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Vol. XXIV No. 1 MUSINGS April 16-30, 2014

G Changing skylines Madras Landmarks – An insensitivity 50 years ago everywhere

(By The Editor)

he whole story has déjà vu ment on South Bank which, Many of them are hugely promi- Twritten all over it. The according to UNESCO, poses a nent and grossly insensitive to builders’ lobby constructing grave threat to Westminster’s their immediate context and huge structures in all available world heritage status. On the appearance on the skyline. G Everest Hotel is one of the best known occupants of Jaya Mansions, a spaces… heritage under other hand, with England still “This fundamental transfor- classic art deco building constructed in the late 1930s by S.P. Jayarama Nadar, threat… the public remaining in the midst of a grim recession, mation is taking place with a Mercant and Councillor of the Corporation of Madras, to serve as a commercial insensitive… a few people lodg- this could do wonders for the shocking lack of public aware- hostel for students of the Madras Medical College. By the mid-1940s it had become commercial premises with a number of shops and establishments renting ing protests… an appeal in the economy. ness, consultation or debate. the rooms in the ground floor. Everest Lodge, as it was known, the creation of Courts of Law… judgement Not so, say the intellectuals. Planning and political systems Sundaram Iyer, took the upper floors. given in the absence of any law And some of the language they are proving inadequate to pro- Located as it was midway between Central and Egmore stations, it became a protecting skylines…In case have used sounds very familiar tect the valued qualities of Lon- very popular place of stay. There was a rooftop restaurant as well, which also you thought that was something to us fighting the same battle in don, or provide a coherent and functioned as the premises for the Muthialpet Sabha. It was here on a full moon that happened only in Chennai, Chennai: “It is shocking that positive vision for the future night that Tiger Varadachariar is said to have performed a pallavi in Raga relax, for you are in august com- such a profound change is be- skyline. The official policy is Poornachandrika. pany. London has the same ing made to a great city with so that tall buildings should be Sundaram Iyer married a well-known dancer Swarna Saraswathi problems. little public awareness or de- ‘well designed and in the right en secondes noces as the expression is, and the couple later moved to Delhi It may be the city with maxi- bate. There is also a startling place’, yet implementation of where they lived till their passing. The hotel changed hands and continues to function from the same premises mum protection for heritage lack of vision from the city’s policy is fragmented and weak. though ill-advised attempts at modernisation have robbed the facade of all vestiges and with the highest number of leaders. These towers do not “Too many of these towers of art deco. footfalls seeking out history, but answer the city’s housing needs, are of mediocre architectural An interesting aside is that Everest also ran Zoo Café, which, as the name it is no different from Madras! but respond to a bubble of in- suggests, was a restaurant at the Zoo which at the time was just behind Late last month, some of the ternational investment in Lon- (Continued on page 3) Ripon Building, barely a stone’s throw away. city’s most influential names in don residential property. A arts, academia and politics short-term financial phenom- began a campaign to protect the enon will change the city’s sky- city’s skyline which they say is line forever. Over 200 tall Of ‘official’ slums and under grave threat. This was buildings, from 20 storeys to after the Courts gave the go- much greater heights, are cur- ahead for a £600m develop- rently consented or proposed. ‘unofficial’ ones ow many slums are there body was set up following legis- Chennai – the congestion can Hin Chennai? Officially, lation. The TNSCB had under only be imagined. Periodic evic- 1219. But unofficially there are its purview only the officially tion drives are the only strategy 444 more. What is being done recognised slums, which then that the city’s administration for the residents of these slums? were 1202 in number. In 1985, has towards these slums. The Very little, apart from persistent a further 17 were added to the residents return after a while and misguided attempts to relo- list. And the tally stopped there. and the cycle continues. What cate them to the periphery of is often forgotten is that it is this the city, thereby simply shifting fringe population that provides G the problem to where the up- by A Special most of the service in the city. per-class citizenry cannot see it. Correspondent Coming to the official slums, All this and more are some of the city had one of the best pos- the highlights of a study done by What we hear now is that there sible methods of handling them. an NGO, Transparent are at least 444 more in the city Ever since the late 1800s when Chennai, in 2013. Excerpts and these do not have any form Charles Gower first mooted the from this study were published of governance, as the TNSCB idea of reconstructing slums in in The Hindu and the figures claims it can only handle the situ with better planning, access quoted here are from there. approved ones. to water and ventilation, the Slums, which were initially Some of the statistics quoted Corporation had been doing under the control of the Madras is truly frightening. As many as just that. That way, the slums Corporation, were transferred half a million people reside in continued to remain where they “With these new arrivals, you won’t be affected by the 2,500 MW power to the Tamil Nadu Slum Clear- the unofficial slums which oc- were, but they were a lot cleaner shortage in the state!” ance Board in 1971 when that cupy just 4.8 sq km of Greater (Continued on page 7) CMYK 2 MADRAS MUSINGS April 16-30, 2014 Save our heritage On Election Duty, Immediate – a call of despair hese days, you amount to certain type of vehicle – it has all the consonants correct and Tnothing if you don’t have to be closer to a bus in length, in order), which deals with our the above statement stuck on breadth and height than a car. water and sewerage, has not in the UK too your car windscreen. The Man It should also have tinted shifted its manhole covers or from Madras Musings notices glasses, though that is really elevated them or whatever it heir stones, bricks, brooks and glades ring with the sounds of that with this notice strategi- not on as per law. But then was supposed to do. And, so, Tour history. But we seem to have stopped listening. cally positioned so that all can when you go around in these the smooth concrete surface is A shocking report on England's iconic landmarks reveals that read it, you can get your uber-sized vehicles, you really marked here and there with vehicle to do anything that are above the law and so such deep craters below which the one in 12 are under threat from neglect, decay and vandalism. James Bond did with his, and trivialities make no difference. manholes lurk. Vehicles ply- English Heritage, which compiled the register of more than more. The ‘On Election Duty, Then, and only then, will you ing on these roads keep jump- 6,000 threatened sites, recently called on Britons to wake up to the Immediate (or Urgent)’ is the be searched by the OED gang. ing in and out of these depres- damage being done. current equivalent of the red And going through this ordeal sions which, in the good old beacon light that was so hated is the new ticket to high soci- tar days, were just a few inches One in five scheduled monuments, registered battlefields and by an emerging political light ety. It reminded MMM of his deep but now go down by at protected wreck sites are in danger, while one in 30 Grade 1 listed before it somewhat extin- days in Delhi when business- least half a foot. buildings are being neglected. guished itself (by which MMM men considered Income Tax And then, what about the Lord Lockhart, chairman of English Heritage, said: “Everybody alludes to the political light raids to be badges of honour. edges? The concrete is not and not the beacon light which The more, the better. spread up to the footpaths (if must live near, walk past or know of a heritage treasure at risk near is going strong). With that they exist) and quite a deep rut them. notice pasted on, no matter if now runs between the side- “We believe that our Heritage At Risk register will galvanise it is just a newspaper with the SHORT ‘N’ walks and the road proper. the nation into doing something about this before it is too late and message scrawled in red ink, Vehicles going in and out of help us save the best of the past.” you can jump traffic signals, SNAPPY residences have quite a chal- park your car anywhere, over- lenge and as for those who The register includes Victorian schools and town halls, derelict take on bridges and, above all, park along the sides (remem- railway stations, unstable remains of abbeys, eroded iron age forts still get policemen to salute MMM had to rather sheep- ber that Chennai follows a and overgrown country parks. you. ishly confess that he had not strict “No parking for visitors There is apparently a class “cars” policy) they just cannot Other at-risk sites include crumbling World War II pillboxes, been stopped and searched. hierarchy in this. With just a Whereupon the others looked get to the edge. They now sim- neglected 1960s tower blocks and battle sites threatened by hous- red beacon, you can still get by, pityingly at him and moved on. ply park on the concrete, ing. but that is just about all you MMM now has two options thereby narrowing road space Many of the threatened sites are known only to locals. But oth- can do. Having the ‘On Elec- before him to shore up his still further. So, it is chaos as ers – such as the Eleanor cross outside London's Charing Cross tion Duty (OED)’ sign means fallen prestige – he either gets a usual. station and the Civil War site of the Battle of Newbury in Berk- you have climbed to strato- large car or he goes around in Makes you want to hark spheric heights. If you have back to the days of good old shire – are world-famous. Some sites are threatened by ploughing his current one with a huge both, then chances are you stash of currency notes, hoping red earth and bullock carts, and erosion. don’t read this paper. Probably that it will be noticed by the does it not? MMM is quite Others are at risk because of neglectful owners, poor develop- someone else reads it out to OED lot. But as he has no confident that we will eventu- ment, and lack of maintenance. you and only those bits that hopes of either – a new car or ally get there, given the way we please your ears, which is very disposable wads of cash, he has are going about modernising. The report assessed England’s 30,000 Grade 1 and Grade 2 listed likely to be very little. to reconcile himself to being on When our Corporation is with buildings, all 20,000 of the most important archaeological sites and ‘OED’ has also given rise to the fringes of society. us, why worry? monuments, all 1,500 registered historic parks and gardens, 43 another caste division, though battlefields and 45 wrecks. ours is technically a casteless Tailpiece society, at least on paper. Chaos, set in concrete Top ten threatened sites MMM was made painfully he Corporation of Chen- ivilisation appears to have Birkrigg Stone Circle, Cumbria: A prehistoric circle of 31 aware of this when he was T nai is no doubt patting Ccome at last to Chennai stones between 1700 and 1400 BC overlooking Morcambe Bay. walking along with a group of itself on the back for having going by the modern conve- Also known as the Druid’s Circle, the isolated site is a frequent well-heeled citizenry. MMM embarked on concretising its nience installed by our beloved city’s beloved civic body, just target for paint-spraying vandals. had let his mind wander and he roads. The idea was originally came back to earth only when to do this only for streets and outside Express Avenue Mall. Uxbridge Lido, London: A Grade 2 listed lido built in 1935, he heard a business baron sud- thoroughfares that are not The Man from Madras Musings the only remaining 12-sided “star” swimming pool in the UK. denly say rather proudly, easily accessed by road-laying took a photo which appears Abandoned in 1998 and covered in graffiti. “Twice”. To which a mega equipment. But, as The Man alongside hopefully, provided magnate rather disdainfully re- from Madras Musings can see, the silhouetted nudity is al- Battersea Power Station: Built in the 1930s, the former coal plied, “Four times”. Where- it is now done for whichever lowed by the Chief . But who fired power station is the largest brick building in Europe. It has upon the biz baron looked stretch takes the Corporation’s will inform our citizenry that distinctive Art Deco towers. Closed in 1983, its future remains abashed and turned around to fancy. There comes a day when they need to go inside and not uncertain. MMM and asked how many. a roaring behemoth that spews behind the structure? You only need to see their Newbury, Berkshire: Site of the first Battle of Newbury in 1643 MMM was stumped for an an- concrete arrives in your neigh- swer. For one, he did not know bourhood and settles down for behaviour when it comes to when Roundheads prevented a large Parliamentary army from what was being talked about. a long stay. The road is cut off any tree, pillar or post. marching on London. Under threat from housing developers. Were they enumerating daily to all traffic and the concrete – MMM Eleanor Cross, Charing Cross, London: The crumbling bowel movements or divorces pours forth. It is al- Victorian cross stands outside the busy London railway station. or coronary bypasses he won- lowed to set and Fragments of stone are falling off and it is desperate need of repair dered. His confusion only in- then the crew van- and restoration. creased when another money- ishes, behemoth and bags interjected saying, “Three all. Bowes Railway Incline and Springwell Colliery, Gateshead: and always by the Gemini But, as is usual Part of the 1826 Stephenson rope-hauled colliery railway – one of Flyover”. Clarity came when with anything that the world’s first modern railways – it is suffering from severe he added that a thorough our Corporation erosion, storm damage and vandalism. search was made but nothing does, there is no was found. concept of planning Lowther Castle, Cumbria: Empty since 1942, the once They were it transpired aforehand or antici- spectacular 19th Century Gothic castle – is now a derelict shell counting the number of times pating the conse- surrounded by 3,000 acres of grounds. their vehicles had been quences of any ac- Snodhill Castle, Herefordshire: Dating from the 11th Century, stopped by the OED men and tion. Thus, houses searched for cash, without that were all along the castle is a victim of extreme neglect. The castle has been which, so MMM has been an inch or two above ‘effectively abandoned’ by its owners and parts are in danger of given to understand, political the road, find them- collapse. parties feel the poll process is selves a foot below Boston Manor House, Hounslow: Three-storey Jacobean incomplete. Apparently, the overnight, thanks to manor built in 1623 and surrounded by parkland, parts are in dan- OED brigade also feels the thickness of the con- ger of toppling over and are being propped up by scaffolding. same way and hence stops all crete and there is and sundry by the wayside and nothing anyone can Tynemouth Station: Built in 1882, it is one of the North East’s counts their cash. Hang on, do about it. Sec- most impressive Victorian stations. But parts of the station are now did MMM say all and sundry? ondly, the unused and its decorative iron canopies are rusting. – (from The Well, he was mistaken. To be CMWSSB (MMM Daily Mail, London). searched you need to have a assumes he has got April 16-30, 2014 MADRAS MUSINGS 3

An embodiment of total illegality his refers to the report ‘Legalising the illegal measures we are unable to issue fire license. T– will Court ruling stop it? (MM, March Instead we decided to inspect all the buildings 1st). which are in violation of fire and life safety norms T’ Nagar is an area which is the embodiment and to issue show cause notices, to implement the Big-hearted hotelier tion. Seetharama Rao emerged of total illegality due to almost every commer- fire and life safety system. In the absence of strin- as a Hotelier with a big Heart. cial building violating safety norms as well as gent legal provisions, the traders/ builders are not our story on K. Seetharama Those who came for valua- building and development control rules, while spending few lakhs rupees for creating fire safe en- Rao, (MM, April 1st) re- Y tion would not forget his hospi- the CMDA and the Corporation turn a blind vironment in T’ Nagar and in particular minded of an incident that hap- eye to the situation. The area which used to be Ranganathan Street... tality and generosity. The pened in April, 1968. That was a peaceful residential neighbourhood has been “To partially address some of the problems in managerial skill of Seetharama the year Central Valuation of converted into a commercial hub with indis- most of the commercial buildings, we have taken Rao was evident throughout. It Public Examination Answer- criminate development arising out of an unholy various measures to prevent fire and minimise the was a unique experience that I scripts was introduced. I was a nexus between government officials, law en- response time in this congested commercial hub. have never forgotten. forcement agencies and the commercial estab- “Some of them are: Chief Examiner in English I Pa- lishments. This has turned the entire residen- – New fire station was opened at T.Nagar on per and the center was the S.S. Rajagopalan tial neighbourhood into a concrete jungle mak- 4.12.2010 with one fire unit and 17 fire newly constructed office of the 30 Kamarajar Street ing life miserable for the residents in the area. fighters. Commissioner for Government Chennai 600093 The Association has been making attempts – Show cause notices were issued (and), Fire Examination. A separate Direc- Evoking memories to collect information on the extent of the viola- Audit conducted regularly to create safety torate came later. The canteen tions and has found that virtually none of the awareness among the shop owners. in the D.P.I.’s Complex could our picture and write up of commercial buildings comply with building – Trader Association/shop owners meetings were not provide meals for over 1000 Ythe Modern Café (MM, rules, fire safety regulations, etc. conducted on fire safety aspects... teachers assembled for valua- April 1) evokes some old With the rules given a go-by, the inevitable “With no response to the show-cause notices, tion. Many went without food memories. result has been a shortage of water and electric- the Tamil Nadu Fire and Rescue Department has As children in the early ity, choked roads, and ecological and environ- no power to seal the buildings of those defying the and a rebellion was imminent. mental imbalances causing serious hardship to rules. Only the Chennai Corporation and CMDA The officers of the Department 1950s, we were taught to swim every resident of the area. can take action to seal or demolish buildings in did not know how to meet the in the Marina swimming pool. With observance of fire service regulations cases of violations...” problem. At 8 p.m, the teachers This was a sea water pool. in the breach and without adequate setbacks, The other result of this indiscriminate devel- gathered to announce boycott Afterwards, we would be taken God forbid if a fire accident takes place. If this opment is the high pollution levels and the air of valuation. for a snack (or lunch, if we were is the situations with respect to Usman Road it pollution levels, which are much higher than the S. Narasimha