JULY 2018 Issue 20

FROM YOUR OWN CORRESPONDENTS

AN UPDATE FROM CORNWALL ARCHAEOLOGICAL SOCIETY’S AREA REPRESENTATIVES

Any opinions or errors in these articles are those of the authors and must not be assumed to be those of Cornwall Archaeological Society.

JULY 2018 Issue 20

This month:

MAYON MALAISE - CROSS IN PERIL BASHED BRIDGES (UPDATE) VALLEY OF THE DOLEFUL DARTMOOR DAUNDER IF YOU GO DOWN TO HELFORD WOODS TODAY…

MAYON MALAISE - CROSS IN PERIL

This is Mayon, or Brew, Cross (SW 3649 2569) near Sennen in 2012. It is a classic Cornish view, with the cross set in the timeless farming landscape of Penwith.

Photo: Andrew Langdon 2

But imagine Andrew Langdon’s dismay when he visited the cross in July 2018 and saw this:

Photo: Andrew Langdon

Andrew writes: ‘Mayon Cross cross has been knocked over once, propped up, and fallen over again, several times during the last few years. There seems some confusion on the Historic Environment Record between this cross and the Sennen Green Cross which stands just three fields away, although they are separate monuments… The Sennen Green Cross is both scheduled and listed, but the Mayon Cross (sometimes referred to as Brew Cross) is neither scheduled nor listed.’ Worse still, ‘the cross is now lying on the ground in the centre of the field and the field is up for sale, so I am concerned about its future.’

Crosses form an essential component of a medieval landscape that survives in much of the county. ‘Iconic’ has become a tiresome cliché and yet crosses do fit into this category since they are recognisable, symbolic and important features that deserve our protection and appreciation. Hopefully, a safe future for this lovely cross can be found.

BASHED BRIDGES (UPDATE)

The June edition drew attention to the damage inflicted by traffic on various medieval bridges. Sadly, there is news of more damage.

In 1928, Charles Henderson wrote that during the medieval period: ‘Chief among the practical exercises of Christian charity was the Building of Bridges, and thus the Bridge from being a mere convenience of stone and mortar came to have a character that was almost sacred.’ Yet even then: ‘Traffic grows more exacting year by year and road authorities are now faced with the problem of how to treat old bridges’ (Henderson, C, and Coates, H, 1928. Old Cornish Bridges and Streams [1972 reprint], Bradford Barton, Truro, 16, 31).

In 2018 there is no doubt about the exacting challenges from vehicles but it does not seem that some of our road-users believe the structures to be ‘almost sacred’ as these examples show.

Rosy Hanns has sent in photos of Clapper Bridge near Callington (Quethiock parish, SX 3517 6525). This is a Scheduled Monument and a Grade II Listed Building. Damage to both parapets can be seen clearly.

Photo: Rosy Hanns

Major repairs to the parapet will be needed. Note the blue paint on the stones. Presumably this came from the vehicle that hit the bridge.

Photo: Rosy Hanns

The plastic bollard to warn drivers no longer serves that function, as the next picture shows:

Photo: Rosy Hanns 6

Diana Sutherland is worried about Higher New Bridge, or Netherbridge, in the parish of St Stephens near Launceston (SX 3489 8669) which is still open to traffic despite the availability of a more modern bridge 55 metres to the north. She reports that ‘the milk lorries park [in a lay-by] and drop off the extra container to be picked up later; this means that the only way they can exit the lay-by is to go over the bridge’. Fortunately there has been no damage but Diana regularly monitors the structure, which Leland described thus in 1539: ‘Or ever I cam to Lanstoun by a mile, I passed over a bridge of stone having three arches and a smaul caullid New Bridge.’

Photo: Diana Sutherland

Diana has also made a suggestion for the protection of our ancient bridges which merits very serious consideration: ‘I wonder if the Highways could put their mind to inserting huge stones at the entrance of bridges and organise them in such way that large vehicles have to approach the bridge in a straight line. If the bridge is already in a straight line, for the approach of any large vehicle, could they not insert the stones so that they can at least protect the splayed ends? I would think it might be more economical in the long run.’

In the last issue news about very recent further damage to Respryn Bridge (Lanhydrock parish, SX 0993 6349) was reported. Robin Paris regularly provides the Area Representative with information and her devotion to this task is essential for the efficient monitoring of this heavily-used structure.

In this photograph you can see dislodged masonry from the bridge lying underneath the clear water of the River Fowey:

Photo: Robin Paris

Photo: Robin Paris 8

At the time of writing the only action to protect the parapet from further damage was a cone placed on the bridge by concerned National Trust staff (the Trust also, to its further credit, dealt swiftly with a tree that had been washed against the bridge). Cornwall Council Highways department will hopefully be able to do something about the bridge itself soon. Robin’s next photo shows that it is possible to peer through the parapet to view the river.

