What to do in Switzerland

(from Aargau.....

.....to Zürich Zoo)

Ultimate Edition WHAT TO DO IN SWITZERLAND Introduction In ‘What to do in Switzerland’ our aim has always been to give an idea of the vast range of excursions and activities on hand within easy reach of Zürich, Zug and Luzern. All the celebrated touristy places are included, but as the most rewarding destinations are often discovered by chance off the beaten track, the emphasis lies on them, particularly as they don’t always appear in the ‘real’ Guidebooks. This edition - our last - has been completely revised. Space doesn’t permit full directions to each location but web site details are given wherever possible. We also show the canton for each entry to give some idea of distances. An asterisk (*) indicates a highly recommended option.

The compilation of this Guide has been very much a labour of love supported by the many readers who over the last eight years have given positive feedback or who have recommended their favourite trips. A mention should also be made of our long suffering friends and relatives from the UK and elsewhere who have embarked on numerous voyages into the unknown with us - some more successful than others but all very enjoyable. We are indebted to De Beers for always making their photocopying facilities available.

We have indeed been fortunate to find ourselves with time on our hands in which to explore Switzerland. This Guide is definitely not definitive: it is now up to the reader to discover more.

The information is organised into the following sections:

1: The Heart of Switzerland 2: Family friendly destinations. 3: Of interest to culture vultures. 4: Suitable for maiden aunts and couch potatoes. 5: For the physically active. 6: Zürich. 7: Luzern. 8: Zug. 9: Further afield. 10: Seasonal events. 11: Skiing. 12: What to do in Liechtenstein. 13: Cross references. 14: Trivia Section. 15: Recommended Reading and Websites. Section 1 - The Heart of Switzerland

Engelberg* www.engelberg.ch: 1050m - easy to reach by car but also a memorable train trip via Luzern - Benedictine Monastery dating from 1120 and rococo church in unparalleled setting - tours available - compact cheese dairy and attractive café: www.schauk ä serei- engelberg.ch - watch out for Bollywood film crews on location in town - Titlis Glacier www.titlis.ch: 3239m - first climbed by two Brothers from monastery in 1744 - nowadays take revolving cable car to top - better visited in winter as approach looks a bit like an abandoned quarry in summer - pricey and often crowded - only go up when weather clear (check TV screen in ticket hall) - 360 degree views - Glacier Grotto - summer Glacier Park - free use of ‘micro scooters snow scooters balancers boogie boards and snow tubes’ - if this isn’t enough the intrepid can also hire ‘devil bikes’ from Jochpass descending 410m in 20 minutes or go bungee jumping ( 130m from floor of cable car) - classic footpath to Melchsee-Frutt - pretty walk or horse drawn carriage around Tr ü bsee - 1800m - marmot park - rent Trotti bikes* from Gershnialp - scoot 3.5 km down mountain road en famille - Brunni* www.brunni.ch: 1600m - on sunnier and gentler side of valley - inexpensive cable car - lovely restaurant at Ristis - walks - 600m Rodelbahn (slide) with spectating llamas - playground -family skiing sledging and rubber rings on snow - take chairlift up to Härzlisee and simple restaurant at Brunnihütte - excellent walks and views - unique Barfussweg* around lake - paddle around edge and experience different sensations such as sand gravel woodchips conifer twigs and glutinous mud - ingenious and great fun for all ages. (NW) Wirzweli * www.wirzweli.ch: 1900m - reached by small cable car from Dallenwil on road to Engelberg - family atmosphere - Rodelbahn - farm animals - playground - cosy restaurant - lovely position - nursery skiing. (NW) Stanserhorn www.stanserhorn.ch : 1900m - 100 year old cog railway from Stans - Rondorama revolving restaurant - easy walk round summit - views of 10 lakes - marmot park - evening events. (NW) Sarnen www.sarnen-tourism.ch : charming town picturesquely situated on Sarnersee - interesting shops and markets - good local museum (Heimatmuseum) - Lido with breathtaking views and café - boat trips - cycle hire - Glaubenberg (1400m) is above - exceptional countryside and opportunities for sledging cross country skiing (40 km of pistes - ‘das Eldorado der Langlaufer’) and snowshoe tours. (OW) Kehrsiten: peaceful and unspoilt walk along Lake Lucerne from Stansstad to Seehotel Baumgarten and beyond to foot of Bürgenstock funicular (qv) - 6000 year old Neolithic settlement was found underwater here.(LU) B ü rgenstock* www.buergenstock-hotels.ch : 900m - very accessible resort area with several smart hotels - northern limestone slopes surprisingly form part of City of Luzern - spectacular Alpine aspect and tremendous lake views - drive up via Stansstad or catch boat from Luzern then take elderly (though recently renovated) Standseilbahn (funicular) with 45 degree gradient - small golf course - walk along to abandoned Hotel H ö negg* for brilliant views of Vierwaldstättersee and Engelberg valley - brave Europe’s highest free standing glass sided elevator (the Hammetschwand lift) to summit restaurant travelling 162m in 50 seconds - but beware - ‘at the top, the tower is anchored to solid ground by means of a catwalk’ (‘Discover Lucerne’) - follow this (if you can) with a fun scramble down. (LU/NW) Mount Pilatus* www.pilatus.com: 2132m - ‘der Hausberg der Luzerner ‘ - originally known as the ‘Broken Mountain’ (mons fractus) because of its classic profile - in Middle Ages ascent was forbidden for fear of dragons in lake where Pontius Pilate was said to have washed his hands - 6 monks first climbed it in 1387 and were imprisoned for their efforts - travel up now with impunity on steepest cogwheel railway in the world (48% gradient) through 4 tunnels from Alpnachstad or by cable car/ white knuckle gondola from Kriens - the ‘Golden Round Trip’ combines these with boat from Luzern - Queen Victoria ascended by mule in 1868 - restaurants - walks - awe inspiring scenery - 360 degree view from windswept summit - mountain crows (Täche) with yellow beaks and red feet come down when snow is imminent - try the longest Rodelbahn in Switzerland (1350m with a 25m tunnel) at Frakmuntegg - good children’s playground at Krienseregg . (LU) Eigenthal: beautiful valley by Pilatus - great walking - cross country skiing in winter. (LU) Kastanienbaum/Winkel: traffic free lakeside road on Horw Halbinsel south of Luzern - perfect place for cycling rollerblading swimming walking and running -good places to eat.(LU) Dietschiberg: above Luzern - numerous footpaths - extensive views - home to an exclusive golf club. (LU) Schloss Meggenhorn: castle dates from 1870 - immaculate gardens - various footpaths - wonderful views of Vierwaldstättersee - small farm animals - boathouse - regular social and cultural events. (LU) Seebodenalp: 1025m - take lift or walk up Rigi(qv) from Küssnacht. (SZ) Rigi* www.rigi.ch: 1800m - name derives from Latin Regina Montium' (‘Queen of the Mountains’) with feminine gender in German to match (other peaks are all masculine) - original tourists travelled up by mule or sedan chair - 21st century round trip highly recommended - (1) take boat from Luzern to Vitznau - (2) catch Europe’s oldest rack railway (built by Nikolaus Riggenbach in 1871 - ‘my aim is to enable people to view the beauty of our glorious land from up on high‘) to Rigi-Kulm - (3) walk last 200m to summit - panorama extends 500 miles in circumference - Victorians doing Grand Tour watched sun rise here - Victor Hugo noted ‘an incredible horizon….that chaos of absurd exaggerations and scary diminutions’ - (4) easy walk down to cable car at Rigi Kaltbad - first visited for cures in 17th century - (5a) descend to Weggis and catch boat back to Luzern - (5b) alternatively: walk down to Staffel and catch train to Arth Goldau - far fewer tourists this way. ( SZ) Weggis* www.weggis.ch: attractive rather genteel town on Lake Lucerne admired by Goethe, Mark Twain (who stayed at Villa Bühlegg in 1897) and Victor Hugo - subtropical microclimate - gardens - restaurants - walks and strolls - boat and bike hire - music on lakefront. (SZ) Brunnen: take a return boat trip to Luzern for lunch or to Flüelen - contrasting views over entire Vierwaldstättersee - take Urmiberg cable car to 1140m - quaint restaurant perched above lake - walk 10 minutes up to Schwand for panoramic aspect over Rigi and Zugersee www.urmiberg.ch .(SZ) TellsKapelle : lakeside monument to William Tell (1880) near Flüelen - beautifully situated - Tellsplatte is nearby - where Tell leapt ashore to escape Gessler’s clutches. (SZ) Altdorf: central to William Tell legend - where Gessler ordered Tell to shoot apple from son’s head - Telldenkmal ( 1895 monument) in square commemorates this - very scenic drive from here over Klausen Pass - Switzerland’s longest - to Linthal . (SZ) B ü rglen: celebrated as Tell’s birthplace - chapel (1582) on site of Tell’s house -Tell Museum www.tellmuseum.ch - slide presentation available in English . (SZ) Rotshuo: accessible on boat from Luzern - gardens - grotto - children’s Zoo - walks. (SZ) Swiss Knife Valley*: mountainous area between Einsiedeln and Schwyz - dominated by twin peaks of the Mythen which can be scaled by the adventurous (and robust) walker - Brunni is reached from Einsiedeln through Alpthal - family skiing area - gondola to Holzegg - good restaurant - walk along (and up) to Rotenfluh for excellent views of several lakes - popular area for parascending - lift down to Rickenbach (Schwyz) or further lovely walk on to Iberegeregg - Schwyzer Panoramaweg runs for 20 km from Sattel (qv) to Sternen (near Hoch Ybrig) - short chair lift from Unteriberg for uplifting 1 hour circular walk then lunch and return by Rodelbahn - across valley is Stoos (1300m) www.stoos.ch - much loved traffic free village spectacularly overlooking Lake Lucerne - excellent family skiing. (SZ) Weg der Schweiz : 36km footpath around Urnersee (rugged part of Lake Lucerne) from Rutli Meadow to Brunnen - established in 1991 to mark 900th anniversary of Confederation of Switzerland - population of each canton is represented by proportionate length of path 5mm corresponding to one citizen. (UR) Schwyz: historical town in Swiss heartland -Bundesbriefmuseum www.museenschweiz.ch houses documents and artefacts charting history of Confederation -’Geschichte zwischen Mythos und Wahrheit’‘ ('history combining legend and reality’) - main square is striking though infested with traffic. (SZ) R ü tli Meadow: opposite Brunnen on Lake Lucerne - holds mystical significance for the Swiss as place where Swiss Confederation began in 1291 with signing of Eternal Oath of Allegiance - rather anticlimactic - flagpole, grassy field and gift shop/café - restaurant with stunning views and Schiller Monument are nearby - although celebrated for his play Wilhelm Tell Schiller never visted Switzerland. (UR) Seelisberg www.seelisberg.com : 800m - dramatic vantage point over Rütli Meadow and Urnersee - swimming in small mountain lake (18-22 degrees) - access from Lake Lucerne via Treib funicular - home to Maharishi Ayur-Veda Health Centre - International Capital of the Age of Enlightenment. (UR)

