05. WELLNESS ISSN No. 2711-4317 WELLNESS 05. 05 09 : a must-see destination Natural experiences of self-discovery Contents ISSUE 05 Wellness Page 04 Meditation, Yoga and Whales Peace rests on Colombia’s coasts, coffee plantations that helps us start the day off right way and that requi- and jungles, and every day, more and more travellers res a long and careful process of planting, harvesting A peaceful visit to Nuqui are after it. and roasting. Another story in this chapter narrates Text by Marvzvza Fernanda Cardona Together with guides and communities that seek the profound relationship that coffee and thermal knowledge and ancestral wisdom, those who want to waters have woven together to form the Coffee Cultu- improve the connection between their body and their ral Landscape, a region that includes he departments Page 10 mind, free themselves from burdens and let go of their of Risaralda, Quindio and Caldas. Coffee Cultural Landscape worries, can do so in our country while discovering Other places in Colombia, such as the archipe- unexpected and overwhelming landscapes. lago of San Andres, Providencia and Santa Catalina are Thermal springs and coffee The jungles of Guainia and the rivers of Meta ideal for getting away from it all. The islands are more Text by Juan Miguel Álvarez have become first-class destinations for wellness trips than an hour’s flight from Bogota, and have miles Photographs by Víctor Galeano that fulfuill this purpose by mixing these impressive of beaches, waters famous for their coral reefs, and landscapes with practices such as yoga and medita- palms that filter the breeze from the sea. And the offer Page 18 tion, and the use of crystals. However, they are not the doesn’t end there: there are National Parks that spread Other Wellness only destinations. all over the territory and, besides being the best way to Experiences in Colombia In Nuqui, a municipality in Choco on the Paci- connect with Colombia’s flora and fauna, they allow fic coast, humpback whale watching is a revealing for the development of activities that have a positive experience even to those who come to see them with impact on the well-being of those who practice them, a different purposes. One of the stories in this chap- such as hiking, camping, and birdwatching. ter tells what it feels like to watch the whales jump Colombia is constantly working to consolidate and then let their majestic drop bodies go back into its offer of wellness trips and to help more travelers the warm Colombian waters, where they come to give look within while visiting our country. Together with birth to their calves. therapists, indigenous communities and native peo- Those who travel to Colombia or within it in ples, the options to travel, heal and be amazed by the search of wellness, may also find it in coffee, a drink charms of Colombia are increasingly abundant.

introduction – 03 Meditation,Yoga and Whales A Peaceful Visit to Nuqui

In the Colombian Pacific, nature is amazing. In addition to the breathtaking scenery, the annual visit of the whales turns this scenario into an incomparable place. A growing offer of sustainable tourism and wellness mixes with the environment and provides visitors with unforgettable experiences of self-discovery.

Text: María Fernanda Cardona Photography: Ecoplanet 05

WELLNESS Why Visit Colombia’s Day 1 Day 2 VISITING NUQUI MEETING THE WHALES Pacific Region?

