Jobsite Conditions

Global Direct Flooring Engineered Flooring Products can be installed over most subfloors, and are engineered to be dimensionally stable, making them suitable for installation over all grade levels. See all information and installation guidelines below.

ATTENTION – INSTALLER/OWNER RESPONSIBILITY STRUCTURALLY SOUND- Nail or screw any areas that are loose or squeak. Wood panels should exhibit and adequate Wood is a natural product containing natural characteristics in color, fastening pattern, glued/screwed or nailed as system requires tone and graining. Slight variation in color is to be expected in a using an acceptable nailing pattern. Typical: 6” (15cm) along natural wood floor. Manufacturer cannot guarantee against natural bearing edges and 12” (30cm) along intermediate supports. Flatten variation in each plank. The owner/installer assumes all responsibility edge swell as necessary. Replace any water damaged, swollen or for final inspection of product quality. Warranties DO NOT cover delaminated subflooring or underlayments. materials with visible defects once they are installed. Light weight concrete JOBSITE CONDITIONS Wood flooring does not need to be acclimated to the job site unless the Light weight concrete has a dry density of 100 pounds or less per cubic flooring will be transported from one extreme temperature into another. foot is not suitable for engineered wood floors. Many products have If there is a severe temperature difference, make sure to condition the been developed as self-leveling toppings or floor underlayments. These cartons of wood flooring, and recommended solvent base or urethane include cellular concrete, resin-reinforced cementitious underlayments, base adhesive, NOT a water based glue, if being used, 24 hours before and gypsum-based materials. Although some of these products may the installation. have the necessary qualifications of underlayment for wood flooring Adhesive has a minimum working temperature of 65°F. Never use installations, others do not. adhesive below this requirement. Open time for adhesive is affected by temperature and humidity. As a general rule, the higher the temperature To test for lightweight concrete, scrape a coin or key across the surface and humidity, the shorter the open time. Please refer to the latest of the subfloor. If the surface powders easily or has a dry density of l00 Professional Installation Guide for more information. pounds or less per cubic foot, do not install this Engineered Wood floor.

WARNING! DO NOT SAND, DRY SWEEP, DRY SCRAPE, Concrete sub-floors must be dry, smooth (level with 3/16 “in a 10 foot. DRILL, SAW BEADBLAST OR MECHANICALLY CHIP OR Radius – 1/8 “in 6 ‘) and free of structural defects. Hand scrape or sand PULVERIZE EXISTING RESILIENT FLOORING, BACKING, with a 20 grit #3-1/2 open face paper to remove loose, flaky concrete. LINING FELT, ASPHALTIC “CUTBACK” ADHESIVES OR Grind high spots in concrete and fill low spots with a Portland based OTHER ADHESIVE. leveling compound (min. 3,000 p.s.i.) Concrete must be free of paint, oil, existing adhesives, wax grease, dirt and curing compounds. These SUB-FLOOR PREPARATION AND RECOMMENDATIONS may be removed chemically or mechanically, but do not use solvent- All subfloors must be installed as recommended by their based strippers under any circumstances. The use of residual solvents manufacturers. Warranties offered by CCA Floors do not cover can prohibit the satisfactory bond of flooring adhesives. It is important problems caused by inadequate or their improper installation. to ensure a proper bond between the adhesive and the concrete, and CLEAN-Subfloor must be free of wax, paint, oil, sealers, adhesives, planks or strips. This engineered hardwood flooring may be installed and other debris. on-grade, above grade, as well as below grade where moisture LEVEL/FLAT-Within 3/16” in 10’ (5mm in 3m) and /or 1/8” in 6’ conditions do not exist. (3mm in 2m). Sand high areas or joints. If the floor is to be glued down, fill low areas with a latex additive cementitious leveling To ensure a long lasting bond, make sure that the perimeter of the compound of 3, 000-PSI (20000 kPa) minimum compressive strength, foundation has adequate drainage and vapor barrier. underlayment and embossing leveler with S-195 latex underlayment additive. Follow the instructions of the leveling compound Wood sub-floors manufacturer but make certain that the leveling compounds are completely dry before beginning installation. When mechanically All wood subfloors must be structurally sound, dry, at least 3/4” in fastening the floor down, flatten low spots with layers of 15# builders thickness, solidly fastened to appropriately spaced floor joists, and in felt, plywood or shims (not leveling compounds). Leveling materials compliance with all local building codes. For detailed information regarding each different kind of subfloor, refer to the latest Professional must provide a structurally sound subfloor that does not affect Installation Guide. the holding power of the fastener. First, make sure subfloor is dry. Subfloor wood moisture content cannot exceed 14% prior to installation of a glue-down or floating Concrete Sub-Floors floor. To determine wood moisture content use a quality moisture New concrete slabs require a minimum of 60 days drying time meter. Next, determine if subfloor is structurally sound.

