Destination By Eric Madeja

Eye-to-eye with a Queensland Grouper (Epinephelus lanceolatus)

A decade ago, I left my banking career behind to heed the call of the sea. On 18 October 1998, I set foot (and fins) on , the Malaysian part of . It was a major turning point in my life. Still in Love with Sabah Accustomed to more rudimentary Anecdotes from 10 wonderful years living during my travels, I felt like Alice in Wonderland — in Sabah there were internet cafés, Swiss bakeries, convenience stores around every corner, hotel rooms with hot showers, and TV sets that actually worked!

But it wasn’t just the increase in comfort and luxury that made the difference. Within the stunning landscape of mountains reaching 4,100 metres and a 1,500 kilometre-long scenic coastline, I met friendly people from different cultures and backgrounds who were sincere in their warmth, and I found I had many things in common with them.

Nearly ten years later, happily married with two lovely daughters and thousands of dives logged in Sabah’s waters, I feel at home more than ever. In all my time here, I’ve never lost the special bond I share with the local people, especially those who live next to and with the sea. And in that time, I’ve had many unforgettable adventures and learned many lessons, a few of which I’d like to share here with you.

14 a. b. Oops, That’s Not My Crew!

Some years back, I had the chance to I swam toward the silhouette of my boat, dive on a small reef located halfway did my safety stop and finally broke between the popular diving destinations the surface. When I reached the boat, I of Mabul and Mataking islands. I had noticed cooking pots hanging from the chartered my own dive boat with an stern, fish drying in the sun, and a dozen experienced crew and was excited about pairs of puzzled, dark-brown eyes staring the prospect of some long, shallow dives at me. Clearly, this wasn’t my boat crew. looking for critters. c. The curious stares came from an entire Fifty minutes into the dive, I had already family of Bajau Laut, or sea gypsies, taken shots of an attractive tomato-red as they’re known. I had mistakenly frogfish sitting motionless on top of a surfaced next to their boat, while my coral head, a blue-lined blenny peeking “experienced” captain had drifted out of its spongy home, a couple of hundreds of metres away to the other Sea gypsy boat nudibranchs, and a tiny juvenile pinnate side of the reef. batfish which was trying to hide in a black featherstar. I still had plenty of air “Apa khabar?” (How do you do?), I in my tank and started to look intently greeted them, trying to hide my own among seafans, in the hope of finding embarrassment. That earned me a few something special. gentle smiles in return. I swam slightly away from their boat and inflated my And find something I did — tiny pygmy safety sausage to get the attention seahorses! “What a dive!” I thought, as of my boat crew. I snapped away taking portrait after portrait. Ten minutes later, with memory Meanwhile I made friends with card full, batteries exhausted, and air the gypsy kids, who free-dived around nearly depleted, I started my slow ascent, me and followed me around with their happy and satisfied. dugout canoe.

No matter where we build our world-class dive resorts, we always emphasise Mother Nature’s needs, a. Frogfish (Antennarius commersonii) and that of our divers, first. b. Blue-lined sabretooth blenny So, long before the decision was made to give (Plagiotremus rhinorhynchos) a breather by disallowing overnight visitors, we had c. Pygmy seahorse (Hippocampus bargibanti) already begun building other resorts where the interests of divers and conservation are unified. For instance, at Lankayan, turtle hatchlings find a place of refuge, while at , our low-touch approach means we ship everything in and out, trash and all, to minimise any impact on our splendid coral reefs. PSRT RESORT email: [email protected] http://www.sipadan-resort.com PULAU SIPADAN RESORT & TOURS SDN BHD (Co No 190571-V) Tel (6089) 765200. Fax (6089) 763563 1st Floor, No 484, Block P, Bandar Sabindo, Kapalai PO Box No 61120, 91021 , Sabah, Lankayan