Between the Serrania del Baudo and the Colom- We greet the sun as it rises. The morning begins bian Pacific coast, 30 kilometers from Nuqui (one with an hour and a half of meditation. Then comes of the natural paradises of Choco), travelers who a healthy breakfast and one of the most anticipated 1,500,753 83,170 142 10 have just arrived in these lands are preparing to start activities of the trip: whale watching. inhabitants, square waterbird protected approximately kilometers species areas a yoga practice. In the middle of the jungle and the After almost 8,000 kilometers of migration from sea, there is meditation, breath control, paused and Antarctica, humpback whales arrive in Colombia, and thoughtful movements, a feeling of peace and an only return when the coldest season in the poles has 154 active and conscious listening of the wind, the waves passed. Between June and November, the dynamics of 177 4,525 164 2,000 reptile amphibian plant species fish species endemic species and the animals. The journey begins with an exercise the Pacific coast are active and many tourists travel to species species of flora and fauna of connecting with yourself and everything around meet these impressive cetaceans. They first arrive in you, a way to thank the universe for being there. Buenaventura, Juanchaco and Ladrilleros, and then go 5 species of animals But the journey began earlier, in Medellin, up to Nuqui, Ensenada de Utria, Bahia Solano (which THAT CAN ONLY BE FOUND IN THE COLOMBIAN PACIFIC Pereira, Bogota or Quibdo (cities that offer flights to belong to the coastal system of Serrania del Baudo) Nuqui), in small planes that have the quality of let- and the isthmus of Panama. ting passengers feel how they cut the wind and cross the sky, like a bird that flies at many miles per hour and does not realize what it leaves behind. When you Did you know that Colombia has arrive at Nuqui, the beach, the sea, and the jungle are Poison dart Freshwater Blue anole Baudo Gorgona frog crab oropendola sloth amazingly complementary, and the tropical climate, the largest number of endemic which ranges from 25 °C to 28 °C, makes travelers feel species, i.e., that is, species that like that they are in another world, one where time are not naturally found in other crawls on another dimension, where you travel slowly, 7 unique beaches of the Colombian Pacific parts of the world? culturally calmly, where not only the eyes are open, but also the diverse the COLOMBIAN PACIFIC 4 departments heart and mind, and where the hope of meeting the INCLUDES THE humpback whales guides every step. DEPARTMENTS OF: Travelers begin their journey of transformation The songs of the whales are heard from the in an eco-friendly hotel. After the welcome yoga prac- moment the travelers get on the boat to begin a jour- -choco tice, the day goes by quietly, with activities ranging ney of “love, joy and unity that the whales give away -Valle del cauca from silence and contemplation to walks in the jun- with their singing and vibrations.” Although it is pos- -cauca gle. Time passes in a work of constant disconnection sible to see the whales in the distance from the cabin -nariño and reconnection. where the travelers are staying, the experience of get- 1. Ladrilleros 6. 4. Guapi The landscape is enouraging: the biodiverse ting on a boat, sailing out to sea and looking for them Location: Buenaventura, Location: Cauca forest characterizes Serrania del Baudo and, next to it is a must. The whales and their calves pass by the tra- Valle del Cauca What to do: see the sunset and the Pacific Ocean, home of the humpback whales. It velers and who are dazzled by the immensity of these What to do: enjoy the beach visit the village is a place to marvel at the landscape, disconnect from animals that can measure up to 14 meters, and weigh 5. Isla Malpelo the hustle and bustle of the cities, feel the breeze on 40 tons. 2. San Juan de Dios Location: a 490 km de your face, be surprised by the diversity of the flora This is a journey of respect, where humans stay Location: Buenaventura, Buenaventura and fauna, and share an exceptional experience with aside, at a prudent distance and as simple witnesses Valle del Cauca 7. 5. What to do: birdwatching and the humpback whales. These majestic mammals that of the spectacle that is to see the humpback whales What to do: walk the river’s trails 1. diving arrive every year from Patagonia to the Colombian sea in their daily life and free. The sighting ends after one 2. in search of warm and tepid waters to mate and have or two hours and then travelers go back to the hotel 6. Bahia Solano 3. Isla Gorgona their calves. You can breathe life in this place. to have lunch with typical dishes characterized by the 3. Location: Choco Location: 35 km west of the Travelers seeking peace and a journey of cons- abundance of fish from the region. The day conti- 4. What to do: whale watching Cauca coast cious transformation begin and end the day with a nues with a visit to Playa Amargal, a nature reserve in What to do: visit the caves, the yoga practice, sometimes on the beach, sometimes Nuqui and, of course, a yoga practice on the beach to jungle and dive in the sea in the jungle. Here you have the chance to open your say goodbye, reconnect, and say thanks. 7. Juanchaco heart and mind to appreciate the world around you, Location: Buenaventura and to bond with the whales. What to do: enjoy the beach

