NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

United States Department of the Interior National Park Service

National Register of Historic Places Registration Form

This form is for use in nominating or requesting determinations for individual properties and districts. See instructions in National Register Bulletin, How to Complete the National Register of Historic Places Registration Form. If any item does not apply to the property being documented, enter "N/A" for "not applicable." For functions, architectural classification, materials, and areas of significance, enter only categories and subcategories from the instructions. Place additional certification comments, entries, and narrative items on continuation sheets if needed (NPS Form 10-900a).

1. Name of Property historic name Hunziker Winery Site other names/site number Name of Multiple Property Listing (Enter "N/A" if property is not part of a multiple property listing)

2. Location street & number not for publication city or town Warsaw vicinity state Illinois county Hancock zip code 62379

3. State/Federal Agency Certification

As the designated authority under the National Historic Preservation Act, as amended, I hereby certify that this nomination request for determination of eligibility meets the documentation standards for registering properties in the National Register of Historic Places and meets the procedural and professional requirements set forth in 36 CFR Part 60. In my opinion, the property meets does not meet the National Register Criteria. I recommend that this property be considered significant at the following level(s) of significance: national statewide X local Applicable National Register Criteria: : X A B C X D

Signature of certifying official/Title: Deputy State Historic Preservation Officer Date Illinois Department of Natural Resources State or Federal agency/bureau or Tribal Government

In my opinion, the property meets does not meet the National Register criteria.

Signature of commenting official Date

Title State or Federal agency/bureau or Tribal Government

4. National Park Service Certification I hereby certify that this property is:

entered in the National Register determined eligible for the National Register

determined not eligible for the National Register removed from the National Register

other (explain:)

Signature of the Keeper Date of Action

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United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

5. Classification

Ownership of Property Category of Property Number of Resources within Property (Check as many boxes as apply.) (Check only one box.) (Do not include previously listed resources in the count.)

Contributing Noncontributing private building(s) buildings public - Local district 1 0 site X public - State X site structure public - Federal structure object object 1 0 Total

Number of contributing resources previously listed in the National Register

6. Function or Use Historic Functions Current Functions (Enter categories from instructions.) (Enter categories from instructions.) Agriculture--Processing Vacant—Not in Use

7. Description

Architectural Classification Materials (Enter categories from instructions.) (Enter categories from instructions.)

foundation: Limestone

walls: wood

roof:

other: brick

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United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

Narrative Description (Describe the historic and current physical appearance and condition of the property. Describe contributing and noncontributing resources if applicable.Begin with a summary paragraph that briefly describes the general characteristics of the property, such as its location, type, style, method of construction, setting, size, and significant features. Indicate whether the property has historic integrity).

Summary Paragraph

The Hunziker Winery Site is located in the Cedar Glen Hill Prairie Nature Preserve near Warsaw, rural Hancock County, Illinois.1 This site, which is located in the SW1/4, SW1/4, Section 2, Township 4 North, Range 9 West, is situated approximately one mile east of Warsaw, and just over one-half mile south of the Mississippi River bluff line, in the uplands at the head of a small, deeply entrenched drainage surrounded by prominent ridge spurs. Although located within the corporate boundaries of Warsaw, the site is isolated and well removed from the developed town. The archaeological site, which has been assigned the trinomial number 11HA1005 by the Illinois Inventory of Archaeological Sites database, is not threatened by any proposed site improvements or construction.2

Narrative Description

The physical remains of the Hunziker Winery Site consists of surface features (identified as the physical remains of the Wine House and associated landscape features), and a large subterranean cavern or cellar. The site measures approximately 130’ east/west by 80’ north/south. The site is bordered on the west by an unpaved dirt road that runs roughly north/south at this location, 3 on the east by a second road4 and the head of a deeply entrenched ravine, and on both the north and south by scrub-timbered valley slopes. The Wine House would have housed the grape processing/crushing apparatus (crushing mill and wine press), initial fermentation, filtering and/or mixing vats, as well as potential bottling apparatus (if on-site bottling was conducted). The large underground cellar would have been the location of two rows of large wine barrels in which

1 This 110 acre parcel of land is known as the Egley South property. It was acquired from the Egley family by the Nature Conservancy in 1998, with the Illinois Department of Natural Resources acquiring it from the Nature Conservancy in 2005. In 2004, the parcel was registered with the Illinois Nature Preserves Commission as a protected conservation easement, and is part of the greater Mississippi River Sand Hills Nature Preserve.

2 The U.S. Bureau of the Treasury, Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau maintains an official list of the American Viticulture Areas (AVA), which represent “official” grape growing regions in the United States. In Illinois, two such areas exist: the Shawnee Hills AVA, and the Upper Mississippi Valley AVA. Areas historically associated with the Illinois wine industry along the Mississippi River Valley, from St. Louis to Rock Island, are not identified with a formal AVA designation.

3 Today this road originates from the south at East County Road 1050 (aka Main Street), and terminates at the ruins of what was the Hunziker farmstead immediately to the north of the Winery Site. Historically, this road appears to have originated at, or about, the H. F. Koeneke/J. Shonebacher farmstead (and passing through the adjacent C. Albers’ farmstead) and may have followed the drainage down into the Mississippi River valley immediately to the north of the Hunziker Winery site. At the mouth of this small drainage, in the narrow Mississippi Bottom at this location, was Waterman’s Distillery and a cluster of houses that developed at this location at an early date (see Figures 3-5).

4 This road appears to have accessed the entrance to the cellar from the south. It is unclear as to whether the road extended to the north as well.

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United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

secondary fermentation, and aging of the wine would have been undertaken. The Wine House was probably a single story, frame structure with a gable roof.

At the surface, the physical remains of the Wine House are represented by a perimeter stone foundation approximately 1’8” wide. The foundations indicate that the Wine House was approximately 20’6” wide by 53’0” long, and oriented approximately 30 degrees north of east, perpendicular to the slope at this location. With this orientation, the northwest corner of the Wine House nearly abuts the north/south road located along the western edge of the site, and is 10-12’ from the road at its southwest corner. The east wall of the Wine House is approximately 55-60’ west of the head of the ravine.5 As the Wine House was constructed into the side of the hill, the top of the building’s western foundation wall is currently at grade, whereas the top of the eastern foundation wall is 5-6’ above the ground surface at that location.

At grade, the Wine House (also known as the Press House) was a long, rectangular structure. It is unclear if the interior work floor of the Wine House had a single large room, or if it had been separated into multiple rooms. An interior foundation wall, albeit badly preserved, appears to indicate the possibility that an interior wall separated the work floor into two rooms, with a large room on the western end, and a very narrow (approximately 7-8’ wide) room on the eastern end of the building. The large western room, which would have measured approximately 19’ wide by 42’ in length, would have functioned as the primary work space for the wine production. Presumably a doorway, entering at grade level, was located on the western gable-end wall of this room. A series of windows were probably located along the north and south elevations of this building.

Tucked into the southeast corner of what probably was this large room is a stone pad, which measures approximately 6½’ by 7’ in size. This stone pad may have supported the large grape press once present in this structure. With the removal of the suspected press during the late nineteenth or early twentieth century, a brick chimney was constructed on this pad. The remains of the collapsed brick chimney are located along the south side of the building. The function of the smaller of the two ground-floor rooms is unknown.

The eastern one-fifth of the ground surface on the interior of the Wine House slopes sharply downward from the eastern edge of the stone pad, creating what apparently was a small basement room beneath the Wine House floor and above the underlying cellar. A door accessing this basement room is located within the eastern perimeter foundation wall of the Wine House. This door is 3’4” wide, and presumably original to the structure. As noted above, remnants of an interior stone foundation wall separating these two sections of the Wine House are present, but it apparently has collapsed into the small basement room.6 Both the interior and exterior surface of the high eastern perimeter foundation wall exhibits evidence of intense burning, suggesting that the Wine House may have been destroyed by fire.

5 The ravine has experienced severe erosion over the past 100 years, and is littered with a considerable amount of late nineteenth and early twentieth century debris that probably originated from within the Wine House and/or cellar. Included in this debris are numerous iron bands from large wine casks, and wine bottle fragments.

6 Archaeological investigations in this area would be relevant to address several issues relating to the construction, and use of this portion of the building.

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United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

Located along the inside surface of both the north and south perimeter foundation walls are the openings of four vents (referred to historically as “ventilators”) that accessed the underlying cellar. These vents are low domed channels that rise from the surface of the stone arch below and connect to the top of the perimeter foundation walls—two on each side of the structure. These vents originate mid-way up the sides of the stone arched ceiling and terminate at the top of the Wine House foundation walls overhead. In the cellar ceiling, the vent openings are formed of stone creating a 2’ wide by 1’6” rectangular opening with a shallow stone arch spanning the opening. In the center of the arch, the vent expands to 2’ in height (from the adjacent 1’6” tall side walls). Whereas most of the base and side walls of these vents were constructed of stone, the top of the vent conduit was constructed of brick. The upper section of these vents, where they intersect the Wine House foundation walls, have partially collapsed making it difficult to determine how they articulated with the above-grade structure and its perimeter foundation walls. It appears as though the vents partially pierced the adjacent perimeter foundation walls, and probably exited the frame side wall of the Wine House proper. No evidence of vent “covers,” or “shutters” were noted.

Located approximately 16’ off the southwest corner of the Wine House is a large, brick-lined cistern with a tooled stone cap. The cistern is approximately 8-10’ in diameter and 18’ deep. Extending off the southeast corner of the Wine House was a low stone retaining wall that formed the edge of a distinctive terrace running north/south at this location. The entrance to the underlying wine cellar was located approximately 18’ east of the Wine House. Flanking each side of the cellar entrance are two parallel, high retaining walls which formed a courtyard approximately 19’ by 20’ in size immediately to the east of the entrance. The southwest and northwest ends of these retaining walls were built at a 90-degree angle to the wall that formed the entrance to the cellar. It is unclear as to whether these high retaining walls were original to the structure, or not, as each of these corners had been rebuilt and/or strengthened by the addition of curved abutments. Clearly, these high retaining walls had been re-worked over the years. Impressions of a wood sill plate are present on the top surface of these retaining walls suggesting that a frame superstructure was once present over this “courtyard.” Although it is unclear as to whether this frame superstructure was original to the Wine House, it seems most-likely that it post- dates the Hunziker ownership and dates to a later period of occupation.

The eastern “courtyard” at the entrance to the wine cellar was accessed by dirt roadway along the eastern edge of the site. This roadway appears to have followed the valley slopes in a south easterly direction. Along the north edge of this courtyard is a prominent partially terraced slope. Along the south edge of this courtyard was a two-stepped terrace with a set of stone steps leading up-slope to the Wine House. Situated approximately 21’ south of the courtyard (and 32’ southwest of the Wine House), on the edge of the upper terrace, was a second brick-lined cistern. This cistern has a concrete cap with “11-10-1914 / Elvira Zimmer” inscribed into it.

At some point in the history of the complex, an addition was constructed onto the eastern end of the original Wine House on the flat terrace located between the Wine House proper and the lower entrance courtyard. The north wall of this addition is close to being in line with the north wall of the Wine House’s perimeter foundation and the cellar courtyard’s retaining wall. The south wall of this addition appears to have extended approximately 10’ farther south of the south perimeter wall of the Wine House. The stone steps noted above, and second cistern, are located adjacent to

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United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

the south wall of this addition. This addition would have measured approximately 20’ by 34’ in size. Several large piles of brick are located on the interior of what would have been this newer structural wing. The frame structure built on top of the two high retaining walls forming the lower “courtyard” may have been built at the same time as this addition. Both of these additions probably post-date the Hunziker’s family’s occupation of this site and use of the structure as a winery (having been constructed by the Zimmer family).

Sitting directly beneath the Wine House was the Wine Cellar. The Cellar is a stone-arched, or domed structure with interior measurements of approximately 16’0” wide by 50’2” long. Inside the main cellar, the stone arch springs to a height of 12’0” above the floor of the cellar. The walls of the cellar were approximately 24” thick, whereas the stone arch is approximately 1’8” thick. The stone arch was constructed on low side walls that rise 5’4” off the floor of the cellar. The cellar floor is laid in brick, with a herringbone pattern.

The cellar was originally accessed by two doorways—one on each end of the cellar. The main entrance, located on the east side of the cellar and facing into the ravine, was accessed via a 20’- long subsurface stone-arched entranceway. This entranceway is 8’0” wide, with a prominent door on its eastern end. Unfortunately, the entrance to the cellar has collapsed and no details of the actual doorway were present. The western doorway was 5’ wide and the opening was spanned by a low stone arch. Immediately above the stone arch was a chimney-like vent that was incorporated into the western end wall of the structure.7 This doorway has been infilled with stone, apparently at an early date. No evidence of an exterior bulkhead entranceway is present along the western end of the Wine House. The lack of space between the western gable-end wall of the Wine House and the adjacent road suggests that the bulkhead must have been fairly small, such as what might have been used to raise and lower wine barrels into the cellar from wagons using the adjacent roadway.

The physical remains of the above-grade Wine House coincided exactly with the main cellar below—with the two end walls of the cellar having been carried above grade where they became the western and eastern end walls of the Wine House’s perimeter foundation. Although it is unclear as to whether the south and north long walls of the underground cellar were carried up to form the corresponding perimeter foundation walls of the overhead Wine House, it seems likely that this was indeed how the structure was built.

The side walls and arched roof of the cellar and entranceway—as well as the overhead perimeter foundation walls—are all constructed of quarried limestone and/or dolomite. The walls of the cellar are a buff-colored dolomite, whereas the overhead dome was constructed with a slightly different stone (which has a bluish-grey color). This may suggest that this material was purchased from different quarries, or minimally at different times from the same quarry.

Three small portals pierce the ceiling of the underlying cellar at the peak of the arch. These small 4”-square openings would have facilitated the movement of the liquid (via leather or gutta-percha tubing) from the Wine House above to the cellar below. Additionally, four substantial vents—two

7 No evidence of this vent was noted within the overhead perimeter foundations.

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United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

along each side of the cellar—also pierce the overhead vault. These “vents” would have functioned as air shafts, ventilating the interior of the below-ground cellar to assist with controlling both temperature and humidity (see discussion above). Several iron bands from deteriorated wine casks were strewn around the entrance of the cellar, and into the ravine immediately to the east. These bands are fairly large (5-6’ in diameter), and suggest the use of fairly large, 500-gallon (?) casks.

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United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

8. Statement of Significance Applicable National Register Criteria Areas of Significance (Mark "x" in one or more boxes for the criteria qualifying the property for (Enter categories from instructions.) National Register listing.) ARCHAEOLOGY X A Property is associated with events that have made a significant contribution to the broad patterns of our history. AGRICULTURE

B Property is associated with the lives of persons significant in our past.

C Property embodies the distinctive characteristics of a type, period, or method of construction or represents the work of a master, or possesses high artistic values, or Period of Significance represents a significant and distinguishable entity whose components lack 1864-1893 individual distinction.

X D Property has yielded, or is likely to yield, information important in prehistory or history. Significant Dates

Criteria Considerations (Mark "x" in all the boxes that apply.) Significant Person Property is: (Complete only if Criterion B is marked above.)

A Owned by a religious institution or used for religious

purposes.

B removed from its original location. Cultural Affiliation(if applicable)

C a birthplace or grave.

D a cemetery.

E a reconstructed building, object, or structure. Architect/Builder

F a commemorative property.

G less than 50 years old or achieving significance within the past 50 years.

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United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

______Statement of Significance Summary Paragraph (Provide a summary paragraph that includes level of significance, applicable criteria, justification for the period of significance, and any applicable criteria considerations).

The Hunziker Winery Site is being nominated to the National Register of Historic Places under Criteria A and D. With regard to Criterion A, the site is being nominated for its local significance in the area of commerce. The Hunziker Site was one of several mid- century commercial wine production sites located in the vicinity of Warsaw and Nauvoo that helped established Hancock County as a regional center of wine production by the 1870s. As for Criterion D, the archaeological site is being nominated for its local significance in the area of archaeology. Having never been plowed, the site has remarkable archaeological integrity with remnant above-ground structural features (walls) still extant, and the well preserved remains of a large subterranean cellar once used in the production of wine. Additionally, although subsurface archaeological investigations have not been undertaken, all indications suggest that below-ground archaeological resources are intact and have the potential to contribute to our understanding of the modernization of this industrial production site from a predominately hand-powered to steam- and/or electric powered facility during the use- life of the site. The site has the ability to contribute significantly to our understanding of middle nineteenth century commercial wine production in western Illinois, and the modernization of that facility during the later nineteenth and early twentieth century years. The period of significance for the Hunziker Winery Site is 1864 (the date the property was purchased by Gottlieb Hunziker, and presumably the beginning of the Wine House construction) to 1893 (the date of Gottlieb’s death, and the approximate date that wine production ceased at the site).

______Narrative Statement of Significance(Provide at least one paragraph for each area of significance.)

A Short History of Warsaw and Hancock County

Hancock County is located in western Illinois, bordered on the north by Henderson County, on the east by McDonough and Schuyler Counties, and on the south by Adams County. The western edge of the county is bordered by the Mississippi River for a distance of approximately 30 miles. The Mississippi River, and its associated broad and deeply entrenched river valley, gives the county a distinctive character with a prominent bluff line dissected by smaller intermittent drainages of various sizes.

A significant geologic feature that affected the early settlement of Hancock County, and the surrounding region, is the presence of what was historically known as the “Lower Rapids” of the Mississippi River (also known as the Des Moines Rapids).8 These rapids, which were a major impediment to river travel, extended along the Mississippi River from Keokuk, Iowa/Hamilton, Illinois on the south, to Montrose, Iowa/Nauvoo, Illinois on the north., The mouth of the Des Moines River is located immediately downstream of the rapids (south of Keokuk, and opposite Warsaw).

8 The Upper Rapids were a similar impediment to river travel located at Rock Island. 9

United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

During the War of 1812, the U.S. government established two military forts at the lower end of the rapids to control the movement of enemy combatants along the Mississippi and Des Moines rivers. The first of these fortifications was a stockaded timber fort named Fort Johnson. Fort Johnson was a short-lived fort established in September 1814 by American troops retreating south after the Battle of Credit Island. Lacking provisions for the winter, this fortification was abandoned a few months later. In October 1815, American troops returned to construct a second fort nearby. During the construction of Fort Edwards, the site of the earlier Fort Johnson was re-occupied as Cantonment Davis. Both forts were constructed under the direction of Captain (and later President) Zachary Taylor. Fort Edwards was described as consisting “of two block houses, a magazine, and four other buildings, and enclosed about a quarter of an acre.” Although apparently “abandoned” in 1824-25 by the U.S. military, the fort continued to be utilized by the military and/or the American Fur Company for a couple more years, finally being “evacuated in about 1827.” The American Fur Company leased the property from the U.S. government from circa 1828 through 1832, and continued to use the fort and/or its buildings through that time period (Andreas 1874:12-13; Talbot 1968; Nolan 2009).9

The first house constructed outside of the fort was constructed in circa 1827. By the late 1820s, several dwelling houses had been constructed around the outskirts of the fort and occupied by a variety of traders, trappers, merchants, and their families. Settlement advanced rapidly during the initial years of the 1830s, and was not overly hampered by the Black Hawk War (1832). By 1832, the population of the small community was “about two dozen” families (Andreas 1874:12-13).

During the War of 1812 years, this portion of the Illinois Territory was part of Madison County, which consisted of that portion of Illinois north of Cahokia (and St. Clair County).10 In 1821, that area of Madison County located between the Illinois and Mississippi Rivers was established as Pike County, extending to the Wisconsin/Illinois state line and Lake Michigan. Over the next couple of years, Pike County was further subdivided, and in 1825 Adams, Calhoun, Pike, and Hancock Counties were partitioned with their existing boundaries being established. Upon formation of Pike County, initial county functions were carried out at Fort Edwards until the establishment of the first county seat at Montebello (which was located along the Mississippi River, between

9 Physical remains of both Forts Johnson and Edwards are well preserved within the city limits of Warsaw, Hancock County, Illinois. The Illinois Department of Natural Resources maintains the Fort Edwards State Memorial at the site of Fort Edwards (cf. Andreas 184:12-13; Nolan 2009; Nolan et al 2012; Fishel 2012a, b).

10 Much of this large tract of land between the two rivers was established by the Federal government as the Illinois Military Tract. Lands within this tract were given to soldiers as payment for their military service during the War of 1812. In 1815, the eastern half of Madison County was partitioned off to form Edwards County.

10 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

Warsaw and Nauvoo, near present-day Hamilton).11 Carthage, located near the geographical center of the county, became the county seat in 1833. Carthage was not only more geographically centered in the county, but also was situated at the intersection of two early roads that crossed the Military Tract and connected the Illinois River and Mississippi River valleys.12 By 1831, a ferry service was established at Fort Edwards connecting Hancock County to Alexandria, Missouri located immediately across the Mississippi River at Warsaw.

After the cessation of “hostilities” during the Black Hawk War in 1832, Illinois (and the nation) experienced an economic boon which was accompanied by the establishment of numerous towns across the state—one of which was the town of Warsaw (cf. Pooley 1908). In March 1834, the town was formally laid out and platted, with an addition to the original plat being laid out in only two years later in 1836. Warsaw quickly developed as a small entrepot community servicing the greater Hancock County hinterland of western Illinois. But this was to quickly change during the very late 1830s.

Beginning in late 1839, after their expulsion from the state of Missouri, a large influx of Mormon’s fleeing religious prosecution arrived in Hancock County. These settlers followed their prophet Joseph Smith to the small community of Commerce located at the head of the Lower Rapids, and quickly renamed the community Nauvoo. The community grew exponentially in size during the early 1840s, and by the middle 1840s was estimated to have over 10,000 individuals living in the community—representing the largest community in the State of Illinois at the time. Within a very short time, Nauvoo became the commercial center of Hancock County greatly surpassing Warsaw in its significance, as both a social or commercial center. In circa 1845, the population of Warsaw had reached approximately 473 individuals—compared to the over 10,000 present at Nauvoo (Andreas 1874:12-13; Gregg 1880:637-641).

For a variety of reasons (religious, economic, political), conflict soon developed between the Mormon religious sect and their neighbors. Warsaw quickly developed as the center of the anti-Mormon sentiment, and in the early 1840s, became one of the main bastions of opposition to the Mormons, particularly through the efforts of the Warsaw Signal, and

11 Monetebello would have been located along the Rock Island Trail, which was an overland trail that paralleled the Mississippi River connecting the greater St. Louis region with Forts Armstrong, the greater mining district around Galena, and military forts further north near Prairie du Chien (Fort Crawford). The townsite was inundated in circa 1913 with the construction of the Keokuk dam.

12 These early roads were: 1) the Commerce [Nauvoo] to Rushville to Beardstown Road, and 2) the Warsaw to Fountain Green to Peoria Road. The first of these two trails connected the upper reaches of the Lower Rapids to the central Illinois River Valley and the greater Sangamo Country located immediately across the river to the east. Similarly, the latter of these two trails connected the lower reaches of the Lower Rapids of the Mississippi River to the Upper stretches of the Illinois River valley at Peoria Lake. Both corridors probably pre-dated Anglo-American settlement in the region, and may have had their origins in antiquity (Salisbury 1916)..

11 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State its editor Thomas Sharp. This anti-Mormon sentiment became extremely virulent by late 1843, and in late June, 1844, Joseph Smith, and his brother Hyrum surrendered to authorities in Carthage to stand trial for inciting a riot (later changed to treason). On June 27, 1844, while incarcerated in the Carthage Jail awaiting trial, a mob stormed the building and both Joseph and Hyrum were killed. In 1845, mob violence intensified in the county, and the Nauvoo city charter was revoked by the Illinois legislature. Beginning in February 1846 and under the guidance of Brigham Young, the majority of the Mormons located in Nauvoo and Hancock County left that city for what was to become Salt Lake City.13

The Mormon exodus from Nauvoo was soon followed by the influx of a group of French utopians intent on establishing a communal society at Nauvoo. In early 1849, approximately 280 individuals arrived in Nauvoo with plans for establishing a communal society based on the religious beliefs and writings of Étienne Cabet. Cabet, a Frenchman, had come to the United States in 1848, and was eventually to establish utopian communities in Texas, Iowa, Missouri, California, and Illinois based on his teachings. Arriving in New Orleans, and hearing of the recently abandoned Mormon community of Nauvoo—where buildings were readily available at cheap prices—Cabet set out for that community with a group of followers, and Nauvoo became the first permanent Icarian settlement in the United States. Unfortunately, the Icarian settlement at Nauvoo was fraught with problems. Legal issues regarding property ownership, and a schism in leadership soon developed among the sect. In 1852, Cabet introduced major revisions to his doctrine which caused dissension among the members eventually resulting in the expulsion of Cabet’s followers from the community in October 1856. The expulsion of such a large portion of the community resulted in financial difficulty, and the eventual disbanding of the sect in 1860, with many of its members relocating to the nearby Icarian community in Corning, Iowa. At its peak, the Icarian population at Nauvoo was probably not much more than 500 individuals (Snyder and Sutton 1986).14

In 1850, the population of Warsaw was estimated at only 850 individuals (Warsaw 1962), but the population rose sharply during the decade of the 1850s, with the city’s population being estimated at 2,896 individuals in 1860 (USCB 1860). With the exodus of both the Mormons and Icarians from Nauvoo, Warsaw again became one of the more significant commercial and manufacturing centers along this stretch of the Mississippi River in Illinois. The 1859 Map of Hancock County, Illinois (Holmes and Arnold 1859) depicts the county immediately prior to the exodus of the Icarians from Nauvoo. At that time, the Nauvoo Business Directory accompanying the wall map has only eight entries, whereas the Carthage Business Directory has 30 entries. At that time, the Warsaw Business Directory led the list with 64 directory listings. These listings of commercial

13 http://www.pbs.org/mormons/peopleevents/e_opposition.html; http://www.pbs.org/mormons/peopleevents/e_migration.html

14 https://archive.org/details/immigrationofica00snyd

12 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State businesses in Warsaw at that time included pork packers, breweries, distilleries, flouring mills, a foundry and engine shop, marble works, and a suite of mercantile establishments typical of a regional center. Additionally, the map illustrates a spur of the Warsaw and Rockford Railroad which entered the town from the north and serviced the steamboat landing and riverfront levee commercial district. This railroad was organized in circa 1849-1853, with initial construction occurring between Warsaw and Hamilton. The first locomotive was off-loaded from the Mississippi River at Warsaw in 1858, and the following year (1859) the rail lines were operating from Warsaw to Carthage, presumably as part of the Wabash and Mississippi Railroad. 15 The rail line north to Nauvoo apparently was never constructed. The 1859 map depicted the “Quincy and Warsaw Railroad” running along the river south of Warsaw, and indicated this as only a “Projected” railroad line which was apparently never constructed.

Warsaw continued to see an increase in population through the 1860s. By 1870, the Federal census estimated the population of the community to be 3,583 individuals—an increase of nearly 24% over the previous decade (USCB 1870). But Warsaw had reached its peaked and began a slow, but steady decline in population that continued through the 1930s.16 By 1870, the U.S. Census of population indicated that Hancock County had increased to just under 41,000 inhabitants, with foreign-born residents being represented by 5,162 individuals. At that time, blacks were represented by only 174 individuals, with over half of the black inhabitants being located in Warsaw and Wilcox Townships, which was the most industrialized area of the county at that time.

In 1870, Warsaw had a population of 3,583 individuals, with the surrounding Wilcox Township having an additional 4,058 inhabitants. Together, Warsaw and the surrounding township consisted of slightly over 18.5% of the county’s population—significantly higher than that of Carthage, the county seat. Many of the foreign-born residents in Warsaw at the time were German, and to a lesser degree French immigrants, who remained in the county after the exodus of the Icarian sect from Nauvoo. Among the subscribers enumerated in the atlas as living in Nauvoo at that time were: John Bauer (Bavarian “Wine Grower” and “Justice of the Peace,” arrived in the county in 1851), Andrew Burtin (French immigrant listed simply as “Wine and Cattle,” arrived in 1853),

15 The Warsaw to Rockford Railroad was envisioned to be constructed in three stages, with the first stage constructed between Warsaw and Nauvoo skirting the Lower Rapids, and the second stage to be constructed from Rock Island to Port Byron skirting the Upper Rapids. The final stage of construction was envisioned as connecting the two lines (Nauvoo to Rock Island). Unfortunately, much of this early line was not constructed, and resulted in heavy debt to the City of Warsaw. In 1863, this railroad became the Warsaw, Rock Island and Galena Railroad, and in 1872 it became the Western Union Railroad.

16 In 1930, Warsaw’s population was estimated at 1,866. By the late 1930s this decline had stabilized somewhat, albeit for a short time. In 1940, the city’s population had increased to an estimated 1,895. Although the city increased in size by approximately 5% during the 1950s, it continued to decline in population throughout the later years of the twentieth century. By 2010, Warsaw’s population was estimated at only 1,607 individuals (USCB 1930-2010).

13 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

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Fredrick Baum (German “Wine Grower,” arrived from Baden, Germany in 1864), and Gustav Eberdt (German “Insurance Agent and Wine Grower,” arrived in 1862). Far fewer individuals associated with the wine industry were listed in the subscriber’s list for Wilcox Township and the city of Warsaw in the 1874 atlas. Those that were listed for rural Wilcox Township included: Caspar Hartmann (German “Vineyard and Farmer,” arrived in 1849), George B. Worthen (Massachusetts-born “Vineyard and Farmer” who claimed Warsaw as his nativity, arrived in county in 1837), and Amos H. Worthen, Jr. (Massachusetts-born “Vineyard and Farmer,” arrived in 1846). Those listed for the City of Warsaw included” C. Eymann (German “Wine Grower,” arrived in 1850), and Louis Stracke (German “Vintner,” arrived in 1866). Andreas (1874:13) notes that “wheat, corn, and oats are the principal agricultural products of Hancock County; but rye, hemp, flax, barley, beans, potatoes, and turnips are produced”—but makes no reference to the significance of viticulture to the local economy at that time.

The decline in importance of river transport, due in a large part by the growth of the railroads during the middle nineteenth century, had a dramatic effect on the economic growth and vitality of Warsaw during the later years of the nineteenth century. For a time, Warsaw was, in essence, due to the inability to cross the Lower Rapids, located at the head of navigation for heavily laden steamboats. Construction began on the Des Moines Rapids Canal in 1866-67, which eventually eliminated this impediment to river travel. This canal and its system of locks were designed to bypass the Lower Rapids, and were located on the western side of the river, conveniently located to Keokuk, Iowa. The canal was opened in 1877 (Tweet 1978). Similarly, early rail construction had focused on the vicinity of Hamilton as a potential Mississippi river crossing. In 1869-71, the Keokuk-Hamilton Bridge was constructed resulting in several rail lines converging at this location, and further isolating Warsaw. Between the new canal and the railroad bridge, commercial and industrial interests shifted north to Keokuk. The 1874 Illustrated Historical Atlas of Hancock County, Illinois (Andreas 1874) depicts both the canal and railroad bridge, and illustrates the relative isolation of Warsaw. By the later 1870s, much of the railroad fervor that had developed around the thought of Warsaw as a rail center had subsided, and the dreams of those promoting Warsaw as a rail center never materialized. In 1880, Warsaw’s population was estimated at only 3,105 individuals (down over 13% from 1880).17

American Wine Production: The Early Years18

Viticulture got off to a rough start in early America. The first colonists to the eastern seaboard were exposed to a variety of native grapes, but initial efforts to produce a palatable wine from

17 The population continued to decline during the next two decades, dropping over 12% in size during the 1880s, and over 14% in size during the 1890s.