16 17 An Emotional Rollercoaster

I love seafood. Even with a population beaches, wide-reaching mangrove Excited and encouraged by what I of 2.6 million people and 2.5 million forests and seagrass beds — what had seen, I planned the second dive tourists visiting each year, seafood more could I ask for? During my visit, nearby. Loaded with more cameras is plentiful, and fish stocks in Sabah the villagers of Karakit, the biggest and enormous expectations, we are some of the healthiest in the settlement on , reported descended. I couldn’t believe my eyes region. However, this may not last. regular sightings of the elusive dugong — dead coral littered the seafloor. and spoke of mangrove areas with No seafans, no vibrant colours, no Last year I visited , a small town plenty of crocodiles. Listening to all fish. An entire reef decimated to at the northern end of Sabah that the stories, I couldn’t wait to explore rubble. Utterly heart-wrenching. supplies fresh seafood to the numerous the reefs. But I wasn’t prepared for the restaurants in . The impending emotional rollercoaster. Whether the extensive damage had entire region around Kudat, including been caused by the net of bottom extensive stretches of the coastline For the first dive, we jumped in at an trawlers (fishing vessels that drag a and countless islands, will soon be unnamed reef south of Balambangan net along the seafloor), or whether gazetted as the “Tun Mustapha Park”, Island. Even with limited visibility the heavy use of illegal poisons and the largest marine park in Malaysia. due to heavy rainfalls during the explosives for fishing had caused the night, I found myself in a tropical extensive damage, I’ll never know. One of my favourite activities whenever coral garden surrounded by huge I go to new places is a pilgrimage to the gorgonian seafans and an amazing But I took comfort in the fact that the fish market. Apart from getting the latest variety of soft and hard coral harbouring government and NGOs involved in small-town gossip and plenty of amusing millions of colourful reef fish. creating the Tun Mustapha Park are sailors’ yarns from the fishmongers, you actively addressing these issues, and the won’t believe how much information Within minutes I found angelfish, a pink destructive and dangerous practice of about species diversity, fish stocks, scorpion leaf fish and three different fish bombing has sharply decreased. fishing methods, the local economy kinds of clownfish. On a sandy patch, and culinary culture you can collect half-a-dozen different gobies were Can I still eat fresh fish without feeling at local markets. Where there are big watching over the construction efforts guilty about contributing to overfishing and healthy fish in the market, there of their blind shrimp “buddies”. Nearby I and marine habitat destruction? I think should be good diving nearby. spotted a blue ribbon eel, and I sneaked so. But I’ve learned to ask about the a quick look at a blue-spotted stingray origin of seafood, and the way it was “Absolutely stunning” is how I would before it shot off. When we were about caught or farmed. If we all ask seafood describe Banggi Island, the largest to ascend, I spotted a porcupinefish restaurants for this information in a non- island of this soon-to-be marine park. and a fimbriated moray eel snuggled threatening way, restaurant operators Hundreds of shallow reefs in turquoise underneath a small overhang as if will get the message that customers care waters, endless snow-white sandy they were the best of friends. — a small step in the right direction.

a. Catch of the day a. b. c. b. Mangrove tree roots c. Estuarine crocodile (Crocodylus porosus) e. f. d. Gorgonian seafan e. Leaf scorpionfish Taenianotus( triacanthus) d. f. Blue ribbon eel (Rhinomuraena quaesita) g. g. Fimbriated moray eel (Gymnothorax fimbriatus) and black-blotched h. porcupinefish (Diodon liturosus) snuggling h. Destroyed reef — only rubble left

18 19 The traditional lifestyle of these nomadic hunters and

Deep-Sea Monster ea gatherers of the reefs has always intrigued me. Entire clans live, cook, eat, sleep, work and even bear children on

he S board a vessel not bigger than the front porch or parking

f t space of our homes. Reputed to be fearless and daring, notice me until I was a few metres away. “compressor” or “hookah” divers risk He must have sensed a presence, then s o I’ve heard stories of newborn infants being thrown d their lives daily to pick sea cucumbers immediately stopped everything and a into the sea right after birth to determine their general and other valuable marine products turned around — only to come face-to- strength and chance of survival, a tradition that seems from the seafloor. Believe me, breathing face with two massive glowing “eyes” om cruel to us, but understandable for a society so dependent from an unregulated flow of air from looking down at him. I saw his pupils on the mercy of the ocean, with little access to “western”

