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The Crepe Cowl Workbook

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The Crepe Cowl Workbook The Crepe Cowl heddle Loom Patterns for the Rigid- Workbook An Adventure in Weaving with Singles with Liz Gipson eaving with singles is the reason every are available are rarely the size you want. What spinner should weave and every weaver follows is more than a pattern, it is a workbook for W should spin! Commercially available creating a lovely cowl—large or small—that works yarn with high twist is hard to find. The yarns that with a wide range of handspun singles. 1 of 9 | Yarnworker | All rights reserved. © 2014 L @yarnworker C Yarnworker b yarnworker.blogspot.com yarnworker.com Cowl Specs These specs are for the yarn used in the cowl featured on the cover of the workbook. On page 6, there is a worksheet to help you determine the sett and yardage requirements for your yarn. Fiber About 4 oz of homegrown cashmere Warp Length 62" Tools Spinning wheel or spindle, a rigid-heddle Warp Ends 91 loom with at least a 10" weaving width, 10-dent rigid heddle, 1 shuttle, tapestry needle, niddy- Width In Reed 9" noddy or other skein-making device such as a swift, straight pins. EPI (Ends Per Inch) 10 Warp About 157 yd Z-spun (clockwise) yarn, PPI (Picks Per Inch) 10 30 WPI, 2,400 yd/lb, 32 degrees twist Woven Length 43" Weft About 141 yd S-spun (counter clockwise) yarn, 26 WPI, 1,800 yd/lb, 31 degrees twist Finished Size 36" × 7" Woolen or worsted could easily be renamed fuzzy or smooth. Here are two plied yarns, woolen at left and worsted at right. The worsted yarn is dense, smooth, long wearing, and creates good stitch definition. The woolen yarn is light, airy, fuzzy, and has a lot of bounce. ny spinner can create a singles yarn that The crepe effect varies depending on the fiber type, will weave up into a unique crepe fabric. draw, fiber preparation, yarn size, sett, and degree AWeaving with singles is not an exact of twist. Pages 3–5 give you a brief introduction to science, rather it is an exploration. Each new piece the ways that these factors affect your cloth and the of cloth leads you to the next. amazing possibilities of handspun. 2 of 9 | Yarnworker | All rights reserved. © 2014 L @yarnworker C Yarnworker b yarnworker.blogspot.com yarnworker.com To the uninitiated, what follows may sound like gobbledygook. If the words are messing with your mind, spin some singles, size them up, use the formula on page 7 to figure out your sett and yardage, and see what happens! Then come back and read this section again. The sample above is made with worsted singles in both the warp and It might make more sense after you get weft. The sample below was made with worsted singles in the warp more hands-on experience. and woolen singles in the weft. The effect is very different. Fiber and Draw Any fiber can create a lovely singles yarn for weaving crepe. As your spinning skills grow you will become more discerning about pairing your spinning technique, called a “draw,” with your fiber. A draw is the process of attenuating fiber and managing the twist as it enters the yarn. How we zone while still treadling and pulling backwards to manage our hands during this process is given work out any lumps and add extra twist. Spinning a host of names—short, long, and everything in from the fold is another example. It is a good between. choice for long fibers. Perhaps the most common draw is the short forward A true worsted yarn is spun draw (see page 4). It is a worsted draw that makes Fiber Preparation from combed top, which is prepared so that all an excellent choice for spinning singles. Worsted the fibers are of uniform length and are parallel means something very different to a spinner than it to one another. Yarn spun in a true worsted style does to a knitter. To a knitter, it describes the size of are smooth and hard wearing, but dense with very the yarn. To a spinner, it refers to both a yarn style little bounce. (see above) and a spinning technique. A lot of the fiber you see in the marketplace is top, Worsted spinning techniques don’t allow the twist although it will often be called “roving,” a now to enter the yarn until it has been fully attenuated. generic term that describes fiber in a rope-like The resulting yarn is smooth, dense, long wearing, preparation. Roving used to refer to carded fibers, and creates good stitch definition. but that distinction is getting