© Lonely Planet 620

INDEX Index

8 Hereen Street 243 Seremban 231 Bank Negara Museum & Art 8Q SAM 496 502-3 Gallery 103 100 Cintra Street 186 Taiping 171 Bario 458-63 Architecture Museum 242 Barisan Nasional (BN) 17, 40, 43-4 A Armenian Church 497 basketry 57 Abu Bakar 283 arts 53-9, see also individual arts Batang Ai 434 accommodation, see also individual Arts & Handicrafts Centre 579 Batang Baram 452 locations asam laksa 61, 191 Batang Duri 589 Brunei 590 Asian Civilisations Museum 495 Batang Lemanak 434 language 607-8 345 Batang Rejang 435-43, 435 Malaysia 466-8 Aur, Pulau 268 Batang Skrang 434 Singapore 530-6, 559 Ayer Keroh 253 bathrooms 476, 563 Acheen Street Mosque 185 batik 57, 288, 290, 310, 330 activities 83-7, see also individual B bats 76 activities Ba Kelalan 463 Battle Box Museum 496-7 372 499-500 131-2 Air Batang (ABC) 278-9 Baba-Nonya, see Peranakan people Batu Ferringhi 204-6, 204 Air Hangat Village 220 Baba-Nonya Heritage Museum Batu Punggul 397-8 air travel 243-4 Bau 428-9 airlines 480 Badan Warisan Malaysia 98, 99 beaches internet resources 480-1 Badawi, Abdullah 42-3 Air Batang (ABC) 278-9 to/from Brunei 481, 593-4 Bahasa Malaysia (Malay), see Bako National Park 424 to/from Malaysia 480-3 language Balok Beach 288 to/from Singapore 482, 564-5 Bako National Park 356, 423-5, Brunei 586-7 within Malaysia 484-5 424 Genting 281 Alor Gajah 254 Bakun Dam project 443 itineraries 28, 28 Alor Setar 211-14, 212 Balai Besar 211 Juara 280-1 Alpha Utara Gallery 186-7 Balik Pulau 201 Kampung Paya 281 ambuyat 60, 62, 584 Balok Beach 288 Kemasik 313 amusement parks, see theme parks Bandar 400-3, 402 Melina 281 animals 75-7, see also individual Bandar Seri Begawan 574-85, 576, Mukut 282 species 579 Nipah 282 animism 52-3 accommodation 581-2 Paka 313 apes 75 attractions 577-9 Pantai Cahaya Bulan 335 aquariums emergencies 575 Pantai Cenang 218 Aquaria KLCC 98 food 582-3 Pantai Irama 335 Underwater World (Pulau internet resources 575 Pantai Kok 218-19 Langkawi) 218 medical services 575 Pantai Pasir Hitam 219 Underwater World ( shopping 583 Pantai Seri Tujuh 335 Island) 510 tourist information 577 Pantai Tengah 218 archaeological sites 210, 426 tours 580-1 Pulau Besar 266-7 architecture 54-5 travel to/from 583 Pulau Langkawi 218 Ipoh 155 travel within 583-5 Pulau Mamutik 355 itineraries 28, 28 walking tour 579-80, 579 Pulau Manukan 354-5 182-3 Bangar 589 Pulau Pangkor 150 Putrajaya 136-7 Banggi, Pulau 369 Pulau Rawa 268 Banggi people 369 Pulau Sapi 355-6 000 Map pages Bangsar Baru 117-19, 118 Pulau Sibu 267 000 Photograph pages Bangunan Sultan Ibrahim 259 Pulau Tioman 274, 8 Bank Kerapu 329 Salang 279-80 INDEX 621

160 6 486 kayaking, rafting INDEX (B-C) see 384-5 Malaysia) 510 road rules 487 road signs 611 within Malaysia 126, 485-7 568-9 within Singapore Gunung Mulu National Park 455 Gunung Mulu National Park MacRitchie Reservoir 505 Melaka 253 Negara 297, Taman 590 National Park Ulu Temburong 486-7, 568 hire insurance 487 licences 486, 568 road distances (Peninsular accommodation 164-5 food 165 internet access 161 161 internet resources shopping 166 tea plantations 161-2 tourist information 161 tours 164 travel to/from 166 travel within 166-7 ConservationDanum Valley Area to/from Singapore 565-6 Singapore to/from within Malaysia 485 568 within Singapore Brunei 590 Malaysia 468 559 Singapore Butterfly & Reptile Sanctuary 253 Butterfly & Insect Kingdom Park Cameron Highlands 162 363 Kinabalu National Park Melaka 253 202 Penang 159 Rama Rama 102 Taman Carey, Pulau 140 Pulau Carey, Cape Rachado Reserve Forest 234 car travel camping 466, 532 canoeing, canopy walkways C cakes 63-4 162 Plantation Cameron Bharat Tea Cameron Highlands 159-67, business hours butterflies Butterworth 177-8 27 573 literature Fraser’s Hill see also see hides, salt licks Brunei, , 40, 44-5, 49 see see , 483, 484 484, 565-7 483-4 accommodation 590 climate 590-1 embassies & consulates 591 holidays 591 itineraries 27, 575, legal matters 591 maps 591 money 591 photography 592 population 19 postal services 592 telephone services 592 tourist information 592 travel to/from 592-4 travel within 594 visas 592 women travellers 592 to/from Brunei 594 to/from Malaysia 124-5, 483 health 597 593 to/from Brunei 261, 421, to/from Indonesia to/from Malaysia 483-4 261-2, 483, to/from Singapore to/from Thailand 227-8, 333-4, Brunei Museum 578-9 Bruneian people 46 499 Buddha Tooth Relic Temple 51-2 Bukit Chandu 507 Bukit China 245 Bukit Fraser, Bukit Gemok Reserve Forest 392 Bukit Kayu Hitam 226 Bukit Larut 172-3 Bukit Malawati 141 Bukit Reserve Nanas Forest 98 Bukit Reserve Nature Timah 505 bumbun bumiputra bus travel border crossings Boh Sungai Palas Tea Estate 161 Tea Palas Boh Sungai 162 Estate Boh Tea Bolkiah, Hassanal 19, 32 Sultan books 21, 23, , Botanical Gardens 200 Brinchang 159, 165, 166 35 Brooke, James 34-5, 405, 573 Brunei 18-19, 572-94, cycling see 61 52 384 505-6 Melaka 246 137 Putrajaya Sabah 399 529-30 Singapore Negara 298 Taman Fraser’s Hill 134-5 455 Gunung Mulu National Park 508-9 363 Kinabalu National Park 101 KL Bird Park 401 Labuan Bird Park Likas Bird Sanctuary 345 LangkawiPulau 217 Sabah 380 445 Similajau National Park Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve to/from Brunei 594 to/from Malaysia 483-4 566-7 to/from Singapore within Malaysia 485 568 within Singapore Bako National Park 424 Bako National Park Bario 459 Cape Rachado Reserve Forest 234 ConservationDanum Valley Area Singapore 510 Singapore Rhu 219-20 Tanjung Melano 429 Telok Chempedak 287 Teluk boating 83 boat trips Birthday of the Goddess of Mercy 471 Boat Quay 497 boat travel Bigfoot 270 Bilit 381-2 Bintulu 443-4 Birch, James WW 147 birds 76 bird-watching 76, 83 Beaufort 398 Beaufort Division 398 bedbugs 603 Bejalai Body Art 416-17 belacan Belaga 442-3 Belait Districts 587-9 bersilat ()Besar, Pulau 266-7 (Melaka)Besar, Pulau 253-4 Beserah 288 Betong Division 434 bicycle travel, INDEX cemeteries cell phones Changi Museum &Chapel503, Changi Museum 345-6 (KotaKinabalu) Central Market censorship 49-50 cendol caving 83, Chiling Waterfall 133 Chiling Waterfall children, travelwith TempleChettiar Hindu 498 Cherating 289-92, Cheong Fatt Tze 185 Mansion Cheng HoonTeng Temple 244 244-5 Cheng HoCulturalMuseum char kwayteow Changi Village503-4 caves cathedrals, 501 Cathay Gallery 414 Cat Museum 622 000 000 WWII Memorial (LabuanWar WWII Memorial Royal Cemetery501 Protestant Cemetery 506-7 Kranji WarMemorial Commonwealth AlliedWar China245 Bukit Singapore 562-3 476 Malaysia Tasik 312 Kenyir Caves451 Niah Ipoh 155-6 Gunung StongStatePark 336 Malaysia 468 Malaysia language 612 108-9 29, itineraries health 604-5 food 69 NationalParkGunung Mulu Gua WangBurma228 336-7 Gua Musang Gua Langsir220 228 Gua Kelam Gua Charas288 Gomantong caves380 Bau 428-9 Batu Caves131-2