Iyengar, re- lucky) to the adjoining Marina is far worse in Ranganathan Street due to high normal permitted levels. nowned Headmaster of M.Ct. Canteen as it was called. pedestrian movement. If a fire accident happens As regards compliance with building Muthiah Chettiar High School, This was run for a time by on Ranganathan Street, the casualties would rules,information obtained by the Association one Pattabhirama Reddy and run into hundreds or thousands, as there is no under the Right to Information Act shows ‘NIL’ appealed to the teachers to give way for an ambulance or a fire engine to get in compliance and no approvals in the case of most him just 12 hours to make alter- his beautiful wife Snehalatha, or get out. And in the event of a fire accident of the multi-storey buildings. nate arrangements. He took me who were good friends of during a festival season, the tragedy in terms of In a nutshell, the entire business in the with him to knock at the doors of my parents. They subse- human lives lost would be phenomenal. T’ Nagar shopping hub is being carried on by all K. Seetharama Rao at 10 p.m. quently were active in Ram Information on the adequacy of fire safety the commercial establishments violating every With folded hands he requested Manohar Lohia’s Praja Social- norms was obtained by the Association under norm. This has converted a residential area into Rao to help them tackle the situ- ist Party. the Right to Information Act in July 2011 and a a commercial jungle. ation. Rao was deeply touched She was a highly talented part of the response from the Director of Fire The Association has gone to the courts and and said, “You are a guru. You lady and an accomplished Safety is reproduced below: obtained orders, but these are never complied should not beg but order. Every- flamenco dancer. During Indira with. Representations to the custodians of the “As per the safety audits conducted by this de- law have not been taken note of. thing will be done.” Gandhi’s emergency she was partment in Ranganathan Street, 90 per cent of The next day, in the open imprisoned and this took its toll the buildings have violated the building norms, in- T’ Nagar Residents’ Welfare Association grounds, a makeshift kitchen on her health. cluding fire safety. As these matters are subjudice 30, Rangan Street was established and the veran- They had a daughter and son and further because of lack of fire and life safety T’ Nagar, Chennai 600 017 dahs were converted into dining – Nandana and Konarak. halls. A variety of snacks, meals Ramu Dorasami Marina Mayhem salivating at the prospect of the Why berthing facilities for and drinks were made available. Shanthinamara, Glasbolie Government largesse this will yachts when thousands of poor t was disturbing to read that No person needed more than Ballintra, Co. Donegal. Ireland throw up. In Chennai, people’s pregnant women do not have the authorities plan to con- two minutes to get what he I outcry usually ends up in the decent birthing facilities in our How long? vert the already beleaguered wanted. Masala Dosas of which wilderness. But for a change, Government hospitals? Marina into a Baywatch sce- Modern Cafe was famous were his refers to the article ‘An can it get the authorities to put nario (MM, March 16th) available hot and crisp from 8 Indo-Ceylon dream of the a stop to the proposed malafide C.G. Prasad T minuse the bikini-clad babes. a.m to 8 p.m. The lunch was 20th Century (MM, March 1st) extravaganza and leave the 9, C.S. Mudali Street Many contractors and their po- excellent. When he learnt that where Pamban island is de- Marina’s sands severely alone. Kondithope the daily allowance paid to the scribed as 70 to 80 km long. I litical patrons will doubtless be Chennai 600 079 teachers was just Rs 4/-, he in- wonder if that is correct. The structed that the full lunch, railway time table shows the dis- morning coffee, evening coffee tance from Pamban to Rames- AN INSENSITIVITY EVERYWHERE with some snacks-bonda, bajji waram as 11 km. Comparing the Neo Classical. Much of that or vadai-be charged only Rs 2/- the distances on the satellite (Continued from page 1) Road), which still retains much still remains but you can see much much below the rates in image roughly, the length of the of its grandeur. There too, we quality and badly sited. Many what it is likely to become by his hotel. Other items were also island can at the most be about have seen threats to the DGP show little consideration for noticing what is coming up here priced lower. 30 to 40 km, if at all. Headquarters, Queen Mary’s When we wanted to thank scale and setting, make minimal and there on that road. NSC campus, the Lady Willingdon contribution to public realm or Bose Road and the Esplanade him at a function on the last K. Balakesari Institute and Wenlock Park. street-level experience and are was once home to an unbroken day, he said it was he who 3/1, Kesari Kuteeram And let us not forget, this is should be thankful for he got designed without concern for Art Deco facade as was the without bringing in residential 27, Westcott Road their cumulative effect and im- business of over Rs 50000/- and Royapettah stretch between Egmore and areas such as Gandhi Nagar, T he refused to go for the func- Chennai 600 014 pact. Their generic designs, Central Stations. Much of that Nagar and Mandaveli which typical of fast-growing cities has vanished or has been irre- have completely lost their sky- around the world, threaten trievably transformed thanks to lines. London’s unique character and MADRAS MUSINGS ON THE WEB the use of Al-Cu bond tiles and Cities such as Barcelona, Mi- identity.” other such quick fixes. The ami, Shanghai and even our To reach out to as many readers as possible who share our You just need to replace greatest tragedy has been own Mumbai have made much keen interest in Madras that is Chennai, and in response to London with Chennai in the Mount Road, which from a of their skylines and converted above text and you could use it requests from many well-wishers – especially from outside great and fashionable down- them into tourist hotspots. Why here. town has become a long stretch Chennai and abroad who receive their postal copies very late can this not be done in Chennai The city, by which we mean of multi-storeyed buildings with as well? Perhaps it is time for the – for an online edition. Madras Musings is now on the web at Chennai, has already lost much no harmony in design any- intellectual community to come www. madrasmusings.com of what was once a great sky- where. If at all there is still a sole together. Would Madras Week THE EDITOR line. Rajaji Salai was once home survivor, it could be the 2014 be a good time for this? to Indo-Saracenic, Gothic and Kamaraj Salai (South Beach 4 MADRAS MUSINGS March 16-31, 2014 March 16-31, 2014 MADRAS MUSINGS 5 Drawing with Mano –3 The multi-faceted Seeing scenes in Edward Balfour dward Balfour sparkles in the try of the Madras and Bombay General, heading the Madras Escience history of colonial armies, then as the staff surgeon medical department, in 1871, a * * * Madras as a multi-talented per- in Ahmadnagar and Bellary in post he held until his retirement Yaanai Malai (Elephant Hill) is a dominant landmark in the son. He came to India to join the the Ceded Districts, he became a in 1876. During this period, he perspective northeastern outskirts of Madurai. When approached from Madurai, army medical service. He later full surgeon in 1852. In 1850, he drew the attention of the Gov- this monolith has a certain resemblance to a seated elephant. Dotted featured prominently in various was the acting government agent ernment of Madras in 1872 to n the late 1970s, my daughter Suja and I enjoyed the hospitality of drawing follows the laws of perspective and eliminates the stay with starkly beautiful palmyra trees, this part of rural Madurai once academic and administrative at Chepauk and the paymaster of the need for qualified women Ithe Appasamys at Kodaikanal each summer. Paul, their son, and I rods. had a character of its own. The paddy fields nourished by monsoon arenas of the Madras Presidency: the Carnatic stipends. doctors, as local social customs would go on mini on-the-spot sketching expeditions. In 1978, early * * * rains receive supplementary supplies of water from large, squarish, from an army-surgeon to a diplo- During his early years of ser- restricted women from receiving one morning, each of us did a sketch of the boat house with its reflec- In early 1958, when I was 21, I moved from the ancient temple irrigation yeatram wells. A yeatram has a long pole with a rope and a mat, from chief administrator of vice, Balfour learnt different treatment from male doctors and tion in the very still waters of the lake. That evening, we reflected town of Madurai to live in the relatively modern metropolis of Ma- large bucket at one end and a counterpoise at the other with a the Madras Medical Department Indian languages and achieved attending public hospitals. The upon this subject. Paul said that the reflection of the boat house was dras. At that time, though I was not very religious, I liked attending fulcrum in between. Yeatram, which have all but vanished from the to contributing significantly to- mastery over Hindustani and Madras Medical College opened identical to the real one, only it was upside down. I told Paul that services at the Wesley Church at Egmore with a new-found British rural scene today, were extensively used during my boyhood to draw wards the development of sci- Persian. Balfour translated and its gates to women in 1875. there were many subtle differences between an object and its reflec- friend, Ken Wade, or my cousin, Damayanthi. I enjoyed the majestic volumes of water from these wells. ence. In whatever work he un- published in 1851 Gul-dastah-i- Balfour’s service in this context tion in a piece of artwork. I shared with him my own ‘knowledge’ and sounds of the pipe organ there, played by a cousin, Ebby, and the In the early 1950s, on a cool October noon, a school friend