18 The main source of information for this section is the classic work entitled A History of Wine in America: From the Beginnings to Prohibition by Thomas Pinney, published in 1989 (see also Lukacs 2000).

14 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State these New World varieties was unsuccessful. Most native grapes (such as the vitus labrusca, or northern fox grape encountered by New England settlers) were not suitable for wine production (often small, sour and with little juice). Not long after arrival, efforts were made to transport Old World vine cuttings to the colonies, but these European varieties did not survive well in the New World environments.19 Throughout the eighteenth century, many colonial entrepreneurs experimented with growing grapes in hopes of establishing a colonial wine industry. Among these individuals, during the later years of the century, were Thomas Jefferson and George Washington both of whom attempted to establish viable vineyards in Virginia. Unfortunately, the Revolutionary War put a halt to both men’s aspirations to produce a native wine industry.

Early efforts at establishing viable vineyards in the Mid-Atlantic region (particularly around Philadelphia) had been underway well before the American Revolution. William Penn himself had experimented with grapes in the seventeenth century, and the numerous German immigrants in the region had a long tradition of growing grapes in their homeland. Although not of German heritage, Benjamin Franklin was among the elite that was intent on establishing viable vineyards in America. Franklin was noted as saying “God loves to see us happy, and therefore He gave us wine” (Pinney 1989:86). Franklin gave directions for using local grapes for producing wine in his Poor Richard’s Almanack in1743. This experimentation intensified in the Philadelphia region with the establishment of the Sugar Act of 1764, and a subsequent duty on imported wines (particularly Portuguese Madeira). One significant development “around 1740” was the discovery of a “native” grape by James Alexander—the gardener for Thomas Penn (William Penn’s son)—“along the Schuylkill near the old vineyard established in 1683 by Andrew Coz for William Penn.” This grape, although initially believed to represent a native plant, was probably a “spontaneous hybrid of vinifera and labrusca vines.” The Alexander grape, as it was soon to be identified as, was to play an instrumental role in the first commercial wineries in America (Pinney 1989:84-85). Although experimentation with native grape production in the Philadelphia region was very active during the middle eighteenth century, the American Revolution dramatically curtailed efforts to develop a local wine industry.

Similarly, following the conclusion of the Revolutionary War, experimentation continued with efforts to establish viable vineyards in the newly created United States of America. At this time, as before, much of the discussion focused on what was the appropriate grape to be working with—whether the Old World vitus vinifera, or one of the many New World varieties (such as the common vitus labrusca). One success during this time period (circa 1820) was the propagation by Dr. D. N. Norton of what he believed were native vines (known as “Bland” grapes) in Richmond area of Virginia. By the 1820s, he was having success with his “Virginia Seedling” (which was also known as the “Norton Grape”). The Norton became one of the earliest, successful “native” varieties of grape in commercial production in the United States (Pinney 1989:82, 149). Although originally believed to have been a native grape, horticulturalists were later to realize that it was a hybrid between native and Old World stock, perhaps a result of the earlier experiments in grape propagation in the area a generation earlier.

19 The majority of European grape stock used for wine production is the variety vitus vinifera.

15 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

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During the early years of the nineteenth century, the trans-Appalachian West was a new frontier recognized for its grand agricultural potential—not the least of which was viticulture. The new territory offered a vast number of potential new grape varieties ready for exploitation and experimentation. In 1796, a young Swiss immigrant named Jean Jacques Dufour (or John James, as he preferred to be called in the United States), intent on establishing a commercial vineyard in the new Republic, arrived on the eastern seaboard. Initially visiting vineyards in, and around, New York and Philadelphia, he quickly became discouraged as to the character of viticulture in the United States at that time. While apparently in Philadelphia, Dufour was told of the success of the French Jesuits in the old Illinois Country (then the far reaches of the Northwest Territory) at Kaskaskia, in producing wine, and he soon traveled to the old French settlement only to discover “the forest had swallowed up the vines.” Leaving St. Louis on his return back east, Dufour visited the “Athens of the West,” Lexington, Kentucky and soon established the Kentucky Vineyard Society intent on establishing a commercial winery. In 1799, he returned east to purchase cuttings—the majority of which had been propagated from stock derived from the earlier Alexander Grape (Pinnery 1989:117-120).20 Although initial hopes were good, by the third season at his “First Vineyard,” the vines were failing. After re-building from the stock of two vines which seemed to be viable, Dufour produced some wine in 1803. From this initial run, Dufour sent two five-gallon casks of his wine to President Jefferson in Washington, D.C. Earlier, in 1802, Dufour had succeeded in convincing Congress of his vision of the Ohio valley rivaling the Rhine and Rhone valleys in the quality of their vineyards and wineries. At that time, having been granted four sections of land along the north shore of the Ohio River in the newly established Indiana Territory, Dufour began the development of his appropriately named “Second Vineyard” at that location, and established the community of New Switzerland (later known as Vevay, Ohio).21 Dufour returned to Europe to recruit new immigrants for his vision of a Ohio-valley wine district, only to be thwarted by the War of 1812. In his absence, New Switzerland began producing wine in circa 1806-07. Wine production at New Switzerland continued to prosper through the 1810s, peaking in production in circa 1820. The winery at New Switzerland represents one of the first successful commercial ventures for the production of wine in the United States. As part of his land grant, Dufour agreed to share his knowledge of viticulture to assist with the growth of the American industry. Prior to his death, in 1826 he published The American Vine-Dresser’s Guide (Piney 1989:122-124). Although his vineyard started to deteriorate during the latter 1820s, one writer discussing Vevay in 1836, noted that

Messrs. Dufour, Morerod, Bettens, Siebenthal, and others, commenced the cultivation of the grape on a large scale. This cultivation has gone on steadily increasing. A hundred experiments have been since commenced in different

20 The cuttings were grown and sold by Peter Legaux as a vinerfa named Cape Grape (and also known as the Schuylkill Grape). Although not acknowledged at the time, this was a native labrusca hybrid previously identified by James Alexander. Upon his relocation to Vevay, Dufour also propagated a second grape, Bland’s Madeira (another vinifera-labrusca hybrid from Virginia) (Pinney 1989:147-48).

21 Vevay, laid out in 1813, is located on the north bank of the Ohio River approximately 55 miles downriver from Cincinnati.

16 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

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points of the west. But this still remains the largest vineyard in the United States. We have witnessed nothing in our country, in the department of gardening and cultivation, which can compare with the richness of this vineyard, in the autumn, when the clusters are in maturity. Words feebly paint such a spectacle. The horn of plenty seems to have been emptied in the production of this rich fruit (Davenport 1836:426).22

In the first years of the nineteenth century (1803), a German immigrant named George Rapp arrived in the United States and soon established a religious communal society known as the Harmonists. Initially settling in western Pennsylvania (at a location called Harmony), the sect successfully began the production of wine on a moderately large scale, apparently following Dufour’s use of Alexander grapes. By 1809, the Harmonists had constructed a new brick winery, complete with wine storage cellar. In 1814, following the lead of Dufour, the Rapp attempted to get a land grant in the Indiana Territory from the U.S. government. Although unsuccessful in their grant, in 1814, the sect sold their property in Pennsylvania, and relocated the community to a location along the lower stretches of the Wabash River at what was to become New Harmony, Indiana. At this location, the Harmonists developed vineyards and continued to experiment with various varieties of grapes, producing wine through their departure in circa 1825 (to Economy, Pennsylvania—location of their third communal attempt).

The “Father of American Viticulture” is often considered to be John Adlum. Adlum was a professional land surveyor from York, Pennsylvania who had retired to a farm near Havre de Grace, Maryland in 1798. His farm was along the mouth of the Susquehanna River, and it was there that he experimented with local grapes found in the area, planted Alexander vines, and produced some wine of relative distinction. Pleased with his wine, he forwarded some of it to then President Thomas Jefferson, who pressed upon him the need to pursue the development of this grape. Adlum moved to Georgetown in 1814 and established a second farm in the District of Columbia, which he aptly named simply “the Vineyard.” The first wine produced by Adlum from his Georgetown farm was in 1822. The symbolic nature of a quality American wine produced in the nation’s capital did not go unnoticed by Jefferson and others. At that time, Adlum’s wine was produced from vines he called “Tokay.”

In sending a bottle to Jefferson, Adlum stated that the vine came from a Mrs. Scholl in Clarksburgh, Maryland, that a German priest had said the vine was ‘the true Tokay’ of Hungary, but that Mr. Scholl (now dead) had always called it the Catawba (Pinney 1989:142).

Apparently, Adlum had taken

cuttings from Mrs. Scholl's vine in the spring of 1819; by 1825 he had determined that ‘Tokay’ was a misnomer, and reverted to the late Mr. Scholl's name,

22 Dufour died in early 1827, and shortly thereafter his vineyards at Vevay began to fail, most likely to black rot. According to Piney (1989:126), aside from Davenport’s glowing description of the vineyard, a year after his death, “the vineyards were described as ‘degenerated,’ and by 1835 they had effectively ceased to exist.”

17 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

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Catawba, which belongs to a river rising in western North Carolina and flowing into South Carolina. Traditionally the grape was found first not far from present- day Asheville, in a region of poor, thinly timbered soil. Whether Scholl had any information to justify the name he gave the grape is not known. After the success of the grape had led to its wide distribution, a good many different stories about its origin were published, but none authoritative enough to settle the matter (Pinney 1969:142).

Adlum was a successful promoter and with the assistance of a complimentary letter from President Jefferson, his “Tokay” came to public notice via a short announcement in the American Farmer in 1823, and “after more than a century and a half of cultivation, it still remains one of the important native eastern hybrids; for winemaking” (Pinney 1989:142). Although not recognized at the time, the Catawba is believed to be a lambrusca variety, with attributes of a vinifera due to hybridization, and it was the “first native hybrid to make a wine of attractive quality.” With the promotion of the American Farmer and the popular agricultural press, the use of the Catawba grape spread rapidly. With rapid dissemination, growers quickly became aware that the Catawba, like most other varieties of the day, was susceptible to fungus diseases, particularly in the northern regions of the country.23

In 1823, Adlum published his Memoir on the Cultivation of the Vine in America, and the Best Mode of Making Wine. His manuscript was the first to stress that the American wine industry would need to be built off native, American varieties—and not on the Old World vinifera. Adlum’s new book, and the success of his new Catawba grape, “have made Adlum's mark on the record of American winegrowing permanent and visible to a degree hardly matched by any other individual's” (Pinney 1989:145). Adlum, more nurseryman than vintner, subsequently promoted the sale of his vine cuttings, through a second publication entitled Adlum on Making Wine (1826). This pamphlet promoted the “a number of vinifera grapes, but the heart of the list lay in the native vines: ‘Tokay’ (as he then called the Catawba), Schuylkill Muscadel (Alexander), Bland's Madeira, Clifton's Constantia (a variant of the Alexander), Muncy (later affirmed to be Catawba), Worthington, Red Juice, Carolina Purple Muscadine, and Orwigsburgh” (Pinney 1989:147-48). In 1828, Adlum published a second edition of his Memoir, which included four additional grape varieties—one of which was the Isabella. The Isabella was developed by a Long Island nurseryman and viticulturist named William Prince in the later 1810s, which is believed to have originated in South Carolina with the Catawba. According to Pinney (1989:148)

Adlum's list is a reasonably complete enumeration of what an American winegrower had to work with at the end of the first quarter of the nineteenth century. All of these varieties were accidents, the result of spontaneous seedlings; both the Isabella and the Catawba, the best two of the lot, have serious cultural defects and are susceptible to diseases that could not then be controlled; none was

23 The Catawba found a home in the Ohio valley, and Lake Erie District (and New York Finger Lakes region)—as well as in Hancock County, Illinois.

18 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

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fit for the production of red wine, a severe limitation if one agrees that it is the first duty of a wine to be red. It was not, in short, much of a basis to work on, but it was all that was available up to the decade before the Civil War. Then there was a great and sudden increase in the number of varieties available, thanks to a belated but enthusiastic outburst of interest in grape breeding [italics added].

By the late 1820s, the American wine industry was beginning to have some limited successes, despite the search for the perfect grape. At the very end of the eighteenth century [1798], Dufour had surveyed the state of vineyards in the new Republic, and found practically no viable vineyards to his liking. In 1825, a similar survey was conducted by Constantine Rafinesque (1783-1840). In his American Manual of Grape Vines and the Method of Making Wine (1825), he noted that there “were not more than sixty vineyards to be found in the entire country, ranging from one to twenty acres, and aggregating not more than six hundred acres altogether.” But, as a result of the success in research over the past decade, Rafinesque found the situation had changed dramatically by 1830.

Five years later, in 1830, Rafinesque found that the pace of things had accelerated in unmistakable fashion. There were then, he reported, two hundred vineyards of from three to forty acres, making a total of five thousand acres…” (Piney 1989:154).

In part, due to the success of Dufour and his work along the Ohio River at New Switzerland and/or Vevay, the central Ohio River valley soon developed into the center of wine production in the United States. Dufour, at the turn of the century, had talked of the Ohio valley rivalling the significance of the Rhine at some not so distant future, and his prediction was, apparently, coming true. Due to the efforts of one Nicholas Longworth, beginning in the early 1830s through shortly after the Civil War, Cincinnati became known as “The Rhineland of America,” with Cincinnati being “the scene of the first considerable wine production in this country…” (Piney 1989:156; Von Daacke 1964, 1967; Hannickel 2010, 2013).

An early Cincinnati lawyer, Nicholas Longworth, devoted much attention to his horticulture interests, and aware of the success of Dufour at Vevay, began experimenting with grapes in 1813. By 1823, Longworth was producing a white wine from the Alexander grape—one that he fortified with sugar and brandy—high alcohol content to suit the tastes of the American public who did not have “a native winegrowing tradition, and [were] long accustomed to rum and whiskey.” For many years, he experimented with vinifera in hopes of discovering a suitable grape, without success. In 1825, Adlum gave Longworth Catawba cuttings, and a few years later, in 1828, Longworth “retired” from his legal pursuits and devoted all his attention to viticulture. In her Domestic Manners of the Americans (1832), Frances Trollope wrote about Longworth’s wine

During my residence in America, I repeatedly tasted native wine from vineyards carefully cultivated, and on the fabrication of which a considerable degree of imported science had been bestowed; but the very best of it was miserable stuff.

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Growth was slow during the 1830s, but the local industry took an “explosive expansion” in 1842 when Longworth accidentally produced a “sparkling Catawba.”24 By 1850, Longworth was producing 60,000 bottles of this sparkling wine per year. By 1852, Longworth’s “sparkling Catawba” was receiving national attention, and was considerably more desirable by the average American consumer (Pinney 1989:157). In 1866, Longworth published a small booklet, with several wood cut views, entitled simply “Wine Making” which emphasized the production of his “sparkling wine” at his Cincinnati winery (Longworth’s Wine House 1866).

A large German immigrant population was present in the mid-century Cincinnati region, which Longworth wisely took advantage of to tend to his vineyards. Longworth’s strategy was to outfit German tenants (with an inherent knowledge and expertise in viticulture) with a small parcel of land for producing grapes, to purchase the grapes from the tenants, and focus on the actual wine production.

The dry white Catawba that Longworth succeeded in making was unappreciated by Americans used to sweeter and more potent confections; Longworth used to tell about how even the choicest Rheingaus were mistaken by American tasters for cider or even vinegar. The Germans, however, were better instructed, and for many years, Longworth wrote, ‘all the wine made at my vineyards, has been sold at our German coffee-houses, and drank in our city’ (Pinney 1989:159).

Part of Longworth’s early success with this wine was his use of “counterfeit” German-style labels in an effort to distract from the fact that his wine was a native product, and not from Europe.

Cist (1851:253-256) contains an interesting historical perspective on the Cincinnati wine industry at its peak in production in 1850. Describing it as “a new and very important business,” he proceeds to write:

This is already an important branch of horticulture in the valley of the Ohio, and rapidly on the increase. The time will come when our beautiful river may, not aptly, be termed the “Rhine of America.”25

The culture of the grape, for making wine, has been attempted in various parts of the United States, for the last fifty years… but nowhere, else has it succeeded so

24 Longworth constructed a 40’ by 50’ wine cellar in 1848 for the production of his “sparkling Catawba.”

25 Cist contains substantial information on the Cincinnati wine industry at this early [1850] date, as well as good descriptions of Longworth’s multi-story wine cellar and his role in reorganizing the labor force associated with the wine industry (Cist 1851:253, 266-67). Of interest is his discussion of Longworth’s effort at restructuring the agricultural labor force, and the introduction of a new building type: the Commercial Wine House.

20 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

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well as in the vicinity of this city; and here only satisfactorily within the last ten years… (Cist 1851:266).

Accompanying his gazetteer is a short work attached at the end of the publication, that he entitled “Grape Culture.” In that treatise, he wrote

As before stated, the principal vineyards of the West are in our own vicinity, say about nine hundred acres—near Ripley, fifty miles above, are some seventy five acres—near Vevay, eighty miles below, thirty or forty... (Cist 1851:267).

Cist proceeds to mention other regions that had some early success with their wine production, albeit not local to the Cincinnati area.

…around Charlestown, Ia., one hundred miles below us, and over two hundred acres—at Belleville, Ill., a few vineyards have been recently established, and at Hermann, a flourishing German settlement, about fifty miles above St. Louis, on the Missouri river, a number of fine vineyards have been started—in all, probably, forty or fifty acres, from which samples of excellent wine have been sent to this city (Cist 1851:267).26

The success of the viticulture industry in the Cincinnati region was further promoted by the establishment of the publication of local vintner Robert Buchanan’s Treatise on Grape Culture in Vineyards, in the Vicinity of Cincinnati in 1850, and the establishment of the American Wine Growers Association of Cincinnati in early 1851 (Buchanan 1850; von Daacke 1967).27 The American Wine Growers Association published the journal Western Horticultural Review, which first came out in1851. The peak in activity in the Cincinnati region was probably the late 1850s. Pinney (1989:165) states that “In 1859, perhaps the peak year in the history of Cincinnati’s wine- growing, some 2,000 acres produced 568,000 gallons of wine, putting Ohio at the head of the nation's wine production.”

But the Cincinnati grape growers were not as immune to black rot and mildew as they had hoped, and with the intensification of the industry in the region, these problems began to cause concern among the growers, who often experienced large losses.28 By 1859, Cist’s perception of

26 Charleston, Iowa is a small unincorporated area located 5 miles west of present-day Nauvoo, Illinois. It is unclear as to why he would mention this locale as a significant vineyard area containing over two hundred acres of vineyards—unless, for reasons unknown, he has mistakenly referred to Nauvoo, which he did not mention. Cist (1851:267) proceeds to discuss efforts in Kentucky, Pennsylvania, Georgia, and both North and South Carolina. This passage is very similar to Buchanan (1852 [1863]:62). Cozzen’s (1857) is an interesting mid-century history of the American wine industry.

27 The “of Cincinnati” was eventually dropped from their name. The Cincinnati Horticulture Society had been established earlier, in 1843.

28 Treatment for powdery mildew with sulfur dusting was not completely understood for several years yet, and although useful on vinifera plants, it was often detrimental to native American plants. Black rot was not effectively

21 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State the local wine industry has changed, and he notes that the local grape crop had suffered due to unfavorable weather conditions, as well as rot, over the past three or four years. The region’s wine production was meeting only the local demand, with many merchants supplying their customers with non-local Rhine wine (Cist 1859:337). Cist’s (1859:361-62) “Grape Culture” from 1851 had been reworked, shortened, and renamed “Grape Culture in Vineyards,” and lacks the enthusiasm and detail of the earlier version. One of the more interesting aspects of Cist’s 1859 work is his mention of the success of vineyards in distant California (Cist 1859:336-339, 361-362).29 Additionally, with the labor shortages experienced during the early 1860s and the American Civil War, the industry declined dramatically. Few new vineyards were planted in the region, and the industry declined quickly, being “mostly defunct” by 1870. One of the results of the decline in the industry at Cincinnati was the out-migration of many individuals intent on grape production into the Lake Erie region of northern Ohio (Cleveland and Sandusky regions) and New York State where a “grape fever” had begun in the later 1850s (Pinney 1989:172-174).

The mid-century was a period of experimentation and efforts to expand the list of viable grape varieties. No longer was the vintner dependent on the chance discovery of a hybrid growing in the wild, but selective experimentation was undertaken by many nurserymen in hopes of discovering a successful new strain. During this period, especially during the 1850s, there was an explosion of horticultural journals being published, as well as the establishment of local and state agricultural societies (along with their fairs and exhibitions), all of which helped make viticulture and winemaking “permanent institutions in the United States.” The Illinois State Horticulture Society was established in 1857. A flood of printed materials were published on all varieties of agriculture, including viticulture: the Horticulturist, founded in 1846; Cozzen’s Wine Press, in 1854-1861; the Grape Culturist published in St. Louis from 1869 to 1871 (Pinney 1989:221). It was also during this period, during the latter 1850s, that eastern viticulturists became aware (or “discovered”) the successful wine production “dating back to the seventeenth century, utilizing vinifera grapes, in the Rio Grande Valley of west Texas” (Pinney 1989:219).

The middle 1850s also witnessed the introduction of a new grape variety that was to change the face of the Midwestern wine industry. In the early 1840s, Ephraim Bull of Concord, Massachusetts propagated a grape from a wild vine that he had discovered on his property. Bull exhibited the grape at the Massachusetts Horticultural Society in 1853, and offered it for sale in1854.

treated until the middle 1880s, with the introduction of the Bordeaux mixture (a compound of copper sulphate and lime sprayed onto the plants) (Pinney 1989:171).

29 Foretelling the future importance of the California wine industry, Cist wrote that “The accounts of vineyard products in California are so very surprising as to appear like exaggerations, were we not already convinced of the existence of other remarkable production in that new and wonderful country. If half we hear be true, it must be the most favorable wine region in the world” (Cist 1859:361). One of the reasons California was so successful in their wine production was due to its Mediterranean-like climate, as well as the ability to grow vinifera grapes there. The fungal problems that plagued vinifera grapes in the Eastern United States were not prevalent in northern California.

22 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

From that moment it spread throughout the country with astonishing rapidity. So astute was the promotion and so eager the demand that in March 1854 Concord was selling for $5 a plant!

It reached western New York, the newest region of viticulture, in the year of its release, and it was established as a major variety in Missouri, the western edge of settlement, before the Civil War. No one can calculate the number of fences and back-yard arbors that Concord has adorned throughout America (even on the West Coast), where it has provided the archetypal idea of "grape" for generations of Americans. Its fruit and its foliage and its color are the model for most pictures of the grape in this country, so that the Concord image as well as the Concord flavor is standard for us. The reason for its success is concisely put by Bailey: “It was the first variety of sufficient hardiness, productiveness and immunity from diseases to carry the culture of the vine into every garden of the land…. Its tough and fruitful nature, and its adaptability to a wide variety of conditions, have made Concord almost irresistible to commercial growers.… Concord—a pure native of the natives, without a suspicion of vinifera genes… (Piney 1989:212-4).

During the latter 1850s, although viticulture in the Cincinnati region had begun to decline, the Germans in, and around, Hermann, Missouri began to flourish. The first vines planted in Hermann were of the Isabella variety, and were planted in 1845. Apparently, that same year, 50,000 vines were planted in, and around, Hermann, with the first wine being produced the following year (Blackwell 1990). The first Catawba crop came in 1848, Norton in 1850, and Concord in 1855. The 1850s were a period of rapid growth in the local grape industry, and by the 1860s the Missouri River Valley around Hermann was vying in importance “as the premier wine-producing area in the United States” (Blackwell 1990). In 1861, the Stone Hill Wine Company was formed. Although the small producers had a difficult time during the later years of the nineteenth century, due to low prices and disease, the Stone Hill Winery flourished and became the outlet for local grape production, buying the produce from the small producers—a business model established earlier by Longworth in the Cincinnati area.30 By 1912, the Stone Hill Winery was producing over 1,000,000 gallons of wine per year, “making it one of the largest wineries in the nation at that time” (Blackwell 1990; Pinney 1989:176-177).31 The success of the wine industry at Hermann has been attributed to a variety of reasons, including the early diversity in grape varieties (and not the dependence on one or two varieties, such as the Catawba), as well as the scientific approach to wine production.32

30 In July 1875, the Quincy Daily Whig reported “A LARGE SHIPMENT OF WINE” having been sent from Herman [sic], Missouri. Apparently, a John Fleisch of Hermann opened a wine cellar at 520 Hampshire Street in Quincy, and shipped 5,000 gallons of wine to that cellar. Fleisch was described as one of Hermann’s “most extensive and energetic wine growers… [and that this was] one of the largest shipments of wine ever made from this place at one time…”.

31 See also Husmann (1863, 1866a, b), Brown (2011).

32 Pinney (1989:181) suggests that viticulture expanded from Hermann into all corners of the state, and into Illinois and Kansas, as well. I do not question the significance of the Hermann wine industry during the middle nineteenth

23 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

In 1859, British consul Edwin Morris Erskine was tasked with assessing the winegrowing industry in the United States. As Pinney (1989:228-29) notes, Erskine’s summarizes the state of the industry “after the first fifty years of more or less successful production in the United States.” Erskine wrote

About 3,000 acres are cultivated as vineyards in the state of Ohio; 500 in Kentucky; 1,000 in Indiana; 500 in Missouri; 500 in Illinois; 100 in Georgia; 300 in North Carolina; 200 in South Carolina, with every prospect of a rapid increase in all. It is calculated that at least 2,000,000 gallons of wine are now raised in the United States, the average value of which may be taken at a dollar and a half the gallon.

At that time, neither the vineyards of western New York nor California had been sufficiently developed to make any significant contribution. The 1860 U.S. Census indicates that the national production of wine in that year was over 1.6 million gallons, with the industry firmly “centered upon Cincinnati, with its outlying provinces of Kentucky and Indiana.” California, with an estimated 246,000 gallons, was beginning to have an impact on the industry (Piney 1989:230). Illinois’ production in 1860 was only 50,690 gallons (USCB 1860; Kennedy 1864).33

In 1870, one Midwestern critic of California wines noted that “The climate of California and Mexico, did not seem to develop the bouquet requisite in a first class wine.… [and that] the time has come or is soon to come when we will not alone compete with European wines, Californians intend to occupy the field with us, therefore, we wish to show here by indisputable facts, that in this locality, I mean the great western valley of the Mississippi, we can produce as good, yea BETTER wines than California, if not as easily, cheaply and abundantly” (Reddington 1870:353- 54). Speaking of the future hopes of the region, Reddington continued by writing that “I believe that our valley will prove to be as good a wine district as the world affords. We have just begun, and now our wines are truly fine, (I mean the best), yet we have not found our best variety of grapes, best soil, or locations. We will yet find them in perfection, and far ahead of Europe, for they do not get their best on an average more than one year in eleven. Here we can do it each year. Progress here is rapid, and we will soon attain a high degree of perfection. We need have no fears of being defeated by competition. Quality and a home market will sustain the business” (Reddington 1870:356).

century, but I do question whether early Illinois efforts at viticulture by the Latinier farmers at Shiloh Valley (including the early Engelmann family) were significant players in the establishment of the industry in the German settled region of Illinois.

33 By far, the two largest producers of wine recorded for Illinois in the 1860 Agricultural Census were Monroe County (with 14,044 gallons produced) and DuPage County (with 14,251 gallons produced). Others of note included Boone (with 4,000 gallons), St. Clair (with 2,105 gallons), and Peoria (with 1,498 gallons) (http://agcensus.mannlib.cornell.edu/AgCensus/censusParts.do?year=1860).

24 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

Wine Production in Illinois and the Central Mississippi River Valley (with Special Reference to Hancock County)

Illinois: Early references suggest that wine production in what was known as the Illinois County during the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, was conducted by the French with success at both Kaskaskia, and Peoria. Dufour, in search of remnant vines once associated with the French vineyards, visited Kaskaskia in circa 1799-1800 without finding any vines, and unfortunately, little is known about the French and their early efforts. It is not until the middle nineteenth century that contemporary accounts (and later historians) begin to refer to the production of wine in Illinois.

One of the first—if not the first—discussions regarding the history of wine production in Illinois was recorded in the first issue of the Transactions of the Illinois State Agricultural Society by Hennepin County resident Smiley Shephard in 1854 (Shepherd 1854). In his paper, entitled The Grape; Its Cultivation Considered with Reference to Illinois, in Climate, Soil, and Location, Propagation, Planting, Cultivation, and Training; Comparative Products and Extent of Territory Suited to Wine Growing, Shepherd wrote that

intent of developing the resources of our country, promoting individual enterprise, fostering social and domestic economy; and last, though not least, introducing as an auxiliary in the cause of temperance, a pure, healthful and agreeable beverage, in place of ardent spirits and those deleterious compounds that are now the cause of untold curse and crime throughout our land (Shepherd 1854:484).34

In discussing the state’s agricultural potential, Shepherd (1854:485) noted that the state was well positioned as for latitude, and comparable with the great wine producing regions of Europe. He also noted that

The other conditions necessary with climate are situation and soil. A high, dry, undulating situation, with (according to latitude) a southern exposure, are matters of primary importance. Shepherd (1854:485)

The extent of territory in our state peculiarly suited to the production of the grape and not well suited to any cereal product (found principally along the banks and broken grounds in the vicinity of our water courses) may be estimated thus: on the east and south the Wabash and Ohio with their tributaries will afford 150 square miles; through the central part of the state the Illinois river with its tributaries will

34 A contemporary of Shepherd from Ottawa, Illinois wrote rather melodramatically that “there is no branch of farming which contributes so much to our health and a cheerful disposition as the cultivation of the grape, none in which the entire household so cordially and usefully engage, no sight so cheering as a fruitful vineyard with its continuous bows loaded with nature's choicest fruit. In all ages this has been the favorite occupation of man. Righteous Noah commenced farming by planting a vineyard. Why should the vine be neglected in Illinois with a climate so congenial, and unsurpassed by Italian skies, and where indigenous vines load and encircle every tree of the forest” (Brush 1855:495).

25 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

afford 300 square miles; on our western border the Mississippi with its tributaries will yield 250 square miles; a total of 700 square miles, or 448,000 acres. These acres, if reduced to cultivation and planted in vines, yielding at the rate herein before mentioned, (and they are not more than one-third of what might be profitably occupied this way,) would give a grand return of more than 75 millions of dollars, and yet leave all our present agricultural operations and productions room to expand many hundred per cent, upon the attainments of the year 1854. Surely we may as a state and people say that we have a goodly heritage in a pleasant land—a land flowing with milk and honey—a land of corn, and oil, and wine—a land of fruits and flowers—a land wanting nothing but honest hearts and willing hands to make a second Eden grow (Shepherd 1854:494).

This sentiment was also felt by H. L. Brush from Ottawa, who wrote On the Culture of the Vine in Illinois in 1857 that

It is gratifying to observe that the cultivation of our native grapes, and production of choice varieties by hybridization are enlisting such general attention. All nature affords a generous encouragement to such endeavors (Brush 1857:407).

