The Seed 2019 Nebraska Statewide Arboretum Planting Nebraska for healthy people, vibrant communities and a resilient environment

Understanding and Managing Landscape Weeds

Justin Evertson, Green Infrastructure Coordinator It’s just human nature to try and put order in the world around us. We see patterns and when those patterns are disrupted, our natural inclination is to “fix” whatever is out of place. This is especially true for the landscapes we plant and manage around us. Whether we’re talking about farm fields, golf courses, parks or our own yards, we naturally want things to be neat and tidy. And above all zero-tolerance policies in our efforts to WEED-FREE! destroy weeds. We generally despise weeds, those When we spray herbicides we uninvited plants that regularly show up often injure non-target plants, when we and disrupt our hard-won order. And string-trim we often cause mechanical we go to great lengths to get rid of them damage to trees, and when we eliminate INSIDE with more than $10 billion spent on all weeds we often decrease soil health herbicides in the U.S. each year (much and biodiversity. This issue of The Seasonal Guide to Weeds 2 of it for farming). In terms of landscape Seed takes a closer look at weeds in Some of My Favorite Weeds 6 management, weed control is likely the our planted landscapes with the goal of most time-consuming activity undertaken painting them in a more tolerable light. Least Favorite Weeds 7 next to lawn mowing. Whether mowing, We don’t want to leave the impression plucking, cutting, trimming or spraying, that weeds are not worthy of serious List of Common Weeds 8 we’re under constant battle to keep weeds management efforts. However, we do Weeds Reveal Soil Types 11 at bay. hope to convey that some weeds are not Weeds can and do cause serious nearly as problematic as they appear Weed Resources 11 economic, environmental and emotional and in fact may be quite beneficial. As harm and weed control will always be the old saying goes, beauty is in the eye Weeds and Management 12 an important activity in keeping our of the beholder. Eat the Weeds 18 landscapes attractive and functional. And yet it is also clear that we often do more harm than good when we adopt plantnebraska.org SPRING March–May

Freshen Up Start the season off right by putting some effort into your landscape after winter recedes. Removing dead material and sharpening bed edges are key garden refreshers that put eyes at ease, if you do nothing else. Mid- April is generally the best time tocut back last year’s stems before new growth begins and after beneficial insects have moved on from their winter homes. Hedge trimmers can make this task less laborious, especially when dealing with grasses and tall plants. Prune spring- flowering shrubs right after they bloom (if needed).

Spring is when many of the first weeds sprout, struggling to get a grip underground. It’s during this stage of emergence that hand-pulling is easiest and least invasive. (One tenet of smart gardening is to minimize soil disturbance, since most weeds depend on it to germinate.) Cover bare areas with plants, seed or mulch immediately afterward to discourage new weeds. “Signs of care” like clipped hedges, crisp edges and landscape signage lend a sense of neatness to gardens on the wilder side. SPRING WEEDS TO WATCH OUT FOR

Foxtail Honeysuckle Garlic Mustard Russian Olive Crabgrass Setaria spp. Lonicera maackii Alliaria peiolata Elaeagnus angustifolia Digitaria sanguinalis

Early spring pre- Seedlings can be dug This noxious weed is Most problematic Dig or pull when soil emergent is the most by hand to minimize a biennial with heart- in wet areas. Pull or is slightly damp to get effective control. Can infestations. Controlled shaped basal leaves year dig seedlings while as many roots and be controlled with burns also help control one and white spring they are still small. rhizomes as possible. herbicide but it is more seedlings but must flowers year two. Pull or Bark treatment with Large infestations can be difficult. To remove be repeated several treat with herbicide as triclopyr is effective for treated with glyphosate without using chemical, times. Two of the most soon as it is identified small trees (up to 5” but several applications cut seedheads before effective herbicide to avoid infestations. diameter). Larger trees are usually necessary. they mature and dig options are triclopyr and (Nebraska Invasives need to be manually deeply to remove the glyphosate applied to photo) removed and the stump long roots. foliage. can be treated.

2 SUMMER June–August

Outsmart Weeds Once your garden greens up, visit every week or two to “edit” for a few minutes. Keep in mind that your goal should not be to eliminate every unexpected plant, but to regularly manage the more troublesome ones. As Editor, you can approach new growth—like spreading or reseeding—as something to redirect (rather than abhor).

As for weeding, make a plan before diving in. We advise focusing on highly visible areas near walkways and curbs, since these are what people see. Start with any tall weeds and cut them off at the base (instead of pulling) to avoid disturbing the soil. Then move on to woody seedlings, which can shade out desirables if left unchecked. Pull them by hand if possible (then cover the spot with mulch), or apply a cut-stump treatment. Next, turn to other known bullies/invasives and cut or spray them before they set seed. Weeds in flower are easier to identify and more vulnerable when blooming. Keep in mind it’s easiest to pull weeds when the soil is moist. Knowing your weeds gives you the upper hand in management. Take an ID book or phone app with you whenever you go out. SUMMER WEEDS TO WATCH OUT FOR

Yellow Sweet Clover Canada Thistle Siberian Elm Maple Bindweed Melilotus indicus Cirsium arvense Ulmus pumila Acer spp. Convolvulus arvensis

Annual with yellow 1-4’ tall perennial that Young seedlings up to Seeds prolifically in the Member of the morning flowers. Pops up in flowers June-October. 2” diameter can be landscape. Hand-pulling glory family with an landscape beds and Seeds and produces pulled or dug. Larger while small is most extensive root system. along walking paths. new shoots from roots. trees must be cut and effective. For larger Difficult to eradicate Pull or spot spray before Taproot makes pulling chemically destroyed. trees, cut short and but repeated pulling, it seeds. (UC Berkeley difficult but repeated Basal bark spraying, treat the fresh stump digging or herbicide photo) mowing reduces cut-stump treatment with herbicide. treatments weaken it. infestations. (Inaturalist and girdling can all Can be a large problem photo) be effective but may in new landscapes but require multiple doesn’t compete well in treatments. mature plantings. FALL September–November

Cover the Ground Take some time to check your landscape for bare spots after the heat of summer has passed. These holes will be vulnerable to weeds next year unless they are filled, so take advantage of cool weather to plant. Replace plants that have died, and install low groundhuggers like sedges and spring bulbs around plants as “living” mulch. Cover any exposed soil with 1-2 inches of grass clippings (in a prairie garden) or wood mulch (in a woodland garden) as extra insurance.

