out as early as practical. Particularly if you station. The Marina across the bay has a Sailing around have to beat against a strong afternoon doubtful access for sailboats. has wind. a fuel outlet and then it is back into civi- By Dick Pattinson, GWAHIR The normal summer weather pattern lisation at Victoria. is to be calm at night, with sea-fog which After leaving Ganges, I usually try to, clears up about ten o’clock followed by at least, get through Dodds Narrows on a westerly which builds up in the late the first day. It takes me 7 or 8 hours afternoon. depending on the tide and the wind. Not Fuel is fairly easy to obtain on the east being a purist, I motor or motor-sail if coast of the island but after that the sta- the wind is not favourable enough to tions are few and far between. After give me four knots or so. This part of the Campbell River or Quathiaski Cove the journey could be broken up with a stay next fuel station would be Blind Chan- at Wallace Island or Pirates Cove. How- nel, then Kelsey Bay, Minstrel Island, La- ever these locations are within easy reach goon Cove, Alert Bay, Port McNeill, of Ganges, and, after all, it is the West Sointula, and . Then there is a Coast that we want to explore. The Part 1: Heading north long stretch up Goletas Channel, past Sailing Club and Schooner Bull Harbour, and around Cape Scott and Cove Club offer reciprocal privileges. Try Interested in sailing around Vancouver down to to the next fuel and get inside moorage at either of these Island? Well there are certain factors station. That’s a long way. Then it is a places for a good night’s rest. Sometimes which will inhibit actually sailing and long way from there to Kyuquot for the I anchor in Brickyard Bay on the west side make motoring necessary at times. There next fuel supply. After that there is a sta- of the entrance to Nanoose Harbour. The are tides, winds (or lack of), and distances tion in Esperanza Inlet at the Mission, or, next destination is Comox partly because to contend with. There are only a few alternatively, up Zeballos Inlet to the of family ties. If there is a strong north safe places to spend the night, or, per- town of Zeballos. At the head of westerly blowing in the Strait it is usu- haps, days if waiting out the weather. It Inlet the town of Tahsis has fuel. From ally better to go up the coast to where is essential for safety to travel to these this area it is necessary to make a long you can turn out above the Ballenas Is- places. Unlike kayaking, where you can run out around Estevan Point to the next lands (to avoid Whiskey Golf) and then go ashore almost anywhere, a sailboat fuel stop at . is not far cut across below to the lower end of must anchor or tie up at a secure spot. from here and then at the other Texada. The westerly winds are usually The total distance is over 700 nautical end of Long Beach, both with fuel sta- weaker on the east side of Texada. From miles when you consider the courses into tions. would be the next sup- Comox it is a nice step if you can make and out of anchorages and inlets. De- ply. Fuel could be obtained at Port Ren- it past the Seymour Narrows in a day. It pending on the tide, it is best to start frew by carrying it down from the fuel may be necessary to wait in Quathiaski Cove (or Campbell River) for the tide to Robson Bight. At the head of Port Harvey Part 2: Port Hardy North turn to ebb. Try and get at the entrance there is a a good anchorage. Alternatively Port Hardy is the last chance to replen- to the Narrows at high water slack for a one can turn to starboard at the Broken ish your fuel and other supplies until you good push north. If time is short, anchor Islands and travel via Havannah and arrive at Winter Harbour, at least two or in Plumper Bay (avoid Deep Water Bay) Chatham Channel to Minstrel Island. more days later depending on the or Kanish Bay. At Chatham Point the Check the tide book for the narrows as it weather and your inclination to enjoy better anchorage is across from the light runs quite swiftly and the Channel is nar- poking around. I usually get my supplies behind Turn Island, rather than in the row. You have to line up the beacons at at the grocery store near the Seagate kelpy anchorage at Otter Cove south of each end. Fuel up at Minstrel or alterna- Hotel. They will drive you down to the the light. tively at Lagoon Cove a short distance boat basin with a reasonable purchase. At Chatham Point an alternative course away through the ‘Blow Hole’. From here The boat basin is the place to stay. You is possible by turning to the starboard proceed down Knight Inlet to the old have a choice of the government (mu- and going up Nodales Channel. Indian village site of Mamalilikula on Vil- nicipal) floats or a marina. The latter’s Johnstone Strait may be unsuitable be- lage Island. It is worth a visit. From there floats are quite decrepit but the other cause of the wind and the other route proceed down Canoe Pass out past Dou- floats are usually taken up by fishing ves- offers some respite and also a possible ble Bay and on to Alert Bay. sels. Of course you can tie up alongside overnight at Shoal Harbour in Cardero At Alert Bay there is usually room be- a fishboat without any trouble. The Ma- Channel, or some other