Epic Hikes 1 Preview

CONTENTS Easy Harder Epic

INTRODUCTION 04 Angels Landing (USA) 86 Godly Ways: Il Sentiero degli Dei (Italy) 170 OCEANIA 266 The Lost Coast Trail (USA) 92 The Fourteen Peaks of Snowdonia (Wales) 176 The Routeburn Track (New Zealand) 268 AFRICA 08 Four Days on the Alpine Pass Route (Switzerland) 182 Sydney’s Seven Bridges (Australia) 276 Cape Town’s Three Peaks in Three Days (South Africa) 10 ASIA 98 Mallorca’s Dry Stone Route (Spain) 188 The Great South West Walk (Australia) 282 Top of the World: Kilimanjaro (Tanzania) 16 Shikoku’s 88 Sacred Temples Pilgrimage (Japan) 100 A Walk through Time: the Thames Path (England) 194 Tasmania’s Three Capes Track (Australia) 288 Animal Magic: Zambian Walking Safari 22 Village to Village in the Markha Valley (India) 106 Wild Blue Yonder: Selvaggio Blu (Italy) 200 War and Peace: The Kokoda Track (Papua New Guinea) 294 Mamasa to Tana Toraja (Indonesia) 112 Guiding Stars: Transcaucasian Trail (Georgia) 206 The Abel Tasman Coast Track (New Zealand) 300 AMERICAS 30 Mt Kailash Pilgrimage Circuit (China) 118 Earth, Wind and Fire: Laugavegurinn (Iceland) 212 Feathertop to Bogong Traverse (Australia) 306 A Winter Descent of the Grand Canyon (USA) 32 Huángshān (China) 126 Beside the Lake in Wordsworth Country (England) 218 Indiana Jones and the Gold Coast (Australia) 312 Trekking the ‘W’ in Chile 38 A Summit of Island Peak (Nepal) 132 Across the Balkans on the Via Dinarica Trail 224 To the Lighthouse: Cape Brett Track (New Zealand) 318 Boston’s Freedom Trail (USA) 44 Alone on the Great Wall of China 138 Camino de Santiago (France to Spain) 230 Rockies Road: The Skyline Trail (Canada) 50 The Hong Kong Trail (China) 144 Walking on the Troll’s Tongue (Norway) 236 INDEX 324 Concepción Volcano Hike (Nicaragua) 56 Steps Ahead: Mt Kinabalu (Malaysia) 150 A Winter Traverse of the Great St Bernard Pass ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 328 Border Patrol on the Pacific Crest Trail (USA) 62 (Switzerland to Italy) 242 Heli-Hiking in the Bugaboo Mountains (Canada) 68 EUROPE 156 The Ring of Steall (Scotland) 248 Choquequirao: The Crowd-Free Inca Trail (Peru) 74 Coast to Coast on Hadrian’s Wall (England) 158 Happy Families: A Donkey Hike in the French Pyrenees 254

The Long (And Winding) Trail (USA) 80 Walking History: The Lycian Way (Turkey) 164 Enchanted Forest: The Westweg (Germany) 260 Montgomery | Lonely Planet © My Good Images | Shutterstock, Andrew | Getty, Scenics © Australian © Evenfh | Getty,

2 3 © Rmnunes | Getty

4 5 - EPIC HIKES OF THE WORLD -

Clockwise from left: trekking through snow in the Swiss Alps; the lost city of Choquequirao; regarding the view on the Routeburn Track, New Zealand. Previous page: hikers at the top of Mt Kinabalu in Borneo