Section 2 - Family Friendly Destinations

Wildpark Langenberg www.wildpark.ch : in Langnau - founded in 1886 - 15 indigenous species including elks brown bears wild boar - restaurant - open all year - belongs to Zurich Stadt - free admission - good place for walking at any time. (ZH) Naturzentrum Sihlwald www.sihlwald.ch : in Sihltal - wildlife trails - themed gardens - wild pigs - wooden maze - surrounding beech forest is largest in Switzerland - when nearby Autobahn link is completed whole area may be left to return to nature, (ZH) Tierpark Goldau www.tierpark.ch: 900 animals in natural setting - pond area - children’s quizzes - restaurants - playground . (ZG) Knies Kinderzoo www.knieskinderzoo.ch: in Rapperswil (qv) - 400 animals owned by circus dynasty - dolphin shows - large children’s playground . (SG) Tony’s Zoo Rothenburg: small free zoo - exotic animals - playground and picnic area. (LU) Conny-Land www.conny-land.ch: dolphinarium - rides - animals. (TG) Restaurant Chn ü schper Huesli: at Buchenegg (above Adliswil) - idiosyncratic style - sometimes staffed by Swiss ‘witches’ - great for special occasions - excellent value for lunch - very popular in evenings so booking essential. (ZH) Pegasus Small World Museum www.spielzeug-museum.ch : near Türlersee - toy museum - special exhibitions - party facilities - lakeside bistro - interesting shop - playground - walk around lake in summer and across it in winter - hire the rote Samtsofa (romantic rowing boat) www.tuerlersee.ch (ZH) M ü hlerama : working mill museum in Tiefenbrunnen - grinding and baking - exhibits - birthday parties - chance to slide down corn chute on flour sack if so inclined - cooking courses .(ZH) Z ü rcher Spielzeugmuseum (Toy Museum): Franz Carl Weber collection - close to station - 1200 exhibits - open most afternoons. (ZH) Park im Gruenen R ü schlikon: funded by Migros - above Zürichsee - children’s pool - playground - children’s train - modern restaurant and handy food shop. (ZH) Heidi-Huesli www.heidiland.ch : Heidi museum in Maienfeld - exhibits and farm animals - village is very pretty - surrounded by vineyards and mountains. (GR) H ö llgrotten www.hoellgrotten.ch : extensive and visually stunning limestone caves discovered at end of 19th century close to Baar - lakes multicoloured stalagmites and stalactites - rather drippy so wear good shoes and waterproof clothing - small cafe. (ZG) Sattel Hoch St ü ckli * www.hochstuckli.ch : smart revolving gondolas have replaced much loved ancient chairlift over meadows - summer Rodelbahn - children’s play area - bouncy castles/trampolines - Panorama Weg - two hour walk - family skiing - roller park. (SZ) Raten: great views and walks for all seasons - restaurant - playground -miniscule ski run - nature trail - kite flying - horse drawn sledge rides. (SZ) F ü rigen Bunker (Festung): Second World War bunker on Lake Lucerne near Kehrsiten (qv) - very atmospheric if somewhat scary and damp. (LU) Glasi Hergiswil* www.glasi.ch: oldest glass factory in Switzerland - excellent free exhibition - ‘one of the most beautiful museums in Europe’ - glassblowing - interactive section - good playground - water games - shops - restaurants - ideal for all ages although approach the shops with caution in the company of young children. (NW) Freilichtmuseum Ballenberg* www.ballenberg.ch: Swiss Open Air Museum - open April to October - over 90 traditional buildings to explore - set in wonderful scenery - demonstrations of crafts and regional costumes - 250 animals - restaurants - shops - special events - quite exceptional. (BE)

Section 3 - Of interest to culture vultures Einsiedeln* : seat of great 10th century Benedictine monastery - Baroque Abbey (1735) - breathtaking rococo interior restored in eyecatching salmon pink - 250000 pilgrims annually - 15th century Black Madonna provides focus of devotions - Well of Our Lady in front of church has 14 outlets - pilgrims drink from each in turn - regular services with Gregorian chanting and music - Christmas Market in atmospheric square - combine visit with walk or drive round neighbouring Sihlsee (largest reservoir in Switzerland) for spectacular alpine scenery and rolling countryside - drive over Sattelegg to Wägitalersee - walk or cycle 12km circumference.(SZ) Winterthur www.winterthur-tourismus.ch: ‘city of museums’ (although town itself is very disappointing) - 16 including clock museum (Uhrensammmlung Kellenberger) tree museum (Internationales Baum-Archiv ) exhibitionist gallery set intimately in a private house (Villa Flora) highly regarded collection of photography in former warehouse with 30000 exhibits (Fotomuseum www.fotomuseum.ch ) most exceptional are Oskar Reinhart Collections (am Romerholz - beautifully hung art collection including Impressionists and am Stadtgarten - German Austrian and Swiss art) - Technorama ( www.technorama.ch) - ‘hands on’ science and technology - good day out for all ages. (ZH) St Gallen www.st.gallen-bodensee.ch: monastery founded in 612 - Stiftsbibliothek (Abbey Library) built in 1758 with 150000 books 2000 manuscripts and a 700BC Egyptian mummy lurking in corner (an unwanted gift) - marquetry floor is protected by wearing felt slippers - walnut and cherry wood everywhere - extravagant Baroque cathedral designed by Peter Thumb (1766) - compact Altstadt is World Heritage Site featuring 111 oriel windows - this is the place where Lacoste crocodiles are hand embroidered and the lacquer discs for Camilla Parker-Bowles’ wedding dress were made. (SG) Solothurn* : ‘the most beautiful baroque city in Switzerland’ (Rough Guide) - intact and atmospheric old town - magnificent churches - beautiful squares - fountains and clocks - wonderful art gallery (Kunstmuseum) www.kunstmuseum-so.ch - features Holbein and Klimt - during Fasnacht town is called ‘Honolulu’ which is directly on other side of world. (SO) Baden www.baden-schweiz.ch: birthplace of DJ Bobo - unspoilt Altstadt on banks of Limmat - famous for its spa with 19 springs at Kurplatz - Romans called city Aquae Helveticae - one million litres flow through daily at 47 degrees - climb up to ruined Stein castle - Langmatt Foundation holds outstanding collection of French Impressionist paintings - Swiss Children’s Museum - first Swiss railway Station (1847). (AG) Hergiswald* www.hergiswald.ch: 17th century baroque Wallfahrts (pilgrims’) church above Kriens - Bilderhimmel on ceiling of 324 panels of symbolic paintings by Caspar Meglinger - a national monument - impossible to describe adequately - a ‘one-off’ and well worth the detour. (NW) St. Pius’ Church Meggen*: 1964-1966 - quite extraordinary design by Franz Fueg - windowless cube reminiscent of a warehouse from outside - mainly constructed from 888 carefully selected translucent marble plaques (20-28 mm thick) and steel - result is unexpectedly magnificent. (LU) Sempach: picturesquely situated on lake - interesting cafes and shops including ‘Teddy Bear Museum’ - detour to Schlacht Kapelle commemorating victims of massacre in 1387 - fascinating coats of arms - and on to Chilchbuel for ‘the oldest and most romantic’ church in Luzern Canton - simple but stirring. (LU) Muri : Abbey Church (1627) has unusual hexagonal design - large maze nearby in summer suitable for children. (AG) Beromunster: atmospheric cluster of buildings around remarkable 11th century church with unusual heraldic symbols and carved choir stall - pleasant restaurant nearby . (AG) Museum Kl ö sterli : in Ettiswil - slightly creepy collection of religious relics and artefacts housed in Schloss (Castle) Wyher - built in 1304 (LU)

Section 4 - Suitable for maiden aunts and couch potatoes

Bern* www.bernetourism.ch: arrival by train strongly recommended as Autobahn journey can be tortuous - UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site - (possibly) ‘the world’s most beautiful and relaxing capital city’ (Rough Guide) - unmatched ambience - named after bears which can still be seen in pits at Bärengraben - 20 minute multimedia show in nearby Tourist Centre - excellent guided tour also available - compact old town close to station - 6 km of medieval sandstone arcades dating from 1405 when previous wooden buildings was destroyed by fire - ‘the longest covered shopping promenade in the world’ - 'a beautiful order, a solidity, a gravity' (Dorothy Wordsworth) - Zytglogge (clock tower) (1530) with display of figures four minutes before the hour - all cantonal road distances are measured from here - ‘gorgeous’ views of River Aare - Gothic sandstone cathedral (1421) with striking depiction of Last Judgement over entrance portal - climb 344 steps (100m) to top of belfry for stunning view - Kunstmuseum (art gallery) - www.kunstmuseumbern.ch - www.paulkleezentrum.ch - largest Klee collection in world - almost half of Bernese artist’s output is here with 3000 paintings and 50000 drawings - Einsteinhaus - where physicist lived between 1903 and 1905 and later wrote ‘The Theory of Relativity’ - over 20 other museums including such diverse offerings as the Salvation Army Archive, Psychiatric Museum, Children’s Museum, Museum of Wildlife and Hunting, National Archives, Rifle Museum and Communications Museum housing world’s largest stamp collection -Tierpark Dahlhölzli (Zoo) www.tierpark-bern.ch - 2000 European creatures in natural woodland - some parts accessible at any time. (BE) Schauk ä serei Schwyz www.milchstrasse.ch : see cheese being made. (SZ) Victorinox Factory Shop www.victorinox.com: Ibach (near Schwyz) - complete range of top quality knives at discount prices. (SZ) Rapperswil* : picturesque medieval ‘town of roses’ on Zürichsee - 13th century castle - walled gardens with 6000 rose bushes - Knie children’s zoo (qv) - deer park - eating places on lake and in squares - reached by boat or via causeway from Pfäffikon - ideal adult diversion if children are at Alpamare (qv) - Circus and Polish (pertaining to Poland not footwear maintenance) Museums - Blues and Jazz Festival in June. (SG) Rhine Falls : Europe’s largest waterfall near Schaffhausen noted for its width (150m) rather than its height (23m) - 17000 years old - up to 1250 cubic metres of water per second - most spectacular in spring - Goethe compared it to ‘the source of the ocean’ - often very crowded indeed - park on Neuhausen side - take short boat trip into spray and (strictly optional for couch potatoes) climb Känzeli rock in middle then scale steep steps on other side following circular route back over bridge .(SH) Schaffhausen* www.schaffhausen-tourismus.ch : ancient town overlooked by tourists and also by the Munot - 49m round fortress built with forced labour on Dürer’s principles in 1564 - wonderful arched interior and unusual spiral ramp for cannons - take a Nightwatch guided tour and hear nocturnal sounding of bell - Münster (Church) is former Benedictine monastery - plain and Romanesque - cloister with medieval herb garden is largest in Switzerland - courtyard bell inspired Schiller and Wordsworth to verse - houses in Altstadt have intricate frescoes and more than 170 oriel windows - fountains squares and statues in abundance. (SH) Stein am Rhein: chocolate boxy village - best to visit off season - frescoed half timbered houses painted by Thomas Schmiede between 1520 and 1525 - Rathausplatz has 14 cornered fountain - well preserved medieval abbey - Christmas market. (SH) Lenzburg Castle www.schlosslenzburg.ch : dates from 1100s - beautiful gardens and views - Aargau Cantonal Museum - activities for children - son et lumière. (AG) Bremgarten: well preserved Altstadt - covered wooden bridge - worth a visit - off tourist track. (AG) Sursee: pretty town on Sempachersee with airy church and broad cobbled street. (LU) Willisau: birthplace of Willisauer Ringli - hard circular ginger biscuits to be dunked in coffee - broad medieval street - jazz festival in early September - excellent Christmas Market. (LU) Tierweltpanorama : a creepy curiosity in Ebikon - taxidermist Walter Linsenmaier’s collection of over 1000 stuffed creatures - exhibition of natural history drawings. (LU) Alphorn Workshop Kriens www.alphorn.com: video - tour - see 200 different instruments - shop. (LU) Astrid Kapelle * : monument in peaceful location outside Küssnacht am Rigi to Queen Astrid of Belgium - killed in car accident here in 1935 aged 29 - simple but strangely moving. (SZ)

