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Redalyc.Internacionalización De Leonisa: Una Empresa Colombiana

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Redalyc.Internacionalización De Leonisa: Una Empresa Colombiana Estudios Gerenciales ISSN: 0123-5923 [email protected] Universidad ICESI Colombia Ramírez R., Carlos Enrique Internacionalización de Leonisa: Una empresa colombiana de ropa interior Estudios Gerenciales, núm. 98, enero-marzo, 2006, pp. 25-55 Universidad ICESI Cali, Colombia Available in: http://www.redalyc.org/articulo.oa?id=21209802 How to cite Complete issue Scientific Information System More information about this article Network of Scientific Journals from Latin America, the Caribbean, Spain and Portugal Journal's homepage in redalyc.org Non-profit academic project, developed under the open access initiative INTERNACIONALIZACIÓN DE LEONISA: UNA EMPRESA COLOMBIANA DE ROPA INTERIOR1 CARLOS ENRIQUE RAMÍREZ R. Director Programa de Economía y Negocios Internacionales, Universidad Icesi. Master en “International Business”, University of North London. Master en Estudios Políticos, Universidad Javeriana. Economista, Universidad Javeriana. Fecha de recepción: 5-9-2005 Fecha de aceptación: 21-11-2005 RESUMEN así como los principales retos y ame- Este documento analiza el proceso de nazas que los cambios del entorno le internacionalización que ha tenido imponen a la empresa. También se Leonisa, una empresa colombiana explican los orígenes de Leonisa y se que ha logrado destacarse en el ex- hace una descripción de la forma clusivo mundo de la ropa interior fe- como ha evolucionado la propiedad menina. Se presentan las diferentes accionaria hasta el momento en que estrategias que esta empresa ha uti- la empresa quedó en manos de la fa- lizado (exportaciones, montaje de dis- milia Urrea Arbeláez, en marzo de tribuidoras en el exterior e inversión 2005. extranjera), así como los mercados donde ha tenido presencia (Suramé- PALABRAS CLAVE rica, Centroamérica y Europa). A Inversión extranjera, inversión co- manera de marco de referencia, se lombiana en el exterior, confecciones, estudian los rasgos más caracterís- ropa interior, Leonisa, internaciona- ticos del mercado de las confecciones, lización. 1. En la elaboración de este documento se contó con un valioso trabajo investigativo de Johann Rodríguez y María Angélica Cruz. ESTUDIOS Internacionalización de Leonisa: Una empresa colombiana de ropa interior GERENCIALES 25 ABSTRACT main trends and players in the appa- The main objective of this document rel industry. Additionally, the origins is to analyze the internationalization and evolution of this family business, process of the firm Leonisa, a com- and the latest conflict which resulted pany with outstanding performance in changing the family ownership is in the world of exclusive women´s described in the document. underwear. The different strategies in exports and direct investment, as KEY WORDS well as the various markets in South Foreign direct investment, Colom- and Central America, and Europe, bian foreign investment, internatio- where Leonisa products are present, nalization, underwear, third world are analyzed. For a better unders- multinationals, apparel industry, tanding of the market where Leoni- Leonisa. sa functions, this paper explores the Clasificación: B ESTUDIOS 26 GERENCIALES No. 98 • Enero - Marzo de 2006 INTRODUCCIÓN parte esboza los principales retos y Una compañía que es capaz de ven- oportunidades que tiene esta empre- der productos, tan íntimos como bras- sa colombiana de cara al futuro. sieres en más de veinte países, que además de su planta en Colombia 1. EL MERCADO DE LAS produce desde el año 1965 en Costa CONFECCIONES Y LA ROPA Rica, que tiene presencia directa en INTERIOR once mercados por medio de distribui- 1.1 Nota histórica sobre el brassiere doras propias, que produce 26 millo- nes de prendas al año y factura La ropa interior femenina ha sido uno aproximadamente US$90 millones de los íconos de expresión de la mu- anuales, será el objeto de análisis de jer. En los años sesenta y setenta, por este documento. ejemplo, el sostén sirvió de símbolo para el movimiento de liberación fe- Leonisa es una empresa colombiana menina. Las primeras mujeres en de ropa interior, cuya presencia in- utilizar el corset como prenda íntima ternacional, principalmente en mer- fueron las cretenses en el siglo II A.C, cados latinos, representó en el año que lo usaron para levantar los se- 2004 el 35% de sus ventas totales.2 nos y poder lucirlos desnudos fuera Debido al alto grado de reconocimien- de la ropa. Años después, las muje- to que tiene en Colombia y en un buen res griegas y romanas, buscando lo número de países latinos, Leonisa es opuesto, usaban bandas pectorales un interesante caso de la forma como para reducir el tamaño de su busto. una empresa proveniente de un país En aquella época el sujetador no era en vía de