East Bluff, East Rampart

East Bluff, East Rampart [Sun all day][15 minute hike]

Character: The East Rampart of the East Bluff is the most popular area at Devil’s Lake. Known for its short but steep approach and numerous lines, the East Rampart is a long face that hosts several hundred routes of difficulties ranging from 5.2 to 5.13. Trad and toprope lines abound here, so even the most discerning climber can find something to suit their tastes. The East Rampart tends to get crowded on weekends, so arrive early to beat the crowds. The East Rampart faces south and receives sun for the majority of the day, although during the summer months trees provide ample shade to stave off the brunt of the sun’s fury while belaying.

Approach: Park at the CCC parking lot and take the trail directly across the South Shore road from the lot. Follow the trail north as it ascends the stone steps of the bluff.

East Bluff, East Rampart Areas: The Monster D'Arcy's Buttress Pedestal Buttress Gill's Buttress Brinton's Buttress Two Pines Buttress Many Pines Buttress Mouldy Buttress Bill's Buttress Rainy Wednesday Tower Four Brothers Leaning Tower The Tombstone Pseudo Hawks Nest Balshazzar's Feast Hawks Nest

The Monster: GPS: N. 43° 24.794 W. 089° 42.724

•1 The Flatiron V4 HHHH x B Dig into the parallel cracks of the Flatiron to send this classic John Gill boulder problem. •2 Wall Above the Flatiron 5.9 HH x T Follow the short crack that begins above the Flatiron •3 Frankenstein 5.12b HH x T You’ll find this odd corner about 20 feet to the right of the monster. •4 The Monster 5.10c HH x T This crack takes good pro, but despite its lack of height will test your mettle. •5 The Thing 5.7 HH x T This route follows the large groove. •6 The Zipper V8 HHHH x B This stout Eric Zschiesche problem will give you a run for your money. •7 Close to the Thing 5.8 HHH x TR This route follows the left side of the corner. •8 Also Close to the Thing 5.8 HHH x T Work your way up the cracks to the left of Close to the Thing. •9 The Body Snatcher 5.7 HHHH x T The Body Snatcher starts below the shallow chimney; move left once you reach the overhang. •10 The Body Snatcher Direct 5.10c HHH x T This route is basically the same as the Body Snatcher, but climb over the roof instead of moving to the left. •11 The Body Snatcher Variation HH 5.7 x T Head up the flake a few feet to the left of the Body Snatcher. •12 The Crab 5.9 H x TR Scuttle your way up this face climb.

D’Arcy’s Buttress: GPS: N. 43° 24.808 W. 089°42.734

•13 Cemetery Wall V0 H x

•14 Ship's Prow 5.6 H x TR Climb the short arête that from the west looks like, well, the prow of a ship. •15 30 Second Crack 5.3 H x T Head up the wide crack just to the left of Ship’s Prow. •16 D'Arcy's Wall 5.8 HHHH x TR This route starts near the right side of D’Arcy’s wall. Gingerly traverse up and left then get ready for an exciting finish. •17 Death Leap 2000 5.10b HHH x T Follow the diagonal cracks left to the corner then right onto the face. DL2K has the same finish as Last Gasp. •18 Last Gasp 5.8 HHH x T Start just left of the left-facing corner of D’Arcy’s Buttress and enjoy some easy climbing until the last move. •19 Easy Overhang 5.4 HH x T Just to the left of Last Gasp, Easy Overhang offers up plenty of jugs for those not quite ready for hard crimping. •20 Strawberry Fields 5.9 x

•21 Zig-Zag 5.5 x

•22 Unnamed corner to left of Zig-Zag 5.9 x

•23 Darkness at Noon 5.2 H x TR Get ready for some chimney action. •24 Sometime Crack Right Side 5.10b/c x

•25 Sometime Crack 5.10a HHHH x T Jam perfect hands up this beautiful crack then move up and right to an easy finish. •26 Blow-Up 5.10b HHH x Same start as SC, but traverse left to the arête at the horizontal crack. •27 Sometime Direct 5.10d HHHH x Again, the same start as SC, but instead of moving right, head straight up through the overhang to the top on a series of small but good holds. •28 Welfare Line 5.12b H x TR •29 Sometime Left 5.11d HHH x TR At the top of the slab boulder at the base of SC climb the steep face to the left of SC, and if you’ve got anything left, pull through the same finish as Sometime Direct. •30 Dog Fucker 5.12a/b HHH x TR •31 The End 5.10a x

•32 The End of the End 5.10a x

•33 Chimney's End, 5.4 H x T

Pedestal Buttress:

•34 The Beginning 5.7 HH x T •35 The Stretcher 5.9+ x

•36 Pete's Lament 5.12b x TR •37 Birch Tree Crack 5.8 HHHH x T •38 Hourglass 5.11c x

