GOLDEN TOQUE NEWSLETTER APRIL 2005 Alex Ottman 10162 Hibiscus Drive Communications: Letters, cards, e-mails and phone Orland Park, IL,60462 calls to/from: Phillip Bucci, John Kempf, Bill Lyman, 708-873-0395 Robert Nograd, Tom Hickey, Van Atkins, Willy Rossel, ############# Jim Miller, Alex Ottman, Maurice Zeck, Jan GOLDEN TOQUE INTERNET SITE AT SULLIVAN Verdonkschot, Fritz Sonnenschmidt, Joseph Amendola, UNIVERSITY IS UP AND RUNNING THANKS TO and they all say hello and regards to everyone. TOM HICKEY AND SPUD RHEA. Log on at *************** www.order ofthegoldentoque.com. Remember most CHEF TRAVEL REPORTS: all of the web sites are case sensitive; which means Joe Amendola was visited Las Vegas a few days no Capitol letters all small. TRY THIS SITE YOU ago and he must have about 100 past students of his WILL BE IMPRESSED. here in Vegas as every one asks about Joe Amendola. *************************** We had lunch together and visited, he told me about his NOMINATIONS recent autobiography that he will be signing at the ACF Two Commander Directors to be elected in June Convention. 2005 Submit nominations TO: He is also publishing a book on Chocolate based John Kempf, Chairman-Nominations on his Italian Grandmothers recipes and the orange and 27952 N. Darrell Road, Wauconda, IL, 60084 lemon flavors of that region. Phone: 847-5 26-3466 or He had traveled to Italy and visited his home Fax: 847-526 –9118 town, while there a local artisan (sculptor) ask him if he 2005 NOMINATIONS FOR: could sketch Joe face and profile, some month’s later he BOARD OF DIRECTORS was delivered a 50 pound bronze bust of Joe Amendola TWO NEW BOARD MEMBERS compliments of the artist. MICHAEL MINOR Joe is 85 tears young and hard to keep up with. KARL GUGGENMOS He sends best wishes of everyone. Keep up the good JAMES KOSEC work Joe. ############ Van Atkins returns from a two-month tour in the COOKBOOK UPDATE Far East, working with our military locations and DEAR MEMBERS WE DO HAVE SOME personnel. He also informs me, the real good news is, he COOKBOOKS LEFT FOR YOU TO ORDER. found and purchased a beautiful 1939 Chevrolet Pickup- It is that time of year where our cookbook could be mint condition. used with a wedding gift, graduation gift for the girls Phillip Bucci has just returned from a trip to his or boys graduating from college and high school for area of Italy and visited with his people and of course that (Hope Chest) gift and for friends birthdays. dined on fine wine and cusine. People still eat at home so they need to have some Jan Verdonkschot was visiting his daughter and thing to give them some good recipes. These are friends in Holland and Belgium, enjoing the Dutch beer just a few ideas so add your own and lets get some and of course the Holland gins and fine food. books ordered and increase that scholarship fund. Fritz Sonnenschmidt has been traveling, Barb and I will be waiting for your order keeps us lecturing, wining and dining in Chicago and New York. busy. Thank You Enjoy it all Fritz. Today's prices are for individual shipments ################## $15.00 per cookbook delivered PRICE and for 10 or SAD NEWS: more books shipped at a time is $10.00 per book. It Chef Ernest Louis passed away, after a long is up to you the members of all categories to HELP illness, April 27,2005 in Nashville, TN. His wife Helen, his with this endeavor to support our Scholarship sons and grandchildren, survive him. program. Remember make your checks out to: The Health News: Hon. Order of the Golden Toque, and mail your Let us make sure to keep in communication with all those order to: who are not feeling well- a card, phone call, or letter really Jim and Barbara Kosec helps. Remember— Rudolph Soeder, Mary Colletti, Honorable Order of the Golden Toque Adele Hoffstadt, Romeo Lupinacci, Paul Pantano, we 4333 Parkridge Ave. Trlr.# 45 hope that all our members quick recovery and good Pleasant Hill, Iowa 50327 health. Phone (515) 262-3312 ##################### . ************** ADDRESS CHANGES:
1 1 GOLDEN TOQUE NEWSLETTER APRIL 2005 COMMITTEES AND BOARDS BOARD OF ACCEPTANCE William Lyman, Grand Commander, Chairman John Kempf, Past Grand Commander Stanley Nicas, Past Grand Commander NOTE!! Jean E. Clary, Past Grand Commander All donation checks should be Oliver Sommer, Past Grand Commander DESIGNATED: Dr. Robert Nograd, Grand Commander ex Officio “General Fund or Scholarship Fund” ADVISORY COUNCIL (Art. 15.0) made payable to: William Lyman, Grand Commander "Honorable Order of the Golden Toque" John Kempf, Past Grand Commander and sent to: Stanley Nicas, Past Grand Commander COMMANDER TREASURER Jean E. Clary, Past Grand Commander JAMES MILLER Oliver Sommer, Past Grand Commander 11274 BOBKO BLVD., Dr. Robert Nograd-Grand Commander exOfficio PARMA, OHIO, 44130 Nominating & Elections PHONE: HOME: 440-886-6125 John Kempf - Chairman 847-526-3466 OFFICE: Fax :847-526-9118 Those of you who have been so generous with your Jean Clary, Co-Chairman 702-458-2054 monies, time, effort and support, THANK YOU SO Robert Nograd 954-721-2147 VERY MUCH!! Oliver Sommer 636-947-3795 ******************** Committee for 2005 Meeting New FISCAL YEAR STARTS: MAY 1,2005 Tom Hickey, Chairman 502-459-4967 Thomas Wright Walter(Spud) Rhea, Co-Chair 502-456-6504 L.Edwin Brown Jim Miller 440-886-6125 Orville Middendorf A.R. Sullivan 502-456-6504 Charles Mok Noble Masi Bill Lyman Parliamentarian John Folse Dr. L Edwin Brown 904-471-3863 Anthony Patalano Permanent Records Custodian Joel Tanner James Miller 800-321-7174 Hiroshi Noguchi Education/Scholarship Committee Wolfgang Bierer ` Walter“Spud”Rhea 502-456-6504 John Minitti Van Atkins Richard Tromposch Karl Guggenmos Karl Guggenmos Oliver Sommer Steve Pollack Sargent of Arms Paul Pantano Van Atkins 702-221-0414 Romeo Lupinacci Norman Hart 716-650-0289 Norman Myerow Cookbook Sales Ken Wade Jim & Barbara Kosec 515-262-3312 Manfred Bast Promotions & Public Relations Jesse Barbosa Joel Tanner 616-891-0491 Gaspard Caloz Phillip Bucci 412-561-0359 Thomas Wright Senior Advisory Committee Werner Zefferer Oliver Sommer, Chairman636-947-3795 Phil Bucci Luigi La Valle 513-662-7326 Cora Sinkeldam Amato Ferrero 706-744-0326 John Nicas Willy Rossel 305-901-4147 Stanley Nicas Newsletter Edward Mauti Jean Clary--editor 702-458-2054 Scott Gilbert I.R.S. Non Profit Status, 501(C)(3) John Kempf Bill and Darlene Lyman 770-888-7646 Fritz Sonnenschmidt ################# Tom Hickey Dan Varano
1 2 GOLDEN TOQUE NEWSLETTER APRIL 2005 Barbara Kuck Thank you for selecting the Holiday Inn Airport East Spud Rhea to host the overnight accommodations for your event Jim Kosec scheduled from 25Aug05 to Herman Leis, 28Aug05. Your group rates are valid for booking Vince Alberici from 15Apr05 through1Aug05. Van Atkins You can make room reservations on our web John Lubinski
1 3 GOLDEN TOQUE NEWSLETTER APRIL 2005 Information regarding 1871-1872 Hotel de Luxembourg, Nice, Head Chef Pierre Berard the founder and first Grand Chef winter season. Commander of the Golden Toque. 