and I dertook, he achieved the best Sukhan (the Bunch of Roses), a was commemorated with the es- then went on to talk about other aspects relating to perspective and harmonious singing by the choir and the congregation. I enjoyed even took a cross-country trek towards Yaanai Malai. Suddenly, an idyllic outcomes. His profundity in lithograph of a series of extracts tablishment of the ‘Balfour Me- architecture. Paul, who was at the time a student of the School of the sermons by the learned British pastor. Above all, I enjoyed the rural scene presented itself. We saw water-logged fields being meticulously documenting his from Persian and Hindustani po- morial Gold Medal’ in 1891 at Edward Balfour. Architecture of Madras University, could grasp immediately what I ambience and the elegant beauty of the brick-and-mortar church. ploughed. There was a large square yeatram well from which a wiry observations on diverse aspects ets. He established the Moham- the University of Madras with was trying to convey. It was he who first suggested that I should record Four decades later, I decided to create an ink drawing of this edifice. old man was drawing water. Yaanai Malai formed an imposing, peace- of science, be it medicine, biol- medan Public Library in Madras, the singular object of encourag- Wellington, the Nilgiris. He my learning processes and insights into perspective and publish the I chose what I considered the best angle to capture the elegance of ful backdrop. Monsoon clouds began to gather, darkening the upper ogy, agriculture and forestry, and an institution that included ing women studying medicine. seems to have been seriously in- collected material as a book. I talked about this with Mahema, who the church in ink. Unfortunately, however, at the chosen angle, I sky and softening the light falling on the austere scene. The land- even astronomy, is stunning. books in English and the Orien- Balfour returned to Britain in terested in the epidemiology of also felt that a book from my perspective was an excellent idea. It has was too close to the building. I could not move backwards because scape was placid but the sky was in turmoil and yet there was perfect This article remembers the con- tal languages. This service to 1876, after 42 years of residence cholera which is supported by taken me three decades to eventually do what my cousin suggested the parsonage was at my back. Were I to capture a two dimensional harmony between land and sky. The sky became darker and light tributions of this Scot to Indian Muslim literature and culture in and service in India. He died in two of his publications, the Sta- and my wife recommended. image of the church at such close quarters, a certain level of distor- played games on the hill. science. But there were so many India, was gratefully acknowl- Hyde Park, London on Decem- tistics of Cholera published at I reproduce here, my on-the-spot ink drawing of the boat house at tion would have crept in. I used a simple but effective method to Over the years, many of those paddy fields, though not all, have other facets to Balfour, that each edged on his departure, in a Per- ber 8, 1889, at the age of 76. He Madras. In 1850, he published Kodaikanal. minimise the proximity problem thus: vanished forever. Houses have cropped up where the paddy fields could do with a separate article. sian address presented to him by had married the eldest daughter Remarks on the causes for which I used the northeast corner wall junction of the church as the were. But I carry an image of what I once saw in my head and in my During his stay in Madras, the leading Muslim citizens of of Dr. Gilchrist of Madras on native soldiers of the Madras Army reference vertical line (Z axis). I moved the vanishing points farther heart. Balfour supported granting Inde- Madras. For further notes on this May 24, 1852. His portrait was who were discharged the Service in for both X and Y axes. In the drawing below, point O on X axis is the As I grew older, my eyesight kept diminishing. In 1986, when I pendence to India, although it the five years from 1842-3 to true vanishing point, while point P is the chosen one. Similarly, Q is could not clearly see such scenes, I decided to capture on paper, in materialised only in 1947, long 1846-7. the real vanishing point while R is the chosen one on the Y axis. I ink, the magic of the scene that I had witnessed more than three after his return to Britain. In high G ‘Pages from History’ by DR. A. RAMAN kept all the relevant vertical lines where they really belonged. The decades earlier. I could not, of course, reproduce the scene exactly as likelihood, his mother’s brother ([email protected]) Economic biology horizontal lines of the real building that were at higher levels would it was but I did my best to capture the mood and the moment of Joseph Hume (1777-1855), a In 1849 he received the have had steep inclines, had I used the authentic vanishing points O beauty that was etched in my memory. So I diligently began an as- medical doctor and a radical thanks of the Madras Govern- and Q. But as I used the ‘doctored’ points P and R which are farther, sembly job. I remember a distant banyan tree and a few typical rural British parliamentarian, influ- subject, refer to S. Anwar, placed in the Government Cen- ment for his report ‘On the Influ- the incline of the top lines are far less steep, thus softening the distor- houses of the time. I included these in the drawing. There were scat- enced Balfour in this direction. Madras Musings (XIX, 2010). tral Museum, which is the Ma- ence exercised by Trees on the Cli- tion due to the closeness. tered rows of palmyra trees and a few thorn trees with tiny leaves. I Allan Octavian Hume (1829- Between 1858 and 1861, dras Museum of today. Balfour mate of a Country and by publish- included many palmyra trees and one thorn tree in my drawing. 1912), son of Joseph Hume, who Balfour was commissioned to in- was a Fellow of the University of ing in Madras a work on The tim- A yeatram well, of course, had a significant place in my artwork. I too trained as a medical doctor vestigate the debts of the Nawab Madras, and a corresponding ber trees, timber, and fancy woods, integrated two farmers ploughing the wet fields. Yaanai Malai, the but served as an Indian Civil Ser- of the Carnatic (earlier, the member of the Imperial Royal as also the Forests of India and of dominant central aspect captured in ink, was set serenely where it vant, who was also an avid orni- Nawab of Arcot), which were Geological Institute of Vienna. Eastern and Southern Asia,’ which should be. The monsoon clouds which enhanced the beauty of the thologist and horticulturist, was owed to many of the British in * * * ran a second edition in 1862, and scene many years ago, enhance the beauty of my later artwork. his first cousin. Many readers will Madras. Some notations on this Balfour’s contributions a third in 1870. * * * This is one of my drawings that has been especially appreciated by recall that Allan Hume was a assignment refer to Balfour as a Among the finest entities still existent within the Thirumalai many friends. Some talked about the stunning realism of the draw- founding pillar of the Indian ‘political agent’ at the Court of to Indian science At Govt. Central Museum Nayak Mahal in Madurai is the Nataka Sala. The squat pillars support ing. I could not have appreciated this piece of artwork without my National Congress in 1885, the the Nawab. For a short period, he Balfour displayed a variety of In 1850 an offer made by a complex of foliated arches, with ornate entablatures, high corridors, deep grasp of perspective. When I assembled this drawing, three as- concept of which was conceived officiated as the Assistant Assay- interests in science. He came to Balfour to the Government to and windows topped by an elaborate arched roof 70 feet above the * * * pects came into play: Firstly, the rich memory of the rare visual gift at a private meeting held during master at the Madras mint, and India as a medical doctor. His establish a museum in Madras floor. When my friend Suresh Krishna became the Sheriff of Madras in that I enjoyed, secondly, whatever artistic skills have been granted to a Theosophists’ convention in the Madras Examiner of Medical adeptness in writing on a range was accepted, and the Govern- From the mid-1980s, I entertained the idea of capturing a view of 1990/91, he initiated some renovation of the impressive Victoria Pub- me and, finally, the effective application of the deep knowledge on Madras in December 1884. Accounts in the Army Finance of subjects is astonishing. He ment Central Museum came up this hall in ink. But I felt intimidated. The structure of the hall was lic Hall (VPH), a heritage building which was in a state of neglect. perspective that I had accumulated. * * * Department of India. He joined wrote over 30 major publication with Balfour as its ‘superinten- complex, my eyesight was poor even at the time, and the level of At this time, I decided to make a set of drawing, featuring this noble * * * Edward Balfour, who retired the administrative grade of the on Astronomy, Biology, Clima- dent’, with no remuneration, till illumination within was low. However, in 2002, when Mahema saw edifice. Mahema grew up in Madras. From her early girlhood she was fond as the Surgeon-General of the Madras medical staff in 1862. He tology and Forestry, Geology, 1859. While holding this ap- the hall from her wheelchair, she felt strongly that inclusion of a draw- One of the views that I chose for an ink drawing posed the same of jasmine. By the time she was a student at Stella Maris College, she Madras Presidency, was born the was the Deputy Inspector-Gen- Medicine and Public Health, and pointment, he issued, besides ing of this hall would enrich My Madurai, the book I was working on problem as that of Wesley Church – only, in this case, the situation realised that gundu malligai (globular jasmine) from Madurai was very second son of George Balfour eral of Hospitals during 1862- Museology, not