DISCOVERING ABBOTSBURY An Introduction to the Village and some Short Village Walks Prepared by Chris Wade & Peter Evans The Friends of St Nicholas Abbotsbury Time-line 170* Jurassic coast formed million 100 years Chesil Beach created ago 50 Abbotsbury fault occurred, creating the The Friends of St Nicholas Ridgeway to the north of the village 6000 BC* First evidence of hunters / gatherers ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS: around the Fleet We would like to thank The Friends of St Nicholas for financing 500 BC* Iron Age fort built on ridge this booklet, the profits from which will help to maintain 44 AD Roman invasion of Great Britain began – the fabric of the church. We also thank the following for first mill built here photographs/illustrations: 6th C A Chapel built here by Bertulfus? Mrs Francesca Radcliffe 1023 King Canute gave land, including Mr Torben Houlberg Portesham & Abbotsbury, to Orc Mrs Christine Wade 1044 Abbey built Mr Peter Evans Mr Andrew King 14th C Church of St Nicholas, Tithe Barn & Mr Eric Ricketts - St Catherine’s Chapel illustration published by permission The Dovecote Press 1540’s Abbey destroyed (Henry VIII), first Manor House built USEFUL LINKS 1644 Manor House burned down in Civil War www.abbotsbury.co.uk 1672 First non-conformist meeting place Abbotsbury village website, info on businesses including arts, established in Abbotsbury crafts, galleries, tea rooms, restaurants & accommodation. 1765 Second Manor House built overlooking www.abbotsbury.co.uk/friends_of_st_nicholas Chesil Beach Friends of St Nicholas website 1890’s Railway opened – for iron ore mining initially, then tourism www.abbotsbury-tourism.co.uk The Abbotsbury Swannery, Subtropical Gardens and the Tithe 1913 Second Manor House burned down, third Barn (Childrens’ Farm). one built (badly) 1934 Third Manor House demolished www.abbmusic.org.uk Abbotsbury Music, bringing high quality live music and related 1939-46 British & US forces occupy Abbotsbury performing arts to our rural community. 1950 Railway closed www.abbotsburyartweeks.org 2000 World Heritage status awarded to Jurassic Listing and information of artists, craftsmen, galleries and Coast exhibitions taking place in Abbotsbury *= Approximate Dating o o Abbotsbury Village. The fertile valley below the hill fort is 1 An Introduction to sheltered and would have been protected by the fortification, the (By car) the Village villagers being secure in the knowledge that they could always he visitor’s first impression of Abbotsbury is of a retreat to the safety of the hilltop if danger threatened. The hill Tpicturesque, rural village nestled between rolling hills. To fort is certainly worth a stroll around the ramparts. fully appreciate Abbotsbury’s awe-inspiring setting it is best to approach the village from the west. If you have a car (it’s a steep climb on foot!) take the B3157 through the village going towards Bridport and pull off the road into one of the convenient lay-bys at the summit of the hill above Abbotsbury. From this vantage point there is a spectacular panoramic view of the village, the Jurassic coast and surrounding countryside. If you cross over the road from the lay-by and take the little turning on the right marked “Ashley Chase”, the hill fort lies upon the brow of the hill to the left of that lane. We suggest you explore the fortifications leaving your car in the lay-by at the top of Abbotsbury hill as there is extremely limited parking adjacent to the fort. From the top of Abbotsbury hill the vista looking eastwards along the Chesil Bank to the Island of Portland is stunning. Down to your right, behind a screen of trees lie Abbotsbury Sub-Tropical Gardens and just beyond them the Fleet (the stretch of water between the Chesil Bank and the mainland) broadens out in a sheltered lagoon to form The Swannery. As the eye moves inland, the 14th century St. Catherine’s Chapel stands solitary upon a hill that dominates the village, its ancient terraced slopes leading the eye downwards towards the church and village. The range of hills to the north and east of the village is known as the Ridgeway. This line of hills serves to protect Abbotsbury from the worst of the weather. The views from this vantage point are unparalleled. This hill-fort In winter the hills are often shrouded in mists whilst Abbotsbury is unusual in that it is triangular in shape. The two mounds on basks in unseasonable sunshine. The prevailing weather the seaward side were probably lookout points. Excavation of generally comes up from the southwest. Storms approaching the fort has revealed no evidence of attack or siege yet there is from the Atlantic rise over Start Point and deposit their rains evidence to suggest that there was a Roman signal tower