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Sheffield Lives: the Birth of a City

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Sheffield Lives: the Birth of a City Sheffield Lives: The Birth of a City Introduction Sheffield Lives is a walking trail through Sheffield’s past. Starting at the castle in 1570, with the arrival of Mary Queen of Scots, it takes users on a chronological journey through the city before returning to the castle to witness its demolition in 1649. Practicalities The trail is just under three miles in length and follows pavements and pedestrianised routes through Sheffield as well as a short section on Sheffield’s Upper Don Walk. (Disclaimer: Whilst every effort has been taken to use traffic free routes, this audio trail takes place in an urban environment. Users of the trail following the route do so at their own rish and the trail’s curators do not accept any liability for damage or injury caused whilst following the trail) Begin the Tour The tour begins at the junction of Exchange Street with Haymarket. If unfamiliar with the area, from the Fitzalan Square- Ponds Forge tram stop, walk for a short distance uphill and take the first right (Haymarket); the second pedestrianised lane to your right is Exchange Street. Key of Scots The earliest plan of Sheffield, published in 1736 by Ralph Gosling (Sheffield Archives FC She 1S) Picture Captions and Permissions Stop 1:Section through the castle ditch (© University of Sheffield); Reconstruction of Sheffield Castle (© Sheffield Newspapers); Portrait of Mary, Queen of Scots after Nicholas Hilliard (© National Portrait Gallery, London. NPG 429) Stop 2:19th-century sketch of the junction of Change Alley and High Street (© Sheffield Archives and Local Library, Picture Sheffield Collection s14248); William Dickenson's building accounts (©Sheffield Archives and Local Studies Library, MD 192); Late 19th-century photograph of High Street (© Sheffield Archives and Local Studies Library, Picture Sheffield Collection s13695) Stop 3:The Old Queen's Head (© Rachel Askew); The Old Queen's Head, c.1821 (© Sheffield Archives and Local Studies Library, Picture Sheffield Collection s05462); Carving detail (© Rachel Askew); George Talbot, 6th Earl of Shrewsbury by Unknown Artist (© National Portrait Gallery, London, NPG 6343) Stop 4:The excavated well (© University of Sheffield); 14th-century jug recovered from the well (© University of Sheffield); 18th-century image of street flushing near Barker's Pool (© Sheffield Archives and Local Studies Library, Picture Sheffield Collection s13279) Stop 5:Sheffield Cathedral (Source: Wikipedia); Funeral of Mary, Queen of Scots (© The British Library Board, Add. 35324, f.4); Trees; Sheffield Manor Lodge (© Sheffield Archives and Local Studies Library, Picture Sheffield Collection s05239) Stop 6:Location of the School House (© Rachel Askew); Seal of the Grammar School (© Sheffield Archives and Local Studies Library, Picture Sheffield Collection t00174); Location of the School House from the 1771 Fairbank map of Sheffield (© Sheffield Archives and Local Studies Library, JC 1771) Stop 7: Old Cutlers' Hall (© Sheffield Archives and Local Studies Library, Picture Sheffield Collection s05131); The crest of the Worshipful Company of Cutlers in Hallamshire (© Rachel Askew) Stop 8: Lady Alethea Talbot (Source: Wikipedia); Detail of West Bar from the 1771 Fairbank map of Sheffield (© Sheffield Archives and Local Studies Library, JC 1771); Detail from sculpture depicting Sheffield on West Bar (© Rachel Askew); Detail of Royal Coat of Arms from Sheffield Law Courts (© Rachel Askew) Stop 9: Detail of Kelham Island from the 1771 Fairbank map of Sheffield (© Sheffield Archives and Local Studies Library, JC 1771); Kelham Island (© Rachel Askew); Early 17th-century Blacksmith (Source: Wikipedia); Civil War woodcut of Prince Rupert attacking Birmingham (Source: Wikipedia); Detail from Kelham Island (© Rachel Askew) Stop 10: Detail of Town Mill from the 1771 Fairbank map of Sheffield (© Sheffield Archives and Local Studies Library, JC 1771); 16th-century woodcut depicting exorcism (Source: Wikipedia); Elizabeth Talbot (Bess of Hardwick) by Unknown artist (© National Portrait Gallery, London, NPG 203); 17th-century woodcut of a woman spinning (Source: Wikipedia) Stop 11:Mid-20th-century photograph of the underside of Lady's Bridge (© Sheffield Archives and Local Studies Library, Picture Sheffield Collection y01705); The Chapel of St Mary on the Bridge, Derby (Source: Wikipedia) Stop 12: Detail of the site of the castle from the 1771 Fairbank map of Sheffield (© Sheffield Archives and Local Studies Library, JC 1771); The demolition accounts (Reproduced with the permission of Special Collections, Leeds University Library, MS 295/57 fol 3); Image from the 1927 excavations of the castle (Reproduced with permission of Museums Sheffield) Stop 1: Sheffield Castle The castle dominated the 16th-century town of Sheffield, and was one of the largest in the North of England. We don’t know exactly when the castle was first built, although there was a castle here by 1266, when it was burnt down by rebellious barons. It was rebuilt soon after, and stood until the 17th century, when it was described as being “fairly built with stone & very A section through the castle ditch spacious”. How do we know what it looked like? There are no drawings or plans of the castle, and it was destroyed long before the first map of Sheffield in 1736. Documents and archaeological excavations have given us small insights into its form, and have resulted in reconstructions such as the one above. Since then, our knowledge has developed and, whilst there are some things reconstructions got right, there are also things that are wrong. 