spot farther on hind the breakwater. This is the best spot rina does have marine supplies and more where there is a floating restaurant. In to avoid swell from passing vessels dur- important … showers, which you have pursuing this course one comes to ing the night. There are three ‘Super to pay for whether you stay there or not. Mayne Channel where there is a fine res- Markets’ here, restaurants, showers, etc. Fuel supplies can be obtained at the taurant and a store that sells fresh home The tallest totem pole in the world stands marina, or from a barge located at the made bread and buns. This is also called at the head of the Bay near the site of entrance to the boat basin. I use the lat- Blind Channel. On continuing farther the former Community House which was ter. Fishing in the harbour or at the en- through the rapids here and at Welbore destroyed by an arsonist recently. Other trance is sometimes quite good. a nice stop is at Douglas Bay in Forward alternatives to Alert Bay are Port McNeill On leaving Port Hardy one travels up Harbour. From here proceed to Sunder- and Sointula. Goletas Channel. The run to Bull Harbour land Channel which takes you back to Port Hardy is the next destination and is only 24 nautical miles. There is a place Johnstone Strait. Port Neville is a place the last chance for supplies and fuel be- off to the side in Christie Pass called God’s to overnight as well as to view the fore going around the Cape to Winter Pocket where meals are served. It is on petroglyphs at Robbers Nob. Harbour. Hurst Island. A bit farther on, if the From here one can get to Alert Bay in weather should turn bad, one can an- a nice run up Johnstone Strait. Watch for chor in Port Alexander on Nigei Island. the Orcas in this area, particularly around Further along there is an inter- the east of the cape where esting site although there is Cape Scott there is a good anchorage. nothing to see. It is Loquilla N The petroglyph is right at the Cove where one of the early point on a large boulder. explorers came upon a de- There was a report that there serted Indian village where he are several petro-glyphs buried something under a big Vancouver Island around the area but I have tree on the shore. Someone in Winter only seen one. Some travel- the Provincial Museum, read- Harbour lers, to avoid Nahwitti Bar do ing his diary in recent years, go around it by traversing went there and found the ob- through Tatnall Reefs with ject. one eye on the sounder and At the end of Nigei Island, the other on the chart, or on Bates Pass flows into Goletas Sound Pacific Ocean the GPS waypoints. Channel. This is the spot to get out your trolling gear and try for a salmon. Up Bates Pass on Scouler Entrance Part 3: Bull Harbour Hope Island is an abandoned Brooks Bull Harbour is located on Indian village. The beach in Bay Hope Island which is an In- front of the village is com- dian Reserve. It was formerly posed of small smooth stones Solander leased by the Department of where the Orcas beach them- Island Klaskish Transport for a marine radio selves to scratch off any un- Cape Cook station which was operated wanted growths they may Brooks Peninsula there for many years. When Acous Peninsula have. The only other place Clerke Point the lease ran out it was not where this is done is at Robson renewed and the buildings Bight in Johnstone Strait. The Bunsby Islands and much of the equipment village may be worth looking Checleset were abandoned. There is a Bay at. Next stop is Bull Harbour. Kyuquot sign at the beginning of the There is an interesting road from the dock which petroglyph at Cape Sutil welcomes you and is signed which is on Vancouver Island by the Indian Nation. out past Nahwitti Bar or the Kyuquot The light at the entrance Tatnall Reefs. There is a bay to Sound to the harbour is called Godkin Point and the entrance is However, do not leave Bull Harbour are favourable. The weather looks alright. guarded by steep cliffs. Keep to the right without exploring the site. You can leave Then go for it! at the island blocking the entrance. As your dinghy at the ramp and walk up Be all ready to go before high slack as you round that, you will see a float with the road along the east side of the bay. it will take a while to get out to the Bar. a blinking navigational light on it. This You will come to a helicopter pad which The following are fishermens’ comments light and the float belong to the Federal is settling, then a power house which is on the coast from here to Winter Har- Government. You may use it, but it is also empty. Further along, as you start to turn bour: Cape Sutil - popular fishing anchor- used by draggers and packers who ar- the corner to the left, you will pass the age. Excellent in a westerly but some rive at all hours of the day or night and water supply which are ponds, and re- surge in strong winds. Excellent for crabs. who resent your being in their way. The mains of the pumping and purification Fishermens Bay is good in moderate bright lights and noise are not worth the plant. Then the houses start along the westerly. Nissen Bight (extreme south convenience of using the float and in the left side of the road. They are in various bay) has a trail to Hansen’s Lagoon and morning you may find