Section 5 - For the physically active

Golfpark Holzhausern-Ennetsee www.ennetsee-golf.ch : 18 holes - pay & play - also 9 & 6 hole courses - excellent practice facilities including driving range (Golfodrom) - handicap (36) required. (ZG) Loberensteig Minigolf : in Zug behind main post office. (ZG) Unteraegeri Minigolf: next to Aegerisee - small café and playground. (ZG) Felmis Crazy Golf : pleasantly situated in Horw (Luzern) - refreshments. (LU) Cherry Bowl Sport : at Sihlbrugg - bowling - good for birthday parties. (ZG) Erlebnis Schongi-Land www.schongiland.ch : between Zug and Aarau - indoor/outdoor activities -mountain bikes - rollerblading - covered Rodelbahn - go karts -restaurant .(AG) Sattel Roller Park: www.rollerpark.ch: largest outdoor park in Europe. (SZ) Rollerhall Baar: behind McDonalds. (ZG) Jumpin: www.jumpin.ch: centre for snowboarders and ski acrobats in unlikely setting of Mettmenstetten - courses available - water jumps bungees trampolines. (ZH) Kunsteisbahn Luzern www.eisfeld.ch : indoor/outdoor ice skating - curling -climbing wall. (LU) Kunsteisbahn Zug-Herti : indoor/outdoor ice skating - hockey. (ZG) Swiss Holiday Park Morschach www.swissholidaypark.ch: adventure pool - Wellness-Oase - restaurant - barbecues - sauna-fitness - badminton. (SZ) Wakeboard Academy www.wakeboardacademy.com: on Zürichsee in Wollishofen . Alpamare www.alpamare.ch: biggest covered water park in Europe - appears in Guinness Book of Records - 4 pools and 9 slides totalling 675m in length - Adventure Pool - Double Bob - SplashPipe - Niagara - Cresta Canyon - 261m water slide. (SZ) S ä ntispark www.saentispark.ch: in Abtwil/St Gallen - swimming and playground - 90m slide - shopping and leisure centre. (SG) Baar Pool (L ä ttich) : pleasant family atmosphere. (ZG) Kriens Pool: 4 swimming pools - grassy area - restaurant. (LU) Adidas Factory Outlet : close to motorway exit at Cham - large range of first quality sports clothing at reduced prices. (ZG)

Section 6 - Z ürich

Z ü rich Tourism www.zurichtourism.ch : Tourist Office is in main station. Walking Tour : 2 hour stroll through old town - meet at Tourist Office - daily in summer - less often in winter - specialist tours (architecture, Jewish history, crimes and scandals) available through Verein Stadtreisen Zürich . Trolleybus Tour : 2 hour trip in quasi vintage vehicle leaves from Sihlquai. Free Bikes (Züri Rollt) www.zuerichbybike.ch: - for small deposit take a bike from main station or from Alstetten Enge Oerlikon and Stadelhofen stations or Globus between May and October. Limmatschiffe : regular narrow boat departures upstream from Swiss National Museum (qv) for an hour long trip under 6 bridges to lake and back. Boat trips on Z ü richsee* www.zsg.ch: 17 ships including 2 steamers - very good value - various lengths and specialities - short round trip (kleiner Rundfahrt) sails every 30 minutes in summer or take 4 hour round trip to Rapperswil*(qv) - Swiss food - ‘Jazz’n’Dine’ - classic cruise - evening Traumschiff’ - Oldies-Schiff. B ü rkliplatz: starting point for boat trips - mass inline skating around town starts from here on Monday evenings - to join in you must be able to stop without falling over - JMW Turner (not known for his skating prowess) was inspired by the views over lake from here towards the Alps - fruit flower and vegetable market on Tuesdays and Fridays - flea market on Saturdays - half timbered building on corner was city’s first ladies’ public convenience. Schwanzengraben: walk along Zürich’s medieval moat starting at Bürkliplatz - quiet watery and green - in Hotel Baur au Lac Alfred Nobel decided to initiate his Prize and high level Second World War negotiations took place. Hauptbahnhof : built in 1871 - hosts many events on a grand scale in its concourse including world class beach volleyball - look for numbers from 'The Da Vinci Code' in windows above platforms - 'Schwebender Schutzengel' hovers from roof - exuberant acrylic sculpture 130m long and 43m high - its creator Niki de Saint Phalle paid for two uniformed porters to help elderly passengers having once experienced difficulties on arrival herself - statue outside is of Alfred Escher who masterminded the railway system and Gotthard Tunnel and lost his sight as a result - more mundanely - below station is Shopville - 170 shops most of which are (unusually for Switzerland) open on Sundays - branch of Migros here has quickest turnover of all - stocks sell out over twice daily. Bahnhofstrasse: Zürich’s premier shopping thoroughfare - 1.2 km lined with linden trees and populated with trams which continue to run by popular demand in preference to a proposed metro - follows line of old city wall from Station to Lake increasing in social cachet as it progresses - grassy space in front of Globus was used for public executions and is now home to statue of eminent Swiss educator Pestalozzi and also to fountain given to city by Paris to initiate World Convention of Water Experts - 4 nymphs represent Simplicity Purity Sobriety and Clarity - there are over 1200 fountains in the city - 5 largest Swiss banks have headquarters on Paradeplatz - the ’Gnomes’’ gold is stashed beneath - take a gentle coffee break at Cafe Sprüngli nearby . Kantonspolizei Headquarters: unlikely home to spectacular hall decorated in wonderfully warm colours by Augusto Giacometti - open to public with free admission during office hours. Urania Observatory : distinctively domed building near river - 20 tonne telescope with 30mm lens - open on clear Tuesday to Saturday evenings. Polybahn: bright red funicular constructed in 1889 scales 40m from Central to Institute of Technology where in 1913 both Einstein and Jung could be found studying and whence 21 Nobel Prizewinners have emerged - good views from Polyterrasse over city and lake. Niederdorf (D ö rfli): total contrast to glamour of Bahnhofstrasse - on opposite side of Limmat - traffic free and lined with ancient houses - James Joyce and Lenin once lived here ( not under the same roof) - birthplace of the Dada art movement is near to Cabaret Voltaire - main street intersected by over 30 others which are well worth exploring - intriguing variety of shops and restaurants - vibrant at night - Café Odeon was meeting place for literati and other notables including Lenin Mussolini Mata Hari James Joyce and Herman Hesse (who set ‘Steppenwolf’ in Zürich) - Krönenhalle is arguably Zürich’s most famous restaurant with works by Klee Chagall Matisse Picasso Braque Miro Kandinsky and Bonnard on its walls. Staatsarchiv: Cantonal Records Office behind Niederdorf - worth visiting for scale 3D model of Zürich Altstadt. Kunsthaus* www.kunsthaus.ch : Switzerland’s best - ‘if you visit just one art gallery in Switzerland this should be it’ (Rough Guide) - a wonderfully broad collection and not too big - regular world class exhibitions. Grossm ü nster : cradle of the Reformation in German speaking Switzerland in 1519 - construction began in 1090 - dedicated to the three executed patron saints of Zurich Felix Regula and Exuperantius - marks spot to which they carried their heads and expired - interior is lofty and austere (thanks to Huldrych Zwingli ) with stained glass by Augusto Giacometti - nephew of the more famous Alberto - climb 184 steps inside towers for great views - Victor Hugo called them ‘les poivrieres ’ (pepper pots) - visit crypt to see gargoyle style statue of Charlemagne whose horse dropped to its knees here - cloister entrance is to left of main bronze door by Otto Munch - statue of Zwingli is by Wasserkirche on river. Fraum ü nster : founded in 853 by King Ludwig’s daughter Hildegard - 13/14th century - houses relics of Zürich's saints - noted for Marc Chagall’s stained glass windows (executed in 1970 when he was 83) - compare with jewel like windows of Apostles by Giacometti - contemporary 1920s cloister with intriguing detail depicting Zürich's history and legend. St Peter’s Church www.st-peter-zh.ch: in old town - simple and airy design - mixture of Baroque and Romanesque - (amazing fact to tell friends and relatives coming up) - tower has largest clock face in Europe (Big Ben and Kilchberg Church come 2nd and 3rd) - 9m in diameter - minute hand is nearly 4m long - roof has 48000 tiles - largest A flat bell weighs 6 tonnes. Lindenhof : elevated square in oldest part of town with great views over Niederdorf and University Quarter - giant chessboards - site of Roman and Celtic forts - occasional access to ancient remains beneath - Roman child's gravestone nearby - Charlemagne used to hold his Courts here in open air with God as witness - beautiful in the evening . Schweizerisches Landesmuseum (Swiss National Museum) www.slmnet.ch: in purpose built gothic castle (1893) - tower echoes Baden’s town gate - exhaustive (and potentially exhausting) rundown on Swiss way of life - entrance free. Z ü rich Zoo www.zoo.ch : Switzerland’s largest - 4000 animals in natural surroundings - aquarium and aviary - 10000m square rainforest exhibit replicates conditions in Madagascar. Botanical Garden : rather scholarly collection containing 3 million plants and 15000 different species - 3 glasshouses enclose tropical subtropical and savannah specimens. Succulents Collection www.foerderverein.ch : on Mythenquai - pre eminent display of 5000 specimens - free admission - plant sales - park near here to walk along lake through Arboretum into town - en route visit the Voliere aviary. Friedhof Fl ü ntern : cemetery where James Joyce is buried - lived in Zürich 1915 -1919 and returned just before his death in 1941 - statue shows him sitting cross legged with book. Museum f ü r Gest ä ltung (Design Museum) : in Ausstellungstrasse - graphic design poster art and photography. Johan Jacobs Museum : lakeside exhibition of art and of artefacts relating to tea and coffee consumption. Uhrenmuseum Beyer www.beyer-ch.com : beneath jewellery shop at 31 Bahnhofstrasse - largest private collection of clocks and watches in Switzerland. Rietberg Museum : eclectic collection of art from Asia Africa and America - housed in 1857 villa once occupied by Richard Wagner in parkland within walking distance of town centre - regular exhibitions. Rote Fabrik : erstwhile silk mill on Seestrasse - centre of political activity in 1980s but now (semi) respectable - arts centre small businesses and café in interesting surroundings. Kilchberg Church : author Thomas Mann lived in Kilchberg towards end of his life - he and his wife are buried in peaceful and beautifully maintained churchyard. Lindt & Spr ü ngli chocolate factory : in Kilchberg - free museum on lake - disappointingly no factory tour - notes in English available - free chocolate samples - not really worth a detour just for this but the cut price chocolate shop definitely is - the Swiss are world chocolate champions eating 12.3 kg each annually. Uetliberg: Zürich's Hausberg (home mountain) above Adliswil - rises to 870m - can be reached by S10 train - 30m viewing tower at Uto Kulm affords great views - 3 km sledging run in winter - take the Planetenweg - 5 km walk featuring representations of planets on 1:1 billion scale - return to earth at Adliswil on Felsenegg cable car (in the Pluto area). Dolder Woods and Sonnenberg: on opposite (and sunnier) side of lake from Uetliberg - gentle walks through trees - abundant birdlife - rickety wooden observation tower near Dolder Grand Hotel - 19th century gothic style pile in commanding position resurrected by British architect Norman Foster - FIFA HQ is next door. Greifensee: gentler landscape of Zürichsee’s neighbour - 20km walk around - boat trips. Albis*: unspoilt countryside close to city - striking panorama above Mettmenstetten - gentle walks in all directions from Albis village with excellent lake views - fantastic sledge run in winter - Seleger Moor www.selegermoor.ch has rhododendrons azaleas and gardens - plant sales - ideal outing for green fingered grannies particularly in May . (ZH) Hirzel*: area around village where Johanna Spyri (author of ‘Heidi’) grew up - 765m - 'Dach des Kantons Zürich' - good walking and cycling country - try route from Horgenberg to Hirzel Höchi for 360 degree aspect of 116 peaks - bucolic scenery - characteristic rounded hills of glacial moraine topped with single linden trees planted by farmers in honour of eldest sons - engaging museum (free admission) in Johanna Spyri's schoolhouse (1660) next to church (1617): www.johanna-spyri-museum.ch . (ZH)