DRY- Check moisture content of the subfloor with the appropriate moisture test. Sub-floors other than wood or concrete Note: Perimeter glued resilient vinyl and rubber tiles are unacceptable underlayments and must be removed. installed with ends butted together and taped with a clear 2” packaging Terrazzo, tile and any other hard surfaces that are dry, structurally tape to prevent any moisture from coming up through the seams. The 3 sound and level, as described above, are suitable as a sub-floor for this in 1underlayment or 6 mil. poly film should be lapped up the wall 4” engineered hardwood flooring installation. As above, the surface must all the way around the room. This can be trimmed off after moldings be sound, tight and free of paint, oil, existing adhesives, wax, grease are installed. If you are using the 3in1 Underlayment, you are ready to and dirt. Terrazzo and ceramic tile must be scuffed to assure adhesion. begin the installation. However, if you have used the 6 mil. poly film, roll out on top of the 6 mil poly film a 1/8” thick closed cell foam WARNING! Do not sand existing resilient tile, sheet flooring, backing, butting the edges but not overlapping or felt linings. These products may contain asbestos fibers that are not readily identifiable. Inhalation of asbestos dust can cause asbestosis or RADIANT HEAT SUBFLOORS: Follow the below grade other serious bodily harm. Check with local, state and federal laws for instructions(above) for underlayment requirements and installation handling hazardous material before attempting the removal of these instructions. Most radiant heat installtions call for the requiremetns floors. below when installing over radiant heat systems. Always refer to the manufacturer of the randiant heatign system for detailed instraution. Radiant Heated Sub-floors  The maximum temperature of subfloor under normal use should Before installing over a radiant-heated floor turn off heat and wait until not exceed 80o F. (Check with heat system manufacturer). the floor has reached room temperature. After installing the floor return  For correct water temperature inside heating pipes, check with the heat to the previous setting. manufacturer’s suggested guidelines.

o  Heating pipes must be covered with 1 1/4” of concrete or Caution: The slab surface must never exceed 85 F. in temperature. minimum 1/8” below bottom side of plywood subfloor. In addition, for plywood subfloor, heat transfer plates or insulation PREPARATION boards must be under pipes.  Before installation of hardwood flooring, heat systems must be Remove all moldings and wall-base and undercut all door casings with operated at normal living temperature for a minimum of 14 days. a hand or power jam saw using a scrap piece of flooring as a guide.  One or two days before flooring is laid, switch off heating unit. At the time of installation, subfloor must be 64o - 68o F. “ Racking the Floor”  The heating system can be restarted one week after installation.Gradually increase the heat as needed over the next 3 Whether you choose to install the floor with glue, nails, or staples start to 4 days not to exceed the maximum of 80o F. by using random length planks from the carton or by cutting four to  Room temperature should not vary more than 15o F from season to five planks in random lengths, differing by at least 6". As you continue season. 35 - 55% humidity in home for radiant heated rooms. working across the floor be sure to maintain the 6" minimum between  Use floating floor installation only. Do not use the glue down end joints on all adjacent rows. Never waste material; use the left over installation method on radiant heat flooring . pieces from the fill cuts to start the next row or to complete a row.  The radiant heat system must not exceed 8 watts per sq.ft. heating Note: When installing a pre-finished wood floor be sure to blend the capacity. wood from several cartons to ensure a good grain and shading mixture through out the installation. IMPORTANT: DO NOT INSTALL CABINETS OR WALLS ON TOP OF THE FLOORING WHEN USING THE FLOATING FLOOR INSTALLATION FLOATING INSTALLTION METHOD. (FOR 5” ENGINEERED ONLY)  3/8” or 1/2” spacers against the wall to ensure the proper REQUIRED TOOLS AND ACCESSORIES expansion space. * Tape Measure * Moisture Meter (wood & concrete)  Draw a line along the row moving down the wall. The resulting * Mallet (light colored) * Circular or Hand Saw line gives the proper width for the last row which, when cut, can * Miter or Table Saw * Pry Bar then be wedged into place using the pull bar. * Drill with 1/16” bit * Tapping Block Note: Floor should remain free of foot traffic for a minimum of 12 * Chalk Line and Chalk * Hammer hours while adhesive sets. * Safety Equipment (Goggles & Mask) * Utility Knife * 3/8 “or ½” Spacers  Use floating floor installation only. Do not use the glue down *Tongue and Groove Flooring Adhesive installation method on radiant heat flooring . * Broom * Hardwood Flooring Cleaner  The radiant heat system must not exceed 8 watts per sq.ft. heating capacity. APPROVED SUBFOOR: All subfloors should be covered with either a 3 in 1 Underlayment or an approved 1/8” thick closed cell foam JOBSITE PREPARATION underlayment. When using a 1/8” thickclosed cell foam underlayment 1. Undercut door casings over a concrete subfloor, you must also use a 6 or 8 mil. polyethylene film which acts as a vapor barrier 2. Remove any existing wall base, shoe molding, quarter round or doorway threshold. BELOW GRADE: All engineered products when installed using the floating installation method, can be installed below grade. However the IMPORTANT: DO NOT INSTALL CABINETS OR WALLS following instructions must be followed. ON TOP OF THE FLOORING WHEN USING THE FLOATING INSTALLTION METHOD. The concrete slab should be sealed or painted with a good concrete sealer. Then the 3 in1 Underlayment or the 6 mil. poly film should be Step 1: POSITION THE FIRST ROW the board has been tapped into place check for a tight fit on sides and Important: The flooring should be installed from several cartons at the ends. To install the rest of the flooring, continue placing the boards same time to insure proper color, grain, and shade mix. from left to right, plank by plank, and row by row.