In a native garden, late fall is a good time to control exotic cool season weeds (such as brome or fescue) because they remain green long after native plants go dormant—just carefully spot-spray with a foliar herbicide. This tactic works in early spring as well. Native gardens benefit from ecological treatments like burning, mowing and grazing, so feel free to experiment. Fall is also a good time to control spring annuals by hoeing or with pre-emergent. Covering the soil with desirable plants can do more than grass clippings or wood mulch to keep weeds away. FALL WEEDS TO WATCH OUT FOR

Birdsfoot Trefoil Quackgrass Tall Fescue Mulberry Smooth Brome Lotus corniculatus Elymus repens Festuca arundinacea Morus alba Bromus inermis

Short perennial that A cool season grass A perennial grass that Small mulberry saplings The extensive roots of flowers all summer. around 3’ tall. Spreads is easy to control by can be dug up, taking this cool season grass Forms thick mats that mostly by rhizomes. digging out clumps. For care to remove the help it out-compete choke out other plants. Repeated pulling and/ larger infestations a entire root system or other plants. Dig any Hand-pulling, repeated or chemical treatment non-selective herbicide they will readily grow time or spray in fall cutting and spot will control. (Nebraska like glyphosate can back. Larger mulberry after repeated severe spraying are effective. Invasives photo) be effective. Two trees can be cut off at freezing to carry the (Weed Alert photo) applications may be the roots between May herbicide deep into its needed. and September and root system. sprayed with herbicide.

4 WINTER December–February

Leave Plants Standing Lower temperatures are an opportunity to give attention to the trees and shrubs in your landscape. Pruning woodies while they are dormant maximizes time for wound sealing, so take advantage after brushing up on proper techniques at treesaregood.org.

As food for critters gets scarce, make sure to protect young trees and shrubs from browsing by caging or fencing them above and below snow line. (Species preferred by deer and rabbits include oak, maple, walnut, hackberry, pine, juniper, dogwood, sumac, hawthorn, serviceberry, apple, cherry and plum.)

Winter is an invitation to leave other plants alone, since beneficial insects overwinter in dead leaves and stems. Wait until spring to deal with old plant material. As long as the right plants are in the right place, you shouldn’t have to worry about watering this season, either. Last season’s growth, along with deadwood from pruning, serves as insect and bird habitat when left in the garden. WINTER WEEDS TO WATCH OUT FOR

Chickweed Downy Brome Henbit Eastern Redcedar Marestail Stellaria media Bromus tectorum Lamium amplexicaule Juniperus virginiana Erigeron canadensis

The best way to handle A winter annual grass A common annual weed Small seedlings can be Fairly easy to pull or chickweed is pulling or that produces seed in that should be pulled controlled by digging dig in the landscape. raking, since the shallow June. Control it before or treated as soon as it or repeated mowing. Large infestations can be roots make it easy to seeds drop. Pulling greens during warmer Larger trees must be treated with glyphosate; remove. Pull when soil and tilling/hoeing are winter days or early cut; although this is multiple treatments may is slightly damp to get as effective, as well as spring. If pulled or time-consuming, it’s be necessary. many roots as possible glyphosate herbicides. treated early it is fairly very effective since trees since it does re-sprout. (UNL newsroom photo) easy to controll and cut below the lowest *This and several other (wildedible.com photo) unlikely to out-compete branches won’t re- scanned images were desired plants. sprout. developed by NSA intern Patrick Murphy. Some of My Favorite Weeds

Justin Evertson, Green Infrastructure O White clover (Trifolium repens) is a Coordinator mowable little plant that makes a great In my spare time, I help manage groundcover and helps add nitrogen to the several public landscapes in Waverly, soil, reducing the need for fertilizers. It including parts of three parks and three also helps sustain a variety of pollinators. schools, and controlling weeds is by far Don’t spray it, embrace it. O the most time-consuming activity I un- Stinging Nettles (Urtica dioica) can be dertake. Since I often can’t keep up with quite painful when they come into contact everything, I’ve learned over the years to with our bare skin, but they’re also one of focus on the most problematic weeds and the most important plants for sustaining relax about the others. I call it weed tri- a variety of charismatic butterflies like age. I used to believe that if I could snap painted ladies, red admirals and mourning my fingers and get rid of all the weeds in cloaks. Young nettle greens also make a these landscapes I surely would. tasty and nutritious food when properly This column from top: Now, after learning the ecological cooked. If you have stinging nettles on Smartweed value of some of these weeds, I’m much your property, consider that a good thing. Beggarticks O more accepting of some of them. When Common milkweed (Asclepias) is not Stinging nettle I see a variety of bees on smartweed or the most attractive plant with its tall habit Violets monarchs on milkweed, or fritillaries on and large leaves which are often disfig- Second column: violets or various birds pursuing insects ured by aphids in mid-summer. However, Honeyvine and Virginia on these bits of wildness, I’m actually due to its importance in sustaining the creeper (with vinca) glad that I can’t just snap them all away. monarch butterfly, we should allow this Another lesson I’ve learned over the years plant to show up and do its thing here and is that it’s just not worth the unintended there. O harm to trees or other landscape plants we Honeyvine milkweed (Cynanchum often inflict in the name of weed control. laeve) is a native perennial vine related Here are a few weeds I tolerate or to other milkweeds that sometimes make room for. Generally can weave its way to the speaking, if a plant is native to our area, top of trees, shrubs and I’m prone to be more tolerant of it as it perennials, making it an very likely benefits insects, birds and annoyance. However, other wildlife. it rarely causes serious O Beggarticks (Bidens) is a native an- harm and it too is a host nual with fern-like compound leaves and of monarchs and other dainty yellow flowers in late summer. It’s important insects. O a clean, attractive plant that helps sustain Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus numerous insects and would probably be quinquefolia) is a native, woody vine that thought of as a good garden plant if it’s can sprawl and climb to amazing heights. barbed, trident-shaped seeds didn’t stick It can be problematic when overtaking so easily to clothing. healthy trees and shrubs, but it also makes O Smartweed (Polygonum) is a native a great groundcover, has good fall color annual that helps sustain a wide variety and hosts numerous insects. Let some of it of bees, butterflies and other insects. be. Because of its abundance and easy-to- grow nature, it’s not much appreciated. Let’s call it a native wildflower and start enjoying it more. O Violets (Viola) are critical food plants for two of our most beautiful native butterflies, the regal fritillary and the spangled fritillary. With their pretty flow- ers and small stature, violets should be welcomed to the landscape, not sprayed away.

