In Sharp Contrast to Last Year, We Landed to Find Thessalonica Hot and Sunny. After Collecting

Lake Kerkini butterflies, a lifer for me and a Greece species I’ve always wanted to see. 24 May to 5 June 2009 Stelios was pleased to see us, and we were soon shown to our rooms. In sharp contrast to last year, we I’m upstairs this year, in a spacious landed to find Thessalonica hot and double room with fridge and mini- sunny. After collecting our petrol- kitchen. After a welcome cold glass engined VW Transporter minibus, of orange we unpacked, and then finished in an attractive shade of drove down to Mandraki harbour. light blue, we made our way up to It was almost too hot to do the motorway; much of the drive anything, but we enjoyed watching was on dual carriageway until we squacco herons at close range, plus turned off for the last section north more distant views of the lake and to the lake. Once we had left its birds. Both the nesting Thessalonica behind the traffic was platforms were crowded with very light. Not many birds seen Dalmatian pelicans. I was pleased from the bus, but the best were a to pick up a distant pair of black- pair of lesser spotted eagles and a necked grebes. Great reed and single hovering short-toed eagle. olivaceous warblers sang, frogs croaked, and we saw one large Our first stop was by the dam, snake swimming in the margins. where we soon saw our first night Golden orioles called, and we herons, along with the most typical eventually glimpsed one or two. We of the lake’s birds: great crested failed to see a calling penduline tit, grebes, Dalmatian pelicans, grey but there were red-rumped herons, cormorants. Hundreds of swallows for compensation. A large house martins were swarming copper butterfly appeared briefly. under the bridge, where rows of nests were crowded together. A We stooped on the way home at the distant black kite was seen soaring bottom of the woods, but there was over the river below the dam. It was remarkably little bird movement, very hot (perhaps as high as apart from corn buntings, we did 33degC) and rather humid. see a cirl bunting, heard a distant black-headed bunting, and had a We drove along the west side of the good view of an olivaceous warbler, lake, seeing more pelicans and followed later by a pair of hoopoes. herons. In Kerkini itself we enjoyed Nightingales were singing strongly, the rows of storks’ nests, the adults and golden orioles called panting to keep cool. Beneath them continuously. By now the sky had were the usual crowds of Spanish partially clouded over, and a few sparrows. As we drove up the road spots of rain were falling. to the hotel, hundreds of butterflies were to be seen flying fast across Not long after we got back to the and around the road, with some hotel the expected thunderstorm settled on damp patches. I wasn’t finally broke, unleashing lashing sure what they were, and they were rain and strong winds with great so active in the sun it was difficult stabbing forks of lightning. To add to identify them flying, but we soon to the excitement, an earthquake found several road casualties, shook the building as I was writing revealing them to be nettle-tree this diary. It reminded me of eating

1 in a London restaurant with a tube- cock blue rock thrush and at least train running underneath, as the three black-eared wheatears, all of building shook as if a train was which we saw very well. passing by. We heard later from Filly that the epicentre of the A soaring raptor was a challenge to earthquake was near Skopje, and identify, but it seemed most likely registered about 5 on the Richter to be a dark-phase booted eagle. scale. We looked unsuccessfully for orphean warbler after leaving the Dinner was excellent, despite the quarry, but great views of a perched fact that we were told that nothing Levant sparrowhawk were had been specially prepared. As we compensation. We also finally saw came to bed, both scops and little and had good views of our first owls were calling. The black-headed bunting. thunderstorm had passed well away Unfortunately Graham’s impressive to the south, but another new Kowa telescope took a tumble, earthquake at 11.40 woke me up. with the impact buggering up the The scops owls continued calling focus wheel. through the night. We then dropped down to the Monday 25th May Strimonas river flood plain, driving along the sandy track with its Away at 6.15, though we were a nesting pairs of bee-eaters. It was little delayed because Colin was here that we saw our first lesser watching a little owl on the roof of grey shrikes, and they proved to be the barracks opposite. We drove common in this habitat. A couple of down to Mandrake, pausing en sightings of little bitterns were a route for a probable Syrian reminder of how much they favour woodpecker. A stop at the water these reedy pools. We failed to see troughs added our first woodchat tawny pipit, but there were shrike to the list. A honey buzzard numerous crested larks on the flew over. flood plain, and we also saw several At Mandraki we enjoyed the usual hoopoes, as well as turtle doves. variety of herons, plus our first There wasn’t a lot to see on the little bittern, and the singing great river other than a couple of yellow- reed warblers. I was surprised to legged gulls, plus a constant see a pair of wigeon, while pleased passage of herons and cormorants. to pick up a pair of ferruginous A single spoonbill, in full breeding ducks and a single drake garganey. plumage, was good to see as it One of the highlights was seeing a rested on a shingle island in the golden oriole chasing a cuckoo. A middle of the river. As we ate our couple of sightings of common lunch a water buffalo herder came sandpipers suggested that wader across to see us: I gave him a dried passage might not be over. apricot. He looked like a Bulgarian gypsy. One of his buffaloes had just After breakfast we drove to the given birth to a bull calf. quarry, where we failed to find rock nuthatches, though we did see a At 2pm, after an overcast morning, nest that had been taken over by the sun finally broke through, with house sparrows. There were the temperature rising fast to compensations in the shape of a approach yesterday’s levels. We

