Liferafts Versus Tenders

Liferafts Versus Tenders By Capt. Fred Davis Many owners with large boats and yachts carry an extra boat or even two, just in case. In case of what, however, is a good question. While most people would say, "to use as a lifeboat," what many people consider a safety measure may only be suitable as a tender. In my opinion, if a boat is not capable of quick deployment, it cannot serve as a lifeboat. In fact, if it takes a great deal of effort to launch, it can actually become a threat to survival and rescue. There are a few exceptions, such as boats hanging from davits at the stern that have quick-release lines. But in general, in my 30-plus years of experience running a rescue and salvage business, I've seen many serious cases involving vessels with an extra boat that did not serve well as a lifeboat.

Canister life rafts come with mounts for you to install on deck, right where you need them. A true lifeboat must be capable of deploying fast in all kinds of conditions, from a sinking to a fire. It must then hold up and sustain the crew until a rescue is possible. While it is not a Coast Guard requirement for most recreational boats to carry an approved life raft – and they are expensive – it's a good idea to purchase one. If you already have a boat, here are some thoughts on how to evaluate whether it will be a help or a hindrance. POTENTIAL PROBLEMS In recent years, midsize and large cruisers have been built with oversize swim platforms to provide room for a RIB or inflatable to be carried on its side. The releases on most of these mounts are manual, meaning a quick pull allows the boat to fall into the water with just a slight push, and then it's easily boarded and unhooked from the platform. Even though most people use these boats as toys, they sometimes consider them lifeboats because of this ease of launching. Now, most stricken vessels do sink slowly, so there may be plenty of time to release a RIB after placing an emergency call on the VHF. However, there's no way to know just how fast sinking will occur until it actually happens. EAMLiferafts are rated according to the number of people they can carry. Other large vessels carry an extra boat that requires a crane or davit to raise and lower it. These boats should not be relied upon to serve as lifeboats. I remember the grounding of a 60-foot cruiser equipped with a 20-footer mounted on its top. Power to the davit system failed, so with tremendous effort, the four men aboard dragged the boat from its cradle and pushed it off the vessel's top. On its fall to the water, however, the outboard motor hit the cruiser's rail, and the small boat entered the water upside down. Though it provided a platform that the men could board and float upon, they had no protection from the weather and no means of control over the capsized vessel. Fortunately, they were rescued quickly, and the 60-footer was salvaged and towed to shore. But it took almost as much effort to salvage the small boat because righting it was impossible, and towing it caused it to dive and pull down on the towboat. This example points out another reason why boats tied down or those that require power to lower to the water are just not reliable as lifeboats. If you must go up on deck or onto the hardtop to release them, getting there could be a troublesome task in itself. Yachts tend to heel over when taking on water. Furthermore, the weight of the lifeboat can cause an extensive strain on lines or straps holding it, so it may be impossible to release. The shifting weight from the lifeboat and a person trying to launch can also cause the yacht to heel further, thus increasing the vessel's rate of sinking.

How you store a rescue boat on board can directly affect your successful and safe escape. Then there's the case of fire. Keep in mind, the first few minutes after a fire breaks out are critical and may be the only time you have to save your passengers and vessel. Fire always burns up, so if an intended lifeboat is stowed on top of a vessel, you will waste precious minutes trying to release it that would be better spent fighting the fire and getting PFDs on everyone. So is there ever a situation when a tender can end up being helpful in an emergency? Yes, in the case of sailboats that tow a small boat or carry one on their foredeck. Though these are mostly used to make a passage from an anchorage to shore and back, or to run out an anchor, they can be used to help the sailboat when it is aground. LIFE RAFT BASICS As explained earlier, the Coast Guard does not require recreational boaters to carry an approved life raft. Marine specialists agree, however, that if you go offshore, regardless of your boat's size, you should carry one. Even if you only travel close to shore, a life raft is a good idea. In waters colder than 78 degrees, hypothermia can occur within two hours. In tropical waters, protection from the sun and heat stroke are factors. There are three basic life raft designs: coastal, offshore and oceangoing. Coastal rafts are intended for quick rescue situations, when help is expected within a day. They are small, lightweight, inexpensive, and easy to deploy and store. Open a flap on the valise and extend the painter line, then give a hard pull, and the raft inflates automatically in less than 30 seconds, thanks to the self-contained CO2 inflation system. There is a caveat, however: Because they're intended for quick rescue, coastal life rafts lack features needed for long-term survival. That's where offshore rafts come in; they expand survival time to four or five days, with features like canopies. Most marine experts recommend purchasing an offshore raft, regardless of whether you intend to go offshore. "There are several types to choose from: single tube, twin tube, automatic erecting canopy, manual erecting canopy," explains Eloy Leal, director of operations/engineering for EAM, the world's largest distributor of aviation inflatable goods. "The simpler the life raft, the less expensive it will be. A single tube, manual-erect canopy life raft will be the basic, no-frills life raft."