6 My Least Favorite Weeds

Justin Evertson, Green Infrastructure O Smooth Brome (Bromus inermis). I O Pokeweed (Phytolacca americana) Coordinator despise this cool season grass introduced likes shade and can grow to 5’ tall or taller from Europe. Its ability to spread by with large leaves, purple stems and bright Of course, many uninvited plants are underground rhizomes allows it to create purple berries in late summer. Although out of place and unwelcome and I work young leaves are edible with proper cook- hard at getting rid of them. I try to pull ing, the plant becomes poisonous with them wherever I can, especially when the age. (Photos below of young plant and plants are small and the soil is moist. But I with mature purple berries.) use other tools as well, such as tile spades, string trimmers, mowers and an occasion- al herbicide, carefully applied. Pre-emer- gent herbicides can be especially effective in preventing germination and slowing the spread of weeds. Here are a few weeds I regularly do battle with: a dense sod. It often weaves its way into O Bedstraw landscape beds, snuggling up to more (Galium aparine) is desirable plants and making it hard to deal a native, sprawling with. Smooth brome is especially prob- annual weed that lematic in prairie-themed plantings where can weave its way it can out-compete native warm season up and into about grasses. anything, including O Crabgrass (Digitaria). Various shrubs. It was some- crabgrass species can be pests in the lawn times used as a filler in pioneer mattress- es, thus its common name. Its tiny, round seeds stick easily to clothing and fur, helping the plant travel far and wide. In Waverly, we pull out truckloads of bedstraw from shrub beds nearly every year. One good thing is the plant dies back quickly after seeding and thus become less noticeable by summer. O Poison Hemlock (Conium O Mulberry tree seedlings (Morus alba) and garden. They come on quickly in maculatum) is an rival redcedar for their ability to come up mid-summer and can overtake new plant- introduced biennial about anywhere a bird poops out its seeds. ings in a hurry. And they really are ugly. from Europe and, It’s especially problematic coming up in O Marestail or as its name implies, tree and shrub beds, often weaving its way Horseweed (Eriger- is quite poisonous. out of the dense shade of evergreens. If on canadensis) is a It’s parsley-like humans disappeared tomorrow, redcedar native annual common leaves reveal it as and mulberry would take over eastern anywhere there is open a member of the Nebraska. ground and often prom- carrot family and it inent in new prairie can grow to 5’ tall, seedings where it will coming on fast in the early spring. fade over time. Its tall O Prickly lettuce (Lactuca serriola). stature and resistance Imported from Eu- to herbicides makes it rope, this relative problematic in land- of garden lettuce scape beds. not only looks bad (it grows 3-4’ tall) but also has spiny stems and leaves that can leave sliv- ers behind if pulled by bare hands. List of Common Weeds Below is an alphabetical list of some of the most frequently used common names for weeds. The plants considered the most troublesome are indicated in brown here and throughout the publication; least troublesome and/or beneficial are noted in green. More information about management can be found on the pages noted in the last column; pages with photo of the plant are in boldface. All of these “weeds” are Perennial unless noted as Annual or Biennial plants, which are best treated by slowing or stopping seed production through pulling, mechanical means or herbicides. Pre-emergent herbicides are especially good for problematic annuals like henbit, pennycress, bedstraw, downy brome, etc. Breaking the cycle for a year or two is often sufficient so that herbicides need not be used every year. Many of the most common plants, and particularly weeds, have a variety of common names. And some of those common names are associated with two or more plants, making their identification and management more confusing. (Maybe this is an idea for a new kind of arboretum, one with signage for weeds as well as ornamental plants?) COMMON NAME SCIENTIFIC NAME. MISCELLANEOUS notes and tips. PAGE MENTIONS. When several species are Pages with photo are in included, only the genus boldface. is listed. Bedstraw (catchweed, Galium aparine Native annual; edible; vining habit; velcro-like stickiness 7, 12, 15, 17, 19 cleavers) Native; attractive plant; good for pollinators; annoying Beggarticks Bidens bipinnata 6 barbed seeds. Bindweed Convolvulus arvensis Introduced; invasive 3, 11, 12, 13, 14, 17 Introduced; beneficial in a lawn mix; low-growing, Birdsfoot trefoil Lotus corniculatus 4, 17 drought-tolerant, yellow flowers, legume Introduced annual; yellow-flowered legume; related to Black medic Medicago lupulina alfalfa Introduced annual; twining/sprawling; similar to Buckwheat Polygonum convolvulus bindweed or honeyvine milkweed Introduced; edible biennial with large basal leaves and Burdock Arctium minus 13, 19 velcro-like seed pods Native annual; common to waste areas; similar in look Burnweed Erechtites hieracifolia to marestail Buttonweed Abutilon theophrasti Introduced annual; large, velvety, heart-shaped leaves Catchweed (see bedstraw) Chickweed Stellaria media Introduced annual; low, sprawling; edible. 5, 12 Cleavers (see bedstraw) Introduced; beneficial in a lawn mix; mowable and Clover, white Trifolium repens 6, 12, 13, 14, 15, nitrogen fixing Introduced biennial; deeply rooted; often used in Clover, yellow sweet Melilotus officinalis 3, 17 conservation Creeping charlie (ground ivy) Glechoma hederacea Invasive; spicy fragrance; low, spreading, trailing stems 12, 15, 16, 17, 18 Crown vetch Securigera varia Introduced; invasive; vining/sprawling habit. 