2 crossed the river, and checked out The day finished with an excellent the area where Gordon had said vegetarian repast, starting with there were breeding lesser spotted salad, then stuffed peppers, and woodpeckers. We didn’t see any, finishing with strawberries and but a kingfisher, feeding its fledged cream. As it was still so warm, we chick, was compensation, while a ate outside in the open. S&F have hoopoe posed for a photograph. A gone away for a couple of days, so few spots of rain fell and there was the rest of the team looked after us one rumble of thunder, but the admirably. Our bird list has now storm soon moved away. A black struggled up to 80 or so species. kite flew overhead. Tuesday 26th May We then drove back to the main road, and along the riverbank on No more earthquakes in the night, the far side, pausing several times thank goodness, though I did hear for bee-eaters that were apparently the scops owl calling. We went out feeding on ants on the track in for a walk up the hill at 6.15, getting front of us. Graham managed to get some welcome exercise. Birds were some great pictures with his relatively few, but we started with camera, but digiscoping was great views of a middle spotted impossible, alas. When we turned woodpecker feeding in a cherry round we followed close to the tree. Nightingales, chaffinches and river, seeing a couple of little ringed citril finches sang, we heard our plovers, a bird I was expecting to first blackcaps and at the highest find. A short walk to the north, point we walked to, a church with a alongside the flooded ponds, fantastic view of the lake below, we produced a female great spotted saw our first hawfinch. Close by we woodpecker, and a glimpse of a also saw a wall brown butterfly. green woodpecker. This place must become very crowded in summer, as there are On our way home we stopped for a numerous outdoor restaurants. soaring raptor that proved to be a lesser spotted eagle. It was close Breakfast was as good as usual, and when we first stopped, but hit a I bought a few essentials for lunch good thermal and was soon many in the village. We drove south, feet above us. through Kerkini, then stopping on the bridge where we watched As usual, we saw a wide variety of numerous night herons, along with butterflies during the day, ranging cormorants and grey herons. It was from eastern festoon to nettle-tree. already very hot and sunny. We Species identified included painted stopped again a quarter of a mile lady, small tortoiseshell, peacock, farther on, at the site where last red admiral, Queen of Spain year we saw both ortolan bunting fritillary, spotted (?) veined and sombre tit. We failed white, large white, small white, completely on the former, while I clouded yellow, meadow brown, got an all-too-brief view of the white-letter hairstreak. We also latter. There were compensations, photographed a pond tortoise, and as we had good views of red-backed saw our first tortoise attempting to shrikes (two pairs) and a cock cross the road as we drive home. woodchat that posed for us. We also saw black-eared wheatears and

3 cirl buntings, and buzzard, sparrowhawk and a goshawk. The sparrowhawk, black kite and lesser latter put on a good show, flying spotted eagle overhead. We also got across the valley, then turning back our first good views of golden along the top of the ridge, so we orioles, while a small flight of white had a good and reasonably pelicans came over us. Three protracted view. I reckoned that it tortoises were also seen here, one was a male. We also saw our first of which was photographed. masked shrike. This was a cock, and we enjoyed repeated views of Continuing down the lake, we saw a him. A pair of woodchat shrikes single glossy ibis at the shallow nearby also showed well. marsh on the west side of the road. Passerines were few, but there was Out on the lake were numerous a singing olivaceous warbler, and great crested grebes, many with once a hawfinch flew over. A small, striped chicks, plus small blackbird was nesting close to numbers of Dalmatian pelicans. where we had parked the van.

We continued south of the dam at We left the valley at about 4pm, Lithatopos, turning up the valley driving back on the same route as towards the quarry where eagle we had driven down. We didn’t see owls are seen regularly. Alas, like the glossy ibis again, but at the last year we weren’t in luck, and same marsh a dozen spoonbills nor did we manage to find olive- were feeding in the shallows, a tree warbler, either. The quarry was wonderful sight. At the sombre tit clearly still active, and an extensive site we stopped to admire and area of hillside had gone compared photograph a single black stork with last year. We enjoyed our that proved highly co-operative, picnic in the cool shade of the plane and we were later to see another as trees down by the river, and it was we walked along the river from the simply far too hot afterwards to go bridge. I found no fewer than three looking for birds, so it wasn’t until penduline tits’ nests, but though we 3 that we were active again. heard the males calling we still Hundreds of bees from the nearby haven’t seen one. Here we also hives were coming down to the noted our first reed warbler, and river to drink, while numerous watched a male sparrowhawk butterflies were also attracted to pursued by four or five furious the damp sand, including many golden orioles. Even at 5.30 it was nettle-tree butterflies, plus still uncomfortably hot in the sun, commas, southern white admirals so it was time to head for home. and painted ladies. I also saw a large tortoiseshell and a scarce We were back, as usual, at 6.30pm. swallowtail. Black-veined whites Filly’s mother was watering the were very common. Nightingales flowerbeds, so she was easily serenaded us continually, but the persuaded to hose the van down, only new bird we found here was too. Dinner was mousaka, following spotted flycatcher. on from the usual excellent salad. We ate outside again, this time Though we failed to find olive-tree opting for two bottles of white as warbler, there were compensations. it’s rather better than the red. It We saw short-toed eagle, lesser was still light enough to see the spotted eagle, buzzard, little owl when we returned to our