A Short Walk Through Z ü rich Take Bahnhofstrasse (qv) from the main Station. Just after the Orell Füssli English bookshop take the left fork along Rennweg (this marks the point of entry through the old city wall) and bear round left at the end. Take the steep steps to the left after the Opus restaurant up to Lindenhof (qv) to admire the views of the city. Descend the steps and continue, bearing right towards St Peter's church with its huge clock face (qv). With the church to your right turn left down Thermengasse which passes over the excavated remains of a Roman bath to Storchengasse: turn right and continue to the square at Münsterhof. At the Zünfthaus zur Meisen in 1946 Sir Winston Churchill gave a famous speech coining the phrase 'the United States of Europe': the building is now part of the Swiss National Museum and houses a ceramics collection. Make a detour to see the Chagall and Giacometti stained glass windows in the Fraumünster (qv). (At this point you can follow the river straight along to the lake at Bürkliplatz where you can either catch a boat (qv) or walk along the lake in either direction. The excellent Kunsthaus (Art Gallery) (qv) is directly up the hill from Bellevue if you cross the river to the left. If you walk along the left bank promenade for 15 minutes passing a 1964 Tinguely sculpture ‘Heureka’, a work by Henry Moore entitled ‘Sheep Piece’ and a multicoloured steel and glass pavilion designed by Le Corbusier, you come to Zürichhorn Park and Casino where there is a good café overlooking the lake. On the way you will also see the slightly bizarre Chinese Garden which was a gift from Zürich’s Twin Town of Kunming.) Otherwise, cross the river at the Fraumünster and visit Zwingli's Grossmünster(qv).Then go left and wander along Münstergasse/Niederdorfstrasse (qv) with its multitude of shops and restaurants. After a while take any left turn down to Limmatquai and cross the river on the Rudolf-Brun (road) bridge. Immediately after doing this take the steps down left on to Schipfe (just before the Swiss handicrafts shop). This was the centre of the silk making industry. Continue until you come to Weinplatz and the Hotel Storchen where Mozart once stayed.This used to be Zürich's main thoroughfare. Follow Wühre along the river to the Fraumünster and then turn right across Münsterhof, continuing straight on until you hit Bahnhofstrasse. Turn right and return to the station. If you have time to spare, the Swiss National Museum (qv) is directly behind the Hauptbahnhof building (qv).

(Allow 2 hours)

Section 7 - Luzern

Tourist Information www.luzern.org www.luzern.ch www.kulturluzern.ch : office situated at side of Station - bike hire available - lakeside route towards Horw and Winkel recommended - fan shaped apartment block at Schönbühl won international plaudits for Finnish architect Alvar Aalto. Stroll around Town: 2 hours - English/German - daily except Sunday in season - Wednesdays and Saturdays otherwise - from Tourist Office. Virtual tour: www.luzern-by-byte.ch City Train www.citytrain.ch - rather incongruous and Disneyesque 40 minute tour of town in string of carriages - board at Hotel Schweizerhof. Boat trips on Lake Lucerne/ Vierwaldst ä ttersee*(lake of the 4 wooded cantons) www.lakelucerne.ch: an institution since 1837 - 20 boats - 6 paddle steamers - some over 100 years old - most renovated in 1970s at cost of 6 million francs funded by private donation - the Gallia is fastest steamer on a European lake - tickets can be pricey - check for special offers - fondue chinoise/sushi ships - Sunday Breakfast boat - folklore - conducted walks - excursions with children - unforgettable way to visit Pilatus Bürgenstock Weggis and Rigi (see section 1) - moonlight playing on the lake inspired Beethoven’s piano sonata. Old Town (Altstadt ): cobbled fountained squares with colourful facades on right bank of River Reuss. Picasso Museum : gift to city on its 800th anniversary from Siegfried and Angela Rosengart (whom Picasso painted 5 times)- late works and 200 photographs by David Douglas Duncan - worth visiting for building alone - Am-Rhyn House - built in 1618 in Renaissance style. Chapel Bridge (Kapellbr ü cke)*: Luzern’s defining landmark named after St Peter‘s Chapel nearby - originally constructed in 1333 - 560 feet long - octagonal 34 metre high water tower was formerly a prison and torture chamber - beautifully restored after devastating fire in 1993 - 112 painted panels by Heinrich Wagmann show scenes from city and Swiss history with donors’ coats of arms - 30 are originals - remainder are facsimiles printed on Ilford chrome classic deluxe paper. Rathaus (Town Hall): 1602-1606 - above the riverside arcades of Unter der Egg - on Kornmarkt - unique mix of architectural styles from Anton Isenmann - classic Renaissance style building topped with roof of Entlebuch farmhouse.

Z ü nfthaus zu Pfistern: former Guild Hall now a restaurant with Swiss specialities - exterior has mural of tree decorated with local coats of arms - interior is equally atmospheric. Zentralgef ä ngnis (Central Prison): 1860-1862 - curious because it now houses Hotel Löwengraben ( www.loewengraben.ch) where you can stay in a converted cell - used for prisoners as recently as 1998. Musegg battlements: 1350-1408 - walk along 870m of the City Wall from Spreuer Bridge - three of the varied nine towers open to public in summer - vertiginous climbs - Männli Tower has 125 steps -oldest city clock on Zyt Tower chimes 1 minute before others in town. N ä delwehr (Water Spike)*: dating from 1859 - 175 pinewood ‘needles’ strung across river- each 3.5m long - still used to regulate level of lake - modern power plant nearby produces hydro-electricity for 1500 households when it is not silted up. Spreuer Bridge*: 1408 - further down the Reuss - less well known but equally interesting with 67 macabre paintings by Kaspar Meglinger illustrating the ‘Dance of Death’ - heavy on skeletons - commemorates city plague - named after wheat chaff thrown into river nearby. Historical Museum www.hmluzern.ch: cantonal museum for cultural history and folklore - housed in former city arsenal - emphasis on weaponry including Zwingli’s helmet and sword - guided tours. Natural History Museum www.naturmuseum.ch: live animals - regular exhibitions - look for procession of giant ants on exterior. Kleinstadt : on left bank - much quieter area with many historical buildings - find the Apothecary’s shop straight out of Harry Potter’s Diagon Alley in Bahnhofstrasse. Franciscan Church: 13th Century - oldest building in Luzern - Gothic/Medieval style - ornate Baroque pulpit - flag frescoes. Ritter Palace: 1557 - former Jesuit College - now seat of Cantonal government - built in Florentine style - intriguing internal columned courtyard reminiscent of an Escher drawing. Jesuit Church: 1666-1677 - first large baroque church in Switzerland - ‘ Rococo explosion of gilt, marble and epic frescoes ‘ (Fodor) - red stucco altar (1681) - central ceiling painting of St Francis Xavier - distinctive onion domes added in 1893 - always open - frequent concerts. Theatre www.luzerner-theater.ch : varied and sometimes avant garde productions - plays, operas, musicals and dance. Rosengart-Sammlung www.rosengart.ch: excellent art collection in Pilatusstrasse - housed in 1924 Empire style neoclassical bank building - 200 works including 50 by Picasso - outstanding exhibition of more than 100 works by Paul Klee. Bahnhofplatz: dominated by original archway entrance to station building which burned down in 1971 - new building designed by Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava who was also responsible for the acclaimed Stadelhofen station in Zürich - huge 1928 Barraud fresco entitled ‘North and South’ was expensively reinstalled opposite Monopol Hotel . Kultur- und Kongress-zentrum (KKL)* www.kkl-luzern.ch : 1998 concert hall - spectacular architecture by Jean Nouvel - red blue and green exterior with 12000 sqm cantilevered roof - interior features include moats bridges and use of a ‘symphony’ of five different woods - exceptional acoustics achieved through fifty two echo chambers and sheets of red velvet draped over ladders - guided tours available .

Kunstmuseum www.kunstmuseumluzern.ch: predominantly modern artworks - emphasis on Swiss works from 19th and 20th centuries including many by Swiss artist Ferdinand Hodler - regular exhibitions - good café . Hofkirche : twin spired landmark of Luzern built during 30 Years War - architecture reflects transition from Gothic to Baroque with Romanesque towers and Renaissance style roof - main doors flanked by patron saints of Luzern - St. Leodegar and St. Maurice - huge organ with 4950 pipes and facility to mimic rain thunder and hail - Florentine style Cloister - Rothenburgerhaus nearby is oldest intact wooden building in Switzerland dating from 1500. Bourbaki-Panorama* www.panorama-luzern.ch : unusual 16 sided cylindrical building - houses largest (110m) round panoramic mural in the world by Edouard Castres - completed in 1889 - precursor to cinema - depicts retreat of French army into Switzerland in 1870 - moving atmosphere - infinitely better than it sounds. Alpineum : antique (1900) 3 dimensional depiction of the Alps- visit only if desperate or wet. Glacier Garden : dating (and dated) from 1872 - enjoyable if 20 million year old glacial potholes are your thing - national monument - rather worthy museum in interesting old house - look out for the oldest large scale relief map of Switzerland (1762-86) by created by Franz Ludwig Pfyffer von Wyher without any artificial aids - recently scientifically proved to be accurate - Goethe visited Luzern especially to see it - ‘Alhambra style’ labyrinth of mirrors (1896) offers fun for all - garden - café. Lion Monument*: hewn out of natural sandstone in 1821 by Danish sculptor Thorwaldsen - one of Luzern’s earliest tourist attractions - commemorates death of Swiss mercenaries in 1792 - very stirring and tranquil when (rarely) no one else is around - inscribed with words ‘helvetorium fidei ac virtuti’ (‘to the loyalty and bravery of the Swiss’) - Mark Twain described it as ‘the saddest and most poignant piece of rock in the world’. Lakeside walks : 45 minutes in either direction from Station is worth the (minimal) effort. Verkehrshaus (National Transport Museum) www.verkehrshaus.org: most comprehensive collection in Europe and most popular Swiss museum - locomotives - Gotthard Tunnel presentation - simulators. IMAX www.imax.ch : 3D cinema - only one in Switzerland -19x25m screen - 22000 watts - opened via satellite by astronaut John Glenn in 1969 - regular performances in English. Planetarium : next to IMAX - unique in Switzerland. Hans Erni Museum: over 300 works by Swiss humanist artist (born in 1909) in various media. Lidostrandbad : beach - playground - swimming pool - restaurant - mini golf - great position - very lively. Chateau G ü tsch - gothic style edifice (only built in 1888) with commanding views of town - once a rather ghastly and overpriced hotel and restaurant - in 1868 Queen Victoria booked into nearby Wallis Boarding house as 'Countess of Kent' giving Luzern prominence as a fashionable holiday destination. Richard Wagner Museum : magnificent house on lake at Tribschen overlooking town - exhibition of musical instruments - composer lived here with Cosima von Bulow from 1866 to 1872 - Siegfried Idyll was gift to her on birth of their son - also worked on Die Meistersinger, Der Ring and Gotterdämmerung here - ‘I do not know of a more beautiful spot in this world’.