1. Before starting, first measure the width of the room, and then divide Note: When installing around fixed objects, small areas or even in the room’s width by the width of the plank. If this means that the last general installation areas, the use of installation straps may prove row of planks will be narrower than 2”, then you will need to cut the helpful for securing boards together. Installation Straps are a handy tool first row of planks to make it narrower. Cut in such a way that both that will insure a tight fit when used to strap each continuous row of rows of planks (the first and last to be installed in the room) will have installation. the same approximate width for an overall continuous look. See installing the last row. Step 4: INSTALLING THE LAST ROW

Note: To cut the boards, always saw with the teeth cutting down into Most often the entire length of the last row will need to be cut so that it the face or top of the board. Cutting from the top down helps protect is narrow enough to fit the remaining space. When this occurs, follow the surface. this simple procedure:  Lay a row of boards, unglued, with the tongue toward the wall, 2. Begin the installation of the planks in the left hand corner of the directly on top of the last row installed. room with the long direction parallel to the incoming sunlight source or  Take a full width scrap piece of the product that is being installed to the longest wall of the room (if this is possible). Be sure to install the with the face down and the tongue side against the wall. Use 3/8” first row of boards with the groove side facing the wall. Use 3/8” or or 1/2” spacers against the wall to ensure the proper expansion 1/2” expansion spacers (depending on the thickness of the flooring) to space. provide a gap for the seasonal expansion of the flooring along the walls  Draw a line along the row moving down the wall. The resulting of the entire room. Always place expansion spacers against the wall line gives the proper width for the last row which, when cut, can where the two boards meet. This will make maintaining a good square then be wedged into place using the pull bar. easier. Note: Floor should remain free of foot traffic for a minimum of 12 Note: Larger rooms require additional expansion space. Add 1/16” to hours while adhesive sets. the width of the spacers for every 3’ the room extends beyond 25’. Dimensions exceeding 40’ require the use of a T-Molding for Step 5: FINISHING THE FLOOR expansion.  A drying time of 24 hours is recommended before any damp 3. If the starting wall is out of square, it will be necessary to scribe the mopping, cleaning or heavy objects or furniture can be put back first row to match the wall, allowing the opposite side of the row to into place. present a true square base for the rest of the floor. When the first row is  The use of putty to cover small cracks or face nails holes should complete, you must have a straight, even base established. be considered normal in hardwood flooring installations.  Make sure when the installation is complete that the expansion Step 2: GLUING THE BOARDS TOGETHER spacers are removed and the expansion space is covered with the appropriate molding such as, base board and ¼ round or Shoe molding. Do not nail moldings into the floor but nail into the wall. When installing the products which have been approved for the floating  Vacuum the floor thoroughly using the soft brush attachment or installation method, the boards must be side and end glued using dust mop to remove any dirt and debris. Tongue & Groove Adhesive.  Use a quality Hardwood Flooring cleaner to finish the floor. Always apply the adhesive into the bottom of the groove on each board. Do not fill the groove. Apply a continuous bead , filling the GLUE DOWN INSTALLATION GUIDELINES bottom of the groove no more than halfway full. Start & stop adhesive 2” from the ends on the long side of the board and 1” from the ends on There are two ways to install when using the adhesive (wet lay the butt end. meaning to lay directly into wet adhesive and dry-lay method meaning to allow the adhesive to flash or to tack up.) Note: If any excess adhesive squeezes up to the finished surface, wipe it off immediately using a water dampened cloth or Adhesive Remover. Caution: Whether you choose to install using the dry or wet method Then dry the surface and buff with a dry cloth. If the adhesive has follow all guidelines set by the