06 – WELLNESS Day 3 have much to learn from these ancient beings that Encounter with the rainforest can help us fight ignorance and separation from nature. Cetaceans are an example of cooperation, After the yoga practice with which the day begins, something that human societies are in urgent need Ecoplanet F Ecoplanet Photograph: travelers have breakfast and, after a brief rest, they of to be more sympathetic. venture into the jungle. The destination is a waterfall Although it is very difficult to tell where this about an hour’s walk from the hotel, where there is type of meditation comes from, it can be said meditation and calm. It’s all about being immersed that it is a trend that has gained relevance in in the water, feeling the current, contemplating the recent years thanks to the search that many people powerful waterfall, listening to the jungle, and the have undertaken, tired of the disconnection that birds. Serrania del Baudo is one of the most biodi- the modern world causes, for ways to connect with verse places in the world; this is a millennial forest themselves and with the universe through medita- that shelters primates such as howler and marmo- tive practices like as yoga, zazen, vipassana and even set monkeys; birds such as parrots, eagles, woo- trends that have gained great fame, such as mind- dpeckers and toucans; felines such as ocelots and fulness. Cetacean consciousness meditation inter- jaguars; and frogs such as the poison dart frog or venes in this search for harmony, peace and physical harlequin frog that are only found in tropical rain- and mental well-being. Countless cultures around forests and are known for their bright colors (with the world have seen these animals as a symbol of orange, yellow, red, white, or blue spots) and the the creation of life since they have existed since the poison they produce with their sweat when subjec- beginning of time. Perhaps this is where the concept ted to stressful situations. of whales as guardians comes from. This experience After this stimulating awakening to the colors and ends at noon and leads to an afternoon of relaxation sounds of living nature, the day ends with a restorative and, as always, a two-hour yoga session at the end yoga practice. of the day.

Day 5 Did you know that Malpelo SELF-DISCOVERY SESSION

Island is the top of a 1,400 It is the last day of this reconnecting experience, kilometer underwater mountain and search for wellness and healing. As every day, range that is part of the ? travelers do yoga at six o’clock in the morning, this time to thank and say goodbye to the place that has sheltered them for five days and has been the scene of a transformative journey that has definately provi- Day 4 ded them with tools to face their urban reality. After A MOMENT WITH CETACEAN CONSCIOUSNESS yoga, comes breakfast and the return. In Serrania del Baudo, on the beaches of the Colombian Pacific Yoga begins earlier than in previous days: at five in Nuqui, people can embark on a journey of con- o’clock in the morning, the travelers are in the nection with themselves and of liberation together middle of the beach and the jungle preparing their with the humpback whales. hearts and minds for the experience they will have in the next hours: a second whale watching event, this time with cetacean awareness meditation. The locals guide this experience with musical instru- find out ments, such as bowls and sticks, and with songs more performed by local women to create a connection HERE. with the whales. This form of meditation is based on the idea that cetaceans are profound beings, carriers of light Humpback whales make the 25,000-kilometer journey from Antarctica to the Colombian Pacific to give birth to their calves. Whales and calves jumping over the Choco horizon. Nuqui, Choco. and guardians of Christ consciousness. Humans

08 – WELLNESS Meditation, yoga and whales – 09 Coffee

Thermal SpringsCultural and Coffee Landscape Four departments make up the region recognized worldwide for the quality of its coffee. Towns, trails and landscapes throughout Caldas, Quindio, Risaralda and Valle del Cauca give travelers the opportunity to breathe the purest air, contemplate endless mountains, and appreciate colonial facades frozen in time. The region’s tourist offer recognizes the value that these experiences can have for personal growth. 05