A Short Walk through Luzern

Start at the Station (Bahnhof) (qv). The Tourist Information Office (qv) is situated here. To the side is the stunningly but controversially designed Concert Hall (qv) and the Art Museum (qv) - not for traditionalists either. Cross the river by the road bridge (Seebrücke) and follow the promenade round to the right under the chestnut trees in front of the grand Belle Epoque hotels and casino. There are some pretty places to eat and beautiful views over the water. Double back and cross the main road after passing the National Hotel. Strike up Löwenstrasse . On the right are the distinctive twin spires of the medieval Hofkirche (qv) and the highly rated vegetarian Hofgarten Hotel . After a couple of minutes you come to the strangely shaped Bourbaki Panorama (qv) which houses the largest round panoramic mural in the world. This is very much better than it sounds. So too is the Lion Monument (qv) which is just a hundred metres further on: it is hewn out of the natural sandstone cliff face and is very moving and tranquil when no one is around. The nearby Glacier Garden and Alpineum museums (qv) are rather dated and probably only worth seeing if you're short of things to do. Return to Löwenplatz at the front of the Panorama. Cross the road here, bearing left and then taking the second (traffic free) road to the right - Hertensteinstrasse. This is the main shopping area although there are also some good shops including Globus on Pilatusstrasse near to the Station. Follow the road at your own pace into the Old Town (Altstadt): you will eventually come to the picturesque Weinmarkt where there are some beautiful medieval frescoes and a Craft Market on the first Saturday of each month. Luzern's Oath of Allegiance was sworn here with Uri Schwyz and Unterwalden. Carrying on towards the river you'll reach the lesser known but equally interesting of the town's two wooden bridges - Spreuerbrücke (qv). This is still in its original state (unlike its more illustrious companion) and has some extremely macabre paintings portraying Death as a skeleton. At this point if you are feeling energetic you could take the road to the right and climb up to the city wall (Musegg) (qv) where you can scale several of the towers (not for the faint hearted). Otherwise cross the bridge and take the narrow path immediately to the left along the river to get the full effect of the rushing water. Once the path broadens out you can take an optional 'loop' to the right into the quiet and picturesque Kleinstadt (qv): see whether you can find the immaculately preserved apothecary's shop on Bahnhofstrasse which looks like something out of 'Harry Potter'. Staying on the river you will pass in front of the baroque Jesuit Church (qv) which is worth a visit. Take the metal Reussbrücke back over the river. There are lots of restaurants here- some better than others. One particular favourite is the Brauerei which has tremendous atmosphere and home brewed beer. On Tuesdays and Saturdays you can visit the excellent fruit and vegetable market. Climb the steps: to your right is the Rathaus (qv). Don’t forget to look up to see the elaborate clock tower . Follow either road to the right down to Kapellplatz continuing to admire the ambience and architecture (if you haven't had enough by now) and then take a right turn in front of the church to Luzern's defining landmark: the wooden bridge (Kapellbrücke)(qv). This is quite extraordinary if only for the immense feat of restoration which took place after a devastating fire in 1993. There are 112 triangular panels (some original) which show scenes from Swiss history. Fight your way across through the camera toting hordes and return left to the Bahnhof .

(Allow 90 minutes).

Section 8 - Zug

Tourist Office www.zug-tourismus.ch: situated in front of Station - guided tours and bike rental available - building (2003) designed by Klaus Hornberger - stunning lighting installation by James Turrell. Old Town (Altstadt)*: - small but perfectly formed - presents welcome contrast to high rise bustle of new town - Landesgemeindeplatz on lakeside has exceptional views towards Rigi and Pilatus with the Eiger far beyond - restaurants and well tended aviaries. St Oswalds Church: baroque (1478). Art Gallery (Kunsthaus) www.museenzug.ch: varied exhibitions of 20th century art. Museum in der Burg www.museenzug.ch: fairy tale shaped building housing religious art and historical craftwork and furniture. Afrika-Museum;: masks jewellery musical instruments and stuffed animals. Rathaus: of late gothic design dating from 1509 - now houses very upmarket restaurant. Clock Tower (Zytturm): 1557 - 52m high - astronomical clock - look for painting of rat on high - in Kolinplatz near fountain to commemorate Swiss Army flag bearer in 1422. Fishing Museum: in Untergasse (Altstadt) - open some weekends in March to May. Zugerberg*: 1039m - take funicular from edge of town - walks - picnics - 360 degree views -sledging in winter - 2.7km Schlittelbahn - 23km of cross country skiing - restaurant. Zugersee www.zugersee-info.ch : swimming - 18 to 22° - water-skiing - pedalo(e?)s - boat trips .

Section 9 - Further Afield

Appenzellerland www.appenzell.ch : undulating rural area south of St Gallen - great walking and pungent cheese making country - traditional architecture - dominated by S ä ntis www.saentisbahn.ch - 2052m peak with 360 degree views over 6 countries. (AI/AR) Walensee: dramatically situated lake often ignored in rush to ski slopes - great walk from Weesen to car free village of Quinten which has a subtropical climate - waterfalls and unspoilt scenery - family ski resort of Amden lies above and good walking area on Kerenserberg is opposite. (SG) Braunwald www.braunwald.ch : peaceful traffic free village above Linthal reached via steep cogwheel railway - great walks overlooked by peak of Tödi (3614m) - horse drawn carriages - family skiing - 7 lifts/25 km of pistes.( GL) Bad Ragaz: pretty spa resort with grand mountain views - mentioned in ‘Heidi’ - neat boulevards - manicured golf course and exclusive hotels - baths at 37 degrees Celsius. (SG) Scuol www.scuol.ch :charming spa town hidden in beautiful Lower Engadin* valley - well preserved old town - houses with typical sgraffiti (frescoed walls) - varied winter skiing - downhill biking in summer - probably the best Trotti bike course* in Switzerland runs through meadows for forty five minutes (depending on speed and physical capacity) - surrounding villages are enchanting - area is a bastion of Romansh language - many Swiss choose to holiday here.(GR) Interlaken www.interlakentourism.ch: between Thunersee and Brienzersee - venerable Swiss resort and another favoured location for Bollywood films - slightly dull although Alfred Lord Byron was an afficionado - and Mendelssohn: ‘anyone who has not seen the scenery which surround Interlaken does not know Switzerland’ - neighbouring areas are indeed more exciting (note following entries).(BE) Grindelwald www.grindelwald.ch: lively town in winter and summer - good views of the Eiger - in winter 213 km of downhill pistes and 20km of cross country trails. BE) Lauterbrunnen www.lauterbrunnen.ch: exceptionally attractive mountain valley - 72 waterfalls including Trummelbach (7 cascades viewed from inside mountain - up to 20000 litres per second ) and 280m Staubbach (on outskirts of village) which Byron likened to ‘the tail of the pale horse ridden by Death in the Apocalypse’. (BE) M ü rren/Schilthorn: www.schilthorn.ch: traffic free ski resort perched on ledge above Lauterbrunnen - highest continuously inhabited village in area - discovered by Victorian tourists in 1840s and birthplace of slalom skiing in 1922 - 16 runs/50km pistes -Inferno Run descends 2150m in 15.8km - Sport and Balloon Museum - dramatic 360 degree views from Schilthorn (2923m) in winter (sometimes) and summer (likewise) – James Bond visited Piz Gloria - world’s first revolving restaurant - on Her Majesty’s Secret Service. (BE) Wengen www.wengen.com: another pretty traffic free village at 1274m - reached by train from Lauterbrunnen - perfect skiing and walking country - hosts longest World Cup Downhill ski race annually on Lauberhorn - 4.25km.(BE) Jungfrau (‘the virgin’) www.jungfraubahn.ch: 4258m - reached via highest railway station in Europe at 3454m - much of ascent is in 7.12km tunnel - overrated and horrifyingly expensive - good weather essential together with warm clothes stout shoes and sunglasses - 16 per cent oxygen deficit at top - inordinately popular with tour groups - revolving restaurant and Ice Palace - 19m below surface - Aletsch Glacier is longest in Alps - marvel at sight of Europe’s highest Post Office - views of the Eiger (‘the ogre’) - 3970m - and of Münch (‘the monk’) - 4099m. (BE) Brienz* www.alpenregion.ch : on Brienzersee - ‘best place between Interlaken and Lucerne’ (Brienzer publicity literature) - Wood Carving School (Schnitzlerschule) - guided tours available - violin making centre - musical box exhibition at the Jobin Living Museum - Lötscher cuckoo clocks (a German invention) are made here out of 3 year old linden wood - Huggler specialise in nativity scenes - original home of Sbrinz cheese - Switzerland's parmesan - typical Berner Oberland architecture - lovely promenade along lake with good places to eat - paddle steamers on lake - unique steam railway up the Rothorn (2350m) with average gradient of 22.5% - www.brienz-rothorn-bahn.ch (BE) Giessbach Falls: Victorian tourist attraction accessible by boat on Brienzersee and funicular - very spectacular - possible to walk underneath. (BE)

Meiringen : birthplace of the meringue and home to the spectacular Reichenbach Falls where Sherlock Holmes and Moriarty fictionally met their deaths in 'The Final Problem' (1891) (Holmes was later resurrected by popular demand) - take ancient funicular railway to top - ‘a tremendous abyss….an immense chasm lined by glistening coal-black rock and narrowing into a creaming boiling pit of incalculable depth’ - Sherlock Holmes Museum (in Anglican Church in Conan Doyle Place) includes life size replica of detective’s study at 221b Baker Street - statue of Holmes holds clues to all 60 stories - follow dramatic 45 minute walk through Aare Gorge* - 195m deep and 1600m long - galleries walkways grottoes precipices and arches - floodlit in summer . (BE) Emmental www.emmental.ch : very traditional area - interesting architecture and countryside - exploration with llamas is possible - try the distinctive local cuisine - cheese factory at Affoltern - open 365 days a year - www.showdairy.ch - ‘full of busloads of excitable Swiss old ladies’ (Rough Guide) - good restaurant serving Swiss specialities (including cheese breakfasts) - only 2.5% of world’s Emmental cheese is now produced in Switzerland. (BE) Gruyeres www.gruyeres.ch: perfectly preserved but often crowded medieval village on craggy outcrop - castle includes room used by Corot and decorated by him - le Gruyere cheese is made in Gruyeres (sic) in region of La Gruyere (sic) - working dairy in Pringy - www.lamaisondugruyere.ch - raise your cholesterol level even further with detour to Nestle chocolate factory at Broc - dramatised presentation factory tour and free samples . (VD) Ascona* : through Gotthard tunnel (choose time carefully to avoid monumental queues) to a contrasting world and Switzerland‘s lowest point at 196m -on Lake Maggiore - labyrinth of cobbled lanes with specialist shops and art galleries - take trolley ride around town - bike hire available - atmospheric restaurants - take boat to romantic islands of Brissago. (TI) Lugano www.lugano-tourism.ch: third largest financial centre in Switzerland has Italianate piazzas and tree lined promenades and cosmopolitan atmosphere - ‘far and away the most alluring of Ticino’s lake resorts’ (Rough Guide) - 2300 hours of sunshine annually - great ice cream and pastries - lake steamers - take funicular up to San Salvatore - have lunch - walk down - good art gallery - Swiss Customs Museum - visit home of Hermann Hesse in Montagnola www.hessemontagnola.ch (TI) Swiss Miniature Park www.swiss-miniatur.ch : in Melide-Lugano - shows Switzerland at 1:25 scale over 11000 sqm - 3.5km model railway. (TI) Europa Park www.europa-park.de: in Rust (Germany) - nearest you’ll get to Orlando this side of the rösti ditch - roller coasters - laser shows - water rides - costumed characters - entertainment - hotels and restaurants - combined rail tickets available. Tripsdrill:der Erlebnispark www.tripsdrill.de: Cleebronn/Tripsdrill (Germany) - water rafting - roller coasters - zoo - restaurants.