adhesive manufacturer. . By not dried, use a soft white cloth moistened with Adhesive Remover. Do not adhering to the guidelines you can void your flooring warranties abrade the wood surface. Step 1 – (Wet Lay Method) Step 3: INSTALLING THE REST OF THE FLOOR Select a starter wall. It is recommended to start the installation along Note: Always stagger 18” between end joints of adjacent board rows. an exterior wall; it's more likely to be straight and square with the The end joints should not repeat visually across the installed floor. room. Measure out from the wall the width of two planks and mark After installing the first row of boards, apply the adhesive to the first each end of the room and snap your chalk line. board on the second row using the above gluing instructions. Connect that board to the first row making sure that there is at least an 18” stagger between the end joint of the board on the first row. Tap the Step 2 boards together with a a hammer and a tapping block. Be sure that the tapping block is against the tongue only and use only a gentle tapping Spread the adhesive from the chalk line to the starter wall using the motion to tap the boards together. Excessive force will damage the recommended trowel (3/16" x 1/4" x 1/2" v notch). It is important to board making it difficult to install additional boards. Do not tap on the use the correct trowel at a 45% angle to get the proper spread of groove side of the boards as this will cause damage to the boards. Once adhesive applied to the sub-floor, which Figure 7 will produce a proper and permanent bond. Improper bonding can the wall may need cutting to fit, due to irregularities along the wall. cause loose or hollow spots. When using the manufacturer’s adhesive it is not necessary to roll the floor. Note: Change the trowel every 2000 to 3000 square feet due to wear down of the notches. This assures you always get the proper spread of Clean Up adhesive. Use Flooring Adhesive Towels to clean as you go, along with a wood Step 3 flooring cleaner. Both are easy and convenient to use. Adhesive that Install the first row of starter planks with the tongue facing the starter has cured on the surface of the flooring can be difficult to remove and wall and secure into position. Alignment is critical and can will require the use of a Urethane Remover. This product has been be achieved by securing a straight edge along the chalk line (2’x 4's recommended by the adhesive manufacturer and is safe for the finish of work well), or by top nailing the first row with finishing nails (wood your pre-finished wood floor. Once the floor is completed clean the sub-floor), or sprig/pin nails (concrete sub-floor). This prevents flooring with a quality wood floor cleaner. slippage of the planks that can cause misalignment. Light foot traffic is allowed after 12 hours but wait 24 hours after Note: The planks along the wall may have to be cut to fit since most installation to remove the 3M blue masking tape. Once the tape is walls are not straight, and leaving an expansion space is not necessary removed clean any adhesive residue left from the tape with Adhesive with these engineered planks and strips. Towels.

Step 4 STAPLE OR NAIL DOWN INSTALLATIONS

Once the starter rows are secure spread 2-1/2 to 3 feet of adhesive the These Engineered hardwood floors may be installed over wood sub- length of the room. (Never lay more adhesive than can be covered in floors using staples or nailing cleats. approximately 2 hrs.) When installing these engineered wood planks or strips by nailing or .Place tongue into groove of plank or strips and press firmly stapling, it is necessary to use the proper type of flooring stapler or into adhesive never slide planks or strips through adhesive. Use nailer made for these Engineered Wood Floors. a tapping block to fit planks snug together at side and butt- ends. Recommended Staplers and Nailers

Test for proper bond by occasionally lifting a board and looking for We have tested and recommend the Bostitch Floor Runner (S3297- good coverage (90%), and then replace it into the adhesive. LHFZ). The recommended staple for the Bostitch Floor Runner is their 1” staple (SB97-1G). We have tested and recommend the Power Nailer Clean any adhesive off the surface before it cures using the – #200 and #250 nailer using a 1”, 1-1/4”or 1½” power cleat. You must manufacturer’s Adhesive Towels. use the 3/8” or ½” adapter as appropriate.