Map pages Map Photograph pages 60 Cemetery) 401 183 town) (George 171 Cemetery (Taiping) 454-5, INDEX (C-D) INDEX see also see 11 churches&cathedrals 60 29 caves 289 12 (KualaLumpur) 98-101, Colonial District 494-7, Colonial District churches &cathedrals 103 Market Chow Kit Choon WanKong104 CHOGM Park 217 Chinese people46 coffee shops climate change481 climate 20 Quay497 Clarke clanhouses 184,186 436 Civic Centre Museum civets 75 City Mosque345 cinema 59 Chinese opera Chinese NewYear 471,473 Centre 499 Chinatown Heritage Chinatown (Singapore) 498-500, 243-4 Chinatown (Melaka) Chinatown ()413 courses costs 20-1 consulates 296,322 conservation 51-3 Commonwealth AlliedWarCemetery 105-7, Changi Museum &Chapel503, Changi Museum Armenian Church497 Singapore 559 468-9 Malaysia Brunei 590-1 St Peter’s Church245 St Paul’s Church243 &AllAngelsChurch St Michael’s Church183 St George’s St Andrew’s Cathedral497 Church oftheImmaculate 526-7 music 108 meditation 108 469 Malaysia language 108 dance 108,529 108,330,415,513,529 cooking batik 330 108 &crafts arts Singapore 560 470 Malaysia Brunei 591 171 (Taiping) 372 Conception 259 100 (kedai kopi) (wayang) , 106 517 56 64 12 cycling 83-4, migrans598 cutaneous larva customs regulations currency, culture 46-59 Crystal Mosque312 NationalPark Range 396 Crocker credit cards 57-9,108, crafts diving 84, disabilities, travellerswith traveller’s 601 diarrhoea, TempleDhammikarama 187 63-4 desserts 35 Dent, Arthur dengue fever 598 504 Dempsey Hill (DAP)18,43 Party Democratic Action dehydration 602-3 deforestation 80-1,383 Deerland 304 Deepavali 68,472,473 597 deep veinthrombosis(DVT) Dayang Bunting,Pulau 220 Dayang, Pulau 268 Area Danum Valley Conservation dangers 469-70,560 dance 55-6,108,122,552-3,529 D itineraries 29, itineraries health 601 Pulau Sibu267 Pulau Perhentian 320-1 220 Pulau Langkawi 315 Pulau Kapas Pulau Aur268 Layang 369-70 Singapore 512,567-8 246 Melaka 485 Malaysia Singapore 559-60 469 Malaysia Brunei 591 Singapore 562 475 Malaysia Brunei 591 Singapore 562 474-5 Malaysia shopping Singapore 513,529 pewtersmithing 108,196,529 Singapore 563 477 Malaysia 384-6 see also see also see also see also

inside frontcover 29 snorkelling mountainbiking handicrafts, handicrafts, INDEX 135 623

museums parks & reserves INDEX (D-G) see also see also Art Gallery 103 139 Sains Malaysia) 200 497-8 101-2 Cathay Gallery 501 Galeri Diraja Sultan Abdul Aziz Galeri Air 283 Pengangkutan Galeri Sultan Azlan Shah 168 galleries 122 Kuala Lumpur Museum & Art Gallery (Universiti National Art Gallery 103 GalleryRoyal Pewter City GallerySingapore 499 ArtYahong Gallery 204 Lake Gardens (Seremban) 231 Mandai Orchid Gardens 505 Mist Garden 436 National Orchid Garden 501 Robertson Rose Garden 161-2 Botanic GardensSingapore 501 Botani 137 Taman 170 Taiping Tasik Taman Alpha Utara Gallery 186-7 Bank Negara Malaysia Museum & Botanical Gardens 200 Lake Gardens (Kuala Lumpur) regional specialities 65-7 specialities regional 536-47 67, Singapore (FRIM) 132 Fort 434 Alice Fort 183-4 Cornwallis Fort 510 Siloso 440 Kota Belanda 150 Kota Kuala 214-15 G galleries, Garama 399 gardens, 495 Gawai Dayak 471 gay travellers 120, 472-3, 548, 560 Gaya, 356 Pulau Gelanggang Seni 330 Genting 281 Genting Highlands 132-3 geography 74 fruit 64 Hotel 498 Fullerton Forestry ResearchForestry Institute of Malaysia Fort 496-7 Park Canning forts Fraser’s Hill (Bukit Fraser) 134-6, 67

see also , 9 , inside front cover

8 , see 7 (kari kepala ikan) kepala (kari 11 471 472 377 495, Batang Rejang 441 Birthday of the Goddess of Mercy 471, 473 Deepavali 68, 472, 473 472 Dragon Boat Festival food 68 Gawai Dayak 471 Kartikai Deepam 472 Kota Bharu 331 109 Kuala Lumpur Malaysia 470-2 Melaka 246 Miri 448 472 Moon Cake Festival 189 Penang LangkawiPulau 221 Rainforest World Music Festival 235 Raptor Watch Festival 530 Singapore Sri Krishna Jayanti 472 Thaipusam 52, 189, 471, 473 individual foods Bario 463 Brunei 584 courses 108, 330, 415, 513, 529 customs 69-70 etiquette 70 68 festivals hawker 68, 537, 542 centres health 602 350 language 70-3 Malaysia 65-7, 472 Melaka 249 environmental issues 38, 78, 79-82, issues 38, environmental 503 Escape Theme Park the Bay on Esplanade – Theatres ethnic tensions 39-40, 49 ethnic tensions exchange rates, card 566 EZ-Link F fabrics 57 festivals filariasis 598 film 59 140-1, 290, 399 fireflies fish spas 107 fish-head curry fishing 83, 298, 312 food 22, 60-73, see also

see also inside front cover car travel 269 see 63 60 Brunei 590 Malaysia 467 558 Singapore Brunei 591 Malaysia 470 560 Singapore Bandar Seri Begawan 575 Kota Kinabalu 344 94 Kuala Lumpur Kuching 412 language 609 Melaka 242 LangkawiPulau 215 560 Singapore 276, 426, 432, 509 269-71, GreenDex Pulau Tioman 275-6 Tioman Pulau diving 85 responsible Semporna 386-7 Semporna 388-91 Archipelago 388-9 Sipadan 386-7, 445 elephants 76, 296, 303-4, 380 embassies Emerald Hill Rd 502 emergencies, Emergency, the 37, 39 species 76, 77, 141, 169, endangered Endau 283 Endau-Rompin National Park electricity E 503 East Coast Park East India Company (EIC) 33-4 economy 17, 18, 19, 40, 41-2, 47-8 ecotourism 22, 201, 347, dou fu Base 186 Sen’s Penang Dr Sun Yat 472 Dragon Boat Festival drama 55-6 drinking 601 water drinks 64-5 driving, dolphins 275, 276, 408, 426, 427, 408, 426, 427, dolphins 275, 276, dosa driving licences 486, 568 drugs 18, 560 dugong 76 Dungun 313-14 durian 64 220 Durian Perangin Dutch influence 33 dysentery, amoebic 601 INDEX Hari Raya Puasa 473 Raya Hari hantu jarang gigi NationalParkGunung Mulu 452-8, Gunung Ledang NationalPark 263-4 210-11 Gunung Jerai NationalParkGunung Gading 429 Gua WangBurma228 336-7 Gua Musang Gua Langsir220 228 Gua Kelam Gua Charas288 Gomantong caves380 golf 84 giardiasis 601 502 WetMarket Serai Geylang 502 Geylang handicrafts 219,420,579, handicrafts 346 Market Handicraft Fatimah Mosque501 Hajjah Hainan Temple 185 H Gurney, SirHenry37,39 Gunung StongStatePark 336 220 Gunung Raya 461 Gunung Murud 179-98, Georgetown 624 000 000 Ghost) 270 crafts also individual Singapore 512 Pulau Tioman 277 217,219 Pulau Langkawi Penang 188 254 Melaka 135 Fraser’s Hill tour188-9, walking travel within197-8 travel to/from196-7 tours 189 information182 tourist shopping 195-6 181-2 medical services internet access181 food 191-4 festivals 189 195 entertainment 195 drinking 182-7 attractions 188 activities accommodation 189-91 453