17 Native annual vine; similar to wild cucumber but small Cucumber, bur Sicyos angulatus fruits in clusters Native annual vine; fast-growing vine that can cover Cucumber, wild Echnocystis lobata trees and shrubs Introduced edible; mostly an aesthetic rather than 1, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, Dandelion Taraxacum officinale ecologic concern 18 Dayflower, Asiatic Commelina communis Introduced annual; edible; twining habit; blue flower 12, 19 Native edible; big plant and foliage; unattractive flower Dock, curly or sour Rumex crispus 7, 12, 18, 19 stalks Native edible; similar to curly dock but with smaller, Dock, smooth Rumex altissimys 7 smooth leaves Native; pink/red-purple flowers on tall stems; deep Four o’clock, wild Mirabilis nyctaginea taproot Introduced biennial; invasive; garlic odor; aggressive in Garlic Mustard Alliaria petiolata 2, 17, 19 woodlands/shade Ground ivy (see creeping charlie) 8 Henbit Lamium amplexicaule Introduced; blue flower; low habit; winter annual 5, 12, 13, 17 Honeyvine milkweed Cynanchum laeve Native, vining, related to milkweed 6 Horseweed (see marestail) Knapweed Rhaponticum repens Introduced; knapweeds are invasive and noxious weeds Native annual; quick spreader; common in open fields, Knotweed, common Polygonum arenastrum compacted soils Knotweed, Japanese Reynoutria japonica Introduced annual; tall growing; invasive 13 Introduced annual; especially problematic in western Kochia Kochia scoparia 14, 17 NE Lambsquarter Chenopodium album Introduced annual; edible 12, 13, 18 Lettuce, blue Lactuca oblongifolia Native; similar to prickly lettuce; blue flowers Introduced annual; related to garden lettuce; yellow Lettuce, prickly Lactuca serriola 7 flower Mallow, common Malva neglecta Introduced annual; sometimes biennial; low, trailing Native annual; marestail-like flower panicle on a leafy Marestail Conyza canadensis 5, 7 stem Milkweed, common Asclepias Native edible; great for butterflies; milky sap 6, 12, 15, 19 Introduced annual; invasive; looks like young mulberry; Mulberry weed Fatoua villosa 14 prefers shade Introduced; edible; woodland plant prefers shade; Nettle, stinging Urtica dioica 6, 18 upright habit Nightshade Solanum spp Native; related to tomatoes; Palmer amaranth Amaranthus palmeri Native to SW US but quickly invading farm fields Pennycress Thlaspi arvense Introduced, winter annual Phragmites Phragmites australis Introduced wetland invader; noxious weed 13, 20 Pigweed Amaranthus retroflexus Native annual; large plant, easy to hoe Pineapple weed (wild Introduced; edible; noticeable pineapple or chamomile Matricaria discoidea 13 chamomile) fragrance when mowed Plantain Plantago Introduced; edible; all are low-growing but deeply rooted 15, 19 Introduced biennial; invasive; all parts poisonous; Poison hemlock Conium maculatum 7, 12 parsley-like leaves; Native; grows tall, roots are poisonous; prominent black Pokeweed Phytolacca americana 7 fruits Introduced annual; sprawling; glossy/succulent leaves; Puncturevine Tribulus terrestris 17 painfully thorny fruit Purslane Portulaca oleracea Introduced annual; edible; succulent sprawling foliage 16, 18 Queen Anne’s lace (wild Introduced; large growing with prominent white flower Daucus carota carrot) umbels Ragweed, common Ambrosia artemisiifolia Native annual; major allergy plant; important for wildlife 11 Native annual; pollen is the primary culprit of fall Ragweed, giant Ambrosia trifida allergies Native perennial; pollen is the primary culprit of fall Ragweed, western Ambrosia psilostachya allergies Native; good in wet areas but indicative of poor Rush, scouring Equisetum hyemale 13 drainage Introduced; invasive; tall growing and very aggressive Sericea lespedeza Lespedeza cuneata noxious weed Native; distinctive pink to white cylindrical flower Smartweed Polygonum 6 racemes; good for pollinators Sorrel Rumex acetosa Introduced; edible 12 Introduced; invasive; tall stems with yellow flowers, fluffy Sowthistle Sonchus asper seedheads Spanish needles (see beggarticks) Introduced annual; low, sprawling: henbit-like; small Speedwell, slender Veronica filliformis 12 blue flowers Continued on next page Spreading orach Atriplex patula Native; similar in appearance and habit to lambsquarter Spurge, leafy Euphorbia virgata Introduced annual; invasive; green-yellow flowers 7, 13, 17 Spurge, spotted or prostrate Euphorbia maculata Native annual; low, sprawling: 7 Introduced; similar in appearance and habit to Strawberry, false or mock Duchesnea/ indica 12 strawberry plants Sunflower, annual Helianthus annuus Native; large growing; easy to pull; good for birds 13, 15 Introduced; common problem in farm fields and waste Tallhedge mustard Sisymbrium loeselii 12 areas Thistle, Canada Cirsium arvense Introduced; invasive; should be aggressively removed 3, 17 Introduced biennial; invasive; noxious, very aggressive; Thistle, musk Carduus nutans must be removed. Velvetleaf (see buttonweed) Native; edible; beneficial in lawns; distinctive blue flower Violet Viola pratincola/sororia 1, 6, 13, 14, 15, 19 spikes on upright plant Wild carrot (see Queen Anne’s lace) Wild chamomile (see pineapple weed) Weedy Grasses Bentgrass, creeping Agrostis stolonifera Introduced; commonly used on golf courses 13 Bluegrass, Kentucky Poa pratensis Introduced; can creep quickly into landscape beds 11 Bromegrass, downy Bromus tectorum Introduced Annual; invasive; pull or mow before seeding 5, 16 Introduced Annual; invasive; common pasture/roadside Bromegrass, smooth Bromus inermis 4, 7, 11, 13, 17 grass Cheatgrass (see downy bromegrass) Crabgrass Digitaria sanguinalis Introduced; invasive 2, 7, 12, 13, 16, 17 Fescue, tall Tall - Festuca arundinacea Introduced; can creep into landscape beds 4, 13 Foxtail, common Setaria viridis Introduced; Annual; not a big problem 2, 16, 17 Nimblewill Muehlenbergia screberi Introduced 13 Nutsedge Cyperus esculentus Introduced; worse on poorly drained sites 13 Quackgrass Elymus repens Introduced 4, 16, 17 Reed canarygrass Phalaris arundinacea Introduced; often in ditches and wet areas 13, 17 Sandbur Cenchrus longispinus Native; sprawling plant with barbed seeds; prefers sand Windmill Grass Chloris verticillata Native; low sprawling habit Weedy Woody Plants Ash, green Fraxinus pennsylvanica Native; female plants are heavy seed producers Buckthorn, common Rhamnus cathartica Introduced; invasive pest in woodlands 14 Coralberry/Snowberry/ Symphoricarpos Native; good for birds and wildlife Buckbrush Elm, Siberian Ulmus pumila Introduced; invasive; prolific seeder 3, 17 Hackberry Celtis occidentalis Native; birds spread seeds but good for wildlife Honeylocust Gleditsia triacanthos Native; especially a problem where seed pods drop 12 Introduced; invasive vine/shrub; especially problematic Honeysuckle Lonicera 2, 14 in woodlands Maple, silver Acer saccharinum Native; can put out bushels of seeds each spring 3 Mulberry Morus alba Introduced; invasive; tasty fruit birds spread everywhere 4, 7, 12 Olive, autumn Elaeagnus umbellata Introduced; invasive; large shrub/tree; silver foliage Olive, Russian Elaeagnus angustifolia Introduced; invasive on waterways 2 Pear, ornamental Pyrus calleryana Introduced; invasive; should no longer be planted Poison ivy Toxicodendron rydbergii Native vine; toxicity makes it difficult to control Redcedar, eastern Juniperus virginiana Native; aggressive; grows anywhere/everywhere 5, 13, 14 Introduced; invasive; sumac-like leaves; suckering/ Tree-of-heaven Ailanthus altissima 17 colony-forming Trumpet vine Campsis radicans Native vine that hummingbirds love 14, 15 Euonymus fortunei Winter creeper Introduced; prefers shade; should not be planted 14 ‘Colorata’ Ragweed What kind of soil do you have? (Wikipedia photo) Ask the weeds.