1872-1878 Return Petit Moulin Rouge, Head His given name was Pierre Jules Berard, he Chef joined the Philanthropique Society in New York, January 1878 (32) Maison Maire, Maison Chevet 8,1925, also won the French Medal for culinary the same ,Palais Royal, Paris. year. He was born in Villeneuve, Loubet, France, May 1879 (33) He divided time between the Cote D' 24,1889. He died on January 29, 1975 in Park Forest, IL. Azure, and Le Faisan D'Ore in Paris. He married Yvonne Les Parry in 1966. In 1941 he moved 1882 (36) Catering Exhibition in Paris. to Washington, D.C. from New York. His brother Louis 1883-1884 Winter season, Grand Hotel, Monte was a Chef for many years in Dallas, Texas. Alsace, Carlo, summer season, Grand National, Lucerne. Lorraine, part of France occupied by Germany after the 1889 (42) Savoy Hotel, London. War of 1870, it became French again after World War I in 1896 (49) Ritz, Paris 1918. 1899 (53) CarIton House, London 1904 (.58) Hamburg - America Line in advisor . 1912 (66) Hamburg - America Line in advisor 1919 (73) Awarded the Legion of Honor Jean, 1924 (78) Made officer of the Legion of Honor How are things going? Just wanted to let you 1935 (89) Died in Monaco. know that this past week I got with Joe Gomez's ########### daughter, with the help of Willy Rossel, and she is The available information about Escoffier sending me a picture of him. He is 93 years old and still tells us only about his successes and good deeds, golfing. possibly he had none other. I personally do not know Also received a letter from Paul Goebel with a anyone alive today who worked with him. I, of donation and he is going to send me a picture soon. He course, heard an assortment of tales and fantasies also stated that he has the Golden Toque flag and is but never paid any attention to same. Not one of the getting a seamstress to fix it up and will bring it to claimants could-back up his story. Louisville. A small biography, written by two chefs, one Have also heard from Brother Herman this week of who worked closely with Escoffier during his days and he stated that he had hoped to make this years at the Carlton, exists. It paints a glowing picture of meeting but will be teaching at Barry University at that his personal and professional qualities, but it tells us time. nothing about his life outside the kitchen. All's well here in Louisville, Little Kimchi says Hi. The books written by Escoffier contained Take care, information important to the culinary profession. He Tom Hickey, Secretary was responsible for many books and periodicals but ############ very little or nothing was written about himself or his GEORGES AUGUSTE ESCOFFIER family. He wrote nothing in his books except what The following statement was made by Cesar Ritz: immediately concerned the kitchen. When Careme M. Escoffier est certainement le premier cuisinier du and Soyer wrote their books, they included not only monde; il depasse de beaucoup tous les autres chefs their recipes, but also their philosophies and their que j'ai rencontres. experience, not only in their business lives, but also M. Escoffier is certainly the best chef in the world; he in their private lives as well. surpasses all the other chefs I have ever met. Searching through culinary books, I found 1846 Born October 28th out that nearly three hundred pages of two of 1859 (Age 13) Started work at the Restaurant Careme's books are filled with his personal Francaise in Nice, and Hotel Belle Vue. reminiscences and experience of working in many 1865 (19) Petit Moulin Rouge,Paris as a Commis countries. Rotisseur. Georges Auguste Escoffier was born on the 1866 (20) Five months with the 28th infantry 28th of October 1846, at Villeneuve, near Antibes on regiment; return to the Moulin Rouge. the French Mediterranean Coast. His father was 1870 (24) Promoted Chef Saucier at Moulin Rouge. known to be a good natured and hard working man Head Chef, Rhine Army Hdqtrs. Metz. and. earned his money as a blacksmith and tobacco 1871 (25) Head Chef, 17th Regiment, Colonel planter. He was a popular fellow around town. He Comte de Waldner. raised his son in a home filled with love and happiness.