INTRODUCTION hy do we hike? To exercise? To enjoy some giraffe and zebra (the Zambian walking safari), moose and grizzly pleasant scenery? To get from A to B? When we bear (the Skyline Trail), and echidna and koala (the Gold Coast asked our global network of 200 travel writers to Hinterland hike). The intrepid will not be disappointed: we feature W tell us about their most memorable hikes, it soon hikes in remote areas of India, Indonesia and the Caucasus, and became abundantly clear that the reasons went much deeper walks across empty stretches of the Great Wall of China. We than that. ‘Life-changing’ was a phrase that cropped up numerous commune with pilgrims in Tibet and venture on expeditions deep times. For some it seems hiking is about the personal challenge into the South American jungle. And let’s not forget the planet’s – the sense of reward and confidence born of completing a great cities: urban areas can be rich and invigorating hiking long-distance trail from end to end, or reaching the summit of destinations themselves, from the bridges of Sydney to the history a mountain. For others it is about gaining an understanding and architecture along the Thames in London to the skyline trails – to follow historic or religious trails and learn (and feel) how of Hong Kong. our ancestors got about before motorised transportation. One common theme is the sense of connection you can achieve with a HOW TO USE THIS BOOK destination when you put one foot in front of the other, repeatedly, The main stories in each regional chapter feature first-hand for hours, and days, on end. In his classic 1879 hiking memoir, accounts of fantastic hikes within that continent. Each includes a Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes, Robert Louis Stevenson factbox to help plan the trip – the best time of year to hike, how explains, ‘The great affair is to move; to feel the needs and to get there, where to stay. But beyond that, these stories should hitches of our life more clearly; to come down off this feather-bed spark other ideas. We’ve started that process with the ‘more like of civilisation, and find the globe granite underfoot and strewn this’ section that follows each story, offering other ideas along with cutting flints.’ a similar theme, not necessarily on the same continent. On the This book is intended to inspire hiking in all its myriad and flinty contents page, the hikes have been colour coded according to forms. We have selected 50 of the best and most inspiring routes their difficulty, which takes into account not just how long, remote suggested by our pool of travel writers, from athletic one-day and challenging they are but their logistics and local conditions. summits to months of pacing through valleys and across ridgeways The index collects different types of hike for a variety of interests. and international borders. These hikes cover almost every corner It’s important to note that many of the routes in this book are of the globe. The classics are well represented by the likes of difficult and challenging. Whether you’re a fleet-footed, seasoned the Pacific Crest Trail, Angels Landing and the Long Trail in the hiker or a novice embarking on your very first trek, please ensure USA, the ‘W’ Trek in Patagonia, and several of the Great Walks that you’re adequately prepared and have taken appropriate in New Zealand. Wildlife and walking have always gone hand safety precautions to help prevent against risks or dangers to

in hand and we have included hikes that involve encounters with yourself and others. | Shutterstock © Naruedom Yaempongsa Cichawa | Getty, | Lonely Planet, © Rafal © Justin Foulkes

6 7 8 9 - EPIC HIKES OF THE WORLD - - EPIC HIKES OF THE WORLD -

e stood, shivering, on Table Mountain’s famously flat top. A sense of achievement was in the air, LION’S and not just because we’d managed to ascend HEAD the mountain on a day when the infamous ‘Table PATH W START/FINISH Cloth’ was blissfully absent. The layer of thick cloud is renowned for its tendency to roll in and obliterate the vistas of Cape Town below. But our view was unobscured and for the third time that weekend we surveyed the city panorama far beneath our feet. Over the past three days we had tackled the trio of peaks CAPE TOWN’S START/ START/ DEVIL’S that watch over Cape Town – Lion’s Head, Devil’s Peak and FINISH FINISH PEAK Table Mountain. These are not the most daunting peaks in the PLATTEKLIP GORGE THREE PEAKS IN world to scale. All three added together still fall short of South Africa’s highest mountain – and that in turn is half the height of Kilimanjaro. Yet climbing one, two or three of the peaks is a TABLE THREE DAYS MOUNTAIN beautiful way to see one of the most beautiful cities in the world. NATIONAL MACLEAR'S Instead of admiring Cape Town’s mountains from the city, flip things around Hard-core hikers like to up the challenge by tackling all PARK BEACON

and scale the Mother City’s peaks for a view of the skyline, hills and coast. | Getty © Alexcpt three peaks in one day, but for mere mortals, the hikes are

