Chapter 1:Fashion Development

Chapter 1: Fashion Development

Fashion is a reflection of… ______forces Political forces Economic forces ______forces

France, the Center of Fashion French Fashion Terms  -made: apparel made to a customer’s special order; cut and fitted to individual measurements; the opposite of ready-to- wear  (koo-tour’): The art of dressmaking  (koo-tu-ree-ay’): Male designer  (koo-tu-ree-air): Female designer

Fashion Dictated by Royalty  ______main classes: Wealthy landowners or poor laborers and farmers  Royalty set fashion trends  Court of ______o The importance of dress to the wealthy o ______– Official Court Minister of Fashion o Surrounding industries o The French Revolution (1789) . : knot of ribbons or other circular/oval-shaped symbol

Fashion Dictated by Royalty  ______became business forces directing salons staffed with seamstresses and tailors  Couture became a bridge between the class-structured fashion of the past and the democratized fashion of today  International market for ______high fashion grew  Couturiers were the major fashion influence for more than ______years Key Designers (1871-1920s)  ______(1858-1895)  John Redfern (1850-1932;1936-1940)  Jeanne Paquin (1912-1920)  ______ Madeleine Cheruit (1920s-1952) (1912-1923)  Jeanne-Marie Lanvin  ______(1909-today) Folk costume  Arises from the underclass  Very elaborate ______(second-hand) clothing for special occasions were passed from one generation to another. o Varies with country and within the country o Distinguishes where you ______from

Industrial Revolution Inventions  The Textile Industry o 1733 John Kay o 1769 Richard Arkwright . ______. Water frame o 1764 James Hargreaves o 1785 Edmund Cartwright . Spinning jenny . ______machine o 1789 Samuel Slater . Immigrates from o 1814 Francis Cabot Lowell ______. ______, with memorized plans integrated factory After the Civil War  Textile industry relocated to the ______, the source of cotton.  Southern states also provided other incentives such as ______.  Eventually the South was the textile production center in the United States.

Why the importance of the middle class? Late 18th Century (Post-Industrial Revolution):  Extra money to spend  Desire to demonstrate wealth o Fashion becomes a “______”  Desire to be perceived as respectable leads to development of the ______ Now able to influence fashion trends

Establishment of the Business Suit  Until ______men’s and women’s fashions had equal amounts of detail.  Men’s clothing was custom-made by ______o Some ______-made clothing was made in the 1700s in France o In America, tailors constructed ready-made suits for sailors for when they came on land o At first, tailors cut the fabrics and bundled the pieces and then sent them off to homes to be sewn by hand (______process)  Tailors then became retailers with factory shops in seaport cities  In 1818 New York- ______started the men’s clothier business that became ______o Abraham Lincoln bought an overcoat for his second inauguration from Brooks Brothers.

The Sewing Machine  1829 Barthelemy Thimmonier o ______ 1846 Elias Howe o ______(patented)  1859 Isaac Singer o ______mass production Mass Production of Clothing  ______- o Opened a dry goods store in California after the gold rush o In ______, he began to manufacture long-wearing pants with riveted pockets that used a touch of cotton fabric called ______ Civil War Uniforms- o The Union army recorded the ______measurements of over a million soldiers to come up with the first standardization of sizes (S, M, L, etc.) o After the war, sewing machines and uniform sizing promoted the mass production of everyday men’s wear. Women’s Fashions and Social Changes  Rigid differences between the roles of the sexes.  Women: o Constraining garments characteristic of their restricted lifestyles and obedience to their husbands and fathers. o No right to own anything except their clothing  3 basic garments for women Women’s Separates Mass Production  Separates were introduced in the ______ Hemlines and waistlines were easily adjusted o Making it possible for the working- or middle-class women to add a variety to her wardrobe by mixing separates  ______-illustrator in the 1890s

19 th Century Retailing  Traveling merchants brought clothes to fairs and ______. o Expensive items were only shown to the wealthy o Prices were not marked; you could bargain your way to a good price  2 types of stores: o ______Stores o Specialty Stores