During the middle 1850s, few varieties of grape were well suited to Illinois’ climate, soil, and pests, and it was the native grape that initially became the focus of local wine production. Ottawa resident H. L. Brush wrote that

The native frost grape found all over the western states and known as the Clinton grape in New York, produces wine strongly resembling pure port; which unadulterated is not equaled for medicinal properties by any foreign brands (Brush 1855:495). 35

35 A couple years later, Brush (1857:407) extolls the medicinal value of wine, stating that the use of wine "and grapes in [treating] certain kinds of fever is, at least, as old as Hippocrates. The Rhine wines are of diuretic quality, and the Germans say, ‘keep off the doctors.’ They are not alone in commending grapes and pure wines in the period of convalescence immediately following low fevers. According to Redding, ‘old thick wine is still a remedy in Cyprus for tertian and quartan agues, common in that and some other Greek islands, where the old wine used to burn like oil.’ For sanitary and medicinal purposes, we regard the tartaric acid of the grape as vastly superior to that of any other fruit, but particularly to the malic (apple) acid. For this reason we would gladly see that which is properly vinegar, vinaigre, or soured wine, substituted for that acidified cider, which most ungenerously has usurped its name and office…”

Several years later, the Illinois State Horticultural Society noted that “there is a strong feeling on the part of many of our members against encouraging the manufacture of wine from the grape; nevertheless it can hardly be denied that it is a legitimate business and that wine, however profaned to the ignoble abuse of intoxications, has an essential value and use. Most liquors, narcotics and beverages, from brandy to coffee, cannot be considered as the legitimate food of the well man. But as most men in an artificial state of society and social habits are not in a healthful state, we readily tolerate teas and coffees, and in many climates, beers, wines and even spirits, as articles of daily consumption and needful utility. They are medicines for a diseased body, or preventives of the natural results of those violations of natural laws of which all of us are guilty. Hence, we think that total abstinence men should say

26 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

I visited Greene county last fall, with a view to the manufacture of wine from their summer grape. As soon as it was known that I would purchase grapes there was a general rush for the thickets, and in three days the boys gathered 1,000 bushels of most excellent fruit; the grape not quite as large as the Catawba, covered with a rich bloom, and very tolerable for eating. What to do without a wine press was the question. The grapes were taken to a cider press, and the juice cleanly expressed, at the rate of 100 bushels per day, the barrels placed in a cool cellar, fermentation immediately commenced, the wine was racked off after refining in January, and is now selling readily at $2.50 per gallon by the barrel; recommended by the medical profession as better and more suitable than any imported article. The whole process was as simple and very similar to cider making.

Our winter or frost grape requires 5 gallons water to 4 gallons juice, and three pounds good sugar to each gallon of this product. The summer grape, richer in saccharine properties, requires less water and sugar. One third water and two pounds clarified sugar per gallon is probably the best proportion. While fermentation is progressing the bungs should be placed on loosely, so as to allow the escape of gas; and when it has entirely ceased, the barrels should be filled up full, and the bungs closed tight. The loss from evaporation should be restored every few weeks, keeping the vessels full. Native wine made from 15th September to 15th October, kept in a cool cellar, at a temperature of 50 to 60 degrees, refines itself and is fit to be racked off in January, and improves for years (Brush 1855:497).

By the middle 1850s, local farmers were beginning to introduce non-local grape varieties with mixed success.

There are as yet but two varieties of the grape found worthy of recommendation for extensive vineyard cultivation in the United States. These are the Isabella and Catawba. The Isabella, for a table and market fruit, is generally preferred. Its culinary and domestic uses will require something very superior before it is superseded. The Catawba, as a wine grape, is as yet far ahead of all competitors, besides ranking very respectably as a table and market fruit.36

of wine as Henry Ward Beecher of cider, that although as temperance men they cannot approve of it, ‘If you will make it, make it good’” (ISHS 1868:256).

36 Brush (1857:407) also praises the Catawba grape, noting that “no exotic grape grown under glass, ever surpassed in luxuriance our unrivalled Catawbas, grown in open air and cultivated by the acre, like corn. Were we so disposed, we could render the fruit of the vine not only as ‘plenty as blackberries,’ but so abundant as to leave nothing further to be desired. And doubtless the day is not far distant, when our farms will be considered incomplete without a generous vineyard.”

27 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

Of late, great efforts have been made to find new native varieties, and to produce seedlings that shall add to our present varieties, and surpass their qualities. Some new ones have been discovered, and several produced that promise well; but they mostly remain in the hands of speculators, more distinguished for their zeal in money making than for their regard to truth and right, in the means by which it is acquired (Shepherd 1854: 486).

The Isabella appears to be less subject to rot in high northern latitudes than in the so called sunny south; and the Catawba, so far as our observation extends, when planted in a proper soil, never rots in Illinois (Shepherd 1854:490).

Of note in Cist’s 1851 gazetteer of Cincinnati, which included detailed information on the local “grape culture” of that region, is his mention of other non-local regions which had had some success with wine production at that early date. Cist makes reference to significant vineyards “…around Charlestown, Ia., one hundred miles below us, and over two hundred acres—at Belleville, Ill., a few vineyards have been recently established…” (Cist 1851:267).37 Cist’s addition of the vineyards at Belleville in 1851 are noteworthy, and suggest the possibility that the early Latinier Farmers of Shiloh valley may have attempted early viticulture. Similarly, Cist’s mention of Charlestown, Iowa—a small unincorporated area across the Mississippi from Nauvoo—is hard to explain.

The extent of the pre-1850s production of wine in Illinois is poorly understood. Unfortunately, the 1840 U.S. Census of Agriculture only recorded horticultural products, and not wine. The U.S. Agricultural Census for 1850 noted the production of only 2,997 gallons of wine in Illinois for that particular year (USCB 1850; De Brow 1853). The two highest producers of wine at that time were Madison County (with 923 gallons produced) and St. Clair County (with 425 gallons produced)—potentially accounting for Cist’s (1851) mention of wine production “at Belleville, Illinois.” Although these numbers are low, they do suggest an early effort by the German immigrants of Madison and Monroe County at commercial wine production—at least production by vintners that was greater than home consumption.38

One of the first detailed accounts of the early history of the wine industry in Illinois is from Amos H. Worthen’s Geology of Illinois, which was published in 1866.39 In that report, Worthen

37 This reference to wine production at Belleville, Illinois was repeated by Buchanan in 1852 (Buchanan 1852[1861]:61). Buchanan wrote “At Hermann, Mo., about forty or fifty acres are in vineyards; and in the vicinity of St. Louis, and some other parts of the State, probably twenty or thirty acres more; a few at Belleville, Ill., and elsewhere in that State.” See also Cozzen (1857) for early reference to Hermann, Missouri and St. Louis.

38 In decreasing volume of wine production for 1850, trailing both Madison and St. Clair County, was Sangamon County (325 gallons), Edgar County (277 gallons), Adams County (150 gallons), Shelby County (135 gallons), Jersey County (115 gallons), and LaSalle County (104 gallons). No other county in that year produced more than 100 gallons of wine. Hancock County noted the production of only 60 gallons of wine in 1850 (DeBrow 1853).

39 Amos Henry Worthen was born on a farm near Bradford, Vermont, in October 1813. Amos married Miss Sarah Kimball in January 1834, and together the couple eventually had one daughter and six sons. At an early age,

28 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State notes the development of commercial vineyards in early Randolph County (1866:279), Hardin County (1866:375), and of wine production in St. Clair and Monroe Counties (1866:297-98).40 In discussing Randolph County, Worthen (1866:279-80) promotes Illinois’ viticulture potential and writes:

Between this prairie region and the bottom lands on the Okaw and the Mississippi river, there is a belt of country that is underlaid by the sandstones, shales and limestones of the Chester group, which is quite broken and hilly.

These broken lands arc well adapted to the growth of every kind of fruit suited to a temperate climate, and peaches, apples, pears, and all the smaller fruits may be successfully cultivated, even where the lands are too hilly for the cultivation of the cereals. Some of the enterprising German citizens of this county have already commenced the cultivation of the grape, and the manufacture of native wines, and have, so far, met with good success. It is still a question, whether the Catawba will succeed as well here as at more northern localities; but other varieties, as the Norton's Virginia, Concord, Delaware, &c., may, no doubt be successfully cultivated here. The Catawba seems to be less liable to be effected by mildew or rot, in a climate as cold as it can stand without protection, than in a comparatively mild one, and hence its cultivation in Southern Illinois has generally proved a partial failure, while at localities much farther north it has been eminently successful. That the broken and hilly lands along our principal streams, especially the bluffs of the Mississippi, and some other large rivers, where the marly deposit known as "loess" has been deposited, and is more or less intermingled with the soil, are admirably adapted to the growth of the vine, is no longer a doubtful

Worthen decided to move to the Far West, and after his marriage the couple moved to Cynthiana, Kentucky where they stayed only a short time, and then to Cumminsville, near Cincinnati, Ohio where he worked as a teacher. In June 1836, Worthen picked up and relocated to Warsaw, Hancock County, Illinois. Apparently, some of Sarah Worthen’s family—the Kimballs—had moved to the Warsaw vicinity earlier. Upon arrival in Warsaw, Worthen formed a partnership with two [?] of his wife’s brothers, for the operation of a mercantile business. Worthen remained in this business through 1855, at which time he began to devote his full attention to scientific endeavors— immediately taking up the study of geology. In 1853, Worthen was invited by Dr. J. G. Norwood, State Geologist, to assist him and was appointed assistant geologist, for the Illinois Geological Survey—a position he held for three years. In 1855, Worthen relocated to Iowa to work with the Geological Survey of Iowa, where he worked as the assistant to Iowa State Geologist James Hall. Worthen remained at that position through the close of 1857. In March 1858, Worthen was appointed Curator and State Geologist for the State Historical Library and Natural History Museum by Governor Cullom, a position he held until his death in early 1888 (White 1903). Amos’ older sister married a Captain Ellis Bliss, and had a child—N. W. Bliss. Both Bliss, and his younger uncle Amos, attended the Bradford Academy together (White 1903:342). George B. Worthen was the eldest son of Amos H. Worthen, born in January 1837. Gregg (1880:651) noted that George was “one of the most prominent horticulturists in Wilcox [Township]”(Biographical Review 1907:367-371). From 1857 to 1860, Worthen was living in Springfield (LHNHS).

40 Worthen (1866) presents summary reports on the geology (as well as agricultural characteristics) of select counties in Illinois. In his work, he makes only ancillary mention of wine production in Monroe County while discussing in more detail the agricultural virtues of adjacent St. Clair County.

29 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

problem, and the attention of the intelligent agriculturist has already demonstrated the fact, that Illinois is capable of producing, not only all the native wines required for home consumption, but also a large surplus for the supply of less favored regions. When pure native wines can be so easily produced in our own State, it is to be hoped that the time is not remote when its use will entirely supersede the nauseous and dangerous compounds that are now so commonly sold under the name of imported wines. Viewed exclusively as a matter of dollars and cents, there is no other product of the earth, the cultivation of which has been attempted in this portion of the State, that will afford as liberal a return for the labor expended, as may be obtained by the cultivation of the grape, and the time must surely come, and that at no very remote period, when all these broken lands now lying waste, and regarded as of little value except for the timber they afford, will be covered with vineyards, affording employment and sustenance to a healthy, moral and happy population.41

Similarly, in discussing St. Clair County, Worthen (1866:197-98) noted that:

The uplands are generally elevated from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet above the level of the Mississippi, and are beautifully diversified with prairie and timber. The prairies are generally of small size, and are mostly restricted to the central and eastern portions of the county. The varieties of timber noticed on the uplands are black, white and red oak, pig-nut and shellbark hickory, black and white walnut, elm, linden, hackberry, sugar maple, honey locust, wild cherry, red- bud and sassafras. Two varieties of the wild grape flourish luxuriantly on the timbered lands in this county. The summer grape (Vitis aestivalis) abounds in the groves upon the uplands, and the winter or frost grape (Vitis cordifolia) is equally abundant in the timbered lands of the Mississippi bottom, and along the smaller streams. The abundant and luxuriant growth of the wild or native vines in this county may be regarded as a certain indication of the adaptability of the soil to the cultivation of the finer varieties of grapes, and for the production of a fine quality of native wine, and the uniform success with which some of the best varieties of grapes have been grown in this and the adjoining county of Monroe, by the industrious German population of these counties, gives abundant assurance of the eventual success of this most important and profitable branch of horticulture. The Catawba grape has been grown for several years with tolerable success, though it is more subject to mildew here than two degrees further north, where it has been

41 Amos Worthen clearly had given some thought to viticulture during his early career. In reporting on a geologic survey he had conducted of Des Moines County across the river in Iowa which he had conducted during the summer of 1857 (while working as an assistant geologist for James Hall, Iowa State Geologist), Worthen wrote “the people of the West are hardly yet aware of the fact, that in the production of fruit, the broken lands along the streams will really yield a greater return for the labor expended on them, than can be obtained from the best corn and wheat lands in the country. It is hoped that the time is not distant when the slopes of our river bluffs will be covered with vines, furnishing an abundant supply of pure and wholesome wines to supersede the vile compounds now sold under that name” (Worthen 1857:208).

30 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

grown successfully for five or .six years, without any serious loss from this cause. It will probably be found that some other varieties, such as Norton's Virginia, Concord and Delaware, will prove to be better adapted to the soil and climate of Southern Illinois than the Catawba. Fruits of all kinds adapted to a temperate climate may be successfully grown in this county, especially in the vicinity of the river bluffs, and its proximity to St. Louis renders this a very desirable location for those desirous of engaging in this delightful pursuit.

Viticulture was clearly coming of age in Illinois (and adjacent Iowa and Missouri) by the middle 1860s. Farmers of German heritage, many of whom were concentrated in the greater American Bottom region opposite St. Louis, were some of the earliest to pursue viticulture in Illinois. In 1868, the Illinois State Horticultural Society had elaborated on the history of wine making in Illinois, and wrote that

Wine-making was commenced as long ago as 1847 by the Messrs. Koepfli, of Highland, Madison County, who in 1843 procured one hundred vines from Mr. Longworth, from which in 1847 they made one hundred bottles of wine. Louis Huff, of Belleville, planted two hundred vines in 1846 or 1847.42 Theo Engelmann planted a vineyard at Mascoutah in 1851.43 At Nauvoo the first vineyard was planted in 1852. Wine from the Catawba, therefore, has been manufactured in Illinois not less than twenty years. Of late years, Hancock in the region of Nauvoo and Warsaw is probably producing most. Monroe, St Clair and Madison, perhaps stand next. The wine of Theo. Engelmann stands deservedly high in the St Louis “Wein-Halle” and that of Nauvoo has been declared by good judges to be one of the best.44 But of the comparative merits of Illinois wines, against those of other States and counties, the committee are [sic] not sufficiently advised to speak (italics added) (ISHS 1868:255).45

42 Louis Huff was an “old resident” of the West End district, along Main Street. By the 1890s, he was proprietor of “Huff’s Garden.”

43 Theodore Engleman claims that he first made wine at Looking Glass Vineyard not in 1851, but a few years later, in 1854 (Englemann 1866:62).

44 The author of this work notes that “there is a warm discussion going on in our horticultural journals as to the propriety of adding sugar and water to the must of the grape before fermentation, in which Mr. Engelmann, of St. Clair County, has ably participated, but as most of our members are reading men, we need only refer the matter to say ‘Gallizing’ is tolerated and practiced by many of our wine-growers and is worth looking after, whatever be the conclusions arrived at” (ISHS 1868:256).

45 In this discussion of wine production in Illinois, the Horticultural Society made reference to several prominent wineries in the State at that time (1867). These included: the Whittlesey vineyard at St. Joseph, Wright vineyard at South Pass, James Starr’s vineyard at Alton and Elsha, J. M. Jordan’s vineyard at St. Louis, and a Mr. McPike’s vineyard at Alton (ISHS 1868:253-255).

31 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

The grape in some of its varieties can be grown in nearly every part of our State and its culture is extending largely within the last five years. To the Concord and its advocates we may give the credit of this rapid extension. This variety is very enduring of all grape ills and bears beautiful crops of a fruit that may be somewhat coarse and rank but which in the absence of better many have come to like. It thrives under neglect and repays the careful cultivator in the improved quality and increased quantity of its fruit… it is the grape. We find that old favorite the Catawba however still grown and praised on the Mississippi bluffs and even in the interior with good results and the superior quality of its fruit and wine will retain it still longer in spite of mildew and rot. The Isabella once a prominent grape may be now fairly reckoned as thrown out of our lists… (ISHS 1868:253-254)

The following year, in 1869, the Illinois State Horticultural Society,46 in describing early efforts at grape production in Madison County, modified their earlier comments and wrote that

The first point in the county at which grape growing was carried on in vineyards was I believe Highland. Caspar Koepfli who came from Switzerland in 1831, brought the European grape which as usual failed. In 1843, Joseph and Solomon Koepfli brought the first Catawba grape vines from Cincinnati, and in 1847, they made the first Highland wine, which was of excellent quality. Five acres were now set out by them with Catawba grapes, and the years 1850, 1853, 1857, 1861 and 1863 were as to quantity and quality good wine seasons. There are now many vineyards, covering many acres in the vicinity of Highland (ISHS 1869:312).47

Similarly, reminiscing on the early efforts of viticulture in adjacent St. Clair County, one early author noted that

Grapes abound in our forests, and some varieties even attain a certain degree of perfection, especially in certain favorable seasons. Good tame Catawba grapes have been raised, and good wine made therefrom since A. D. 1842. Theodore Hilgard, Senr., of west Belleville, was the first man, if I am rightly informed, who planted the first Catawba. His vineyard of about five acres has of late been grubbed up, not paying expenses of cultivation on account of leaf-blight and grape rot. Ludwig Huff, near West Belleville, planted a small vineyard, A. D.

46 “The Illinois State Horticultural Society was formed in 1857 for the purpose of representing fruit tree producers, sharing research findings and promoting the industry to consumers” (http://www.specialtygrowers.org/illinois-state- horticultural-association.html).

47 Heinrich Bosshard (1811-1877) settled south of Highland in 1860, on a prominent hill he called the Jura, located along Old Trenton Road. At this location, he became a fairly successful grower of grapes and a successful wine maker. His “Wine House” was located on the tallest point of the hill. Bosshard apparently was a Renaissance man known for his teaching, as well as for a variety of his scientific and literary works (including his poetry) (https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heinrich_Bosshard&prev=sea rch).

32 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

1846, which is the best Catawba vineyard in this county. It bore more or less every year, and is a good vineyard yet. His wine always had a high reputation; he cultivated it on the German principle as near as possible. Since then a great many Catawba vineyards were planted by Theodore Hilgard, Jr., Theodore Engelman, Col. Adolf Engelman, Louis Winter and Col. Hecker and others. All of them now and then make some very fine wine, but in general I do not think their vineyards paid more than expenses. It is safe to say they never were remunerative.

Of late years the Concord, Norton's Virginia, Clinton, Hartford Prolific, and some fifty, mostly worthless varieties, have been introduced, and the first named are now on a large scale cultivated by the following and other parties: Conrad Eisenmayer, Col. Hecker and Jacob Leisa, at Summerfield—each from ten to fourteen acres; Eisenmayer and Bro. Theodore Engelmann, George Leibrock, George Nestel and Adam Enirg, at Mascoutah – each from five to ten acres; Hammel & Kreider, Dr. S. Berger and Prof. Blair – each from five to ten acres, in Lebanon; Theodore Dauth, at Belleville, and Louis Winter, on Dutchhill—four to five acres. These vineyards have all proved very valuable, and all the parties are extending their acreage as far as I know. More than 20,000 gallons of wine are in the hands of the above named parties (Eisenmayer 1869:312).

The History of St. Clair County, Illinois (Brink, McDonough and Company 1881:64), in discussing the influx of German immigrants into St. Clair County in 1831, noted that they “were well-to-do agriculturists and tradesmen from Hesse-Darmstadt,” many of which were well educated and often referred to as the Latinier Farmers. 48 In discussing one particular arrival to Turkey Hill—Thomas Heberer—who located east of Belleville, the county history states

Heberer, who had enjoyed the advantages of a course of study at the agricultural academy of Fellerberg in Bern, Switzerland, was not satisfied with the cultivation of corn and wheat alone. He planted a vineyard as early as 1832, and was highly elated with his success in raising a crop the following year. John Knobloch, however, more practical than enthusiastic, calls this earliest product of Heberer’s vineyard, the vilest and meanest stuff that ever went under the name of wine.

The Transactions of the Illinois State Horticultural Society in 1869 also contains information on early efforts at grape production in Washington County.

In 1848, Darius Greenup and Mr. Carter planted Grape vines in and near Nashville, the county seat. The varieties were Catawba, and Isabella; many of these vines are still vigorous and productive. They have had some rot, but it has not been very serious (Wilgus 1869:319).49

48 The early Latinier Settlement was a cluster of well-to-do, and well educated urban folk who pursued farming in this Shiloh Valley area east of Belleville, rural St. Clair County, Illinois. .

49 See also Transactions of the Illinois Agricultural Society, Volume 7, pp. 310 (1868). Volume 11 of this same

33 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

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By the 1840s, farmers were experimenting with grape production in west central Illinois included vineyards in Adams County. The History of Adams County, Illinois (Murray 1879:436) noted that Horticulturists had been convinced for years that the natural conditions were favorable for grape growing but they had found it difficult to mature good crops of the old varieties, and many were looking toward an improvement of the large wild grape which abounded in our forests as the surest road to success. Some were working the Isabella on the wild stock, and as early as 1844. Mr. Wm. Stewart, Sr. had been partially successful by this method.

However, it was not until the introduction of the Concord grape in Adams County that viticulture was successful in that region. It was Deacon Scarborough of Payson who is credited with first introducing the Concord grape into Adams County. In 1855, he purchased vines from Concord, Massachusetts, and “this may be said to be the beginning of successful grape culture here….”

When, however, the merits of the Concord became known, and its perfect adaptation to our soil and climate had been proven, plantations were made all over the county. In five years from its introduction it was very generally disseminated, and in ten years grapes were shipped from Quincy to Chicago, St. Joseph, Leavenworth, and other more remote points. Vineyards are now found all over the county. So abundant is the supply that the price of grapes has fallen from twenty and twenty-five to two and three cents per pound. Even at these low rates many growers regard them as a profitable crop. Many new and excellent varieties have been added to the list, some of which succeed very well, but for all purposes, and especially in the hands of ordinary growers, the Concord is the most reliable, and it is still the principal variety cultivated (Murray 1879: 436).50

By 1870, several counties along the Mississippi River in Iowa, immediately opposite northern Hancock County and extending north to the mouth of the Rock River, had established vineyards. Of particular note, regarding grape and wine production, on the Iowa side of the river was Scott County. “George L. Davenport, the fortunate possessor of Clifton vineyard” had 6,000 vines and produced 2,000 gallons of wine “expressing the juice by a machine of his own invention, which picks the grapes from the stems, and performs all the operations without the necessity of using the wine press. He uses twelve pounds of grapes for a gallon of wine, racks it off by Christmas, adds sugar as it needs, and bottles in clear March weather, when the wine is between two and

publication contains information on the vineyards of Wabash County (1873).

50 Murray (1879) lists other successful, predominately German viticulturists in early Adams County. These included John Bart, Frank Kehlenbrink, Simon Glass, Phillip Antweiler, Christian Ernst, Christ Thomas, and P. H. Reinold.

34 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State three years old. He has on hand over twelve thousand bottles of old wine” (Shaffer 1870: 523; Western Historical Company 1879).51

Similarly, the 1860 U.S. Agricultural Census indicated that Illinois’ production for that year was only 50,690 gallons of wine (USCB 1860; Kennedy 1864). By far, the two largest producers of wine recorded for Illinois in the 1860 Agricultural Census were Monroe County (with 14,044 gallons produced) and DuPage County (with 14,251 gallons produced). Others of note included Boone (with 4,000 gallons), St. Clair (with 2,105 gallons), and Peoria (with 1,498 gallons) (http://agcensus.mannlib.cornell.edu/AgCensus/censusParts.do?year=1860). The 1850 Agricultural Census indicates that only 920 gallons of wine were produced in Hancock County that year.

Hancock County: Warsaw resident A. C. Hammond, writing in 1867, noted that “The grape perhaps succeeds better in the central district [of Illinois] than in any other portion of the State, and on the high bold bluffs of the Illinois and Mississippi rivers they are peculiarly at home. In Hancock county there is more capital invested in this enterprise than in any other county in the State” (Hammond 1868b:123).

It was the French Icarians that settled in Nauvoo that are generally given credit for the introduction of vineyards and wine production into Hancock County. Unlike the earlier Mormons, who did not endorse the consumption of wine, the Icarians endorsed wine consumption wholeheartedly. As Fuller (1996) states, “wine was an important beverage in this short-lived community.” Many German, Swiss, and French immigrants immigrated to Nauvoo during the latter 1840s and 1850s as part of the Icarian settlement.

Statistics for wine production in Hancock County—as well as the other counties of Illinois—are available in the U.S. Agricultural Census returns completed every ten years (U.S. Bureau of Census, Agricultural Schedules). The 1850 Agricultural Census for Hancock County indicates very little commercial activity associated with vineyards at that time.52 In 1850, only five individuals were listed in the county as having produced wine. These included Robert Bell (5 gallons), Landis Filson (10 gallons), Harvey Wells (15 gallons), and Arthur Morgan (20 gallons). Collectively all four individuals produced only 50 gallons. Unfortunately, the location of these individuals in Hancock County is currently unclear. Average volume of wine produced was 12.5

51 Another well respected Scott County winery was located at the Black Hawk Vineyards (property of Messrs. A. and F. Schmidt). The Black Hawk Vineyard had “all the appliances for making wine on a large scale…” and in the 1870 season 9,000 gallons of wine were produced “using over one hundred thousand pounds of their grapes of their own raising. They rack off their wine several times the first winter, and bottle the spring, or summer, following. A large proportion of their wines as sold by the barrel. So great has been the demand for their production that they have on hand but five hundred gallons of old wine—mostly of 1869” (Shaffer 1870: 523). In speaking of the development of the Scott County wineries, Shaffer (1870:523) states that “the development of any new enterprise, like wine-making, that adds wealth to a community, should be fostered and encouraged. Wine-making has made a demand for starch sugar with which to sweeten the wine, being superior to cane sugar, and a company is far advanced to that end.”

52 Line 28 of the schedule indicates gallons of wine produced.

35 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State gallons. This low level of production tallies the 1849 growing season (for the year ending June 1, 1850), and is consistent with non-commercial production generally associated with home use.

The 1860 U.S. Agricultural Census enumerates a slightly greater number of individuals who had produced wine in Hancock County during the 1859 growing season (for the year ending June 1, 1860). In that year, only ten individuals were indicated as having produced wine in the entire county—with nine indicated as living in Nauvoo, and one in Walker Township. The total gallons produced by these ten individuals was 805 gallons, with a low of 15 gallons (Karl Bohne; $1,500 farm value) to a high of 360 gallons (Harry Tiperd; $6,000 20-acre farm valued at $6,000). The second highest producer was John Baum [Bauer?] with 150 gallons of wine. His 8-acre farm was valued at $6,000, as well. Other recognizable names include Heis [?] Rheinerger [sic] (40 gallons; 4-acre farm valued at $1,500), Emil Baxter (50 gallons; 7-acre farm valued at $1,500), and John Siller (85 gallons; 19-acre farm valued at $5,500). These wine producers owned small acreage, which was relatively high valued and improved lands— suggesting investment in vineyards. Average wine produced per vintner was 80.5 gallons. No wine producers were noted for Warsaw or Wilcox Townships for 1860.

Hancock County developed very early as a significant wine producing region in Illinois—with noted geologist and paleontologist Amos Henry Worthen (and first curator of the Illinois State Museum) owning and operating one of the more significant early wineries in the region—The Golden Bluff Vineyard located south of Warsaw. As state geologist, Worthen published in 1866 his monumental work entitled Geology of Illinois. Included with his summary of the geology of Hancock County, Worthen wrote a summary of the Soil and Agricultural Products of Hancock County. In describing the dissected lands bordering the western edge of the county along the Mississippi River bluff, he noted that “the most productive apple orchards in the county are those planted along the bluffs of the Mississippi river” and “these lands, which have hitherto been considered the poorest in the county, are now considered the most valuable, and for the use of the fruit grower will command as much per acre as the best prairie lands” (Worthen 1866:341). Worthen continued by noting that

The cultivation of the Catawba grape for wine was undertaken a few years since by the German settlers at Nauvoo, and the marked success which attended the effort at that locality, stimulated others to follow their example, and this branch of horticulture has spread to such an extent as to place this county in advance of any other in the State in the production of pure native wines.

Accompanying Worthen’s short description of the soil and agricultural products of Hancock County was an extensive 8-page untitled report by N. W. Bliss53—Worthen’s nephew (his older sister’s son), school mate from Vermont, and neighbor. As Worthen noted, “the following statistics of vine growing and fruit culture generally in this county was prepared by N. W. BLISS, Esq. of Warsaw…” (Worthen 1866:341). Bliss’ described his 8-page work as “statistics showing the present extent of Grape Culture upon the bluffs of the Mississippi river, in this

53 Neziah Wright Bliss apparently preferred to be known as N. W. Bliss.

36 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State county, together with such remarks as I might choose to offer upon the adaptation of the soils and climate of this portion of the State to the culture of the Grape, and other fruits…” (Bliss 1866:342). This mid-1860s report—which represents the earliest history of the local viticulture industry of western Illinois—was thick with detail and statistics regarding the county’s vineyards and vintners, and was written at the beginning of a great boom in the industry which began immediately after the Civil War. Bliss’ work contains extensive county-wide statistics on the vineyards and wineries of Hancock County.

GRAPE CULTURE is, at present, attracting a large share of attention among the most active and intelligent of the horticulturists of our country. Its importance to the moral, social and industrial interests of our people is now being so thoroughly and practically brought to their notice, by the many discussions had upon the subject, before our lately formed horticultural societies and in our numerous and widely read agricultural journals, that it bids fair, at no distant day, to become a new and permanent branch of our agriculture, second in importance and money value to no single branch of agricultural pursuits now existing. Embracing within their limits the same degrees of latitude, and possessing throughout their central regions a climate identical, in mean temperature, with that of the wine-producing countries of Europe, it seems strange that a business so wide-spread and universal, in all ages and countries, as that of grape culture, should not have made greater progress in the United States, at the end of two centuries and a half after their settlement. It can only be accounted for by the fact that the United States were settled chiefly by emigrants from countries that did not produce wines, and that it is extremely difficult to change the habits of a people.

Bliss (1866) further extolls the virtues of his home, Hancock County…

The county of Hancock lies just north of the fortieth parallel of north latitude, being (curiously) in the same latitude as the city of Erivan, in Armenia, near which the vineyard of Noah is conjectured to have been planted, upon the identical spot of his residence before the flood, and where the vine still flourishes. Lying some ten degrees south of the district of country where the famous Rhein wines are produced, it possesses a warmer climate, a longer season and a more fertile soil. Like Kelley's Island and the shores of Lake Erie, so famous for their success in raising and ripening Catawba grapes, the bluffs of the Mississippi, in this county, lie within what some writer on the subject of grape culture has well termed "the magic circle, influenced by the near presence of a considerable body of water” (Bliss 1866:344).

