Trip Report June 18-28, 2011 Guides Carol Simon & Howard Topoff, with Seven Participants Report by Wynne Brown (Trinidad) and Carol Simon (Tobago)
Total Page：16
File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb
www.naturalistjourneys.com Trinidad and Tobago Trip Report June 18-28, 2011 Guides Carol Simon & Howard Topoff, with seven participants Report by Wynne Brown (Trinidad) and Carol Simon (Tobago) Saturday, June 18 - Asa Wright It only takes an hour of being present at the Asa Wright Nature Centre to start melting into a mellow tropical torpor. The resplendent green, the flowers, the birds – even just the air seems opulent and decadently rich. Carol, Howard, and Wynne had just left behind the spareness of drought-stricken Arizona where recent wildfire devastation was all too fresh in their minds. Our guide for the week, David Ramlal, met us at the airport in a right-hand drive Nissan van, and drove us up a startlingly narrow steep road to the Centre – on the left side of the road (ah yes, that British empire…). David is married with three kids: two are sons, one in medicine, another in veterinary science who’s getting experience at an agricultural (ag) station we plan to visit, and teaching ag science in a high school. University education is free in Trinidad for those whose grades qualify, and there are many high school programs where kids can get exposure to different fields. David’s daughter, who turned 7 the week he was with us, is fascinated by all the guide work her dad does and is, of his three children, the most likely to follow in his footsteps. David himself started the guiding life when he was 7, working with his well-known father Roodal, and has been a professional guide here for 24 years. It was certain we’d be in capable hands. Late afternoon found the whole group – Carol, Howard, Wynne (who’d all arrived two days earlier), Pattie, Peter, May, Fred, Dianne, and Jim – gathered on the Asa Wright Nature Centre verandah in a happy combination of introductions and reunions. Each individual already knew at least two others in the group, and some knew six of the nine! We wandered around the grounds a little to see Lobster Claw (one of 15 species of Heliconia), Shrimp Plant, Angel Trumpet (a Datura that, like our SW species, can be a hallucinogen), towering bamboo, Impatiens growing tall and wild, and Amaryllis. The pictures of the Centre don’t do it justice. The land here is steep: 47 steps from the cabins we chose to the dining room. Just as well, since the food is based on local cuisine and is simple, plentiful, and good. And birds! The famed Asa Wright verandah is everything promised. Bar www.naturalistjourneys.com 866 • 900 • 1146 [email protected] Trinidad and Tobago June 18-28, 2011 stools lined up, facing an open panorama of rain forest festooned with rising tendrils of mist, platform feeders below with bread and fruit protected by hardware cloth, not-quite-ripe mangos dangling in a tangle of passionfruit vines in the foreground, Port of Spain not quite visible in the distance. The newcomers got a quick introduction to the joy of birding from the verandah with the ever-present Palm Tanagers, a rust-brown female White-lined Tanager, Green and Purple honeycreepers, ubiquitous Bananaquits, Copper-rumped Hummingbirds, White- necked Jacobins, the Agoutis and a Tegu Lizard both scarfing up fallen bread crumbs, sightings of a Channel-billed Toucan winging its way across the distant valley. Carol and Howard gave their first of several presentions today, “An Introduction to Trinidad Natural History,” explaining the geological history of Trinidad and that the island is only 7-12 miles from Venezuela – and may have even been connected with a land bridge as recently as 1,500 years ago. No wonder South American species are so well-represented here, and less so on Tobago, where the last known connection was some 11,000 years ago. The biodiversity of Trinidad is truly astounding: 300 kinds of trees per hectare, 100 kinds of mammals, and 470 species of birds. We also got a preview of some of the wildlife we hope to see, complete with soundtracks of Red Howler Monkeys, Oilbirds, and Chachalacas, and videos of Surinam toadlets emerging from the backs of their moms. And who else but Howard would explain reflectivity in lizards by Photoshop-ing a flashlight to the reptile’s ribs? Armed with knowledge (and the Centre’s famed rum punch), we gathered at a large round mahogany table that belonged to William Beebe, the famous tropical biologist, who established SIMLA, the biological research station just south of the Centre. The station has fallen into sad times, partly due to lack of funds, but more because of four limestone quarries that removed land below it, allowing the station’s own property to collapse. That in turn collapsed the spring that supplied water, which now has to be trucked in. It is now up the the Asa Wright Centre to carry on Beebe’s legacy. Dinner was pumpkin soup, carne asada, crisp green beans with garlic and carrots, stewed lentils, mashed potatoes, salad, and fruit