Map pages Map Photograph pages , INDEX (G-I) INDEX 11 (Snaggle-toothed (Snaggle-toothed 180 188 see Hutan Rekreasi Air Keroh 253 AirKeroh Hutan Rekreasi 508 Hua SongMuseum hot springs 507 HortPark Hong SanSiTemple 413 TempleHong SanSee 498 homestays 201,309,401,429,467 Holland Village504 holidays 20 Hock SoonTemple 264 308 Ho AnnKiong HIV 599 hitching 487 242 &EthnographyMuseum History history 30-45 52-3 Hinduism Henderson Waves507, heat exhaustion602-3 health 595-605 Headhunters Trail356,455-6 headhunters 407 centres 68,537,542 hawker Haw Par Villa508 Tom462 Harrison, hill-tribe communities, hill-tribe hill stations hiking, hides 298, 192 properties heritage hepatitis 598 Images ofSingapore 510 Anwar17,41-2, 43-5 Ibrahim, Iban people433, I Tawau Park Hills 394 365-6 HotSprings Poring Air HangatVillage220 Singapore 560 473-4 Malaysia Brunei 591 peoples vaccinations 595-6 language 609 internet resources 597 insurance 595 597 government advisories food 602 children 604-5 books 597 Genting Highlands 133-4 Highlands Genting Fraser)134-6, (Bukit Fraser’s Hill 159-67, Cameron Highlands Larut172-3 Bukit 135 see trekking, walking trekking, see also 12 saltlicks 12 see indigenous 160 Imbi market 115, Imbi market itineraries 24-9, itineraries Istana NurulIman579 TunggalIstana Mangga 283 Istana Lama233 Istana Kota168 168 Istana Kenangan 329 Istana Jahar 168 Istana Iskandariah 259 Serene Istana Bukit Istana Budaya104 Istana Besar233 Istana Batu330 139 Istana AlamShah Istana 502 islands, 242,413 Islamic Museum 102 Museum Islamic Arts Islam 19,31-2,42,50-1 Region Development Iskandar Irrawaddy dolphins408,426,427 indigenous peoples Indian people46 Ipoh 153-8, internet resources 23 internet access (ISA)40-1 Act Internal Security insurance bites603 insect influenza 599 Singapore 26,493, Sarawak 25, 27, Sabah 25, 27, Sabah Kuala Lumpur 95 Brunei 27,575, planning 257 Iban 433, Banggi 369 travel advisories 470 travel advisories Singapore 561 health 597 Brunei 575 480-1 air tickets Singapore 561 474 Malaysia travel 474 health 595 car 487 Rungus 368 48,193 Peranakan Orang Ulu425 Orang Asli38,294,299 130,230,233 Minangkabau 346,368 Kadazan-Dusun see Pulau 154 12 24-9 25 10 27 25 , , 27 , see also 26 27

INDEX , 100 625 , 100 108

96 100 , , 308 118 106 92-3 422 , 410 286 INDEX (J-K) 106 accommodation 416-18 attractions 412-14 Chinatown 413 courses 415 drinking 419-20 emergencies 412 entertainment 419-20 416 festivals food 418-19 internet access 412 medical services 412 shopping 420, 421 tourist information 412 tours 415-16 travel to/from 420-1 accommodation 109-12 accommodation activities 104-5 attractions 95-104 Bangsar Baru 117-19, 105-7, Chinatown 98-101, courses 108 drinking 119-21 entertainment 121-2 109 festivals food 65-6, 113-19 history 91 internet access 94 itineraries 95 98-9 Jalan Petaling Little India 102-3, 107-8, medical services 94 shopping 122 tourist information 95 tours 109 travel to/from 124-6 travel within 126-8 walking tours 105-8, (KLIA) 124, 480 Kuan Im Thong Hood Cho Temple 497 Kuan Im Thong Hood Cho Temple 436 Kuan Yin Pagoda 184-5 Kuan Yin Teng Kuantan 285-7, Kubah 427 National Park Kuching 409-23, Kuala Lumpur City Centre (KLCC) 95-8 (KLCC) City Centre Kuala Lumpur International AirportKuala Lumpur Train Station 102 Kuala Lumpur 398 Kuala Penyu 227 Kuala Kuala Pilah234 Kuala Selangor 140-2 Kuala Sepetang 173-4 307-11, Kuala Kuala Lumpur 90-128, 90-128, Kuala Lumpur , 358 334 , 342 6 328 359 clanhouses 5 68 , see

accommodation 347-9 attractions 344-7 drinking 351-2 emergencies 344 entertainment 351-2 food 349-51 history 343 internet access 344 medical services 344 shopping 352 tourist information 344 tours 347 travel to/from 352-3 travel within 353-4 303-4 Centre 361 363-4 accommodation climbing trails 360-4 food 364-5 history 357 information 358-60 via ferrata walking 363 311 Terengganu Monastery 506 Kota Kinabalu 341-54, Kota Kuala Kedah 214-15 Kota Mahsuri 217-18 Kranji Countryside Association 506 Kranji War Memorial506-7 Kuah 216-17 Kuala Belait 589 Kuala Besut 319 Kuala Gandah Elephant Conservation Kuala Kangsar 167-9 Kuala Kedah 214-15 Kuala Kubu Bharu (KKB) 133-4 Kuala Lipis 302-3 kites 58 KK Heritage Walk 344 101 KL Bird Park KL Design Week 109, Klang 139-40 137-40 Klang Valley Klias 399 Kompleks Muzium Negeri Kompleks Sejarah 147 Salak Pasir Kong Meng San Phor Kark See kongsi, KOPEL 201 kopitiam Kota Belanda 150 Kota Belud 367-8 Kota Bharu 327-34, Kinabalu National Park 357-65, Kinabalu Park National see 458 10 522 258 10 326 293 (fish-head curry) 67 208 256 440 Adidas 352 rafting, white-water rafting also 577-8 325-37, Kellie’s Castle 158-9 Kemasik 313 Keningau 397 Kenong 303 Rimba State Park Kent 507 Ridge Park Ketam, 140 Pulau Ketam 504 Mountain Bike Park 184 Kiansom Waterfall 346 Kim Choo’s Kitchen 503 Kinabalu International Climbathon 362 Kek Lok Tong 156 Kelabit Highlands 356, 458-63, Temple 199-200, Kek Lok Si Temple Kapit Museum 440 ikan kepala kari Kartikai Deepam 472 Katong 502-3 Katong Antique House 503 kayaking 84-5, 133, 221, 290, 513, Kampung Annah Rais 428 Kampung 103 Baru Kampung Chitty 245 Kampung Kling Mosque 244 Kampung Kuantan 140-1 Kampung 279 Panuba Kampung 281 Paya Kampung Sungai Bumbon 140 Kangar 227 Kapas, 315-16 Pulau Kapit 439-42, Kedah 207-26, Kampong 500-1, Glam kampung Kadazan-Dusun people 346, 368 Kampong 578, Ayer K Juara 280-1 508-9 Jurong Bird Park 257-63, Jerejak, Pulau 200 Jerejak, Pulau Jerudong585-6 Playground 585-6 Jerudong Park jet lag 597 Johor 255-71, Japanese B encephalitis 599 Japanese B encephalitis Jefri, Prince 574, 587 Jerantut 292-4, J 588 Jalan Labi BolkiahJame’Asr Hassanil Mosque INDEX leopards 75 Leong Temple SanSee 500 Bujang 210 Lembah legal matters leeches 602 Lee KuanYew 18,38,39,45 Lee HsienLoong18,45 Lazarus Island511 Layang 369-70 Lawas 465 laundry 561 378-9 Lankayan langurs 75 language 49,606-12, BirdParadise 217 Langkawi Langkawi, 31 kingdom Lang Tengah, Pulau 318-19 38 land rights NationalParkLambir Hills 448 TitiwangsaLake 103 231 (Seremban) Gardens Lake (KualaLumpur) 101-2 Gardens Lake Datu383-4 Lahad DalamTamanLagenda Langkawi 217 Labuk BayProboscisMonkey 401 Labuan Museum ParkLabuan Marine 401 Labuan BirdPark 401 Labuan, Pulau 400-3, TunnelsLabrador Secret 507-8 507-8 L Kusu Island511 365 Memorial 263 Kukup 234 Kanthaswamy Kuil Sri Kudat 368 Kuching WetlandsNationalPark 427 Kuching 626 000 000 Singapore 561 474 Malaysia Brunei 591 70-3 food &drink courses 108 front cover Sanctuary 376-7 Sanctuary Labuan tour414-15, walking travel within421-3