a long hose connected to a small air widening with fear, and before I realised ” — N medical care. compressor on the surface is no piece what was happening, he had signaled an t

of cake. On a filming assignment in the emergency situation to his buddies and au Travelling the waters between Sabah, the Philippines Tun Sakaran Marine Park — another shot back to the surface in panic. and Indonesia for many generations, these seafarers recently gazetted park not far from the have accumulated their own outstanding knowledge of small town of — I once had Trying to catch up with the troubled diver, the sea, the creatures and plants living in it, and how to a rather embarrassing encounter with a I ascended at once but was slowed by the utilise them for their survival. Most Bajau Laut possess no “Bajau L “Bajau compressor diver. ascent rate dictated by my dive computer. travel documents or citizenship of any of the countries When I finally reached the surface, my they frequent, which hasn’t been much of an issue in I had spotted the compressor dive team boat crew waved frantically and asked me the past, but modern society, with its need for rules and from a distance. By the time we got what happened below. Apparently, the regulations and properly defined borders, has made life close to their boat, the diver had already compressor diver came up screaming and difficult for these people. So it comes as no surprise that disappeared into the deep blue, leaving shouting in the local dialect, saying he the Bajau Laut have become somewhat cautious and his air-controlling team on board. The just had encountered a deep-sea monster. incommunicative toward “outsiders”. diver and surface team communicate The entire compressor team departed in by pulling on a rope, using pre-agreed record time! If you’re fortunate enough to come across some signals to increase or decrease air of the families on their “lepas” (boats) during your pressure, or to pull the diver quickly back So that’s how I contributed to the creation diving vacation, ask the help of your resort’s staff to in case of an emergency. of new myth about terrifying deep-sea communicate. The sea gypsies have their own language creatures roaming the Celebes Sea. and dialects, but most locals understand bits of the Bajau Keen to film the diver at work, I quickly language, which is commonly spoken along the east coast geared up and got ready my camera and of Sabah. two very powerful lights. The current was running strong as I struggled to My own experience shows that once they get to know you, a. Compressor diver at work follow the hose down to the seabed. At b. Deep-sea monster they’re actually quite curious about your way of life, values about 35 metres, I caught sight of the and worldview. My Caucasian nose gets lots of attention. diver’s bubbles. Visibility could not have One thing that puzzles the Bajau Laut is how much effort been more than five metres. I turned and expense we take to dive on the reef and not take on my lights and approached the diver anything from the reef, and yet at the same time, we pay from above and behind so I wouldn’t fortunes to dine on fresh seafood in seafront restaurants. miss any of the action. The diver didn’t An oxymoron that definitely got me thinking! a. b.

Sea gypsy children playing with dugout canoe

20 21 Phantom Fish

Rising from the deep ocean, famous for Have you ever been diving along the The photo below shows a rather unusual, its abundance of sea turtles, big schools reef, looking for the unexpected pelagic, but innovative recycling method used of fish, pelagics and sheer walls teeming when suddenly you spot something by an ingenious young boy taking with life, Sipadan is one of the world’s hovering in midwater? It’s a…a… swimming lessons in the small town of top dive destinations. phantom fish, more commonly known Semporna. as a plastic bag. The increasing number Marine life was outstanding when I of plastic bags, amount of styrofoam first descended the famous “Dropoff” a packaging and other man-made debris decade ago, and remains outstanding I encounter underwater is distressing. today. I’ve observed the reef community And with an estimated 1,000+ years constantly rejuvenate itself over the decomposition time for every plastic years. Courting, mating and breeding bag, your grandchildren will probably behaviour of many species can be seen log dives with huge schools of phantom on a regular basis, from the smallest fish along phantom reefs if we don’t act dragonet to big animals like sharks and now. sea turtles. Most indicator-species for a healthy reef — such as sharks, groupers There’s a growing international and butterflyfish — can be seen movement to ban or discourage the swimming around in large numbers, use of plastic bags. Until governments including fully grown adults as well as in Southeast Asia start supporting the juvenile forms. idea, each one of us can help a little by reducing waste and recycling. I teach However, I’m particularly worried about my children that a single plastic bag can Plastic bag recycling — Semporna-style one thing that could harm this wonderful be used multiple times before being habitat — phantom fish. considered garbage.