1 4 GOLDEN TOQUE NEWSLETTER APRIL 2005 Escoffier attended. school until he was thirteen. 2. Reverend Adolph Friz, Sr. In our men's bible While attending school, he had an aptitude for drawing class at Grace Church in Milwaukee, he taught us and local scenery was one of his favorite subjects. Both about basic Christian Faith. He taught us about his mother and grandmother were gentle, graceful and it ecumenicity. At a time when some people did not seems that it was the source of his own character. walk on the same side of the street where Catholics The family realized his talent for art and him to live, he taught us that our God was a God for all as become apprenticed to a trade at which he could earn an long as we worshipped Him, it did not matter if our honest income. So at age 13 his father took him to Nice, procedures differ from one another. where his brother had opened. Le Restaurant Francais, 3. Mr. Crusius. My Sunday School Teacher which had been achieving some success. The restaurant was just a simple house painter who showed up had a reputation for very good cooking. It was here that every Sunday to bring the word of the Lord to a Escoffier started his apprenticeship, no special favors bunch of us "hoodlums" who had a hard time sitting because he was related, any and all work was performed. still for that hour. He was found to be an obedient and willing apprentice, 4. Mr. Val Hendrichs. He was our Sunday eager to learn not only cooking, but all other jobs School Superintendent for over thirty years and connected with restaurant keeping, so some day he barley missed a Sunday. He always had a kind word would be able to run his own establishment. for us. Because of his ability to select and buy restaurant 5. Mr. Powers. Our Scout Master for Troop supplies, he got a job at the Hotel Belle Vue at Nice 143 was also a simple laborer and showed up every where he worked until he was nineteen, always waiting week dressed in his Scout Uniform and gave to us for the opportunity to go to Paris. He had already unselfishly of his time. He taught us how to be determined that if he wanted to reach the top of his- honorable citizens. profession he would have to be trained. 'by those who 6. Miss Conners. A Teacher at Ben Franklin worked at the best restaurants. Finally in January 1865 School, Miss Conners taught eighth grade and the his chance came, when he was accepted at the Hotel of word was that she was "tough". Another Eighth M. Bardoux, the owner of the Petit Moulin Rouge in Paris. Grade Teacher was Miss Leulch, who was said to be (submitted by Jan Verdonkschot and will be much easier on the kids, so we all hoped we would continued next month) get Miss Leulchwhen we got to the eighth grade. As ************************************* luck would have it, I had Miss Conners already for Herman Leis - Self Made Man??? seventh grade. To my surprise, I got along better About a week before Thanksgiving Day 2001, I with her than any other previous teacher and got the heard someone on the T. V. tell about someone he knew best grades in all of my time in school while in her was a "Self Made Man". I thought about this for awhile class. She was firm, but fair, and took personal and asked myself, what is a "Self Made Man?" I certainly interest in guys like me that did not like school and am not a "Self Made Man", even though I took over three did not do very well at it. restaurants that were failing and made them profitable. 7. Mr. Thrush. He was a customer at my Without the help of many people in my lifetime I would not father's Grocery and Meat Store in the A.O. Smith have been able to accomplish what I did in my lifetime. Area of Milwaukee, and the manager of Universal Being so close to Thanksgiving, a day when we Atlas Cement Company down in the Valley. He should thank the Lord for all his blessings, I thought I called me one day and asked if I would be interested should also be thankful for all the people that have helped in selling meat and groceries to the shipping captain me in many different ways. A list of these folks follows, that brought the cement to him. The captain had told those I could think of, as I am sure there were many more him that they were unhappy with the meat and that just don't come to mind at this time. grocery supplies they were getting from the ship 1. My Father. John Leis, even though I felt that Chandlers on the Great Lakes. I went down to meet my father was more strict with me than he needed to be, the captain and from that day on I was his supplier. he taught me many good things such as: to be on time, to He said later on that the meat and groceries were always wear a smile when greeting customers, keep your better than any they had ever had and saved their word, be honest, look clean, wear a suit and tie to church, orders for me. At a time when we were paying our treat the sales people that call on you with respect, and in butcher twenty-eight dollars a week in the year 1938, business don't try to see how much you can get for your I made between one hundred and fifty to two produce but sell it as reasonable as you can. I could not hundred dollars on each of the ship's orders. We have been successful in business without learning the supplied him until we sold our store in the year 1943, previously mentioned lessons from my dad. at which time I joined that same ship as a Second