Bliss details the early history and introduction of wine production into Hancock County.

Wine culture was first introduced into this county by John Sillar, a German carpenter, who came from Belleville, Illinois, and settled at Nauvoo in May, 1846. He bought an acre lot on Main street for $425 in gold. A wandering grape-

37 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

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root peddler, from Cincinnati, came along, and Sillar bought of him thirty-four Catawba grape roots, at 12½ cents each, and planted them in his Main street lot. The second year he had a bucketful of grapes; the third year, more. In 1850 he bought a five acre lot, but the title proving bad, he bought a lot in Kimball's addition to Nauvoo, upon the hill, and in the spring of 1851 planted 850 roots. 54 The same spring, A. Rheinberger planted 500 roots, at 10 cents each; and H. Schneider planted five cuttings, of which two grew. In 1853, Mr. Sillar made his first wine—probably the first ever made from grapes in the county—about 80 gallons, which sold for from $2 to $5 per gallon. In the dry year of 1854 he made 160 gallons. In 1855, he made 360 gallons, and planted four acres of vines, six by four feet apart, as he planted his first vines. In 1856, the cold winter killed the buds, as again occurred in 1864, excepting those buds covered by the snow. In 1857, he made 3500 gallons; in 1858, 80 gallons; in 1861, 2800 gallons; in 1862, 2700 gallons; in 1863, 2000 gallons; in 1864 (the frozen year), 500 gallons, of extra quality; and in 1865, 2000 gallons. He is still enlarging his vineyards, and intends planting 20,000 vines in the spring of 1866.

Mr. John Bauer emigrated to the Mississippi Valley from Ohio, in 1851. His wife met Mrs. Sillar on a steamer, and learned from her that property was cheap and grapes grew well at Nauvoo. Having been a wine cooper in Germany, he was induced by these facts to settle at Nauvoo; and in the fall of 1851, he bought eight acres of land there, on which was a small house, but no trees or vines. In the spring of 1852, he planted one acre of Catawba and Burgundy cuttings, 6x4 feet. They did not all grow, by any means, and he has replanted over and again, and the spaces are not all filled yet. In 1859, he planted two acres of Catawba roots, 6½x5 feet, and made his first wine in 1857—some 160 gallons. In 1858, [he] made 80 gallons, and the same in 1859. In 1860, he made 1300 gallons, and 1861, 1000 gallons—off this one acre. In 1862 and 1863, he made 3000 gallons, each year, from about 3¼ acres in vines. In 1864 (the frozen year), his crop was 400 gallons of excellent wine, and in 1865, 1400 gallons of wine, of unusual strength. Prices of wine have advanced from $1.25 per gallon, in 1860, to $2.50

54 Alois Rheinberger, a cooper, was a native of Vaduz, Liechtenstein. Rheinberger arrived in American in 1847, and initially settled in Columbus, Ohio where he worked as a cooper. He came to Nauvoo with his father and sister in November 1850, at which time he purchased an existing 4-room house, presumably constructed by a man named Wagner. In the spring of 1851, Rheinberger hired John Sillar, a German carpenter, to assist him in planting 500 Concord grape cuttings which he had paid ten cents apiece for, and created a 3-acre vineyard (part of which is still extant within the Nauvoo State Park) (Blum 1969:58). Eventually Rheinberger and his wife Margretha had 10 children and greatly expanded the house and adjoining landholdings. The improvements to his property included a stone arched wine cellar, over-head press room, and carriage house (Blum 1969; Online IDNR materials) [Ida Blum’s manuscript collections, including scrapbooks are located at BYU, Manuscript Collections]. The Rheinberger landholdings remained in the family possession through 1948, at which time it was sold to the State of Illinois, eventually becoming the Nauvoo State Park [which was established in 1950, and staffed by Nauvoo Historical Society since 1954]. Among its holdings are the Baxter wine press. Blum (1969:54) makes reference to the press room as having been constructed by George Ritter, and notes that the state park has three extant wine cellars. These wine cellars, and the related Rheinberger Wine House, warrant documentation and inclusion into this report.

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Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

per gallon, in 1866. The value of Mr. Bauer’s crops from 3¼ acres, for the years 1862, 1863 and 1865, has not been less than $3,500 each year.

From such small and insignificant beginnings wine culture has grown, till in January, 1866, Nauvoo has 250 and Warsaw 75 vineyards, and there are 700,000 vines growing in the county; and the wine crop of last fall, though partially injured by the extremely wet season, amounted to 47,000 gallons (Bliss 1866:344- 346).

Owing to different causes, such as careful or careless preparation and after-culture of the ground, closer or wider planting and the great variety of treatment given to the vines, the yield of wine has not been at all uniform; but there has been no failure of crop, from any cause but excessive cold, for the thirteen to fifteen years that Catawba vines have been bearing in the county. We claim that the river bluffs of our county present locations that are, by climate, soil and position, peculiarly favorable to the raising and ripening of Catawba grapes, and to giving them their full wine-producing qualities; and the value of this fact to our county will be readily appreciated by those whose interest in the subject has led them to investigate it, till they have become convinced that the Catawba is the only grape, producing a white wine, that has been thoroughly tested in extended vineyard culture, in our country, and proven a success. The terrible Oidium Tuckeri or Mildew, that commits such ravages upon the Catawba and other varieties of grapes, in the latitude of Cincinnati, St. Louis and Hermann, has not affected the vines here, until the excessive humidity and heat of the season of 1865 caused a partial loss of crop by mildew—but only partial; and we claim that that loss was owing wholly to the extraordinary season, and not to our soil, or climate, or variety of grape, or age of vines. It cannot have been caused by the soil or climate, for it never occurred before; it cannot have been the variety of grape, for all kinds rotted; nor can it have been the age of the vines, as some would have us suppose, for we have had thirteen crops of grapes in this county, and setting aside the first two crops as good, because the vines were young, we still have, in the remaining crops, just ten times as much evidence that our partial loss of crop in 1865 was not owing to the age of the vines as we have that it was.

Nauvoo has twenty-three and Warsaw four stone-arched wine cellars, while many more are about being built, and many cellars are rendered cool by being doubly ceiled. I enclose tables of carefully collected statistics of vine planting and wine making, in various parts of our county. As to varieties of grapes, on account of our unusual success here with the Catawba, full 90 per cent, of the 700,000 vines planted in the county, are of that variety. Mr. Bauer, a year or so ago, stepped in at a wine fair held at Belleville, and found Father Muench, of Missouri, delivering an address upon vine culture, and denouncing the Catawba for its liability to disease, and general unreliability. At the close of his remarks Mr. Bauer begged leave to give his "experience," and when he had done it Mr. Muench made the

39 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

"amende honorable," so far as this region is concerned, by saying "if you can do that with the Catawba, in Hancock county, don't plant any other variety;" and the people here agree that it was well said, and will vote any new variety of grape, for white wine, that, when fully and extensively tested, equals the Catawba, an acquisition indeed.

Of course those observing the large number of vines growing, and the moderate amount of wine made, will understand that it is owing to the fact that so large a proportion of the vines have been planted within the last three years.

Writing a few years later, Gregg (1880:959-60) claims that it was the Icarian John Bauer who was credited with bringing commercial wine production to Nauvoo. Gregg (1880:959-960) states that Bauer was “one of Nauvoo’s influential citizens” and “was the first to introduce the making of wine in Nauvoo.” Bauer was born in April 1807 in the “Rhinish Province of Bavaria.” In the old country, John’s father Jacob “followed through life various businesses, of mercantile, mechanical and agricultural nature. He attained eminent proficiency as a business man, an able cooper, a successful raiser of the vine, and manufacturer of wine.” He died in 1847, but his son John, at the age of 20—in circa 1827—“began life in agricultural pursuits making the cultivation of the grape, its proper grafting, training, etc., a specialty.” In 1833, John Bauer immigrated to America, initially settling in Ohio. In 1850, Bauer relocated to Freeport, Stephenson County, Illinois where he pursued a successful boot and shoe business for a short period of time. In circa 1851-2, after only a year in Freeport, he relocated to Nauvoo, and upon arriving in that community, he “engaged in mercantile and agricultural pursuits… It will not be out of taste to finally remark that Mr. Bauer introduced the making of wine in Nauvoo before any others.”55

Several other Icarians contributed significantly to the growth of the local wine industry in Nauvoo during these early years. Another noted and successful Icarian vintner who settled in Nauvoo was Emil Baxter. Baxter was born in Saint-Quentin, France (in the Aisne district of northern France). Initially settling in New York in 1846-47, he originally engaged in the dry- goods business. With the financial collapse of 1857, Baxter relocated to Nauvoo, where “he engaged in the culture of the grape and the manufacture of wine.56 He tried many experiments,

55 Blum (1969:58) reiterates much of the history presented earlier by Bliss (1866). Blum (1969:58) also makes reference to a John Tanner, Sr., a native of Switzerland, as planting two acres of Norton vines in circa 1847. The Norton, according to Blum (1969) was used for medicinal wine production. Blum (1969) also references other early vintners, one of which was August Beger, Sr. (came in 1850; see biography). Beger produced wine and brandy, and reportedly constructed one of the first wine cellars in the community. His cellar measured 44’ long by 22’ wide, and held 14 casks—each holding 750 gallons of wine (Blum 1969:58).

56 Other sources note that Baxter originally came to Nauvoo in 1855. After the Icarian Colony broke up in 1857, Emile and his wife Annette returned to New York [?], but soon decided they liked life in Nauvoo much better. Upon their return, Baxter brought grape cuttings he had purchased out East. Purchased eight acres of land, planted his cuttings, and began learning viticulture from his Icarian neighbors who had remained in Nauvoo. Emile was joined in the venture by his three sons, Emile, Jr., Tom, and Cecil—operating as E. Baxter and Sons, and the Golden Hills Vineyards (not to be confused by Worthen’s Golden Bluffs Vineyards).

40 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State and made many improvements in grape culture. He has made such improvements in the work that he has in his possession 18 silver medals awarded by the Illinois State Board of Agriculture at different times for the best wines from different varieties of grapes. He is the most extensive grape and wine producer in the country, and ships his wines to St. Louis and Chicago, being unable to supply the demand. Br. Baxter has premiums and diplomas for his wines from societies elsewhere” (Gregg 1880:960).57

Another early Icarian vintner who settled in Nauvoo was Louis Brault, a “grape-grower” born in Southwestern France in 1827, came to America at the age of 17, settling originally in Concordia, Louisiana. Brault worked as a market gardener, manufactured staves, and eventually came to Hancock County in 1862. Gregg (1880:610) noted that “he owns 80 acres of land, on which is his fine vineyard. He is one of the firm of Brault Brothers, who own in common a 50-acre vineyard, 16 acres of which is controlled by Louis. This vineyard was set out in 1864; there are 900 vines to the acre, in rows eight feet apart, and six feet apart in the row; kept at the height of three feet, only one wire being uses; they are all of the Concord variety. In 1874 this vineyard of 16 acres produced 173 barrels of wine. In this industry the Brault Brothers are second to none in the West.”

Gregg (1880:958-959), in discussing the influence of the Germans in Hancock County, noted that “these people brought their European habits and customs with them, and Nauvoo to-day [1880] is perhaps more of a German town than any in the country. Beer, the national beverage, flows like water; and the latter, though pure and good, has gone out of fashion.” As with the Icarians, many of whom were of northern European descent, the vast majority of the German immigrants in the Midwest endorsed the consumption of wine. Gregg (1880:959) continues by noting that “the business of grape-growing and wine-making is quite extensively followed by these people, and the city and suburbs are thickly dotted with well-planted and neatly kept

57 In 1876, 1877, and 1879, Emile Baxter and Sons were awarded medals for their wine production by the Illinois State Board of Agriculture. In 1880, the family purchased the Wasserzierher Wine Cellar on East Parley Street. This cellar, which was constructed in 1863, was 74’ long and 22’ wide and contained 18 casks manufactured by Louis Milander (also known as “Cooper Louis”). The casks ranged in size from 300 gallons to 1,100 gallons in size. A press room was added onto the cellars in 1882, and the winery established in 1885. In 1885, wine was selling for $0.25 per gallon, with a barrel bringing $12.50. Emile Baxter died in 1895, after which the business was carried on as Baxter Brothers. Emile, Jr. left the business in circa 1902. Tom and Cecil continued the winery business through 1920, continuing grape production after passage of the Volstead Act. In late 1920s, Cecil purchased the interest of his brother Tom, and the business was known thereafter as the Gem City Vineland Company. In 1936, after the abolishment of Prohibition, the Gem City Vineland Company became the first to manufacture bonded wine in Illinois. Cecil died in 1947, with the business being continued by his sons, and for many years was the only winery in Illinois at that time. Cecil’s children continued to operate the business through 1987. Since then the winery has been operated by Cecil’s great grandson as Baxter’s Vineyards [Online: History of Baxter’s Vineyards].

“Emile Baxter (1825-1895) was a Secretary of the Nauvoo Icaria and was among the few Icarians who remained in the town after the colony re-located to Corning, Iowa, in 1860.” The Baxter Papers, consisting of dairies, day books, and account books, are curated at the Baxter-Snyder Center for Icarian Studies, housed at Western Illinois University (Macomb) (http://www.wiu.edu/libraries/archives/icarian_center/).

41 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State vineyards. The business, however, it may be observed, has met with its disappointments, and the golden anticipations of many who entered into it have not been realized.” Not unexpectedly, many of the vintners in Nauvoo, and Hancock County, were of German heritage.58

By 1865, Worthen (1866) indicated that there were approximately 250 vineyards and 23 wine cellars in Nauvoo. Similarly, Blum (1969:58) states that “through the years there were probably sixty wine cellars and Nauvoo was said to be honeycombed by them.”

Warsaw: Although local histories note that “the wine industry was an important one [in Warsaw] in 1865, except for noting that “hundreds of vineyards were planted and many fruit trees’” little has actually been written regarding the city’s viticulture industry (Warsaw 1962:n.p.). Gregg (1880) notes at least one local vintners residing in the Warsaw vicinity in the 1850s. According to Gregg (1880:618), Dorrance McGinnis was a merchant of Scottish and German descent, who relocated to Alexandria, Missouri—immediately across the Mississippi River from Warsaw—from eastern Pennsylvania (near Philadelphia) in 1855. Apparently McGinnis improved a 420 acre farm on the Des Moines Bottom at this location, and “a few years later” he sold the farm and relocated to Warsaw where he “planted a vineyard.” Soon thereafter, he sold it and relocated to Basco. Murray (1879:591), in discussing the history of Adams County, noted that an Adams Abel, a German tailor from Frankfort on the Rhine, immigrated to the United States settling in Quincy in 1848. In circa 1858, he entered into the wine business in Warsaw, “where he lived five years and cultivated a vineyard, then moved to Quincy and opened a wine house” (Murray 1879:591). Similarly, Gregg (1880:611) notes the presence of a Frenchman named C. Cacheux (b. 1836) who immigrated to America in 1853, settling in “New Springfield, Illinois.” Sometime shortly thereafter, Cacheux relocated to Cincinnati where he learned the cooper’s trade, and worked in that profession in Cincinnati through 1868, when he relocated to Hancock County. Cacheux initially settled in Warsaw, but soon also relocated to Basco where he “owns a beautiful farm of 200 acres, where he exhibits much pride in the home surroundings. He has a small vineyard of 600 plants.”

In the Warsaw vicinity, though, one vintner family (consisting of father and eldest son) stands out from the crowd—Amos H. and George B. Worthen.59 As noted below, Amos Worthen planted his vineyard in 1863, constructed a wine house in circa 1864-65, and began producing wine at his Golden Bluff Winery and Vineyard within a short time thereafter. He was on the

58 Gregg (1880:961-2) notes the following vintners in Nauvoo: 1) John U. Bechtold [one-time mayor of Nauvoo, a native of Switzerland. Born in 1837 and immigrated to the United States in 1855 settling in Nauvoo. Although initially working as a blacksmith, after returning from the Civil War, he “has been directing his attention to the culture of the vine. The year 1879 he manufactured 1,300 gallons of wine.”]; 2) Charles G. Gurmeister [Born in Germany in 1840, arrived in United States in 1848, first settling in St. Louis. Came to Nauvoo in 1879 and followed “wine-making.”; 3) Ernest Heck [Born in Germany in 1817, immigrated to St. Louis in 1845, farm near Herman. Came to Hancock County in 1868. “He is a sugar refiner and farmer by occupation; and was also engaged in the culture of grapes, and the manufacture of wine to some extent, while in Missouri.”].

59 Amos H. Worthen was the Illinois State Geologist that wrote extensively on the Geology of Illinois at mid- century, and was mentioned earlier in this nomination form.

42 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State front end of the large expansion in vineyards experienced in the Warsaw vicinity during the middle to late 1860s. In early 1866, the Illinois State Agricultural Society presented four awards under the category of “wine”—with three of them being awarded to Amos H. and George B. Worthen. These awards were for best five bottles of Catawba, best five bottles of Delaware, and best five bottles of wine from any one variety of grapes.60 According to the Society, “the samples presented by the Messrs. Worthen were decided to be very superior. At the request of the board we shall publish their statement of the process of manufacture as soon as possible” (Prairie Farmer, 13 January 1866). In mid-February, the Prairie Farmer made good on their promise, and published “Wine Making at Warsaw, Ills.” (G. Worthen 1866a).61

The vineyard of A. H. and Geo. B. Worthen, is located on the Mississippi bluffs, two miles below the city of Warsaw, in Hancock county, Illinois. The land is quite broken, and was originally covered with a heavy growth of timber, consisting mainly of White and Black Oak, Shell-bark and Pignut Hickory with an undergrowth of Red-bud, Dogwood, Sassafras and Hazel. The ground on which the vines were planted had been in cultivation about twelve years, the crops taken from it being mainly Indian corn, without the application of manure, either before or since the vines were planted…

The soil is an ash colored or yellowish brown loam, with a yellow clay subsoil. The soil was prepared for planting the vines in the following manner: It was broken up in the fall with two common two-horse plows, running one before the other in the same furrow, and these were followed by a common subsoil or mole plow drawn by two yoke of oxen, breaking and pulverizing the ground to the depth of from sixteen to twenty inches. The vines were planted in the spring of 1863, and were one year old roots at the time of planting. The first year the same ground was planted in corn; one row of corn between every two rows of vines; the vines were planted in rows seven feet apart, and the plants ten feet apart in the rows. The first year the ground was cultivated with the plow as a corn crop is usually cultivated; the vines receiving no other attention, except that they were hoed [sic] out three times during the summer to free them from weeds…

The wine cellar or vault, is built in the side of a hill, and is sixty feet long and eighteen feet wide in the clear, and eleven and a half feet high in the center of the arch; the walls are of limestone two feet thick and arched over with the same material. Side walls carried up to the top of the arch, and the space between filled

60 The award for Illinois wines that the Worthen family (father and son) did not take home that year [1865] was for “Sweetened wine from native grapes for medicinal purposes,” which was awarded to Mrs. Dr. Morrison of Jacksonville. Similarly, the Illinois State Horticultural Society presented awards for six categories of Illinois wine in January 1869—which probably represents the results of the 1868 (?) harvest. At that time, the Society awarded all six premiums to Amos and George Worthen, of Warsaw (TISHS 1870).

61 This same article was reprinted in the Transactions of the Illinois State Horticultural Society for 1865 (G. Worthen 1866b). The article was written in December 1865 by Mr. Worthen.

43 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

with earth. The cellar has a limestone floor, plastered with cement, making it rat- proof and water-proof. A good well of water is in the cellar, and a large cistern outside, eight feet in diameter and fourteen feet deep. The wine house which covers the cellar is a one story frame building 22 by 74 feet. During the cold weather of the present winter the mercury in the cellar has never been below 45o Farh., though in the open air outside it stood at 12o below zero.62

The number of bearing vines this year was about two thousand Catawbas, from which about seven hundred gallons of wine were made, the birds taking nearly one half the fruit. They were not affected by the rot. The number of Delaware grapes in bearing was only about two hundred, from which about forty gallons of wine were made. The birds proved more destructive to the Delawares than to the Catawbas…

By the later 1860s, the Worthen’s were marketing their wine in Quincy, as illustrated by this advertisement which ran in the Quincy Daily Whig:

Pure Catawba Wine, vintage of 1865, from the celebrated Golden Bluff Vineyard, A. H. & G. B. Worthen, proprietors, Warsaw, Ill., can be found by the bottle or case at the drug store of G. W. Coster, No. 48 Fourth street, who is the sole agent for the city of Quincy (Quincy Daily Whig 5 May 1868).

N. W. Bliss furnished detailed statistics of vineyards and wine production in Hancock County for the year 1865 (see Tables 2-4; Bliss 1866). This is, in essence, was the first county wide survey of any significance in regard to the county’s wine industry. By far, the Nauvoo region far surpassed the surrounding regions of the county with regard to both the number of vines in production (425,000) and the gallons of wine produced (35,000). In that year, the Nauvoo region had approximately 60% of the county’s vines and produced nearly 75% of the wine in the county. Bliss enumerated 239 commercial vineyards within the Nauvoo region. The number of vines present ranged from only a couple hundred to a high of 12,900 vines per vineyard. Many of the vineyards did not produce wine, with only 20% of the vineyards indicating production of the fermented product. Those that indicated wine production, ranged from a low of only 5 gallons to a high of 3,000 gallons of wine produced. There was no correlation between the number of vines in production, and the amount of wine produced. For example, Andrew Bortin produced only 700 gallons of wine from his 12,900 vines, whereas, Jonathan Bauer, Sr. produced 3,000 gallons of wine from only 4,850 vines. The average vineyard had approximately 1,748 vines. The average volume of wine produced from the wine-producing vineyards was 521 gallons—a major increase over the production levels indicated in the 1860 Agricultural Census.

In Bliss’ 1865 census, the Warsaw region came in second with 140,000 vines (20% of the county’s vines) and 6,500 gallons of wine produced (slightly less than 14% of the wine

62 This is presumed to be the same wine cellar that we recorded at the Worthen Winery Site (see attached figures and photographs).

44 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State commercially produced in the county). Bliss tabulated 73 individual vineyards in production in the Warsaw region. These 73 vineyards had collectively 135,000 vines in production (an average of 1,849 vines per vineyard—5.7% higher than vineyards in the Nauvoo region), and had produced 6,200 gallons of wine that year. Of the vineyards in the Warsaw region, 43 had produced wine that year—representing 59.9% of the vineyards, which was a considerably higher percentage of vineyards producing wine in Warsaw than in Nauvoo. In contrast to the Nauvoo region, where the wine-producing vineyards averaged over 520 gallons of wine per vineyard, the Warsaw region’s wine-producing vineyards produced only 144 gallons per vineyard on average. As noted by Bliss, this low production of wine was due to the young character of the vineyards compared to those in Nauvoo. One of the larger vineyards with regard to the number of vines planted was C. Albers’ vineyard with over 9,600 vines. Albers produced no wine from his vineyard.63 The largest producer of wine in the Warsaw region that year was P. Herberts vineyard, which produced 875 gallons of the fermented beverage. Amos and George Worthen’s vineyard (the Golden Bluffs Vineyard) had 6,600 vines, and produced 680 gallons of wine— representing the second largest wine producer in the Warsaw region for that year. Together, the two vineyards produce approximately 24% of the wine produced in the Warsaw region in 1865 (Bliss 1866). Although Gottlieb Hunziker was not listed by Bliss among these viticulturists, his co-owner of the property—William Hoffman—was listed as both having vines and producing wine. Hoffman—and presumably Hunziker—were listed as having 7,300 vines, and having produced 100 gallons of wine that year.

In February 1866, Bliss reported to the State Horticultural Society the formation of the local Warsaw Horticultural Society, and his correspondence immediately turned to his interest in statistics relating to the county’s viticulture. Bliss stated that “In January, 1863, Warsaw had but 10,000 vines, all told; now [early 1866] she has 140,000, a goodly increase in three seasons.”64 In late March of that year, the State Society met in Warsaw and was treated to local apples, and Catawba wine made by both Mr. Bauder and George Worthen, and a Concord wine also made by Mr. Worthen. In that same publication, Emile Baxter presented his paper entitled “Nauvoo Wine District—Hancock County” (Baxter 1868:225-226; Bliss 1868). In that report, Baxter states “there were in the month of May, 1866, two hundred and thirty nine vineyards in the district; two hundred of the proprietors of which, from their names, appear to be Germans. In addition to the vines growing in the district of Nauvoo, there are also, growing in the adjoining townships of Sonora and Appanoose, 200,000 vines, making a total of 559,872 vines of several of the different varieties of grape.”

That section of country extending along the east bank of the Mississippi river, from Nauvoo, running south, and in which Hancock and Adams counties, are included, appears from the peculiar character of the soil, and the comparative mildness of the climate, to be well adapted to the successful growth of the vine.

63 Albers vineyard was located southwest of, and immediately adjacent to, Gottlieb Hunziker’s farm. The 1939 aerial photograph of the township indicates the presence of an old road that connected the Hunziker and Albers farmsteads.

64 Worthen (1866) indicates that he and his son had planted their vineyards in 1863.

45 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

For wine making and market purposes, and from similar causes, the ease with which vegetables and fruits are grown, and the facility of transportation to the Chicago and other northern and profitable markets, bids fair to make these counties, at no distant day, the largest producers of wine and market fruits and vegetables of any of the counties of the State, bordering on the river north of St. Louis. New vineyards are constantly prepared and planted, and large quantities of Sweet Potatoes, Cucumbers, Tomatoes, Potatoes, etc., are annually shipped, and found remunerative to the agriculturists (Baxter 1868:225).

In 1867, the Illinois State Horticultural Society’s Committee on Orchards and Vineyards for Central Illinois discussed the successes and failures of local grape production (Hammond 1867:122-124). At that time, in discussing the viticulture of west-central Illinois, he noted that:

The grape, perhaps, succeeds better in the central district than in any other portion of the State, and on the high, bold bluffs of the Illinois and Mississippi rivers they are peculiarly at home. In Hancock County there is more capital invested in this enterprise than in any other county in the State. N. W. Bliss, the very efficient Secretary of the Warsaw Horticultural Society, has carefully collected the vineyard statistics in this county, and to him I am indebted for the following:

There are in the county about two hundred and thirty vineyards, containing from one to twenty acres each, and about thirty arched wine cellars, while many others are rendered cool by cheaper appliances. The amount of capital invested in the business cannot be less than a million and a quarter of dollars.

Much of the discussion during these initial years of grape production in Illinois revolved around the appropriate grape to be cultivating, and whether or not it could adapt to the local environmental conditions. Most of the early grapes planted were of the Catawba variety.

A large per cent of the vines now growing are Catawbas; in some vineyards they yield very gratifying results, while in others they often fail. In the vineyard of Mr. Worthen, the loss by rot has been very small, and his vines, heavily loaded with the purple clusters, are beautiful to behold. In the vineyard of Mr. Marlow not a Catawba has ripened. Mr. Worthen's vineyard is situated on the bluff, within a mile of the river; his vines are planted ten feet apart, and a long system of pruning is practiced. Mr. Marlow's vineyard is ten miles from the river, on rich prairie soil, and the vines closely planted and pruned. On the whole, the Catawba is losing ground, and some of our grape-growers are considering the propriety of re- planting with other varieties. A large proportion of the vines planted the two past seasons have been Concords. This noble grape is rapidly growing in favor, and whatever may be its shortcomings in other localities, it has been demonstrated that here it will make a good wine. What few Delaware vines escaped the excessive cold of February, '66, have this year produced abundantly, but have, as usual, dropped their leaves prematurely. It is not considered profitable. The

46 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

Clinton is growing in favor with our vine-growers. Mr. Marlow, who has seven acres, says if he was to be limited to one grape, it would be this. The Iona is worthless for vineyard culture, being subject to all the diseases of the Catawba, and much more liable to winter-kill. In February, '66, it was (although covered with earth) killed outright in some vineyards where the Catawba, Delaware and Isabella were but slightly injured; in others, only the tops were killed. It has thus far been more profitable for the nurserymen than the grape-growers (Hammond 1867: 123). 65

In 1867, Hancock County represented the United States viticulture industry at the Universal Exposition of 1867 held at Paris, France that year. The only Illinois wines mentioned in the formal catalog were those briefly mentioned from Hancock County. Apparently the Hancock wines were not well received, even though “probably as good as any of their class in this State or elsewhere, were found, on examination by the juries, to have undergone a change which seriously affected their value…” (Reynolds 1868:109).66

In the spring of 1870, the U.S. Census Bureau again undertook an agricultural survey. Although a tabulation of farm products for the residents of the City of Warsaw is present, it is unfortunate that the schedules for Nauvoo and Wilcox and Townships are not present (on Ancestry.com). Only one individual—Charles Warner—was listed within Warsaw as having produced wine during the year ending late summer 1870. Warner—a neighbor to Gottlieb Hunziker living on the edge of town—had produced 300 gallons of wine on a 20-acre farm valued at $6,000. 67

In the late summer of 1870, the Warsaw Horticultural Society met at the Worthen’s Golden Bluff Winery. At that time, “the Messrs. Worthen have twenty-three acres in grapes” (and included the vineyards of Thomas A. Worthen, and Amos H. Worthen, Jr.). At that meeting, the Worthens presented “from their respective vineyards there were upon the table twenty-nine varieties” of grapes—with the Delaware being chosen as the best” (ISHS 1871:319). In describing the vineyards of Warsaw, A. C. Hammond wrote

Our grape crop was the largest and best ever grown in the county. The Catawba, after several years bad behavior, is again taking the lead. It has been perfectly free from disease, held its leaves well, and ripened it enormous crop of fruit evenly. Mr. George B. Worthen, of Golden Bluff Vineyard, gathered from his Catawba vines about three and a half tons per acre, his Norton's Virginia producing three tons, and Concord two and a half. This may be considered a fair

65 This source has additional information for other regions of the state, of particular interest is the wineries of southern Illinois. The source notes the shift from Catawba to Concord grapes in the state at that time. 66 Reynolds (1868) also made reference to the large presentation made by the “Longworth Wine Company” at the exposition, which also did not fare well. Reynolds (1868:109) attributed some of the French dislike for American wines due to the American preference for higher alcohol content than what the French preferred.

67 Future research needs to determine if these are available at the Illinois State Archives. Other townships—such as Sonora and Appanoose—have listings.

47 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

representation of the productiveness of these varieties. The must of all varieties was found to be remarkably heavy, and a wine of superior quality must be the result. We are confident that the vintage of 1870, from the hundred vineyards that crown the river bluffs from Nauvoo to Warsaw, will be of such a character as will place Hancock County in the front rank, as a wine growing locality. Vast quantities of grapes have been shipped to distant markets, principally Chicago and St. Louis, but the middle men have generally received the lion's share of the profits. Our grape growers are, however, greatly encouraged, and are satisfied that the business will be a success. The general outlook may also be said to be encouraging, as all our fruits have been reasonably remunerative, and our trees and vines are in good condition for next year's crop [italics added].68

By the 1870s, grape shipping became prolific with table grapes being shipped up and down the river, as well as throughout the region by rail (Blum 1969:59). It is unclear as to how significant the Economic Panic of 1873 was on the viticulture industry of Hancock County. During these years of the 1870s, the number of references to the local industry in the various agricultural and horticultural journals seems to decline dramatically.