Section 10 - Seasonal events Fasnacht in Luzern* www.luzerner-fasnacht.ch: weekend before Lent - begins on Thursday at 0500 on Kapellplatz -several days of vast processions - up to 100 bands playing Güüggenmusik - dressing up and uncharacteristic silliness - quite unmissable (at least for the first couple of years) - Basel has Protestant version couple of weeks later. Z ü rich Spring Festival (Sechsel ä uten) : 3rd Monday in April - parade of members from 25 guilds in traditional costume followed at 1800h by burning of Böögg (snowman stuffed with fireworks) at Bellevue - speed with which its head explodes foreshadows end of winter. LUGA www.lumag.ch: April - huge agricultural and business exhibition held at Allend Luzern - fun fairground - interesting food - gives real insight into everyday Swiss life . Z ü rich Marathon: run in April along Lake - Start and Finish is at Landiwiese. Cow migration*: Alpanzug/Alpabzug in late spring and autumn - in every village herds are seasonally taken up to and brought back from the pastures with simply beautiful ceremony - animals wear flowered headdresses and huge bells . Circuses: a Swiss institution - not recommended for members of animal rights organisations or anyone interested in health and safety at work but very entertaining - Circus Knie is pre eminent and comes to Zürich each May - www.knie.ch - Cirque du Soleil * (quite another kettle of fish - no animals for a start) is an annual visitor to Zürich in autumn. Rose d’Or Festival: international TV Festival in Luzern in May - spot celebrities in town - Bob Geldof, Harry Belafonte and Roger Moore are recent visitors. Luzern Altstadfest: 4th weekend in June - music food and folklore. Z ü rich Festival www.zuercher-festspiele.ch :in June - music and drama throughout city - huge fairground - fireworks. Rapperswil Blues and Jazz Festival: annually in June. Z ü rich In-Line Skating Marathon www.swiss-inline-cup.ch : annually in June. Lucerne Blue Balls Festival www.blueballs.ch : July - wide variety of Blues music and events - very lively in town - big names performing. Z ü rich Triathlon annually in July - incorporates Iron Man event - don’t miss cycling section up ‘Heartbreak Hill’ in Kilchberg. Swiss National Day: August 1st - bonfires, decorations and celebrations everywhere - gathering of Swiss citizens on Rütli Meadow (qv) - spectacular fireworks over Rhine Falls. Seenachtsfest: second weekend in August - vast fireworks display over lake in Luzern. Z ü rich Street Parade www.streetparade.ch: August - a distinctly adult day of techno music and hedonism - not for those of a delicate disposition. R ü schlikon Swim: mid August - annual mass swim across Zürichsee. Limmat Swim www.limmatschwimmen.ch :late August - organised float (with aid of inflatables) from Frauenbad 2 km down river - 4000 participants. Lucerne Festival* : www.lucernefestival.ch August/September - world class most music - founded by Arturo Toscanini and others in 1932 - don’t turn down tickets - also Easter festival and piano event in November. Z ü rich World Cup Athletics www.weltklasse.ch : annually in August. Rowing Championships Rotsee Luzern*: regular world class events held here throughout summer on the perfectly formed ‘Lake of the Gods’ - a must for those with a penchant for men in lycra (also perfectly formed…) Freestyle www.freestyle.ch : large scale gathering on Zürich’s Landiwiese for devotees of snowboarding skateboarding and bmx bikes - large scale downhill snow slope is erected. Willisau Jazz Festival: annually in September. Z ü rich Autofrei Day www.multimobil.ch : end of September - no cars allowed in town - numerous special events - go karting basketball wrestling pavement art - free entry to museums on production of public transport ticket. Chilbis: September/October- local autumn fairs held in each village - music and food. Knabenschiessen: www.knabenschiessen.ch Zürich school students' shooting competition on Albisgütli in September - largest Chilbi in Switzerland - 400 year old tradition. Z ü rcher Theater Spektakel www.theaterspektakel.ch : all types of cutting edge drama on Landiwiese each August/September. Leodegar Fair Luzern: October - stalls and fairground on the Inseli near Station. Ruebli processions: held in most Zürich communities in October - children parade with pumpkin lanterns - particularly good in Richterswil. Expovina www.expovina.ch : October/November - wine festival held at Bürkliplatz on a dozen Zürichsee ships. Zwiebelmarkt (Onion Market): 4th Monday in November in Bern - mass swim in River Aare on previous day - carnival atmosphere - stalls draped with garlands of onions. Kerzenziehen : beeswax candle dipping on Bürkliplatz in November and December - over 150 tonnes of wax and 400 km of wick have been used in last 30 years. Live on Ice www.liveonice.ch: ice skating in courtyard of Zürich’s Landesmuseum -free admission. Chlaus-J ä gd in K ü ssnacht am Rigi: strikingly dramatic procession celebrating arrival of Samichlaus (Santa Claus) on 5th December - 800 men with huge bells and whips - lots of noise and elaborate illuminated headdresses. Christmas Markets: most towns have these - Willisau (LU) is strongly recommended - also Einsiedeln (SZ) and Strasbourg and Colmar in France - Zürich Hauptbahnhof hosts Europe’s largest indoor event - market stalls also in Niederdorf and Bürkliplatz. Singing Christmas Tree www.singing-christmastree.ch: ingenious choir venue in front of Globus on Pestalozziplatz - participants must wear red woollen hats - see it for yourself. Luzern ChristmasTree Market: extraordinary myriad of trees on Schweizerhofquai. Lichterschwimmen: floating candles on River Limmat at Rathaus in mid December. Silvesterlauf : annual run in December through Zürich's Altstadt - courses range from 1.4 to 9.1 km with all ages and abilities catered for. New Year’s Eve Fireworks www.silvesterzauber.ch : all over the place but particularly spectacular by lake in Zürich.

Section 11 - Skiing (just the tip of the glacier) Engelberg* www.engelberg.ch : 1000-3239m - 24 lifts/80 km of pistes - very easy to reach - not really a beginners’ resort except when very snowy - decent range of runs - frequently plagued by snowboarders - at weekends best to go early (see also section 1). (NW) Klewenalp/Stockh ü tte www.klewenalp.ch: 2404m - 9 lifts/40km of pistes - family skiing - close to Luzern - free parking - in summer: walks - playground - restaurants - small zoo - traditional events - accessible by boat to Beckenried . (NW) Andermatt www.andermatt.ch: 1448-2963m - 34 lifts/166 km of pistes - see 600 Alpine peaks from top - main alpine training area for Swiss army - quite challenging runs. Meiringen-Hasliberg www.alpenregion.ch: 1061-2433m - 22 lifts/80 km of pistes - unspoilt village at top of Brünig pass - very popular with families - extensive nursery slopes - long toboggan run - good range of runs for all. Melchsee/Frutt www.melchsee-frutt.ch: 1080-2255m - 11 lifts/32 km of pistes - ideal for beginner snowboarders - in summer eerily reminiscent of a frontier town although great walks are on offer - three mountain lakes. (OW) Hoch Ybrig www.ybrig.ch : 1035 - 1856m - 8 lifts/50 km of pistes - great views of Vierwaldstättersee . (SZ) Nollen (Unteraegeri): sledging - nursery slopes - 2 lifts - 18 km of cross country trails. (ZG) Elm* www.elm.ch : 962 - 2105m - 7 lifts/35 km of pistes - charming Swiss atmosphere - good family skiing - very easy to reach from Zürich via Glarus. (GL) Flumserberg: 1200-2222m - 17 lifts/65 km of pistes - particularly convenient for all points north of Zug - good selection of runs - horribly crowded at weekends. (ZH) Klosters* www.klosters.ch: 810 - 2844m - 53 lifts/344 km of pistes - classic resort with royal seal of approval - Madrisa for beginners and Gotschna for more experienced - quiet and pretty village - varied summer sports - beautifully situated open air swimming pool - horsedrawn carriage rides - starting point for classic train rides on the Rhätische Bahn.(GR) Davos www.davos.ch: 1520 - 2844m - 53 lifts/344 km of pistes - linked to Klosters but architecturally not as picturesque - town owes initial prosperity to establishment of sanatoria in 19th century - downhill skiing was originally developed here - now famous for attracting the Great and Good to its annual Economic Forum. (GR) Lenzerheide/Valbella www.lenzerheide.ch: 1200 - 2865m - 37 lifts/155 km of pistes - good skiing on both sides of valley. (GR) Flims/Laax/Falera www.flims.ch: 1100 - 3020m - 29 lifts/220 km of pistes - had first chairlift in Europe (1945) - skiing for all levels - lots of snowboarders - pretty villages. (GR) Sedrun 1450-2350m - 12 lifts/50 km of - traditional village near Andermatt. Savognin 1200m - 2440m - 23 lifts/80 km of pistes. St Moritz www.skiengadin.ch: 1800 - 3300m - 60 lifts/350 km of pistes - glitzy world class resort but town itself is pretty grim - 4 distinct areas - Silvaplana is more low key and much prettier.(GR) Zermatt www.zermatt.ch: 1600 - 3895m - 71 lifts/394 km of pistes - pre eminent resort - tricky to get to - international. Verbier www.verbier.ch : 1500- 3330m - 94 lifts/410 km of pistes - chalet resort - extensive skiing area - connections sometimes difficult - cosmopolitan and lively village. (GR)

Section 12 - What to do in Liechtenstein

Background Liechtenstein is a curiosity: a sovereign state the size of Manhattan lying an hour's drive from Zürich with no formal border between the two countries. Visitors expecting a remote and romantic Ruritarian principality will probably be disappointed. Its mere existence and continued influence are however intriguing - and unique. Liechtenstein's economy is founded on financial services, sausage skins and false teeth. It supports 90000 'letter box' companies. Although per capita it is one of the world's richest nations there are only three which are smaller (San Marino, Nauru and Tuvalu). It occupies an area which is twenty five kilometres long and a maximum of six kilometres wide at an altitude ranging between 430 metres and 2599 metres. Along with Uzbekistan it is doubly landlocked. It is the only country to be named after its purchasers: a Viennese dynasty acquired it in the 18th century to secure its place within the German Diet of Princes and then did not visit for 150 years. The population is 33717 a third of whom are foreigners. In 1996 there was 1.1% unemployment (227 jobless). The religious distribution is 80% Catholic 7% Protestant and 13% 'other'. Comprising eleven Gemeinden (local authorities) Liechtenstein's system of government is described as 'a hereditary constitutional monarchy on democratic and parliamentary basis'. His Serene Highness Hans Adam II von und zu Liechtenstein is the world's only German speaking monarch. He has extensive executive powers. The designation 'FL' on cars stands for Fürstentum (Principality of) Liechtenstein. Somewhat unexpectedly the tune of the National Anthem is the same as that of its British counterpart. National Day is celebrated on 15th August each year. The country joined the UN in 1990 and the EEA in 1995 but there are no plans to become a member of the EU. Women were eventually given the vote in 1984. There are close links with Switzerland. The River Rhine forms the border between the two countries. Since 1923 there has been a customs treaty which means that there are no formalities on travelling between them. They share a common currency and have an integrated telephone postal and transport system. There is no direct train service: travellers from Switzerland must catch a bus in Sargans. Unlike its neighbour, Liechtenstein has no military service or army. In 1998 there were only 4 deaths from accident or violence.

Vaduz The capital of Liechtenstein has a population of 5070. Apart from the commanding sight of the Fürst's castle nestling on the spectacular crags above (not open to the public) it is all a bit of an anticlimax as the centre of town is bland in the extreme. The very short main shopping street is traffic free and generally peopled with disconsolate refugees from coachtours. You can take a Citytour on a miniature motorised train or catch a white London taxi from Goethe Guided Tours. Alternatively you could pay 150 CHF a day for a local resident to join you in your own vehicle. There is a Stamp Museum, Ski Museum and the Landesmuseum. The Art Gallery houses a broad selection from the Prince's collection inside a brooding slab of basalt. Along the road is the royal vineyard - Hofkellerei des Fürsten von Liechtenstein . The prevailing warm Föhn wind is good for the cultivation of grapes. At Neuguthof you can visit the Maislabyrinth - a maze made of...... maize. The highlight for vistors to Vaduz will undoubtedly be a trip to the Tourist Office where - for a small fee - they can have their passport stamped.

Malbun The ski resort where Prince Charles and Princess Anne first braved the nursery slopes lies at 1600 m rising to the 2000m high Sareiserjoch. It has 21 pistes, 2 chairlifts and 4 draglifts. There is also the opportunity for cross country skiing. The attractions of the village include the Falknerei Galina where there are daily falconry shows in summer and a 1940s Peace Chapel. This is good walking country: it is possible to cross into Austria on foot or to follow the circular Fürstin Gina Weg.

Triesenberg This village at 1428m was colonised by the German speaking Walsers from Valais and a local dialect still persists. There are a number of old wooden houses and an onion domed church.