10 11 - EPIC HIKES OF THE WORLD - - EPIC HIKES OF THE WORLD -

DASSIES OF TABLE MOUNTAIN

Wildlife along the three peaks is largely limited to lizards, bugs and birds, but you are fairly likely to meet a dassie, particularly on top of Table Mountain. Looking a lot like a big fat rodent, the fluffy mammals are actually most closely related to the elephant. Also known by the name of rock hyrax, the cute creatures hop between rocks and provide photographers with an adorable From left: hiking the path up alternative to all those Lion’s Head; a dassie watches on. best completed over the course of a weekend, interspersed “As the hike circles Lion’s Head, you get Gorge. It’s a steep, 2-mile (3km) climb and admittedly isn’t the cityscape shots. Previous page: the magnificent with shopping, beach trips or long lunches in Cape Town’s side prettiest of the Table Mountain routes, but that’s not to say it’s cityscape of Cape Town streets. And so, one Friday evening we joined the after-work an ever-changing view of the city, the an unattractive hike. There’s no disappointing way to reach crowd gathering on the road leading towards Lion’s Head. coast, the port and Table Mountain” the top of Table Mountain, particularly if the peak is free from It doesn’t matter what time of day you choose to ascend clouds. I mean to count the uneven and occasionally enormous the 2195ft (669m) hill – you’re always going to have plenty of steps as we go, but after about 50 or so my mind wanders to company. Early risers head up for a sunrise over the city, a steady all three of the peaks is the varied vistas over Cape Town, but more important things – photographing the slowly retreating city line of hikers climb throughout the day and on a full moon the there’s also plenty to see on the mountainside itself, particularly behind me, not tripping over loose rocks, keeping an eye out for diminutive peak is packed with wine-toting walkers here to watch for botanists and flower fans. The whole Table Mountain range is dassies scurrying in the undergrowth. ORIENTATION the sun set and the moon rise. layered with fynbos – indigenous shrub-like vegetation unique to We eventually emerge from the narrow gorge, but our climb is It’s only about an hour from the car park to the top, but just the region – and the overgrown vegetation provides a little shade not quite done. You can’t really call it a peak unless you reach Start // The Lion’s Head hike starts at the car park on because it’s short and slap bang in a city, that doesn’t make on an otherwise exposed route. the highest part, so we walk the extra half-hour to Maclear’s Signal Hill Rd. The easiest route up Devil’s Peak leaves from the walk easy. There are vertiginous ledges, steep inclines and It’s not just sun you’re likely to meet on Devil’s Peak – the Beacon. At 3563ft (1086m), it’s only 62ft (19m) higher than the Tafelberg Rd, a little further on from the starting point for the for those who crave a touch of adventure, a route that involves mountain, much like the city it resides in, is notoriously windy and upper cableway station, but it’s the principle of the thing that Platteklip Gorge hike. clinging on to ladders and chains manacled to the mountainside. as we emerge at the 3287ft (1000m) summit we’re almost blasted counts, so we save the celebratory high five for our arrival at the End // All three are out-and-back hikes, or you can opt to If you’re a little queasy with heights, you can bypass the ladders back down to road level. It’s instantly obvious why everyone pyramidal pile of rocks marking Table Mountain’s apex. By this take the cable car back down the Table Mountain section. – just keep an eye out for the sign marking the detour. quickly retreats to the eastern side of the peak to crack open the point I wish I had followed the ‘dress warm’ advice that I always Distance // Lion’s Head 3 miles (5km); Devil’s Peak As the hike circles Lion’s Head, you get an ever-changing view picnic. Once sheltered from the wind, we munch on slightly soggy offer to others heading up Table Mountain, but I had failed to 5.3 miles (8.5km); Maclear’s Beacon via Platteklip Gorge of the city, the coast, the port, and once at the peak you can sandwiches and try to pick out landmarks in Woodstock, the bring anything more than a very light sweater and the wind is 5 miles (8km); all distances are for a round trip. enjoy a vista that is considered by many to be superior to that southern suburbs and as far away as the Cape Flats. whipping straight through it. Getting there // Cape Town airport is 11 miles (18km) from from the top of Table Mountain, largely because the mountain It’s an out-and-back hike, and the loose gravel and sometimes It’s as good a time as any to join the queue for the cable the city. The hikes are best reached by car or taxi – all are a itself is the central feature of the view. The downward scramble steep incline make for a knee-jarring descent. By the time we’re car – the easiest and least knee-knocking way to descend. We short drive from the city centre. takes another hour and dusk is settling in when we head home to back at the car, my legs are wobbling in a way that makes me might not have managed the Three Peaks in record time – the What to take // The weather is extremely changeable so find a clean pair of socks for the next day’s hike. very happy that on the final hike there’s an alternative way to get speediest to date is under five hours to scale the trio back-to- be sure to have a light rain jacket and warm layers plus Although when seen from afar Devil’s Peak seems to jut above down the mountain. back – but at least the slow pace gives time to get back to sea sunscreen and a hat. Table Mountain, its jagged peak is in fact some 280ft (85m) shy There are many routes to the top of Table Mountain but level and enjoy the sights and bites of the city we’ve now viewed

of Table Mountain’s highest point. Of course, the main lure of we’re joining the shortest and most popular route, Platteklip Oeschger | Getty © Petri © Bildagentur Zoonar GmbH | Shutterstock from every possible angle. LC