to mention work several catalogues and general at the time. So, I visited this hall many times and pored over photo- was worse, as V.H.P was far larger and taller. In the very angular special indeed. As my bride, she wore a tightly knit large strand of and Susan Hume in Montrose, 1870. During this period he also he did in Persian, between 1845 reports on the work of the mu- graphs taken especially for me, from different angles by Jayantha from view, at close quarters the vanishing point is relatively close. The globular jasmine from Madurai in her hair. A few months after our Forfarshire, Scotland, on Sep- served as the Deputy Surgeon- and 1863. In this article, I refer seum, several publications relat- Aravind Eye Hospital. Those were to help me three-dimensionally roof line would have been rather steep, its left end becoming marriage, we visited Madurai. She wished to see a jasmine garden in tember 6, 1813. He received his General in Burma, the Straits to some of his major works and ing to special branches of scien- ‘grasp’ the structure. I chose what I thought was the best angle for my dominant, making the tall, tile-roofed tower appear less significant. rural Madurai, which we did. She could relate very well to the jas- early education at the Montrose Settlements, and the Andamans, treatises, for want of space and tific study. These included a artwork. Jayanth carefully made dark ink lines on a ‘paper enlarge- In order to minimise this unsatisfactory visual aspect posed by a ‘true’ mine pickers, who gifted her a bunch of freshly plucked jasmine which Academy. He qualified for the li- twice in the Ceded Districts, time. Classified list of the Mollusca (Ma- perspective drawing, I planned with impunity a carefully calculated she strung together and wore in her hair. twice in the Mysore division, and dras, 1855), a Report on the iron ment’ of the chosen photograph. This enabled me to see the struc- centiate of the Edinburgh Royal Public health & medicine ture. I extended the angular lines to determine the vanishing point. error in its perspective. I divided the building into three blocks. I Later in life, every time friends came from Madurai to Madras, College of Surgeons (L.R.C.S. for four years with the Hyde- ores: the manufacture of iron and To my utter astonishment, the lines did NOT converge to a single allowed the first, right side block with the tower, to retain its natural Mahema’s only request was that they bring her a strand of Madurai [E.]). Motivated British youth rabad subsidiary force and In 1845 Balfour published the steel, and the Coals of the Madras point. Besides, the repeating patterns were not in alignment. The vanishing point (A), moved the vanishing point of the middle block jasmine. So, when I worked on My Madurai, I naturally decided to enrolled in medical training early Hyderabad contingent. While Statistical data for forming troops Presidency (Madras, 1855), and reason for this anomaly suddenly flashed across my mind. a bit farther (B), and that of the third block (left) still farther (C). On include an ink drawing on a jasmine garden in rural Madurai though in their lives, therefore it is not displaying an enormous level of and maintaining them in health in Remarks on the gutta percha of If the hall is still standing today, it is perhaps largely because of the account of this, my drawing had three discrete vanishing points in- this was going to be a challenging piece to create. surprising that Balfour qualified administrative acumen in these different climates and localities Southern India (Madras, 1855). vision of one man, Napier, the Governor of Madras in the latter part stead of a single one. By this, the tower maintained its integrity and One early morning in 2003, Chitra of Aravind Eye Hospital and a for his L.R.C.S. (E.) at 20. roles, he continued to sustain his (Madras) and the Observations He also wrote a prefatory de- of the 19th Century. He provided the impetus, skilled man-power dominance, while the roof at the left end was kept under control. horticulturalist took me to a jasmine garden. We studied the bushes, Balfour arrived in India and interest in science and in the pro- on the means of preserving the scription of the districts dealt and the funds for extensive renovation work, which in turn was ex- Using this drawing – like many other drawings – Mahema designed the arrangement of the leaves, the hardy straight stems, the cluster of entered the medical department motion of science. One dazzling health of troops by selecting healthy with in Barometrical Survey of In- ecuted under the leadership of Blackburne, the then Collector of a greeting card, with a relevant text briefly describing the history of buds and blossoms. We spoke to the jasmine pickers too. I made of the Indian army in 1834. He example is the establishment of localities for their cantonments dia issued in 1853 under the Madurai. Due to the weight of the arched roof, the ornate walls above the hall. These cards would have been seen by many thousands. That rough sketches and took photographs. was commissioned as an assistant the Madras Museum in 1851, the (London), which brought him editorship of a committee, of the supporting pillars began inching irregularly outwards. In order to this drawing had a ‘planted error’ in it was obvious to none. On the One could see jasmine buds in nearby bushes which hid much of surgeon in June 1836. After serv- Madras Zoo in 1855, and Mysore into prominence as an authority which Balfour was chairman, and arrest the walls from moving further, horizontal iron stay rods were other hand, had I created the drawing with a single vanishing point, the buds in the bushes that were beyond. Therefore I chose the hori- ing as a medical officer with the Museum in 1866 through his on public health. These two pub- he published Localities of India periodically provided. From the point of view of perspective, the hall as I should have, then, perhaps, people might have thought there was zon line at a higher level which, in turn, enabled me to ‘expose’ the European and native artillery, committed efforts. lications were key drivers in es- exempt from cholera. as a result continues to have imperceptible imperfections. But my something not quite right about the piece! (Continued on page 7) the native cavalry, and the infan- Balfour became the Surgeon tablishing the military hospital at (Continued on page 7) 6 MADRAS MUSINGS April 16-30, 2014 The Principal (Current Affairs questions are from the period March 16th to 31th. Questions 11 to 20 pertain to Chennai and Tamil Nadu.) 1. On March 17th-18th, which from the Punjab new Republic came into being after Visharda Hoon in retirement months of civil war and subsequent ust being nostalgic is one interpreter. To get into the visory board member for social secession from the world’s largest Jthing. Reminiscing about know of things, the Hoons were sciences in NCERT, New country? your life and weaving events regular spectators at the Delhi, and Mother Teresa 2. Prince Muqrin bin Abdulaziz Al taken from diary jottings and Carnatic music and Bharata Women’s University and as an Saud was recently confirmed as sec- ond-in-line to the throne of which publishing a book is quite an- Natyam concerts held on the honorary correspondent of Asian country? other. Visharda Hoon’s Lahore open-air stage in Hotel Wood- Adarsh Schools for ten years 3. According to a study by Univer- to Chennai, a journey called life is lands near their house. from 1986. sity of Vienna scientists, which ma- in the latter bracket. N. Vai- Mrs. Hoon started her long Her pen portrait of life in rine predatory creature is, techni- deeswaran, a colleague of the career in education in the Lahore provides a wealth of de- cally, half-plant and half-animal? author, infers in his foreword South at the Children’s Garden tail about the pre-Indepen- 4. Which Indian sports-based com- that anybody who is somebody, School as an observer. Being at dence British Raj, her ancestral munity project won the Laureus and not necessarily the high the “right place at the right home built in 12 canals (1.5 Sport for Good Award on March and mighty, can write their time,” Mrs. Hoon, after a Mas- acres), growing up in a Manglik 26th? biographies. This sets the tone ters in Psychology, was selected family, her school and college 5. According to a recent WHO re- for this hardbound book which as the founder principal of the education, the 1946 summer port, which is the ‘the biggest envi- ronmental health problem’ now? includes black & white and Punjab Association’s Adarsh meetings at the hill station of 6. Which very popular sitcom, colour pictures. A recent pic- Vidyalaya inaugurated on July Visharda Hoon as Founder – Murree in Rawalpindi District about Ted Mosby and his Manhat- ture of the author in the front 11, 1954. The school was estab- Principal of Adarsh Vidyalaya with Khan Abdul Gaffar Khan, tan friends, had its final episode on inside jacket sleeve of the book lished in a house set in about who wrote God is Love in her March 31st? reveals a woman who doesn’t seven or eight grounds in Peter’s The author joined the autograph book, Pt. Nehru, 7. Where in Russia did Chennai’s show her 87 years. Road, Royapettah. The school Kendra Vidyalaya Sanghatan in who wrote her a thank you note Viswanathan Anand win the Can- Written by hand beginning was a natural choice for 1965 and, like history repeating from Srinagar for her cash do- didates Tournament to become eli- in 2010, the author portrays Punjabi, Marwari, Gujarati and itself, took over as Principal of nation, and Jai Prakash gible to challenge Magnus Carlsen herself as a revolutionary stu- Hindi speaking children. In the fledgling Adarsh Kendriya Narayan, listening to leaders for the World chess crown in No- dent in pre-partition Lahore, 1957, Mrs. Hoon took a year off Vidyalaya. The Punjab Associa- like Subhas Chandra Bose and vember this year? wife and mother, teacher- to study for a Bachelor’s course tion had been instrumental in Maulana Azad at Bradlaw Hall, 8. Japan’s Shigeru Ban