fish offal thrown degrees of repair. The old station is lo- Cape Scott. Good beach-combing beach on board your boat. cated where a ramp runs out into the to west. Anywhere from Nahwitti Bar to Further into the harbour there is a bay. The last operating station is located Cape Scott, in close to land, is good in marine wharf where the ramp to get farther west at the end of an overgrown strong SE winds. Watch at Cape Scott as ashore is located. This wharf is too high trail which is practically impassable. sometimes strong SE winds will come up for all but the biggest of vessels. The most Don’t bother with it. Across from the sta- Goletas Channel. In a strong SW it is pos- satisfactory anchorage here is to drop the tion, on the right hand side of the road, sible to anchor in Experimental Bight but hook in the harbour and use the dinghy is Roller Bay where the seas come crash- watch for wind change to Westerly. There to get around. However, check your ing in, coming all the way from Japan. are nice sand dunes and a trail to the depth and remember that in these north- You will notice that the boulders are pol- . However, carefully choose a ern latitudes there is a much greater ished from the constant grinding. If the spot to be able to get the dinghy off the range of tides than around Ganges. tide is down there is a nice walk along beach without swamping it. Guise Bay The ideal time for leaving Bull Harbour the beach to the westward. After the end on the other side of the Cape is another for Cape Scott is early in the morning of the houses, I noticed a dog’s grave. possible anchorage but has rocks on the around five o’clock when it is high wa- ‘Woofer, a friend to all’. approach. This anchorage is terrible if the ter slack. This is the best time to cross wind should switch, as are most one di- Nahwitti Bar as it will be calm and you Part 4: Around Cape Scott rection anchorages. will have a tidal push toward your desti- Now for Cape Scott. Stay outside of Well, you have looked in the tide book nation. You will notice the ocean swell the 18 fathom depth to avoid rocks. under Tofino and figured out that high as soon as you cross the bar. It is not bad There are strong currents at times which water slack is at five a.m. in the morning but it is there to remind you that you are do not correspond to the tide book. Defi- on the Nahwitti Bar. The weather reports headed for the West Coast. nitely forget passage with opposing wind and tide. Don’t bother with the Scott Is- to outer waters of Winter Harbour. aware of Pinnacle Islet and keep clear. lands, appealing as they appear. They are Entering Winter Harbour one goes On the north side of Matthews Island is covered with a thick impenetrable for- a popular anchorage. The floats and est so that there is beach-combing only. docks in Winter Harbour are left around Vancouver Island Hansen Lagoon may be used as an an- Greenwood Point which is an Indian Re- chorage in any light wind or moderate Kyuquot serve. During fishing season the floats are to strong SE. Check the chart for suit- crowded. The first one is the old B.C. able depths. The next safe anchorage is Fair Harbour Packers float and above the jetty is a store

Sea Otter Cove. Do not attempt to en- Crowther Rugged Point with about everything you need includ- ter it through the first (west side) en- Channel ing a liquor outlet. The prices are high, trance but go down around Winnifred but hey, this is at the end of the road Tatchu Islands and enter the marked channel. It Point from Port Hardy. Sometimes there is a Queen Cove is narrow and can be easily missed. In- Catala Isl. Ehatisaht Village resturant operating nearby. Take time to EsperanzaTahsis Mission side there are numerous mooring Gillam Channel Ceepeecee walk the board walk along the shore-line buoys but the Cove is quite shallow so to view the quaint scene. There is also a keep an eye on the chart and sounder. Nootka trail nearby to Botel Park which runs Remember the greater tidal range in Island through the woods and comes out on a these latitudes. Often it blows stronger Santa Strange Island beach at the entrance to the harbour. Gertrudis in here than on the outside. Some feel Cove The headquarters of W.D. Moore logging that Hanna Point bay is a better anchor- Friendly company are nearby. This is a family op- Cove age in a westerly and it is easier to ob- erated enterprise which has been going serve the outside winds. If there is a for many years. Patrick Moore, the for- strong south easterly then use the south Cook Channel estry advocate, is the third generation Pacific Ocean side of San Joseph Bay. At the head of N of the family. the bay a trail from Holberg comes out After Winter Harbour, where you will and there is an interesting cave, rock for- have topped up your fuel supplies and mations and a cabin. There was a settle- provisions, you have two choices. Explore ment here in the early days. In a light with it’s settlements of south east one can anchor at Commerell Quatsino, Mahatta River, , Coal Point to explore Raft Cove. There is a around Kains Island between it and Harbour and Holberg, or head south to cabin on the south side of the entrance. Robson Rock. Some fisher folk with local continue around Vancouver Island. Farther down