Below is a list of soil types with the Heavy, Compacted Clay Fertile Soil weeds that tend to be associated with Bermuda grass Chickweed them. This information was taken from Horsenettle Chicory Gardening Know How—Common Garden Knotweed Foxtail Weeds: Identifying Weeds by Soil Type, Morning glory Horehound https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ Mouse-ear chickweed Lambsquarter lawn-care/lgen/what-the-weeds-in-your- Pennycress Mallow lawn-are-telling-you.htm. Plantain Plantain Quackgrass Thistle Poor Soil, Low Fertility Clover Crabgrass Dandelion Mullein Plantain Weed References and Resources Queen Anne’s lace Ragweed O Managing Turf and Landscape Weeds, http://extensionpublications.unl.edu/assets/ Sorrel pdf/ec1269.pdf Thistle O Weed guide primarily aimed at farmers, but also has photos and lists of noxious Yarrow weeds, etc., https://lancaster.unl.edu/ag/crops/weed.shtml O Weed problems in lawns, https://byf.unl.edu/turf Poorly Drained Soil O Weeds in croplands, https://cropwatch.unl.edu/2018/nebraskas-top-weed-problems- Bindweed and-most-common-herbicides Bluegrass O The 2019 Guide to Weed Management, primarily aimed at farmers and ranchers, Chickweed https://marketplace.unl.edu/extension/ec130.html Goosegrass O Mulching for weed control, http://extensionpubs.unl.edu/publica- Ground ivy (creeping charlie) tion/9000016361444/mulching-the-landscape/ Knotweed Moss Sedge Speedwell Spotted spurge “We grow morning glory for its cerulean blue, and Violet because it is a reminder of the Mediterranean, Overly Dry Soil swarming there over everyone’s balcony or terrace; Carpetweed Mustard weed we wage war on bindweed, that most tenacious and Russian thistle ineradicable perennial ‘weed’, but actually, to look at, Speedwell Yarrow convolvulus is just a small white form of morning glory, and, if annual and more genteel in behavior, we would Acidic Soil (often a result of insufficient oxygen) probably cherish it.” Penelope Lively Hawkweed Plantain Sorrel

Alkaline Soil Chickweed Chicory Queen Anne’s lace Field bindweed, Spotted spurge Washington State Weed Control Board

11 Worst Weeds?

bindweed Managers of 1-100 acre landscapes offer tips, humor, sympathy

Steven Schafer, Aldersgate Gardens feasible. In areas where we’re trying to Jan Riggenbach, Garden Columnist, Curator, Lincoln, NE establish buffalograss and blue grama, Omaha, NE My worst weed depends on which controlling weeds is problematic. Hand- My most troublesome weeds are of several hats I wear. As a homeowner pulling is the most effective method but the ones that go to seed so quickly that where I’ve limited the amount of exposed it’s very time-consuming. In retrospect, I can’t prevent them from dropping to soil, maintain a healthy lawn and don’t let better preparation of the planting beds the ground. Yellow wood sorrel, for weeds go to seed, bindweed is the hardest and earlier application of a pre-emergent example. And also winter annuals like to eliminate. My control method is to would have been helpful. Weed control chickweed and speedwell, which bloom starve the roots by pulling out the vines is a very high priority, since this is in and set seed while I’m busy with spring time after time. a residential area. We want to be good planting. Also difficult to keep up with are As a volunteer with The Nature neighbors. Worry-free weeds: white clover ground ivy and mock strawberry, which Conservancy, controlling non-native spread quickly along the ground, rooting thistle, poison hemlock, Siberian elm, Bob Feurer, Arboretum Curator, North along the way. Thankfully I do find hand- thorny honeylocust and cottonwood are Bend, NE weeding very therapeutic. I’m not a fan priorities. Digging is the primary method I would love to control weeds without of pre-emergent herbicides because I of weed control or, for saplings, basal chemicals but, in a large site like the want my native plants to seed themselves bark treatment with a herbicide. North Bend School and Arboretum, the around, creating a more natural-looking At Aldersgate Gardens in Lincoln volume makes that almost impossible. landscape. I don’t want to apply anything our control methods include applying pre- Mulberry trees are the most pernicious that would stop those volunteer seeds emergent, spot-spraying with a broadleaf weeds in the arboretum. If you cut them from germinating. herbicide and improving turf health with off, you MUST treat the cut stump or Worry-free weeds: dandelions. The a winter fertilizer, mulching and higher flowers are an important early pollen they grow back. As far as weeds, henbit, mower height. As time and resources source, and—in my yard—rabbits eat bedstraw and Asiatic dayflower are on permit, we are converting turfgrass to most of the foliage down to stubs. I just the top of my hit list. landscaped areas. A 3” layer of mulch try to pick off most of the spent flowers Worry-free weeds: lambsquarter; has been essential and largely successful before the plants have a chance to seed and I used to spray common milkweed for weed control where mulching is themselves around promiscuously. but now, thinking about monarchs, I treat Clover. I’m old enough to remember it like my best ornamentals. when clover in the grass was always welcome for making flower necklaces for the children, for providing food for bees and for manufacturing nitrogen in the soil. I’m happy that there is a resurgence in welcoming clover into the lawn, but not everyone has gotten the word yet. More broadly, I want to stress the value of leaving leaf litter in place and planting more groundcovers because, if we don’t cover the ground between plants Henbit with something desirable, nature will do Honeylocust (Wikipedia photo) the job with more weeds. (University of Kentucky photo)