Other things to do in Liechtenstein Go in line skating on the Rheindamm. Walk from Nendeln to Planken - this takes 2 hours passing the Gafadunhütte at 1428m. Visit the pottery at Nendeln which was founded in 1836. Have a trip to the ruined castle at Schellenburg or Balzers Castle. Errr.... that's it.

Some interesting Liechtenstein facts In Liechtenstein there are: 90km of bike routes 400km of footpaths 1600 sorts of flowers 46 species of orchids 55 types of mammals 140 species birds 17 types of bats 65 varieties of midges

Foreign women marrying Liechtensteiners have to wait 12 years for a passport.

The Gemeinden (local authority areas) in Liechtenstein are: Balzers Escheron Gampuin Mauren Planken Ruggell Schaan Schellenberg Triesen Triesenberg and Vaduz.

Football is very popular - the national Stadium holds only 3500 spectators but is presently being expanded. The progress of the country's team through the 1998 European Championships was meticulously charted by Charlie Connolly in his book 'Stamping Grounds'.

Every 6 years Liechtenstein takes part in the Small States Games. These are open to European Countries with a population of less than 1 million including San Marino Monaco Cyprus Andorra Malta Luxembourg and Iceland. Ten sports are included - athletics basketball judo sailing shooting squash swimming table tennis tennis and volleyball - and Liechtenstein will play host at the next Games in 2011.

The Little Big One Festival attracts top rank performers each year: recent artists include Status Quo and Van Morrison.

An Erlebnisspass Liechtenstein gives concessions on the costs of transport museum entry and other attractions.

Useful Websites www.liechtenstein.li www.landesmuseum.li www.erlebniswelt.li (maize labyrinth) www.citytrain.li www.bergbahnen.li www.km.li (Kunstmuseum) www.galina.li (falconry) www.pwz.li (Stamp Museum) www.triesenberg.li www.hofkellerei.li www.schaedler-keramik.com www.skimuseum.li www.tourismus.li www.fuerstenfamile.li www.littlebigone.li (music festival) www.staatsfeiertag.li

Section 13 - Cross references Family friendly destinations Everything in Section 2 and most things in Section 5. Section 1: Titlis Glacier Park,Trotti bikes*, Brunni*, Pilatus* (Frakmuntegg/Krienseregg), Wirzweli*. Section 3: Winterthur (Technorama), Baden (Swiss Children’s Museum). Section 4: Tierpark Dalhölzli, Rapperswil*,Rhine Falls,Tierweltpanorama,Alphorn Workshop. Section 6: Bike hire, Limmatschiffe, Boat trips*, Zoo. Section 7: City Train, Boat trips*, Natural History Museum, Glacier Garden, Craft Market, Verkehrshaus, IMAX, Lidostrandbad. Section 8: Landesgemeindeplatz* (aviaries), Zugerberg*. Section 9: Swiss Miniature Park, Europa Park, Tripsdrill.

Possibly interesting to teenagers (though no guarantee) Most items from Section 2 and 5 (carefully pre approved and avoiding too much ‘walking and looking‘ -JLP) Section 1: Titlis Glacier Park, Trotti bikes*, Wirzweli*, Hammetschwand lift (Bürgenstock*), Pilatus* (Frakmuntegg). Section 3: Technorama (Winterthur). Section 4: Rhine Falls, Tierweltpanorama, Alphorn Workshop. Section 6: Bike hire, Boat trips*, Bahnhofstrasse, Niederdorf, Zoo, Rote Fabrik. Section 7: City Train, Boat trips*, Craft Market, Flea Market, Verkehrshaus, IMAX, Lidostrandbad. Section 9: Europa Park, Tripsdrill,Trotti bikes in Scuol*.

For the physically active Everything in Sections 1 and 5. Section 2: Sattel*, Raten. Section 4: Rhine Falls. Section 6: Zürich Walking Tour, Bike hire, Uetliberg, Dolder Woods and Sonnenberg, Greifensee. Section 7: Stroll through Town, Musegg (City Wall). Section 8: Zugerberg*. Section 9: Appenzellerland,Säntis, Bad Ragaz, Trotti bikes in Scuol*. Grindelwald, Lauterbrunnen, Mürren, Wengen, Jungfrau, Giessbach Falls,Aare Gorge.

Maiden aunts and couch potatoes Everything in Section 4. Almost everything in Sections 3,6,7,8 and 9. Section 1: Engelberg* Sarnen, Bürgenstock*, Schloss Meggenhorn, Rigi*,Schwyz. Section 2: Restaurant Chnüsper Huesli, Pegasus Small World Museum, Zürich Toy Museum, Mühlerama, Glasi Hergiswil.* Culture vultures Everything in Section 3 Almost everything in Sections 6,7 and 8. Section 1: Engelberg*,Rütli Meadow, Tellskskapelle, Altdorf, Bürglen, Schwyz. Section 2: Pegasus Small World Museum, Mühlerama, Spielzeugmuseum, Heidi Huesli, Glasi Hergiswil*, Ballenberg*. Section 4: Bern* Schaffhausen*, Stein am Rhein, Bremgarten, Willisau, Astrid Kapelle*. Section 9: Scuol*,Brienz*,Meiringen.

In inclement weather Section 2: Knies Kinderzoo, Restaurant Chnüschper Huesli, Pegasus Small World Museum, Mühlerama, Zürich Toy Museum, Heidi Huesli, Fürigen bunker, Glasi Hergiswil*. Section 3: Winterthur Museums, Hergiswald*, Meggen Church*. Section 4: Schaukäserei Schwyz, Victorinox Shop, Tierweltpanorama, Alphorn Workshop. Section 5: Cherry Bowl Sport, Schongiland, Rollerhall Baar, Kunsteisbahn Luzern/Zug, Alpamare. Baar Pool, Kriens Pool, Adidas Factory Outlet. Section 6: Kunsthaus*, Schweizerisches Landesmuseum, Succulents Collection, Design Museum, Uhrenmuseum, Rietberg Museum, Lindt& Sprüngli factory. Section 7: Virtual Tour, Picasso Museum, Historical and Natural History Museums, Theatre, Rosengart Sammlung, KKL*, Kunstmuseum, Bourbaki Panorama*, Alpineum, Glacier Garden, Verkehrshaus, IMAX, Planetarium, Hans Erni Museum, Richard Wagner Museum. Section 8: Art Gallery, Museum in der Burg, Afrika Museum.

Skiing Everything in Section 11 Section 1: Engelberg*, Wirzweli* Glaubenberg, Brunni, Stoos. Section 2: Sattel*, Raten. Section 8: Zugerberg*. Section 9: Braunwald, Amden, Scuol*,Grindelwald, Mürren, Wengen. Section 12: Malbun.

Highly recommended Section 1: Engelberg, Trotti bikes, Brunni, Wirzweli, Bürgenstock, Hotel Hönegg, Pilatus, Rigi, Weggis, Swiss Knife Valley. Section 2: Sattel, Glasi Hergiswil, Ballenberg. Section 3: Einsiedeln, Solothurn, Hergiswald, Meggen Church. Section 4: Bern, Rapperswil, Schaffhausen, Astrid Kapelle. Section 6: Boats, Kunsthaus, Albis, Hirzel. Section 7: Boats, Kapellbrücke, Nädelwehr,Spreuerbrücke, KKL, Bourbaki, Lion Monument. Section 8: Altstadt, Zugerberg. Section 9: Brienz, Ascona, Lower Engadin,Trotti bikes in Scuol. Section 10: Fasnacht, Cow Migration, Cirque de Soleil, Lucerne Music Festival and Rowing. Section 11: Engelberg, Elm, Klosters.

25 Good Daytrip Combinations 1.Luzern/Hergiswald/Hergiswil 2.Luzern/Bürgenstock 3.Luzern/Vitznau/Rigi/Weggis 4.Luzern/Alpnachstad/Pilatus/Kriens 5.Luzern/Meggen Church/St Astrid’s Chapel/Zug 6.Stanserhorn/Sarnen 7.Beromunster/Sempach/Sursee 8.Sarnen/Melchsee Frutt 9.Bremgarten/Beromunster/Muri 10.Emmental/Bern 11.Meiringen/Brienz/Interlaken 12.Interlaken/Grindelwald 13.Interlaken/Thun 14.Interlaken/Lauterbrunnen/Mürren or Wengen 15.Einsiedeln/Brunni 16.Einsiedeln/Hoch Ybrig 17.Einsiedeln/Sattelegg/Wägital 18.Einsiedeln/Raten 19.Einsiedeln/Ibergeregg/Schwyz 20.Alpamare/Rapperswil 21.Albis/Türlersee 22. Höllgrotten/Sattel 23.Rhine Falls/Schaffhausen 24.Rhine Falls/Stein am Rhein 25.Rhine Falls/Winterthur Museums

Top Ten Towns 1. Luzern 2. Zürich 3. Engelberg 4. Bern 5. Solothurn 6. Schaffhausen 7. Zug 8. Rapperswil 9. Ascona 10. Einsiedeln Section 14- Swiss Trivia Eminent Swiss People It is surprisingly difficult to name ten really famous Swiss people without recourse to tennis players and eponymous chocolate makers. Here is a list of Swiss (both native and adoptive - and in some cases imaginary) who made the grade for a variety of reasons: Paul Klee - painter Hans Erni -contemporary artist with museum in Luzern dedicated to his work Alberto Giacometti - sculptor and painter Augusto Giacometti - artist Ferdinand Hodler - Switzerland’s favourite artist famous for stirring nationalist subjects Albert Anker - Romantic painter Jean Arp - artist of the Dada movement Sophie Täuber-Arp - artist of the Dada movement Jean Tinguely - idiosyncratic Basler sculptor Niki de Saint Phalle - idiosyncratic sculptress (married to Tinguely) Roberto Niederer - glass designer Oskar Reinhart - art collector Arthur Hönegger - 20th century classical composer Adrien Wettach - (aka Grock) clown René Baumann - (aka DJ Bobo) engaging Europop singer from Aargau with all round appeal Jewel - American country singer Adolph Rickenbacher - father of the electric guitar Andre Bucher - 800m athlete Roger Federer - pre eminent tennis player from Basel Martina Hingis - tennis champion Patti Schnyder - tennis player Marc Rosset - tennis player Edith Hunkeler - much admired wheelchair athlete Vreni Schneider - ski champion - comes from Elm Simon Ammann - ski jumper from Toggenberg Pirmin Zurbriggin - 40 time winner of Ski World Cup in 1980s Christian Gross - erstwhile manager of Tottenham Hotspur in UK Sepp Blatter - president of FIFA based in Zürich Piccard Family - balloonists Huldrych Zwingli - Reformation hero Jacob Bürckhardt - art historian Jean Jacques Rousseau -philosopher Jean Piaget - psychologist Karl Jung - psychiatrist Paracelsus - 16th century alchemist Albert Einstein - German born physicist Horace Benedict Saussure - naturalist Elisabeth Kübler Ross - psychiatrist renowned for study of death and dying Henri Dunant - founder of Red Cross and winner of national poll of greatest Swiss Johann Heinrich Pestalozzi - educational reformer Gottlieb Duttweiler - philanthropist and founder of Migros Napoleon III - French king Alfred Escher - politician and visionary Ruth Dreifuss - former president of Switzerland Christophe Blocher - controversial right wing politician Henri Guisan - Second World War general Gottfried Keller - writer and poet Rainer Maria Rilke - novelist and poet Max Frisch - novelist and playwright Conrad Ferdinand Meyer - author Friedrich Dürrenmatt - playwright Herman Hesse - German born writer and winner of Nobel Prize Charles Ferdinand Ramuz - modern novelist Joanna Spyri - author of ‘Heidi’ from Hirzel Alain de Botton - contemporary writer Max Frisch -dramatist Cesar Ritz - hotelier Anton Mosimann - chef and restaurateur by appointment to the British Royal Family Betty Bossi - fictitious cook Marie Tussaud - waxwork supremo William Tell - legendary hero Heidi - classic heroine Frankenstein Family - Mary Shelley's creations Rodolphe Lindt - chocolate manufacturer from Bern David and Rudolf Sprüngli - chocolate manufacturers from Zürich Philippe Suchard - chocolate manufacturer from Neuchatel Jean Tobler - chocolate manufacturer from Appenzell Henri Nestlé - chocolate manufacturer from Frankfurt / Vevey Francois Cailler - chocolate manufacturer from Vevey Maximilian Bircher-Benner - inventor of Birchermuesli 36th in national popularity poll Charles-Edouard Jeanneret - (aka Le Corbusier) eminent architect Peter Zumthor - contemporary architect who designed baths at Vals Mario Botta - architect Jacques Herzog & Pierre de Meuron - architects of Tate Modern/Beijing Olympic Stadium Louis Chevrolet - eponymous car manufacturer Nikolaus Riggenbach - engineer Jean Luc Goddard - film director Marc Forster - Davos born director of Monsters' Ball and Neverland Arthur Cohn - six time Oscar winning film director Ursula Andress - actress Renee Zellweger - actress with Swiss father Nicolas Hayek - founder of Swatch Carl Franz Bally - shoe manufacturer Georges Eduard Piaget - watch manufacturer Guggenheim Family - copper magnates and art collectors from Aargau Georges de Mestral - inventor of Velcro

