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Vitale, a tribute to the Emperor Justinian and Where: 46 miles/74 km east of Bologna. held by many to be the crowning achievement of Visitor info: www.ravennamosaici.it. Where Byzantine art in the world. to stay: Albergo Cappello offers contempo- Among Ravenna’s other monuments is the rary style in a frescoed, 14th-century palazzo. simple tomb of Dante Alighieri. The early Tel 39/0544-219813; www.albergocappello.it. Renaissance thinker and author of the Divine Cost: from $185 (off-peak), from $260 (peak). Comedy was banished from his hometown of Best time: Jun–Jul for Ravenna Festival of Florence and died in Ravenna in 1321. opera and classical music.
Crossroads of the North
F r i u l i Friuli–Venezia Giulia, Italy ucked away into Italy’s northeast corner, just south of Austria and snug against the border of Slovenia, Friuli is where Italians escape on Tgastronomic holidays. From the Adriatic coast and the regional capital of Trieste northward to the Julian Alps, Friuli is a east of Udine, the medieval village of Cividale landscape rich with mountain meadows, roll- del Friuli is the hub of the wine trade in the ing hillsides, and fertile plains. It is a small Colli Orientali growing district. Locanda al region with a big reputation for sweet pro- Castello offers 16 atmospheric rooms in a sciutto hams from the village of San Daniele, vine-covered brick castle, originally a Jesuit robust artisanal cheeses, and what many con- monastery. Its dining room is noted for the sider Italy’s best white wines from the Friulano local recipes made famous in the U.S. by chef, grape. As befits the crossroads of Latin, author, and TV personality Lidia Bastianich. Germanic, and Slavic cultures, the cucina fri- She and son Joseph operate the nearby winery ulana features hearty sausages, goulash, and Azienda Agricola Bastianich, in Gagliano. polenta alongside cjalsons (sweet-and-savory The crowning glory of their operation is the ravioli), wafers of fried Montasio cheese called single-vineyard selection of Friulano, the frico, and delicate herb sauces on pasta. local grape that makes an intense, complex The stately medieval city of Udine, with its white wine. handsome Renaissance buildings by Andrea Where: Udine is 79 miles/127 km north- Palladio and wealth of luminous paintings by east of Venice. Trattoria Agli Amici: Tel Tiepolo, stands at the center of it all. Chef 39/0432-565411; www.agliamici.it. Cost: din- Emanuele Scarello runs Agli Amici, his fami- ner $75. Al Grop: Tel 39/0432-660240; ly’s trattoria, which dates from 1887. His www.algrop.net. Cost: $160; dinner $60. inventive cooking calls on the region’s Locanda al Castello: Tel 39/0432-733242; Austrian, Slovenian, and Italian traditions. www.alcastello.net. Cost: $215; dinner $60. Keepers of the flame of local cuisine, the Del Azienda Agricola Bastianich: Tel 39/0462- Fabbro family operates Trattorìa Al Grop, a 700943; www.bastianich.com. Best times: venerable inn in Tavagnacco, famed for its Mar–Apr for asparagus season; late Jun for vast repertoire of recipes featuring the cele- San Daniele prosciutto festival; and Sep–Oct brated local asparagus. A few minutes’ drive for wine harvest.