compote for dessert. This is definitely a gung-ho group! In spite of any travel weariness, within 30 minutes, everyone reconvened for a guided night walk, in the rain, with Elsa, one of the Centre’s guides. We met and photographed the female Trinidad Chevron Tarantula that lives in the green pipe supporting the Car Park This Way sign, and saw a Manaku Crab. They’re named for the Trinidadian word for opossum, come out after rain, eat everything, and raise their babies in a pouch. We also saw a harvestman, a whip scorpion, three millipedes, and a roosting bird, the Olivaceous Euphonia (bottom side only!). The hardy souls who braved the downpour also got to see a large Luna moth. Those who ducked the rain early examined a baby Coral Snake, Micrurus circinalis, found by May. Sunday, June 19 - Asa Wright Pattie got the prize for Best Early Morning Sighting for the male Tufted Coquette. We later learned this ridiculous-looking tiny cockaded bird is the smallest of all hummers in Trinidad, which is likely why it’s best seen in early morning before other birds can persecute it. Interestingly, none of the larger hummers attempts to harass the female, which we saw quite often during the day. Other birds new to us included Crested Oropendolas, Southern House Wrens, Great Kiskadees (named for the www.naturalistjourneys.com 866 • 900 • 1146 [email protected] Trinidad and Tobago June 18-28, 2011 French: Qu’est que tu dit? What’d you say?), and lovely dark red Silver-beaked Tanagers. After a breakfast that included omelettes made to order and (for some) smoked herring, we gathered on the verandah with David and set off down the Discovery Trail to learn a smattering of the thousands of plants: Powderpuff – or Mimosa , Sanchezia, Verbena, Trema tree, Jackfruit, a flowering epiphyte, Blackstick, various melastomatids with their distinctive double veination, Wild Tobacco with its adventitious flowers and fruits eaten by tanagers and manakins, Hot Lips, Sealing Wax Palm (named for the scarlet color of the prop roots), White Olivera and Tanapa (both trees valued for their wood), and Wild Nutmeg whose fruits are eaten by tanagers and manakins. We stopped first so that everyone could enjoy the group of Golden-headed Manakins who perched obligingly close, one of our sought-after species famous for its mating displays. Carol even saw one doing its famed “moonwalk.” We then ambled on down the trail to the White-bearded Manakin lek (an area used for courtship displays). We saw no females but enjoyed watching these engaging little black and white male birds hopping about and clapping their wings to make the characteristic SNAP! sound to attract females. The next stop on our ramble was the Bearded Bellbird habitat, and in case we hadn’t realized it already, now we discovered what a gifted guide David is! We could all hear the plucked rubber band-like plonk-plonk calls, but would never have seen the bird itself with its telltale charcoal wattles without David and his trusty green laser pointer. (Guides are careful not to aim the pointer directly at the bird.) As we drifted slowly back to the Main House, May and Wynne fell behind the group as David called in a pair of White- bellied Antbirds, a young male and female, both singing from their hard-to-see vantage point in the brown leaf litter. Before lunch we enjoyed Carol and Howard’s lively “Evolution of Communication” presentation in which the take- home lesson is “You can’t get Something from Nothing.” All animal communication is derived from some sort of individual behaviors: preening, sky-pointing, dancing, wing-snapping – and more – that were useful in some way before they evolved into ritualistic courtship or territorial displays. Next we pursued our own noonday ritual: lunch, including calalloo, (leaves of the tarot plant cooked and blended with garlic and onions), the tarot root, and plantains – as well as vegetarian rice, stewed pigeon peas, calypso macaroni, battered fish, oven-baked barbecue chicken, salad, and sponge cake with sauce. Not surprisingly, it was a very quiet afternoon on the verandah! We gathered again for afternoon tea at 4 p.m., and then piled into two vans to head out to the Apori Ag Station. Walking along the road into the station provided us views of a Gray-Breasted Martins, Wattled Jacanas (which also goes by the local names of Lily Trotter and Jesus Bird), Black Vultures, Ruddy Ground Doves, Tropical Mockingbirds, Southern Lapwings, Tropical Kingbirds, Grassquits (also called Johnny Jumpups although the female doesn’t do the characteristic jumping), White-headed Marsh Tyrants, Pied Water Tyrants, Shiny Cowbirds, Caribe Grackles, Wilson’s Snipes, Yellow-hooded Blackbirds, Red-breasted Blackbirds, Yellow-chinned Spinetails , Palm Tanagers, Great Kiskadees, Smooth-billed Ani,s Yellow Orioles, Cattle Egrets, Striated Herons – and a Spectacled Caiman! www.naturalistjourneys.com 866 • 900 • 1146 [email protected] Trinidad and Tobago June 18-28, 2011 As dusk settled, we had rum punch (of course!) and a picnic supper of rice, lamb, beans, and salad.