12 13 - EPIC HIKES OF THE WORLD -

Opposite: admiring the rocky landscape of Cederberg from beneath the Wolfberg Arch

MORE LIKE THIS SOUTH AFRICAN DAY HIKES

MALTESE CROSS, CEDERBERG SENTINEL PEAK, DRAKENSBERG SHELTER ROCK, MAGALIESBERG

If you want to soak up the sandstone Also known as the ‘chain ladder walk’, this Within easy access of Johannesburg, scenery of the Cederberg on foot, but is not a route for the vertigo sufferer. After the Magaliesberg is a playground for are not quite up to an all-day scramble an initial steep climb, the path flattens outdoorsy Gauteng dwellers. Although up precipitous rock faces, the Maltese out for a while, but the real challenge dwarfed by the Drakensberg, the Cross hike is perfect. Undulating but never still awaits. Scaling the chain ladders up Magaliesberg has its own majesty thanks in steep, the three-hour round-trip walk takes the sheer face of the Mont-Aux-Sources no small part to the quintessential African in all that is best about the Cederberg massif takes a bit of nerve, but there is panoramas viewed from mountaintops. – scuttling lizards, big blue skies, hardy an (admittedly steep) alternative if you Leaving from an adventure camp that endemic plants and weird rock formations. just can’t face the two ladders. Once at also offers abseiling and rock climbing, The usual turn-around point is the Maltese the top, a fairly flat walk takes you above the hike transports you to the top of the Cross, a curious monolith seemingly the Tugela Falls, the second highest in the Magaliesberg range. There’s plenty of sprouting from the rocks scattered around world. Allow at least seven hours for the interest along the way, including glimpses it. If you’re feeling energetic – and you round-trip hike. of antelopes in the distance, Boer War already have a permit – you could continue Start/End // Sentinel Car Park, relics, enough birdlife to have you whipping up Sneeuberg, the range’s highest peak at Free State out your field guide and of course Shelter 6647ft (2026m). Distance // 9 miles (14km) Rock itself, a very climbable hulk of ochre- Start/End // Sanddrif Holiday Resort coloured sandstone. Distance // 4.3 miles (7km) Start/End // Shelter Rock Base Camp More info // Permits must be obtained Distance // 5 miles (8km) in advance from Sanddrif More info // Advance bookings are required and there is a fee to access the trail. Call +27 (0) 71 473 6298 © Mark Hannaford | AWL Images Ltd | AWL © Mark Hannaford © Xxxxxxxxxx Xxxxxxxxxxxxx

14 15 I you continue, onlytofindanother sublimebay. Andsoitgoeson. unforgivable nottostop,stripandplungeintotheblue.And then is different. For round everycorner isabeach sofineitwouldbe enjoy theexperience atacomfortable clip.No,here the challenge Kiwi capers –andcovering 9miles(15km)adayallowswalkers to series ofidylliccoves atthetopofNewZealand’s SouthIsland. fringing thecoastline ofAbelTasman NationalPark, linkinga lies theproblem withthistrail, arambling route through rata forests I haveaquickswim,orkeep walkingtowards thehut?Andtherein protective armsofFarewell SpitandD’UrvilleIsland. the watersofTasman Bay, aglassypuddlebecalmed betweenthe another beautifulbay, gildedbygoldensandandgentlystroked by along theAbelTasman CoastTrack, andbefore longIstumbleinto Fortunately, picnicpossieswithepicocean viewsare plentiful walk, beyondlimpingrange ofhumanhabitationorhelp. sea mammal,especiallynotquarterwaythrough a37-mile(60km) to endupinafist/flipperfightwith330lb(150kg) ofrudelyawoken bagging sillysealyselfies.Ikeep arespectful distance, notwanting as Iam–somethinghemakes cacophonously clearwhenIbegin ruined itsreverie bygatecrashing thesecludedbeach. been enjoyingamorningsnoozeundershimmeringsununtilI The hike isn’tphysically tough–notcompared withmost multiday Once lunchismunched,aninternaldebatebegins:should So Ileavehimtosnore andseek analternativesnackspot. Evidently, mynewfriendisn’tasexcited aboutourencounter belching lumpofgrumpyNewZealandfurseal,whichhad Apparently, thislogisn’twoodatall.It’s aheaving,breathing, and letoutanindignantsnort,I’d havesatonittoeatlunch. f thehugepiece ofdriftwood hadn’tsuddenlysprouted ahead around tides andboundsbetween the baysandgoldencovesof the South Island. One of New Zealand’s Great Walks, this world-class beachcombingcaper tiptoes THE ABEL TASMAN COAST TRACK COAST - EPIC HIKES OF THEWORLD - 300 NATI ABEL T ABEL AL P ONAL W START START AINUI BAY ASM AN ARK SEPARA MARAHAU FIN PO H ISH INT ON TION