12 Greg Weber, retired conservationist, Lincoln, NE In my home lawn/landscape my most troublesome weeds through the years have been prostrate knotweed, yellow nutsedge, henbit, ground ivy, wild violet, prostrate/spotted spurge, crabgrass, foxtail, bindweed and nimblewill. And, where bluegrass and/ or tall fescue are desired, creeping red fescue and bentgrass. In larger landscapes such as our city parks and acreages where native grasses and forbs have been seeded, the worst ones are invasive plants such as volunteer tree seedlings, smooth bromegrass, Common or prostrate knotweed bluegrass, tall thistle, dock, leafy spurge (Michigan State University photo) and, to a lesser extent, redcedar. Also, phragmites, scouring rush and reed be the optimal time for control measures. canarygrass can severely impact wetland functions and values in wetter areas. Also, keeping a healthy vigorous turf The 12 state listed noxious weed species inhibits some weeds from getting a and two for Lancaster County should foothold. Tall Thistle have a zero tolerance attitude, even the In larger landscapes with native plant (Weedwise Program photo) ones such as purple loosestrife and salt communities like acreages or city parks, cedar which have wonderful ornamental a combination of cultural and chemical Landscape recommendations: We characteristics. control measures is probably needed. For spend untold amounts of money applying In the home landscape hand removal most volunteer tree species other than millions of pounds of fertilizers and may work for small infestations of some redcedar, cutting and chemically treating pesticides each year to our residential species such as prostrate knotweed, the stumps may be the only option for areas in order to maintain a manicured yellow nutsedge, prostrate/spotted preserving the integrity of other desirable landscape (I plead guilty). Is it time spurge and dandelion, but the key is to forb species in the vicinity. For redcedar a consider other alternatives such as be persistent. For example, when you simple whack with a corn knife or shovel xeriscape concepts for water conservation, pull a sprig of yellow nutsedge 10 or below any green growth will control it. or encourage the use of natural landscapes more little ones will come to the funeral. Worry-free weeds: One person’s and native gardening using species Being persistent with hand removal will weed is another person’s salad. I know that are more adapted to the prairie reduce the pesticide load that is in the folks who forage for plants such as environment? The benefits of applying environment and will eventually starve pineapple weed (chamomile), curled these concepts would be reduced fertilizer the plant. For larger infestations of these dock, burdock, and lambsquarter. There and pesticide use as well as water and most other weeds, timely applications are other folks who let their yards go conservation. The difficulty with making of pre- and post-emergent herbicides may and harvest whatever becomes available this type of transition is being the first be the best option. Understanding the life though this can cause conflicts with in the neighborhood to try it. A weed is cycle and growth characteristics of the city weed control ordinances as well as simply a plant that is in the wrong place weed you are after is important. Many neighborly relations. Recently I read an at the wrong time. Think of a corn plant times weed control is attempted when the article about pollinator-friendly residential in a soybean field. To a certain extent I weeds become obvious, which may not yards that suggested leaving plants like think we need to take a deep breath and white and red clover and wild violets learn to live and let live with a few minor in our lawns. These plants are relatively weeds here and there and find a balance harmless and provide pollinator habitat. with folks who want perfectly manicured Mallow is another weed that can crop up landscapes and those who prefer the chaos here and there around the yard fringes of successional plant development. and is a pollinator species. On larger We need to be informed. UNL landscapes there are many species that extension has online publications for these exhibit significant environmental benefits subjects and programs like Backyard but have been aggressively controlled in Farmer. The staff at reputable local the past. Common milkweed, ironweed garden centers is also a good source and sunflower are some examples. Tall of information. Local offices of the thistle can be aggressive but is a native USDA Natural Resources Conservation Nutsedge thistle that provides late season pollinator Service and many other agencies like habitat and is desirable as long as the population does not get out of control. Continued on next page Nebraska Game and Parks Commission, Out here, keeping everything watered Nebraska Statewide Arboretum, Pheasants Winter creeper appropriately can be a challenge. Watering Forever and Nebraska Forest Service needs vary so much depending on the can also be tapped for information and weather and, while I mostly try to plant expertise dealing with native vegetation things that don’t need supplemental management on larger acreages or irrigation, after several weeks without landscapes (more on page 11). rain, pretty much everything is going to need a drink. But it can also be Kim Todd, UNL Associate Professor & challenging to make sure that we aren’t over-irrigating some of our dry- Extension Landscape Specialist loving plants. Chemical drift is another I think the most troublesome weeds challenge. A windbreak we planted about fall into two categories: woody shrubs five years ago would look a lot better and trees that are either on the noxious if it hadn’t been sprayed a couple of weed list, or are good candidates as times. Fortunately the shrub row has taken invasive or certainly aggressive species; the brunt of it and has come back pretty and herbaceous and vining plants that well, but I wish I could see how it would seed or spread by rhizomes into managed look if it hadn’t been knocked back so or at least still prostrate, taking care to landscapes. My reasoning? The birds much. detach the plants that root from the leaf spread the shrubs, and people often don’t And beginnings are important. It nodes. If it escapes and goes vertical, cut ask us for identification until they have takes a lot of time and effort to improve the stems to keep it from becoming three- attained some size and are established— the soil and break up any compaction dimensional and producing seed. and then they often want to keep before planting, but it will definitely pay Relatively benign weeds. Clover them. Amur honeysuckle, European off in the long run. buckthorn and eastern redcedar top my (white or Dutch) and wild violets are not weeds to me. The clover colonizes areas weedy woody list. Kyle Johnson, Landscaper Annual mulberry weed and of poor soil and thin turf; the violets form broadleaf evergreen wintercreeper are a dense groundcover in areas that are Omaha, NE threatening to take over my landscape shady, compacted and dry. My opinion on weeds in general beds, turf and woodland. It’s important Tips to simplify management. is that plants are the most effective, to start with the education needed for Relax. Let it be. Stop striving for sustainable solution to weed control rather proper identification, which should perfection in a living landscape. Diversify than any product. Mother Nature will include an understanding about invasive your landscape; the imperfections are always try to fill empty space. Weeds are species. Dig up the woodies when they far less noticeable if the composition simply opportunists, taking advantage are small. Mowing works on many, is a rich tapestry of forms, textures of vacant real estate. By filling empty but take care to get the growing point and colors instead of a monoculture. space with groundcovers, grasses or on cedar or it will simply spread and Encourage the growth of desirable plants other desirable plants instead of using a become shrublike. Mulberry weed to crowd out weeds by amending the product or maintenance practice to keep spreads its seed everywhere, including soil, using compost and leaf litter as empty space empty, you eliminate the into the crowns of other perennial plants. mulch. Determine what your threshold opportunity for (most) weeds to ever gain Hoe it, pull it and repeat; I may have to of acceptance is, and raise that a bit. And a foothold in the first place. resort to a pre-emergent herbicide. As for weigh the implications of any actions you wintercreeper, pull it when it is young are considering, resorting to chemical Chrissy Land, Western Nebraska control only as a last resort. Community Forestry Specialist,