Map pages Map Photograph pages INDEX (K-M) INDEX continued see Pulau Langkawi Pulau see also see

414 also Bandar

inside Little India(Singapore) 500, Little India(KualaLumpur) 102-3, 242 Literature Museum literature 21,23,53-4 KongTempleLin Je 150 464 Museum Limbang Regional Limbang Division464-5 Limbang 464-5 345 BirdSanctuary Likas Light, Francis34,187 Lian ShanShuangLinMonastery506 lesbian travellers120,472-3,548,560 leptospirosis 599 Lorong Buangkok’s Loo Pun Hong185 longhouses 430-1,467 103 Mansion Loke Wildlife ParkLok Kawi 346-7 lizards 77 Malaysia 17-18,90-489 Malaysia 37 IndianCongress (MIC) Malayan ChineseAssociation(MCA)37 Malayan FederationMalaya, of36-7 people46,55 Malay Centre 501 Heritage Malay 599-600 malaria Jama-AthMosque Muslim Malabar (Rumah Birthplace Mahathir’s 31 MohammedShah Maharaja magazines 558 505 Reservoir MacRitchie macaques 75,276,424,425 316 Turtle Sanctuary Daerah Ma’ M Lumut 147-8 Lost WorldofTambun 158 107-8, planning 430 Kudat 368 463 Highlands Kelabit Jalan Labi588 etiquette 431 Bidayuh 428 Batang Ai434 459 Bario holidays 473-4 food 65-7,472 475-6 fax services embassies &consulates 470 climate 468-9 accommodation 466-8 501 Mohamad, Mahathir 213, Mahathir) Kelahiran 100 kampung 522 509 see also , 11

Maliau Basin Conservation Area BasinConservation Maliau NationalDay Malaysia’s 109,138,471 GrandPrix Malaysian Marang 314-15, Marang maps Pulau 345-5 Manukan, PulauMantanani, 369 505 OrchidGardens Mandai PulauMamutik, 355 mamak 281 Melina marine parks79 marine 401 Museum Marine CulturalVillage346 Mari Mari markets 69 markets 243 Museum Maritime 394-6, 473 Kebangsaan) (Hari work 479 women travellers478-9 visas 477-8 travel within484-9 travel to/from480-4 tours 488 information476-7 tourist 475-6 telephone services scams 469-70 475 postal services population 17,48-9 money 474-5 maps 474 legal matters474 internet access474 Singapore 561 474 Malaysia Brunei 591 Pulau Perhentian 319-24, Pulau Payar Park Marine 220-1 315-16 Pulau Kapas ParkLabuan Marine 401 Imbi market 115, Imbi market 346 Market Handicraft 502 WetMarket Serai Geylang 103 Market Chow Kit (KotaKinabalu) Central Market (KotaBharu)333 Central Market Bangsar Baru117 Turtle IslandsNationalPark 379 National Tunku AbdulRahman ParkTun Marine 388 Sakaran Archipelago266-8 Seribuat Pulau Tioman 274-82, Pulau 317-18 Redang 345-6 Park 354 65 395 315 10 275 321 , 8 , 7 INDEX 627

see rock

see also see also , 5 galleries INDEX (M) 9 see also cycling 243-4 Art Gallery 103 Climbathon 362 Aziz Shah 138-9 311 577, Bank Kerapu 329 Bank Negara Malaysia Museum & Battle Box Museum 496-7 8Q SAM 496 KeithAgnes House 372 Architecture Museum 242 Asian Civilisations Museum 495 Baba House 499-500 Baba-Nonya Heritage Museum climbing, trekking 263-4 Gunung Ledang Gunung Mulu 456-7 298 Gunung Tahan Kinabalu International Mt Kinabalu 360-3 Mt Trus Madi 396-7 also Kinabalu National Park 137 Putra 103 Sikh Temple State Mosque 345 Sultan Abdullah Mosque 283 Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque 259 Sultan Mosque 500-1 Zainal 309 within Malaysia 485-7 568 within Singapore Masjid Tengku Tengah Zaharah Tengah Masjid Tengku Masjid Ubudiah 168 Masjid Zahir 213 Muzium Raja Di 168 Mosque Omar Ali Saifuddien MasjidSalahuddin Sultan Abdul mountain climbing 85, Mountbatten Road 503 MRT 567, 569 566, 507 Mt Faber Mt Kinabalu 357-65, Mt Trus Madi 396-7 Muar 263 Muara 586-7 Mudzaffar Shah 31 Mukut 282 multiculturalism 49 Multimedia Super Corridor 41 museums, motion sickness 597 motorcycle travel mountain biking 84, 504, 512, inside

238 inside front

see see also 265 see also individual species 446 577-8 501 139 tours 246 252 travel to/from travel within 253 Malaysia 476 562-3 Singapore front cover Brunei 591 Malaysia 474-5 562 Singapore Abu Bakar Mosque 283 Mosque 185 Acheen Street City Mosque 345 312 Hajjah Mosque 501 Fatimah Jame’Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque Kampung Kling Mosque 244 Kompleks Sejarah Salak 147 Pasir Malabar Muslim Jama-Ath Mosque Masjid Al-Hana 217 Masjid Di Raja Sultan Suleiman Masjid Jamek 103 Masjid KampungBaru 103 Masjid KampungHulu 244 Masjid KampungLaut 334-5 Masjid Kapitan Keling 186 Masjid Negara 102 Masjid Negeri 187 cover Melaka (state) 237-54, Melaka 31 empire Melaka Zoo 253 Melayu (MIB) 574 Islam Beraja Menara213 Alor Star Menara KL 98 Menumbok 399 Merang 316-17 Merdeka 37-9 Merdeka 99-101 Square Merimbun 588 Heritage Park 494 Mersing 264-6, Mesilau Resort Nature 365 metric conversions, Mist Garden 436 mobile phones Mohamad, Mahathir 40-1, 42-3, 213 money 20-1, 560, monkeys 75, Monsopiad Cultural Village 346 Minangkabau people 130, 230, 233 Miri 445-50, health 240 see also 367 inside front cover

tamu see also accommodation 246 activities 245-6 attractions 242-5 Chinatown 243-4 drinking 251 emergencies 242 entertainment 251 246 festivals food 249 internet access 242 medical services 242 shopping 251-2 tourist information 242 Chinese 604 folk 604 traditional 604 Brunei 590 Malaysia 467 558 Singapore Shah 138-9 569 173-4 Kuala Lumpur 123 Kuala Lumpur Night Market 345 MarketPudu 104 Saberkas Weekend Market 447 Sunday Market 117 Wang Kelian Market Sunday 228 Weekend Market 413-14 Kota Belud Kota Belud megaliths 461 Melaka (city) 239-53, medicine Medan Portugis 245 medical services 598, Masjid Tengku Tengah Zaharah Tengah 311 Masjid Tengku Masjid Ubudiah 168 Masjid Zahir 213 Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) 566, 567, massage 104-5, 218, 245-6, 513 Matang Mangrove Reserve Forest 427-8 Matang Centre Wildlife measles 600 measures, Marudi 452 Masjid Al-Hana 217 Masjid Di Raja 139 Sultan Suleiman Masjid Jamek 103 Masjid Kampung Baru 103 Masjid Kampung Hulu 244 Masjid Kampung Laut 334-5 Masjid Kapitan Keling 186 Masjid Negara 102 Masjid Negeri 187 Masjid Sultan Salahuddin Abdul Aziz INDEX museums 628 000 000 Penang 201 WarMuseum Penang 184 Museum Penang 185 IslamicMuseum 132 Orang AsliMuseum 508 NUS Museums 450-1 ArchaeologyMuseum Niah ofSingapore National Museum 102 National Museum 242 Rakyat Muzium PerakMuzium 171 PadiMuzium 213 Perlis Negeri Muzium 227 330 Kelantan Negeri Muzium 213,231 Negeri Muzium 227 KotaKayang Muzium Islam329 Muzium 259 DirajaAbuBakar Muzium 212 DiRaja Muzium 156 DarulRidzuan Muzium 210 Arkeologi Muzium 283 SultanAbuBakar Museum ofCustom&Tradition Museum (Universiti Gallery &Art Museum 243 Museum Maritime 401 Museum Marine Centre 501 Heritage Malay 242 Literature Museum 464 Museum Limbang Regional 401 Labuan Museum Negeri Kompleks Muzium 440 Museum Kapit 329 Istana Jahar Istana Batu330 242,413 Islamic Museum 102 Museum Islamic Arts Images ofSingapore 510 508 Hua SongMuseum &EthnographyMuseum History CanningPark 496-7 Fort 436 Civic Centre Museum Centre 499 Chinatown Heritage 244-5 Cheng HoCulturalMuseum Changi Museum &Chapel503, Changi Museum 414 Cat Museum 578-9 Brunei Museum