we come to Grant Bay. This knowledge enter through the passage is a good anchorage in a westerly. There behind Kains Island but one look at the is a nice beach, a cabin, and a trail over chart should discourage most people. Be Estevan Hesquiat happens to be shrubs and bushes. It looks ashore but never made it. Otto said that Point Boat (Rae) Basin Hot Flores I. as if you might land there and as a mat- it would be hard to find anything now Springs Shelter Inlet Vancouver Island ter of fact, during the last war a warplane with all the growth and the fact that it Cove Hayden Pass Ahousat did just that, under weird circumstances. was blown up by the army. The last time Little Whitepine Cove The story was told to me by Otto Botel, he was there he said he looked around Schindler Point Meares I. a fishman from Winter Harbour. It seems and found that he was standing on part Tofino that the plane landed on the point and, of the wing. My son has been ashore Wickanninish Bay before it could stop rolling, crashed into there but was not looking for the aircraft. Ucluelet Broken Group the line of trees at the back of the ‘field’, He did take a dandy panoramic series of Amphitrite Point Imperial Eagle setting the trees on fire. The crew man- slides of the scene from the beach. In Channel Barkley Sound aged to get out as not all the plane the distance one can see Solander Island Cape burned. Fishermen found the aircraft and Brooks Peninsula. To explore the site, Bamfield Beale sometime later when they went ashore I think the best way would be to anchor Pachena Point N Nitinat Narrows just looking around. They found about the main boat in an out-of-the-wind bay

Carmanah eight bodies sitting around the site of a near Newton Entrance and go to the Point campfire and their dog tags had been point by Zodiac or dinghy. Port San Juan removed. The authorities were notified One popular anchorage in the area is and the Canadian Army came in and at Klaskino Anchorage. A large scale Ganges blew up the aircraft with explosives. The chart, Scouler Entrance, is handy for this fact that they were all dead when there exercise as there are a few rocks in the Salt Spring I. was seafood available was something no area. From the anchorage, one can go Sooke one could figure out. Sometime before exploring in a small boat. There used to

Pacific Ocean Race Passage they were found, a troller from Winter be a beautiful waterfall in the creek south Cadboro Bay Harbour saw a person on a raft out in of the anchorage but a few years ago it Brooks Bay and offered to pick him up. was ruined by the ‘smash-and-grab’ Part 5: Heading south He was told to stay away—the fellow did loggers from Mahatta River. They are not want to be rescued! Later on when clear-cutting a lot of the coastal forests When one heads out of Winter Harbour, the plane and bodies were discovered, in this area. Near the waterfall is also a and down past Kains Island, be aware of the fishermen figured that it was a plane substantial ‘hunter’s’ shack. Robson Rock and South Danger Rock as taking an army payroll to Alaska and one Caution is necessary to get out of this shown on the chart. Lawn Point is an in- of the crew high-jacked the money and location. There is a passage to the west teresting spot. Although I have not been was waiting for an accomplice to pick of Morris Rocks. When crossing Brooks ashore there I have flown over it and him up. What a story! Bay, get a GPS reading for Hughes Rock taken pictures. It is well named as it ap- Anyway, I was interested in going and keep clear. The entrance to Klashkish pears to be grass-covered but the grass Anchorage is marked by Donald Islet, they were conspicuous by their absence. were awakened by gunfire. There were which has a light on it, rather hard to Some boats go between the island and different types of automatic weapons be- see but it’s on top of the islet. There are the cape but I think the more prudent ing used. They were afraid to go on the can buoys on the ESE side of McDougal passage is outside of the island. Imagine air to call the Coast Guard. Next morn- Island but for the most spectacular moor- the job of servicing the light and radio ing when they looked around the cor- ing go farther into the inlet and up equipment perched on the top of the ner there was not a sign of anyone nor through the narrow entrance into the island! of any boat. Hijackers of a dope cache? inner basin. There are at least a half Ask Phil about it. dozen buoys there in this land-locked Part 6: Past Solander Island To get to a dandy sandy beach, com- paradise. There are supposed to be a lot plete with a fresh water stream for bath- Check the chart and stay out from the of crabs in this basin near the river ing, take the dinghy and go into the arm rocky shoreline from here to Clerke Point. mouth. One fault with this location, to the west. Figure on the tide doing A GPS waypoint off Clerke Point would which is surrounded by high hills, is that something, like going out and leaving lead you past the shallows at the point. strong winds sometimes come down off your dinghy high and dry! The trail en- The next course is for Jacobson Point as of these hills at night. trance is on the south side of the little just around it, tucked in