Photo: Robin Paris

A solution, such as that suggested by Diana Sutherland, needs to be found soon because Respryn Bridge is being damaged so frequently. It should be added that in the case of bridges, and all other heritage features, the Historic England Heritage at Risk Project Officers who cover Cornwall (Ann Preston-Jones for most of the county, and Dan Bashford for the south-east) always act very quickly but long-term solutions have to come from the statutory bodies. Unfortunately, public sector austerity policies mean that the resources required are often unavailable.

What would Charles Henderson have thought? No doubt he would have repeated his lament of 1928: ‘All this is very sad, for no work of man is more delightful to the eye than a venerable stone bridge.’

VALLEY OF THE DOLEFUL

In Issue 1 (December 2016) there was mention of an exciting project involving the Luxulyan Valley. The hope was to secure a £3.5 million HLF grant to fund major conservation work. Huge efforts have been made by Cornwall Council officers, the trustees and staff of Cornwall Heritage Trust, the Friends of Luxulyan Valley and many others to make this a reality. Unfortunately, it has not been possible to take this project any further as the following shows:

Joint statement from Cornwall Council & Cornwall Heritage Trust relating to Luxulyan Valley HLF Project

Since the end of 2015 Cornwall Council and Cornwall Heritage Trust have been developing a project to restore and conserve the Luxulyan Valley’s built and natural environment.

Much work has been undertaken to investigate all necessary works including the restoration of the Treffry Viaduct a Scheduled Ancient Monument and the associated leat system. Statutory consents are required to progress works at a site with significant heritage value. In addition an extensive programme of works has been developed through consultation with the Friends of Luxulyan Valley and the local community on how to get more people involved in the valley.

Due to the scale and complexity of the project the development phase has therefore taken longer than anticipated.

Estimated costs to deliver the project have increased beyond the budget available and whilst partners have been exploring all opportunities to resolve the funding gap, no additional funding is available at this time.

As the Heritage Lottery Fund grant allocation is due to expire without all statutory consents being in place the Heritage Lottery Funded Project cannot unfortunately be progressed at this time.

The project team are however continuing to gain the necessary consents to take forward a viable conservation project and once the specific works have been agreed alternative funding opportunities can be explored.

This is very disappointing but given the complexity of the project perhaps not surprising. It was worth a try!

Cornwall Heritage Trust is dedicated to the conservation of the Treffry Viaduct 10

Huge challenges face Cornwall Council which owns much of the Valley, including repairing and maintaining the Fowey Consols leat

This has come as a blow. However, to put it in context: the Valley remains a World Heritage Site; the Treffry Viaduct is still under the stewardship of Cornwall Heritage Trust; Cornwall Council is committed to the well-being of the Valley; there is a dedicated and gifted Cormac Countryside Ranger – Jenny Heskett; and the Friends of Luxulyan Valley and other local people are committed to the conservation of the Valley’s natural and historic environment.

These photos have been chosen as an unseasonal reminder of the snow of March – do you remember that? 11

DARTMOOR DAUNDER

Well, dear reader, you have had a lot of gloomy news to digest and, having stoically read this far, you deserve a fillip and here it is – we’re going abroad, well to Devon, which is pretty much the same thing. Rosy Hanns and Peter Crispin are Area Reps for numerous parishes in East Cornwall and what follows is Rosy’s report of Caradon Archaeology’s annual Dartmoor Daunder, led by Peter. (If, like me, you hadn’t come across the word ‘daunder’ before, it apparently means a walk or amble – I told you this would be a foreign adventure.) Here are Rosy’s words and photos:

A cooling breeze and superb visibility gave ideal conditions for Peter’s day walk on Dartmoor. From a remote car park the far side of Sheepstor, Peter led us to Ditsworthy Warren, once the largest commercial rabbit warren on Dartmoor. We looked at some rabbit buries which used to be called ‘pillow mounds’ to distinguish them from Neolithic long barrows.

Rabbit bury Kennel Court

Photo: Rosy Hanns Photo: Rosy Hanns Averaging 16 metres long, 7 metres wide and 2 metres high, they provided soft, dry ground for the rabbits to burrow into and inhabit. We visited Ditsworthy House which was built for the keeper of the warren and saw the remains of the ‘paunching house’ where the rabbits were skinned and gutted and the ‘Kennel Court’ in the field immediately to the east of the house where the dogs were kept. In 1857 up to 300 pairs of rabbits could be netted in one night using pegged out nets and dogs. In August 2010 Ditsworthy Warren House was used as a filming location for the Steven Spielberg film ‘Warhorse’.

Peter then guided us to see the three stone rows at Drizzlecombe. Each stone row has a cairn at the upslope and terminates with a distinctive menhir. View down the stone row from the cairn View up the stone row from the menhir

Photos: Rosy Hanns 12

Between the east and south stone row is a large cairn known as the Giant’s Basin. This striking cairn is about 3 metres high and 22 metres across.

View of stone-walled cist View of Giant's Basin cairn

Photo: Rosy Hanns Photo: Rosy Hanns

On the same spur of land as the stone rows are the remains of at least 5 settlement sites and a large number of cairns in addition to a superb stone-walled cist.