Map pages Map Photograph pages 494-5 254 200 Sains Malaysia) Terengganu 311 242 INDEX (M-P) INDEX continued 12 music 56-7,108,121 NUS Museums 508 NUS Museums noodles 61-2 282 Nipah 504-5 Night Safari 345 Night Market NationalPark 450-2 Niah 450-1 ArchaeologyMuseum Niah newspapers 229-36, Sembilan Negeri 102 National Planetarium national parks78-9, 501 National OrchidGarden ofSingapore 494-5 National Museum 102 National Museum National Monument102 Nasional)17, National Front(Barisan Kebangsaan) National Day(Hari 103 Gallery National Art nasi lemak Nabau 441 N orchids 78 Orchard Rd501-2,557-9, orang-utans 75,346-7,375-7,379, Orang Ulupeople425 Gypsies)32 Orang Laut(Sea Orang Aslipeople38,294,299 132 Orang AsliMuseum Omar AliSaifuddienMosque577, Discovery Centre 588 Oil &Gas O Teck 392 Guan CocoaMuseum Singapore ScienceCentre 509 496 Museum Singapore Art 413 Sarawak Museum Complex345 Museum Sabah 577 Museum Royal Regalia ofBiodiversity Museum Raffles 496 Museum Peranakan Singapore 558 50,467 Malaysia Brunei 590 parks, parks&reserves 40, 43-4 472 Orchidville 505 Orchid DeVilla Farm 346 501 National OrchidGarden 505 OrchidGardens Mandai NationalParkKinabalu 363 428, 434, Research 508 Research 61 9 see also 230 524 marine marine , 557 9 overdevelopment 81-2 overdevelopment parks & reserves, parks &reserves, parasites 604 Parameswara 32,238, 239 Pantai Tengah 218 Pantai Tujuh Seri 335 Pantai Pasir 219 Hitam Pantai Kok218-19 Pantai Irama335 Pantai Cenang218 Bulan335 Pantai Cahaya Pantai Acheh201-2 pangolin 76,448 Pangkor, Pulau 148-53, palm oil78,80 palang palaces (PR)17,43,44 Rakyat Pakatan 313 Paka 272-304, 329 Padang Merdeka Padang 217-18 Matsirat Padang Besar227-8 P Taman 102 Orkid Penang 202 Bako NationalPark 423-5, Istana NurulIman579 TunggalIstana Mangga 283 Istana Lama233 Istana Kota168 168 Istana Kenangan 329 Istana Jahar 168 Istana Iskandariah 259 Serene Istana Bukit Istana Budaya104 Istana Besar233 Istana Batu330 139 Istana AlamShah Istana (Singapore) 502 Gunung Gading National ParkGunung Gading CanningPark 496-7 Fort Institute of Forestry Research Endau-Rompin NationalPark East CoastPark 503 NationalPark Range 396 Crocker CHOGM Park 217 234 Forest Reserve Cape Rachado 505 Timah Nature Reserve Bukit 98 NanasForest Reserve Bukit 392 Forest Reserve Gemok Bukit 438 429 (FRIM)132 Malaysia 269-71, 269 see also 273 149 gardens 424 INDEX 629 7 ,

Bandar 8 , 321 216 149 275 see also Penang INDEX (P) see Labuan Brunei 592 Malaysia 475 562 Singapore accommodation 221-4 drinking 225 221 festivals food 224-5 internet access 215 215-16 internet resources medical services 215 tourist information 216 travel to/from 225 travel within 225-6 Pulau Lang Tengah 318-19 Lang Tengah Pulau LangkawiPulau 215-26, Poring Hot Springs 365-6 Port Dickson 234-6 Portade Santiago 242-3 Portuguese influence 32-3 postal services proboscis monkeys 75, 377, 379, 424 Protestant Cemetery 183 MarketPudu 104 Aur 268 Pulau 369 Banggi Pulau Besar (Johor)Pulau 266-7 Besar (Melaka)Pulau 253-4 140 Carey Pulau Dayang 268 Pulau Dayang Bunting 220 Pulau GayaPulau 356 Jerejak 200 Pulau KapasPulau 315-16 KetamPulau 140 Labuan 400-3, Pulau Pulau RawaPulau 268 Redang 317-18 Pulau Sapi 355-6 Pulau Selirong 587 Pulau Sibu 267-8 Pulau Sulug 356-7 Pulau 399-400 National Park Tiga Pulau 206 Tikus Pulau 268 Tinggi Pulau 274-82, Tioman 504 Pulau Pulau MamutikPulau 355 MantananiPulau 369 ManukanPulau 354-5 148-53, Pangkor Pulau 220-1 Marine Payar Park Pulau 268 Pemanggil Pulau 319-24, Perhentian Pulau Pinang, Pulau 7 , 321 see also see also , Penang 176 visas see 145 284 208 see also itineraries Brunei 19, 49 Malaysia 17, 48-9 18, 49 Singapore Kinabalu National Park 359 Kinabalu National Park Sabah 340, 341 Sarawak 407-8 Sipadan 389 Negara 296 Taman Brunei 592 Malaysia 476 563 Singapore Georgetown 493 Pinang Peranakan MansionPinang 186 the 456 Pinnacles, piracy 32 planning 20-3, 470, 560, plants 78 politics 17-19, 146 pollution 601 population Perak constitutional crisis 146 Perak Tong 155 Perak 496 Peranakan people 48, 193 Peranakan terrace houses 502-3 319-24, Pulau Perhentian, 226-8, Perlis permits, Jaya 137-8 Petaling 47 Petronas Towers 95, 98 Petronas pewter 58, 123, 196, 497-8 pewtersmithing 108, 196, 529 phonecards photography 475, 592 Pulau, Pinang, Pelabuhan Klang 139-40 Pelabuhan 268 Pulau Pemanggil, 175-206, Penang Hill (BukitPenang Bendera) 198-9 Islamic Museum 185 Penang Museum 184 Penang 203 National Park Penang War Museum 201 Penang Pengkalan Kubor 336 18, 37, Action PartyPeople’s (PAP) Alliance 17, 44 People’s Reserve Forest Peradayan 589-90 143-74, Perak Park 503 Ris Park Pasir passports 480 220-1 Marine Pulau Payar Park, Pekan 283-4, 6 , 295 355 5 29 , 11 361

, , Park 354-7, Park (Selingan) 379 358 427 173-4 376 505-6 141 Park Nature 263-4 453 43, 327 Taman Negara Perlis 228 Negara Perlis Taman Islam 311-12 Tamadu Taman Wetland 137 Taman Rafflesia ReserveTambunan 396 432 Datu National Park Tanjung 394 Hills Park Tawau Bahang Reserve Forest Teluk 202 Abdul RahmanTunku National Islands National Park Turtle 590 National Park Ulu Temburong Kubah 427 Park National Kuching Wetlands National Park ReserveLabrador Nature 507-8 448 Lambir Hills National Park MacRitchie Reservoir 505 Matang Mangrove Reserve Forest Merimbun 588 Heritage Park Niah 450-2 Park National 503 Ris Park Pasir 203 National Park Penang Reserve Forest Peradayan 589-90 399-400 National Park Tiga Pulau 458 National Park Tau Pulong Rainforest (RDC) Discovery Centre 169 Royal Belum State Park Sabah 397 Agricultural Park 444-5 Similajau National Park Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve 432-3 National Park Talang-Satang Alam Kuala Selangor Taman Negara 294-302, Taman Gunung Mulu National Park 452-8, Gunung MuluNational Park 336 Park Gunung Stong State HortPark 507 Hutan Rekreasi Air Keroh 253 itineraries 29, 508-9 Jurong Bird Park Kenong 303 Rimba State Park Kent 507 Ridge Park 357-65, Kinabalu National Park Gunung Ledang National Park Park National Ledang Gunung Parti Keadilan Rakyat (PKR) 18, 43 Parti Perikatan 39, 40 (PP) 37, Parti Islam se-Malaysia (PAS) 18, Parti se-Malaysia Islam (PAS) INDEX rhinoceros, Sumatran76,169,269, rhinoceros, resthouses 467-8 responsible travel21-3,85,86-7 495 WorldSentosa Resorts 58 Reshmonu reserves, reserves, reptiles 77, religion 47,50-3 PulauRedang, 317-18 TunRazak, Abdul42 Najib17-18,43,44 Razak, Abdul44 Razak, Pulau 268 Rawa, WatchFestivalRaptor 235 Abang314 Rantau 365 68,471 Ramadan Festival WorldMusic Rainforest 472 376 DiscoveryCentre (RDC) Rainforest rainforest 78,80, Tunku Abdul37,38 Rahman, 84-5,133, rafting rafflesias 159,396,429,432 ofBiodiversity Museum Raffles Hotel496 Raffles SirThomasStamford33-4, Raffles, radio 41,49,91, race riots rabies 600 Quays, the497-8, Q pythons 77 Puu JihShihTemple 372 Putrajaya 136-7 Putra Mosque137 Pun Tumid 459 Pulong Tau NationalPark 458 630 R 000 000 386 &reserves sanctuaries trekking, walking trekking, walkways, parks&reserves, rafting white-water 508 Research 493 Singapore 558 467 Malaysia Brunei 590 tensions