Scottsbluff, NE Honeysuckle Annie Folck, City Engineer In western Nebraska, bindweed and Gering, NE thistle are the most challenging weeds Worst weed—bindweed! Hate it, to work with. I was once told you will hate it, hate it. I don’t like to use spray, never eradicate bindweed therefore you but I will for this one because it is so must manage it, always and forever, once difficult to get rid of (or even keep at bay you have it. I have diligently worked on sometimes). Cheatgrass is another one gardens densely overtaken by bindweed that can be extremely troublesome, but and by the end of the summer it seems can be controlled fairly well with pre- like I haven’t even made a dent. Its emergent. root system is complex. Each time you pull at a vine, it just breaks off the root Worry-free weeds: If bindweed system which then is activated to sprout is my most hated weed, kochia is my at any and all given points, possibly favorite. It’s easy to identify, easy to increasing the foliage and causing the pull when it is young (although it can root system to grow even larger. One root become more difficult if left too long). I can be many feet in length. By taking also have no issue with dandelions, and a variety of approaches, bindweed can actually like to have a little clover in my be successfully managed but unless grass. every tiny piece of root and the seeds 14 Trumpet vine

Kendall Weyers, Sustainable What doesn’t work... And what does... Communities Coordinator, Lincoln, NE The personal weed devils I’m dealing Landscape fabric eventually becomes Leaving milkweed and other beneficials in with are trumpet vine and creeping unsightly, accumulates soil where weeds can a landscape can bring in pollinators like the Charlie. The trumpet vine is pure evil swallowtail above. grow and reduces air and moisture absorption. and just laughs at any efforts to control Rock mulch does much the same. it, whether herbicide or hand removal. I’m hoping persistence and patience will are removed or killed it will not be One management approach that pay off with it and by regularly taking eradicated. Some herbicides are growth doesn’t work long-term is landscape a few minutes to pull/cut/dig the shoots regulators on steroids and as a result some fabric. I see it as a waste of time and when they’re small (the parent plant is on plants may respond with more growth. So money. You lay the fabric, cut holes for an adjoining property), that I’ll at least it’s important to understand what you the newly planted plants at their pot size hold my ground. Creeping charlie isn’t are working with and accept that not which they quickly outgrow, then put everything can be solved in a snap. that hard to control with herbicide, but down mulch which has a mix of larger Weed management is best done with that needs to be done before your whole branch chunks and fine dirt. The dirt a proactive approach rather than reactive. property is dominated by it. It’s sneaky It is best to start by understanding the settles to the bottom, wind adds silt and and persistent, creeping and crawling site you are working with, identifying weed seeds to the mix and within just two through every gap, between every plant, any limitations and determining what or three years you can have up to 3” of under every rock and basically parties in your options are for dealing with it. wonderful weed-growing medium on top mulch and thin turf. I don’t have bindweed, The goal is to use all of the research- of the fabric. It doesn’t allow for proper but I have dealt with it on other properties proven tools available to limit weeds. It water and gas exchange for healthy root and consider it equally evil. starts with selection and placement of systems, it is a pain to remove and can be Worry-free weeds: I’m more than plants. When plants are spaced closely quite expensive. Pre-emergence does the okay with clover, plantain, violets and together, they have a better chance of out- same job but promotes a healthy growing dandelions (before they go to seed). competing weeds. With new plantings, environment. As far as management, proper pre-emergence may be the best option Another misconception is that rock is placement and care of plants can make but it may damage some perennials. The low maintenance and a quick fix. It looks a big difference from the start—learn other important option is to mulch, mulch, great for the first few years but then wind about the plants you use, give them what mulch, but not too much—it’s critical to blows in dirt and weed seed that fill in the not choke out plants with mulch but to they want and let them do their thing crevices over time. Often it is reflective create another barrier against weeds. by placing dry-loving plants together and can increase the impact of heat stress Timing is important also, figuring out and pruning only as needed. For larger a schedule or system that works best to on plants. landscapes, have less manicured turf, stay on top of things and catch big issues Many times we organize our gardens more shrub/grass/perennial beds and let early in the game. As a reactive step in such a way that they need to be taken some space go semi-wild. It’s better for for the bigger issues, it is important to care of but if we understand how plants pollinators and biodiversity, and greatly understand what selective herbicides are naturally take care of themselves, work reduces inputs of water, fuel, fertilizer, and how and when to properly use them. with their strengths and place them pesticides and your time and money. While a broadleaf herbicide can wipe out appropriately we can get the best bang for dandelions in turf without harming the our buck and create gardens that require lawn, trees are also broadleaves, so avoid less effort. Taking time to learn about applying anything within the root zones of things before diving in and making quick trees that might harm them. decisions can help us understand the Worry-free weeds: milkweed, long-term effects of different gardening sunflower and dill are a few weeds that practices and work smarter, not harder. truly can have a place in the landscape. Once you learn to appreciate the value they bring to the garden for our wildlife and insects they may not seem like weeds. I encourage gardeners to selectively let Plantain some of these great weeds grow. Continued on next page habit, growth habit, etc. and jam in as much diversity as possible. Worry-free weeds: Foxtail if you keep it mowed to minimize seedheads, and dandelions. Management recommendations: Having a plan and having a budget/ willingness/crew to see it through; repeated consults in the first year to guide or tweak management; management that includes both weeding AND replacing plants. If those have to be a new species, then so be it; it doesn’t make sense to put the same species in if it doesn’t work and yet that’s done all the time. Every site really does present unique challenges, and what worked here doesn’t necessarily work there, or at least not in the same exact way. If folks can keep up with weeds in year one, it really really really does make a huge difference in year two. But that’s only the case if the right plants have been used—and that means taking into account plant layers, The best way to discourage weeds is to space plants tightly together and simply not give them reproductive behavior, rooting behavior room to grow (photo by Benjamin Vogt). and succession.