4 rooms. The scops owls called from marsh. I found a great white egret, behind the hotel, but I didn’t hear and we soon saw a couple more. them in the night. Glossy ibises were numerous, and my best count was 31. Colin also Wednesday 27th May spotted a single black stork that had flown in to feed on the marsh. After yesterday’s sunshine it was a Out over the lake we watched lines bit of a shock to be greeted by a of flying cormorants that seemed to dull, overcast morning. As we left stretch forever, while a flock of the hotel we crossed the drainage white pelicans thermalled up over channel, where Colin spotted a grey the lake. I was pleased to see a wagtail. We drove up the first part passing flock of 10 pochard, while of the mountain track, but Graham spotted a Caspian tern conditions weren’t great for finding flying overhead. The biggest or seeing birds. Both cirl and corn mystery was the complete absence buntings were singing, and we saw of any yellow wagtails. a pair of hawfinches several times. Sub-alpine warblers sang, but we We enjoyed excellent views of only managed a reasonable view of whiskered terns, and it appeared a drab female. A passing raven gave that good numbers were nesting far a fine view. We returned to the out on the lake. I thought that is hotel after just three quarters of an saw black terns, too, but they were hour. too far to be sure. Gulls seen included plenty of yellow-legged I managed to do most of the and just a few black-headed. No essential shopping inn the village raptors seen at all, but we did find a before breakfast, so we were able to pair of red-backed shrikes in the leave at 9. We drove down to bushes alongside the track. Megalahari then walked out directly west, with the reservoir to Though the morning had started the south of us, and shallow rather overcast, the sun finally marshes to the north. It was broke through at 11.10. However, it encouraging to see that an effort never got anywhere near as hot as was being made to collect the huge yesterday. We had our lunch in the amount of plastic rubbish polluting picnic area, then drove north to the the area. A couple of boats were river, where we went in search of out, while there was also at least the carp ponds. We failed to find one person collecting along the much here, though the habitat shore. looks perfect for stone curlews and tawny pipits. So we then continued Herons were in abundance, with to the BIG (best in Greece) lots of little egrets, night, squacco shopping centre, stopping first at and grey herons, plus numerous the quarry where we soon saw a spoonbills. Colin cleverly managed single roller. It seems probable that to find a single cattle egret, in his mate is sitting on eggs. He was a splendid breeding plumage, its challenge to photograph, but we beak strikingly pink-based. It was did get great views. attending a cow Several little egrets were behaving just like cattle The BIG shopping centre does have egrets, scavenging around them as excellent loos, but not a lot else to they foraged through the wet commend it. How much longer it

5 can survive must seem doubtful, as of sounds and sights of a late spring when Bulgaria joined the EU its morning. Cuckoos and nightingales whole purpose was destroyed. It sang, turtle doves purred, great had very few customers when we reed warblers grated away at each walked through it. other, golden orioles fluted, Cetti’s warblers burst into song, while a Our walk in the so-called warm sun illuminated a beautiful woodpecker wood was notably landscape. The only new bird I unproductive considering the managed to find was greylag goose quality of the habitat, with huge – a group of 12 – but we also saw and ancient white poplars, with an three drake garganeys and a single understorey of hazel and walnut. drake pochard, as well as all the Birds came slowly, but I managed usual birds. I called in a Cetti’s to call up a nuthatch and a middle warbler that perched for Graham to spotted woodpecker, though I was photograph it, while I managed to the only one to get a good view. We digiscope a cuckoo. also saw a couple of great spotted woodpeckers really well. Colin spotted a trio of lizards sunbathing at the side of the path. We stopped again at the quarry as One, clearly the alpha male, was we drove back, again seeing the iridescent green with blue on the roller. I realised suddenly that I head, an extremely handsome chap, was watching a lesser kestrel, but and one that should prove easy to there were also kestrels nesting in identify. We only spotted one the quarry face. After watching for medium-size snake in the water. A some time we established the fact huge effort has clearly been made that there were at least two broods to remove plastic from the water, of young kestrels, as we could see and there were no fewer than 40 the downy young at the nest holes. plastic sacks of rubbish lined up for The one female we saw attending collection. was a common kestrel, as was the male, so were the lessers nesting It was a bright, sunny morning with here? We did watch a male lesser the promise of becoming very hot, and a male common have an aerial so it seemed sensible to head up the skirmish, though it wasn’t very mountain: we left at 9.50. The dirt serious stuff. Common kestrels will track was rough in parts but occasionally nest in close proximity generally well graded. It took us to each other, while a single cock past an abandoned military may sometimes have two mates. outpost, a reminder of how close we Lesser kestrels are, of course, are to the Bulgarian border. At our colonial nesters. first major stop on the plateau there were numerous red-backed It was a good end to the day. We shrikes, while here I also found a were back at Viglatoras shortly pair of lesser whitethroats, our first after 6.30, and were able to eat our chiffchaffs sang from the beech dinner outside as usual. woods and a pair of mistle thrushes foraged. This area, with its Thursday 28th May scattered shrubs, junipers and wild roses, clearly provides perfect We started the day at Mandraki habitat for shrikes. It is exceedingly harbour, enjoying the rich variety rich in insects, while it was

6 noticeable that the cowpats were species, as Queen of Spain covered in flies. Though there was fritillaries were numerous, and I plenty of cloud around the tops of also saw other unidentified blues, the mountain we were in warm skippers and fritillaries, plus a very sunshine, and this was the case for worn and tatty Camberwell beauty. much of the day. Back at the alder wood, I played the Our next stop was the damp alder iPod for a treecreeper, with almost wood, and here we started well with instant success. I had no luck with a several nuthatches and a pair of woodpeckers, until a little later bullfinches, soon followed by a when I heard a black woodpecker family of marsh tits. Chaffinches, call again. I tried the iPod, and a robins and wrens sang. Colin and I lone black responded, silently, explored the open area, well grazed came straight over us and by a healthy-looking herd of beef continued flying up along the cattle. Surprisingly, the only birds valley. Later I saw a small we found were greenfinches, red- woodpecker that was almost backed shrikes and cirl buntings, certainly middle spotted fly from though the occasional buzzard the wood up to the beeches. Once soared high overhead. I heard a again, the abundance of red-backed black woodpecker call from much shrikes kept us amused. higher up the mountain, but it remained unseen. Intriguingly, the herds of cows up here on the high pastures are We continued our drive up the accompanied by two or three dogs mountain, eventually stopping for that presumably help look after lunch in the pine zone. Coal tit was them, though there is no human new for the list, but I failed to see cowherd. The cattle all look in very the pied flycatcher that I heard good condition. There was human singing. I also saw several activity up here, as forestry work blackcaps, the first of the trip that was in full swing, with mature I’ve actually set eyes though I’ve beeches being felled, and the heard lots. Two pairs of red- occasional over-laden lorry rumped swallows were coming struggling down the mountain with down to the track to collect mud for a load of logs. their nests. We later photographed a completed red-rumped nest in a As we dropped down the mountain disused sentry box, an impressive so the temperature rose. We piece of avian architecture. stopped a couple of times in a bid to find subalpine warbler, and we On our descent the now very warm eventually found a singing bird sun had prompted a rich variety of close to the bottom. I called him up butterflies onto the road, and we with the iPod, and we all eventually had great views of several gained good views, though Graham immaculate large tortoiseshells that struggled to photograph him must have just emerged. There satisfactorily as he sang mainly were also painted ladies, red from cover. I had heard a singing admirals, peacocks and nettle-tree woodlark, so was pleased to see butterflies, as well as an abundance three flush from the road in front of of whites. Time with a butterfly net us. would have revealed many more

