 2, Winter 2001 U.S. Apparel Employment place?” It is in developing countries! (Thousands) “Where do you think the competition for Recession Recession 1600 Recession jobs will be?” It will be in developing Recession 1400 countries! 1200 1000 800 A closer study of the changes taking place 600 and the trends that exist in consumer 400 behavior reinforce the need for 200 manufacturing companies to rethink their 0 56 58 60 62 64 66 68 70 72 74 76 78 80 82 84 86 88 90 92 94 96 business strategies. These strategies should include the way supply chains are managed Source: AAMA and products are manufactured. Industry today is confronted by a new set of Figure 1. requirements. The days of long runs of like U.S. Apparel Employment Statistics products are gone – they are rapidly being replaced by the next generation of manufacturing principles. It is being called the era of Mass Customization. U. S. Textile and Apparel Trade Million Dollars Imports 2. SIGNALS FOR CHANGE 50,000 There are some key indicators in the United 51,806 States that it is past time for change. The 40,000 first is that service expectations are higher 30,000 Deficit than they have ever been. Consumers used 24,705 20,000 15,101 to tolerate substandard service, but today, 10,000 they do not have time for it. People are no 3,470 Exports longer willing to stand in lines and be 0 ignored by bank tellers, hotel receptionists 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 92 94 95 96 or other service providers. They want Source: AAMA immediate and personalized service. Figure 2. Second, consumers want more variety. If U.S. Textile and Apparel Trade Deficit you do not believe it, investigate some of the consumer products and the options that are available today. To buy shampoo, for World Population In Billions example, a consumer must make multiple 8 7.26 7 decisions about his or her individual 6. 29 6 5.23 preferences before selecting the appropriate 4.48 5.94 5 5. 02 brand. Do they have oily hair, dry hair or 3.72 4 4.03 3.06 normal hair? Is it permed, dyed or tinted? 3 3.34 2.11 2.67 2 Is it thick, thin, or gone? Do they like 1 strawberry, apple, or banana fragrance? 0. 95 1.14 1.2 1.27 1.32 1.05 0 1960 1970 1980 1989 2000 2010 Developed Countries Developing Countries The same is true with other consumer goods. For those that have small children and wish Figure 3. to purchase disposable diapers, consumers World Population in Billions must not only know the sex of the child, but it’s age to the nearest week, and the This has significant implications for particular time of day that the diapers will be industries such as the apparel industry. So I ask, “Where is all of the growth taking 2 JTATM Volume 1, Issue 2, Winter 2001 worn, in order to make an accurate decision parts from one product could not necessarily regarding the type of diaper to purchase. be interchanged with the similar parts on To make this relative to the apparel industry, another product. Since products tended to I would suggest that you look around the be relatively expensive, access was limited room at any meeting and locate another primarily to the upper class or aristocracy. individual who is wearing the same “outfit” With the advent of the industrial revolution that you are wearing. The fact is that we and the concept of interchangeable parts, really do not want this to happen unless we like products began to be produced in large are wearing apparel that represents a team. quantities and were made available to the The fact is that we all want more variety! middle class. Because of the large production quantities of like products, the The third reason it is past time for change is costs were low enough that they became that consumers no longer want to order affordable for most people. goods and services and have to wait for their delivery. Ten years ago if a catalog order Mass Customization has emerged as a was placed, the expected delivery was four practice that combines the best of the craft to six weeks. Today, after two or three days, era with the best of the mass production era. consumers begin to wonder where and why Not to be confused with custom-made, mass their merchandise is being delayed. customized products may still be manufactured in relatively large quantities; The textile and apparel industries are not the however, each item might be slightly only industries impacted by these signals. different based on the needs and desires of Other industries are also experiencing the the individual end customer. Joe Pine refers kinds of changes that are causing a to the goal of Mass Customization to be to breakdown in mass production concepts. It provide enough variety so that the wants of is happening in the automotive industry. It the consumer are satisfied; whereas the goal is happening in telecommunications. It is of Mass Production was to produce at happening in the banking industry. It is sufficiently low cost so that everyone could happening in the insurance industry. have one. Everywhere one looks, there is a shift towards more personalized products and The ability for manufacturers to offer mass services. customization is limited by their ability to get consumer information to the 3. THE ERA OF MASS “workplace” doing the customization. Mass CUSTOMIZATION Customization is also limited by the extent So what does this mean for U.S. businesses? to which production workers have been Better yet, what does this mean for business cross-trained and empowered to accept in general? It means that it is time to change responsibility for the manufacturing and the way in which manufacturing “customization” process, so that they can organizations and service organizations accurately respond to those needs. In operate. Just as the craft era was replaced addition, manufacturers are constrained by by the era of mass production, mass the lack of available technology that can be production is being replaced by the era of reconfigured quickly, easily, and cost Mass Customization. effectively to meet consumer needs. Prior to the industrial revolution During the era of Mass Customization, manufacturing was considered a craft. product development cycles will be Products were typically custom made to extremely short and product life cycles will meet the needs of a particular individual. also be extremely short relative to the era of No two products were exactly alike and mass production. Large homogeneous markets will be replaced by heterogeneous 3 JTATM Volume 1, Issue 2, Winter 2001 niches with fragmented demand. Large 4. BODY SCANNING numbers of similar products will continue to For some apparel manufacturers, the term be manufactured; however, each consumer mass customization means manufacturing will be able to alter products based on their clothes that have been pre-altered to fit an individual needs and the capabilities of the individual’s body. A potential enabling producer. technology for this method of creating individualized products is body scanning. On the other hand, Mass Customization, Through body scanning, a three-dimensional does not mean that everything about a image of person’s body is captured product is customizable.