By the 1880s, the local viticulture industry in Warsaw, and Hancock County, was looking pretty good—with vintners located in, and around, both Warsaw and Nauvoo, as well as in surrounding communities such as Basco. In that year, the U.S. Census Bureau again conducted an agricultural census—the last one relevant to our story. Unlike the 1870 census, which seems to have misplaced the schedules for both Nauvoo and Wilcox Townships, the 1880 census is intact and contains a wealth of information on what was a greatly expanded viticulture industry in Hancock County. No less than 32 vintners (or firms) were enumerated for Warsaw alone, with a minimum of 15 additional entries for adjacent Wilcox Township.69

Unlike earlier schedules, the 1880 census has a listing for the number of pounds of grapes sold in 1879. Ten of the 32 Warsaw producers sold grapes, and generally produced a small volume of wine as well. One producer, though, stood out completely from the others, with regard to this category. Claus Albers had 5-acres of vines and sold 8,000 pounds of grapes in 1879. His farm was valued at $3,000. Located immediately adjacent to, and connected by road with the Hunziker farm and Wine House, it seems likely that Gottlieb Hunziker may have been one of the purchasers of these grapes. The other Warsaw producers were represented by relatively small acreage and low wine production. One such vintner listed was John Warner who had 1/8th acre in production, and produced only 50 gallons of wine on his farm which was valued at $600.

68 In October 1870, John Hay wrote … “I found Warsaw with a broad grin on its face at the lovely grape crop. My father made 1200 gallons of good wine, and even my shy little vineyard made it debut with 240. I wish you could have been here and eaten grapes with me during the past week. They are of a most exquisite flavor and sweeter than I have ever seen them anywhere in the world. Especially the much abused Catawba, which people were thinking of plowing up, has nobly asserted itself and produced a superb vintage” (Thaeer 1915:332-333).

69 The 1880 Agricultural Census for Nauvoo, and its surrounding Townships, has not been tabulated and/or incorporated into this research [and warrants inclusion in this discussion].

48 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

Warner’s vineyard was probably located immediately to the west of Alber’s property. On the other end of the scale was the vineyard of “Brault and Brother.”70 In the 1880 agriculture schedule, they claim 24 acres of vines, and the production of 3,500 gallons of wine on a farm valued at $4,000. The next largest producer of wine in 1880, based on the 1880 agriculture schedule, was Gottlieb Hunziker—the owner/operator of the Hunziker Winery. The 1880 agricultural schedule indicates that Hunziker had 12 acres of vines and produced 2,500 gallons of wine on a farm valued at $6,000.71 These were the top two largest vineyards by acreage in Warsaw. The next largest vineyard, by acreage, was that of Claus Albers, noted above as predominately producing grapes for sale. The vast majority of the vineyards in Warsaw were 2 acres or less in size. [Prepare summary table?]

The rural Wilcox Township vineyards were comparable to those in Warsaw, with the majority of them being 2 acres or less in size. Unlike those vineyards in Warsaw, the majority of the Wilcox Township vineyards recorded sales of grapes. Thomas Worthen, for example, had a two-acre vineyard, sold 1,670 (?) pounds of grapes, and produced no wine. Three vineyards stood out in Wilcox Township for their size. Both Leonard Fitz and James Johnson were noted as having vineyards of 5-acres in size. Although their vineyards were relatively large, they sold minimal grapes (300 and 500 pounds, respectively) and produced limited wine (40 gallons and 10 gallons respectively)—suggesting maybe that their vineyards were young in age. By far, the largest vineyard in rural Wilcox Township was that listed as being owned by George B. Worthen. In 1879, presumably the Golden Bluffs Vineyard had 12 acres in vines. Worthen apparently sold no grapes, but produced 7,500 gallons of wine on a farm valued at $4,500.72

An assessment of the 1880 agricultural census would suggest that the industry was in good shape in Warsaw, as well as Hancock County in general, at that time. One local historian noted that, “In 1887 many thousands of grape plants had been set out, the soil and climate being especially adapted to grape culture, and every available piece of land was planted in grapevines. It was predicted that Nauvoo would become the grape-growing center of America. Even the farmers

70 Louis Brault was born in southwestern France in 1827. He came to America at 17 years of age, initially settling in New Orleans, then Arkansas, until relocating to his Hancock County (Warsaw?) in 1862 (Gregg 1880:610-11). Gregg (1880:611) notes that “He owns 80 acres of land, on which is his fine vineyard. He is one of the firm of Brault Brothers, who own in common a 50-acre vineyard, 16 acres of which is controlled by Louis. This vineyard was set out in 1864; there are 900 vines to the acre, in rows eight feet apart, and six feet apart in the row; kept at the height of three feet, only one wire being used; they are all of the Concord variety. In 1874 this vineyard of 16 acres produced 173 barrels of wine. In this industry the Brault Brothers are second to none in the West.” [Future research needs to determine where his vineyard and wine house were located.]

71 Of the “vintners” listed in the 1880 agricultural census, only two had farm values larger than Hunziker’s. One was Louis Stracke (one acre vineyard; farm valued at $10,000; sold only 400 pounds of grapes), and the other was Conrad Negel (2-acre vineyard, produced 1,000 gallons of wine; farm valued at $8,000). Clearly the value of the Stracke farm was not in the vineyard or winery improvements, but in other improvements. Negel may have had a commercial wine house on his property contributing to the high price of this farm.

72 Although this listing was in George B. Worthen’s name, it probably refers to the Golden Bluff Winery which was owned by the father-son team of Amos H. and George B. Worthen. By this date [1880], Amos was busy being the Illinois State Geologist, and probably relegated the care of the vineyard to his son, George.

49 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State became interested and set out a few acres in vineyard. Most every home had either a grape arbor or a few vines” (Blum 1969:58). Alongside the viticulture industry, the region experienced growth in horticulture as well, with other fruit production (such as orchards and strawberries) advancing hand-in-hand with the viticulture industry.

But the industry was not as rosy as it seemed, and things were soon to change. Vineyards, which were a long term investment, were susceptible to a variety of threats. In May 1885, the Wasserzieher vineyard in Nauvoo was the brunt of malicious activities resulting in the destruction of 1,200 grape vines—an act that had significant impact on the vintner. But it was the weather and related plant diseases that were of the most significant threat to the industry. Since the beginning of the industry in Hancock County (as well as the nation as a whole), bad growing seasons—whether due to weather, rot, or a combination of the two—had always been a concern to the grower. In the middle 1880s, several back-to-back bad growing seasons devastated the local vineyards. In 1888, George Worthen submitted his “Report of Committee on Grapes” to the Illinois State Horticultural Society, which was reprinted in the Annual Report of the Ohio State Horticultural Society (Worthen 1889b). In this report, in which he reported on the dire situation of the vineyards in Warsaw, he wrote

I have but little to report on grapes, and that little, not very encouraging. In this locality, the crop in all the large vineyards has been a failure on account of the rot. There was never a finer prospect for a crop than last spring, but by the first of July, nearly everything that was not rot proof, was gone.

The largest vineyard in the county is owned by Broult Bros., [sic] of Warsaw, who have thirty acres of Concords. Their crop was one-half barrel of wine. I have ten acres of Concords, and I did not pick any of them. There are a few Catawba vines in the county, but they rotted as badly as the Concords. As a general thing, the grapes in the city lots where there were but a few vines, and those not cultivated, did not rot (G. Worthen 1889a:51).

That same year [1889], Amos Worthen, Jr. wrote “Report of Grapes,” which was published in the Transactions of the Illinois State Horticultural Society (A. Worthen, Jr. 1890:95-99). This particular report was much more extensive, and also outlined the dire conditions of the local grape industry. The younger Amos, although having labored in the vineyards of Warsaw for “over twenty years” reported that he was uncomfortable talking about the subject, as “when I think of the amount of information that has been poured into me during that time, how little I know”—potentially in reference to the futile attempts at saving their orchards from the rot.73 He continues by writing

For the past eight or ten years, grape growing has been a very precarious means of making a living, and never again will we experience a ‘grape boom’ like that of

73 Amos, Jr. noted that he “first became interested in grape growing ‘way back in the forties’” (A. Worthen, Jr. 189b:96).

50 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

’65 and ’66, when lawyers, doctors and merchants planted vineyards, expecting as soon as they came into bearing to retire from business, and pass the remainder of their days spending their income in ‘having fun.’ Then every grape grower was a millionaire—‘in his own mind.’74

About this time the Concord was introduced. The praises of the Iona and Isabella were being sung from one end of the land to the other, and parties pushing these varieties, claimed that the Concord was ‘unfit to eat’ and would not make wine when ripe. These are no longer heard of, while the Concord has been the most popular of all. It has been such a favorite, that, no doubt, five times the amount of money has been sunk in planting Concords, than in any other variety…

The past season has been one of the most disastrous to the grower, and one of the most favorable to the development of grape rot within my experience. The rot has been so universal that even the newspapers were full of it, and grapes, except where protected by paper sacks, or treated with rot preventatives, were an entire failure.75 …the loss at the Golden Bluff Vineyard was from fifty to sixty thousand pounds of grapes, the Concord showing less resistance to it than any of some thirty varieties.

In my own vineyard, I succeed in saving about 8,000 pounds of Concords, 3,500 pounds of Norton’s Virginia, 1,000 pounds of Herman, and some 9,000 pounds of fruit on many other varieties…

While I have lost much of my affection for my first love, it still clings to me and squeezes me tighter each succeeding year and it is a question whether I have the vineyard or it has me. I realize, when too late, that the greatest mistake of my life was, that when I was ‘discharged’ from the army I didn’t ‘go off’ in some other direction…”76 (A. Worthen, Jr. 1890:95-99).

For Illinois, and particularly Warsaw, the viticulture industry lost a major proponent of the industry in early 1888, with the death of Amos Worthen, Sr. His death may have contributed to

74 Goodman (1898:389) in discussing vineyards, notes that “Grape growing has unfortunately been injured by booms. After these subside the crop brings a profit and the boomers and their victims are weeded out by their indifference to the vine culture.”

75 He discusses his use of “the Bordeaux Mixture” for treatment of the rot, and he has hope for research being conducted by the Department of Agriculture with the product. It was not until the middle 1890s, that the origins and treatment of the fungus that causes “grape rot” became understood and somewhat standardized. Blum (1969:58) states that it was “after 1892, black rot, the dreaded grape disease, was brought under control through spaying.”

76 Amos, Jr. enlisted in the Army in August 1861 as a member of the Seventh Missouri Cavalry. He served through late November 1864. After returning to Warsaw, he worked for one year in the office of the county tax collector (Hobart 1907:392).

51 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

Amos, Jr.’s melancholy regarding the industry. For the Worthen family, it was the end of their dreams of being vintners and of promoting the Warsaw vicinity as a wine producing district. Over the next decade, many of the local vintners abandoned their vineyards—often pulling up their vines and reverting to more traditional row crop agricultural practices, pasture land, or orchards (apple as well as peach and pear). Amos, Jr. followed step, remaining at the farm until 1894, at which time he relocated to Warsaw and followed other avenues of business.77 It was at about this same time, in 1893, that Gottlieb Hunzicker died, and his winery was broken up and equipment sold off by his widow. In 1895, Paul Ritter advertised for a public sale of wine, casks, and a wine press in Nauvoo, only to cancel the sale as there was no demand for these items (Blum 1969:59). George B. Worthen, owner of the Golden Bluff Vineyard and Winery with his father Amos, remained at the farm through circa 1900, at which time he apparently retired with his wife to her parent’s old homestead in Warsaw.78

It seems few of the local wineries in Warsaw and surrounding Hancock County survived through the later 1910s, and those few that did were hit hard by the passage of the Volstead Act in 1919, and the national prohibition against alcohol that followed. In January 1919, the last of the states needed for ratification of the 18th Amendment to the U.S. Constitution was passed. Subsequently the National Prohibition Act, also informally known as the Volstead Act, was passed in an effort to carry out the provisions of the new prohibition on alcohol in the United States. Although the Volstead Act hit the wine industry hard, it was not the end of grape production in the region. Horticultural endeavors, including grape production continued in the region, but not with the vigor it had attained earlier. In early 1913, the Nauvoo Fruit Growers and Shipping Association had been organized, with an initial 150 members, and a warehouse constructed near the ferry landing in Nauvoo. Grape production in the region nonetheless plummeted. By 1925, the acreage devoted to grape production in the Nauvoo vicinity was estimated at only 800 to 1,000 acres (Blum 1969:58).79 In 1927, in an effort to revitalize the industry, the City of Nauvoo held its first grape festival, with the production of the “Wedding of the Wine and Cheese”—a theatrical production that has persisted through the present day.

77 In 1867, the young Amos Worthen had purchased his 40-acre farm adjacent to his father’s land “where he engaged in raising grapes and fruit, his attention being devoted to horticultural pursuits until 1894, when he again took up his abode in Warsaw and clerked for his brother, J. B. Worthen until 1904. In that year he purchased the store of Homer Schaefer and is now [1907] conducting a grocery house, carrying a complete line of staple and fancy groceries and enjoying a good patronage” (Hobart 1907:392).

78 Hobart (1907:394) states that, in circa 1864, George “turned his attention to the cultivation of a vineyard and fruit farm in Wilcox township, where he resided for thirty-seven years, being a very successful in that line of business. In 1901 he again took up his abode in Warsaw and is now living at the corner of Eighth and Clark streets, his activity and enterprise in former years having brought him a competence that now enables him to live retired.”

79 Blum (1969:58) estimated that in circa 1969 the acreage dedicated to grape production in the Nauvoo vicinity had dropped to one-fifth of this 1925 figure.

52 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

As a footnote to the history of the early wine industry in Illinois, with the repeal of the Volstead Act and Prohibition, the Emile Baxter Winery located in Nauvoo became the first bonded winery to be established in Illinois. For many years, it was the only winery in the State of Illinois.

George Hunziker and his Warsaw Winery

The SW1/4, Section 2 (Township 4 North, Range 9 West)—and the land upon which the Hunziker Winery was to be constructed—was purchased from the United States government by David Barber on 3 July 1835 for the sum of $200 (Illinois Public Domain Land Tract Sales, Illinois State Archive). Barber was a resident of Harmar, Washington County, Ohio at the time.80 In early 1858, David Barber appears to have sold most of his Hancock County landholdings to his brother, Austin Barber, for the sum of $13,520 (Hancock County Deed Book [HCDB] 47:651).81 Austin was a resident of nearby Pike County, Illinois at the time. The 1859 Map of Hancock County, Illinois (Holmes and Arnold 1859) depicts the unimproved SW1/4, Section 2 (and other lands in the vicinity of Warsaw) as being owned by David Barber.

During the 1850s and early 1860s, the SW1/4, Section 2 probably remained relatively unimproved, as it was a heavily dissected and timbered tract adjacent to the Mississippi River bluff edge. On 14 November 1864, Austin Barber sold Lots 12 and 13, a subdivision of the SW1/4, Section 2, to William Hoffman and Gottlieb Hunziker—both of whom listed their residences as Hancock County—for the sum of $1,300.82 The total acreage for these two parcels was slightly over 21 acres (HCDB 66:329). It is assumed that the property was not yet improved. In early January 1868, Gottlieb Hunziker apparently mortgaged his half interest in this property for the sum of $2,500. This loan was financed by C. F. Matheny of St. Louis. Hunziker apparently satisfied the loan, and was released from the mortgage in early May of that same year (HCDB 87:7, 84:38). It seems likely that this loan of $2,500 may have financed the construction of the winery at that time.83

80 David Barber, the son of Levi Barber, was born on 14 August 1804. Barber was an attorney who began practicing law in Harmar, Washington County, Ohio in circa 1829. Barber moved to the Warsaw vicinity in circa 1876 where he “extensively engaged in agricultural pursuits.” He died on 9 August 1886 in Warsaw, Hancock County, Illinois. During the early to middle 1830s (circa 1833-1838), Barber purchased over 94 tracts of land in counties associated with the Illinois Military Tract (Adams, Hancock, Henderson, Knox, McDonough, Pike, Stark, and Warren). It would appear that Mr. Barber was an early land speculator who had been purchasing Illinois Military land bounties from veterans who had served in War of 1812 (Williams and Brother 1881:122).

81 Austin Barber, brother of David, settled in Pittsfield at an early date and was a partner in the mercantile firm of Greene and Barber (Chapman 1880:658).

82 On 24 February 1846, much of Section 3 (and presumably some of Section 2) was subdivided into a series of small, approximate 10-acre parcels of land, and a series of new streets laid out, incorporating this land into the City of Warsaw (Plat Book 1: Page 73). Lots 12 and 13 totaled approximately 21.27 acres, and included roads dedicated to public travel.

83 Gottlieb Hunziker was born on 27 February 1825. He married Lyette Agne on 18 June 1854 in Lee County, Iowa (Iowa Select Marriages Index, 1805-2002). He died on 5 November 1893, and was buried in Oakland Cemetery,

53 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

Neither William Hoffman or Gottlieb Hunziker were identified within the 1860 U.S. Census of Population for Hancock County, Illinois. Hunziker and his family were enumerated, though, within the 1860 U.S. Federal Census as a resident of nearby Ward 1 in Keokuk, Lee County, Iowa. At that time, he was listed as a 35-year old, Swiss-born butcher living with his wife Elizabeth (a 28 years old, Bavarian-born woman) and their five young children.84 The oldest child, Louisa was an eight-year old child that had been born in Missouri. The next oldest child was the 5-year old Caroline who had been born in Iowa. The age and birthplaces of these children would suggest that the Hunziker family moved from Missouri to Iowa (potentially Keokuk) sometime between 1852 and 1855. The other three children (three-year old Mary, two- year old Bartola, and two-month old Mina) had all been born in Iowa. Gottlieb’s real property was estimated at $5,000 and his personal property at $2,000. In keeping with the family’s rather high-status real and personal property values, living with the family at that time were 35-year old Maria Prince (a Bavarian-born servant) and 22-year old Frank Mitchell (a French-born laborer) (USBC 1850:59). As expected, Gottlieb Hunziker was not enumerated in the 1860 U.S. Census of Agriculture.

Apparently sometime between 1860 and 1862, Gottlieb must have abandoned the profession of butcher as he was enumerated in both the 1862 and 1863 Internal Revenue Tax Assessment Lists, in which he was listed as having a taxable business interest in nearby Keokuk, Lee County, Iowa that was not that of a “butcher.” In September 1862, Hunziker was levied a tax of $15, for operating a “Hotel, 6th Class” in Keokuk. The following year, in May 1863, he was assessed a $30 tax for operating a “Hotel, 6th Class” ($10.00), and selling “Retail Liquors” ($20.00) (U.S. IRS Tax Assessment Lists, 1862-1918—Ancestry.com).

In 1865, N. W. Bliss had undertaken his survey of vineyards and vintners in Warsaw (and the surrounding Hancock County). Although Gottlieb Hunziker was not listed among these viticulturists by Bliss, his co-owner of the property—William Hoffman—was listed as having

Keokuk, Iowa. He was 68 years of age at his death. His wife Lizetta was born on 28 March 1830, and she died of heart failure in Chicago, Cook County, on 12 November 1910. Mrs. Lizette’s obituary, which was published in the Daily Gate City, Keokuk, Iowa (13 November 1910, page 8), states that they couple were married in 1856 (not 1854), and that the young Lyette had immigrated to Keokuk, to join her father, from Mulbach, Bavaria in 1853 when 23 years old. In describing her husband, the obituary states that Gottlieb Hunziker “was at one time proprietor of an extensive vineyard properties [sic] near Warsaw and the family one of the most prominent and highly respected of this section.” At the time of her death in 1910, Mrs. Hunziker had four daughters living in Chicago: Mrs. Clifford Miller, Mrs. Herman Gieson, Mrs. Bertha Landis, and Mrs. Minnie Tausch.

84 Currently little is known regarding the Gottlieb Hunziker family. Apparently born in 1825 in Switzerland, it is unclear when he immigrated to the United States. The History of Abraham Hunsaker and his Family (Haws and Hunsaker 2001) indicates that a man named Abraham Hunsaker was living in Nauvoo during the Mormon period, and relocated to Utah during the Mormon exodus. During his early life, Abraham lived in Union County, Illinois with his family, eventually moving to Adams County. Currently there is no known family connection between Abraham Hunsaker and Gottlieb Hunziker. This line of the Hunsaker family immigrated to the United States, from the Aarau region of Switzerland, during the early years of the eighteenth century. The Hunsacker/Hunziker family traces its heritage back over 1,200 years to this region (cf. Die Hunziker von Aarau referenced in Haws and Hunsaker 2001:14).

54 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

7,300 vines, and having produced 100 gallons of wine that year, strongly suggesting that the Hunziker Wine House was in the initial stages of production by that date (Bliss 1866).

The 1870 U.S. Census of Population indicates that William Hoffman was a 49-year old German- born (Württemberg) baker living within the central business district of Warsaw. At that time, besides his wife (Louisa), he was living with his five children and two domestic servants. His children were between the ages of 3 and 16—all of which were Illinois born. Mr. Hoffman had a real estate evaluation of $8,000 and a personal estate evaluation of $500 at the time of the census. Similarly, the 1870 U.S. Census of Population enumerated the Gottlieb Hunziker family as being residents of nearby Keokuk, Lee County, Iowa. Hunziker was a 45-year old, Swiss born saloon keeper living with his Bavarian-born wife (Losetta), and their 5 children. The oldest child was their 18-year old daughter (Lonza) who had been born in Missouri. Their other four children, aged 9 to 14, were all born in Iowa.85 In 1870, Gottlieb Hunziker had a real estate evaluation of $12,000 and a personal estate valued at $1,800. Unfortunately, the 1870 U.S. Agricultural Census schedules for Wilcox Township have not been located, and little information is available for the Warsaw area for this date.

Apparently, by 1870, Gottlieb Hunziker was receiving recognition for both his grape and wine production. In 1870, the Iowa State Fair was held in Keokuk on the grounds of the Union Agricultural and Stock Association. The annual report of the fair (Report of the Secretary of the Iowa State Agricultural Society for the year 1870) documented Hunziker’s success with both grape and wine production by this date. In the “Class No. 47, Grapes” there were 62 entries, and Gottlieb Hunziker was awarded “Best Exhibition Catawbas” and a cash price of five dollars (Shaffer 1870:144).86 In the “Class No. 48, Wines” there were 87 entries among six classes.87 Hunziker won awards for “Special premiums class, best bottle of wine”, as well as “Best Clinton Wine” in the class “Mixed Wines”)—both of which he was awarded a $3 price for attaining (Shafer 1870:37, 145-6). Shaffer (1870:145) further noted that

Your committee was very pleased with the exhibitions of Catawba and other wines; and have seldom found such great excellence in so many samples as were here offered for competition. They were only sorry that there were not two or three premiums each, as they considered G. Hunziker’s, Keokuk, and Chas. Freidrick’s, Ft. Madison, Catawba very superior in many respects.

85. The 1870 census indicates that the children are: Lonza (18), Corra (14), Mary (12), Battea (11), and Hermena (9). Based on the 1870 census information, it would appear that the Hunziker family had been living in Missouri in circa 1852, and by 1856 had relocated to Iowa. Similarly, it would appear that the Hoffman family had been in Illinois since at least circa 1854.

86 Six of the nine classes of grapes judged were won by individuals from Keokuk, two from Hamilton, Illinois, and one from Louisiana, Missouri.

87 The classes were “Catawba, Concord, Clinton, Delaware, ‘wine sweepstakes’, and ‘Special premium of five dollars, for best bottle of Catawba wine, offered by G. Hunziker, Keokuk.” It is interesting to note, that Hunziker was sponsoring the “Special Premium” for the best bottle of Catawba wine, which was awarded to B. F. Lazear, of Louisiana, Missouri.

55 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

… and your committee cannot but recommend a premium on White Concord by G. Hunziker, which we consider a most excellent wine. Besides the above, we find the Norton Virginia, by G. Hunziker, for which we also recommend a premium…

It is assumed that Hunziker’s wine awarded these premiums was produced at his Warsaw wine house, and the grapes were grown in his (or his neighbors) Warsaw vineyards. Subsequent reports from Iowa or Illinois contain no additional mention of Hunziker’s wine or grape production.

On 10 November 1873, at the height of the Economic Panic of 1873, William Hoffman sold his undivided half interest in this property to Gottlieb Hunziker for the sum of $2,000 (HCDB 93:74). This transaction included Lot 12 and 16 in the Subdivision of SE1/4, Section 3, as well as Lots 12 and 13 in the Subdivision of SW1/4, Section 2. On the same day of this transaction, Hunziker negotiated a mortgage with Edward E. Lane (Hancock County) for the sum of $1,500. This note was to be paid off in three promissory notes of $500 each, payable in 2, 4, and 6 years at 6% interest. Hunziker used the same two parcels of land as collateral for this loan (Mortgage Deed; Book 24: Page 200). No evidence of the mortgage release was noted.

The 1874 Illustrated Historical Atlas of Hancock County, Illinois illustrates the Hunziker landholdings at this time (Andreas 1874:126). At that time, the landholdings consisted of approximately 40 acres of land, which included extensive vineyards, as well as what probably were tilled farm and sloped forest lands. Besides the suspected winery, a farmstead appears to have been present on the property as well, located slightly north and west of the winery.

The 1880 U.S. Census of Population indicates that the 55-year old Gottlieb and his 50-year old wife Lizzie are residing in Warsaw at that time. Gottlieb was listed as a “Wine Grower” and his wife as simply “Keeping House.” Living with the couple at that time were a 22-year old servant name Kate Oberlice (Illinois-born), and two farm laborers named Joseph Klipfer (29-year old Baden-born) and Anton Liebich (26-year old Baden-born) (USCB 1880:11). By this date, all of the children had left the family home. Gottlieb Hunziker was also enumerated within the 1880 U.S. Agricultural Census that same year. In that census, Hunziker is depicted as a major producer of both grapes and wine for the Warsaw vicinity [see earlier discussion of 1880 census].

Gottlieb Hunziker maintained a relatively low profile during the latter 1870s and 1880s. Little is known about Hunziker during these years. In January 1883, at 58-years of age, Gottlieb wrote his “last will and testament,” potentially suggesting that he may have been experiencing health problems at that time. The 1891 Plat Book of Hancock County, Illinois is the next cartographic source that illustrates the Hunziker family’s landholdings in the vicinity of the winery complex (Alden, Ogle and Company 1891). At this time, the family had approximately 40 acres of land in the SW1/4, Section 2 (and including the winery complex), 40 acres of land in the SE1/4, Section 3 (including a farm house), and 10 acres in the NW1/4, Section 11—for a total of

56 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State approximately 90 acres of improved lands. The farm was located immediately adjacent to the large vineyard of C. Albers.

In early November 1893, at 68 years of age, Gottlieb Hunziker died leaving behind a widow and five married offspring (all daughters).88 His wife’s obituary noted that Gottlieb Hunziker “was at one time proprietor of an extensive vineyard properties [sic] near Warsaw and the family one of the most prominent and highly respected of this section” (The Daily Gate City, 13 November 1910, page 8). Probate records included a property inventory of Gottlieb’s landholdings at the time of his death (Inventory: Estate of Gotlieb Hunziker, Deceased; filed 25 November 1893). The real property included:

Lots 8, 11, 12, & 16, a subdivision of the SE1/4, Section 3 (T4N, R9W) Lots 12 & 13, , a subdivision of the SW1/4, Section 2 (T4N, R9W) W1/2, NW1/4, SW1/4, Section 2 (T4N, R9W) NW1/4, NW1/4, NW1/4, Section 11 (T4N, R9W) All located in the City of Warsaw, Hancock County, Illinois “being 90 acres in all” and “occupied by the family of the deceased as a homestead.”

E1/2 Lot 11 & All Lot 12, Block 5, City of Keokuk, Lee County, Iowa

The real property inventory noted that “title fee simple believed to be perfect but subject to mortgage of the deceased in favor of William Hoffman, dated November 10, 1873, for the sum of Five hundred dollars with interest at six percent per annum.” In an effort to insure a clear title to the Hunziker lands, William Hoffman executed a deed to the Hunziker estate on 22 December 1893 (HCDB 133:92). The lands described in this deed consisted of the Undivided Half of Lots 12 & 16, Subdivision of SE1/4, Sec. 3, and Lots 12 & 13, Subdivision of SW1/4, Sec. 2. The transaction noted that “the object of this deed is to cancel a trust deed in which Edward E. Lane is trustee… E. E. Lane having died….” As Lane had died, and no release of the earlier mortgage from late 1873 had been filed with Hancock County, Hoffman acknowledged that the three promissory notes referenced in that earlier deed had been paid by Hunziker, thus releasing the mortgage hold on the estate lands. At that time, Lisethe Hunziker, the widow, noted that she was a resident of the City of Warsaw (HCDB 133:92).

In settling the estate of Gottlieb Hunziker, an inventory of his personal property also was undertaken shortly after his death (Inventory: Estate of Gotlieb Hunziker, Deceased; filed 25

88 Gottlieb Hunziker had written a “last will and testament” on 22 January 1883. In that document, he wrote that “In the name of God Amen, I Gottlieb Hunziker of Warsaw, Hancock County, State of Illinois, being of sound mind…” (italics added)—suggesting that Warsaw was his residence at that time. In that document, Hunziker acknowledged his wife Lisetta (presumably giving her the right to reside on the property for the remaining years of her life), and willed to his children each $10. The children mentioned in the will included his “oldest daughter” Louisa Luthy [in 1893, named Miller], “second oldest daughter” Carrie Giesen, “third oldest daughter” Mary Cross [in 1893 named Hedman], “fourth oldest daughter” Bertha Landis, and “fifth oldest daughter” Hermina [Minnie] Tausch. The will was witnessed by Charles A. Warner (physician, neighbor, and fellow vineyard owner) and Henry Anhage--both residents of Warsaw. One might wonder if Mr. Hunziker was not experiencing health issues at this time, ten years prior to his death. Both Gottlieb and his wife Lizette were buried in Oakland Cemetery, Keokuk, Iowa.

57 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

November 1893; Hancock County Probate, Box 211). This personal property inventory lists his “chattels” as:

2300 Gal [gallons] wine 1 Cider Mill 19 Wine Casks 1 Farm wagon 10 Barrels (50 Gal) 1 Spring wagon 4 Tanks 1 cart 7 Kegs (5 Gal) 3 Horses 10 Dz [Dozen] wine bottles 4 Cows 1 Cultivator 1 calf 2 Harrows 8 Dz [Dozen] poultry 1 Mower 1 Double Harness 5 Plows 1 Single Harness 2 Spraying Machines 1 Cart Harness 1 wine press 5 Hogs

The presence of the wine, wine casks, barrels, tanks, kegs, wine bottles, wine press, and potentially even the cider mill, all attest to the fact that Gottlieb was involved in the production of wine on a commercial basis sometime prior to his death in 1893. The 2300 gallons of wine represents approximately one year of production, based on his earlier (circa 1880) reports, and suggests that Hunziker may have been producing wine right up to his death. The presence of the ten dozen wine bottles suggests that Hunziker was also bottling wine at his Wine House. Similarly, many of the agricultural tools (such as the mower, spraying machines, and cart) attest to Hunziker’s potential management of a vineyard on his lands as well. Other tools (cultivator, harrows, plows) and livestock (such as the horses, cows, poultry, and hogs) suggest the management of a traditional small-scale, mixed-use farm as well.