Map pages Map Photograph pages INDEX (P-S)INDEX see see alsoindividualspecies parks & reserves, wildlife parks&reserves, seealso see also 517 see also canopy kayaking, kayaking, ethnic Rungus people368 Penghulu 98 Rumah Mahathir Kelahiran Rumah Bebe503 Rumah rubber trees 168 Pewter 497-8 Royal Selangor Gallery Club99 Royal Selangor 577 Museum Royal Regalia Royal Cemetery501 Royal BelumStatePark 169 Roufo Gumiao259 roti canai rock climbing276,461,512, 161-2 RoseGarden Robertson Quay498 Robertson roads, river cruises, river 132 Dahan Rimbun 61-2 rice 370-5, Sandakan San ChingTian temple447 Sam SingKungTemple 372 Sam PohTong156 Sam PohTemple 162 Sam KowTongTemple 104 salt licks298,459 Salang 279-80 Sala Pattivetaya 336 Temple BuddhaGaya Muni Sakaya 447 Market Weekend Saberkas Complex345 Museum Sabah Park Agricultural 397 Sabah 25,27,338-403, Sabah S Seberang PeraiSeberang 177-8 seafood 62 Gypsies(OrangLaut)32 Sea sculpture 498 scams 208,283,469-70 AcuteRespiratory SARS (Severe 413 Sarawak Museum Sarawak CulturalVillage425-7 Sarawak 25,27,404-65, Sapi, Pulau 356 426 Santubong rockcarvings Santubong Peninsula (Damai)425-7 546 Sanmugam, Devagi Park Memorial 372 Sandakan deathmarches373 Sandakan Archipelago378-9 Sandakan (Mahathir’s Birthplace) 213 Birthplace) (Mahathir’s mountain climbing (Temple of1000Lights)500 (Temple Syndrome) 600 see 60 cartravel see boattrips 371 25 25 , , 27 27 see also , , 339 406

Selangor 129-42, Selangor FallsSekayu 312 Sibu 435-9, Siang Ti 413 Miao shopping shophouses 55,302,413 Alam138-9 Shah shadow-puppet theatre Altantuya44 Shaariibuu, Archipelago266-8 Seribuat 433 Serian 588-9 Seria 231-3, Seremban Rehabilitation Orang-Utan Sepilok 375-8 Sepilok 138 Sepang Island509-11 Sentosa Archipelago388-91 Semporna 386-8 Semporna Wildlife Rehabilitation Semenggoh 429-32 Sematan PulauSelirong, 587 Singapore 18,492-569, Similajau NationalPark 444-5 silver 58 silat TempleSikh 103 Sibu, Pulau 267-8 walking tour557-9, walking souvenirs 123 music 556 fashion 123,555-6 equipment420,555 electronic 123,195-6,310,420,554-5 crafts cameras 555 batik 310 122,195-6,420,554-5 art antiques 195,554-5 kulit) 375-6, Centre (SORC) Centre 428 internet access 561 holidays 560 food 67,536-47 festivals 530 562 fax services 550-3 entertainment embassies &consulates560 547-50 drinking 494-7, Colonial District climate 559 Chinatown 498-500, 494-512 attractions 512-13 activities accommodation 530-6,559 52 55,58,330 see also 437 markets 130 232 557 514-28 (wayang 526-7 9 517 , 11 INDEX 631

6 , beaches 295 GreenDex see also see 170 392 INDEX (S-T) 161 566 to/from Singapore within Malaysia 487-8 569 within Singapore accommodation 299-301 boat trips 298-9 emergency services 295 food 301 internet access 295 permits 296 planning 297 tourist information 296 tours 299 travel to/from 301-2 trekking 296-9 Park 141 Park swimming 105, 513, swimming 105, 99 Temple Sze Ya Tawau Hills Park 394 Hills Park Tawau taxi travel tea 64 tea plantations 159, 161-2 Taman Negara Perlis 228 Negara Perlis Taman Orkid 102 Taman Rama Rama 102 Taman Islam 311-12 Tamadu Taman 170 Taiping Tasik Taman Wetland 137 Taman 396 Tambunan Rafflesia ReserveTambunan 396 Rata 159-61, 164-5, 165-6, Tanah Bidara 254 Tanjung 432 Datu National Park Tanjung Rhu 219-20 Tanjung 51-2 147 Tapah tapirs 76, 169, 294, 298, 303 Merimbun 588 Tasek Chini 288 Tasik Kenyir 312-13 Tasik 391-4, Tawau T Reserve Wildlife 386 Tabin 169-172, Taiping 432-3 National Park Talang-Satang Selangor Alam Kuala Nature Taman Botani 137 Taman Mini Malaysia/Asean 253 Taman Negara 294-302, Taman Sungai Pinang 201-2 Sungai Pinang Wetland ReserveSungei Buloh 505-6 138 Sunway Lagoon surfing 85, 268, 290, 291 sustainable travel, 10 12 caving see Park 356 Park Pulau Tioman 275 Tioman Pulau Semporna 388 Archipelago Tawau 391 Tawau 367 Tuaran Rahman Abdul Tunku National Brunei) 574, 578 386 499 244 Temple 162 Kampong Ayer 578, Southern Ridges 507, stings 603 Suffolk House 187 Sukau 381 Sultan Abdul Aziz Shah Airport 124 Sultan Abdul Samad Building 99 Sultan Abdullah Mosque 283 Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque 259 Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah (Sultan of Sultan Mosque 500-1 243 Sultanate Palace 356-7 Sulug, Pulau Sumatran rhinoceros 76, 169, 269, sunburn 604 Sunday Market 117 Sungai Kinabatangan 379-383 210 Sungai Petani spas 104-5, 513 spelunking, sport512, 513, 552 Sri Division 433-4 Aman Sri Krishna Jayanti 472 497 Sri Krishnan Temple Sri 99 Mahamariamman Temple 186 (Penang) Sri Mariamman Temple (Singapore) Sri Mariamman Temple Sri Menanti 233 Sri Poyyatha Vinayagar Moorthi 503 Sri Senpaga Vinayagar Temple 500 Sri Temple Srinivasa Perumal Swamy Temple Sri Tehndayuthapany 500 Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple 30 Empire Cathedral 497 St Andrew’s St George’s Church 183 St John’s Island 511 St Michael’s & All Angels Church 372 Church 243 St Paul’s Church 245 St Peter’s 242 State Mosque 345 STDs 600 stilt villages