behind the is- Due to the western exposure to the inlet and is marked by a B.C. Parks sign. land, are mooring buoys. On the way, northwest side of Brooks Peninsula, I You might leave your dinghy on the try trolling past Quineex Reef. It is rec- don’t like to tarry there. A more or less north side going in, due to the shallow- ommended to tie to a mooring buoy if straight course from Donald Islet down ness, and walk the shoreline down op- there is any prospect of westerly gales at between Clerke Islet and the Clerke Reef posite the sign where you can usually get Cape Cook, as the winds come down off leads one down past Hackett Island across on a log. The trail takes about 25 of the mountains right into Columbia which looks like someone did hack it in minutes to walk and comes out on a Cove. On the way into the Cove you will two. In behind Guilliams Island is a nice fantastic stretch of sand. At the western pass a former Coast Guard vessel on the beach with a stream flowing through it. end the stream flows down out of the beach. The bottom on it was getting thin In one of my adventuresome moments I woods. There are all kinds of interesting so the Coast Guard sold it to a west coast landed my seaplane in this creek for a items for beachcombing. I got a hard hat logger who, unfortunately, ran it look around. There was a wrecked fish- from Japan last year! There was even a aground. It is deteriorating over the boat on the beach which I recognised as weather buoy there, which I reported to years. having done some work on. Tofino Radio, but it was there two or This is the spot where Phil Hume and One cannot miss Solander Island. It is three years later so I guess it was not an accompanying boat got quite a scare. off Cape Cook and is a bird sanctuary. worth salvaging. They passed a dive boat on the way in At one time there were hundreds of birds O’Leary Rocks usually have a lot of sea just opposite the wreck. The sullen fel- there. A lot of them would fly out to look lions lying on them. A small boat would low on board did not return their wave. the boat over. When we went by in 1997 be handy to get close. The idea is to get That night after they had retired they around this rocky area and into Battle We walked along the beach and up to leave for Kyuquot, go through Gay Pas- Bay where you can drop the hook and the grassy area, but no camp. There was sage and there is a clear, straight course explore. The most interesting place, to only a motor running off a big drum of down the coastline. Near where you me, is out near the end of Acous Penin- gasoline. It was driving a generator which turn, there are several sea caves. sula. To get there, go ashore near where was powering a radio beacon setup. How Spring Island may be worth a visit but it shows a passage between the main is- weird—not a soul around and this ma- the only thing that wasn’t bulldozed into land and a smaller island to the left. The chine running steadily. No tents, no the water when the Loran station was passage may be flooded at an extremely buildings, nobody. We figured it was a closed is the helicopter pad. To explore high tide but to me, it looks like this rarely temporary radio beacon for some rea- the other nearby islands it is suggested happens. It is rather difficult going as the son. And no coffee! that permission be obtained from the grasses and shrubs have grown over logs There is a small creek coming into natives, across the harbour at Kyuquot. and ditches but it’s really not that bad. Battle Bay from the west. When the tide Getting into Kyuquot is easy when you Anyway, after traversing this passageway, is in it’s a pretty site. This is where the follow the beacons which start at Rolston walk along the beach to the right and natives used to gather for their pot- Island. There is a good government dock around the bay. You will come to a site latches. I read this somewhere. There is at Kyuquot and they even take garbage. out near the end where the Indian vil- a burial island which is interesting in the The store is well stocked and there is a lage once was. Look carefully into the fact that there are the remains of canoes, fuel station and a restaurant. It is to the trees and you should see the only remain- although most have disintegrated. On right from the head of the dock. A trail ing standing pole. Nearby there is an- one there are three skulls, covered with leads along the shoreline in both direc- other pole lying face down. It has been moss. The location of this island is tions and it is a good way to stretch your that way for a long time as a tree is grow- marked IR on the map and is SE of the legs after boating. Kyuquot is the desti- ing on top of it. At the site you can see village site. Take the dinghy to this spot. nation of the UCHUCK THREE from Gold the outlines of where the big dwellings To the north of Skirmish Rocks, where River and there is a B&B above the store were. This walk should not be attempted a creek flows into Battle Bay, is a place for the passengers. if the tide is high as you cannot get along where kayakers are flown in. Max Fitch the shoreline. In that case take the din- and I watched a Beaver fly into and out Part 7: South from Kyuquot ghy and go by sea. of there one afternoon and could not