Peter led the group to see two examples of Medieval tin mills, one either side of the Plym River. Peter explained that there were two types of mill, a stamping mill for crushing tin ore and preparing unsmelted black tin and a blowing house where tin ore was smelted. Sometimes one mill performed both operations. The mills were water powered. Peter encouraged us to look around the remains to find evidence of mortar stones on which ore was crushed by the stamps which left depressions in the granite where it was continually being pounded by the water powered iron hammers.

Remains of a mortar stone with the tell-tale depression Remains of a mortar stone with the tell-tale depression

Photo: Rosy Hanns Photo: Rosy Hanns

After a much needed lunch stop enjoying the magnificent views from Higher Hartor Tor, Peter led us to Eylesbarrow Tin mine where tin extraction dates back to at least the 12th century. By 1814 demand had caused the price of tin to rise to about £150 per ton and in that year a mining sett called Ellisborough Tin Sett was granted and extraction started at the mine. In 1822 the mine opened its own smelting house on the site – the only one in operation on the moor. There is evidence that black tin was bought from nearby mines for smelting. The mine operated until 1831 and at its peak employed over sixty men. Two waterwheels powered the lifting and pumping machinery using flat- rod systems to transfer power.

Granite supports for flat-rod systems Mine shaft at Eylesbarrow tin mine

Photo: Rosy Hanns Photo: Rosy Hanns

Up to the top of Eylesbarrow next to see two quite different granite posts. The first was PCWW Marker No 46. After the construction of Burrator Reservoir, Plymouth Corporation Water Works (PCWW) placed numerous markers on South West Dartmoor to mark the water catchment area.

PCWW Marker No 46

Photo: Rosy Hanns 14

The second post is known as the ‘Eylesbarrow Cobra’. This marker, originally one of four placed on the moor in the latter part of the nineteenth century, is known as a ‘cobra head’ due to its unusual shape resembling the hooded head of a cobra. All were inscribed with FB (Forest Bounds) on their east facing side and WB Walkhampton Bounds) on their west facing side. This was to denote the boundary between the Forest of Dartmoor (The King’s hunting ground) and Walkhampton. Unfortunately the Eylesbarrow cobra head was broken off in a wanton act of vandalism in 2014, the replacement head was funded by Dartmoor National Park and the Duchy of Cornwall and fixed in place by the National Park Conservation Works Team. The 'Eylesbarrow Cobra'

Photo: Rosy Hanns

Peter led us back towards the cars through Whitten Knowles, a large Bronze Age settlement with up to 38 roundhouses and field system, overlain with a medieval longhouse and ancillary buildings. After searching in the granites for a few minutes, Peter beckoned us over to see a ‘windstrew’. This being an exposed granite platform on which, when the strength of the wind was right, the corn would be threshed initially the grain would be separated from the corn by beating it with ‘dreshels’ (flails). This would then be tossed in the air thus letting the wind blow away the chaff. A very enjoyable and informative day. Thank you Peter for all the work you put into the research and for imparting it so well. Rosy Hanns

A 'windstrew' at Whitten Knowles settlement

IF YOU GO DOWN TO HELFORD WOODS TODAY…

…you will hear talk about a monograph. For some of us the word ‘monograph’ may conjure up the image of Sherlock Holmes setting aside his pipe and labouring over a deeply abstruse text, such as an analysis of 243 types of tobacco ash, but in this case the subject matter will be of much wider interest and the style far more enjoyable. It is in fact a monograph on the woods of the Helford River by the late Oliver Rackham, the leading historian and ecologist of British woods.

The Woodland Trust and Corpus Christi College, Cambridge, are seeking to raise funds to finish and publish this work and have launched an appeal, details of which can be seen at: https://www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/support-us/support-an-appeal/oliver- rackham/?utm_source=%2foliverrackham&utm_medium=furl

According to the organisers: ‘In 1986, he decided to write a number of distinct volumes on the ancient woods of Britain. Although only one was published, he worked on several others including The Woods of the Helford River, Cornwall. Sadly it was not quite completed and remained unpublished at the time of his death in 2015.’

A hint of what this work may contain can perhaps be found in Rackham’s description of a Lizard Peninsula walk in his The Illustrated History of the Countryside (Weidenfeld and Nicolson, 1994) where he describes Merthen Wood like this: ‘This is one of the finest coppiced oakwoods of the Celtic world, recorded back to the 13th century, known in Cornish as Coesenys and Cosabnack. It has seen the tin industry come and go, leaving charcoal-hearths scattered through the wood. A narrow sunken horsepath, walled on either side, leads down to the granite-built quay, the port of Constantine…’ This snippet shows what a masterly writer he was. Thanks are due to Graeme Kirkham for passing this information on.

Area Representatives would love to hear from fellow CAS members, and the general public, about any feature of the historic environment in their parishes, whether a new discovery, something causing concern, or even just to answer queries. If you have any concerns, or new information, about any archaeological feature, please contact the Area Representative for the parish. If you do not know who that is, just look at the inside back cover of the latest journal, Cornish Archaeology 55, or send an email to [email protected] .

Roger Smith, 31st July 2018