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First Published by Notion Press 2018 Copyright © Aparna Mudiganti Parinam 2018 All Rights Reserved.

ISBN 978-1-948372-37-4

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Edited by Aparna Mudiganti Parinam, Food photography and styling by: Aparna Mudiganti Parinam Contents

Foreword by Parimala Mudiganti xv Authors Note xvii Acknowledgements xix General Points to Remember before We Begin Preparing Chutneys xxi

COCONUT-BASED CHUTNEYS The Popular Red – Kobbari Pacchadi 3 with Green Chilies – The Subtle White Chutney 5 Mango-Coconut Chutney – Mavidikai Kobbari Pacchadi 7 Tender Leaves and Coconut Chutney – Chintachiguri Kobbari Pacchadi 9 Mint, and Coconut Chutney – Kothimir Kobbari Pacchadi 11

CURD BASED CHUTNEYS and Snakegourd Chutney – Potlakai Perugu Pacchadi 15 Tomato and Curd Chutney – Tamata Perugu Pacchadi 17 Coconut, Curd and Coriander Pacchadi – Kothimira Kobbari Perugu Pacchadi 19 Coconut Curd Chutney – Kobbari Perugu Pacchadi 21

LEAFY VEGETABLE BASED CHUTNEYS Tender Tamarind Leaves Chutney – Chintachiguru Pacchadi 25 Fenugreek Leaves Chutney – Menthi Koora Pacchadi 27 Coriander Chili Splendor – Kothimir Kharam 29 Coriander Leaves Chutney – Kothimir Pacchadi 31 Sorrel Leaves or Ambaadi Chutney – Gongura Pacchadi 33

VEGETABLE BASED CHUTNEYS Cucumber Chutney – Dosakai Pacchadi (Variant 1) 37 Lemon Cucumber Chutney – Dosakai Pacchadi (Variant 2) 39 Roasted Brinjal Chutney – Vankai Pulusu Pacchadi 41 Tangy and Spicy Tomato Chutney – Tamata Pacchadi 43 Chunky Tomato Chutney – Tamata Pacchadi 45 The Fenugreek Seeds Flavored Tomato Chutney – Tamata Pacchadi 47

Contents xi Tomato and Coriander Dip – Tomata Kothimira Pacchadi 49 Brinjal and Tomato Chutney – Vankaya Tamata Pacchadi 51 Cabbage and Tomato Chutney – Tamata Cabbage Pacchadi 53 Capsicum Tomato Chutney – Tamata Mirapakaya Pacchadi 55 Green Tomato Chutney – Pacchi Tamata Pacchadi 57 Simple Chutney – Amma’s Allam Pacchadi 59 The Piquantly Spiced Ginger Chutney – Allam Pacchadi 61 Mango Flavored Ginger Chutney – Mavida Allam Pacchadi 63 Ridge Gourd and Coriander Chutney – Beerakai Kothimira Pacchadi 64 Ridgegourd Chutney – Beerakai Chutney 66 Ridge Gourd Peels Chutney – Beerakaya Thokku 68 Ripe Ivy Gourd Chutney – Pandu Dondakaya Pacchadi 70 Red Bell Pepper and Coriander Chutney – Dabbu Erra Mirapakaya Pacchadi 72 Bottlegourd Chutney – Aanapkai pacchadi 74 Cabbage Chutney – The Subtle Leafy Relish 76 Carrot Chutney – Carrot Pacchadi 78

FRUIT BASED CHUTNEYS The Festival Chutney – Ugadi Pacchadi 83 Spicy Juice Dip – Nimmakaya Kharam 85 Karela or Bitter Gourd Chutney – Kakarkaya Gojju 86 Indian Gooseberry Chutney – Oosirikaya Pacchadi 88 Tender Tamarind Chutney – Chintakaya Pacchadi 89

NUTS BASED CHUTNEYS Groundnut Chutney – Cheenabadam Pacchadi 93 Peanut Coriander Chutney – Phalli Kothimir Pacchadi 95

SEEDS BASED CHUTNEYS Sesame Seeds Chutney – Nuvvulu Pacchadi 99

PULSES BASED CHUTNEYS Bengal Gram or Chana Chutney – Senaga Pappu Pacchadi 103 Split Green Gram or Moong Dal Chutney – Pesaru Pappu Pacchadi 105 Roasted Bengal Gram Chutney – Putanala Pappu Pacchadi 106 Split Pigeon Peas or Tur Dal Chutney – Kandi Pappu Pacchadi 108 Fried Gram Flour Chutney – Besan Pacchadi 110 xii Contents BONUS FEATURE Spicy Lentil Powder – Kandi Podi 115 Chutney Made with Spicy Lentil Powder – Kandi Podi Chutney 116 Curry Leaves Spice Mix – Karivepaaku Podi 117 Curry Leaves Spice Mix Chutney 118 Spicy Sesame Seeds Powder – Nuvvulu Podi 119