fig- On leaving Kyuquot, one can retrace a Quite awhile ago another fellow and I ure what was going on until we walked course back to the ‘outside’, which is the flew over there and landed in Battle Bay. along the beach. Around the Bunsby Is- safest way, or go behind Rolston Island We had heard about the village site and lands you will see sea otters floating on like the UCHUCK THREE does. Kyuquot wanted to explore it. We walked through their backs. This is where they were in- Sound itself may be entered via Crowther the passageway and could hear a motor troduced a few years ago and they are Channel or farther down the coast via running. “Good,” I said, “there’s a camp spreading out from there. There are vari- Kyuquot Channel. The latter is wide open there and we can get a cup of coffee.” ous anchorages throughout this area. To while the former is a bit tricky at the en- ing Rugged Point. Go close to Grogan Part 8: Esperanza Inlet trance. Inside Kyuquot Sound are many Rock to avoid a shallow spot on the port This inlet runs in from the sea on the interesting spots and it is ‘inside water’ side. The open ocean is reached by turn- north side of the large Nootka Island. I which means it is a lot smoother going. ing out after McQuarrie Islet. have not investigated the Nuchatlitz area The kayakers make use of Fair Harbour The next inlet of interest is Esperanza south of Queen Cove. There is a village to get out to this part of the coast as Inlet. It can be entered two ways. If the site and a float on one of the islets where there is a road connection from Zeballos weather is clear and not too much sea is a native lady made baskets—but she may to this former logging camp townsite. running, go down past Tatchu Point and not be there now. The area is quite shal- People at Kyuquot sometimes get their the foul ground called High Rocks and low and has numerous rocks. Let’s leave supplies via this route. On Hohoae Island turn in when the magnetic reading on this area for another time and proceed there is a protected anchorage in Dixie Peculiar Point is zero. This will take you along Esperanza Inlet. Believe it or not, Cove. For a very well protected anchor- in between High Rocks and Obstruction before the war, two brothers had a thriv- age go to the entrance of Amai Inlet on Reef. Then turn to the starboard to go ing vegetable garden on Center Island the left hand side where there is an un- behind Catala Island through the Roll- and sold their produce to local camps. named four fathom secluded cove. Amai ing Roadstead. The other course, which Further along, we pass the site of Inlet had a gold mining prospect but it is bit longer but a lot less worrisome, is Ehatisaht Village where there once stood did not amount to anything. Cachalot to go to the entrance can bouy and then one of the best carved totem poles on Inlet was the site of an early cannery. turn into Gillam Channel. Go ashore on the west coast. When it fell, it was taken Chamiss Bay is the site of one of the ear- Catala Island at the small peninsula off to Victoria where two copies were made liest logging camps in the area and is still Rolling Roadstead. Nearby are some in- at the museum. One copy was returned operating. teresting caves and beaches to explore. to the tribe, who now live at the head of I usually bypass Kyuquot Sound but Queen Cove makes a good place to over- Espinosa Inlet. The story is that they do anchor at Rugged Point, in the cove night. It is quite protected and reached burnt it up as it was not supposed to be behind the light. From this base one can by going through Birthday Channel. This kept once it had fallen. walk through the woods on a good trail spot at one time had a cannery and part At the end of the inlet we come to two to the outside coast for a walk on sandy of the remains can still be seen on the channels. Zeballos Inlet running north to beaches which extend down as far as left hand side. A swimming lake is nearby the frontier type town of Zeballos. In the Kapoose Creek. Once I found the skel- through the woods at the head of the late l930s this became an instant town eton of an old sailing ship which had bay. An old Roman Catholic church is as rich gold discoveries were made. The been wrecked, but the following year the nearby at the small Indian village on the whole countryside was staked, and a lot ribs and keel were reburied in the shift- right hand side of the entrance. of money made on speculation. The gold ing sands. There are some intriguing off- mines ran out of ore but then a rich iron shore islets which border Clear Passage. ore mine was developed farther up the This is the best passage to take in leav- valley. It too ran out after shipping all Plumper Harbour makes an excellent up later in the day and helps you along. the ore to Japan. Logging took over and spot for a worry-free night. It is very well Get out past the Perez Rocks before al- is now the mainstay of the town. There sheltered though a bit deep. An active tering course to go past the light station. is a source of pie and ice cream at the logging camp is located there. A few carefully placed waypoints on the hotel which is the drawing card for me. I Proceeding south down Cook Chan- GPS will help a lot. You may be close think it is