lost. Woolen draws, such as long draw, don’t hold a lot In a carded preparation the fibers are not of of twist. They can be used in combination with uniform length. The fibers are jumbled and when worsted spun yarns, but the effect will be much spun allow more air into the yarn. subtler, as you can see in the samples at right. You can mix and match preparation and spinning There are draws that fall in between these two for style to get very different yarns from the same a semiworsted or semiwoolen appearance. Double fibers. Carded roving spun with a worsted draw drafting is one example, an excellent choice for produces a lovely yarn. The resulting fabric will short fibers. Here, you draw the fiber out using a have a softer look and have more bounce. It is why long draw and then pinch and hold the drafting we spinners spin! 3 of 9 | Yarnworker | All rights reserved. © 2014 L @yarnworker C Yarnworker b yarnworker.blogspot.com yarnworker.com Twist Angle and Direction How Measuring Twist much twist is debatable. Long wavy fibers need less twist than If you are spinning a solid color, short crimpy fibers. You want to spin a little contrasting fiber at the end of your bobbin so it will put enough twist into your yarn be easier to see the twist angle. to have it distort the cloth, but not so much that the yarn is ropy. For I love the iSpin Tool Kit app for so many reasons. Measuring twist is your typical medium to fine fibers one of them. To use it, select the twist over 25 degrees will give twist angle icon on the lower left. Lay the yarn on the center line you a crepe-like look. Chances and select the yarn’s twist are you are spinning singles right direction—Z (right) or S (left). now that will work. Swipe with your finger to move the angle until it lines up with your yarn’s twist. The yarn shown This cowl is so forgiving twist here is about 32.2 degrees. direction doesn’t matter that A protractor will also work. much. Technically, a right-leaning Knowing the angle to the yarn (Z) spun clockwise will hundredth of degree isn’t really affect woven cloth differently necessary, but it is fun to keep track of and see how the twist than a left-leaning yarn (S) spun angle affects the cloth. counterclockwise. Forward Drafting Hand Drafting Zone Short Forward Draw Most spinners learn how spin by mastering the worsted or short forward draw, also called the inch worm. Here is how it works: Hold the fiber supply in your hands a bit farther apart than the staple length of your fiber. Use the forward/drafting hand to pinch the fibers and gently pull them forward. This hand is acting as a dam to keep the fiber from entering the drafting zone. Your other hand should have a loose grip on the fiber supply to provide some resistance. When you have drawn out the fiber to the size you want, gently pull back with your forward hand to bring the twist into the yarn. 4 of 9 | Yarnworker | All rights reserved. © 2014 L @yarnworker C Yarnworker b yarnworker.blogspot.com yarnworker.com Yarn Size (Grist) Because rigid heddles come in Strength Sizing will add some strength to your a fixed range of sizes, you want to create a yarn yarn, but you will want to test it periodically to that falls somewhere between 8 and 32 Wraps Per be sure it will hold up under the tension of the Inch (WPI). Yarns in this range will sett loosely in loom. To do this test, pinch either end of a 4" to 6" the available sizes of rigid heddles: 5, 8, 10, 12, section of the yarn between your index finger and and their close metric equivalents. thumb of each hand. Apply steady, firm pressure as if to pull the yarn apart. If the yarn drifts or breaks, See page 6 for how to determine your sett. In it isn’t the best choice for warp. See page 9 for a general, the finer you spin your yarn, the more list of resources that will help you further explore room it will have to move around. the wonderful world of spinning singles. Sizing Your Yarn Before Sizing After Sizing To keep the yarn’s twist under control while add ingredients. Pour 4 cups of water into weaving, it is coated with a stiffener. After weaving, a blender. Place the lid on the blender and the sizing is washed away, and the restrained remove center core. energy is released. It is best if you do your Wraps Per Inch measurement before you size Run the blender on the lowest setting and your yarn. See page 6 “Determining Your Sett.” slowly add 2 tbsp xanthan gum.
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