The widow Hunziker continued to own this property through early 1902—presumably residing at this location for an indeterminate time after her husband’s death. On 13 February 1902, the widow Hunziker sold the Warsaw property to Adolf Zimmer for the sum of $3,000 (HCDB 142:92). At this time, Lisetta Hunziker was noted as a resident of nearby Lee County, Iowa.89 The sale of the winery equipment suggests that the production of wine at this Wine House ceased with the death of Gottlieb, her husband, in circa 1893.

In 1900, just prior to his purchase of the Hunziker property, Adolf Zimmer was enumerated in the U.S. Census of Population as a 38-year old, German-born, fairly recent immigrant residing on Main Street in Warsaw. According to the census, he was a tenant farmer who had been in the United States for only 15 years, having emigrated from Germany in 1884. At that time, he was living with his 31-year old wife (Kattie) and their four children: Eugina K. L. (6 years old),

89 Lisetta Hunziker died on 12 November 1910, in Cook County, Illinois. She was buried in Oakland Cemetery in Keokuk, Lee County, Iowa.

58 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

Kunigunde (4 years old) [aka Glenda], Albert G. A. H. (2 years old) [aka Hans], and Otto K. (one year old) [aka Kurt].90 All four children had been born in Illinois.

In 1910, eight years after purchasing the Hunziker estate, Adolph Zimmer was enumerated in the U.S. Census of Population as a 48-year old German-born farmer (“General Farm”) who owned his farm which was located along Hamilton Road. At that time, he was living with his wife Kate, and their five children: Eugenia (16 years old), Kunigundie (13 years old), Hans (12 years old), Kurt (10 years old), and Elvira (7 years old). It was Elvira who had signed her name in the new concrete cistern cap at the Winery in November 1914. Adolph’s 70-year old father (Adam), who had only immigrated to the United States two years earlier in 1908, was living with the family at the time. It is unclear as to how the Zimmer family used the old Wine House at that date. The presence of the new cistern signed by the young Elvira suggests that the Zimmer family may have added substantial improvements to the old Wine House in 1914.

The 1920 U.S. Census of Population indicates that Adolph was 59 years of age and was living at that time with his wife Catherine, a granddaughter (Dorothy Hainline; 2 years 5 months old— Glenda’s daughter), and their two sons: Hans (22 years of age and employed as a teamster at a brewery), and Kurt (21 years of age and occupied as a farm laborer at the home farm). This census return indicates that Adolph was from Bavaria, and his wife was from Hanover. By 1930, both Hans and Kurt had left the farm and the elderly couple was living with 67-year old Fred Mahler, presumably Adolph’s brother-in-law who was working as a farm laborer. Adolph was listed as a “Farm Proprietor” with lands valued at $9,000.

Adolph Zimmer died in late August 1933, while temporarily living in the City of Keokuk, Lee County, Iowa (Hancock County Probate, Estate 116, Box 596). He was survived by his wife, Catherine, sons Albert (St. Louis, Missouri) and Kurt (Warsaw), daughter Elvira Young (Keokuk), and grandchildren Dorothy Mary Hainline (Blandinsville, Illinois—Glenda’s daughter), and George Koeber (Hamilton, Illinois—son of Eugenia).

Figure 9 is a 1938 aerial photograph illustrating the landholdings of Adolph Zimmer (and the former Gottlieb Hunziker) (USDA 1938). The photograph clearly indicates both the extant Wine House, and adjacent farmstead at that time. The photograph hints at the presence of many old vineyards, albeit overgrown and abandoned by this date. Also of note in this photograph is the presence of the road accessing the Wine House along its western end. Today this road passes due south along the property line accessing the county road to the south. The photograph appears to indicate the presence of an earlier road that traverses from the far southwest corner of the Hunziker property diagonally across the adjacent field to the Albers and Shonebacher farms located to the southwest. Both Albers and Shonebacher were prominent grape producers in the county, and the potential connection of this road to the two properties may suggest the commercial interaction between these two vintners in the later years of the nineteenth century. A large barn-like structure in the photograph is present at the Shonebacher farmstead and may represent a second Wine House.

90 Kattie had given birth to a fifth child who had previously died.

59 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

The Zimmer family owned the lands associated with the Hunziker Winery Site through the majority of the twentieth century. The 1955 county plat indicates that the original 110-acre plot once owned by Gottlieb Hunziker was still intact and owned by A. H. Zimmer (presumably Albert H. Zimmer—Adolph’s oldest son). It was not until 3 May 1978 that the descendants of Adolf Zimmer (Robert, presumed son of Albert) sold the property to David Keefer. The Keefer family held title to the property through 1983, at which time they sold it to Ellen Volbraht. In 1989, the Egley family purchased the property from the Security State Bank (Warsaw), and in 1997 title to the long abandoned Hunziker Winery Site was transferred to the Illinois Nature Conservancy (Hancock County Tract Index).

A New Building Type: The Commercial Wine House

Wine production entails four steps to produce: 1) harvesting and crushing grapes, 2) fermenting the must, 3) ageing the wine, and 4) packaging. None of these four steps require any substantial investment in materials or major technological knowledge. As such, production of wine for home consumption in Illinois has been undertaken at the home level no doubt since the initial years of settlement. Similarly, early commercial production was generally undertaken at the farm—often within the farmhouse and/or detached summer kitchen.91

Brush (1855) described early commercial production of wine in Greene County. Grapes were pressed with a common cider press, and the juice extracted from the must was placed in a “cool cellar,” presumably a simple domestic cellar (Brush 1855). During this period, the domestic cellar may have simply consisted of a large rectangular covered pit located outside of the house, within the inner yard. Husmann (1866:135) similarly discussed early wine production and noted that “Of course, the cellar, as before remarked, can be built according to the wants of the grape- grower. For merely keeping wine during the first winter, a common house cellar will do; but during the hot days of summer wine will not keep well in it.” Husman (1866:174) also states that

And if he cannot afford to build a large cellar in the beginning, he can also do with a small one, even the most common house cellar will do through the winter, if it is only kept free from frost. One of our most successful wine-growers here, commenced his operations with a simple hole in the ground, dug under his house, and his; first wine press was merely a large beam, let into a tree, which acted as a lever upon the grapes, with a press-bed, also of his own making. A few weeks ago the same man sold his last year’s crop of wine for over $9,000 in cash, and has raised some $2,000 worth more in vines, cuttings, etc. Of course, it is not advisable to keep the wine over summer in an indifferent cellar, but during fermentation and the greater part of winter, it will answer very well, and, he can easily dispose of his wine, if good, as soon as clear. Or he can dispose of his grapes at a fair price, to one of his neighbors, or take them to market.

91 The type of grapes used, when the grapes were picked (in relationship to their ripeness and/or sugar content), and how they were handled after harvest all affects the quality of wine produced. Fermentation process effects the strength, color, and flavor of the wine. Of major importance for taste is the sweetness (or dryness) and alcohol content of the wine. White wines need to age much less than red wines. Red wines generally require seven to ten years to age.

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This probably was the case in early Nauvoo. In the very early 1850s, Alois Rheinberger appears to have produced wine from his farmhouse cellar, only to construct a small wine house with an arched-covered cellar in his adjoining yard. Even during the 1860s, large residences incorporating the winery into the fabric of the house was a common practice [cf, Stone Hill Winery (Blackwell 1990)].

As witnessed in the greater Cincinnati region in the 1840s, the American wine industry was changing. As Cist (1851) suggests, by the late 1840s, the agricultural labor force working in the viticulture industry—which was predominately German—had been restructured in, and around, Cincinnati by Nicholas Longworth. In the Longworth model, small tenant farmers were supplied with vineyard cuttings, and the harvest from these vineyards were purchased by the wine producer, Longworth (and others). Profits from the grape production were shared with the tenant farmer, and the wine production was centralized with the vintner. With this new model of production introduced by Longworth in the Cincinnati area, a new commercial building devoted solely to the production of wine was established on the local landscape–new commercial building type integrated all these processes of wine production into a single building.

Buchanan (1861 [1852]:58) briefly noted, under the heading “Wine Cellars and Houses” in his 1852 treatise on The Culture of the Grape and Wine-Making, that “Within the last two years, and since the foregoing was published, the interest of the producer has been greatly advanced, by the construction of large wine cellars in Cincinnati; and the establishment of regular wine-houses, conducted by dealers of ample capital. This will insure a fair market for the product of our vineyards, and presents a flattering prospect in future for the cultivator….” Unfortunately, Buchanan discusses the “wine houses” more as businesses, and not as a building type—and does not discuss the physical character and/or layout of these “wine houses.” Of note is Buchanan’s comment regarding “the construction of large wine cellars in Cincinnati; and the establishment of regular wine-houses” (italics added)(Buchanan 1861 [1852]:58).

One of the “regular wine houses” discussed by Buchanan (1852 [1861]: 59) was that of Corneau and Sons, “who prepare both sparkling and still wines; their sales, last year, amounted to over 10,000 bottles, and their business is rapidly on the increase.” In 1849, Corneau and Son had constructed a new wine house in Kentucky (across the Ohio River from Cincinnati) that was so well adapted to wine production that it caught the attention of the agricultural press. Plans and illustrations of this building—which represented a new building type—were quickly picked up by several of the relatively new agricultural press journals. It was the Western Horticultural Review (1850) to first carry a detailed floor plan and illustration of the wine house, noting that it “is probably one of the most complete establishments of the kind in the country.” Cist (1851:254, 256) indicates that Corneau and Son employed five workers, and first produced wine in 1849. In 1850, the firm produced 10,000 bottles of Catawba, with seven and a half acres of vineyards, which they added to every year with new plantings. According to the Western Horticultural Review, one of the more innovative aspects of this new “wine house” was the improvements employed by Corneau and Sons in stemming the grape. But what remained unsaid in the article was the fact that this new building form had removed wine production from the farmhouse and placed all the elements of wine production under a single roof, in a building often removed from the farmstead. Besides an illustration of the building’s elevation, the article included a detailed

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floor plan of the Wine House layout and/or work floor, an as well as details of the apparatus used for stemming and crushing the grape (“cuts of the plan and arrangement of the wine house”).92 The work floor of the wine house included picking tables, stemming and crushing apparatus, and two wine presses (one with a capacity of forty bushels, and the other with a capacity of 100 bushels). Unfortunately, the article contained no details regarding the underlying cellar. The article proceeds to note that “two men being able to stem, mash and place in the press near eighty bushels of grapes in about three houses.” The article further outlines the process: 1) Gathering of grapes, 2) Picking Grapes (removing bad grapes), 3) Stemming grapes, and 4) Mashing of the grapes. The author further proceeds to describe: 5) Pressing grapes,93 6) Casking in cellar, 7) Fermentation, and finally 8) Bottling.94 This commercial wine house was such an advancement over the early methods of production that the U.S. House of Representatives reprinted the Western Horticultural Review article in their Report of the Commissioner of Patents, For the Year 1850 as “Wine-making Near Cincinnati, With Plans of a Wine-House and Machinery” (U.S. House of Representatives 1851).95

Components of this new building type included a “top works” or Wine House (sometimes referred to as the Press House) accompanied by a substantial, generally double-roofed cellar. It was in the wine house where the raw product (grapes) was brought from the field for processing. In the cellar, lining each side of the underground cavern, were a series of large wooden casks for the fermentation process, and subsequent aging. Major component of the complex was the large underground “cavern” or cellar—important for the fermentation and aging of the wine in appropriate environmental conditions. These cellars were characteristically double-roofed for better insulation to the outside world, allowing for the control of both temperature and humidity, which were of concern to the vintner.

What is the origin of this new building type? As noted earlier, in the early 1850s when Alois Rheinberger constructed his small wine house with an arched-covered cellar in his Nauvoo farmyard, it is doubtful that he was aware of the recently published information on Corneau’s Wine House near Cincinnati. It seems much more likely that he—and many other vintners including Mr. Corneau—simply constructed a building type, albeit considerably larger than usual, that was common within the German farm tradition. Common among the rural German inhabitants of Illinois (such as those in the American Bottom) was a distinctive building type located in the inner yard of many German farm families, immediately to the rear of the main

92 It is unfortunate that the floor plan illustration does not have an associated scale, and the accompanying text does not indicate the size of the building.

93 “The wine passes from the bed of the press by means of a conductor, into the basement, from when it is conveyed into casks containing 260 gallons each.”

94 “The wine should not be bottled until it is at least one year old, though it is frequently bottled for immediate use, just previous to the second fermentation.” White wine requires filtering skins from the must, and might be added as an additional step in the production of white wine.

95 This article was re-published in several different venues, including the Ohio Cultivator (December 1850), as well as in Report of the Commissioner of Patents, For the Year 1850 (U.S. House of Representatives 1851).

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house. These summer kitchens, which were substantially built and often had a domed cellar beneath them, were often associated with northern European immigrants, such as the German immigrants in the Cincinnati region.

Several small domed cellars have been documented in southwestern Illinois in association with rural German families. One distinctive mid-century summer kitchen complex was documented by Fever River Research in rural St. Clair County at the West-Seibert Site (see Figures xx and xx). This brick outbuilding integrated a wide range of functions related to the storage and processing of foods into a single structure, and included both an overhead loft for smoking meats, and a double-roofed cellar beneath the main floor. An earlier frame structure with domed cellar beneath it was documented at the Merkel Farmstead, also in St. Clair County. Both the Merkel and West-Seibert examples are associated with rural farmsteads and situated within the inner yard domestic area often associated with the traditional summer kitchen.96 These small structures may simple represent multi-functional summer kitchens with substantial “root” cellars, which would have functioned for a variety of storage tasks including wine fermentation.97 Similarly, the small overhead structures were no doubt multi-functional and would have been used for a variety of food preparation activities. Both of these structures are diminutive examples of the larger mid-century wine houses documented in Warsaw, and the structure at the Merkel Farmstead is believed to have been associated with wine production by the Merkel family—one of the early German Latinier farmers of Shiloh family (Mansberger and Stratton 1995; Statton and Mansberger 1997). Although these substantial “summer kitchens” associated with the early traditional German families of Shiloh Valley may not have been dedicated solely to wine production, they may have been a building type in common use by the 1840s German settler in the Ohio Valley as well—and may have been the proto-type for the Commercial Wine House that developed in the Cincinnati region at mid-century.

In 1865, Charles Eisenmayer (1866a:339-342; 1866b) wrote “Wine and Wine Making” in reference to his Illinois experiences. In that short work, he wrote “The first requisites for wine making are a good cellar—good, clean, sweet casks, industrious hands, and a thermometer.” Eisenmayer proceeds to describe a double fermentation process:

The grapes, when mashed and ready for the press, should be put into large tubs or barrels, and allowed to ferment for a few days, the tubs being covered up. Afterwards press out and put the product in your fermenting cellar, to go through a second fermentation. The temperature should be as even as possible all the time, in order that the fermenting should not be checked. After that your wine is ready for the cellar, and for the market if it has been rightly managed. It is, perhaps, not out of place here to say, that your casks should always be kept clean and sweet; newly emptied brandy casks are always preferable. The foregoing process is applicable to our red

96 The West-Seibert example had a brick blacksmith shop that extended off the rear of the building, with the kitchen portion of the building facing the house, and the blacksmith portion of the building facing the farm yard (Stratton and Mansberger 2003). Neither of these structures were built into the side of a hill, and the cellars were accessed by way of bulkhead entrances with steps.

97 Similar, double-roofed cellars, without above-ground structures, are also present in the area (cf. the Moore-Knobeloch Site; Stratton and Mansberger 2007). With others, such as that documented at the Derleth Site in nearby Washington County, it is unclear as to whether they may have had an overhead structure associated with them or not (Stratton and Mansberger 1997).

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wines. By fermenting over the pomace, you extract all the tannin and astringent substance out of the grapes, which would otherwise be lost. If your must contains too much tannin or astringent matter, from one-fourth to one-fifth sugar water can be added to make your wine more palatable.

A second and inferior quality of wine can also be made by adding sugar water to your pomace. After the first pressing, let it remain a few days and then press again; if you had good ripe grapes you will obtain a good second rate quality of wine (Eisenmayer 1866a:340-341).98

One of the earlier descriptions of the mid-century Midwestern Winery is that presented by George Husmann, of Hermann, Missouri (1866a). Husmann gives a description a “wine cellar and press-house” he was constructing at the time he wrote his treatise on wine making in circa 1865 or early 1866 [and relatively contemporary with the Hunziker Winery].. The wine cellar Husmann was in the process of constructing at the time was designed to store from 15,000 to 20,000 gallons of wine, and was estimated to cost about $6,000 to construct “at the present rates of work.” According to Husmann,

A good cellar should keep about an even temperature in cold and warm weather, and should, therefore, be built sufficiently deep, arched over with stone, well ventilated, and kept dry. Where the ground is hilly, a northern or north western slope should be chosen, as it is a great convenience, if the entrance can be made even with the ground (Husman 1866:133).

As Husmann emphasized, the main entrance a wine cellar should be located at ground level, with the cellar extending into the hillside, utilizing the local topography to its greatest advantage. Although both the Worthen and Hunziker wine cellars were constructed in a similar topographic setting with their entrances at ground level, all wineries were not fortunate enough to have the ideal topographic setting. A large wine cellar in Nauvoo built in circa 1853 on level topography has a covered bulkhead entrance leading into the underground cellar.

The wine cellar Husmann was constructing in Missouri in circa 1865 was to be 100 feet in length, 18½ feet wide, and 12 feet high “under the middle of the arch” which was consistent (albeit slightly longer) than the two Illinois examples documented. Assuming that Husmann described the inside dimension of his wine cellar, it would have contained approximately 1,850

98 Yeast turns sugar into alcohol. Adding sugar is known as “chaptalization”. Eisenmayer’s paper spurred significant debate regarding his addition of sugar water to the must. When asked his opinion as to “sugaring of wine,” he replied “Do with your grape wine as you would do with your coffee, make it to suit your taste. I would call that good wine which was sweetened to the taste of the community in which you live.” Mr. Warder, from Cincinnati, responded with regard to the “unfortunate adulteration” and stated “If we can not make pure wine from the grapes we had better give up the business. It is said that the object was to suit the tastes of the people; now if the tastes of the people are for adulterated wine, still we prefer the pure wine.” Finally, a Dr. Schroeder commented that “his intention was not to make adulterated wine, but to make it good. I spoke on this subject in St. Louis, two hours, and fought my way right through, like and Illinois boy, (laughter,) and I told them that the American people was a sweet people, and must have sweet wine. The Germans have sour pickles, and a wine so sour that it takes three men to drink it, (laughter,) but the sweet wines are better. Go to Italy, there they like the sweet wines. Now, go to France, do they not like the sweet wines best? That is what the American people pay their money for. They want sweet wine. I make sweet wine for the sweet people. (Laughter.).” That same year, Husmann (1866:37), although a purist who defined wine solely as being produced from grape juice (noting that other fruit juices do not produce wine), discussed the science behind monitoring sugar levels and adding sugar to the must as needed—noting that this was not adulteration of wine as many suggested. Husmann (1866) also discussed the role of responsible wine consumption, and temperance.

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square feet of cellar space. For comparison, Worthen’s cellar measured 18’6” wide by 60’9” long—enclosing approximately 1,124 square feet. Hunziker’s cellar measured 16’2” wide by 50’2” long and enclosed approximately 811 square feet. As such, the cellar described by Husmann was approximately 64.6% larger than Worthen’s cellar and 128% larger than Hunziker’s cellar. Similarly, Worthen’s cellar was approximately 38.6% larger than Hunziker’s cellar. The contrast between Worthen’s and Hunziker’s cellars may reflect the difference in wine production, as documented by Bliss’ circa 1865 summary of production, which indicates Worthen was producing 7,500 gallons of wine per year, and Hunziker only 2,500 gallons per year. [The younger character of the Hunziker winery may also have contributed to these differences.]99

The size of the winery’s cellar was directly dependent on the size of the vineyard, and/or the amount of wine that the vintner intended to produce and age, with the aging process generally extending over a two or three year period. Rainford (1898:193) wrote that “In building a cellar, the dimensions must depend upon the size of the vineyard, [and] the amount of stock required to be put away for maturing… …suffice to say that if the vineyard is a small one of, say, 15 to 20 acres, it should be wide enough to contain a double row of casks from 250 to 500 gallons capacity, with a width of 6 feet between the two rows for working space and 2 feet between the casks and the walls of the cellar, or in all say 22 feet; the length must be determined by the amount of stock you wish to put away for maturing. … Three years’ stock of a 15-acre vineyard, taking 2 tons to the acre as an average crop, will be nearly 11,000 gallons, which, if lodged in two rows of 500-gallon casks, will require 66 feet of cellarage in length and 22 feet in width….” Rainford (1898) proceeds to explain how additional wines “can be stored in pipes above and between the 500-gallon casks; and… another years stock can be lodged on the upper floor; so that in a cellar 66 feet in length five years’ crop of a 15-acre vineyard, or about 18,000 gallons, can easily be housed.” Increasing cellar holding capacity was generally handled by lengthening the cellar. In unusual circumstances, a third row of casks could be added by widening the cellar, but this was a more costly option and generally resulted in warmer cellars. Other than their slightly greater width, cellar size emphasized by Rainford generally was consistent with both Hancock County cellars (see also DesPeissis 1892).

According to Husmann, his new cellar was to “be divided into two compartments” with

the back one, at the farthest end of the cellar, to be 40 feet, which is destined to keep old wine of former vintages; as it is the deepest below the ground, it will keep the coolest temperature. It is

99 According to Blum (1969:58), August Beger (a producer of both wine and brandy) reportedly constructed one of the first wine cellars in the community of Nauvoo. His cellar measured 44’ long by 22’ wide, and held 14 casks—each holding 750 gallons of wine (Blum 1969:58). This cellar is unusually wide, and enclosed approximately 968 square feet (approximately 19% larger than Hunziker’s cellar).

In 1880, Emile Baxter and Sons purchased the Wasserzierher Wine Cellar on East Parley Street in Nauvoo. This cellar, which was constructed in 1863, was 74’ long and 22’ wide and contained 18 casks manufactured by Louis Milander (also known as “Cooper Louis”). The casks ranged in size from 300 gallons to 1,100 gallons in size. A press room was added onto the cellars in 1882, and the winery established in 1885. This cellar apparently was the same width as the earlier Beger cellar, and enclosed approximately 1,628 square feet of space (approximately twice the size of the Hunziker cellar).

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divided from the front compartment by a wall and doors, so that it can be shut off should it become necessary to heat the other, while the must is fermenting. The other compartment will be 60 feet long, and is intended for the new wine, as the temperature will be somewhat higher, and, therefore, better adapted to the fermentation of the must. This will be provided with a stove, so that the air can be warmed, if necessary, during fermentation. This will also be closed by folding doors, 5% feet wide.

No evidence of an interior partition, or the use of a stove in the cellar, was noted in the two cellars documented in Hancock County. Whether Hunziker and Worthen informally utilized the front and rear ends of their cellars in different manners (due to the slight variations in temperature between these two areas as indicated by Husmann), is unknown.

Three of the traits of a proper wine cellar, as discussed by Husmann (1866), are that it should be “sufficiently deep, arched over with stone, [and] well ventilated.” Cellars with arched ceilings— whether of stone or brick construction—although not common during the nineteenth century were nonetheless present in a variety of sizes in Illinois, and associated with both domestic and commercial/industrial sites. In mid-February, the Prairie Farmer published “Wine Making at Warsaw, Ills.” which described Worthen’s cellar.

The wine cellar or vault, is built in the side of a hill, and is sixty feet long and eighteen feet wide in the clear, and eleven and a half feet high in the center of the arch; the walls are of limestone two feet thick and arched over with the same material. Side walls carried up to the top of the arch, and the space between filled with earth (G. Worthen 1866a).100

The presence of the overhead arched ceiling helped insulate the cellar from the overhead environmental conditions by allowing it to be deeper into the ground and separated from the overhead space by insulative earthen fill—all of which helped maintain an even temperature. At the Worthen cellar, the top of the cellar’s ceiling was at, or near, historic grade. In contrast, the top of the arched cellar ceiling at the Hunziker winery was approximately 5-6’ below the historic surface, and presumably resulted in more uniform temperature control. In 1866, N. W. Bliss in describing the wine cellars of Hancock County, noted that “many cellars are rendered cool by being doubly ceiled” in reference to their overhead arched ceilings (Bliss 1866). The following year, Hammond (1867:122-124) noted that “there are in the county… about thirty arched wine cellars, while many others are rendered cool by cheaper appliances.” As such, Hammond suggests that all of the local wineries did not have the luxury of an arched wine cellar.

According to Husmann (1866:141), “the cellar should be kept at an even temperature of about 60° during the first few weeks, and if it does not naturally attain this temperature, then it should be warmed by a stove, as much of the quality of the wine depends upon a thorough fermentation during the first ten days.” No evidence of the use of a stove in either the Worthen or Hunziker cellars. G. Worthen (1866a) noted in the wine cellar at the Golden Bluffs Winery south of Warsaw, that “during the cold weather of the present winter the mercury in the cellar has never

100 This same article was reprinted in the Transactions of the Illinois State Horticultural Society for 1865 (G. Worthen 1866b). The article was written in December 1865 by Mr. Worthen.

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been below 45o Farh., though in the open air outside it stood at 12o below zero.” Controlling the cellar’s temperature and humidity levels was crucial to the wine making process. Controlling the environmental conditions within the cellar was accomplished by way of a series of ventilators constructed into the overhead cellar arch.

There will be about six ventilators, or air-flues, on each side of these two cellars, built in the wall, constructed somewhat like chimneys, commencing at the bottom, whose upper terminus is about two feet above the arch, and closed with a grate and trap-doors, so that they can be closed and opened at will, to admit air and light.

Husmann appears to have placed his ventilators approximately 14-15 feet apart along each side of the cellar’s longitudinal walls. Considerably fewer ventilators were incorporated into Hunziker’s and Worthen’s cellars. Worthen integrated three ventilators on each side of his cellar (spaced approximately 15 feet apart), whereas Hunziker integrated only two per side of his cellar. The ventilators in Hunziker’s wine cellar were located approximately 16’ from the back wall of the cellar, and only 7 to 8 feet from the front wall of the cellar—with approximately 36½ feet between the two sets of ventilators. Unfortunately, Husmann gives little detail as to how these ventilators were constructed. The great variation between how Worthen and Hunziker constructed these ventilators suggests that the design and/or construction of these two Hancock County cellars were by different individuals. Both Worthen’s and Hunziker’s cellars also integrated a ventilator within the end wall opposite the main entrance. Whereas the side ventilators are not integrated into contemporary beer cellars, “gable end” vents such as those integrated into the Worthen and Hunziker cellars are commonly integrated into both contemporary beer cellars, and smaller domestic arched cellars as well.

Both the Worthen and Hunziker wine cellars have a small antechamber that leads into the larger, primary cavern. Both antechambers are narrow (approximately half the width of the main cavern; 8’ wide at Hunziker’s cellar; 8’10” wide at Worthen’s cellar) with ceiling heights considerably lower than the main cavern. Although Husmann (1866) describes a similar antechamber entranceway as being constructed on his cellar, it is the same width as the main cavern, and is, in essence, a third room attached onto the main cavern.

Before this principal cellar is an arched entrance, twenty feet long inside, also closed by folding doors, and as wide as the principal cellar. This will be very convenient to store empty casks, and can also be used as a fermenting room in Fall, should it be needed.

The antechamber at Worthen’s wine cellar is only about 8’10” long. The antechamber at the entrance to Hunziker’s wine cellar is 20’4” long. Unfortunately, the front or exterior wall of the Hunziker antechamber had collapsed, making the determination of the size of the main entrance door unknown. Physical evidence, although limited, may suggest that the two swinging doors were collectively 8’ wide. The main entrance at Worthen’s cellar was 6’7” wide with doors hinged both sides. Hunziker’s cellar also had what appears to have been a second entranceway located on the far end wall opposite the main entrance. This 5’ wide entranceway, which is currently infilled with stone, apparently accessed a bulkhead with steps centered in the gable end

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wall of the overhead wine house and fronting the road immediately to the west of the wine house. Archaeological investigations would be necessary to confirm this interpretation.101

Husmann (1866) continues by stating

I need hardly add here, that the whole cellar should be paved with flags [flagstone] or brick, and well drained, so that it will be perfectly dry.

This cellar is destined to hold two rows of casks, five feet long, on each side. For this purpose layers of strong beams are provided, upon which the casks are laid in such a manner that they are about two feet from the ground, fronting to the middle, and at least a foot or eighteen inches of space allowed between them and the wall, so that a man can conveniently pass and examine them. This will leave five and a-half to six feet of space between the two rows, to draw off the wine, move casks, &c.

The Hunziker cellar floor was constructed of brick laid in an herringbone pattern. At the Worthen Winery, “The cellar has a limestone floor, plastered with cement, making it rat-proof and water-proof.”

In the cellar, the fermenting wine was transferred from the fermentation vats by guttta percha hose directly into wooden casks lining each side of the cellar. “These should be made of well- seasoned white oak staves, and can, of course, be of various sizes to meet the wants of the vintner… The best and most convenient size for cellar use I have found to be about 500 gallons. These are sufficiently large to develop the wine fully, and yet can be filled quick enough to not interrupt fermentation. Of course, the vintner must have some of all sizes, even down to the five- gallon keg; but for keeping wine, a cask of 500 gallons takes less room comparatively, and the wine will attain a higher degree of perfection than in smaller casks” (Husmann 1866:138-139). Husmann further noted that the 500-gallon casks were constructed of staves approximately 5 feet in length, and when constructed would be “about as high as it is long.”

Although no evidence of casks were present at the Worthen winery, contemporary accounts suggests the use of 250-260 gallon casks at this winery [source?]. Hunziker’s estate inventory mentions ten 50 gallon casks being present at the time of his death. These kegs seem overly small for use in this large cellar. Most historical sources suggest the use of 500-gallon casks at wineries of this size. Several large (approximately 5- to 6-foot diameter iron barrel hoops or bands) are present at the head of the ravine immediately to the east of the Hunziker cellar entrance. Bands of this size probably document the presence of 500-gallon casks. These bands suggest the contents of the cellar, including remnants of large casks, were pushed over the side of the ravine for disposal. It is unclear as to why the estate inventory did not mention larger casks. At the Wasserzierher wine cellar in Nauvoo—which was constructed in 1863—the casks ranged from 300 gallons to 1,100 gallons in size.

101 It is also possible, although unlikely, that the doorway opens into a second cellar, such as documented in the Kun Brewery in Springfield, where a series of attached cellars were constructed in series.

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Additionally, besides the rows of casks lining the cellar walls, the vintner might also have devoted some space to rack bottled wine. Presence of ten dozen bottles in Hunziker’s estate inventory suggests that he was bottling wine at his establishment. To what extent he sold his wine in bottles versus small kegs is unclear. Present in the inventory also was multiple 5-gallon kegs, which would have been a convenient size for sale to commercial establishments (such as bars, restaurants, and wholesale liquor dealers). Besides the casks and racked bottled wine, little other equipment would have been present in the cellar other than a hand pump.

