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Irlande Du Nord Du 21 Au 28 Mai 2009

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Irlande Du Nord Du 21 Au 28 Mai 2009 Pierre Béhel - http://www.pierrebehel.com/ Irlande du Nord du 21 au 28 mai 2009 Ce troisième voyage en Irlande, après le week-end dans la région de Dublin en 2004 et mon circuit en Irlande du Sud en 2005, m'a conduit dans le Nord, l'Ulster historique. L'ancien comté d'Ulster est séparé entre l'Ulster britannique et quelques districts affectés à la République (essentiellement la région de Donegal). Comme lors de mon circuit précédent, je suis parti avec trois amis en utilisant les services de l'agence Comptoir des Voyages. Page 1/14 Pierre Béhel - http://www.pierrebehel.com/ Belfast Belfast est une ville nettement plus « anglaise » et moins sympathique que Dublin. Cette petite ville industrielle dominée par l'histoire de ces chantiers navals n'avait nulle vocation à devenir capitale. L'architecture est très anglaise et l'esprit est resté très anglais (pas de musique traditionnelle dans les pubs...) alors que Dublin a su conquérir une identité propre. Ci-dessus, vous pouvez découvrir de gauche à droite puis de bas en haut : deux photos de Great Victoria Street, la mairie et une vue des bords de la Logan. La chute des chantiers navals et des industries connexes a poussé à la restructuration des « docks », comme à Londres, et un nouveau quartier est né le long de l'estuaire de la rivière Logan. Dans le nord de la ville, on découvre le « château » de Belfast, en fait un manoir de style anglais. Comme presque partout dans le Sud, rien ne subsiste en ville de l'histoire d'Irlande avant la colonisation britannique. Ce château possède un jardin aux neufs chats (en sculpture, mosaïque, buisson taillé, etc.) et une superbe vue sur l'estuaire de la Logan. Page 2/14 Pierre Béhel - http://www.pierrebehel.com/ La question religieuse et ethnique sera évidemment présente tout au long de notre voyage en Irlande du Nord. Les Irlandais celtes sont pour la plupart catholiques romains et républicains tandis que les colons Ecossais sont plutôt presbytériens. Il y a aussi quelques Anglais épiscopaliens (anglicans, surtout à Dublin et Derry). Ecossais et Anglais sont dits « Unionistes » ou « Loyalistes » puisqu'ils ne souhaitent pas le rattachement de l'Irlande du Nord à la République mais bien conserver leur loyauté au Royaume Uni de Grande Bretagne et d'Irlande. Chaque quartier marque aisément sa préférence au travers de murs peints, ici « loyaliste », donc anglo-écossais. La séparation entre Irlandais celtes et britanniques reste très actuelle, malgré la paix. La paix est d'ailleurs relative : la police conserve ses gilets pare-balles pour patrouiller et ses bâtiments sont entourés de murs barbelés. Saint Patrick est la cathédrale catholique. Elle est assez classique dans son style « brique rouge ». D'une manière générale, on remarquera que les églises sont généralement peu décorées par rapport à ce que l'on peut voir dans d'autres pays, comme la Pologne par exemple. L'esprit protestant a soufflé aussi sur les églises catholiques... Page 3/14 Pierre Béhel - http://www.pierrebehel.com/ A l'inverse, Sainte Anne, la cathédrale anglicane, n'est pas banale à cause de son étrange mât métallique lui tenant lieu de clocher. On le découvre ici sous plusieurs angles, y compris vu de l'intérieur, au niveau du choeur. L'intérieur est par contre très classique. Page 4/14 Pierre Béhel - http://www.pierrebehel.com/ Mount Stewart Oublions quelques instants les querelles ethnico-religieuses pour admirer le magnifique manoir de Mount Stewart au milieu d'un jardin extraordinaire, au Sud-Ouest de Belfast. Le château