worth a trip there for the am- nel one can go between Saavedra Islands enough to notice that the tower is not a bience, and is not far from our course and Nootka Island. Santa Gertrudis Cove solid cylinder but formed by buttresses around Nootka Island. is favoured by many as as an overnight which are wider at the bottom. This light The other channel is Hecate and it spot but there are rocks to avoid, going station was shelled by a Japanese sub- leads us past Esperanza Mission operated and coming. A stop at Friendly Cove is a marine during the last war, but no dam- by the Shantymen Society. I usually get must. This was Chief Maquinna’s village age was done. This has been denied by my fuel replenished here to help them when Captain Cook was there. Now some people saying that it was an allied out. Sometimes there are coffee and there are only a couple of houses and ship trying to make people realise that muffins available. Just past the mission the Roman Catholic church which has there was a war on. However I have seen we come to Ceepeecee, the site of a stained glass windows sent over from the log of the Japanese submarine in a former cannery and pilchard reduction Spain (in recent times) and inside a lot museum in Eureka, California. The trans- plant. This is where I had my first paying of Indian totem designs. Over on the lation states that Estevan was shelled, a job working as wireless operator and oil ocean side there is a nice walk along the freighter was hit in Juan de Fuca, and a man in 1937. Through the Tahsis Nar- shoreline to a fresh water lake. Of course town in northern California was shelled rows we come to Tahsis Inlet where, at there is the brightly painted Coast Guard before the sub went to the south Pacific, the head, the town of Tahsis is located. Nootka Lightstation which is still active. where it was captured by the U.S. Navy. A pulp plant is the economic engine. There is a lot of sports fishing activity in The native Hesquiat village at the east- Proceeding down the inlet we pass the area. ern end of the peninsula was the ship- Tsowwin Narrows, a constricted point in ping point for Estevan supplies and had the channel which is well marked. Far- Part 9: Around Estevan a plank road running along the shore- ther along we come to Princesa Chan- line to the light station. This consisted of The next ‘hurdle’ is Estevan Point. This nel at the north end of Strange Island. A two sets of parallel planks spaced for the point is located on the Hesquiat penin- large scale chart of this would be helpful vehicle, and it was difficult to navigate. sula as it juts out from Vancouver Island. as there are a couple of rocks which need Supplies had to be brought ashore from On the western side there are a series of to be avoided. Keep close to the north the MAQUINNA or other vessel in a small shallows and rocks which must be of the light and then favour the Strange boat or canoe. Passengers were piggy- avoided. Early morning is a good time Island side of the pass. If there is any backed ashore by the villagers. Nowa- to make this passage unless it is foggy. doubt keep proceeding down Tahsis In- days the supply ship traffic is handled by In the summer the westerly wind comes let to Eliza Passage. I have found that a helicoptor. The village is deserted. At the head of Hesquiat Harbour in Rae transit to Miller Channel. On the the red can buoy before turning to port Basin is where ‘’ lived. She starboard side, farther down, is Matilda into Heynen channel. Don’t be tempted outlived several husbands and had a Inlet, the site of Ahousat (a general store, to steer directly for Tofino, which you can thriving dahlia bulb business, shipping café, and oil station operated Hugh clearly see across the water. Opposite the all across through the post Clarke). The prices in this store are very village of Opitsat you will see a green office she was able to have established reasonable I have found. I believe the beacon. Turn at right angles here and there. Recently there is a move afoot to carved store sign was made by someone follow the marked channel down past refurbish her gardens. from Salt Spring in exchange for a boat the Deadman Islets into Tofino Harbour. Farther to the eastward we come to motor. The large active Indian village of Take care in approaching shore installa- . There are mooring Marktosis is just across the channel. At tions as the tidal flow at times is quite bouys or a float to tie to and a well main- the head of the inlet is located another strong. There are government floats tained board walk to the hot spring. The hot spring. It is contained in a concrete available but for the first night my choice best time to take this twenty minute walk basin about eight by sixteen feet with is Weigh West Marina. The fee is higher is early in the morning or in the evening about four-foot walls. It is lukewarm and but you get the use of showers, washing after the tourists have gone back to a far cry from the Hot Springs Cove machines and dryers. There are excellent Tofino by plane or speed boat. The board spring, and hardly worth visiting. Nearby dining facilities on the premises. You are walk has been rebuilt by B.C. Parks and is the trail to pretty Gibson Marine Park now back in civilisation. many