•39 Hourglass Direct 5.12a x

•40 Upper Diagonal 5.9 HHHHH x T •41 Flake Route 5.10d x

•42 Angle of Dangle 5.12a HHH x T •43 Sweatshop 5.11b x

•44 Lower Diagonal 5.8 HHH x T •45 The Trick (variation of LD) 5.8 x

•46 The Pedestal 5.4 x

•47 Condolences 5.7 x •48 Golden Ledges 5.11b x

•49 All the Way 5.12b HHH x T •50 Congratulations 5.10a HHHH x T •51 Assume the Position 5.12b x

•52 Rich and Famous 5.11d x

•53 Ironmongers 5.7 x var. Pine Box 5.10a x

•54 Ironmongers Super Direct 5.11a x

•55 Evelyn Bites the Crust 5.10b x

•56 Lethe 5.7 x

•57 Unnamed (gulley?) 5.2 x

Gill’s Buttress:

•58 Fantasy 5.9 x

•59 var. Weasels Ripped My Flesh 5.12a x

•60 In Search of the Lost Libido 5.12b x

•61 The Spine 5.4 x

•62 Acid Rock 5.12a HHHH x TR •63 var. Slut for Punishment 5.12a H x TR •64 Peyote Blues 5.12b HHH x TR •65 var. Ice 5.13b HHHH x TR •66 Gill's Nose 5.11b HHHH x TR •67 Gill's Cheek 5.11d/12a x

•68 Gill's Crack 5.10b/c HHH x T •69 Boy Scout 5.3 HH x T •70 Rubber Man 5.13b HHHH x TR Brinton’s Buttress:

•71 Cheap Thrills 5.12b/c HHHH x TR •72 Chiaroscuro 5.9+ HHH x TR •73 Brinton's Crack 5.6 HHHH x T •74 Var. Brinton's Direct 5.8 HHHH x T •75 Brinton's Corner 5.10a x

•76 Rococo Variations 5.7 x

•77 var. Stool Pigeon 5.11b x

•78 Berkeley 5.6 HHH x T •79 Southside 5.12a x

•80 Chicago 5.8 HHH x T •81 Evanston Township 5.10b x

•82 Golf Road 5.10d x

•83 Puff n' Grunt Chimney 5.6 x

•84 The Rack 5.7 HHH x T •85 Thoroughfare 5.11a HHHH x T •86 Cross Town Traffic 5.11d/12a HH x

•87 Lunar Eclipse 5.11a x

•88 The Grotto 5.4 x

Two Pines Buttress

•89 Solar Eclipse 5.7 HHH x T •90 Mouse Trap 5.11d x

•91 Vacillation 5.7 x

•92 Mouse's Misery 5.10a HHHH x T •93 Mouse Tracks 5.11a HH x T •94 Mouse's Tail 5.11c x

•95 Full Stop 5.6 HH x T •94 Big Deal 5.10a HHH x T •95 Reprieve 5.7 HHHH x

•96 Schizophrenia 5.6 x

•97 Moderation 5.4 x •98 Brother Without a Brain 5.11a x

•99 Touch and Go 5.7 x

•100 Dyspepsia 5.6 x

•101 Pussy Galore's Flying Circus 5.7 HH x T •102 Jolly Gendarme 5.4 x

•103 Geritol 5.11c x

•104 Right Crack 5.10a x

•105 Left Crack 5.10d x

•106 Chlorosis 5.7 x

•107 Hypoglycemia 5.7 x

Many Pines Buttress

•108 Anemia 5.2 HH x T •109 Broken Ladder 5.7 HH x TR •110 Peter's Project Right Side 5.9 x T •111 Peter's Project 5.7 HHHH x T •112 Ostentation 5.10a HH x T •113 Callipigeanous Crack 5.10a HHH x T •114 Asleep in a Funkness Dream, (aka The Indian) 5.12a HHH x T •115 No Trump 5.11d x

•116 Michael's Project 5.7 HHH x T •117 Kama-Kazi 5.8 x

•118 Flatus 5.11b HHH x T •119 Flatus Direct 5.11d x

•120 Flatus Triple Direct 5.11d x

•121 Black Rib 5.11a HH x T •122 Double Clutch / Chickens Don't Fly 5.12aR HHHH x T •123 Man and Superman 5.10d x •124 Superman, 5.12a x

•125 Sewing Machine 5.6 x

•126 Unnamed 5.9 x

•127 Jamboree 5.6 x

•128 Algae 5.4 x

•129 V8 5.11a x

•130 Pleasures of the Groin 5.12b x

•131 Unnamed 5.4 x

Mouldy Buttress:

•132 Lichen 5.2 x

•133 Fungus 5.7 x

•134 Nine-Minus 5.8 x

•135 Ten-Minus 5.10a x

•136 Eleven-Minus 5.10d x

•137 Hales Corner 5.10d x

•138 Mother of Peral 5.10c x

•139 Cul-De-Sac 5.8 x

•140 Cul-De-Sac Exit 5.11d x

•141 Fibula Cracks 5.12a/b x

•142 Tibia Crack 5.8 x

•143 Horticulture 5.4 x

•144 Roofus 5.8 x

•145 Dog Leg 5.4 x

•146 Prophet's Honor 5.9 x

Bill’s Buttress:

•147 The Dark Corner 5.4 HH x T •148 Breakfast of Champions 5.8 HHH x T •149 Ignominy 5.4 x •150 Tiger 5.12a x

•151 Cheetah 5.10b HHHH x

•152 Pussy Cat 5.11a x

•153 Tom Cat 5.12a x

•154 Push-mi Pull-yu 5.6 HHH x

•155 Talk to the Animals 5.10a HHHH x

•156 Agnostic 5.7 x

•157 Grand Inquisitor 5.7 x

•158 Mr. Bunny Meets the Poultry Man 5.11a x

•159 Cotamundi Crack 5.6 HHHH x var. Overextension, 5.6 x T •160 Escalation 5.6 HH x T •161 The Outhouse 5.7 x

Rainy Wednesday Tower:

•162 Unnamed 5.10b x

•163 False Alarm Jam 5.6 HHHH x T If you lead this route make sure you use a 60m rope, or be prepared for a short down climb. •164 Resurrection 5.10a HHHH x TR •165 Resurrection Right 5.11c/d x

•166 Laundry Chute 5.12a HHHH x T •167 No Starch 5.11b/c x

•168 Eave of Destruction 5.9+ HHH x T •169 Double Overhang 5.4 HHH x T •170 Unnamed 5.4 x

•171 Out of the Woods 5.8 x

•172 Birnam Wood 5.7 x

•173 New Light Waves 5.12b HHH x T •174 Green Bulge, 5.7 HHH x TR •175 Miss Piggy's Pleasure 5.8 x •176 The Balcony 5.4 HH x T •177 The Mezzanine 5.4 x

•178 Second Balcony 5.4 H x T •179 Hirsute 5.7 HH x TR •180 Cerebration 5.4 HHH x T var. Climb the crack to the right of Cerebration, 5.4 x

•181 Resolution 5.9 HH x TR •182 Second Coming 5.7 HH x TR •183 Orgasm Direct 5.11b HHHH x T •184 Orgasm 5.8 HHHH x T •185 Cliff's Coitus 5.7 HH x T •186 Foreplay 5.6 HHH x T Four Brothers:

•187 Family Jewels 5.7 HHH x T •188 The Mic 5.11a x

•189 Gravel Pit H 5.4 x T •190 Mary's Face 5.9x

•191 Foliage 5.4 HH x T •192 Zot 5.9 HH x TR •193 Catalepsy 5.6 H x T •194 Unnamed 5.9 x

•195 Decadence 5.4 x

Leaning Tower:

•196 South Face 5.2 x

•197 West Face 5.8 x

•198 Northwest Face 5.7 x

•199 North Face 5.11a HH x var. Cosmic Cringe 5.11.b HH x •200 East Face 5.7 x The Tombstone:

Do some research!

Pseudo Hawk’s Nest:

•200 Wild Horses 5.8 x

•201 Immaculate Conception 5.10a x

•202 The Pretzel 5.6 x

•203 Drunken Sailor 5.5 x

•204 Epiphany 5.9 x

•205 Cracking Up 5.6x

•206 Bagatelle 5.12c/d x

•207 Phlogiston 5.12d x

•208 Beginner's Demise 5.11a x

•209 ABM 5.11a/b x

•210 Chicken Delight 5.7 x

•211 Chicken Tonight 5.8 x

•212 Beginner's Delight 5.4 x

•213 Full Moon Over Baraboo 5.9 x

•214 Hero's Fright 5.7 x

•215 Couch of Pain 5.12a x

•216 Sofa-Isticated-Lady 5.10d x

•217 Death and Transfiguration 5.4 x

•218 Fallen Birch 5.5 x

•219 Death and Disfiguration 5.8 x

•220 Degrade my Sister 5.11a x

•221 Prime Rib 5.9 x

•222 Face above Bloody Mary 5.11b x

•223 Bloody Mary 5.8 x

•224 The Fakir 5.7 x •225 Tharsis 5.11c x

•226 October First 5.7 x

•227 Anchors Away 5.6-5.8 x

Balshazzar’s Feast

Do some research!

Hawk’s Nest

•228 Rectal Exam 5.9 x

•229 Happy Hunting Grounds 5.11a HHH x T •230 Flakes Away 5.11d/12a x

•231 Double Hernia 5.12a x

•232 Bucket Brigade 5.6 HHH x T •233 No Fruit Please 5.11b x

•234 Pie Plate 5.11a/b HHH x TR •235 Vivisection 5.11a HHHH x T •236 Alpha Centauri 5.10d HHHH x T

•237 Yellow Pages 5.11a x

•238 Anomie 5.8 x

•239 Mother Fletcher's 5.8 x

•240 Charybdis 5.7 HHH x T •241 Scylla 5.7 x

•242 Coronary 5.7 HHH x T •243 Angina 5.9 x

•244 Angina II 5.9 x

•245 Land's End 5.7 x

•246 Off to See the Wizard 5.9 x