has been awarded the ‘Nobel Prize of archi- administrator in Madras be- in Teaching at Lady Willingdon starting this school too. It was Lahore, seeing the movie tecture’ for his unique approach in tween 1954 and 1986, a social College in Triplicane. Among initially managed out of Adarsh Sikandar eight times, hearing of using materials like paper tubes and worker and a philosopher. Mrs. the many incidents she recalls, Vidyalaya itself, then moved to the announcement of Partition bamboo. Name the honour. Hoon’s life in Madras runs con- there is one about how she and Royapettah High Road and in in June, descriptions of the 9. What is special about the currently with the Punjabi com- her friends, pretending to be re- July 1968 to Gill Nagar. Mrs. communal outrage, ‘Kafilas’, weapon ‘Nirbheek’ launched re- munity putting down roots in porters, walked past the watch- Hoon was fully involved in the the massive caravans of people cently? the city. “Almost 63 years have man into the Travancore Sis- construction of the new school on foot moving from either sides 10. In which country’s education passed since I left Model Town, ters’ house. But their con- buildings in a developing local- of the border, fleeing to Dehra curriculum was Tamil, along with Lahore, in 1947…” begins Mrs. sciences pricked, and they ity. After five years at K.V. Gill Dun, celebrating Independence four more Indian languages, rein- Hoon, a semi-retired Chennai there, moving to G.B. Road, stated as official subjects in State- run schools after a gap of 20 years? Gill Nagar resident today, and Delhi, and living as refugees al- G by T.K. Srinivasa Chari * * * ends her story of 430 pages say- beit with the self-reliant pride of ing, “…As I sit in the veranda the Punjabis, her wedding in 11. Name the author of Kaviri Mainthan, the sequel to Kalki’s ac- and listen to the bhajans that my blurted out the truth. The Nagar, she was transferred to January 1948, the assassination claimed Ponniyin Selvan. grandson Aditya has loaded sportive Ragini and Padmini the school in the Air Force Sta- of Mahatma Gandhi on the 12. Name the IPS officer who has into my i-pod for my 85th birth- not only briefed the teacher tion, Tambaram, a commute of same day, less than a couple of been appointed by the Election day, I think life has been good, I trainees about their just-con- 30 km, by cycle rickshaw and hours later, and writing her Commission to oversee election could not ask for more.” cluded tour abroad, but also EMU trains. Her next posting Master’s exam while expecting work in Tamil Nadu. Providing an outsider’s view served the girls coffee. was as Principal of KV IIT her first child. 13. The Ministry of Shipping has, about Madras, Mrs. Hoon In 1965, the author’s love for which included a primary Here is a book that tells not ...... little regard to environmen- writes, “We had heard many Geography prompted her to get tal concerns, decided to develop school in the C.L.R.I. Campus. only her story, but recounts the stories about Madras from my a P.G. Diploma in the subject This was followed by a three- life and events that surrounded which place near Pulicat, as a port cousin, whose husband was an and shipbuilding centre spread over from the Madras University. Till year sojourn at the KV in her over eight decades. Few 5000 acres? Air Force officer, and posted in today, Mrs. Hoon’s old students Kathmandu. She then returned educationists have had the 14. Name the author of Saguna: A Madras in the 1940s. She told remember her more as a Geogra- to KV A.F.S., Tambaram, and record she has. But at the end Story of Native Christian Life: She us that the people of Madras phy teacher than as a principal. KV C.L.R.I. After two decades, of it all, she is best remembered is considered the first Indian were simple and walked bare- With colleagues like Geography she retired as Education Officer for her contributions to the woman novelist. foot, that their food and cus- teachers M.P. Rajagopal of of the KV Sanghatan, South. Punjabis settling in Madras and 15. Which bustling area, named af- toms were strange. She said it M.Ct.M. School and Dr. Mrs. Hoon also served as an ad- to Geography. ter the practitioners of a certain art/ was like going to ‘Kala Pani’ Irawathy of Queen Mary’s Col- profession, is considered the first (exile in Andamans)… she de- lege, she helped to start the As- planned colony within the bounds scribed the sea and liked the sociation of Geography Teach- of Madras? openness of the place. I remem- ers of India which conducted pe- 16. Which walkway in Fort St. CHENNAI HERITAGE bered what she used to tell us riodical conferences and work- George is also known as ‘Snob’s Al- No. 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott Road, Royapettah, Chennai 600 014 ley’? and was a little apprehensive. shops for teachers, drafted the She said older women wore nine 17. Fill in the missing names in the subject syllabi and made the I am already on your mailing list (Mailing List No...... ) / name for this park in the metropo- yard sarees and young girls half topic more interesting for stu- I have just seen Madras Musings and would like to receive it hereafter. sarees.” To this city there came lis: Desodharaka Kasinadhuni dents through visual presenta- G I/We enclose cheque/demand draft/money order for Rs. 100 ______Pantulu Park. by train in 1953 Mrs. Hoon, her tions and conducted off field (Rupees One hundred) payable to CHENNAI HERITAGE, 18. Which legendary English husband Ranjit, their three trips, talent tests and quizzes. MADRAS, as subscription to Madras Musings for the year woman was the moving force be- children Vinoo, Vineeta, and Fittingly, as a Geography 2014-15. hind Madras’s efforts to get a drain- Varuna, and their major-domo teacher, Mrs. Hoon narrates her G As token of my support for the causes of heritage, environment age system in the second half of the Munshi. They settled into a experiences travelling all over 19th Century? and a better city that Madras Musings espouses, I send Chennai bungalow on Bishop Waller’s India, then in the USA as a Heritage an additional Rs...... 19. If R. P. Sethu Pillai was the first Avenue, near Edward Elliot’s recipient in 1954 and Joe D’Cruz Fulbright scholar to study school (Rupees ...... ) Please keep/put me the latest, what honour am I talk- Road. The monthly rent for the administration, and globe-trot- on your mailing list. ing about? single-storeyed dwelling with a ting to China, Japan, U.S.S.R., Name : ...... 20. What was the ‘Gold Leaf large terrace, where the family Europe, and the Scandinavian Address: ...... Agreement’ dated April 1620, now slept during the summer, was countries as a member of the ...... in the possession of the National Rs. 150. A local maid, Jeelani Indo-Soviet Friendship Society Archives in Copenhagen, about? Begum, who spoke Urdu and and Indian Federation of Uni- All cheques to ‘Chennai Heritage’. DD/Cheque should be sent by (Answers on page 8) Tamil, was the Punjabi family’s versity Women’s Association. Speed Post only. April 16-30, 2014 MADRAS MUSINGS 7 Seeing scenes in perspective (Continued from page 5) bushes that were behind the frontal ones. I began working on my Till April 20: Prana – an art exhi- chard Strauss: Ein Heldenleben DakshinaChitra Workshops drawing with large buds in the nearby bushes making them pro- bition by the students of Visual (7.00 p.m. at Digital Concert For adults Arts (Painting Specialisation), Hall, Goethe-Institut) gressively smaller but in larger numbers. This would lead the eye to May 7-11: Tanjore painting Stella Maris College (at Lalit Art exhibition by An- a group of typical tile-roofed village houses, flanked by coconut May 1-31: May 10, 11 & 17: Terracotta Kala Akademi). thony Raj and Ramu (at palms, with the distant Western Ghats as the backdrop. jewellery making No photograph of the jasmine garden – or any jasmine garden Till April 26: Alphonso – A retro- DakshinaChitra) spective of senior artist May 17 & 18: Kerala Mural on for that matter – would resemble my artwork, which gives the illu- Art works by Veera San- duppatta sion of floating above the blooms. Here, I tried to capture the Alphonso Arul Doss (at thanam – ‘Museum collections DakshinaChitra). May 31: Paper Quilling jewellery essence of the garden rather than aim for photographic realism. make connections’ (at Till April 28: Art exhibition by DakshinaChitra). For Children (8-14 years) When I completed the drawing in 2003, I experienced a special May 1-4: Studio Pottery – Four sense of fulfilment that I had been granted the grace to create such Dhan Prasad on the theme For- June 4-30: Art exhibition by tune Teller (at DakshinaChitra). types of pottery a piece of artwork with my severely impaired vision. Brijesh Devareddy (at April 19: Berlin Philharmonic Or- DakshinaChitra). May 10: Activity Camp One May 17: Miniature Heritage house chestra, featuring: Photographs by G Mahema told me on the phone that we were to go to June 5-30: models Anton Webern: Six Pieces Kushboo Bharti – art in public Cottingley to survey and take pictures of the building for Mano May 24: Activity Camp Two to sketch. She added that it was the official residence of the for orchestra Op. 6B; Ludwig van spaces of Jaipur. (at Dakshina- Beethoven: Piano Concerto No. Chitra) To register please call 98417 British Deputy High Commissioner, whose wife wanted an 77779 original ink drawing of the house by Mano. Be early, Mahe told 5 in E flat major “Emperor”; Ri- * * * me, because the soft early morning light is a little less harsh on Mano’s eye. We reached Cottingley well on time. It is a sprawling colo- nial-style house, with a gracious portico, surrounded by waving palms and lots of lush greenery. Understandably, Mano OF ‘OFFICIAL’ SLUMS AND requested Mahema to suggest the right location and angle for the artwork. We clicked several pictures and left. After a week or so, we went again to Cottingley on another ‘UNOFFICIAL’ ONES sketching expedition. Acute tunnel vision is a part of Mano’s visual problem. He could see unclearly only a tiny protion of