Text: Juan Miguel Álvarez Photos: Víctor Galeano wellness The richness of the It’s been 9 years since UNESCO included Colom- Cultural Landscape, in the , Coffee Cultural Landscape bia’s Coffee Cultural Landscape on the World Heri- and it’s called . With the agreement of the tage List. That distinction, which came on June 25, Municipal Council, the houses and buildings of the The Andes mountain range passes This zone was declared a 2011, was great news for the communities of coffee central park keep their historical design and ori- through this region, creating landscapes between growers in the four departments involved—Risa- ginal elements. The finishes and details such as WOrLD HERITAGE SITE ralda, Quindio, Caldas and Valle del Cauca—despite window frames, doors and eaves always look beau- by UNESCO for its coffee growing landscapes, biodiversity and cultural 1,000 y 4,000 the fact that the economy of this bean had been in tifully painted and moulded. If you visit the village, richness meters above sea level crisis due to low prices on the world market. you cannot miss the impressive Casa de la Cultura, How can this recognition be used to improve a three-storey building that occupies almost half a the development horizon? The answer has been built block. over the years and today it is a tangible reality: this And the third stop, the one that completes a area is the second most important tourist destina- bahareque-themed journey, is the municipality of WEATHER Over 150 years COFFEE GROWING tion in the country. But unlike the first one, which Salamina, to the north of the Coffee Cultural Lands- Temperate, humid and growing coffee is more than just an economic activity, is the Caribbean Coast with the sea and beaches, cape in the department of Caldas. Perhaps because rainy in the mountains. has been one of the main Warm and dry in the lower economical businesses it’s a lifestyle visitors of the Coffee Cultural Landscape come in its access is not as expeditious as Salento or Mar- areas search of local culture, of a sensitive experience in sella, the houses of Salamina have been much less the midst of all that has constituted the history of modified by trade for tourists. Anyone who wants Colombian coffee. to get to know the most autochthonous and tradi- In the midst of this coffee scene, an offer of tional manifestations, as well as the most elaborate WHAT TO DO IN THE COFFEE CULTURAL 4 FACTS ABOUT connecting and relaxing experiences has emerged. and elegant ones, must visit this town. One other THERMAL WATERS Experiencing the landscape, breathing the mountain beautiful and interesting attribute of the Coffee Cul- LANDSCAPE? air and carrying out coffee production activities is tural Landscape is the neighboring roads, which are 1. It’s a product of the volcanic 1. Savor coffee grown in volcanic possible in tourist areas of the region designed for drawn on the surface of the mountains. Since the system influx on the Los Nevados soils between 1,000 and 2,000 wellness activities. It is an offer that connects with time of the coffee colonization, which took place in National Park meters above sea level whole environment, generating sensations of rela- the second half of the 19th century, the great cha- 2. They have therapeutic properties xation, transformation, and balance. llenge for farmers was to conquer the summit. Villa- 2. Hiking on trails that begin in 3. They come up at a temperature Another of the most admired attributes of this ges were founded on sloping ground, houses were foggy forests and end on snowy of 70 ˚C landscape is the bahareque architecture across built on sloping surfaces and crops were expanded volcanoes 4. They descend down a waterfall entire towns, in parks, parishes and homes. Bahare- from the edge of the mountains to the bottom of the into natural thermal pools at a que is a mixture of mud and cow dung supported by banks of tributaries. temperature of 40 ˚C 3. Paragliding over valleys and guadua wood and perennial cane. All the buildings coffee plantations in the region built at the end of the 19th century and The Coffee Where to enjoy thermal in the first half of the 20th century were constructed Did you know that the 4. Discover the natural fibers of Cultural Landscape waters? the traditional baskets and the is made up by the following with this material. Due to its simple manufacture, at 1. municipalities of Aguadas, “aguadeño” hat departments: the hands of any farmer, and its capacity to absorb Salamina in the department of 24 km from the city of Pereira the wave of seismic movements, bahareques became 5. Learn about the different uses for -Risaralda -Caldas 2. San Vicente Natural Reserve the fundamental element of architectural design in guadua cane, a type of bamboo, known Caldas have what is known as -Quindio 33 km from the city of Pereira the Coffee Cultural Landscape, large southern por- the best smooth coffee in the as “natural steel” -Valle del Cauca tion of the department of Antioquia, and northern Tolima. world? A possible route that allows tourists to appre- A BIRD PARADISE ciate the most beautiful constructions of this type Otun Quimabaya Fauna and Flora Sanctuary can be seen starting in the south of the region, in the When it became clear that coffee was going to municipality of Salento, in the Quindio department. be the engine of the national economy, the problem In some of its streets, old houses of traditional fami- to be solved was to transport it from the plots to lies have become valued spaces of commerce and the collection centres, and the only way the coffee entertainment, and the local people take care of visi- growers found was to open up roads between coffee tors with affection and care. plantations that connected each nearby house. Tropical Saffron Spot-breasted Roadside Western Emerald Vermilion These roads were known as “country roads” and Honey Creeper Kingbird Fintch Woodpecker Hawk Hummingbird Flycatcher The second stop is in the center of the Coffee were the guide for muleteers to transport the load.