7 When we got back I hosed off the nesting colony of whiskered terns, van, as it had been a very dusty day. of which there must have been at However, I need hardly have least 50 pairs. There were also bothered, as a few minutes later several pairs of black-necked there was a heavy thunderstorm. grebes, apparently nesting in the This knocked out the electricity for same area, while common terns the next hour or so. Our evening were quite numerous. By checking salad was one of the best yet, but the whiskered terns carefully I the main course of stuffed peppers found what appeared to be a pair of in a not very tasty sauce wasn’t so white-winged blacks. One was exciting. The problem may well certainly a white-wing, but the have been the fact that the other bird may well have been a electricity went off at a crucial stage black, but it was too far away to be in the cooking. We have now sure. discovered the local rosé, which goes down very well. We had to eat In the overgrown dyke behind us indoors tonight because of the nightingales, great reed, reed and storm. Cetti’s warblers sang, penduline tits called, as did golden orioles. Bee- I was frustrated to find that my eaters hawked around the tops of compute no longer acknowledged the poplars, and once a kingfisher my card reader, so I didn’t have the flew in. It while I was looking in the satisfaction of seeing the pictures direction of the dyke that Graham I’d taken today. Our species tally is remarked, “What falcon is this?” I now 120. looked round to see a superb Eleonora’s falcon hawking out over Friday 29th May the water. There were in fact three, and they gave us superb views as For the first time we didn’t have a they hunted along the pre-breakfast excursion, perhaps a embankment, sometimes landing good thing as it was a somewhat briefly on the road where they were dull morning, following last night’s chased by hooded crows. One rain. We had an early breakfast at landed on a dead tree close to the 8am, but by 8.30 it was raining car, much to Colin’s delight, as it quite heavily, so I changed the day’s was a new bird for him. Totally plan. Instead of driving straight to unexpected, they were to be by far the mountains I decided to go back the best birds of the day. to the lake, and drive out on the embankment from Megalahari. It Intriguingly, almost all the pelicans was still raining when we arrived, we have seen out on the lake, other but only just, and it soon gave up. than the thermalling flock we saw The banks were lined with big two days ago, have been Dalmatian. plastic rubbish sacks, full of plastic Where are all the whites? collected from the lake. As the weather had cheered up now The view from this side of the inlet we headed for the mountains, is quite different than that from the driving east, then forking right north. Here were the usual crowds towards Serres. We drove up the of herons – grey, night, little and valley from Sidirokastro, through a squacco – but as we drove farther handsome rocky gorge, though along we came level with the frustratingly the road seldom

8 allowed one to stop and get good tree. Why are serins so scarce here? views of the surrounding crags. The The only raptors we saw were weather was dull once again, common buzzards. Three old boys though still dry. We passed the strolled up to investigate us, but as crest and started descending the neither of us spoke a word of the other side, so I stopped to check out others’ language communication the hill in front of us. As we was difficult. However, I did put the scanned it with binoculars I could scope on a flock of sheep on a far hear a faint mewing that I couldn’t hillside for them to look at, and place. Eventually I realised it was they were duly impressed. coming from the grass in front of us, and close inspection revealed Our second viewpoint was a little three day-old puppies, one already more productive. This was at the dead, with a cardboard box just a highest point of the road: we couple of feet away, presumably scrambled up a couple of hundred what they had been dumped in. feet higher. Here a very nice short- There was nothing we could do for toed eagle came right over us, and them except put them out of their another was seen high in the sky misery, which I duly did with a above us. Again, several buzzards large boulder. It made me feel quite appeared. Two or three black- sick. headed buntings sang around us, there was a cock woodchat shrike We continued up the road, but the and a singing subalpine warbler. habitat wasn’t promising so we For a short time the sun came out turned around, retracing our route and it was very warm, but once the and then forking up to the north cloud obscured it again it cooled towards the windmills. The road down quickly. We did have a was rough and broken, the birds fantastic panoramic viewpoint few, while a cold wind made it quite here, and it was disappointing we unpleasant, so we headed back to didn’t see more. I also saw a very the valley for our lunch. We ate distant pair of flying rollers that I surrounded by scores of white- thought were jackdaws, so far away letter hairstreaks. Shortly before we were they, until I gained a glimpse left I scoped a buzzard that I of blue. thought most likely long-legged, though it was too far to be sure. It On the way back down the valley was continually stooping at we paused to try and find rock something on the ground. The nuthatches, but without success. object of its displeasure took off, We stopped at the big, roadside and I gained a brief but supermarket close to the junction unmistakable view of a golden where I bought provisions for next eagle. Graham had also managed to week. The shop was huge and well grab a photograph of it, confirming stocked, but no more than half a its identity. dozen customers, making you wonder how it survives. I filled up We spent the rest of the afternoon with petrol, discovering that the looking for the eagle, driving back van was managing 100km/10l of up the valley to suitable watch fuel, which isn’t bad. points. The first, in the village of Fea Petra, did produce a pair of Dinner indoors once again. The serins, the cock singing in a cypress main course was intriguing: a bean