the (Continued from page 1) large house, through the narrow cone of his vision. With all the What has however been have remained uninhabited. In greenery surrounding the building, he had difficulty compre- and more habitable. The best happening is the spending of some cases, people have taken hending the complex shape of the edifice. So, Mano wanted to huge amounts of money obtain- possession, rented out the space get a feel of the building. I explained, as best as I could, its prime examples of such activities were architectural features. Mano gave me a piece of paper and asked in the 1930s when Ayodhya- ed under schemes such as the to others and moved back to me to fold it in the shape of the facade. Holding it in his hand, kuppam was transformed. Jawaharlal Nehru National Ur- their original location. To what he directed me to lead him close to the house. I did this as much Work then continued sporadi- ban Renewal Mission (JNNU- purpose then the huge amounts as the cacti and palms would permit. I held his hand and made cally with another burst of RM) and the Rajeev Awas spent? him touch the building wherever possible. He asked such pen- commendable activity in the Yojana (RAY) to build resettle- It is high time the TNSCB etrating questions that I looked at Cottingley in a new light. We years immediately after Inde- ment colonies for the slum woke up from its sloth and then left for breakfast. pendence. dwellers. began looking at creative It took me two days to print the pictures on A5-size paper. Rather ironically, the setting These serve no earthly pur- solutions for improving the Well before I could send the photographs to him, a letter arrived up of the TNSCB was to see the pose whatsoever, as the resi- conditions of people living in for me. It was a copy of a letter from Mano to Dr. Venkata- swamy (Chief of Aravind Eye Hospital), describing our recent decline in such efforts, though dents of slums need to be near slums. It cannot take cover foray and enclosing a sketch of Cottingley as Mano had seen it in the sheer inaction in recent their places of work. under the fact that the Act that his mind’s eye. To my utter astonishment, the quick sketch years is inexplicable. The There have in the recent saw its creation mandates it to (below) was a very good replica of the building – a building he TNSCB has to just look all past been attempts to relocate handle only ‘approved’ slums could hardly see. around its rather shabby head- the age-old fishing hamlets by and the rest can fend for them- To this day, I quarters by the Marina to see the Marina in places far re- selves. And it should also am never tired of several glaring instances of moved from the sea, such as remember that even in the case recounting this slums – behind Simpsons, near Maraimalai Nagar! of the so-called ‘official’ slums, tale. To me, it was the Bodyguard Lines and, of As a consequence, many of it can afford to do a lot more just one more in- these new settlement colonies than what it is doing. stance of Mano’s course, all along the Cooum. and Mahe’s amaz- ing ability to tri- umph over disabili- ties and stubborn refusal to let them get in the way of their en- joyment of life and art. I realised that he did the sketch, not so The multi-faceted Balfour much using his eyes, but more from his inner vision and a deep sight into perspective in art. As he explained in his letter, once (Continued from page 5) and ungrudging, but the useful- and ran into second editions in he was able to visualise anything three dimensionally inside his ness of the work was soon gen- the following year. He also mind, he could put it on paper using his deep knowledge of erally recognised, and the whole translated J. T. Conquest’s Out- pespective. The fact is that he cannot see your face even at close His masterpiece quarters, but the reality is that he can draw a building based on expenditure was met within two lines of Midwifery into In 1857 appeared the 4-vol- years. While working on the Hindustani and procured and touch, feel and sketchy descriptions. That is Mano. ume work by which Balfour is Mano and Mahema, of course, shared with me the final ink updated and third revision of printed at his own expense best known: The Cyclopaedia of his Cyclopaedia of India in Lon- translations of the same work in drawing of Cottingley (below). I was very happy that I had made India and of Eastern and -South- my contribution towards the creation of this and other drawings don, he published Indian For- Tamil, Telugu, and Kannada. by Mano. ern Asia, Commercial, Industrial, estry (1885) and The Agricul- He also translated Tate’s . This book embod- – Joan Rajadas and Scientific tural Pests of India and of Eastern Astronomy into Hindustani; he ied profound experience, exten- (who often helps Mano) and Southern Asia, Vegetable, prepared Statistical Map of sive reading, and indefatigable Animal (1887). the World (1854) in both effort. A second edition, in five Hindustani and English, which volumes, appeared in India in Miscellaneous publications was also printed in Tamil and 1873, and between 1877 and Before leaving India Balfour Telugu. 1884. Balfour revised the book wrote two pamphlets -under the for publication in England. Af- general title Medical hints to the * * * ter the first edition, the word people of India, of which one was Balfour amazingly linked ‘cyclopaedia’ was substituted in The Vydian and the Hakim, what science, science administration, the title for ‘encyclopaedia’. do they know of Medicine? and and human values, while The third edition, which was the other was Eminent medical serving in India. Quite published in London in 1885, men of Asia, Africa, Europe, and appropriately, this remarkable was at many points superior America, who have advanced Scot is remembered today in to the earlier impressions. medical science. Both were Madras in Balfour Road, Balfour’s outlay on it was lavish (Concluded) published in Madras in 1875, Kilpauk. 8 MADRAS MUSINGS April 16-30, 2014

he hiring of foreign coaches spectacular sight of Gilchrist Tby India and other cricket chasing a recalcitrant young playing countries has been the A.F. Wensley and paceman on Mount Road when subject of much debate in the Dr. Manjiri Kamat, Associ- tiative and energy was ours – have existed with great in- hewould caught insist him on greentrying spaces to slip – last decade or so, but English ate Professor of History: Cities and the urban context was equalities – but the maidans and away,lots of while it, like watching Central a Parkcricket in andmost other of coachesthe time from out abroadon the in India, like the rest of the structured by the British. What other public spaces were always matchNew York at the or Government Hyde Park Arts in streets.have done Town duty planners in India, have South to world, are undergoingother a rapid is grotesque coaches today is to see all shared by rich and poor alike. College.London. The French President takeAfrica, into New consideration Zealand and West the transformation... Some cities that invaluable initiative and This common ground was the recentlySyed Mushtaqinvited famous Ali, the archi- most ing 113 batsmen. In each of four Another veteran coach to needsIndies atand the aspirations first class and of other the have a heritage that dates back energy running amuck. So 20- essential safety valve that let it excitingtects to rethinkIndian batsmanParis as a of post- the other years he took 100 wickets distinguish himself was S.E. slumlevels dwellers of domestic and think cricket of alter- for to pre-colonial times while the storey buildings in Parel are be- all co-exist. Lose it – and the pre-WarKyoto city. era, OneRamnath of France’s Kenny and performed the hat-trick Audhi Chetty, while the much nativewell over creative fifty years. solutions to port cities of Mumbai, Kolkata ing constructed just 10 feet city goes the way of andmost Joe eminent Kamath architects were some pro- of against Middlesex at Lord’s in younger P.K. Dharmalingam solveAlbert their Frederickproblems andWensley those and Chennai rose to promi- apart – creating a world with- Johannesburg, Nairobi and Sao theposed coaches that all from traffic other should States be 1935. As a professional in New was a fixture in official TNCA of(1898-1970), the city. a veteran Sussex nence during the British Raj. out hope for the occupants. A Paolo. Is this what we want our torouted do duty underground in Tamil Nadu.and a large Zealand, he returned the best coaching efforts for many years. all-rounder,* was * among * the ear- New urban agglomerations like world in which future genera- cities to become? greenTamil swathe Nadu should has also connect been an bowling analysis of his career Dharma, in addition to coach- liestPankaj to coach Joshi, in India, Ex. Director after he Hyderabad, Bengaluru and tions of Indians will be con- importantParis. Another contributor architect would of with nine Otago wickets for 36 ingI Statebelieve teams in the at variouscities of lev-In- cameUDRI: to Cities assist Nawanagarhave come into thebe many others have arisen in the demned to live. coacheslike to create to the a checkerboard National and of for Auckland in 1929-30. els,dia. alsoThey had are the our distinction future. Like of Ranjiseen asTrophy economic in the engines,1936-37 era of globalisation. The princi- There is nothing wrong in Zonalbuilt and Cricket green Academies spaces so of that the The highest of his five cen- Albert Frederick Wensley. assistingthe wheat in fields coaching of the camps Punjab, for season.enablers He of playedsocial anda stellar intellec- role pal challenge for urban planners building for profit – London BCCI.almost Anevery impressive building number or com- of turies in county cricket was his lieutenant. The much loved theand Indianthe coal team, fields besidesof Bihar, being they intual Nawanagar’s collaboration, title and triumph hence and policy makers is to develop was constructed by private de- Tamilplex faces Nadu a green coaches area. If I couldhave 140 against Glamorgan. Three ‘Pattu”, V. Pattabhiraman, and