, 524 522 11 , (hantu jarang (hantu jarang diving 8 26 517 522 see also 270 567, 569 557 Pulau KapasPulau 315 318 Lang Tengah Pulau LangkawiPulau 220 MamutikPulau 355 ManukanPulau 354-5 150 Pangkor Pulau 268 Pemanggil Pulau 320 Perhentian Pulau RawaPulau 268 Sapi 355-6 Pulau gigi) shopping 553-9 telephone services 562-3 tourist information 563 tours 529-30 travel to/from 564-7 travel within 567-9 visas 563-4 women travellers 564 work 564 551 people 46 population 18, 49 postal services 562 Quays, the 497-8, Kampong Glam 500-1, legal matters 561 Little India 500, maps 561 medical services 561-2 money 562 MRT (Mass Rapid Transit) 566, Orchard Rd 501-2, 557-9, internet resources 561 resources internet itineraries 26, 493, Snake Island 400 200 snakes 77, 604 snorkelling 84, skin problems 604 smoke haze 80 Snaggle-toothed Ghost Singapore ArtSingapore Museum 496 Botanic GardensSingapore 501 City GallerySingapore 499 Flyer 495 Singapore Grand PrixSingapore 530 Festival International Film Singapore 509 Tyler PrintSingapore Institute 498 Zoo 504 Singapore Singlish 607 Sipadan 386-7, 388-9, INDEX temples Temple Tree 223, Temerloh 303 Temburong 589-90 District Teluk Intan146-7 Teluk Datai219 Teluk Chempedak287 202 Teluk Forest Reserve Bahang Teluk 202-4, Bahang Telok 429 Melano telephone services Telaga Tujuh 219 Tekek 277-8 Teck 392 GuanCocoaMuseum 540 teahouses 632 000 000 Sri Krishnan Temple Krishnan Sri 497 TempleSnake 200 Siang Ti 413 Miao San ChingTian temple447 Sam SingKungTemple 372 Sam PohTemple 162 Sam KowTongTemple 104 Temple BuddhaGaya Muni Sakaya Roufo Gumiao259 Puu Jih ShihTemple 372 Loo Pun Hong185 KongTempleLin Je 150 Lian ShanShuangLinMonastery Leong Temple SanSee 500 234 Kanthaswamy Kuil Sri Kuan YinTeng 184-5 Kuan ImThongHoodChoTemple LokSiTempleKek 199-200, Ipoh CaveTemples 155 Hong SanSiTemple 413 TempleHong SanSee 498 Hock SoonTemple 264 308 Ho AnnKiong Hainan Temple 185 TempleDhammikarama 187 Choon WanKong104 TempleChettiar Hindu 498 Cheng HuangTemple 506 Cheng HoonTeng Temple 244 TempleBuddha ToothRelic 499 Singapore 562-3 475-6 Malaysia Brunei 592

Map pages Map Photograph pages (Temple of1000Lights)500 (Temple 506 497 INDEX (T) INDEX 6 202 10 Terengganu 305-24, Tenom 397 Tempurung 398-9 Tioman, Pulau 274-82, Tinggi, Pulau 268 time 476,563 Tikus, Pulau 206 tigers 75,169,296,504 Tiga NationalPark, Pulau 399-400 Thompson, Jim162 TempleThian HockKeng 499 theme parks 470 theft theatre 122,552-3 Thaipusam 52,189,471,473 tourist information, tourist toilets 476,563 Titi 202 Kerawang tipping 536,563,591 Tip ofBorneo368-9 Wak HaiChengBioTemple 498 Tua Pek KongTemple (Sibu)436 Tua Pek Kong(Penang) 185 Tua Pek Kong(Kuching)413 TempleThian HockKeng 499 Thean HouTemple 104 Sze Ya Temple 99 Temple Veeramakaliamman Sri TehndayuthapanySri Swamy Perumal Srinivasa TempleSri 500 VinayagarTemple Senpaga Sri PoyyathaVinayagarMoorthi Sri Temple Mariamman Sri Temple Mariamman Sri (Penang) Temple Mahamariamman 99 Sri Wild Wet503 Water World254 Taman 253 Malaysia/Asean Mini Sunway Lagoon138 Lost WorldofTambun 158 DalamTamanLagenda Langkawi ParkJerudong Playground585-6 Haw Par Villa508 Escape ThemePark 503 Singapore 563 476-7 Malaysia Brunei 592 destinations 500 Temple 162 503 Temple 244 (Singapore) 499 186 217 see alsoindividual 306 275 , 8 Tumpat 335-6 District tuberculosis 600 Tuaran 367 253,487,567 trishaws 85-7, trekking travellers cheques475 travel withinSingapore 567-9 484-89 travel withinMalaysia travel withinBrunei594 travel to/fromSingapore 564-7 480-4 travel to/fromMalaysia travel to/fromBrunei592-4 train travel tours tips 86 Temburong 356 Taman Negara296-9 380 Sungai Kinabatangan 86-7 responsible trekking Pulau Perhentian 321 396-7 Mt TrusMadi 356,360-3 Mt Kinabalu Area BasinConservation Maliau Kuala KubuBharu(KKB)133 International Kinabalu 356,459-61 Highlands Kelabit 29, itineraries Headhunters Trail356 NationalParkGunung Mulu 455-7 Gunung Ledang 263-4 Area Danum Valley Conservation 162-4 Cameron Highlands 459-61 Bario Bako NationalPark 356,423-4 climbing, walking 126,488-9 within Malaysia to/from Singapore 565 to/from Singapore 566 483 to/from Malaysia wildlife 426,581 walking 105-8,188-9,414-15, walking Singapore 529-30 shopping 557-9, Sarawak 415-16 347 Sabah 221 Pulau Langkawi 246 Melaka 488 Malaysia Kuala Lumpur 109 Brunei 581 395 Climbathon 362 384 579 579-80, see also 106 29 , 557 108 mountain , 188 , 414 , INDEX 633 see

9 INDEX (T-Z) wildlife sanctuaries wildlife & 62 zoos 170 Sanctuary 253 Conservation 303-4 Centre Sanctuary 376-7 428 Centre (SORC)Centre 375-6, see also Georgetown 177, 192 Langkawi 208 Melaka 239 Mt Kinabalu 357 503 Cemetery) 401 Tabin Wildlife Reserve Wildlife 386 Tabin Brunei 53 Brunei 592 Malaysia 478-9 564 Singapore reserves Melaka Zoo 253 Night Safari 504-5 (Singapore) Zoo 504 Negara 132 & Night Safari Zoo Taiping Butterfly Reptile & Deerland 304 101 KL Bird Park Kuala Gandah Elephant MonkeyLabuk Bay Proboscis 346-7 Lok Kawi Park Wildlife 427-8 Matang Centre Wildlife Semenggoh Rehabilitation Wildlife Sepilok Orang-Utan Rehabilitation also Wong, Elizabeth 54 woodcarving 58-9 World Heritage Sites work 479, 564 WWII 36, 91, 326, 370, 372, 373, WWII Memorial (Labuan War windsurfing 267, 290, 513 women in Malaysia, & Singapore women travellers women’s health 605 won ton mee Y ArtYahong Gallery 204 di-Pertuan (King) Agong 43 Yang Youth Olympics (2010) 529 Z Zainal Abidin Mosque 309 zoos, wildlife sanctuarieswildlife & reserves, see individual

stilt villages inside front cover

see see also (humorous sketches) 55 also (shadow-puppet theatre) (shadow-puppet theatre)

wildlife sanctuaries wildlife & see (Chinese opera) 56 kayaking, rafting 589-90 Brunei 590-1 Malaysia 468-9 559 Singapore species, reserves, zoos Peradayan Forest Reserve Forest Peradayan 150 Pangkor Pulau 276-7 Tioman Pulau 426 Santubong Peninsula 445 Park Similajau National Negara 296-9 Taman Chiling Waterfall 133 220 Durian Perangin 269 Endau-Rompin National Park Fraser’s Hill (Bukit Fraser) 135 457 Gunung Mulu National Park 336 Gunung Stong State Park Kiansom Waterfall 346 448 Lambir Hills National Park Maliau Basin Conservation 395 Area 312 Sekayu Falls Reserve Wildlife 386 Tabin Kenyir 312 Tasik 394 Hills Park Tawau 219 Tujuh Telaga 55, 58, 330 Brunei 590 Malaysia 467 558 Singapore also weather 20 weavings 57 Weekend Market 413-14 weights, 503 74-8, wildlife Wang Kelian Market Sunday 228 187 Wat Kok Seraya 335 Wat Maisuwankiri 335-6 Wat Matchinmaram 336 Wat Phothivihan 335 335 Wat Pikulthong water, drinking 601 water villages, Water World 254 waterfalls wayang wayang kulit wayang pasar Weston 399 White Rajas 35, 405 white-water rafting 84-5, 398, World Heritage World Heritage trekking see passports 8 355 see also 269-71 see also Bako National Park 423-4 Bako National Park Endau-Rompin National Park 363 Kinabalu National Park MacRitchie Reservoir 505 199 Penang Brunei 592 Malaysia 477-8 563-4 Singapore Organisation) 17, 37, 39, 43 218 510 354-7, (Selingan) 379 Brunei 590 Malaysia 467 558 Singapore Pahang 290 280 Tioman Pulau Sabah 379 445 Similajau National Park 316 Terengganu Sites W 498 Wak Hai Cheng Bio Temple walking, visual arts 59 volunteering 478, 564 V vacations 20 vaccinations 595-6 vegetables 63 vegetarian travellers 69 Villa Sentosa 244-5 visas, Ubin, Pulau 504 Ubin, Pulau 590 National Park Ulu Temburong UMNO (United Malays National Langkawi)Underwater World (Pulau Underwater World (Sentosa Island) Unesco sites, U turtles 77, Turtle Islands National Park Islands Turtle Tun Sakaran 388 MarineTun Park Rahman Abdul Tunku Park National typhoid 600 typhus 600-1 Tutong 587-8 Tutong Districts 587-9 Tutong TV 634 GreenDex GREENDEX

The following is an index of the businesses, events and organisations in Malaysia, Singapore and Brunei that are doing their bit for the environment, sustainable travel and enabling greater cul- tural understanding. Our decisions about what to include were informed by the work of regional bodies such as Wild Asia (www.wildasia.org) and the opinions of local experts. The index is not exhaustive but does provide a place to start for those who like to make informed choices in how they spend their vacation time and money. Choosing sustainable travel products, just like running a business that is eco-friendly, is not an exact science and is also a continuous process. We know we haven’t got it 100% right yet! We very much welcome feedback on our selection via lonelyplanet.com/contact as well as recommendations for anything that we should be including in this list the next time around. For more information on travelling responsibly see p21 and lonelyplanet.com/responsibletravel.