9 soup, served with sausages. Gooey catching fish panicked towards the chocolate cake (the same as served shore. Overhead, whiskered and for breakfast) followed it, and I common terns cashed in on the must admit to rather enjoying it. turmoil, while the lone gull-billed Stelios lent me a card reader, tern flew past us, but I failed to get identical to mine, which worked, so anyone else to see it. The sound and I managed to download my last two the smell of the great feeding flocks days’ photographs at last. was quite something, but it was beyond my camera to record it. Saturday 30th May Other interesting sightings, apart Rain started falling in the early from the cormorants, included hours, and was well set in at 7am several kingfishers, plus a very when I first looked out. Fortunately handsome rufous cuckoo. This is a we hadn’t arranged a pre-breakfast rare morph of the female, and excursion. Despite the gloomy occurs more often in some start, the rain stopped soon after populations than others. It was the we dropped down to the main road, first I’ve seen for many years. The though it remained dark and last one was in Spain. As usual, gloomy for much of the morning. It nightingales and great reed was also cool enough for long warblers sang, bee-eaters hawked trousers and a sweater. I had for insects and penduline tits planned to drive to the ski resort, called. I used the iPod, and almost but with low cloud it would have at once a male penduline appeared, been pointless to do so. Instead, we and after a little while was joined went back to the north-east side of by another. The first bird was the lake, to where we had seen the apparently gathering nesting Eleonora’s falcons the day before. material, and came back to the This time we had no luck with the same dead tree several times as we falcons, but we had a memorable watched. Though we never saw any morning’s birdwatching. close to, there were good numbers of black-necked grebes out with the There were just a few new species: whiskered terns, where they must two first-year little gulls, and a be breeding. distant flock of c30 black terns that were probably late migrants, plus a Plastic litter collecting was still gull-billed tern. I also found continuing, and Graham sportingly another white-winged black. went over to the trio of pickers and However, it was the cormorants gave them a 30-euro tip, which I that entertained us. Estimating thought was a nice gesture. The their numbers was impossible, but pickers were all men in their 50s or there were thousands and 60s. thousands of them. They started the day by flying east in long, As we drove back a pair of black- seemingly unending lines, then headed wagtails landed by the side made their way back towards the of the lake, our first and long main lake as they indulged in mass overdue sighting of a flava wagtail. fishing. Accompanying them were a We had lunch back at the picnic few pelicans and hundreds of egrets site, and a walk from here after we and herons, the latter following had eaten gave me the chance to along the bank in the hope of photograph a pair of feeding

10 spoonbills. This was a little and really deserved a video camera frustrating, as pressing the shutter to record it. and getting a decent picture was tricky, as they had their beaks and I was keen to try and find a tawny heads down most of the time. The pipit, so we went back to the banks delayed response of the Coolpix of the river near the bridge. Alas, makes getting the timing right very despite out best efforts we found difficult. Meanwhile, Colin had nothing other than crested larks. It managed to find a little owl in the started raining, so we went back to same spot where I had the van where we were joined by a photographed one last year. It flew young, nice-looking buffalo herder. off towards the river embankment, He accepted a piece of chocolate where it disappeared, but another but refused the cake I offered, one was spotted sitting on a bit of of his two dogs looked very much derelict farm machinery. I tried like a black and white English stalking a pair of bee-eaters, but springer, so I photographed her. As without success. I was trying to take pictures – she was shy and wary of me – I head a We then drove a little way along the grey-headed woodpecker call, so a northern shore, before getting out little later I tried calling it with the and walking along the bank. When iPod. It came instantly, and we came to the shallow ibis marsh perched up high on a dead tree so it where we had watched the egrets could have its photograph taken. and cattle a couple of days ago, we were hugely entertained by a There was still time for one more massed flock of white pelicans, with site, so we drove back just beyond a few Dalmatian outswimmers with where we had parked for the them, but not part of the pack. It quarry. Here I called up a cirl appeared that most of the time they bunting that both Graham and I were swimming in grass. The great managed to photograph with some pack was swimming towards us, success. As I was watching it I accompanied by a host of grey spotted a couple of alpine swifts herons, a few great white egrets and flying over, another new bird for night herons, plus spoonbills and the list. As we came back down the little egrets, all cashing in on the road, we spotted a great spotted disturbance caused by the pelicans. cuckoo hopping about on the edge. They were apparently hovering up It flew up into a tree, where everything they came across – Graham managed to get a few shots Colin saw a pond tortoise disappear of it. These cuckoos are apparently into one pouch. Unlike the rare here, so this was a good record. spectacle of the cormorants, this We returned back to Viglatoras was easy to photograph and hugely with a surprisingly high bag of new entertaining. It was, in contrast to species, and after a most enjoyable the cormorants, a silent affair apart day despite the dull weather. from the splashing in the water. Our last dinner together was a good Eventually the pack must have seen one, with Filly and Stelios doing the us, as they all turned to their left at cooking. Stelios told us that they once, then eventually set off back were inspired to do evening meals across the marsh. It was great stuff, after providing dinner for the Gourmet Birds group last year.

11 with two sightings of very fresh Sunday 31st May Cleopatras.