desarrollo como Colombia, como hoy en día se conoce pues con- ha logrado incursionar con éxito en sistía en una banda plana sin forma el mundo de la confección internacio- alguna, que permitía sujetar y redu- nal. cir. Desde finales del siglo XIX, vino En la primera parte se establece un la era del brassiere gracias a la fran- marco de referencia al presentar la cesa Hermine Cadolle, quien creó un historia de la ropa interior, el merca- modelo de sostén basado en dos pa- do global y el mercado colombiano de ñuelos unidos por una cinta estrecha las confecciones y la ropa interior. En y sujetados por dos tirantes. No obs- la segunda parte, se introduce la com- tante, éste se comercializó mundial- pañía como tal, al presentar su his- mente a partir de 1914, cuando la toria, mercado objetivo y sistemas de señora Mary Phelps Jacob registró la distribución. La tercera parte, que primera marca moderna de este pro- constituye el núcleo central del docu- ducto en Estados Unidos, creando un mento, analiza la presencia interna- modelo liviano que separaba el busto cional de Leonisa en los mercados naturalmente. Pero su uso cotidiano centroamericano, suramericano, nor- se generalizó, especialmente, duran- teamericano y europeo. La última te los años cincuenta y esto ha segui- 2. A finales del año 2000, el mercado internacional representó aproximadamente el 25% de las ventas. ESTUDIOS Internacionalización de Leonisa: Una empresa colombiana de ropa interior GERENCIALES 27 do evolucionando a través de las dé- las economías asiáticas se volvieran cadas siguientes, expresando fiel- extremadamente competitivas. mente los cambios del rol de la mu- Los países industrializados para po- jer. A pesar del auge inicial alcanza- der mantenerse competitivos en el do por esta prenda, en los años se- mercado global, tuvieron que restrin- tenta, este producto bajó su popula- gir la competencia internacional por ridad entre las mujeres pues era ma- medio de aranceles y cuotas. Estas yor el deseo de libertad que maneja- restricciones se han aplicado sobre ban; mientras que en los años ochen- países en desarrollo, especialmente ta, volvió a surgir fuertemente con del Asia, que alcanzaron a tener casi características antes no existentes el 50% de las importaciones norte- como los encajes y los realces, entre americanas de prendas de vestir en otros.3 1970. 1.2 El mercado global El comercio de textiles y confecciones de las confecciones se ha caracterizado por estar sujeto a Los grandes cambios de la industria un régimen restrictivo, mediante el de las confecciones se han visto gra- cual los países importadores “nego- cias al auge de las fibras sintéticas cian” o imponen cuotas bilaterales de en las décadas de los años cincuenta importación, en el marco de una serie y sesenta, el aumento de la compe- de acuerdos que estaban exentos de tencia internacional a raíz del surgi- las reglas y disciplinas del Acuerdo miento de grandes exportadores de General sobre Aranceles Aduaneros y países asiáticos durante los años se- Comercio (GATT). El uso de cuotas senta y setenta, y las nuevas estrate- otorga a los países importadores un gias de empresas norteamericanas y alto poder de negociación frente a los productores que por lo general son de europeas para reestructurar sus in- países en desarrollo. Del mismo modo, dustrias durante los años setenta y los regímenes aduaneros especiales de ochenta.4 los países industrializados fomentan El desafío asiático a los países indus- el ensamblaje de productos finales so- trializados de Norteamérica y Euro- bre la base de insumos provenientes pa empezó con Japón y continuó en del país importador, lo cual obstaculi- los años sesenta y setenta, primero za la búsqueda de insumos a precios con economías como Hong Kong, Co- más competitivos. Todas estas situa- rea del Sur y la provincia china de ciones impiden que los productores Taiwán y recientemente con China. competitivos de los países en desarro- La subcontratación de mano de obra llo gocen plenamente de sus ventajas barata y la eficiencia ganada en pro- comparativas, en una industria que cesos de integración vertical hizo que tiene escasas barreras de entrada.5 3. Tomado del artículo Historia de las prendas. Edición digital. www.afife.cl 4. Mortimore, Michael y Zamora, Ronney. Serie de Desarrollo Productivo No. 46: “La competitividad inter- nacional de la industria de prendas de vestir de Costa Rica”. Capitulo 1: Aspectos generales de la indus- tria de textiles y prendas de vestir, p.40. Edición: Julio 1998. 5. González, Anabel. Ministerio de Comercio Exterior de Costa Rica. “Los resultados del caso textil en la Organización Mundial del Comercio”. 1 de Noviembre de 1996. En: www.comex.gov.cr ESTUDIOS 28 GERENCIALES No. 98 • Enero - Marzo de 2006 Los productores de los países indus- vés de la inversión extranjera direc- trializados lograron institucionalizar
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