DATREXValise-style liferafts can be kept in a cabin or another handy location. Oceangoing rafts are equipped for survival of at least 30 days. They are required on commercial vessels and some international racing vessels. They are generally made of more durable materials, include heavy-duty ballast systems and carry a price tag to match. Life rafts also vary in size. "Manufacturers use a certain formula to configure the size of each raft, which includes calculating the weight and height of a midsized adult," explains Dan Kelly, national sales manager at Datrex, which recently introduced a family of offshore life rafts for the recreational market called Sea-Safe. During recent tests in the UK and France, Sea-Safe self-righting life rafts won against fierce competition. "A buyer must determine what the average/maximum number of people is typically aboard and factor in size as well," Leal says. STOWAGE OPTIONS Also put at the top of your list where you plan to stow the raft. While its weight and size will help determine whether you keep it on deck or in the cabin, you need to choose whatever is the most accessible location. After all, a compact raft can be stowed below deck, but it does no good if there's no one capable of bringing it topside or if it's in a cluttered locker. Likewise, few cockpit lockers have lid dimensions to allow easy removal of a raft. Life rafts come in soft, flexible valises for below-deck storage or durable fiberglass canisters for deck mounting. Valise rafts tend to be lighter and therefore easier to take from boat to boat. A typical model rated for six people and with a canopy needs two and a half to three cubic feet. If your raft is stored in a properly designed locker, it will be less likely to be washed overboard in heavy weather. "With proper care and maintenance, a valise-style life raft can be used for years," Leal says. Canister-type rafts are bigger and heavier, but Leal says there's good reason to choose them: "Even though protected from the elements, [a valise style isn't] as rugged as a life raft packed in a canister." Kelly agrees: "The canisters can be mounted on deck in a cradle and have an option of a hydrostatic release mechanism. If the boat starts to sink, the hydrostatic release would inflate and release the life raft automatically." Another good reason for stowing it on deck versus atop the cabin is weight. A roof-mounted raft tends to raise the vertical center of gravity of the boat. This may be all right for 65-footers and up but a problem for 30- to 40- foot craft.

DATREXSome life rafts can be ordered with equipment like flares (8), a flashlight (9), a whistle (12), and drinking water (14). EQUIPMENT AND COSTS When you select your raft, consider the SEP (survival equipment pack) it contains – and add to it. Many have no food, water, flares, or first-aid supplies. But they often have space to add more things, such as spare glasses, medication, fishing gear and duct tape. Of utmost importance are signaling and communication devices; a fully charged handheld radio, plus a small solar charging kit, would be helpful. If you have an EPIRB and you chose a deck-mounted, canister-style raft, attach it so you and your EPIRB will drift together. Of course, buying a life raft brings up the all-important question of cost. But this in turn brings another question to mind: How much is your life worth? Valise life rafts tend to be less expensive initially, though they also tend to cost more to repack after they deploy. Also, price competition among manufacturers is fierce. Overall, costs can range from $900 to more than $6,000, plus a few hundred dollars in maintenance. There are also extras, such as the gear packed into the raft and the mounting mechanism. The hydrostatic release Kelly mentioned above retails for $100. Most life rafts must be inspected and repacked each year to keep the warranty in effect. They also need repacking after deployment. It's a good idea not to stretch the time limit, because a raft can deteriorate quickly if it suffers water damage, and gas cylinders need to be weighed and valves inspected to ensure the raft will inflate when needed. Rafts are also folded differently each time they are repacked so that wear doesn't occur in folded seams. Repacking also offers the opportunity to perform minor repairs and prevent them from becoming major, more expensive ones. Seek out a repacker who is a certified technician and approved by your raft manufacturer. Repackers generally welcome owners to examine their rafts to become familiar with them and perhaps add items to their equipment packs. It can be frustrating to have to pay hundreds of dollars for inspection and repacking, especially if you don't cruise much, but it's money worth spending for peace of mind. That same philosophy holds true for life rafts in general. You may not ever need to use it, but better to have the right equipment on board in case of an emergency than to find out the hard way that your tender isn't capable of saving your life.

Capt. Fred Davis was a salvor and BoatU.S. tower on the eastern shores of Lake Huron for more 30 years. He is currently an insurance company consultant and serves as an arbitrator for BoatU.S. His Boat Smart column has appeared in Go Boating, Lakeland Boating, Trailer Boats and Sea Magazine and is carried monthly in Heartland Boating, Mid-America Boating and Woods-N-Water News.