012 – WELLNESS Once the Colombian Federation of Coffee and sand collectors are happy to explain to visitors Growers was created in 1927, these roads were all about how their lives are deeply connected to the expanded, they became highways and the Willys river. jeeps began to travel them, the picturesque vehicle Five hours from there, in the far east of the that also constitutes an important part of this lands- region, the Magdalena river passes imposing by the cape and that is ideal for coffee transport. Today, it municipality of La Dorada, department of Caldas. is possible to travel through country roads that were During the most fertile decades of the coffee eco- not converted into highways in remote municipali- nomy between 1950 and 1980—a considerable por- ties such as Aguadas, north of the Coffee Cultural tion of the grain cultivated in the area was brought Landscape, department of Caldas, which still com- to this municipality and then transported by train municate with municipalities in the department of to the Caribbean coast. A railway advanced parallel Antioquia such as Abejorral and Sonson. It is also to the Magdalena river until reaching the Atlantic. possible to find them in Genoa, south of the Coffee But the river that has been most widely chosen Cultural Landscape, department of Quindio, espe- for enjoyment by tourists is called La Vieja, on the cially those which go inland to the east in search of route that goes from the municipality of Quimbaya, the Las Hermosas canyon in Tolima. But if tourists department of Quindio, to a section known as Pie- prefer a more central location, they can travel along dras de Moler, in Cartago, department of Valle del the old country road that connects the municipali- Cauca; all of this in the southwestern end of the ties of and Santa Rosa de Cabal, in Coffee Cultural Landscape. This trip takes approxi- the department of Risaralda, and which was ope- mately five hours on a raft made of guadas driven ned more than a century ago on the back of a gentle by experts, following the speed of the current. The chain of low hills. landscape begins between slopes and coffee plan- tations, and ends in extensive cattle pastures. At times, the river is peaceful and romantic, but it has Did you know that the sections where the speed increases and travelers tallest wax palms on the feel the thrill of adrenaline. Without a doubt, the most popular attraction planet can be found in the of this region that is not connected to coffee are its Forest of Samaria, which is hot springs. Some can be found in the rural area of located in the municipality Santa Rosa de Cabal and others in remote villages near Manizales. Due to the ongoing volcanic acti- of Salamina, Caldas? vity of Nevado del Ruiz, these hot springs are abun- dant and powerful. Visitors can choose between a natural waterfall that falls into a pool, a stream In addition to the cultural attractions con- with banks of dense vegetation, or some fountains nected to coffee, this region has been developing where you can bathe as if it were a shower. Although an appealing tourist offer of its rivers and thermal any time of day is good for enjoying the hot springs, waters. The Coffee Cultural Landscape goes from people in this region have gotten used to using the ice peaks of the Los Nevados National Natural these spaces at night. Park—more than 4,000 meters above sea level— For a foreigner, coming to the Coffee Cultural with its volcanoes and cliffs, to the flat areas of Landscape can be like discovering an important the valleys of huge rivers such as the Cauca and part of the country’s history and can also be the the Magdalena rivers—at 1,000 meters above sea possibility of enjoying numerous adventure tou- level. Except for the coastal topography, this region rism options. Local residents, farmers, or city dwe- offers all the climate zones found in the country. llers, will always be attentive and ready to welcome In , department of Risaralda, at the visitors with open arms. center of the Coffee Cultural Landscape, the Cauca advances calmly along the last kilometers of flat water before entering the coffee mountain range find out and becoming a bed of rocky streams. Fishermen more A hot spring resort is visited by Colombian and foreign tourists who come to the region to enjoy the healthy temperature here. of its waters. Arbelaez, Santa Rosa de Cabal, Risaralda.

014 – WELLNESS Coffee cultural landscape – 015 Coffee mobilizes a huge economy and generates employment for the population of this and other regions in the country. La Judea farm, Santuario, Risaralda.

Willys Jeeps are a huge part of the Coffee Cultural Landscape. Colloquially known as “Yipao”, they are the means of trans- Visitors of the Coffee Cultural Landscape come in search of a sensitive experience in the midst of the history of national portation to reach neighboring towns and are also the traditional cargo vehicles for coffee. Santa Rosa de Cabal, Risaralda. coffee. Some coffee farms have turned to experience-based tourism. Belen de Umbria, Risaralda.