I woke to find the mountains clear The BA flight was due in at 13.55, of cloud, though the lake was but had arrived early, so the group obscured by low cloud that will were all through with their luggage probably burn off. I found I was in the minibus by two o’clock. The sharing my room with a very drive should have been handsome striped hawkmoth. straightforward, but I turned off the dual-carriageway by mistake We set off at 8.45 for the airport, a 200 yards before the ring road, and drive that took nearly an hour and it took me 10 minutes to wind my three-quarters, though there wasn’t way back, through the outer much traffic. It was cloudy for suburbs of Thessalonica, to regain much of the way, and it was only the ring road. I did see a few birds later in the morning that the sun of note on the journey, including eventually broke through, both short-toed and lesser spotted producing a perfect afternoon that eagles and a honey buzzard. wasn’t too hot. After dropping However, much the most Colin and Graham off I managed to interesting sighting was on the road drive down to the coast, and had a up to Ano Poroia. On two or three walk along the seashore. If there damp patches of mud by the side of had been as many birds as plastic the road were huge congregations bottles it would have been a good of nettle-tree butterflies: they rose walk, but apart from a lone in clouds as we paused to look. It cormorant and a yellow-legged gull was difficult to estimate the I saw nothing. I then drove to the numbers, but there were many west, past the airport, on a busy hundreds if not thousands. I’ve dual carriageway lined with petrol never seen anything quite like it, stations and second-hand car even in Africa. We also saw two dealerships. In the end the road tortoises crossing the road, and a became single carriageway and rather strange snake that rather less busy, so I stopped at the resembled a huge slow worm. It first spot that looked reasonably didn’t seem to have any obvious pleasant. There were a few markings, but was quite quick swimmers and sunbathers on the when I went back to try and beach, but the only bird of interest photograph it. It certainly wasn’t a was a drake shelduck sitting on the slow worm, and was about two feet sea, all by himself. long. (It proved to be a European glass lizard, Ophisaurus apodus, a Behind the beach was a derelict legless lizard that looks, according campsite where nature was fast to the book, rather like a giant slow taking over. It held lots of birds, worm.) including nightingales, numerous blackbirds, greenfinches, a couple Stelios and Filly rustled up of pairs of serins, spotted flycatcher provisions to keep the group going, and even a red-backed shrike. I after which most of us went for a killed time here before going back circular walk around the village. to the airport for the pick-up. I also Apart from swallows, house added a new butterfly to my list, martins and tree sparrows, birds were few, but as we walked back we

12 had excellent views of a pair of butterflies on damp ground at the pallid swifts. It was a perfect, sunny side of the road. Mandraki Harbour evening, not too hot but warm in produced all the expected birds, the sun. including squacco, grey and night herons and singing great reed Dinner started with two types of warblers, but the peace was dips, with black bread that had shattered by a workman strimming been toasted in the oven. This was the grass around the information followed by salad, then casseroled centre (which was closed). It would beef with pasta (by which time have been much easier and quicker most people had eaten too much to for him if he had been using a do it justice), then yoghurt, walnuts proper mower. Many thousands of and honey to finish with. The scops cormorants were heading to the owls were very noisy in the night. northwest end of the reservoir to indulge in mass fishing. Monday 1st June We had a couple of short walks in A new month, and a mainly cloudy both directions, the one to the west start to the day. We left at 9.15, first memorable for walking through driving a short way up the clouds of nettle-tree butterflies. mountain. Two cock black-headed Spanish sparrows were bathing in buntings got us off to a great start, the puddles along the track, while as they showed well at close range both barn and red-rumped and were a lifer for everyone. David swallows were coming down to then managed to find a sombre tit, collect mud. and we all eventually gained excellent views of this Balkan As it was far too noisy to have lunch special, which looks a bit like a here, we drove past Veronia and up brownish willow tit. It was the road to the church, where I collecting thistledown. As we had knew there was a picnic table. It only had a glimpse of one last week was in the shade, so we had a very this was a most welcome sighting. pleasant picnic here, joined by a trio of dogs, one of which looked Next we had a good look at cock cirl much like a foxhound. They were bunting, shivering his tail as he pitifully thin, no doubt because sang. A woodchat shrike was they were riddled with worms. A scoped and we all saw a corn large flock of goats meandered past bunting, but a subalpine warbler us, their bells clanging cheerfully. was only glimpsed by a few. Golden orioles and nightingales sang all After lunch we had a hot walk to around us. Though the sun hadn’t the quarry, where we eventually yet broken through, it was warm saw two or three black-eared enough for good numbers of wheatears. Once again no luck with butterflies to be on the wing, the rock nuthatch, nor did we see including the rather showy Balkan the blue rock thrush, but a crag marbled whites. martin was a welcome addition to the list. As we walked back to the After a pleasant hour we dropped car I saw a couple of large down towards the main road, tortoiseshells and managed to passing once again great photograph a southern white congregations of nettle-tree admiral.