FOOD MEMOIRS My First Hero 129 The Easiest Breakfast Dish – 131 Rava Upma – Savory Thick Semolina Porridge 133 Dibba Rotti, the Indian Traditional ‘Stout’ Bread 135 Minappa Rotti 137 The Traditional ‘Dibba Rotti’ 139 Nostalgic Memories of ‘Pappu Mudda’ ( Balls) 140 Avakai – The Must Have and Popular Traditional Mango Pickle from Andhra (South ) 141 The Traditional Andhra Mango Pickle – Avakai (2–3 Kilograms) 145 Some Minapa Vadiyalu (Sun Dried Lentil Crispies) in My Curry, Please! 146 Minapa Vadiyalu (Sun Dried Lentil Crispies) 148 The Iconic South Indian Lentil Stew: Sambhar 150 Sambhar – The Spicy and Traditional Lentil Stew 151 Sabudana for Sankranti, the Harvest Festival 153 Saggubiyam Paramnnam (Sabudana Kheer) 155 M for Mavidikaya Pappu or Mango Dal 156 Mavidikaya Pappu – The Homely ‘Mango Dal’ 158 Tasty Fritters with Ash Gourd – Boodida Gummadikaya ‘Pacchi Vadiyalu’ 160 Boodida Gummadikaya Pacchi Vadiyalu – Gentle and Tasty Fritters with Ash Gourd 162 Healthy Cauliflower Stir Fry Curry 163 Spiced Cauliflower Curry 165 The ‘Nutritious’ Ragi (Finger Millet) 166 Ragi (Millet) Dosa – The Healthy Crepe 168 Poha Chewda, the All-Time Snack 169 Poha Chewda – A Savory Mix of 170 Some More (Andhra Style Tamarind Rice), Please! 171 Andhra Style Pulihora or Tamarind Rice 173

Contents xiii Coconut-Based Chutneys

Coconut is a versatile fruit, and it is used to make a variety of dishes. One such dish is the famous coconut chutney. There are varied versions of coconut chutney. One can make a variety of chutneys with it, like coconut chutney with red chilies or with green chilies; with coriander and chilies (which is famous in Goa and is used as a spread on sandwiches); with chana dal, or even with curd (along with some vegetables, like snake gourd or tomatoes). The Popular Red Coconut Chutney - Kobbari Pacchadi (The All-Time Favorite)

One fine day, as I was laying the dinner table, my daughter asked me what I had cooked for dinner. I listed out the routine dishes I had made: brinjal onion curry, ivy gourd (little gourd) fry, , rice and dahi (curd). She paused, as if in deep thought. I realized that she wanted to eat something tasty and yummy and suggested that I could make kobbarikai chutney (kobbari pacchadi or coconut chutney) for her. Her eyes sparkled, and she agreed, on one condition: that I should make it like her Ammamma (maternal grandmother). Now, this was a real challenge for me. My mother makes the tastiest coconut chutney in the world! In fact, at many potluck competitions, she had won the first prize for this signature dish – coconut chutney! It is one of the most famous and popular coconut chutneys of . Nevertheless, I took up this challenge and went about to make her all-time favorite chutney, hoping that I would win (being optimistic). Once it was ready, I served it to my daughter waiting with bated breath for her reaction. She exclaimed, “Yes, it’s yummy! Exactly like the one Ammamma makes!” This was the magic sentence I wanted to hear. I was elated. I did it! This was a test of my culinary expertise. After all these years, I can say that this coconut chutney made by me is somewhere close to the one which my mother makes. I cannot say it is of the same taste, but yes, the distinction is lesser now. All my family members love this yummy chutney; my parents, siblings, husband and daughter. Indeed, it is a versatile dish. It can be had with , all types of , , , upma, uppidi pindi, dibba rotti and plain rice. Rice mixed with this tangy chutney tastes heavenly!

Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: 10 minutes Serves: 4 persons

INGREDIENTS

ˆˆ 2 cups freshly grated coconut ˆˆ 3–4 red chilies ˆˆ 1 small lemon-sized ball of tamarind (soaked in little water, just enough to dip it)

Aparna Mudiganti Parinam 3 ˆˆ 1/4 teaspoon Turmeric ˆˆ 1/4 teaspoon (to be adjusted as per taste)

FOR SEASONING

ˆˆ 1 teaspoon split gram dal (urad dal) ˆˆ 1/2 teaspoon mustard seeds ˆˆ A pinch of asafoetida (hing) ˆˆ 2 teaspoons oil

METHOD

ˆˆ Heat a small pan and add small pieces of the red chilies to it. Fry for approximately one minute and then put off the heat. ˆˆ Grind the red chilies in a blender. Add grated coconut, salt, turmeric and four to five pieces of soaked tamarind. In my view, this is the key to its tangy and unique taste. Or add one teaspoon of tamarind paste. ˆˆ Grind to a coarse consistency, by intermittently, adding the water in which the tamarind was soaked. If you prefer it less tangy, you can add plain water, instead. ˆˆ Remove this chutney from the jar into a bowl. ˆˆ For seasoning: Heat oil, add urad dal and once it turns light brown, add mustard seeds and hing. Sauté and put off the heat. ˆˆ Add this seasoning to the chutney. And lo, your tangy and tasty chutney is ready to eat! Tip: Use fresh coconut, grated or coconut pieces broken into half an inch (preferably), for best results.

From earth herbs, from herbs food, from food seed, from seed man. Man thus consists of the essence of food. – Taittiriya Upanishad

4 Chutneys – Adding Spice to Your Life! Coconut Chutney with Green Chilies - The Subtle White Chutney

Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: 10 minutes Serves: 4 persons

INGREDIENTS

ˆˆ 2 cups grated coconut ˆˆ 3–4 green chilies ˆˆ 1–2 tablespoon tamarind paste ˆˆ 1/4 teaspoon salt (to be adjusted as per taste) ˆˆ 1/4 cup water (or as required)

FOR SEASONING (OPTIONAL)

ˆˆ 1 teaspoon split gram dal (urad dal) ˆˆ 1/2 teaspoon mustard seeds ˆˆ 1 teaspoon oil

METHOD

ˆˆ For seasoning: Heat oil in a small pan. Add urad dal and fry for a few minutes till it turns light golden in color. Add to it mustard seeds and let these splutter. ˆˆ Add asafoetida, fry and turn off the heat. Let it cool. Keep it aside. ˆˆ Add shredded coconut in a blender and grind it with chopped green chilies and tamarind paste. In case you do not have the shredded coconut readily available, you can add small pieces of coconut too. The number of chilies to be added can vary based on one’s preference for spiciness. ˆˆ Add some water, as required to obtain a fine paste. Add water with caution to avoid runny chutney. ˆˆ Dip your idlis, dosas or even rotis in this tangy chutney and enjoy.

Aparna Mudiganti Parinam 5 Tip: This chutney pairs very well with idlis and dosas and not with rice.

To prepare the food is to prepare yourself. To refine the food is to refine your own practice. – Zen Master Dogen

6 Chutneys – Adding Spice to Your Life! Mango-Coconut Chutney - Mavidikai Kobbari Pacchadi

How can I have a meal without a generous helping of tangy chutney? Mangoes hit the local markets, especially in Goa during early April. As the mango season sets in, it’s time for some tangy dishes like mango dal, mango rice and mango-coconut chutney. Every South Indian Brahmin meal is only complete with a helping of some fresh curd and rice at the end of the meal. As the combination, with just a dab of salt, is a bit bland (though at times, this simple combination can be heavenly!), we always supplement this with generous helpings of chutney or pickle. And mango-coconut chutney is a perfect accompaniment for this ambrosial meal. This chutney does not need seasoning. The seasoning is ground along with the coconut and the mango pieces.

Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: 10 minutes Serves: 4 persons

INGREDIENTS

ˆˆ 1 mango medium-sized ˆˆ 2 cups coconut (grated) ˆˆ 3–4 red chilies (more can be used based on one’s preference for spiciness) ˆˆ 3 tablespoon urad dal ˆˆ 1 teaspoon mustard seeds ˆˆ A pinch asafoetida ˆˆ 1/2 teaspoon fenugreek seeds (methi seeds) ˆˆ 1/4 teaspoon salt (to be adjusted as per taste) ˆˆ Water, as required

METHOD

ˆˆ Heat oil in a small pan. Add urad dal and fry for a few minutes till it turns light golden in color. ˆˆ Add to it mustard seeds and let these splutter. Break the red chilies into pieces, add to the seasoning and fry for a few seconds.