T ORRENT BAY T ASM BAY AN

Small wonder the Coast Track is an original member of New Zealand’s much-feted group of Great Walks, a list that features the nation’s top trails. In a country well-endowed with KAYAKING THE epic hiking routes, it takes something special to feature in this COAST TRACK premier league of paths. Tongariro has dramatic volcanoes and multi-coloured mineral-stained lakes; the Routeburn, Kepler The Coast Track is and Milford Tracks make the grade through the magnificence a cracking walk, of Fiordland; and the Abel Tasman Coast Track gets the nod but Abel Tasman because it’s one of the world’s best beachcombing adventures. National Park’s shores The walk can be done in either direction, but most people start can also be explored at Marahau and spend several days strolling north, returning via from the cockpit water taxi from Totaranui. A decade earlier I’d walked the route of a sea kayak. this way. Then, tramping around New Zealand on a backpacker’s Several operators budget and unable to afford the boat transfers, I had continued offer combined to Whariwharangi Hut and spent three days trekking back to hiking and paddling Marahau via the Abel Tasman Inland Track (a 25-mile/41km path adventures, where along Evans Ridge and through the beech forests of Moa Park), a it’s possible to kayak more challenging and less trafficked trail than its coastal cousin. across translucent This experience taught me that the top part of the Coast Track lagoons and offers quieter paths, better vistas and more wildlife encounters between bays, before than the rest of the route. Armed with this insight and angling swapping blade for for new views, I’ve returned to walk north-to-south, after being boots and walking dropped off at Wainui Bay. Trekking in this direction involves back. Marahau to an extra layer of logistics, but it launches you straight into the Anchorage Bay is wildest sections of the trail, and soon after rounding scenic a popular paddling Separation Point, the decision pays off, as I meet the seal in section, with walkers Mutton Cove. wandering onward Clockwise from top: kayaks at My dilemma – to take a dip or dawdle on – begins just around usually to Bark Bay Watering Cove; walking the beaches of the corner, in Anapai Bay, one of the most beautiful bitemarks “Round every corner is a beach so fine it or Onetahuti before Abel Tasman; another glorious bay. found along this whole sensationally serrated shoreline. I don’t would be unforgivable not to stop, strip catching a water Previous page: footsteps in the golden hesitate long. Once past Totaranui, I’ll be sharing the huts and taxi back. sands of Marahau the trail with trampers and paddlers aplenty, and the water will be and plunge into the blue” busy with boats, so I embrace the empty beach and dive into the ORIENTATION translucent brine that’s all mine for a few magical moments. Sometimes you simply have to get wet. The Coast Track isn’t Start // Wainui Car Park a technical trail, but the tidal range here is large, and there are End // Marahau several estuary crossings to negotiate. At Bark Bay and Torrent Distance // 37 miles (60km) Bay, high-tide inland walk-around options exist, but Awaroa Inlet Getting there // Marahau is easily accessed from Picton, can only be crossed two hours either side of low tide. Campsites where the Interislander ferry arrives from Wellington. and huts have tide tables, and sometimes it’s necessary to set off When to go // The Abel Tasman can be done any time of before dawn to avoid delays, but even when you nail the timing, year, but the trails and campsites heave with hikers (and socks and shoes must be removed while you wade across. kayakers) during summer (Dec–Feb). October to November The delightful distractions continue as the track tramps over the and March to April offer better conditions. 853ft (260m) Tonga Saddle and drops to a sensational stretch of Where to stay // The Department of Conservation (DoC) sand at Onetahuti Beach, before ambling past Arch Point – an operates huts and campsites along the route; book ahead. extraordinary exhibition of rock art sculpted by the elements. What to take // A relatively gentle multiday hike, the Abel I enviously eye kayakers departing from the beach at Bark Bay, Tasman can easily be done in running shoes. The route rarely and make a mental note to return and paddle the park, for a new rears above 650ft (200m) and the weather is temperate, view of this epic coastline. Now, though, I have a bigger boat to but take waterproofs and warm layers for evenings. Pack catch, to the North Island. I wobble over the famous Falls River swimming gear, and a mask and snorkel. swingbridge to Torrent Bay, where another tidal crossing lies in wait