BRUNEI KUALA LUMPUR attractions accommodation activities Kampong Ayer Cultural & Tourism Number Eight Guesthouse Raptor Watch Festival 235 Gallery 578 111 attractions Merimbun Heritage Park 588 activities Cape Rachado Forest Reserve 234 Peradayan Forest Reserve Buddhist Maha Vihar 108 589 -90 Kompleks Budaya Kraf 108 PAHANG Ulu Temburong National Park Kuala Lumpur Performing Arts accommodation 590 Centre 108 Juara Lagoon 281 ecotourism Sutra Dance Theatre 108 Melina Beach 281 Borneo Guide 581 Temple of Fine Arts 108 Rajan Jones Guest House 288 Freme Travel Services 581 YMCA 108 Riverview 281 Mona Florafauna Tours 581 attractions activities Sumbiling Eco Village 589 Badan Warisan Malaysia 98 , 99 Cherating River Activities 290 Sunshine Borneo Tours & Travel Bukit Nanas Forest Reserve 98 attractions 581 KL Bird Park 101 Kenong Rimba State Park 303 Lake Gardens 102 Taman Negara 294-302, 295, 6 JOHOR Lake Titiwangsa 103 Tasik Chini 288 attractions food food Endau-Rompin National Park Yogitree 117 Golden Dish Café 281 269 -71, 269 shopping wildlife conservation Gunung Ledang National Park Annexe Gallery 122 Kuala Gandah Elephant 263-4 Kompleks Budaya Kraf 123 Conservation Centre 303 -4

KEDAH & PERLIS MELAKA PENANG accommodation activities accommodation Bon Ton Resort 222 Eco Bike Tour 246 100 Cintra Street 190 Frangipani 223 attractions KOPEL 201 Temple Tree 223 , 6 8 Hereen Street 243 attractions Baba-Nonya Heritage Museum 100 Cintra Street 186 KELANTAN 243-4 185 attractions Cheng Ho Cultural Museum Penang Bird Park 178 Gelanggang Seni 330 244 Penang Museum 184 Gua Musang 336 -7 Melaka Zoo 253 Teluk Bahang Forest Reserve Gunung Stong State Park Stadthuys 242 202 336 Villa Sentosa 244 -5 World Religions Walk 189 GREENDEX 635

GREENDEX 310 134 141 Park Nature 132 Malaysia (FRIM) 135 140 141 Park Nature 137 506 farms Wan Kay Homestay 309 Wan Kay Homestay Pura Tanjung Sabtu Tanjung Pura Taman Alam Kuala Selangor Taman -6, 134 Fraser’s Hill (Bukit Fraser) -1 140 Kampung Kuantan Kampung Sungai Bumbon 132 Orang Asli Museum 132 RimbunDahan Kuala Selangor Alam Taman 137 Botani Taman Wetland Taman 132 Zoo Negara Kranji Countryside Association Sekeping Serendah Retreat 133 Chiling Waterfall 131 Dark Cave ResearchForestry Institute of accommodation SINGAPORE ecotourism TERENGGANU SELANGOR accommodation attractions 11

, rehabilitation

432 -3 424 453 Centre 428 Centre Kubah National Park 427 Kubah Park National -2 450 Niah Park National -5 444 Similajau National Park National Park Talang-Satang 432 Datu National Park Tanjung 418 a-ha Café 418 Company & Tea Black Bean Coffee 416 Borneo Adventure 420 Sarawak Craft Council Nanga Sumpa 434 Nanga Sumpa 426 Rainforest ResortPermai -5, 356, 423 Bako National Park 429 Gunung Gading National Park -8, 452 Gunung Mulu National Park Borneo Adventure 347 Borneo Adventure 347 Borneo Authentic 347 Borneo Divers 394 Tours Borneo Nature 382 Kinabatangan Jungle Camp 382 Mescot 347 Traverse Tours Semenggoh Rehabilitation Wildlife drinking ecotourism shopping wildlife SARAWAK accommodation attractions ecotourism 9 395 Sanctuary 376 -7 394 -6, 376 -6, 375 (SORC)Centre 170 Maliau Basin Conservation Area 397 Sabah Agricultural Park Sepilok Orang-Utan Rehabilitation Borneo Divers Mabul Resort 390 Borneo Divers Mabul Resort 385 Borneo Rainforest Lodge 385 Centre Field Danum Valley 373 Nak Hotel 377 Paganakan Dii 398 Seaside Lodge Tempurung 389 Borneo Divers 344 Borneo Images 344 KK Heritage Walk Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey 346 Mari Mari Cultural Village Rainforest (RDC) Discovery Centre KOPEL 201 KOPEL 169 Belum Rainforest Resort & Night Safari Zoo Taiping Tambunan Rafflesia Reserve 396 Rafflesia ReserveTambunan 388 Sakaran Marine Tun Park activities attractions accommodation SABAH accommodation attractions PERAK ecotourism 636 LONELY PLANET OFFICES MAP LEGEND ROUTES Tollway Mall/Steps Australia Freeway Tunnel Head Office Primary Pedestrian Overpass Secondary Walking Tour Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 Tertiary Walking Tour Detour %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 Lane Walking Trail [email protected] Under Construction Walking Path Unsealed Road Track One-Way Street USA 150 Linden St, Oakland, CA 94607 TRANSPORT Ferry Rail %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555 Metro Rail (Underground) fax 510 893 8572 LRT Station Tram [email protected] MRT Station Cable Car HYDROGRAPHY UK River, Creek Swamp 2nd fl, 186 City Rd, Intermittent River Water London EC1V 2NT BOUNDARIES %020 7106 2100, fax 020 7106 2101 International Marine Park [email protected] State, Provincial Regional, Suburb Disputed Cliff AREA FEATURES Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Airport Land ABN 36 005 607 983 Area of Interest Mall Beach, Desert Market © Lonely Planet 2009 Building Park Campus Reservation © Photographers as indicated 2009 Cemetery, Christian Rocks Cemetery, Other Sports Cover photograph: vegetables and fruit baskets in Chinatown, Sin- Forest Urban gapore, Michael Yamashita/Aurora Photos. Many of the images in POPULATION this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images: CAPITAL (NATIONAL) CAPITAL (STATE) Large City Medium City lonelyplanetimages.com. Small City Town, Village All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored SYMBOLS Sights & Activities Information Shopping in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, Beach Bank, ATM Shopping electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts Transport for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold Buddhist Embassy/Consulate Hospital, Medical Airport, Airfield or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Castle, Fortress Information Border Crossing Christian Internet Facilities Bus Station Printed by Hang Tai Printing Company, Hong Kong. Printed in China. Confucian Parking Area Ferry/Boat Terminal Petrol Station General Transport Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Diving, Snorkelling Police Station Taxi Rank Hindu Post Office, GPO Trail Head Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and Telephone Geographic in other countries. Islamic Toilets Hazard Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by Monument Sleeping Lighthouse Museum, Gallery Sleeping Lookout commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Camping Mountain, Volcano Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. Picnic Area Eating National Park Point of Interest Eating Oasis Ruin Drinking Pass, Canyon Drinking River Flow Sikh Cafe Shelter, Hut Taoist/Chinese Entertainment Spot Height Zoo, Bird Sanctuary Entertainment Waterfall

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