Aparna Mudiganti Parinam 7 ˆˆ Add asafoetida, sauté and turn off the heat. Let it cool. ˆˆ Powder the above mix, in a blender. Peel the mango and cut it into small pieces. Add it to the blender, along with the grated coconut. In case you do not have the grated coconut readily available, you can add small pieces of coconut too. Pound this mixture well, along with salt. ˆˆ Add some water, as required to obtain a coarse paste. Add water with caution to avoid runny chutney. ˆˆ The consistency of the chutney can be adjusted as per your preference either too coarse chutney or a fine paste. Tip: The coarser version of this chutney is tastier. This chutney does not need additional seasoning.

“You don’t have to cook fancy or complicated masterpieces — just good food from fresh ingredients.” – Julia Child

8 Chutneys – Adding Spice to Your Life! Tender Tamarind Leaves and Coconut Chutney - Chintachiguri Kobbari Pacchadi

Many years ago, my mother had made chutney with tender tamarind leaves. Later, based on this concept, I added these leaves as a souring agent to the traditional coconut chutney.

Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: 10 minutes Serves: 4 persons

INGREDIENTS

ˆˆ 1 cup grated coconut ˆˆ 2–3 red chilies ˆˆ 2 cup tender tamarind leaves ˆˆ 1/4 teaspoon Turmeric ˆˆ 1/4 teaspoon salt (to be adjusted as per taste)

FOR SEASONING

ˆˆ 1 teaspoon split gram dal (urad dal) ˆˆ 1/2 teaspoon mustard seeds ˆˆ A pinch of asafetida (hing) ˆˆ 2 teaspoon oil

METHOD

ˆˆ Heat a small pan and add small pieces of the red chilies to it. Fry for approximately one minute. Put off the heat. ˆˆ Grind the red chilies in a blender. Add grated coconut, salt, turmeric and the tender tamarind leaves (discard the stalks). ˆˆ Grind to a coarse consistency, by intermittently, adding the water in which the tamarind was soaked. If you prefer it less tangy, you can add plain water, instead. ˆˆ Remove this chutney from the jar into a bowl.

Aparna Mudiganti Parinam 9 ˆˆ For seasoning: Heat oil, add urad dal and once it turns light brown, add mustard seeds and hing. Sauté and put off the heat. ˆˆ Add this seasoning to the chutney. Savor this green, tangy chutney with rice, idlis or dosas. Tip: This chutney tastes best when it is freshly made.

When one’s food is pure, one’s being becomes pure – Chandogya Upanishad 7.26.2

10 Chutneys – Adding Spice to Your Life! Mint, Coriander and Coconut Chutney - Kothimir Kobbari Pacchadi (The Refreshing Dip)

Summers are the time to cool down! And this cooling chutney is the perfect accompaniment. This chutney gives you room to play around with the various ingredients. The freshness of mint coupled with the earthy aroma of coriander leaves and the crunchy taste of coconut makes a wonderful and tasty medley of flavors. No seasoning is added to this dish, so as to let the myriad flavors play and calm the senses!

Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: 10 minutes Serves: 4 persons

INGREDIENTS

ˆˆ 1/2 cup Mint leaves (Pudina) ˆˆ 1 cup coriander leaves ˆˆ 4 green chilies ˆˆ 3 tablespoons split black gram dal (urad dal) ˆˆ 1 cup coconut Grated ˆˆ 1 teaspoon cumin seeds/jeera ˆˆ 2 tablespoons tamarind paste ˆˆ 1/4 teaspoon salt (to be adjusted as per taste)

METHOD

ˆˆ Heat oil in a small, shallow pan/wok. Add the split black gram dal to it and fry until these turn light brown. ˆˆ Add cumin seeds and fry for few seconds. ˆˆ In the same pan, add chopped mint leaves, coriander leaves and green chilies. Sauté for a minute. Turn off the flame. ˆˆ Cool the above mix and add it to a blender and mix, to form a coarse paste.

Aparna Mudiganti Parinam 11 ˆˆ Add grated coconut, salt, tamarind paste and little water. Grind well to a fine paste. ˆˆ Based on your preference, you can add more water if required, to adjust the consistency of this chutney. Food and the eater: that is the extent of the whole world. – Brhadaranyaka Upanisad, 1.4.6

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