13 It was then back into the bus, and I decided to try a different down to the shores of the river, approach to the mountain, so we where we saw plenty of buffaloes turned up to the village of and bee-eaters. Lesser grey shrikes Akritoxori, following the showed well, while I had a couple of Birdwatching in Northern Greece brief views of kingfishers. I heard a instructions (site 10). We drove grey-headed woodpecker drum, but through the village and up to the failed to call the bird with the iPod, small reservoir, which we walked despite trying. For our final stop we round. Though there was plenty of crossed the river to the kingfisher song from nightingales and pool, but didn’t see much except for olivaceous warblers we didn’t see a a spoonbill, several night herons great deal other than a pair of red- and a couple of golden orioles that backed shrikes and a grey wagtail, perched out in the open on a dead but we did get a great view looking tree. Unfortunately one was a down to the lake. A raven appeared female, the other a young male, and before we left. Many nettle-tree not a bright golden individual. butterflies were basking in the sun in the low trees, opening up their By the time we drove back it had wings. clouded over and there wasn’t a butterfly to be seen. We hadn’t My next destination was warned Filly that we wanted to eat Megalahari, but as we crossed the in, but a Greek salad and buffalo Striminos we spotted a very large sausages was easily arranged, and herd of buffalo approaching. We we had a splendid meal that stopped to photograph them, and everyone did justice to. After then enjoyed the spectacle of the dinner I managed to get a scops owl entire herd crossing the river. It to answer me, but not to come was a bit like the migration in the within view. Mara, and we half expected to see crocodiles appear from nowhere to Tuesday 2nd June drag them under. There were about 250 cows, so they took some time After breakfast the German to cross. The shepherd’s two dogs birdwatcher, who has been staying came up to the road, and I thought at Viglatoras with his wife and that they were going to cross on the daughter, showed me an excellent bridge, but they went back and photograph of a scops owl he had swam the river after the buffaloes. taken from his room the night before. We left at 9.15, dropping After this diversion we enjoyed the down to the main road. Before we spectacle of massed cormorants had reached Mandraki I spotted a fishing on the lake. Driving along roller perched on wires by the side the southern embankment, we saw of the road. We stopped a little our first penduline tit, and then farther along and managed to get stopped to scope the whiskered good, if rather distant, views. A terns. Once again I found a pair of white stork was feeding on white-winged black terns that are grasshoppers in the field next to us, probably nesting here. Black- and appeared totally unconcerned headed gull, yellow-legged gull and by our presence, wandering almost common tern were also seen, while up to us as it foraged.

14 Dalmatian pelicans gave excellent made it quite comfortable. As we views. walked back, a singing black- headed bunting showed well. We went back to the picnic site for lunch. A Toyota RAV4 arrived, and We returned to Sidirakastro for a a girl came over to ask what group second try at the rock nuthatch, but we were. She was Hilary from again without success, though a Birdwing, accompanied by Steve black-eared wheatear was seen. The Mills who wrote the bird guide. I ice-cream shop was due to open at had a long chat with them, and 5pm, and at two minutes past the discovered various snippets of hour a young man appeared and information, such as where the opened up for us: Stuart bought the white-tailed eagles have their eyrie. round of ice creams, though most They also told me of a rock people had a mixture of frozen nuthatch nest visible from yoghurt and ice cream. Very good Sidirakastro, and of a quarry to the they were too. Our next stop was a south of Sidirakastro with four quick visit to the huge supermarket, pairs of rollers. Both sites seemed once again almost empty of worth investigating, so we went to shoppers. investigate. Back at Viglatoras, I hosed off the The nuthatch nest was apparently now dusty van, and managed to on a cliff face facing an excellent ice photograph a lattice brown cream and cake shop. We soon butterfly in the garden, a species I found both, but the latter was shut, haven’t knowingly seen before. I the former unoccupied. Crag also saw a large tortoiseshell in the martins provided some garden. compensation. We continued south to the Paleokastro cliffs, which we We ate out, returning to the found by following the instructions restaurant we had patronised twice for site 15. We saw two rollers as we last year. I couldn’t remember approached, which was promising, exactly where it was, but while we were soon to be rewarded fortunately managed to drive with great views of the nesting straight to it. I was welcomed by rollers at the quarry. At one stage the young man I remembered from two indulged in a furious and flashy last year, as he spoke some English. aerial chase, demonstrating their Everyone enjoyed their evening, considerable high-speed flying though the buffalo-steak eaters skills. When the rollers weren’t regretted their choice. The best bet showing we were well entertained seemed to be wild boar steak, by the nesting colony of bee-eaters. which I had, though the calamari Many of the nest holes were also proved popular. The fact that occupied by house sparrows, but we the restaurant didn’t take credit eventually found rock sparrows, cards caused a little consternation, too, which were scoped but sufficient euros were rustled up successfully. David surpassed to pay the bill. The wine, and later himself by finding a little owl – as I the liqueurs, flowed freely, so I took scoped it, another one appeared a merry group home at 10pm. from an adjacent hole, only to soon disappear from view again. It was Wednesday 3rd June very hot and sunny, but a breeze

15 A frustrating start to the morning, one else was going to do so) and as for some reason the Viglatoras along the river, and had a pleasant credit card machine didn’t get on time watching a variety of birds. with my debit card. Eventually, Golden orioles, a Syrian after 35 minutes of trying, I woodpecker and a hawfinch all managed to pay half of last week’s showed briefly, but we did well with bill. Thus we eventually set off at penduline tits. As we walked back I 9.40 instead of 9.15. We drove spotted a distant lesser spotted down to Kerkini, where our first eagle, soaring over the mountains, stop was at the small harbour. Here and also saw a buzzard, a chap came up to me and offered sparrowhawk and a couple of black us a boat ride to see the cormorant kites. A small patch of thistles was colony. We conversed in French as attracting butterflies, and here I the common language, which photographed what were either worked surprisingly well. He high brown or marbled fritillaries, recommended a morning ride, as freshly emerged and very bright. As he thought it might rain in the we drove back to the harbour we afternoon, so we arranged to come stopped for a pair of black-headed back at 11.30. wagtails.