of the cross planks with ships on the south east corner of the island. names on them have been replaced. The trail was in terrible shape several Part 11: years ago so I never attempted it again. To Ucluelet and beyond Part 10: A nice, secure overnight anchorage is in Little Whitepine Cove. Go past Bawden Leave Tofino for Ucluelet via Duffin Pas- Hot Springs to Tofino Point and follow the shoreline down to sage, which is at the west end of town On leaving Hot Springs Cove, check the the inner basin. just pass the government wharf. There chart to avoid a couple of rocks lying off To get to Tofino, proceed down Miller may be a lot of crab trap floats for the Sharp Point, and then proceed north- Channel—which becomes quite shallow. next few miles. I usually follow the ward up Sidney Inlet. Fishing may be It is a great crabbing area and a sharp navigation buoys in Templar Channel but worthwhile just past Sharp Point. Turn lookout is necessary to avoid the numer- according to the chart it’s all fairly to the starboard at Starling Point and ous floats. Follow the markers in Calmus shallow. A GPS point halfway between proceed along Shelter Inlet. This is the Passage to Dunlap Island, then follow the Lennard Island and Frank Island would inside passage to Tofino and it is, to my port hand shore down Maurus Channel. be a good point to steer for, and then mind, more interesting than going We are getting into shallow waters now another waypoint off Gowlland Rocks. farther south by the outside route. so keep a sharp eye on the chart and Then it’s down along the coast past Hayden Pass is well marked for a safe beacons. Proceed past Schindler Point to Wickanninish Bay to the next GPS point at the whistle buoy off Amphitrite Point. distance to showers and east Bamfield. is a marina across the bay at Gordon River Turn into Carolina Channel and carefully This is my choice. but I have not investigated it. follow the buoys into Ucluelet Inlet. There is a certain amount of tidal cur- There are several floats to tie up to but Part 12: The last leg rent in the Strait of Juan De Fuca and it the best, I believe, is the government is best to take advantage of it. Jordon When it is time to leave this area we need boat basin just past Lyche Island. River is the next sign of civilisation but it to consider the distances involved. There When it is time to move on, proceed has no sea access. Sooke Harbour should really are only two places to overnight southeast out of Ucluelet Inlet and into be entered with the help of a large-scale between here and Victoria. The first is Newcombe Channel and then travel chart. There are certain buoys to line up Port Renfrew which provides fair shelter down the east side of Chrow island until with to avoid the sandbanks. There are at the head of the bay. The other is Sooke clear of Sargison Bank shallows. Now set government floats to tie up to. Alterna- which, although quite shallow, is a very a course for the entrance of Thiepval tively, one could anchor just inside the good refuge. Channel in the Broken Group. There are spit at the entrance but then you miss Leave Bamfield early in the morning. many interesting spots in the group the opportunity of eating at Mom’s Café. There usually are a lot of sports fishing which I will not get into here. Proceed This establishment is famous with boat- boats heading out to Cape Beale for the through Thiepval Channel to Wiebe Is- ing people. early bite. Cape Beale has a lot of rocks land and then head for Satellite Pass Departure from Sooke should be timed around it and it is advisable to set a GPS which is across Imperial Eagle Channel. so that you have a favourable tide at Race waypoint out past it so that when it is Pass Wizard Island on either side and Passage. From there, a course can be set reached one can turn to the port and cross Trevor Channel to Bamfield. There for (one of our reciprocal head down the coast line past Seabird are two government floats in Bamfield, clubs), Victoria Harbour, or Cadboro Bay Rocks and Pachena Point. A few miles one on each side of town. The west side (with the Royal Victoria Yacht Club, an- farther down there is a spectacular wa- one gives access to the interesting other of our reciprocal clubs). From terfall at Tsusiat River. A major light sta- boardwalk which runs along the shore there, I think the best way home is tion is Carmanah Point. Get a GPS read- to the store and the coast guard station, through Baynes Channel, Sidney Chan- ing on the buoy at the mouth of Port and, if you feel up to it, a walk to Brideys nel, Moresby Passage, then past Beaver San Juan in case of mist or fog. There are Beach. On the east side are the two oil Point and home. no tie-up facilities in Port Renfrew. The stations, boat supplies, motel, café and wharf is too high and has no floats. The store. At the entrance to the harbour you best anchorage is farther in behind a rock may have noticed another channel on breakwater, formerly a log dump. Anchor the left hand side. This is the entrance to in three or four fathoms taking the tide Port Desire. There are two mooring into account. A good meal may be ob- buoys in there or you may anchor. It is a tained at the hotel near the wharf. There nice anchorage and a road leads a short