bénéficie d'une vue superbe sur le lough Strangford. Un lough est -rappelons-le- la version locale du fjord et de la calanque : une vallée glaciaire inondée communiquant avec la mer. Page 5/14 Pierre Béhel - http://www.pierrebehel.com/ Côte Nord-Est Pour rejoindre Coleraine à partir de Belfast, il convient d'emprunter la route de la côte Nord-Est. La petite ville côtière de Carrickfergus est surtout intéressante pour son château fort. Un peu plus loin sur la côte, il y a le très joli site du village (également côtier) de Ballycastle. Page 6/14 Pierre Béhel - http://www.pierrebehel.com/ Côte Nord (Chaussée des Géants et environs) Le site de Carrick-a-Rede est surtout connu pour un pont de corde qui permet de rejoindre une petite île par dessus des flots marins en furie. Ce n'est pas si évident que cela sous la pluie et le vent. Les paysages de falaises sont absolument magnifiques dans cette zone. Un peu plus loin, la station balnéaire huppée de Portrush (une sorte de Deauville local) est surtout célèbre pour son château en ruine sur le bord de la falaise. La Chaussée des Géants est un ensemble de parallélépipèdes à section hexagonale plus ou moins régulière. Il s'agit en fait d'une formation basaltique qui n'est pas très vaste mais demeure impressionnante. Page 7/14 Pierre Béhel - http://www.pierrebehel.com/ Derry / Londonderry Tout, dans cette ville (jusqu'au conflit sur son nom), est marqué par le conflit entre Celtes Républicains (qui utilisent le nom traditionnel « Derry ») et Anglo-Ecossais Unionistes (qui préfèrent « Londonderry »). L'ambiance y est lourde, même pour le touriste de passage. Mais, malgré tout, c'est une ville charmante, l'une des dernière d'Europe à disposer encore de ses fortifications complètes. Dans les quartiers plus populaires, autour de la cathédrale catholique, l'ambiance n'est plus aux vieilles pierres... Page 8/14 Pierre Béhel - http://www.pierrebehel.com/ Les murs peints expriment ici aussi clairement les préférences locales. Page 9/14 Pierre Béhel - http://www.pierrebehel.com/ Grianan of Aileach Dans les environs de L'Derry (pour reprendre la graphie consensuelle des panneaux routiers), le magnifique site de Grianan of Aileach permet de prendre un peu de hauteur. Il s'agit d'un fort de pierre du haut Moyen-Âge situé sur une colline d'où l'on découvre une lande superbe. Page 10/14 Pierre Béhel - http://www.pierrebehel.com/ Péninsule d'Inishoven La péninsule d'Inishoven est l'occasion de passer en République d'Irlande, juste à l'Est de L'Derry. Cette péninsule est une excroissance de l'île d'Irlande vers le Nord et possède d'ailleurs, à Malin Head, le point le plus septentrional de l'île. Quasiment déserte, cette zone est très vallonnée et possède des falaises magnifiques. Page 11/14 Pierre Béhel - http://www.pierrebehel.com/ Donegal et sa région La petite ville de Donegal est une gentille bourgade qui contrôle l'accès au Comté de Donegal, surtout célèbre pour les falaises de Bunglass, la plage de Trabane Strand... et son industrie du tweed traditionnel et artisanal. Comme l'Irlande du Sud, l'Irlande du Nord est riche en moutons, donc en laine et en ragoûts de moutons. Page 12/14 Pierre Béhel - http://www.pierrebehel.com/ Page 13/14 Pierre Béhel - http://www.pierrebehel.com/ Le Sud du Nord Pour revenir à Belfast, il convient de passer par les ruines monastiques de Devenish Island et à Castle Coole dans les environs d'Enniskillen (un coup d'oeil suffit). Ultime étape avant le retour sur l'aéroport de Belfast et le départ d'Irlande, la petit ville d'Armagh est surtout remarquable par ses deux cathédrales : la plus trapue est anglicane, la plus belle catholique romaine. Page 14/14.
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