Use 3M Blue Mask Tape (or similar) to hold planks securely in place as Caution: We have tested the above-recommended tools. Other you are installing and continue the process through out the installation. staplers, staples, nailers and cleats may work as well however, since Use caution when using a rubber mallet to butt material together, it can they are not currently recommended if their use damages or fails to burn the finish and cause marring. properly secure the flooring the responsibility is the installers and not the manufacturer.

Note: Never work on top of the flooring when installing with the wet Step 1 lay method You must staple or nail 1” – 2” from the ends and every 4” – 6” along the edges. This will help insure a satisfactory installation. It is Step 1 – (Dry Lay Method) best to set the compressor PSI at 80 - 85lbs. to keep the staples from going through or breaking the tongues. Improper stapling techniques Start by selecting your starter wall and measure out from the wall 27" can cause squeaks in the floor. when installing 2-1/4” strip flooring and 30 when installing 3" planks. This will allow adequate working space. Snap chalk line. Adjustments may be necessary to provide adequate penetration of the nail or staple into the nail bed. You want it flush in the nail pocket. Use Step 2 a scrap piece of flooring material to set tools properly before installation. Apply adhesive from the chalk line out 2½’ – 3’. Allow adhesive to flash as per the instructions. The humidity chart will aid in allowing the Before installation of the engineered flooring begins, install a 6 mil appropriate flash time based on the temperature and humidity. polyethylene layer over the sub-floor. This will retard moisture from below and may help prevent squeaks. Keep in mind there is no complete moisture barrier system for staple or nail down installations. Secure your starter rows with a straight edge (2’x 4’s). Install planks and secure with 3M Blue Mask Tape (or similar) as you continue through out your installation. If you must work on top of the newly laid Note: 15lb roofing felt or resin paper may be substituted for the flooring use a kneeling board. polyethylene and installed as below.

Once the remainder of the floor has been installed go back to the Installing 6 mil Polyethylene beginning and remove straight edges and spread adhesive on the remainder of the open subfloor, allow to flash for the appropriate time and lay flooring as instructed. Remembering that the planks closest to Install the polyethylene parallel to the direction of the flooring and Please contact your dealer or distributor to request a allow a 3” overhang. at the perimeter. Make sure each run of Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) polyethylene overlaps the previous run by 6” or more. IMPORTANT NOTE: The information and data above is based on the experience of occupational health and safety Beginning installation professional. It comes from sources believed to be accurate or otherwise technically current. It is the user’s responsibility to Place the planks with the tongue facing away from the wall and along determine if this information is suitable for specific application your chalk line. Use brads or small finishing nails to secure the first and to follow any necessary safety precautions. starter row along the wall edge 1” – 2” from the ends and every 4” – 6” along the side. Counter sink the nails and fill with filler that blends with the flooring installed. Place the nails in a dark grain spot in the board. The base or shoe molding will cover the nails when installed after completion of the installation. Blind nail at a 45o-degree angle through the tongues. It will be easier IF YOU PRE-DRILL THE HOLES IN THE TONGUES. Nail 1” – 2” from the ends and every 4” – 6” along the sides. It will be necessary to blind nail the next 2 rows. A Stanley BT35 brad nailer with 1”-1-/38” brads can also be used to blind nail and no pre-drilling is needed. Continue the installation using an engineered wood flooring stapler, using staples or nails recommended by the manufacturer. Nail or staple the flooring 1” – 2” from the ends and every 4” – 6” along the edge tongues. Complete the Installation -Clean floor with the recommended wood flooring cleaner. -Install or re-install any transition pieces that may be needed, such as Reducer Strips, T-moldings, or Thresholds. The products are available pre-finished to blend with your flooring. -Install or re-install all base and/or quarter round moldings. Nail moldings into the wall, not the floor. Inspect the floor, filling all minor gaps with the appropriate blended filler. -If the floor is to be covered, use a breathable material such as cardboard. Do not cover with plastic. -Leave warranty and floor care information with the owner. Advise them of the product name and code number of the flooring they purchased. -To prevent surface damage avoid rolling heavy furniture and appliances on the floor. Use plywood, hardboard or appliance lifts if necessary. Use protective castors/castor cups or felt pads on the legs of furniture to prevent damage to the flooring.