Other than noting that “the arch of the principal cellar will be covered with about six feet of earth [and] the walls of the cellar to be two feet thick,” Husmann (1866) gives little description of the actual construction of the wine cellar. The cellar walls at the Hunziker Winery were 1’8” thick and at the Worthen Winery were approximately 2’ feet thick [check data]. One of the major differences in construction between the Worthen and Hunziker cellars relates to the amount of fill placed over the top of the cellar’s arch. Ability to have six feet of fill over top of cellar arch requires the floor of the cellar to be considerably deeper below the surface… requires topography with greater relief. Whereas the Hunziker wine cellar was constructed with approximately 5-6 feet of fill over the top of the arch, Worthen’s cellar was not constructed in such a manner. The top of the stone arch at the Worthen wine cellar was at, or very near, grade. The depth below surface—and/or the presence of the fill above the arch—would facilitate the vintner’s ability to maintain an even temperature throughout the year.

Upon completion of the construction of the arched ceiling, the four walls of the cellar were carried upwards to the surface, becoming the foundations for the overhead wine house. As such, the outside dimensions of the wine house are the same as that of the underground cellar.102 In describing his wine house, Husmann states

The press house will be built above the cellar, over its entire length, and will also be divided into two rooms. The part farthest from the entrance of the cellar, to be 60 feet by 18, will be the press-house proper, with folding doors on both sides, about the middle of the building, and even with the surface ground, so that a wagon can pass in on one side and out on the other. This will contain the grape-mill, wine-presses, apparatus for stemming, and fermenting vats for white or light-colored wine.

The other part, 40 feet long, will contain an apparatus for distilling, the casks and vats to store the husks for distilling, and the' vats to ferment very dark colored wines on the husks, should it be necessary. It will also be used as a shop, contain a stove, and be floored, so that it will be convenient, in wet and cold weather, to cut cuttings, &c.

102 Although the Wine House and Cellar are generally constructed at the same time (as noted by Husmann, who states “the wine-cellar and press-house are generally built together”), this was not always the case. The Wasserzierher wine cellar in Nauvoo was constructed in 1863. It was 74’ long by 22’ wide, and held 18 casks. The above-ground wine house was not constructed until 1882, with the winery formally opening in 1885 (Online: History of Baxter’s Vineyards). [If there were no overhead wine house, how would the ventilators work? Does this wine cellar have ventilators?]

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Due to topography, doubtful if either the Worthen or Hunziker wine houses had a drive through the center of the building, as described by Husmann. Unfortunately, other than G. Worthen (1866a) noting that “The wine house which covers the cellar is a one story frame building…”, little is known about the above-ground wine houses at either the Worthen or Hunziker Wineries.

Like the Worthen Wine House, the Hunziker Wine House was probably a front-gable, single story frame structure. Near the eastern end of the wine house, the presence of an interior stone wall may indicate that the main floor of the wine house was divided into two rooms. This interior stone wall was located approximately 6-7’ from the eastern foundation wall of the Wine House. Due to the site topography and steep valley slopes, there is an approximate 6 feet difference in elevation at the east end of the structure. An exterior door, 3’4” in width, is located in the exterior foundation wall at the southeastern corner of the building, and would have accessed a small basement room located beneath the main work floor of the Wine House and above the wine cellar below. This door appears to be an original design element of the building. This barely perceptible stone foundation wall appears to separate the basement room from the adjacent “unexcavated” crawlspace to the west. Considerable slumping of this wall and the adjacent crawlspace makes interpretation problematic. Although the use of this small basement room is unknown, it may have functioned solely as “general storage.” Archaeological investigations could assist with the definition of this space, and address questions relating to the original function of this small basement room.

Currently, it is unclear if this interior stone wall noted above is continuous and/or if it designates the location of an overhead partition wall within the wine house overhead. If so, it would suggest that the overhead work floor within the Wine House would have been divided into two rooms. The eastern room would have been a very narrow room, approximately 6-8’ in width. The function of that room is unknown. If present, this room may have been an office, workshop, or bottling room. Bottling would have required not only the bottles, which are present in the estate inventory, but also a “cork press” or “bottling machine” which is not listed. Additionally, there would have been the need to heat a water source—to scald and/or sterilize and soften the corks—would have been required (Houseman 1866:146), and no evidence that the wine house, as originally constructed, had a chimney (for use of a heating stove).

The western 40-42’ of the Wine House work floor was probably a single large room. Located near what would have been the southeast corner of this room was a large stone pad that measures approximately 6½’ by 7’ in size. This pad probably supported the large press used to extract the juice from the crushed grapes. With the removal of the wine press, a brick chimney was constructed on this stone pad, presumably sometime after the death of Gottlieb Hunziker and the sale of the property to the Zimmer family. Besides this press, this large work room would have contained picking tables, a mill for crushing the grapes, and a series of fermentation vats. Additionally, a portion of this room—or the smaller room off the east end of the building—may have contained bottling equipment and supplies. It is doubtful if Hunziker was distilling spirits, as described by Husmann (1866).

Shortly after his death, Hunziker’s estate inventory gives some indication of the activities conducted in his wine house and cellar. The inventory noted the presence of a cider mill and

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wine press, both of which were probably located in the wine house. Additionally, the four tanks (wooden vats?) mentioned in the inventory probably represent fermenting vats which would also have been located on the main work floor of the Wine House. According to Husmann (1866:137), the fermentation vats “should correspond somewhat with the size of the casks we intend to fill; but they are somewhat unhandy if they hold more than, say four hundred gallons.”

By the late 1840s and early 1850s, American wine-makers had adopted the use of the screw press—a devise well adapted and used in the American apple cider industry by this date. Buchanan (1852[1861]:27), in discussing “Making Wine,” begins by stating that “THE WINE PRESS is made somewhat like a ‘screw cider press.’ An iron screw, three or four inches in diameter is used—either in a strong upright frame, or coming up through the center of the platform (the latter is the cheapest, and most simple in construction…. The power is applied by a strong lever attached to the nut or female screw, and the juice runs out through a hole, with a spout, in front of the platform, into a large receiving tub.”103 G. Worthen (1866a) described the wine press in use at their Golden Bluff Winery: “the press used is five and a half feet square, made of red locust timber, with a three and a half inch wrought iron screw five feet long, which is made fast to the bottom of the press, and the nut and followers arranged to work from the top down wards.” Husmann (1866:136) describes in detail his “Grape mill and Press.” With regard to his grape mill and press, he noted that “A very convenient apparatus, mill and press, is manufactured by Geiss & Brosius, Belleville, Ill., and where the quantity to be made does not exceed 2,000 gallons, it will answer every purpose.” According to Husmann,” the cost of mill and press is about $90, but each can be had separately for $45.” Typical of the mid-century, the presses were of the screw variety with iron screws, which were in common usage. The mill— whether a cider mill or a specialized grape mill, was a portable devise that could be moved from vat to vat, crushing the grapes directly over the fermenting vats. The four “tanks” listed in the Hunziker inventory may represent his fermenting vats, which would have been located in the wine house as well.

George Worthen described the initial wine making process at his Golden Bluffs Winery. He states that the grapes “were taken to the press house in the evening, in open flour barrels, in which they remained overnight, and the next morning they were ground in the bunch in a wooden fluted mill; the mash was pressed immediately, and the must was conveyed into the wine cellar through a gutta percha hose” (G. Worthen 1866a).

After the grapes were crushed, the must may, or may not, have gone through an initial fermentation process in the overhead Wine House. At the Worthen Winery, “Fifty gallons of the must was put into a sixty five gallon cask, and a syphon inserted, one end fitting the bung air tight, and the other placed in a vessel of water, the thermometer in the cellar indicating 65o Farh. The must commenced fermentation in about forty eight hours after being placed in the cask. When the gas ceased to bubble up through the water, the cask was filled from another one, and the bung placed lightly over the hole for a week, when it was driven in tight…” (G. Worthen 1866a). If white wine was to be produced, the must would have been filtered to remove the

103 Research by then Illinois Department of Conservation archaeologists Margaret Kimball Brown regarding the Rhinberger winery at Nauvoo suggested the use of a more traditional levered press.

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solids (particularly the skins) from the must. After spending a short period of time (one or more days) in the fermentation vats, “the must is generally allowed to run into a large funnel, filled with oat straw, and passes through a hose into the casks in the cellar. A hole can be left through the arch for that purpose, as it is much more convenient than to carry the must in buckets from the press into the casks” (Husmann 1866:138). Three equally spaced 4” square holes were located along the centerline of the Hunziker cellar roof allowing easy access from the wine house floor to the cellar below. Three similar holes pierced the ceiling of the Worthen cellar as well.

Another feature associated with both the Worthen and Hunziker wine houses was the presence of a suitable water source. Husmann (1866) noted that “a large cistern, to be built on one side of the building, so that the necessary water for cleaning casks, &c., will be handy; with a force- pump, will complete the arrangement.” Two cisterns were present at the Hunziker Winery. One, located approximately 16’ off the southwest corner of the Wine House, clearly was constructed within the period of significance of the site. It is unclear as to whether the second cistern at this site, which was located approximately 30’ off the southeast corner of the Wine House, was constructed by, or only recapped by, the Zimmer family in circa 1914. The concrete cap of this second cistern was signed 11-10-1914 / ELVIRA ZIMMER.” Both cisterns were constructed of brick. Although George Worthen noted that “A good well of water is in the cellar” of his Golden Bluffs Winery, no evidence of a well was noted at either the Hunziker or Worthen Wineries. 104

Industrial production of wine originally was powered solely by hand power, which was used to run the mills, presses, and pumps. Although the later nineteenth century wine house would have been a prime candidate for the application of a small steam boiler, it is unclear whether later nineteenth century wine houses were outfitted with steam power. A more likely power source was the introduction of electricity, and both the Hunziker and Worthen wineries were, more-or- less, abandoned by the time electricity would have been introduced. The need for power was intermittent and not overly demanding, and may not have been necessary to the vintner. As such, it is doubtful if either Hunziker or Worthen Wineries were powered by anything other than hand power. The function of the brick piles associated with the rear wing of the Hunziker Wine House is unclear, and seems most reasonably associated with the Zimmer occupation, which post-dates the winery.105

Conclusions: At the height of the local grape and/or wine “frenzy” of the middle to late 1860s, Reddington (1870:348-349) wrote in “Wines and Their Use,” which was included within Report of the Secretary of the Iowa State Agricultural Society for the year 1870 that

104 Historical description indicates that ceiling of the Worthen cellar was 11½ feet tall, whereas currently it is only 11 feet in height. One thought, as no evidence of a well was noted during the survey, that the Worthen cellar was re-floored resulting in the filling up of the well, and slight raising of floor.

105 These bricks are located in a couple of discrete “piles” as if they represent a series of deteriorated boiler foundations. If these do represent boiler foundations, it is also possible that they were not associated with the building during its use as a Wine House. It is unclear whether the building was used as a Wine House during the Zimmer ownership, and the building may have had a different use during that time period. There is also the possibility that the brick at this location represents remnants of either brick perimeter walls or brick nogging once associated with frame walls. Future archaeological investigations might resolve this issue.

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Quality of the wine is dependent on several factors, not the least is the variety of the grape, growing conditions, as well as manufacturing process—manufacture of must is such a way that the qualities of the grape are incorporated into the must, fermentation—none of the virtues of the grape are lost, and post-fermentation properly developed and refined… Some suppose that it requires no great skill or science to make wine. That is correct in one sense, but to make a first class wine, having a fine flavor and bouquet, retaining all the spirits without too much acid, it does require both skill and science.

At mid-century, the “Science” referenced by Reddington was manifesting itself in the use of a new building type and the introduction of the specialized Commercial Wine Building. At about the same time, Hammond (1867:122-124) noted that “there are in the county [Hancock County] about two hundred and thirty vineyards, containing from one to twenty acres each, and about thirty arched wine cellars… The amount of capital invested in the business cannot be less than a million and a quarter of dollars.” Although several dozen of these structures were once present in Hancock County, besides the Hunziker and Worthen Wine Houses, only a handful of examples have been documented in Hancock County.106

9. Major Bibliographical References Bibliography(Cite the books, articles, and other sources used in preparing this form.)

Alden, Ogle and Company 1891 Plat Book of Hancock County, Illinois. Chicago.

Andreas, A. T. 1874 An Illustrated Historical Atlas of Hancock County, Illinois. Chicago, Illinois.

Andreas, Lyter, and Company 1872 Atlas of Adams County, Illinois. Davenport, Iowa.

Andrews, Dr. C. N. [Rockford]

106 Three wine cellars are known to be present on Illinois Department of Natural Resources lands at Nauvoo State Park. One is integrated into the Rheinberger House, and it is currently not clear as to whether an independent Wine House is associated with this property. A second one is known as the “Old Ritter Press House and Wine Cellar,” which was identified in the 1970s by the Illinois Historic Structures Survey of Hancock County as HA-H-41. Presently, this author is unclear as to where the third cellar is located. A second wine cellar in Nauvoo, presumably constructed in 1853, was identified by the Illinois Historic Structures Survey as HA-H-38. This cellar is a bit different from the others noted above, in that it has an entrance bulkhead with stairs, and is not built into the side of a hill. Similarly, little is known about this structure, which may not have had an overhead Wine House associated with it. More research is warranted on these structures, especially those located on IDNR lands. A search of HAARGIS, and the National Register of Historic Places data base for Illinois has resulted in no other “hits” for wine, wine cellar, or wineries. Preparation of a Multiple Property Nomination Form for Commercial Wine Houses in Illinois would be warranted.

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1863 “Grape Culture,” Transactions of the Illinois State Horticultural Society for 1861 and 1862. Volume I, pp. 73-84 [1862]. Tribune Book and Job Printing Office, Chicago. [Interesting introduction regarding use of wine, cultural differences, and women! Continues to page 90 on other aspects of grapes, both table and wine.]

Baxter, E. R. [Emile] 1868 “Nauvoo Wine District—Hancock County.” Transactions of the Illinois State Agricultural Society for 1865-66. Volume VI, pp. 225-226.

Baxter, E. and Son 1878 “Manufacture of Wines.” Transaction of the Department of Agriculture of the State of Illinois, pp. 268-269. Springfield: Bailhache and Baker.

Blackwell, Claire F. 1990 National Register of Historic Places Registration Form: William Poeschel House. Department of the Interior, Washington, D.C.

Bliss, N. W. [Warsaw, Illinois] 1866 “[Grape Culture],” Geological Survey of Illinois. Volume 1, Geology, pp. 342- 349. State Journal Steam Press, Springfield.

1867 “Appendix. Report of Committee on Orchards and Vineyards—Central Illinois,” Transactions of the Illinois State Horticultural Society for 1866. Pp. 79-8276. Emery and Company, Chicago.

1868 “Hancock County.” Transactions of the Illinois State Agricultural Society for 1865-66. Volume VI, pp. 219-225.

1868 “Report of Committee on Orchards and Vineyards—Central Illinois.” Transactions of the Illinois State Agricultural Society for 1865-66, pp. 423-427.

Blum, Ida 1969 Nauvoo: An American Heritage. [Carthage, Illinois.]

Brink, W. R. and Company 1874 Sectional Atlas Map of Monroe County, Illinois. Edwardsville, Illinois.

Brink, McCormick and Company 1873 Illustrated Encyclopedia and Atlas Map of Madison County, Illinois. St. Louis, Missouri.

Brink, McDonough and Company 1881 History of St. Clair County, Illinois. Philadelphia.

Brink, McDonough and Company

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1879 History of Washington County, Illinois. Philadelphia.

Brown, Todd J. 2011 “A History of Weinbau in the Lower Missouri Valley: From Dutzow to Hermann, Missouri.” M.A. Thesis, History Department, University of Missouri—St. Louis.

Brush, H. L. [Ottawa, Illinois] 1855 “Vine Culture and Wine Making.” Transactions off the Illinois State Agricultural Society, Volume I, 1853-54, pp. 495-497. Springfield: Lanphier and Walker. [Discusses wine making from native grapes, trip to Greene County, for medicinal purposes.]

1857 “On the Culture of the Vine in Illinois.” Transactions of the Illinois State Agricultural Society, Volume II, 1856-57, pp. 407-412. Springfield: Lanphier and Walker.

Buchanan, Robert 1850 A Treatise on the Cultivation of the Grapes in Vineyards. Wright, Ferris and Company, Cincinnati.

1852 The Culture of the Grape, and Wine-Making. Cincinnati: Morgan and Company. [1861, Seventh Edition. Cincinnati: Moore, Wilstach, Keys and Company. ]

https://books.google.com/books?id=WR1xi3QVsC8C&pg=PA71&dq=%22robert +buchanan%22+wine&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi30rD4nLjdAhVp5IMKHb kBDe0Q6AEIKTAA#v=onepage&q=%22robert%20buchanan%22%20wine&f=f alse

Burkett, Kathryn and Donald Parker 2000 Hancock County, Illinois: A Pictorial History. Donning Company: Virginia Beach, Virginia.

Butler, James and John Butler 2001 Indiana Wine: A History. Bloomington: Indiana University Press. [Good material on Swiss and production at both Vevay, and New Harmony.]

Chapman, Charles and Company 1880 History of Pike County, Illinois. Chicago.

Cist, Charles 1851 Sketches and Statistics of Cincinnati in 1851. William H. Moore and Company, Cincinnati.

1859 Sketches and Statistics of Cincinnati in 1859. Cincinnati.

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Cozzen’s Wine Press 1857 “American Wines.” Fourth Series, Number 2, page 109-115 (July 20).

Dick and Fitzgerald 1858 The Bordeaux Wine and Liquor Dealers’ Guide. A Treatise on the Manufacture and Adulteration of Liquors. New York. [Second edition; previously published in 1857.]

Davenport, Bishop 1836 New Gazetteer, or Geographical Dictionary of North America and the West Indies. Philadelphia.

DeBow, J. D. B. 1853 The Seventh Census of the United States: 1850. Washington, D. C.: Robert Armstrong.

Denman, David 1986 Herman Winegrowing Region, Circa 1850-Circa 1885, Thematic Resources. [Draft National Register of Historic Places Nomination Form; see Blackwell 1990.]

DesPeissis, J. A. 1892 “The Vineyard and the Cellar.” The Agricultural Gazette of New South Wales. Volume II, Part 12. pp. 980-987. Sidney.

Eisenmayer, George C. 1866a “Wine and Wine Making,” Transactions of the Illinois State Horticultural Society for 1865, pp. 28-30. Emery and Company, Chicago.

1866b “Wine and Wine Making,” In “Illinois State Horticultural Society, Tenth Annual Meeting,” Prairie Farmer, New Series, Volume 17, Number 4, pp. 55. [Eisenmayer’s paper “Wine and Wine Making” was reprinted in this long article covering the annual meeting of the Horticultural Society. Also reprinted in the Gardener’s Monthly, Volume 8.]

1868 “Wine and Wine Making,” Transactions of the Illinois State Agricultural Society for 1865-66, pp. 339-342. Springfield: Baker, Bailhache and Company.

1869 “St. Clair County,” Transactions of the Illinois State Horticultural Society for 1868. New Series, Volume II, pp. 314-317. Chicago.

Engelmann, Adolph 1883 “Grapes and Wine.” Transactions of the Illinois Department of Agriculture for 1882, pp. 445-450. Springfield: H. W. Rokker.

Engelmann, George

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1875 “The True Grape-Vines of the United States.” The Bush & Meissner Catalogue of 1875. St. Louis. [See also Trelease, W. and A. Grey. The Botanical works of the late George Engelmann. Cambridge: University Press, 1887.]

1880 “Notes on the Grape-Vines of Missouri.” Transactions of the Academy of Science of St. Louis, pp. 660-662. St. Louis: R. F. Studley and Cmpany.

1883 The True Grape Vines of the United States, and the diseases of the Grape Vine. St. Louis: R. P. Studley and Company.

Engelmann, Theo. [Mascoutah, St. Clair County] 1866 “Wine With Sugar In It,” Transactions of the Illinois State Horticultural Society for 1865, pp. 62-63. Emery and Company, Chicago.

1869 “Remarks on the Samples of Wine Exhibited by Theo. Engelmann, and submitted to the Judgement of the Committee on Wines, as well as to the members of the Society, Generally,” Transactions of the Illinois State Horticultural Society for 1868. New Series, Volume II, pp. 178-178, Chicago.

Fishel, Richard L. 2012 War of 1812 Buttons from Fort Johnson and Cantonment Davis, Hancock County, Illinois. Midcontinental Journal of Archaeology 37:299-334.

2012 Establishing the Populations and Occupation Spans of For Johnson and Cantonment Davis, Hancock County, Illinois. Midcontinental Journal of Archaeology 37:243-256.

Fuller, Robert 1996 Religion and Wine: A Cultural History of Wine Drinking in the United States. University of Tennessee Press, Knoxville.

Gladwin, Fred Elmer 1931 “A History of Grape Growing in the Eastern United States.” Rural New Yorker [published in eleven parts.]

Goodman, L. A. 1898 Forty-First Annual Report of the State Horticultural Society of Missouri. Jefferson City, Missouri.

Gregg, Thomas 1880 History of Hancock County, Illinois. Chicago: C. C. Chapman and Company.

Griffith, Will and Katharine Griffith 1941 Historic Nauvoo: A Descriptive Story of Nauvoo, Illinois. Its History, People, and Beauty. Peoria: Quest Publishing Company.

77 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

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Hammond, A. C. [Warsaw, Illinois] 1868a “Report From Fourth District,” Transactions of the Illinois State Horticultural Society for 1867. New Series, Volume I, pp.88-89. Chicago: Prairie Farmer Company Steam Print. 1868b “Committee on Orchards and Vineyards—Central Illinos,” Transactions of the Illinois State Horticultural Society for 1867. New Series, Volume I, pp. 122-124. Chicago: Prairie Farmer Company Steam Print.

Hancock County Historical Society [HCHS] 1979 Historic Sites and Structures of Hancock County, Illinois. N.p.: Hancock County Bicentennial Commission.

Hannickel, Erica 2010 “A Fortune in Fruit: Nicholas Longworth and Grape Speculation in Antebellum Ohio.” American Studies 51(1-2): 89-108.

2013 Empire of Vines: Wine Culture in America. Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press.

Haws, Gwen Hunsaker and Kenneth Hunsaker 2001 History of Abraham Hunsaker and his Family. Second Edition. Logan, Utah: Abraham Hunsaker Family Organization.

Helms, J. C. 1908 Plat Book of Hancock County by Townships. Carthage.

Hixson, W. W., and Company 1904 Map of Hancock County, Illinois. Hendricks and Richardson, n.p.

Hobart Publishing Company 1907 Biographical Review of Hancock County, Illinois. Chicago.

Holmes, J. W. and C. R. Arnold 1859 Map of Hancock County, Illinois. Buffalo, New York.

Husmann, George [Hermann, Missouri] 1863 An Essay on the Culture of the Grape in the Great West. Hermann, Missouri: Charles W. Kielmann.

1864 “American Wines,” Transactions of the Illinois State Horticultural Society for 1863. Pp. 34-37. L. A. Parks and Company, Alton.

1866a The Cultivation of the Native Grape and Manufacture of American Wines. New York: George E. and F. W. Woodward.

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https://books.google.com/books?id=PL1BAQAAMAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq =husmann+%22american+wines%22&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi71MmO0b DcAhUDoYMKHYJ1AVcQ6AEIKTAA#v=onepage&q=cellar&f=false

1866b “The Progress of American Grape Culture.” In First Annual Report of the Missouri State Board of Agriculture, Appendix IV, Pp. 284-193. Jefferson City: Emory S. Foster. [With accompanying discussion, reprinted from Proceedings of the Missouri State Horticultural Society for 1865 and 1866.]

Illinois State Horticultural Society [ISHS] 1863 “Discussion on Grapes,” Transactions of the Illinois State Horticultural Society for 1861 and 1862, pp. 28-34. Tribune Book and Job Printing Office, Chicago. [Lots of discussion on varieties of grape and their adaptability to Illinois conditions.]

1865 “Grapes,” Transactions of the Illinois State Horticultural Society for 1864. Pp. 37-42. Illinoi State Journal Steam Press, Springfield. [lots of discussion regarding success of the Concord grapes, and strong recommendation for the Norton’s Virginia as table grape and wine.]

1865 “Cultivation of Grapes,” Transactions of the Illinois State Horticultural Society for 1864. Pp. 47-48. Illinoi State Journal Steam Press, Springfield.

1865 “Grapes,” Transactions of the Illinois State Horticultural Society for 1864. Pp. 49-5, 53-56, 70-71, 75. Springfield: Illinoi State Journal Steam Press. [Americans love sweet wines….]

1866 “[Grape Culture],” Transactions of the Illinois State Horticultural Society for 1865. Pp. 27-30. Emery and Company, Chicago. [discussion of rot; endemic to American grape, particularly with older vines; includes Esenmeyer’s article; page 54 table of grape recommendations.]

1867a “Report of Wine Committee,” Transactions of the Illinois State Horticultural Society for 1866. Pp. 60-61. Emery and Company, Chicago.

1867b “Discussion on Grapes,” Transactions of the Illinois State Horticultural Society for 1866. Pp. 74-76. Emery and Company, Chicago.

1868 “Report of Committee Ad-Interim,” Transactions of the Illinois State Horticultural Society for 1867. New Series, Volume I. Chicago.

1869 “Madison County,” Transactions of the Illinois State Horticultural Society for 1868. New Series, Volume II, pp. 309-312. Chicago.

Kennedy, Joseph

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1864 Agriculture of the United States in 1860. Washington, D. C.: Government Printing Office.

Lake City Publishing Company 1894 Portrait and Biographical Record of Hancock, McDonough and Henderson Counties, Illinois. Chicago.

Longworth’s Wine House 1866 Wine-Making. Cincinnati.

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Mansberger, Floyd 1993 The Industrial Archaeology of Breweries: Archaeological Investigations at the Mid-Nineteenth Century Kun-Rudolph Brewery, Springfield, Illinois. Report prepared by Fever River Research for the Illinois Department of Transportation, Springfield, Illinois.

Mansberger, Floyd and Christopher Stratton 1995 The Merkel Farmstead (HABS No. IL-1191). Historic American Buildings Survey prepared for the National Park Service and the Illinois Department of Transportation, by Fever River Research, Springfield.

Middle-West Publishing Company 1904 20th Century Atlas of Hancock County, Illinois. Chicago.

Murray, Williamson and Phelps 1879 The History of Adams County, Illinois. Chicago. [Nine hits on vineyard; P. H. Reihold… Keokuk saloon, Nauvoo vineyard.

Nolan, David J. 2009 "Fort Johnson, Cantonment Davis, and Fort Edwards". In Frontier Forts of Iowa: Indians, Traders, and Soldiers, 1682–1862. Edited by William E. Whittaker. Iowa City: University of Iowa Press, pp. 85–94.

Nolan, David J., Robert N. Hickson, Steven R. Kuehn, and Mark C. Branster 2012 Preliminary Examination of Archaeological Remains from Fort Johnson and Cantonment Davis. Midcontinental Journal of Archaeology 37:257-298.

Reynolds, John P. 1868 State of Illinois and the Universal Exposition of 1867 at Paris, France. Springfield: State Journal Printing Office.

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Pinney, Thomas 1989 A History of Wine in America: From the Beginnings to Prohibition. Berkeley: University of California Press.

2005 A History of Wine in America, Volume 2: From Prohibition to the Present. Berkeley: University of California Press.

2012 The Makers of American Wine. Berkeley: University of California Press.

Pooley, William V. 1908 The Settlement of Illinois From 1830 to 1850. Madison, Wisconsin:

Rainford, E. H. 1898 “Vuticulture. Cellar Construction and Requirements.” The Queensland Agricultural Journal, Volume II. Part 1, pp. 192-196. Queensland.

Reddington, D. 1870 “Wines and Their Use,” In Report of the Secretary of the Iowa State Agricultural Society for the year 1870, pp. 348-368. Edited by J. M. Shaffer. Des Moines, Iowa.

Salisbury, Herbert Spencer 1916 Old Trails of Hancock County. Journal of the Illinois State Historical Society, Volume 9, No. 2, pp. 177-183.

Shepherd, Smiley [Hennepin, Putnam County, Illinois] 1855 The Grape; Its Cultivation Considered with Reference to Illinois, in Climate, Soil, and Location, Propagation, Planting, Cultivation, and Training; Comparative Products and Extent of Territory Suited to Wine Growing. Transactions of the Illinois State Agricultural Society with the Proceedings of the County Societies, and Kindred Associations. Volume I, 1853-5 (Pp. 484-49). Springfield, Illinois.

Shaffer, J. M. [Secretary] 1870 Report of the Secretary of the Iowa State Agricultural Society for the year 1870. Des Moines, Iowa

Snyder, Lillian and Robert Sutton 1986 Immigration of the Icarians to Illinois: Proceedings of the Icarian Weekend in Nauvoo. Nauvoo, Illinois.

Spalding, Dr. [St. Louis, Missouri] 1869 Grapes and Wine in Ohio and Pennsylvania. Transactions of the Illinois State Horticultural Society for 1868. New Series, Volume II, pp. 174-177. Chicago. [Dscusses efforts by Capt. Anderson producing sparkling wines “superior to all

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other American wines for the purpose, and perhaps equal to the finer champaigns [sic] of Europe.”]

Spencer, James [Bloomington, Illinois] 1863 “Grapes For Table Use,” Transactions of the Illinois State Horticultural Society for 1861 and 1862. Volume I, pp. 85-89 [1862]. Tribune Book and Job Printing Office, Chicago.

Stratton, Christopher and Floyd Mansberger 1997 An Architectural Assessment of the Vaulted Cellar at the Derleth Site, Okawville, Washington County, Illinois. Fever River Research, Springfield, Illinois.

2003 Results of the Phase II Archaeological Investigations at the West-Seibert Site (11S1541), Shiloh Valley Township, St. Clair County, Illinois. Fever River Research, Springfield, Illinois.

2007 IL-HABS Documentation of the Moore-Knobeloch Farmstead (IL-HABS No. S- 2007-2), Shiloh Valley Township, St. Clair County, Illinois. Fever River Reserch, Springfield, Illinois.

T., L. H. [L. H. T.] 1867 “The Vineyard: Editorial Notes of Travel—Wine-Making, Grapes, etc.,, at Cincinnati.” The Cultivator and Country Gentleman, Volume XXX, No. 755, page 14-15 (July 40).

Talbot, William 1968 Fort Edwards: Military Post and Fur Trade Center. MORE

Thayer, William Roscoe 1915 The Life and Letters of John Hay, Volume 1. Houghton Mifflin Company, Boston.

Tweet, Roald 1978 Taming the Des Moines Rapids: The Background of Lock 19. U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Rock Island.

U. S. Bureau of the Census 1850a Agricultural Schedule of Hancock County, Illinois. Online at Ancestry.com.

1850b Population Schedule of Hancock County, Illinois. Online at Ancestry.com.

1860a Population Schedule of Hancock County, Illinois. Online at Ancestry.com.

1860b Agricultural Schedule of Hancock County, Illinois. Online at Ancestry.com. .

82 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

1870a Agricultural Schedule of Hancock County, Illinois. Online at Ancestry.com. .