016 – WELLNESS Coffee cultural landscape – 017 Connection with the Guaini Jungle colorful bed of aquatic plants, sand and rock forma- tions that attract travelers interested in connecting Where: Puerto Inirida, Guainia with water, and renewing their spirit through it. Duration: from 4 days onwards Wellness trips to this part of the country are Transfers: plane tickets from Bogota or Villavicencio characterized by direct contact with the river and the use of crystals and other energetic elements that With indigenous communities sharing their knowle- can be recharged in its waters. There is also guided dge, those who take this journey will be able to meditation, mindfulness, and quantum healing connect with the powerful energy of the Mavecure exercises on the banks of the river, which depending Mountains and heal from within. Wellness trips to on the purpose of the experience, will help travelers this area of Guainia, near the municipality of Puerto on their path of transformation and self-discovery. Inirida, offer hiking and sailing activities ideal for A visit to Caño Cristales would not be complete letting go of things, and connecting with the local without yoga classes and workshops where physical flora and fauna: pink dolphins, orchids, and medi- and emotional ailments are left behind and what we cinal plants. came here to do in the world is maximized. Unlike other wellness experiences, a trip to Guai- nia implies a deep connection with a mostly jungle environment: depending on the services hired, the Meditate Between Coffee Plantations and itinerary may include one or more nights camping in Whales front of the Mavecure Hills and in territories inhabi- ted by the indigenous communities that lead the trip. Where: Risaralda, Quindio, Caldas and Choco Duration: from 6 days Relax in the Coffee Cultural Landscape Transfers: plane tickets from Pereira San Andres Where: Quindio, Caldas and Risaralda The visit to the departments of Risaralda, Quindio,- Miscellaneous Caldas and Choco results in a cultural, communal The three departments that form the Coffee Cultural and ancestral experience. Those who join this trip Other Wellness Experiences Landscape, declared as a World Heritage Site since will spend some time with a farmer family that is 2011, are ideal for a connecting, relaxing and intros- dedicated to the collection of artisanal coffee, and Colombia offers places to renew your health, disconnect from daily routines, pective experience. Based on the culture, nature, a few hours later will be crossing the Pacific Ocean and reach the deep calm of the mind. Here, healing is connected to ancestral and rural traditions of the region, travelers on a boat. traditions, customs and places that are of unparalleled beauty. will be able to discover new ways to connect with There will be time in Nuqui for reflection acti- nature and relate to others. vities in front of the sea, sailing to see humpback Discovering other cultures, seeing other landscapes, that allow tourists to connect with sacred places, This trip proposes a deep connection with whales and dolphins, and participating in rituals to and simply being in a different territory than the share the knowledge of indigenous communities or coffee, a beverage that is the livelihood for millions thank the ocean and the jungle. There will also be one we live in every day is a stimulating experience. native peoples and accompany their personal pro- of families in the country and without which many time to meet and learn about the women of Choco However, Colombia has places where the stimulus cess with practices such as yoga, meditation, and cannot start the day. The invitation is to rethink our and their oral narratives, and to enjoy a swim in produced by travel transcends the barriers of the coaching. Besides relying on local communities of relationship with food, with the products that come mineral waters. This trip cannot end without a visit physical and awakens the soul, mind and spirit. The all the destinations where the tours take place, the from our land, and with the traditions of the terri- to the , a unique landscape of Colom- coast of Nuqui, the coffee plantations of Quindio, teams of the tour operator teams include specia- tory we live in. bia that is on the way back from Nuqui. Risaralda and Caldas, the hills that dominate the lists in healing techniques such as reiki therapies, jungles of Guainia and the majestic river known as quantum healing, and crystals. Recharching batteries in Caño Cristales Caño Cristales are magical places that have a special Learn more about the offer of destinations energy. That energy, when shared with other trave- and experiences related to wellness in our coun- Where: La Macarena, Meta lers and with specialized guides, can heal the dee- try and give yourself the opportunity to visit the Duration: from 3 days pest wounds and strengthen our relationship with Colombian forests, coasts and mountains. The Transfers: plane tickets from Bogota our body, with our loved ones and with the here and tranquility and peace that you will find there are now. treasures that you can take with you wherever The department of Meta is home to one of Colom- Colombia has several tour operators specia- you go. bia’s water treasures: Caño Cristales, a river that lized in this type of experience: they design trips starts in Sierra de la Macarena and is known for its

018 – WELLNESS Miscellaneous – 019 WELLNESS

Peace rests on the coasts, coffee plantations and jungles of Colombia, and every day more and more travelers are seeking it. Together with guides and communities that transmit knowledge and ancestral wisdom, those who wish to increase the connection between their body and mind, free themselves from burdens and let go of their worries, can do so while discovering the unexpected and overwhelming experiences that different places in our country can provide.