1 5 GOLDEN TOQUE NEWSLETTER APRIL 2005 Cook and later was promoted to Chief Cook, I stayed with any more than 15 thousand (which 1 thought was that ship until the war ended. ridiculous). Joe put out his hand and said, "Sold". I 8. Mr. Noehre. Mr. Noehre had a sausage factory think I could have bought it for 5 thousand, as Joe and retail shop on the South Side of Milwaukee, and we had instructions "to sell it to Herman so he will run it bought our sausage from him. When I took over my like the Cafeteria at Phoenix Hosiery". The packers father's Butcher Shop, at eighteen years of age, after six like to have a good restaurant at the Stockyards for months at M. A. T. C. S. Meat Cutting Course. Mr. the Livestock Truckers to eat in, that way they might Noehre came to our shop one day and showed me how rather bring their stock to Milwaukee instead of other to line up the counter and gave me many tips to help me stockyards. I had not even told my wife, Gladys, that become a better butcher. He also showed me how to I was going to the Stockyards and when I came make pork sausage by using up the ends of certain pork home and told her that I bought the cafeteria, she cuts that did not sell well, while they were still fresh. He nearly fainted, but it all turned out well, I ran both said the rest of the sausages I could buy from him. Later I restaurants for two years, then Phoenix had some became quite well known for my fresh pork sausage, insurmountable problems with the knitters union. even selling it to a good downtown restaurant. I also They packed up their machines and went down to dated his daughter for awhile. She was a real nice gal North Carolina where there were no unions at that and 1 liked her a lot, but she was too rich for my blood, as time, and I was out of business there. I still had the they say. She wanted to go downtown every Saturday Stockyards, which turned out in later years to be a Night to the Canary Club, where they had an on going bonanza. We would eventually have over 350 contest to see who would drink the most Singapore Slings people for lunch with only 197 seats, in a month. At three dollars a throw, I was making twenty- 10. Mammoth Spring Canning Company. In eight dollars a week, and she always wanted two a night. 1950, I also bought the "Dairy Lunch So you can we why this romance did not last long. Cafeteria" at the Wisconsin State Fair Park, a great 9. Joe Fleishman. Joe was a meat salesman for big barn with 650 seats. I worked out Plankingon Packing Company who called on us at our a deal with Mammoth Springs to take their "dented" Butcher Shop for some twenty years. When I wanted to cans with a little dent in them, but just as good as buy the cafeteria in the plant at the Phoenix Hosiery their regular ones. For three dollars a case of six #10 Company right after the war, meat was no longer rationed tins, we used 25 to 30 cases in the ten day period at but it was still hard to get and I did not have a meat state fair every year. What a savings that was. We supplier. So I called Joe and asked if he had some ran the Dairy Lunch Cafeteria during Fair week for customers that had more meat then they needed and seventeen years until the building was would like to take on a new customer. He asked me to condemned and we had to quit. It was a great deal come to Plankington one day to meet the new Sales while it lasted. Manager, Mr. Six. Joe told him that we had been good 11. Miller Brewing Company. Quite a few of the Plankington customers for twenty years and that I wanted Miller employees came down to the Stock Yards to buy a restaurant but didn't have a meat supplier. Mr. Cafeteria usually on Tuesday when we had prime rib Six asked Joe what he had in mind, and Joe said that and also some other days. They knew that I wanted they had over sized hams, pork loins, and similar things to have a place at the State Fair, which was almost that I could use if he could sell them to me. Mr. Six said, impossible to get, seems that they passed the lunch 'WellJoe, you know that we appreciate a faithful stands down from one generation to another. They customer. I think it will be ok." When we left, Joe said, told me about a fellow that had a filler Beer stand "Buy that cafeteria, you will get all the