1870b Population Schedule of Hancock County, Illinois. Online at Ancestry.com. .

1880a Agricultural Schedule of Hancock County, Illinois. Online at Ancestry.com..

1880b Population Schedule of Hancock County, Illinois. Online at Ancestry.com.

1900 Population Schedule of Hancock County, Illinois. Online at Ancestry.com.

U.S. House of Representatives 1851 “Wine-making Near Cincinnati, With Plans of a Wine-House and Machinery.” Report of the Commissioner of Patents, For the Year 1850. Part II. Agriculture, pp. 238-241. 31st Congress, Second Session, Executive Document No. 32. Washington: Office of Printers to House Reps.

von Daacke, John F. 1964 "Sparkling Catawba": Grape Growing and Wine Making in Cincinnati, 1800- 1870. M.A. Thesis, University of Cincinnati.

1967 “Grape-Growing and Wine-Making in Cincinnati, 1800-1870.” The Bulletin of the Cincinnati Historical Society, 25:196-215.

Warder, Dr. 1864 “Grape Culture,” Transactions of the Illinois State Horticultural Society for 1863. Pp. 47-53, 57-58. L. A. Parks and Company, Alton. [Pages 53-55 contain additional information on grape production, including results of a visit to the Troy Hill vineyard in Pittsburgh vicinity.]

Warsaw [City of] 1962 Warsaw Sesquicentennial, 1812-1962. Warsaw, Illinois

Western Historical Company 1879 The History of Des Moines County, Iowa. Chicago.

1879 The History of Lee County, Iowa. Chicago.

1879 The History of Muscatine County, Iowa. Chicago.

1879 The History of Scott County, Iowa. Chicago.

Western Horticulture Review 1850 “The Frontispiece,” Volume 1, Number 2, pp. 3, 96-99.

83 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

White, Charles A. 1904 Biographical Memoir of Amos Henry Worthen, 1813-1888. Paper read before the National Academy. Reprinted from Biographical Memoirs National Academy of Sciences, 1893, pp. 339-362. Washington, D.C.

Wilgus, G. 1869 “Washington County,” Transactions of the Illinois State Horticultural Society for 1868. New Series, Volume II, pp. 319-320. Chicago.

Worthen, Amos H. [Senior] 1857 “Geology of Certain Counties,” Report on the Geological Survey of the State of Iowa: Embracing the Results of Investigations Made During Portions of the Years 1855, 56 & 57. Volume I, Part I: Geology, by James Hall and J. D. Whitney. N.p.

1866 Geological Survey of Illinois. Volume 1, Geology. State Journal Steam Press, Springfield.

Worthen, Amos H., [Junior] 1890 “Report on Grapes,” Transactions of the Illinois State Horticultural Society for 1889. New Series, Volume 23, pp. 95-99. Sentinel-Democrat Printing Company, Alton.

Worthen, George B. 1865 “Wine Making at Warsaw, Ill.” Transactions of the Illinois State Agricultural Society with the Proceedings of the County Societies, and Kindred Associations. Volume VI, 1865-66 (Pp. 349-351). Springfield, Illinois.

1866 “Wine Making at Warsaw, Ills.,” Prairie Farmer, New Series, Volume 17, No. 7, pp. 102.

1866 “Wine Making at Warsaw, Ills.,” Transactions of the Illinois State Horticultural Society for 1865. Pp. 63-64. Emery and Company, Chicago.

1889a “Report of Committee on Grapes,” Transactions of the Illinois State Horticultural Society for 1888, pp. 51-52. J. W. Franks and Sons, Peoria.

1889b “From Report of Committee on Grapes,” Twenty-second Annual Report of the Ohio State Horticultural Society for the Year 1888-9. Columbus, Ohio: Westbote Company.

Wright, R. Lane 2017 The Rheinberger House: Untold Nauvoo Stories. Online PowerPoint presentation (http://www.nauvoohistory.org/wp- content/uploads/2017/02/RheinbergerHousePresentation.pdf).

84 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

Previous documentation on file (NPS): Primary location of additional data: preliminary determination of individual listing (36 CFR 67 has been State Historic Preservation Office requested) Other State agency previously listed in the National Register Federal agency x previously determined eligible by the National Register Local government designated a National Historic Landmark University recorded by Historic American Buildings Survey #______Other recorded by Historic American Engineering Record # ______Name of repository: recorded by Historic American Landscape Survey # ______

Historic Resources Survey Number (if assigned):

85 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

10. Geographical Data

Acreage of Property F Less than one acre. (Do not include previously listed resource acreage; enter “Less than one” if the acreage is .99 or less)

Latitude/Longitude Coordinates Datum if other than WGS84: F (enter coordinates to 6 decimal places)

1 3 Latitude Longitude Latitude Longitude

2 4 Latitude Longitude Latitude Longitude

______Verbal Boundary Description (Describe the boundaries of the property.)

______Boundary Justification (Explain why the boundaries were selected.)

The boundary selected incorporates the land historically associated with the industrial site.

11. Form Prepared By name/title Floyd Mansberger and Christopher Stratton date 7/15/2018 organization Fever River Research, Inc. telephone (217) 341-8138 street & number P. O. Box 5234 email [email protected] city or town Springfield state IL zip code 62705

Additional Documentation Submit the following items with the completed form:

 GIS Location Map (Google Earth or BING)  Local Location Map  Site Plan  Floor Plans (As Applicable)  Photo Location Map(Include for historic districts and properties having large acreage or numerous resources. Key all photographs to this map and insert immediately after the photo log and before the list of figures).

86 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

Photographs: Submit clear and descriptive photographs. The size of each image must be 3000x2000 pixels, at 300 ppi (pixels per inch) or larger. Key all photographs to the sketch map. Each photograph must be numbered and that number must correspond to the photograph number on the photo log. For simplicity, the name of the photographer, photo date, etc. may be listed once on the photograph log and doesn’t need to be labeled on every photograph.

Photo Log

Name of Property: Hunziker Winery Site

City or Vicinity: Warsaw

County: Hancock State: Illinois

Photographer: Floyd Mansberger and Christopher Stratton

Date Photographed:

Description of Photograph(s) and number, include description of view indicating direction of camera:

Photo 1 of 12. Entrance to Hunziker Winery Site cellar (looking west/northwest). Eastern foundation wall of Top Works can be seen in background (IL_HancockCounty_Hunziker Winery Site_0001).

Photo 2 of 12. Eastern wall, illustrating location of doorway (looking west/northwest) (IL_HancockCounty_Hunziker Winery Site_0002).

Photo 3 of 12. View of southeast corner of Wine House (looking east along south foundation wall) (IL_HancockCounty_Hunziker Winery Site_0003).

Photo 4 of 12. Wine House foundation illustrating eastern cellar room and upper end of brick vent (looking north along eastern foundation wall) (IL_HancockCounty_Hunziker Winery Site_0004).

Photo 5 of 12. View of interior wall, stone pad, and south exterior wall of the Wine House (IL_HancockCounty_Hunziker Winery Site_0005).

Photo 6 of 12. View of entranceway of cellar, looking east from inside cellar. Note the difference in the color of the stone in the arch (IL_HancockCounty_Hunziker Winery Site_0006) .

Photo 7 of 12. View from inside the cellar, looking east from far western end of cellar (IL_HancockCounty_Hunziker Winery Site_0007).

Photo 8 of 12. View down the center of the cellar from entranceway, looking west (IL_HancockCounty_Hunziker Winery Site_0008).

Photo 9 of 12. View of western end wall of cellar illustrating blocked up doorway and overhead vent. Note the difference in the color of the stone in the arch (IL_HancockCounty_Hunziker Winery Site_0009).

87 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

Photo 10 of 12. View of above-ground foundation remains associated with the Hunziker Winery. The stone represents foundation walls, whereas the brick represents the top of a vent shaft (IL_HancockCounty_Hunziker Winery Site_0010).

Photo 11 of 12. View of vent along south wall of Wine House, looking from Wine House foundation wall down into the cellar below (IL_HancockCounty_Hunziker Winery Site_0011).

Photo 12 of 12. Cellar vent at the Hunziker Winery, looking up from cellar floor (IL_HancockCounty_Hunziker Winery Site_0012).

Paperwork Reduction Act Statement: This information is being collected for applications to the National Register of Historic Places to nominate properties for listing or determine eligibility for listing, to list properties, and to amend existing listings. Response to this request is required to obtain a benefit in accordance with the National Historic Preservation Act, as amended (16 U.S.C.460 et seq.). Estimated Burden Statement: Public reporting burden for this form is estimated to average 100 hours per response including time for reviewing instructions, gathering and maintaining data, and completing and reviewing the form. Direct comments regarding this burden estimate or any aspect of this form to the Office of Planning and Performance Management. U.S. Dept. of the Interior, 1849 C. Street, NW, Washington, DC.

88 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service / National Register of Historic Places Registration Form NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018

Hunziker Winery Site Hancock, Illinois Name of Property County and State

List of Figures (Resize, compact, and paste images of maps and historic documents in this section. Place captions, with figure numbers above each image. Orient maps so that north is at the top of the page, all document should be inserted with the top toward the top of the page.

Figure 1: United States Geological Survey (USGS) 7.5-minute topographic map illustrating the location and limits of the Hunziker Winery Site (outlined in red) and survey limits (outlined in blue) (USGS Warsaw, IL-MO 1975). Figure 2: United States General Land Office (USGLO) plats illustrating the location of the Hunziker Winery Site.

NEED TO FINISH LATER…

89 Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock Table 1: Chain-of-title for the Hunziker Winery Site

Date Grantor Grantee Parcel Price Instrument Reference 3 July 1835 USA David Barber SW¼, Sec. 2 $200 FD 699:134 (T4N, R9W) 19 January 1858 David Barber (Washington Austin Barber Multiple Parcels (1) $13,520 WD 47:651 County, Ohio) (Pike County, Illinois) 14 November 1864 A. Barber W. Hoffman & Geo. Hunziker Lots 12 & 13 (SW1/4, $1,300 WD 66:329 (Pike County, Illinois) (Hancock County, Illinois)(2) Sec. 2, T4N, R9’W) (3) 10 January 1868 Geo. Hunziker C. F. Matheny Undivided ½ Interest in $2,500 WD? 78:7 (Keokuk, Iowa) (St. Louis, Missouri) Lots 12 & 13 and other lands (4) 6 May 1868 C. F. Matheny Geo. Hunziker Undivided ½ Interest in $2,500 WS? 84:38 (St. Louis, Missouri) (Keokuk, Iowa) Lots 12 & 13 and other lands (4) 10 November 1873 W. Hoffman Geo. Hunziker Undivided ½ Interest in $2,000 WD 93:74 (Hancock County, Illinois) (Lee County, Iowa) Lots 12 & 13 and other lands (5) 22 December 1893 William Hoffman Lisethe Hunziker See Note 6 $0.00 WD 133:92 (City of Warsaw) (City of Warsaw) 13 February 1902 Lisetta Hunziker Adolf Zimmer See Note 7 $3,000 WD 142:92 (Lee County, Iowa) (City of Warsaw) 3 May 1978 Robert Zimmer David Keefer See Note 8 -- WD -- 1983 David Keefer Ellen Volbraht See Note 9 -- WD -- 1989 Security State Bank Rod Egley -- WD -- 1997 Rod Egley Illinois Nature Conservancy -- WD --

Note 1. Multiple parcels of land located throughout Hancock County and totaling approximately 400 acres besides the approximate 50 acre parcel located in the SW1/4, SW1/4, Section 2 (on which the winery was to be constructed at a future date). Note 2: The second grantee was listed as “Geo. Hunziker”—presumably the “Geo.” was an abbreviation for Gottlieb. Mr. Hunziker’s wife’s name was indicated as Lisetha Hunziker. Note 3: On 24 February 1846, much of Section 3 (and presumably some of Section 2) was subdivided into a series of small, approximate 10-acre parcels of land, and a series of new streets laid out, incorporating this land into the City of Warsaw (Plat Book 1: Page 73). Lots 12 and 13 totaled approximately 21.27 acres, and included roads dedicated to public travel. Note 4: Included Lot 16, Subdivision of SE ¼, Sec. 3; Lots 12 & 13, SW1/4, Sec. 2, and Lot 12, SE1/4, Sec 3—for a total of approximately 40 acres. Note 5: Consisted of Lot 12 & 16, Subdivision of SE1/4, Sec. 3, and Lots 12 & 13, Subdivision of SW1/4, Sec. 2. On the same day of this transaction, Hunziker negotiated a mortgage with Edward E. Lane (Hancock County) for the sum of $1,500. This note was to be paid off in three promissory notes of $500 each, payable in 2, 4, and 6 years at 6% interest. Hunziker used the same two parcels of land as collateral for this loan (Mortgage Deed; Book 24: Page 200). No evidence of the mortgage release was noted. Note 6: The grantee of this deed was the estate of G. Hunziker, deceased. The lands described consisted of the Undivided ½ of Lots 12 & 16, Subdivision of SE1/4, Sec. 3, and Lots 12 & 13, Subdivision of SW1/4, Sec. 2. The transaction noted that “the object of this deed is to cancel a trust deed in which Edward E. Lane is trustee… E. E. Lane having died…”. As Lane had died, and there apparently was not a release of the earlier mortgage, Hoffman acknowledged that the three promissory notes had been paid by Hunziker, thus releasing the mortgage hold on the estate lands. Note 7: The deed referenced sale of Lots 8, 11, 12, & 16, SE1/4, Sec. 3, W1/2, W1/2, SW1/4, Sec. 2, and the NW1/4, NW1/4, NW1/4, Sec. 11—consisting of 90 acres, more or less. Note 8: This sale included two tracts of land. Tract 1 was identified as Lots 4 & 7, SE1/4, Sec. 3 (consisting of approximately 20 acres), and Tract II was identified as Lots 8, 11, 12, & 16, SE1/4, Sec. 3, W1/2, W1/2, SE1/4, Sec. 2, and NW1/4, NW1/4, NW1/4, Sec. 11 (consisting of approximately 90 acres). Note 9: The Volbraht family apparently used the property as collateral with the Security State Bank (Warsaw). It appears that the mortgage may have gone into default, with the bank transferring the property to the Egley family a few years later.

90 Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

HunzikerWinery Site Survey Limits

Figure 1. United States Geological Survey (USGS) 7.5-minute topographic map illustrating the location and limits of the Hunziker Winery Site (outlined in red) and survey limits (outlined in blue) (USGS Warsaw, IL-MO 1975).

91 Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 2. United States General Land Office (USGLO) plats illustrating the location of the Hunziker Winery Site. The map at top was produced in 1831, based on a survey conducted in 1821. The location of Fort Edwards, a War of 1812-era fortification (and future site of Warsaw), is illustrated at far left of the map. The map at bottom was produced in 1862 (USGLO 1831 Vol. 21, p. 67; 1862 Vol. 48, p. 43).

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 3. Approximate location of the Hunziker Winery Site, as depicted on the 1859 Map of Hancock County, Illinois Holmes and Arnold 1859). The location of the future winery is on lands owned by David Barber at the time. Barber was an Ohio attorney who had invested significantly in Illinois lands.

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 4. “Map of Wilcox Township” as depicted in the 1874 Illustrated Historical Atlas of Hancock County, Illinois (Andreas 1874:126). This plat illustrates a great number of vineyards throughout the county, concentrated immediately south of Warsaw (in the vicinity of Worthen’s Golden Bluff Winery), and northeast of Warsaw (in the vicinity of the Hunziker Winery).

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 5. Detail from the 1874 Illustrated Historical Atlas of Hancock County, Illinois showing the location of Gottlieb Hunziker’s landhouldings (outlined in red), and the location of the Hunziker Winery Site (circled in red) (Andreas 1874:126). The landholdings consisted of approximately 40 acres of land, which included extensive vineyards, as well as suspected tilled farmland, and sloped forest land. Besides the suspected winery, a farmstead was also present. Note the extensive vineyards associated with both the Keoneke and Albers property immediately to the south of the Hunziker landholdings (outlined in yellow).

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 6. Detail from an 1891 Plat Book of Hancock County, Illinois (Alden, Ogle and Company 1891:43) illustrating the Hunziker landholdings at this time (outlined in red), and two of his neighbors known to be major producers of grapes (highlighted in yellow). Although the winery is not indicated, it presumably is still present at this time.

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 7. Detail of the City of Warsaw section of the 1891 Plat Book of Hancock County, Illinois illustrating the Hunziker landholdings (outlined in red) (Alden, Ogle and Company 1891).

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 8. Mrs. Gottlieb [Lizette] Hunziker’s obituary (The Daily Gate City, Keokuk, Iowa (13 November 1910, page 8) (https://www.findagrave.com/memorial/171258074/lizzetta- hunziker#view-photo=167196741).

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 9. Aerial photograph illustrating the landholdings of Adolph Zimmer (USDA 1938). The red line encircles the edge of the Zimmer property. The smaller red-circled area represents the winery site and the larger circle represents the location of the farmstead (with the house on the western edge and a barn on the eastern edge of the site). The image appears to depict older vineyard and/or pasture lands that have begun to overgrow with trees and/or scrub forest by this date. The yellow circle depicts the John Shonebacher property. Note the potential road connecting Shonebacker and Albers farmstead with the Hunziker Wine House.

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

D A B

C

Figure 10. Site plan of the Hunziker Winery Site. Areas A and B comprise the original above-ground Wine House. Area B represents a small basement room located beneath the eastern end of the Wine House. Area C represents an area that was enclosed with a frame structure at an unknown point in time. It is unknown whether this addition was constructed during the use of the building as a winery, or potentially post-dates the Hunziker ownership of the property. Areas B and C are approximately 5-6’ lower in elevation than adjacent Area A. Area D was originally an open area at the entrance to the underground cellar. The ground surface at Area D is approximately 20-22’ lower than that at Area A. At some point in time—perhaps when Area C was enclosed, a frame structure was constructed over Area D as well.

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 11. Plan of the Hunziker Winery cellar (FRR 2017).

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 12. Sectional view of the wine cellar at the Hunzicker Winery Site, illustrating existing conditions (left), and interpretive view illustrating the outline of the above-grade Press House or “Top Works” in place (right).

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 13. Detail of south Wilcox Township, as depicted on the 1859 Map of Hancock County, Illinois (Holmes and Arnold 1859). The Worthen family’s Golden Bluff Vineyard and Winery was located in the northern portion of Section 27 (here highlighted in red). At this time, the Worthen family does not own any of the land that was later to be associated with this vineyard. It would appear that the vineyards which are soon to be common place on this landscape had, as yet, not been established.

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 14. Worthen family landholdings in Wilcox Township, south of Warsaw (Hancock County), as illustrated on the 1874 Illustrated Historical Atlas of Hancock County, Illinois (Andreas 1874) (outlined in red). Note the identification of the vineyard (the Golden Bluff Vineyard) on lands owned by “A. H. & G. B. Worthen.” Other large vineyards were present in the immediate area by this date, and included substantial vineyards on lands owned by N. W. Bliss, J. B. Johnson, W. E Barnes, G. S. Knox, a Mr. Smith, and a Mr. Hill (here circled in green). Immediately off the map to the south was a large vineyard owned by J. Peyton. It was Worthen’s neighbor Mr. Bliss, who authored Grape Culture, which was published by Worthen in 1866 (Worthen 1866).

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 15. Plan of Worthen’s Golden Bluff Winery cellar, rural Hancock County, Illinois (FRR 2017). This cellar was constructed in 1865.

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 16. Sectional view through Worthen’s Golden Bluff Winery’s cellar, illustrating the current conditions.

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 17. Comparison of the plans of the cellars located at the Hunzicker Winery (top) and Worthen’s Golden Bluff Winery (bottom), rural Hancock County, Illinois.

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 18. Comparison of sectional views of the cellars located at the Hunzicker Winery (left) and Worthen Winery (right) sites, rural Hancock County, Illinois. In each of the images, the left side of the sectional view is through a vent, whereas the right side of the view illustrates the construction slightly offset from the vent.

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

. Figure 19. Entrance to Worthen’s Golden Bluff Winery cellar, rural Hancock County, Illinois.

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 20. Entrance to Worthen’s Golden Bluff Winery cellar, rural Hancock County, Illinois. The cap stone has a carved “1865”[?] on its face.

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 21. Interior view of Worthen’s Golden Bluff Winery cellar.

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 22. Comparison of cellar vents at the Hunziker Winery (Left) and at Worthen’s Golden Bluff Winery (right).

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Table 2. Viticulture Statistics of Hancock County (Bliss 1866)

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock Table 3 Viticulture Statistics of Nauvoo, Hancock County (Bliss 1866)

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock Table 4 Viticulture Statistics of Warsaw, Hamilton, and Basco, Hancock County (Bliss 1866). William Hoffman—Gottlieb Hunziker’s partner and Warsaw resident—is circled in red.

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 23. Theodore Englemann first produced wine at the Looking Glass Vineyard, rural Shiloh Township, St. Clair County, in 1854.

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 24. “Residence of Fred’k Baum, Nauvoo, Ills.,” as depicted in the 1874 Illustrated Historical Atlas of Hancock County, Illinois (Andreas 1874:111). Note the presence of the extensive vineyards in front of the house. Baum was one of the earlier residents to pursue viticulture in the Nauvoo vicinity. It is interesting to speculate as to whether the large hip-roofed stone outbuilding was a Wine House (with subterranean cellar).

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 25. “View of Tower Place—The Residence of John L. Moore, Manufacturer of Pure Wines, Quincy, Ills.” Andreas, Lyter and Company 1872:96).

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 26. Residence of William Eliot Smith, Washington Street, Middle Alton, Illinois (Brink, McCormick and Company 1873:160). Smith’s wine house, if he had a dedicated structure of that type, is apparently not depicted on this image.

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 27. Grape vineyard in Nauvoo State Park. The beginnings of this vineyard were planted by John Sillar in circa 1846. In 1851, Alois Rheinberger purchased the property and expanded the vineyard and winery complex (HCHS 1979).

Figure 28. Hilda Rheinberger standing in Alois Rheinbeger’s vineyard [her father?]. Photo by Harold Allen, reproduced in Blum (1969:60).

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 29. Vineyard Scene, Nauvoo (Griffith and Griffith 1941:38).

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 30. Press House and Wine Cellar built by George Ritter, located within Nauvoo State Park (HCHS 1979).

Figure 31. Entrance to Ritter wine cellar, Nauvoo State Park (Blum 1969:55).

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 32. Alois Rheinberger (left) and the Rheinberger House and vineyard (as depicted on a circa 1861 drawing) (Wright 2017).

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 33. Interior view of Rheinberger House cellar, Nauvoo State Park. Top: Wright (2017). Bottom: HCHS (1979).

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 34. Two views of the wine press at Nauvoo State Park. This is the Baxter Press exhibited at the Rheinberger House. Top: Blum (1969:58). Bottom: Wright 2017.

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 35. Rheinberger house and wine cellar, Nauvoo State Park. Bottom: Interior view of wine cellar (https://www.dnr.illinois.gov/Parks/Pages/Nauvoo.aspx).

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 36. This cellar is located in Nauvoo, and was identified by the Illinois Historic Structures Survey as site HA-H-38. It is unclear as to whether or not this cellar, which apparently was constructed in 1853, ever had an overhead Wine House (HCHS 1979; IHSS 197?).

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 37. Emile Baxter’s Golden Hills Vineyard—not to be confused with the Worthen’s Golden Bluff Vineyard (http://www.nauvoowinery.com/baxters-history.html).

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 38. Two pages from Griffith and Griffith (1941:np).

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 39. Harvesting grapes at the Baxter Vineyard, circa 1920s (Nauvoo, Illinois) (https://illinoiswine.com/wordpress/wp- content/uploads/2016/07/Around-1920-grape-picking-at-Baxter-Vineyard.jpg; http://www.nauvoowinery.com/baxters- history.html).

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 40. View of wine cellar purportedly from Nauvoo, circa 1909 (Center for Hancock County History, Western Illinois University Archives and Special Collections; https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQE1- AYWgPbeWRTQw__qpGSciRrDSG6I8GH4byVtCRoMW66A2UqqA). [Better image needed to read date.]

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 41. This photograph was labeled “The wine cellar of the Popel-Giller Company,” and identified both Henry Klump (left) and Phillip Weh (right) (HCHS 1979). Pepel-Giller Company was a large brewery located north of Warsaw, and it is doubtful that these are wine casks. It appears that these casks are located in a shallow basement, and not in typical wine, or beer, cavern.

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 42. Views of mid-nineteenth century wine houses are few in number, particularly for the Midwest. These two images are presented as examples of small mid-century Wine Houses presumably associated with subterranean cellars. Top: “View of Wine House of Mr. Corneau & Son, Near Latonia, Cincinnati, O.” (Western Horticultural Review 1850). Bottom: View of the Geyserville Winery of Julius Stamer and B. W. Feldmeyer, Sonoma County, California. This winery was constructed in circa 1885, and had a capacity of 75,000 gallons of wine per year—and typifies late nineteenth century wineries of California (Illustrated History of Sonoma County 1889).

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 43. Wine House and cellar belonging to J. Skinner, Green Valley, Eldorado County, California. Top: The small building built into the hillside with splayed stone retaining walls, and fronting a well presumably represents the wine cellar with the overhead wine house. Below: Photograph of the same structure (http://skinnervineyards.com/about- us/historical-site/).

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 44. View of Tower Place Wine House, located on the suburban estate of John L. Moore, Quincy, Illinois (Andreas, Lyter and Company 1872:96).

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 45. Two views of the suspected middle nineteenth century Wine House (Press House and subterranean cellar) documented at the Merkel Farmstead, rural St. Clair County, Illinois (Mansberger and Stratton 1995).

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 46. Two views of the Merkel Wine House and Cellar, rural St. Clair County, Illinois (Mansberger and Stratton 1995).

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 47. Plan of Mr. Corneau and Son’s Wine House at Latonia, near Cincinnati, Ohio in 1850 (Western Horticultural Review 1850)..

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 48. Advertisement card for the estate sale of Dr. R. T. Underhill. The Underhill Winery was located in Westchester County, New York, and had an extensive system of subterranean cellars. By the early 1870s, Dr. Underhill died in 1871, and his family sold off the extensive contents of his wine cellar at auction. This advertisement card illustrates the interior of a mid-century vaulted cellar associated with wine production (Westchester County Historical Society, Virtual Archives).

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 49. Two views of Longworth’s Cincinnati wine cellars (bottom) and large wine press (Longworth’s Wine House 1866). Note the ventilator openings in the overhead ceiling.

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 50. Detail of Corking Machine used by Nicholas Longworth at his Cincinnati wine house (Longworth’s Wine House 1866). A simple corking machine similar to this may have been in use at Hunziker’s winery.

Figure 51. Details of grape crusing and stemming apparatus utilized by Corneau and Son at their Wine House (Western Horticultural Review 1850).

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 52. View of the brick smokehouse and/or summer kitchen at the West-Seibert Site, rural St. Clair County, Illinois. Note the bulkhead entrance to the cellar and stone cap over the well (Stratton and Mansberger 2003).

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 53. Floor plans of the combination summer kitchen/smokehouse at the West- Seibert Site. (LEFT) First floor plan and (RIGHT) second floor plan (Stratton and Mansberger 2003).

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 54. Left: Floor plan of the cellar located beneath the combination summer kitchen/smokehouse at the West-Seibert Site. Right: Sectional view of the combination summer kitchen/smokehouse at the West-Seibert Site (Stratton and Mansberger 2003).

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 55. Sanborn Fire Insurance map from 1890 illustrating G. V. Stevens and Company’s manufacturing facilities at Warsaw. This property was formerly the Schott and Brothers Brewery (aka Union Brewery). A November 1859 newspaper account describes a visit to the brewery and entrance into “the cave, running a great distance under the bluff, where the lager is stored away and cooled for the succeeding summer’s use” (Our Heritage 19xx:15). Note the depiction of what appears to be the single underground cellar at this location in 1890. By 1890, the facility was being used for the manufacture of jellies and fruit juices.

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 56. Subsequent depictions of the Schott Brewery site, as depicted on the 1898 (left) and 1906 (right) Sanborn fire insurance maps. By 1898, Stevens and Company apparently had abandoned the facility and the majority of the industrial fabric had been allowed to fall into ruins. By 1906, the Sanborn map depicted more details than the earlier 1898 map, and indicated the presence of the “Old Cider Mill” and depicted it as “Old and Dilapidated”. Several subterranean beer caverns or cellars, reminiscent of those used as wine cellars, were associated with that industrial complex (see following images).

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 57. Foundations and collapsed cellars located at the Warsaw Brewery Site, rural Hancock County, Illinois.

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 58. Foundations and collapsed cellars located at the Warsaw Brewery Site, rural Hancock County, Illinois.

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 59. Interior views of two cellars located at the Warsaw Brewery Site, rural Hancock County, Illinois. Note the use of both brick and stone for the construction of these subterranean structures.

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Brewery

Mansion

Figure 60. View of the Kun Brewery and family mansion, as depicted on the 1867 Bird’s Eye of Springfield, Illinois (Ruger 1867).

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 61. Map illustrating location of pre-1900 subterranean cellars and above-grade buildings at the site of the Kun Brewery, Springfield, Illinois (Mansberger 1993). This middle nineteenth century brewery had an underground labyrinth of at least four large subterranean cellars for aging the beer.

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 62. Images of the beer caverns at the Kun Brewery, Springfield, Illinois (Mansberger 1993). Note the lack of overhead vents in the ceiling of the cellar.

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Figure 63. Left: Cross section details of Cavern A (top), Cavern C (middle) and Cavern C antechamber (bottom) at the Kun Brewery, Springfield, Illinois (Mansberger 1993). Right: Sectional view of the Lobehammer Brewery caverns, also located in Springfield, Illinois. Whereas the caverns at the Kun Brewery were constructed of a combination stone and brick, the cavern at the Lobehammer Brewery was constructed solely of brick. Note that these caverns were constructed solely of brick with no stone foundations.

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

BEGIN PHOTOS

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Photograph 1. Entrance to Hunziker Winery Site cellar (looking west/northwest). Eastern foundation wall of Top Works can be seen in background.

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Photograph 2. Eastern wall, illustrating location of doorway (looking west/northwest).

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Photograph 3. View of southeast corner of Wine House (looking east along south foundation wall).

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Photograph 4. Wine House foundation illustrating eastern cellar room and upper end of brick vent (looking north along eastern foundation wall).

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Photograph 5. View of interior wall, stone pad, and south exterior wall of the Wine House.

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Photograph 6. View of entranceway of cellar, looking east from inside cellar. Note the difference in the color of the stone in the arch.

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Photograph 7. View from inside the cellar, looking east from far western end of cellar.

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Photograph 8. View down the center of the cellar from entranceway, looking west.

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Photograph 9. View of western end wall of cellar illustrating blocked up doorway and overhead vent. Note the difference in the color of the stone in the arch.

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Photograph 10. View of above-ground foundation remains associated with the Hunziker Winery. The stone represents foundation walls, whereas the brick represents the top of a vent shaft.

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Photograph 11. View of vent along south wall of Wine House, looking from Wine House foundation wall down into the cellar below.

Property name: Hunziker Winery Site Illinois, County: Hancock

Photograph 12. Cellar vent at the Hunziker Winery, looking up from cellar floor.