1) The moat. Whilst our usual image of a castle is of a building surrounded by water, the height of Sheffield Castle above the river means this was impossible here. This was by no means unusual; many medieval castles did not have water in their moats, the ditch alone being a sufficient defence. However, at Sheffield, water was held in the moat through a series of sluices. 2) The gatehouse. We know the exact location of the gatehouse as it was discovered during the 1920s excavations. However, we only have the foundations, so can only guess at how it may have looked above the ground based on other gatehouses of a similar period, such as Bodiam in East Sussex. 3) The castle's interior. The lack of archaeological work carried out here means much of this is guesswork, but through historical documents we do have tantalising glimpses of rooms such as the hall, kitchen, armoury and even a 'blacke chamber'. 4) What lay beyond the moat? Only half the castle is depicted here, if a 17th-century survey is to be believed, as the outer courtyard extended to Fitzalan Square and beyond. However, was this as fortified as the inner courtyard, or was it a collection of buildings defined by a fence or even just a street? We can only guess as there is no evidence from documents or archaeology. The arrival of Mary, Queen of Scots In 1570, the castle hosted one of the most famous women of the 16th-century, Mary, Queen of Scots, who had fled from Scotland to seek refuge with her cousin, Elizabeth I. However, at this time of political upheaval, the Protestant Elizabeth saw the Catholic Mary as a threat and imprisoned her. Her choice of gaoler was George, 6th Earl of Shrewsbury, one of the richest men in the country, whose principal home was here in Sheffield. In 1570, George was 50 and was newly wedded to Bess of Hardwick; he had much to be proud of. Having already imprisoned Mary at Tutbury Castle and Chatsworth, in 1570 Elizabeth I finally gave George permission to bring Mary to Sheffield. Directions to Stop 2 Ÿ From the site of the castle, walk up the hill along Haymarket until you reach the tram tracks. Ÿ Turn right here and walk along High Street to the Castle Square tram stop. Ÿ At the stop, cross the tracks to the paved area and look slightly to your left at the junction of Arundel Gate and High Street. Ÿ Although there little sign of it today, this is the site of William Dickenson’s house. Stop 2: William Dickenson’s House? Whilst the Earls of Shrewsbury were the Lords of the Manor, they relied on bailiffs to conduct the day to day running of their estates. During the late 16th century, the bailiff for Sheffield was William Dickenson, who has left us a series of accounts, letters and a notebook containing his everyday dealings. This book contains the records of a house Dickenson built in Sheffield 'next to Mistress Bray' between 1574 and 1575; unfortunately, we have no clue as to where Mistress Bray's house was situated, but local tradition holds that the grand building that once stood here was the house that William built. As bailiff, William Dickenson was responsible for overseeing the running of the Lord’s Hallamshire estates and collecting rent, which came in the form of money and other goods such as chickens. The house he built in Sheffield reflected his status and took over thirteen months to build. All Dickenson’s costs were jotted down in his notebook, including £4 (around £1,000) spent on a party when the houses’ wooden frame was completed. Demolition and a near miss The building survived until the late 19th-century, when it was demolished during the widening of High Street. However, it had a narrow escape a hundred years earlier, when an apprentice put a burning candle into what he thought was a barrel of linseed. On hearing this, his master rushed off to remove the candle from the barrel which contained, rather than linseed, gunpowder! Directions to Stop 3 Ÿ Walk slightly uphill to the pedestrian crossing over Arundel Gate. Ÿ Turn left and cross over Arundel Gate again at the next pedestrian crossing. Ÿ Bear left slightly to go back downhill along High Steet and take the next right along Flat Street, passing the open area (Fitzalan Square) on your left.
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