C CAUTION: WOOD DUST WARNING The State of California (OEEHA Prop 65) has classified Wood Dust as a chemical known to cause cancer in humans. Wood dust can also cause a flammable or explosive hazard.Sawing, sanding, and machining wood products can produce wood dust. The State of Minnesota( Statute 1984 sections 144.495 and 325F.18 ) require all HDF and plywood sold or used in Minnesota meet the HUD Formaldehyde EmissionStandard 24 CFR Sections 3280.308 and 3280.406. Airborne wood dust may cause lung, upper respiratory tract, and eye and skin irritations. Some wood species may cause dermatitis and /or respiratory allergic reactions. The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) has classified wood dust as a nasal carcinogen in humans. Precautionary measures: ● Recover dust for disposal. Sweep or vacuum dust for disposal or if power tools are used equip them with a dust collector. ● Avoid dust contact with an ignition source ● Avoid prolonged or repeated breathing of wood dust in air. If there are high levels of dust then use an NIOSH-designated dust mask. ● Avoid dust contact with eyes and skin First Aid Measures: ● If inhaled, move to fresh air. In case of contact flush eyes and skin with water. If irritation persists, call a physician. CARE GUIDE CLEANING YOUR FLOOR ● Use a damp cloth to blot up spills and spots as soon as they happen. For tough spots such as oil, paint, markers, lipstick, ink, tar or cigarette marks, use acetone/nail polish remover then wipe with a damp cloth. Always avoid allowing liquids to stand on your floor. ● Vacuum, (using the hard floor attachment not the beater bar), dust mop or sweep the floor to minimize abrasive grit and dirt ● Occasionally wipe the floor with a damp mop or cloth ● Periodically clean the floor with a hardwood flooring cleaner, which is specially formulated for the finish. We recommend Bona Swedish Formula Hardwood Cleaner. ● Do not use oil based, wax, and polish, strong ammoniated or abrasive cleaners, steel wool or scouring powder to clean the floor. ● Do not wash or wet-mop the floor with soap, water, oil soap detergent or any other liquid cleaning material. This could cause swelling warping, delamination and joint-line separation, and void the warranty. ● Do not use any type of buffing machine. PROTECTING YOUR FLOOR ● Use quality area rugs and doormats by outdoor entrance areas to prevent dirt, sand, grit and other substances such as oil, asphalt or driveway sealer from being tracked onto your floor. ● Sweep, dust, or vacuum the floor regularly to prevent accumulation of dirt or grit that can scratch or dull the floor finish. ● Use floor protectors and wide bearing leg bases/rollers to minimize indentations and scratches from heavy objects. As a rule of thumb, the heavier the object, the wider the floor protector should be. ● Do not use rubber or foam backed plastic mats as they may discolor the floor. To prevent slippage use an approved vinyl rug underlayment. ● Maintain a normal indoor relative humidity level between 35 and 55% throughout the year, to minimize the natural expansion and contraction of wood. Heating Season (Dry): humidifier is recommended to prevent excess shrinkage due to low humidity levels. Wood stove and electric heat tends to create very dry conditions. Non-Heating Season (Wet): An air conditioner or dehumidifier or periodically turning on your heating system can maintain humidity during the summer months. Avoid excessive exposure to water during periods of inclement weather. ● Avoid gouges or cuts in your floor from sharp objects. While your floor is one of the most wear resistant floors on the market, sharp or pointed objects can nevertheless damage it. ● Don’t walk on your floor with stiletto-style heels, spiked golf shoes, or cleats; they may cause indentations in your floor. ● Rearrange area rugs and furniture periodically so the floor ages evenly. UV sunlight will soften the tone of different species of hardwood to varying degrees. ● Keep pet’s nails trimmed. ● Use a dolly when moving heavy furniture or appliances. But first, put down a sheet of quarter inch plywood or Masonite to protect the floor and help prevent denting. Never try to slide or roll heavy objects across the floor to avoid denting. REPAIRING YOUR FLOOR ● Minor damage can be easily repaired with finishing putty available in blending colors. ● Retain several planks for future repairs.