here. to the west of Abbotsbury leaving the village unscathed. It is also known that there was a beacon placed here at the time This coastal stretch with its sea breezes rarely suffers from of the Spanish Armada to alert the population in case of invasion prolonged frosts or snow in winter months. “Sub-tropical” may and a new basket was erected as part of the commemorations not be a term that the local people apply to their surroundings for the 200th anniversary of the battle of Trafalgar. when a south-westerly gale blows up from off the beach but The fort was obviously of great importance to the Iron Age the existence of the gardens with their exotic plants and trees population because of its strategic location. At the first sighting nonetheless gives evidence of an unusually temperate climate. of any seaward invasion the news could be passed to the other On Wears Hill, to the northwest of the village and forming the great hill-forts making up the defences of the region, notably western end of the Ridgeway, lies Abbotsbury’s Iron Age Maiden Castle and Eggardon. Looking south-westwards from the hill fort. The existence of these Celtic earthworks suggests fort provides another stunning view, this time over Lyme Bay. the presence of a settlement that later possibly evolved into From this observation point it is claimed that you can see all the 1 way down the coast to Start Point near Dartmouth on a clear day. Drive back to Abbotsbury village. Take care when driving through the village as the width of the street varies considerably because the village was not built with motor traffic in mind. Beware of the high pavements and also be considerate of horse-riders. In the summer months especially the road can get extremely congested as vehicles far too large for our small village attempt to negotiate the narrow streets and restricted bends. 2 St. Nicholas’ Church (Walk – wheelchair access) eave the public car park heading towards the church using Lthe little lane opposite the ticket box and turn left through the kissing-gate (see location on map, page 15) into the churchyard. Wheelchair users should exit the car park further down in the bottom right-hand corner. Pass the buildings on either side then enter the churchyard by the gate on your right and continue around the church to the north side. You are now Follow the main road through the village around the comparatively at St Nicholas’ Church. gradual right hand bend then turn “sharp left” by tearooms. You Looking at the external structure of the church you will see that are now in Rodden Row. The main car park is approximately the general style is Perpendicular – a style that is characteristic 100 metres on your right just before the Swan Inn. Here you of the late 14th-16th centuries. The difference between the aisles can park all day secure in the knowledge that you are neither is very obvious. The north aisle (pictured below) is ornamented obstructing anyone nor running up a huge parking fine! Being in with crenulations like the tower and has pinnacles and gargoyles, a central location, the car park provides the perfect point from which to continue exploring Abbotsbury on foot. whereas the south aisle has no such adornments. The south aisle is recessed slightly, giving the impression that the aisle has been added to an older building. This is further demonstrated by o the situation of the tower, which is also obviously a later addition joined to a more ancient tower buttress. The tower, the present north wall and part of the east wall were most likely to have been built in the 14th century – at about the same time as St Catherine’s Chapel on the hill and the Tithe Barn. It seems the abbot decided to build a church 2 adjoining the monastery church for use by the parishioners – 1638 and restored in 1986. The Strangways coat of arms presumably to keep them away from the monks! The two church (amongst others) are on its south and north side. buildings were probably under one roof span and the filled-in The font is probably original to doorway on the south side of the church could have been where the church but was placed in its the two buildings connected. The fact that the parish church present position by the north is dedicated to St. Nicholas is probably due to the saint’s entrance in 1996. connection with sailors - his saint’s day is 6th December. The pulpit is possibly Tudor but It may have been the unsatisfactory appearance of the original more probably 17th century church that caused Abbot John to alter the whole construction Jacobean and the heraldic arms in the first part of the 16th century. He unroofed the church and under the canopy have been pulled down the south wall but left the north wall, porch and east interpreted as being those of a Mr.