meat you want." I and food too, but they closed him up because he did buy those oversized items and all the rest of my meat was too close to the cow barns. I went to see the as well from him. I was the first restaurant to buy directly manager at The State Fair Park and asked him from a packinghouse in the city of Milwaukee. Five years about the spot that Moran and Mack had. He said if I later, Joe said to me that Plankington wanted to sell The could get the Milwaukee City Health Department to Stockyards Restaurant that they were operating at the give me a permit then they would rent that spot to time, and he wanted me to look at it and would like me to me. So, I went down to City Hall and told the Head buy it and run it like I did the cafeteria at Phoenix Hosiery. Inspector that I wanted to have a Miller Tent Stand I went over to look at it as a favor to Mr. Six, but had no where Moran and Mack were last year, He said oh plans to buy another restaurant. Joe said he only wanted no, we closed him up last year because that place 20 thousand for the whole deal, 197 seats, complete is too close to the cattle barn. I said I would put up a kitchen and all, which was a great price. The equipment facility that you will be proud of, if you don't find it was quite old but clean as a whistle and in good shape, acceptable, I won't open up. He said, Herm, you well, to get off the hook, I said to Joe, "I wouldn't give you couldn't afford that. I said I know it. He said you are
1 6 GOLDEN TOQUE NEWSLETTER APRIL 2005 putting me on the spot. I said I want to, remember President of Les Disciples d'Escoffier. President whenever you had a new man you brought him down to Guillon then inducted seven new members into the the Stockyards Cafeteria and told him that if all Disciples restaurants were as clean as the Stockyards, they d'Escoffier, Jim Calzante, Bert Cutino, Fritz wouldn't have a job. I pressured him into giving me a Gitschner, Donald Smith, Dr. WilliamDeWitt and Bill permit and we had a Miller Beer and Lunch Stand there Schutz. I would like to thank Michel Bouit, for two years. I built a screened in kitchen with screen Ambassador of the Les Amis d'Escoffier Society of panels all around and on top and passed the food Chicago and Liz Birgen of MBI for all of their hard (sandwiches on homemade bread from the Stockyards) work, making this trip so successful. Also, a special through a pass through little slot. We also served thank you to Joe Aiello our Secretary for all his breakfast for the farmers. After two years, Miller said they support. wanted to run their own Respectfully Submitted, Miller Stand, like Pabst and Schlitz were doing, and they John Kauftnann, CEC, CFE, AAC, Chairman wanted me to cater the food. ############ I was reluctant to do that, as it took so long for me to find Member Chefs if you want news about what is a spot at the fair. They said if I happening in your world, an attempt by you will didn't make as much money catering them, they would have to made to send some information to be pay me the difference. Well, I did it. They wanted whole published. roasted rounds of beef like we had every Thursday at the THANKS Stockyards and a chef carving it for sandwiches, Well, to by jean e. clary make the story shorter, I made more money catering for them than I did the year before in the tent. I roasted fourteen. whole rounds for them and with the au jus and the bread, I did real well. The next year, Miller had a new sales manager and he wanted to do the food service himself. He bought sliced beef from a caterer and had some girls make sandwiches from that. There was a crowd on the first day looking for the hand carved beef like the year before and after that, no more lines. That was the year that I was able to get the big Dairy Lunch Cafeteria, so all turned out well. (To be continued next month) ###############
Chairman John Kaufmann CEC, CFE, AAC Les Amis d'Escoffier Society of Chicago
Dinner at Paul Bocuse Restaurant in Lyon For the second time in five years the Les Amis d'Escoffier Society of Chicago has traveled to France to host a dinner honoring the Great Chef August Escoffier. Our first historic dinner was held in 2002 in the magnificent Hotel Hermitage in Monte Carlo. This time the elite group traveled to Lyon, one of great cities of Europe. Lyon was founded by the Romans and has a visible history spanning 2000 years, a Renaissance Old Quarter rivaled only by Venice. Our Diner d' Hiver was prepared by world famous Chef Paul Bocuse at his three star Michelin Restaurant. It was a dinner one only dreams of, with the high light coming when I inducted Chef Bocuse as an honorary member of our Society. Also, that night we inducted our new Member Elizabeth Bergin, Vice President of MBI and presented the Lou Kysela Award to Jean-Claude Suillon,
1 7