aare pioneer a crucial in part coaching of our nationalwomen thatthe preferredseason, with residence eight wickets for urban spaces in a more holistic velopers sub-dividing the old qualifiedwave a wand as Level and transform I, II and ourIII times he completed 1,000 runs the respected cricket writer S.K. cricketers.wealth. For our urban centres inmuch the offinal the againstworld’s population.Bengal. He manner so as to safeguard the aristocratic estates. This is what coaches.cities, I wouldToday, invite every districtthe most of in a summer for the county. Gurunathan were the two- nurture the skills that we need alsoUnfortunately, played an inequally cities aroundcrucial built heritage and promote de- created Belgravia, Mayfair, To go back to ‘MCA’ days, theinnovative TNCA architectshas a coaching in the Strong in driving and pulling, member committee entrusted to develop our nation: Doctors, rolethe world scoring – and67 in especially the second in In-in- velopment with sensitivity for Regent’s Park, and so forth. The the BCCI-constituted Raj programmeworld to design run these by qualifiedcities but he hit 120 in 110 minutes with the task. engineers, nurses, lawyers – ningsdia – ofbetter the final economic against condi-Hyde- environment. Above all, the crucial difference was that these Kumari Amrit Kaur scheme en- coaches.I would insist that each city’s against Derbyshire at Horsham Very soon, BS Nets, which these are all urban skills. Then rabadtions have next not year, translated which Nawa- into a stakeholders who are the urban developers building within pa- abled the association to avail it- culturalThe MRFheritage Pace must Foundation be privi- in 1930, when he and H.W. opened at the northeastern cor- again, they are Engines of Eco- nagarbetter lostquality by oneof life. wicket, Today, with in inhabitants must find a voice in rameters clearly defined by the self of the services of many wasleged started along with by the the tyrebuilding major of Parks added 178 for the ninth ner of Chepauk, and later ex- nomic Growth – properly man- HyderabadIndian cities, succeedingthere is scarcity in ofa shaping the city of the future. authorities, viz. roads, parks, coaches under the scheme. MRFdistinctive Limited twocontemporary decades ago. wicket, a Sussex record. A reli- panded to include such bran- aged, they would generate the thrillingevery service 310-run integral chase. to aEddie bet- To me, an ideal city should schools, hospitals, etc. Some of them were Ram Singh, Thespaces. Foundation’s coaching able close-in fieldsman, he funds needed not only for their Aibara,ter quality another of life... coach Sadly, of repute the be remembered for its Equality, Speak to any American, and Hemu Adhikari, C.K. Nayudu, programme* to * unearth * and twice held five catches in an in- G own development, but for the post-retirement,singular pursuit of made framing an un-the Adequate Infrastructure, Sense they willby bemoanV. Ramnarayan devastation of and M. Rehmat Baig. There trainManu fast Bhatnagar:bowlers was Already spear- nings and in the second War- hinterland around (as in the beatencity’s development 137 for Hyderabad. in economic of Belonging, Sense of Place... their cities. Development in were a few English coaches as headedfive states by areAustralian more than fast 50 bowl- per wickshire innings at Edgbaston case of Hong Kong and South Wensleynumbers tookignores 2 for these 38 and aspects. 1 for Why are European cities so chestheir as downtown the Bhat Nets areas at inMUC, the well, coming to India during ingcent guru urbanised. Dennis The Lillee, pressure assisted on in 1932 he had a hand in the China). Lastly, they are Places 48A Developmentin the match. PlanAmar has Singh to beautiful? The central cores becameearly 20th the Century hub of ledofficial to a their winter to run short camps. byresources, Tamil Nadu habitats and India andfast dismissal of nine of the ten bats- of Hope – for millions and mil- andreframe Vinoo afresh Mankad as a were city amongfor its with their plazas and gardens coachingdearth of essential activity social in the ameni- city. Frank Tyson, Eddie Paynter bowlerbiodiversity T.A. willSekar. be Today,tremendous Glen men, returning bowling figures lions of the have-nots of our so- hispeople Nawanagar and their teammatesaspirations forin are carefully nurtured and pre- Wensleyties – which was drove imported families by outthe and Mike Goodwin were some McGrathand sustainability and M. will Senthil-be a key of six wickets for 73 runs. This ciety, perhaps their only path to whata better were life perhaps– a life thatthe sunrisehas af- served. We must ensure that Madrasinto the suburbs,Cricket leaving Association behind of the more prominent imports. nathanissue. The have human taken Lillee’sdominated and was the player who came out to a better future. yearsfordable of professionalhousing, open cricket space, in our core areas are similarly re- largelyan urban through battlefield, the effortsas in the of Goodwin and T.S. Worthing- Sekar’slandscape places. needs to be re- coach in Madras in the 1940s. India.quality health care and educa- stored and revitalised. Pattu,Bronx, and Cleveland he was instrumentaland Detroit. ton, a very popular figure in the visualisedAnother so premierthat human coaching habi- Organised coaching in Ma- * * * tion,Bert accessible Wensley public was the transpor- Sussex * * * inThis the does development not happen in alongParis, early 1960s, coached in Madras. establishmenttats are interspersed of Madras with natu- was dras was first arranged in the BS Tasneem Mehta, Vice professionaltation and safety from for 1922 women to 1936, and Charles Correa: Architect: properLondon, lines or Vienna.of many Why? a promis- Be- Chairman, INTACH: By 2015, theral habitats, MAC Foundation’s ecological services Spin Nets, a facility the Madras An unforgettable foreign takingchildren. 1,135 wickets and scor- The British did not build ingcause Madras European cricketer. cities have three of the world’s 17 mega- Academy,areas, local supported nature reserves by the andAC Cricket Association established coach was the West Indies fast ing 10,735* runs. * He * achieved Bombay – Indians did. The ini- neverWensley allowed made FSI to quite rise highera few cities will be in India. There will Muthiah-ledcorridors in a seamlessMAC group mosaic. of in 1944 in memory of B. Subra- bowler Roy Gilchrist who was in the cricketer’s double in 1929, tripsthan totheir Madras, per capita even standards into the be 34 cities of more than 1.5 companies.* The * *first spin maniam, Buchi Babu’s faithful Madras in the 1960s under a scoring 1,057 runs and dismiss- 1950s,for social when amenities. many young crick- million people and 50 per cent bowlerK.T. of Ravindran: calibre to headMany the of special dispensation of the etersRaising enjoyed FSI hisdoes benevolent not help a of India’s population will live in academythe principles was V.V.that areKumar. emerging Answers to Quiz Board, coaching our young fast guidance.city – it destroys it. Look at these cities. The most rapid in newPrivate city enterprisedesigns can has be seenalso 1. Crimea; 2. Saudi Arabia; 3. Sea anemone; 4. Magic Bus; 5. Air bowling prospects and also play- ManhattenA direct today beneficiary – the only of growth however, will happen in beenembedded responsible in the forpre-industrial a veritable pollution; 6. ‘How I Met Your Mother’; 7. Khanty-Mansiysk; 8. Pritzker ing for South Zone in the Wensley’sfamilies left coaching are very rich skills whites was tier-II cities such as Ahama- boomcities. inThe coaching lesson that activity India’s in Prize; 9. It is a 6-shot cylinder revolver that is being marketed as India’s Duleep Trophy. Known for his first gun for women to defend themselves; 10. South Africa. A.G.and very Ram poor Singh, blacks. who, And fromfirst dabad, Hyderabad... We are at Chennai,old cities withhold coaching for the crisis schools in unorthodox, even eccentric * * * assistedthis polarisation him and, follows in time, much be- the threshold of an important andmodern clinics cities galore beingis not estab- a ways, Gilchrist was a tough 11. R. Venketesh; 12. Anoop Jaiswal; 13. Durgarayapatnam (known as cameelse: distrust, a much-respected violence, crime coach – moment of transformation. lished.romanticised There notion is certainly of historic no taskmaster, and sure enough Armagon in the 17th century); 14. Krupabai Satthianadhan; 15. himself.which leads In turn, to Gated Ram Singh Commu- was This is an opportunity to define dearthformalism. of coaches They are and sound coaching prin- some of the fast bowlers in his Chintadripet; 16. St. Thomas Street; 17. Nageswara Rao; 18. Florence assistednities – by that such escalate devoted the coaches con- ourselves through creative solu- inciples Tamil towards Nadu, which though new the skep-cities camp started playing truant af- ‘Lady with the Lamp’ Nightingale; 19. Sahitya Akademi Award winners asfrontation K.S. Kannan into and a realN.J. Venka-battle: tions that do not clone worn ticshave may to ask inevitably to what effect, move. going – for Tamil writing; 20. It was the agreement between the ruling Raghunatha ter the first few days of his camp. tesan,Them vs.who Us. served For centuries Tamil Nadu our out ideas. by(Courtesy: the poor Virasatperformance, the journal of the Nayak and the Danes inviting the latter to trade from Tarangampadi cricket very well for years. Some of us were witness to the State team in recent years! (Tranque-bar). cities, like Kolkata and Bombay, What is an ideal city? I of INTACH)

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PublishedPublished by S. Muthiahby S. Muthiahfor ‘Chennai for Heritage’,‘Chennai No. Heritage’, 5, Bhattad 260-A, Tower, TTK 30, WestcottRoad, Chennai Road, Royapettah, 600 018 Chennaiand printed 600 014, by Tprinted J George by Anu at Varghese Lokavani-Hallmark at Lokavani Southern Press Pvt. Printers Ltd., Pvt. 122, Ltd., Greams 122, Greams Road, Road, Chennai Chennai 600 600 006. 006, Edited and edited by S.by MUTHIAH.S. Muthiah.