Divers enjoying themselves at Sipadan Island’s Dropoff

22 23 Ten “Must-dos” in Sabah 24 a. b. Green turtles ( turtles Green “School bus” at Banggi Island Banggi at bus” “School Chelonia mydas Chelonia 10. 9. 8. 7. 6. 5. 4. 3. 2. 1. Dive as much you can! you as much Dive turtles sea Witness proboscis Observe at Enjoy sunset top on Enjoy sunrise ceremony (village) wedding a“kampung” Join beans cocoa grown locally from made chocolate hot Drink chilli and vinegar (lato) with grapes” Taste “sea- fresh restaurant a seafood at family your with Eat market fish Island Park Island at Turtle eggs laying River at the orangutans and monkeys Borneo of tip northernmost the Mengayau”, “Simpang Kinabalu Mount of Walk through a local alocal Walk through ) abound at Sipadan Island Sipadan at ) abound never-ending love, support, patience and understanding. and patience love, support, never-ending speci Eric Madeja Eric a l thank heart and open arms. Visit us and feel it for yourself!” for it feel and us Visit arms. open and heart awarm with visitor every embrace will which society multicultural atruly in more much but treasures, natural its in only not lies Sabah of beauty “The www.treasure-images.co Fro soon. have to visit achance you’ll that hope and home, to call come I’ve place tobeautiful this welcome a warm now, For I extend generations. future and children our for wonders natural these preserve and to protect best how on to work We need it. all upon bestowed resources natural the and diversity cultural its treasures that society aware environmentally an of part is to be years ten next the for ambition My destination. ecotourism atop remain will Sabah that I’m optimistic environment, the for concern and my passion share who expatriates and many Malaysians to meet continue and met I’ve As Crys m th s t a. to my wife and my children for their their for my children and to my wife al Ball Gazi b. e author m ng

MALAYSIALAYANG LAYANG GMT +8hrs to takeanti-malariamedication ifyou planto visitremote areas. There are novaccinations required for butit’s Sabah, advisable a tipbox. inMalaysia.Tipping However, isnotcustomary may have resorts numbers. serial denomination (US$1,US$5),orbillswithcertain upon arrival.bankswon’t Some accept oldUS$bills, billsofsmall Malaysian Changeyour Ringgit. foreign at theairport currency 220V, 110Visavailable 50Hz. at someresorts. haveresorts internet access viasatellite. areas andmost oftheislandsare withoutcoverage. ofthe Most GSM coverage isgoodinallmajortowns. However, somerural information. up-to-date for to you nearest consulate or embassy Malaysian the with Check Kinabalu. Kota in arrival on immigration and customs through to go required are Malaysia Peninsular from into Sabah coming Those months. six at least for valid be must Passports month. one exceeding not avisit for avisa without Malaysia to enter allowed are countries most from Visitors makes a 3mm wetsuit sufficient. temperatures range from 26ºC to all 30ºC year round, which seas can be expected from November until February. Water Diving is possible throughout the year. More rain and rougher FlyAsianXpress (www.flyasianxpress.com). (www.malaysiaairlines.com), Air Asia (www.airasia.com) and are inexpensive andgenerally are byoperated Malaysian Airlines flights listwithin Domestic visit Sabah www.sabahtourism.com. andincluding Kinabalu, MalaysiaSilkAir Airlines. For an updated Various airlinesflights operate direct to thestate capital Kota BALAMBANGAN IS. IS. 15˚c 20˚c 2 30˚c 5˚c

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