out as early as practical. Particularly if you station. The Marina across the bay has a Sailing around have to beat against a strong afternoon doubtful access for sailboats. Sooke has Vancouver Island wind. a fuel outlet and then it is back into civi- By Dick Pattinson, GWAHIR The normal summer weather pattern lisation at Victoria. is to be calm at night, with sea-fog which After leaving Ganges, I usually try to, clears up about ten o’clock followed by at least, get through Dodds Narrows on a westerly which builds up in the late the first day. It takes me 7 or 8 hours afternoon. depending on the tide and the wind. Not Fuel is fairly easy to obtain on the east being a purist, I motor or motor-sail if coast of the island but after that the sta- the wind is not favourable enough to tions are few and far between. After give me four knots or so. This part of the Campbell River or Quathiaski Cove the journey could be broken up with a stay next fuel station would be Blind Chan- at Wallace Island or Pirates Cove. How- nel, then Kelsey Bay, Minstrel Island, La- ever these locations are within easy reach goon Cove, Alert Bay, Port McNeill, of Ganges, and, after all, it is the West Sointula, and Port Hardy. Then there is a Coast that we want to explore. The Part 1: Heading north long stretch up Goletas Channel, past Nanaimo Sailing Club and Schooner Bull Harbour, and around Cape Scott and Cove Club offer reciprocal privileges. Try Interested in sailing around Vancouver down to Winter Harbour to the next fuel and get inside moorage at either of these Island? Well there are certain factors station. That’s a long way. Then it is a places for a good night’s rest. Sometimes which will inhibit actually sailing and long way from there to Kyuquot for the I anchor in Brickyard Bay on the west side make motoring necessary at times. There next fuel supply. After that there is a sta- of the entrance to Nanoose Harbour. The are tides, winds (or lack of), and distances tion in Esperanza Inlet at the Mission, or, next destination is Comox partly because to contend with. There are only a few alternatively, up Zeballos Inlet to the of family ties. If there is a strong north safe places to spend the night, or, per- town of Zeballos. At the head of Tahsis westerly blowing in the Strait it is usu- haps, days if waiting out the weather. It Inlet the town of Tahsis has fuel. From ally better to go up the coast to where is essential for safety to travel to these this area it is necessary to make a long you can turn out above the Ballenas Is- places. Unlike kayaking, where you can run out around Estevan Point to the next lands (to avoid Whiskey Golf) and then go ashore almost anywhere, a sailboat fuel stop at Ahousat. Tofino is not far cut across below to the lower end of must anchor or tie up at a secure spot. from here and then Ucluelet at the other Texada. The westerly winds are usually The total distance is over 700 nautical end of Long Beach, both with fuel sta- weaker on the east side of Texada. From miles when you consider the courses into tions. Bamfield would be the next sup- Comox it is a nice step if you can make and out of anchorages and inlets. De- ply. Fuel could be obtained at Port Ren- it past the Seymour Narrows in a day. It pending on the tide, it is best to start frew by carrying it down from the fuel may be necessary to wait in Quathiaski Cove (or Campbell River) for the tide to Robson Bight. At the head of Port Harvey Part 2: Port Hardy North turn to ebb. Try and get at the entrance there is a a good anchorage. Alternatively Port Hardy is the last chance to replen- to the Narrows at high water slack for a one can turn to starboard at the Broken ish your fuel and other supplies until you good push north. If time is short, anchor Islands and travel via Havannah and arrive at Winter Harbour, at least two or in Plumper Bay (avoid Deep Water Bay) Chatham Channel to Minstrel Island. more days later depending on the or Kanish Bay. At Chatham Point the Check the tide book for the narrows as it weather and your inclination to enjoy better anchorage is across from the light runs quite swiftly and the Channel is nar- poking around. I usually get my supplies behind Turn Island, rather than in the row. You have to line up the beacons at at the grocery store near the Seagate kelpy anchorage at Otter Cove south of each end. Fuel up at Minstrel or alterna- Hotel. They will drive you down to the the light. tively at Lagoon Cove a short distance boat basin with a reasonable purchase. At Chatham Point an alternative course away through the ‘Blow Hole’. From here The boat basin is the place to stay. You is possible by turning to the starboard proceed down Knight Inlet to the old have a choice of the government (mu- and going up Nodales Channel. Indian village site of Mamalilikula on Vil- nicipal) floats or a marina. The latter’s Johnstone Strait may be unsuitable be- lage Island. It is worth a visit. From there floats are quite decrepit but the other cause of the wind and the other route proceed down Canoe Pass out past Dou- floats are usually taken up by fishing ves- offers some respite and also a possible ble Bay and on to Alert Bay. sels. Of course you can tie up alongside overnight at Shoal Harbour in Cardero At Alert Bay there is usually room be- a fishboat without any trouble. The Ma- Channel, or some other spot farther on hind the breakwater. This is the best spot rina does have marine supplies and more where there is a floating restaurant. In to avoid swell from passing vessels dur- important … showers, which you have pursuing this course one comes to ing the night. There are three ‘Super to pay for whether you stay there or not. Mayne Channel where there is a fine res- Markets’ here, restaurants, showers, etc. Fuel supplies can be obtained at the taurant and a store that sells fresh home The tallest totem pole in the world stands marina, or from a barge located at the made bread and buns. This is also called at the head of the Bay near the site of entrance to the boat basin. I use the lat- Blind Channel. On continuing farther the former Community House which was ter. Fishing in the harbour or at the en- through the rapids here and at Welbore destroyed by an arsonist recently. Other trance is sometimes quite good. a nice stop is at Douglas Bay in Forward alternatives to Alert Bay are Port McNeill On leaving Port Hardy one travels up Harbour. From here proceed to Sunder- and Sointula. Goletas Channel. The run to Bull Harbour land Channel which takes you back to Port Hardy is the next destination and is only 24 nautical miles. There is a place Johnstone Strait. Port Neville is a place the last chance for supplies and fuel be- off to the side in Christie Pass called God’s to overnight as well as to view the fore going around the Cape to Winter Pocket where meals are served. It is on petroglyphs at Robbers Nob. Harbour. Hurst Island. A bit farther on, if the From here one can get to Alert Bay in weather should turn bad, one can an- a nice run up Johnstone Strait. Watch for chor in Port Alexander on Nigei Island. the Orcas in this area, particularly around Further along there is an inter- the east of the cape where esting site although there is Cape Scott there is a good anchorage. nothing to see. It is Loquilla N The petroglyph is right at the Cove where one of the early point on a large boulder. explorers came upon a de- There was a report that there serted Indian village where he are several petro-glyphs buried something under a big Vancouver Island around the area but I have tree on the shore. Someone in Winter only seen one. Some travel- the Provincial Museum, read- Harbour lers, to avoid Nahwitti Bar do ing his diary in recent years, go around it by traversing went there and found the ob- through Tatnall Reefs with ject. one eye on the sounder and At the end of Nigei Island, Quatsino the other on the chart, or on Bates Pass flows into Goletas Sound Pacific Ocean the GPS waypoints. Channel. This is the spot to get out your trolling gear and try for a salmon. Up Bates Pass on Scouler Entrance Part 3: Bull Harbour Hope Island is an abandoned Brooks Bull Harbour is located on Indian village. The beach in Bay Hope Island which is an In- front of the village is com- dian Reserve. It was formerly posed of small smooth stones Solander leased by the Department of where the Orcas beach them- Island Klaskish Transport for a marine radio selves to scratch off any un- Cape Cook station which was operated wanted growths they may Brooks Peninsula there for many years. When Acous Peninsula have.