I had planned to do a walk along Our boat ride was a pleasant the small river that drains into the experience. The boatman took us lake here, so we drove around on right in among the flooded wood the embankment. We hadn’t gone with huge numbers of nesting far when we came across a grey cormorants, many with large young heron tackling a very lively snake in the nests. There were also a few that was about three feet long. nests of herons, night herons and Every time the snake made a bid for spoonbills. Then birds were freedom the heron speared it again undisturbed by our passage. We just behind the head and dropped it then made our way a short distance back on the track, using a foot to try up the river, seeing a couple of and control its thrashing. The purple herons and a single great snake was aggressive, but there was white egret. A few mallard were little it could do against such a fast seen, plus a trio then a pair of and well-armed adversary. The ferruginous ducks. On our return battle went on for some time, until the hot sun eventually disappeared the fire engine came along the track behind the large, threatening towards us. The heron grabbed the clouds and it started to rain, though snake once more and flew off with fortunately not too heavily. It it, so we never witnessed the final thundered a bit when we got back outcome, though I’m sure the to dry land, but soon stopped so we heron eventually swallowed the drove round to my picnic site. snake. Minutes after setting out the picnic the rain started, and it rained quite We spent the next hour walking heavily for some time, while we ate along the overgrown river by the under the adjacent shelter. bridge. Sadly, a dead dog was Numerous waterproofs were hastily stretched out in the sand by the put on, but none were really side of the road, close to the farm needed. buildings. We walked past it (I should have moved it, as clearly no

16 Our next walk was along the shore spotted woodpecker feeding its at the Korifoudi marshes. Before fledged chick, and seeing a leaving the car I spotted a distant nightingale singing in the open. dark-phase booted eagle soaring Add on a pair of ravens, cirl over the mountains. There were buntings and a few jays, plus scores numerous herons to see as we set of house martins high in the blue off, with night herons the most sky, and it was a most enjoyable numerous. Golden orioles and start to the day. nightingales sang unseen from the poplars. Out on the marshes we After breakfast I took the group up found a single redshank, numerous to the church, where we saw tree drake mallards, then a pair of sparrows and a black-eared ferruginous ducks and a lone glossy wheatear, then back to the cherry ibis. A rather plain female black- tree where we soon had fine views headed wagtail perched for us, of a middle spotted woodpecker. A while a feeding party of spoonbills dark-phase booted eagle soared also entertained us. At one stage over the mountain at reasonable there were a few spots of rain but range. It was a good start, so we they came to nothing. continued down to the lake, parking at the picnic site and As we walked back I enjoyed seeing walking along the northern a variety of butterflies, including embankment. The best bird here brimstone, large tortoiseshell, was a male little bittern, but Queen of Spain and heath nobody saw it but me. I also gained fritillaries and black-veined whites. a brief view of three garganey, and Our last stop was at the old quarry later found one on the marsh, where I have found sombre tits in preening. There were only a couple the past. This time there wasn’t a of glossy ibises and three great lot, as it was probably too hot, but white egrets, but a drake shoveler we did get a good look at a found by David was a good addition woodlark, admired a cock cirl to the list. bunting and saw a distant sparrowhawk. It was then just a We stopped under each tree, short drive home, though there was enjoying the shade. Mulberry trees an ice-cream stop on the way. were fruiting plentifully. Other Stelios sportingly hosed down the birds seen included little grebe, van when we got back. kingfisher, bee-eater, hoopoe, common tern and the usual We had stuffed peppers for supper, assortment of marsh birds. The sun so it was a mainly vegetarian meal. was now hot, but with the After we had eaten F&S gave us an mountains at last clear of cloud and interesting history of the area. It a hint of a breeze it was very was raining lightly when we went to pleasant. bed. While we were eating our picnic a Thursday 4th June mass of cormorants came down the neck of the lake by us, indulging in It was a beautiful clear morning, so a mass fishing exercise. With them at 6.30 I went for a walk up the hill came scores of herons and egrets above the village. The birds were and a few pelicans of both species. good: I enjoyed watching a middle It was spectacular stuff, but really

17 needed a video camera to catch it Mandraki Harbour for some quiet all. final birdwatching. Unfortunately we had chosen a bad morning. After lunch we drove up to the BIG Important visitors were clearly due shopping centre, where Giles at the information centre, as the bought a pair of Lacoste shoes at area was a hive of activity, with what didn’t seem to be a bargain strimming, bulldozing and even a price. While the group investigated man with a screwdriver tightening the shops I watched a pair of black- up the picnic tables, all overseen by headed buntings on the edge of the a bloke with shades, slicked hair car park. and a Mercedes. After enjoying the usual assortment of birds, Our walk in the woods was including a particularly photogenic pleasingly productive. We saw both night heron, we drove back to the middle and great spotted mountains. woodpeckers, nuthatch and short- toed treecreeper, while I also called Here we had a pleasant half hour, up a robin. Nightingales sang all listening to nightingales, around us, we heard a blackcap, turtledoves, cirl buntings and and we also saw a marsh tit feeding golden orioles. A cock woodchat on a teasel. The border river was showed well, and a perched flowing furiously. Everyone enjoyed hawfinch was also good to see. The the splendour of the wood itself, sun was shining, the panorama with its magnificent old trees. below us looked magnificent, and There were a few more mosquitoes the first nettle-tree butterflies, large than last time, but nothing to worry tortoiseshells and Balkan marbled about. whites were already on the wing.

Our last stop was the quarry, where We had our last breakfast shortly we failed on roller but concluded after nine. Stelios’s card machine that there were three kestrel nests, wasn’t working, so I arranged to as we managed to see chicks in two pay the bill through bank transfer. holes. A black-headed bunting sang We then had an easy 100-minute behind us, while the sun was drive to the airport, arriving with suddenly very hot. It was then plenty of time for me to refuel the home, stopping for ice creams and bus and return it to Hertz. The BA then petrol. flight left on time, and we arrived back to find England cool, grey and Drinks in the garden before dinner. wet. Before drinks the little owl on the barrack roof put on a good display, and small parties of pallid swifts were whizzing round. My debit card at last worked on the machine. Our last dinner was mousaka, which proved popular.

Friday 5th June

A beautiful June morning. We left the hotel at 7 and drove down to