Well Known Swiss Tourists Goethe William and Dorothy Wordsworth Alfred Lord Byron Percy Bysshe Shelley Mary Shelley Edward Whymper Sir Walter Scott Joseph Conrad Mendelssohn JMW Turner Mark Twain Thomas Cook Tolstoy Queen Victoria Victor Hugo Arthur Conan Doyle Prince Charles and Family (and the British press corps) Charles Dickens John Knox Freddie Mercury James Bond

Expatriates in Switzerland past and present (with acknowledgements to ‘Hello‘ magazine) The Romans Jean Calvin (Geneva) Richard Wagner (Luzern) Igor Stravinsky (Clarens) Voltaire (Geneva/Ferney) Napoleon III (Salenstein) Empress Eugenie (Salenstein) Friedrich Nietsche (Silvaplana) James Galway (Luzern) Vladimir Ashkenazy (Luzern) Peter Ustinov (Vaud) Shania Twain (Vaud) Phil Collins (Vaud) Lenin (Zürich) James Joyce (Zürich) Tina Turner (Zürich) Roger Moore (Crans Montana) Michael Schumacher (Geneva) Boris Becker (Zug) Nana Mouskouri (Geneva) Richard Burton (Céligny) Edward Gibbon (Lausanne) John Le Carre (Bern) Johannes Calvin (Basel/Geneva) Hans Holbein the Younger (Basel) Erasmus (Basel) James Blunt (Verbier) Charlie Chaplin (Vevey) Patricia Highsmith (Locarno) Georges Simenon (Lausanne) Thomas Mann (Kusnacht/Kilchberg) Vladimir Nabokov (Lausanne) Grahame Greene (Geneva) Audrey Hepburn (Tolchenaz) Nana Mouskouri (Geneva)

The Blue Rigi The eminent British painter Joseph Mallord William Turner (1775-1851) was a regular visitor to Switzerland during the first half of the 19th century. His first trip was in 1802 and between 1841 and 1844 he came every year. He liked to stay at the Schwanen Hotel on the lake in Luzern and became entranced by the many moods of Mount Rigi, producing several sketchbooks of evocative watercolours. Early Victorian tourists came in large numbers to see sunrise on the mountain, climbing it on foot or by mule to stay at the Inn at the summit. Turner was commissioned by a wealthy industrialist to produce a painting: sensing a business opportunity he ended up painting three - The Blue Rigi, The Dark Rigi and The Red Rigi. They were a triumph: the art critic John Ruskin described them as 'the noblest landscapes ever conceived by human intellect' and wrote that Turner was 'not showing his hand in these, but his heart.' The Blue Rigi, painted in the Spring of 1842, shows the mountain in the ghostly light just before dawn with the Morning Star above. Turner's use of colour and texture to portray light is considered exceptional and these watercolours are arguably his finest late works. The story does not end there. In the summer of 2006 The Blue Rigi came up for auction in London and was sold to a private buyer abroad for £5.8million. Realising that a national treasure was at stake, the British Government agreed to delay granting an export licence in the hope that the same amount could be raised to keep the painting in the UK. Tate Modern and the Art Fund made large donations but a crucial £522,000 was given by 11,000 members of the public whose imagination was captured by a robust fundraising campaign. £73,000 alone was paid by people who chose and 'bought' individual brushstrokes of the painting for £5 each via a website. And so The Blue Rigi was saved by the Nation - for future generations to enjoy. www.artfund.org/savebluerigi

Skilifts (with acknowledgements to ‘The Rough Guide to Switzerland’) Luftseilbahn - cable car Sesselbahn - chairlift Schlepplift - draglift Standseilbahn - funicular Gondelbahn - gondola Zahnradbahn - rack railway

Swiss Cantons Aargau Nidwalden Appenzell Ausserrhoden (half) Obwalden Appenzell Innerrhoden (half) Sankt Gallen Basel-Landschaft Schaffhausen Basel-Stadt Schwyz Bern Solothurn Fribourg Thurgau Geneve Ticino Glarus Uri Graubunden Valais Jura Vaud Luzern Zug Neuchatel Zürich

William Tell The story of William Tell is fundamental to the Swiss psyche. The tradition is so strong, particularly in Central Switzerland, that one might be forgiven for thinking that he is a historical figure: in fact this fictitional folk hero, embodying the fiercely independent spirit which the Swiss hold dear, has taken on a life of his own over 500 years through literature, music and tourism. The legend has its factual roots in the 14th century when the Austrian Habsburgs installed the cruel Hermann Gessler as Bailiff for the strategically important town of Altdorf in the canton of Uri. The story then goes that in order to subjugate the locals he placed his hat on a pole in the village square and ordered everyone to pay homage to it. William Tell from Bürglen failed to do so and was promptly arrested. Gessler then challenged him to shoot an arrow into an apple which he had placed on the head of Tell's son. If he succeeded, he would be freed: if he refused or failed, both he and his son would die. Tell took two arrows and shot the apple off his son's head with his first shot. Gessler was curious about the second arrow: Tell explained that he would have used it to kill Gessler had his son been struck. To set an example Gessler sentenced Tell to life imprisonment at his castle in Axenstein near Küssnacht am Rigi. On the boat journey to incarceration, a violent Föhn (wind) blew up on the Vierwaldstättersee and Tell, having been untied to help steer the boat to safety, managed to jump ashore at Tellsplatte. He then intercepted Gessler at the Hohle Gasse ('sunken lane') en route to his stronghold where he used his second arrow as intended.

Lake Fish There is a flourishing fishing industry on the Zürichsee and the Zugersee and - to a lesser extent - on Lake Lucerne (the purity of the water there inhibits the growth of suitable nutrients). The indigenous species are surprisingly numerous albeit sometimes rather obscure.

Aal/Flussaal - Freshwater Eel Aesche - Grayling Alet/Döbel - Chub Bachneunauge - Lamprey Barbe - Barbel Bitterling - Bitterling (sic) /Bitterfish Blikke - Silver Bream Brachse/Brachsmen - Bream Egli/Flussbarsch - Perch Elritze - Minnow Felchen /Blaufelchen - Chub Forelle/Seeforelle/Bachforelle - Freshwater Trout Glattbutt - Brill Goldbrasse - Giltheaded Bream Gressling - Pin Groppe - Bullhead/Miller’s Thumb Gründel - Gudgeon Hecht - Pike Karpfen/Hasel - Carp Lachsforelle -Salmon Trout Laügel/Laube - Bleak/Blay Nase - Nase Fish Regenbogenforelle - Rainbow Trout Rotfeder - Rudd Schleie - Tench Schneider - Crucian Carp Schwale/Rotauge - Roach Seehecht - Hake Seesaibling/Bachsaibling - Char Seeteufel - Monkfish Seezunge - Sole Steinbutt - Turbot Trüsche - Burbot Wolfsbarsch - Sea bass Zander - Pike-perch

The Towers of Luzern’s City Wall Impress your friends with your encyclopaedic knowledge of Luzern’s medieval fortification ! Local schoolchildren have to learn the names of the nine towers by heart: Nolliturm, Männliturm, Lügislandturm, Wachtturm, Zytturm, Schirmerturm, Pulverturm, Allenwindenturm and Dachliturm.

Banknotes 10CHF Le Corbusier 20CHF Arthur Hönegger 50CHF Sophie Täuber-Arp 100CHF Alberto Giacometti 200CHF Charles Ferdinand Ramuz 1000CHF Jacob Bürckhardt

TEN GOLDEN RULES FOR FOREIGNERS LIVING IN SWITZERLAND

1. Always shake hands and maintain eye contact. 2. Use people’s names in greeting and saying goodbye. 3. If in doubt adopt a formal approach: avoid over-familiarity. 4. Toast everyone present before drinking by chinking glasses and meeting their eye (‘Zum Wohl' ). 5. Don’t tuck in to food before everyone’s ready (‘En Guete’). 6. Ignore the vehicle speed of local residents at your peril : they know where the speed cameras are. 7. Expect things to be done differently; appreciate the contrasts and don’t convert to your native currency. 8. Cycle. 9. Recycle. 10. LEARN SOME GERMAN ! Section 15 - Recommended Reading and Websites

The Rough Guide to Switzerland*: stylishly written, comprehensive and unerringly accurate. If you only buy one Guidebook, make it this. Insight Guide to Switzerland*: great photographs and some offbeat entries. The Lonely Planet Guide to Switzerland Fodor’s Switzerland Frommer’s Switzerland Flying Visits Switzerland published by Cadogan Guides ‘Discover Lucerne’ by Paul Rosenkranz and others* ‘In and around Zürich with Kids’ published by the New Stork Times*: encyclopaedic survey for those with young children. ‘Living and Working in Switzerland: a Survival Handbook’ by David Hampshire*; everything you need to know - indispensable for expatriates. Culture Smart! Switzerland: a Quick Guide to Customs and Etiquette*: accessible and reassuring for new arrivals. ‘Beyond Chocolate -Understanding Swiss culture’ by Margaret Oertig-Davidson: invaluable in its scholarly exploration of Swiss mores. ‘Xenophobe’s Guide to the Swiss’ by Paul Bilton. ‘The Perpetual Tourist: in Search of a Swiss Role’ by Paul Bilton. 'How the English made the Alps' by Jim Ring: history of the tourism industry. 'Die Schweizermacher: a Swiss-German Tutorial' by Harry Fuchs and Paul G. Schreier: unique and ingenious guide to the arcane complexities of Schweizerdeutsch. ‘Co-op Zeitung’ (www.coopzeitung.ch) and ‘Brückenbauer’ ( Migros): free supermarket magazines with ideas for excursions and activities. Tourism www.myswitzerland.com; www.centralswitzerland.ch Cultural Events www.prohelvetia.ch General Information www.swissworld.org Current Affairs www.swissinfo.ch Cheese www.switzerlandcheese.ch Public transport www.sbb.ch www.rail.ch: investigate the great value season ticket (General Abonnement) half price fares (Halbtax Abonnement) and family concessions (Junior-Karte). Zürich has a well integrated transport system and helpful leaflets in English: www.zvv.ch . ZürichCARD: gives 24 hours’ use of public transport with free entry to museums and other concessions for one payment - available from stations and hotels. Museums www.museums.ch/pass : monthly pass for unlimited entry to 300 museums - include up to 5 children for nominal amount. Tickets: www.ticketcorner.ch for concerts and other public events.

Sue Poolman. [email protected] Zug. May 2007.