The Department Store  1826: Samuel ______and George Washington ______opened the first ______store in NYC  ______(New York)  Harrod’s of London, 1849, established by Henry Harrod o Started as a small grocery store o ______, 100 employees and became the largest department store Early Mail-Order Merchandising  1800s, ______of the population lived in rural areas  Satisfaction guaranteed or your money back o ______ 1886, Richard Sears o ______

The First Fashion Magazines  Communications: o Fashion Magazines . ______-1867 . ______- 1894  What is the effect? o Women become aware of new styles o Desire to wear new styles ______o Rate of fashion change ______o The demand for more new looks ______

Growth of Leisure Activities  Sports participation o ______specific apparel is needed . Bicycling . Swimming . Horse-riding o Swimwear becomes practical o Pants for women- ______

Garment Industry Growth  New York City o Immigrants with skills, need job o ______: hours, conditions, wages o 1914 Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America . ______hour week  1911 Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire o ______deaths o Public indignation o Better ______conditions

World War I  ______America entered the war  Women start to enter workforce, need appropriate clothing  A trend towards ______in women’s fashion emerged  WWI factory work leads to increased practicality in clothing o ______discarded o Hemlines rise o Skirts ______Designers of the Era  Paul Poiret o ______ Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel o The ______look  Jean Patou o The ______look Retail Expansion in the Early 20 th Century  Early 20th century o Bergdorf Goodman and ______in New York and Nieman Marcus in Dallas concentrated on solely the finest fashion and ______ 1900’s o ______enters retailing as an owner  1920’s o Suburban Retail Centers  1930’s o First ______as presidents of retail firms o Dorothy Shaver (Lord & Taylor) mentions American designers in ads

The Depression and Fashion  First, a look at what is happening o 12.8 million are unemployed o 50% of banks fail o ______% of garment factories fail  An escape from reality: ______o Americans attend films 1-2 times a week o See ______fashions o Gilbert Adrian leading ______designer Important Designers  Elsa Schiaparelli o ______interest o Trendsetter of the 1930s  James Mainbocher o First successful ______designer in Europe o Wedding dress for ______World War II  Closure of ______design houses  American designers come to forefront  Wartime ______ Fashion is stable  Claire McCardell: The ______Look Postwar Fashion  Population migration and the ______o Emphasis on home and casual clothes  Retailers move to suburbs: the Mall o Finding fashion faster o ______ Christian Dior: ______ Christobal Balenciaga: the master of tailors  Influential: o Jacqueline Kennedy o ______

The Youthful 1960s  British Influences o Mary Quant o Zandra Rhodes o Jean Muir  The “ ______” look  ______ Increased interest in men’s fashion  Youthfulness had negative effect on couture

Revival of Men’s Fashion  English Mod look affected men’s fashion  Men became more concerned with their roles outside work and with leisure dressing  Pierre Cardin o Contract for men’s shirts and ties in 1959 o ______department store

Fashion Business and Retailing  1960s saw the last ______fashion for 20 years o Small, family owned fashion businesses closed  Some merged or were purchased by large corporations  Some flourished with the economy through stocks  Boutiques grew in population o ______opened his first boutique o Boutiques brought a freshness to retailing 1970’s  Ethnic and Folk looks predominate  Physical fitness fashion  Women go to work and ______begins  Preppy Look and designer jeans  ______, Halston, Geoffrey Beene, Ralph Lauren, Mary Mc Fadden 1980’s  Consolidation among manufacturers and retailers  Still dressing for success: the ‘______’  Influential designers o ______(Milan) o Takada (Japan) o Miyake (Japan)  Lady Diana Spenser  International recognition for American Designers o Calvin Klein

1980’s Industry Trends  Use of ______:  Growth of designer and brand names through licensing  Overstored America  Growth of mail order/catalogs

1990’s  Value orientation of consumers o ______ Retailers consolidate, enter into bankruptcy  ______affects imports  Grunge Look is an anti-fashion statement  Menswear market seeks tremendous growth

The 21 st Century  Competition is tougher more than ever  Fashion can be the same all over the world  ______are the fashion leaders  American consumers are buying fewer pieces of clothing  Imports are increasing (______)  Retail mergers continue