302 303 heaphytrack More info// www.doc.govt.nz/ Distance // 49miles(78.4km) oneway Collingwood) End // Brown Hut(Golden Bay, via Start // Kohaihai (nearKaramea) kiwi) enroute. carnivorous snail!)androa (great spotted and lookoutforpowelliphanta(agiant pedal theroute, orfourdaysto walkit, challenge. Allowtwonights/three days to way youapproach it,theHeaphy isanepic and doingthesameinreverse. Whichever Perry Saddle,orbeginningatBrown Hut traversing Kahurangi NationalPark via River, ascending GoulandDownsand west coast, before crossing theHeaphy Tasman SeaalongtheSouthIsland’s wild either startingatKohaihai andtracing the can tacklethetrack inbothdirections, are permitted1May–30November).You can behiked orbiked (mountainbikes Tasman bybootorboat,sotheHeaphy As adventurers can explore theAbel can alsobeenjoyed intwodistinctways. Another Great Walk, theHeaphyTrack THE HEAPHYTRACK, NEW ZEALAND MULTI-SPORTS TRAILS MORE LIKE THIS Heaphy TrackNew Zealand’s crossing the bridgeat the climax of Northern Ireland’s Coast; Causeway Opposite from top: Carrick-a-Rede on JATBULA TRAIL,AUSTRALIA More info// www.northernterritory.com Distance // 38.5miles(62km) oneway End // Leliyn (EdithFalls) Start // NitmilukGorge with gorge-exploring canoeing adventures. August). Someoperators combine walks is bestwalked during‘theDry’(May– beside swimmingspots.Thistropical trail and SweetwaterPool are all situated Crystal Creek, 17MileFalls, SandyCamp Campsites atBiddlecombe Cascades, the toweringArnhemLandescarpment. and spectacularwaterfallstumblingfrom songline andpassingJawoynrock art Park, tracing anancient indigenous the trail, whichtraverses NitmilukNational Leliyn. Ittypically takes fivedaystotrek pointing thewayfrom Katherine Gorge to marked inonedirection, withbluetriangles or withguidedgroups, butthetrack isonly rugged route can behiked independently Katherine Riverat17MileCreek, the Beginning withaboattripacross the Territory isanepicAustralian adventure. pools, theJatbulaTrail intheNorthern A hikingexperience punctuatedbyplunge - EPIC HIKES OF THEWORLD - 304 com More info// www.causewaycoastway. Distance // 32miles(51km) End // Portstewart Start // Ballycastle of Antrim. between MagilliganPoint andtheGlens exploring theNorthCoastSeaKayak Trail Coast ultramarathon, orpaddleitwhile running theroute duringtheCauseway days, butifyouwanttouptheante,try direction, overtwoorthree relatively easy listen to.Thewalkcan bedoneineither mac Cumhaill,dependingonwhoyou eruption, oraCelticwarriorcalled Fionn columns created eitherbyahugevolcanic comprised of40,000hexagonal basalt – asemi-submerged geological wonder course, theenigmatic Giant’s Causeway Bridge, medievalDunluce Castleand,of nerve-knackering Carrick-a-Rede Rope sights alongtheway. Theseincludethe Portstewart, takinginaseriesoficonic the historictownsofBallycastle and Coast Way draws adramatic linebetween of Ulster’s jaggedshores, theCauseway Stepping outalongasuperstoriedsection NORTHERN IRELAND CAUSEWAY COAST WAY,