Benjamin Vogt, garden designer, pre-emergent is best for a municipal site Lucinda Mays, Horticulturist, Lincoln, NE IF plants were put on 12” centers and a My thoughts on weed management matrix was used. I’m beginning to think Chadron, NE shift year by year and site by site. It’s spring gardens should not be installed Every summer I declare that “this is always a new ballgame it seems. I seem unless they are in shade or in a killed the year of the weed!” and with the rain to have the best luck when I spray kill a lawn, as there is less weed competition this summer, I do think that 2019 has lawn and plant or sow directly into it. in those spaces. Waiting until fall means surely been good for the weeds—and The most troublesome weeds, fewer weeds and more time for plants other plants, too, thank goodness! in my experience, are crabgrass and to get established for the next growing Out west, downy brome or quackgrass, followed by creeping season. On a smaller site we can weed, cheatgrass is a constant problem. An charlie and purslane. I’m still but on larger sites it’s not feasible unless annual cool season weed that seeds experimenting with how to handle each— we employ mowing. I’ve been reading abundantly in disturbed ground, it is a spray for a clean slate, hand-pulling about using a gravel or sand mulch layer constant battle to keep it in check, starting or planting dense layers of perennials above the in-situ soil, either as a mulch in early fall when it first sprouts. The best (groundcovers and mid-height seasonal or as something we plant straight into, controls are constant monitoring, hand- forbs) on 12” centers. especially for spring/summer install. pulling or hoeing, very heavy mulch in Management depends on the In any case, I will be using FAR more size of the site, current weed density, groundcovers, and aggressive ones at that, and how much commitment there is in the future—combined with sowing to management. I’ve not used a pre- annual forbs as a temporary nurse crop; emergent; nuking an area first and/or I’ve had decent luck with coreoposis, repeatedly to exhaust weed seed bank is as rudbeckia and partridge pea. far as I want to go right now. But maybe Wood mulch really isn’t a long-term answer if the goal is low maintenance and ecologically thriving spaces. Wood mulch Purslane just creates gaps for weeds to move into over time and prevents desired species from spreading quickly. What we need is more plants, and more plant layers, as we see in the wild. What do most landscapes want to become? Once we figure that out, we plant for that. Most urban lots want to become a dense vegetative area, Downy brome so let’s mimic that with planned plant communities paying attention to root 16 its early stages of growth and relentless Providing native harvesting of seedheads in the summer. plants for toads Canada thistle is hard to manage and may not be a high must be kept after to keep any control. priority for you The best herbicide control I’ve had is but, like Rachel when I applied it at the recommended Allison, we got quite rate when flower buds are just starting to attached to our show color. Other than that, hand-pulling, greenhouse toad hoeing, mowing or removing foliage to this spring. starve the roots will help slow the plant down until it begins to bud. Bindweed is best managed by pulling the vining tops off the roots once the vines start showing up in early summer. Late summer herbicide slows the growth down, but I’m not so sure it does much to control it. Hand-pulling is best. As I look at these big three problem weeds, I remember they are all native to Europe. I’m not sure what that means, but it does give me something to think about In native landscapes, however, being while I’m pulling weeds! more tolerant of some weeds helps reduce the use of herbicides and provides habitat shrubs. As other groundcovers and low Rachel Allison, NFS forester and for beneficial insects. As time goes by forbs increase, smaller numbers of weeds and I’m pulling the same weeds over and Arboretum Curator, North Platte, NE will be less visible and less of a problem. over again, I realize they want to be there. I’ve been weeding landscapes for a Over the last couple of years I’ve So this year I’m leaving the catmint and very long time, and I actually enjoy it. added some native plants and grasses, purslane. The catmint will be helpful There are parts to it that are frustrating— which changes how I treat the weeds. For to butterflies and other insects, and the the time it takes and having to use the native plants to reseed and cover the purslane can cover the ground but not herbicides to keep on top of large areas bare ground, I need to avoid spraying or become a problem like puncture vine or during heavy bloom times. But it gives applying pre-emergent, which prevent does. Others I’m thinking about removing me time to think, including thinking about desirable new perennials and annuals are henbit, prostrate spurge and weeds: when is a good time for better from coming up. bedstraw. These plants don’t interfere control, what weeds are growing in what Why be tolerant of weeds? Several with plant growth but are unsightly and season, what is the best way to remove beneficial insects are now taking cover plants like bedstraw will climb into weeds and what is the best way to manage under the spurge where there’s moisture. them. Because everyone is different, and As we move toward fall, insects will because every garden, landscape or lawn be laying eggs on the weeds, so if I’m is different, each situation will be different going to clean up my garden, I better do too. Following are some of my ideas as I it before then. Why protect the insects? work in a public garden and think about Insects do many good things for our volunteers working in landscapes. plants; for one thing they provide food for First we need to differentiate high birds, even toads. It makes my summer maintenance or cultivated gardens when I have toads, and I even saw a frog from natural landscapes. Certainly in a this year! So I have decided to keep some cultivated garden with specific plants, weeds, to acknowledge that some of them all other plants, even seed that comes are okay in the landscape. from desirable plants, will become weeds How to manage weeds: time of year when they’re in the wrong place. Even is important—when weeds are flowering desirable tree seedlings like oak, elm and and producing seed, get them out of hackberry, along with undesirable ones your landscape! It is also important to like mulberry, tree of heaven and others, distinguish between annual and perennial are candidates for removal. Generally, weeds. In late summer spurge, purslane however, smaller weeds take up most of and puncturevine are abundant. Which our weeding efforts:prostrate spurge, ones should be pulled now? Definitely get purslane, dandelion, clover, prickly rid of puncturevine and spurge before lettuce, kochia, sandbur, puncturevine, This elm seedling is hiding in a bed of they go to seed. For tree seedlings and henbit and blue mustard in the spring; perennial geraniums almost exactly the same perennial and biennial weeds the roots and of course grassy weeds like windmill shade of green, showing how hard it can be need to be removed or they will resprout. grass, crabgrass, foxtail and others. to spot, and remove, weeds that are hidden in Weeding is best done every week to stay with other plants. on top of them. Beat ‘em by eating ‘em

Bob Henrickson, NSA Assistant Director of Lambsquarter, Chenopodium album Horticulture Programs This a leafy green that is completely transformed when cooked. The top Creeping Charlie, With today’s emphasis on buying growth on 4-6” plants can and growing local, along with budgets Glechoma hederacea be eaten fresh and taste This aromatic evergreen spreads to tightening and health concerns rising, similar to any other leafy form a carpet-like mat. European settlers we’re realizing that gardens can be both green. It has a wonderful carried it all around the world and its beautiful and productive. It’s easy to fresh flavor when sautéed, bitter leaves are used as a salad green in incorporate vegetables and other edibles stir-fried, creamed or many countries. It has a rich history of into existing beds and it’s a definite win- added to soups, omelets treating problems of the ear, nose, throat win. We get the beauty and produce, or quiche. Kay Young’s and digestive system. our landscapes get the diversity and creamed lamb’s quarter edible plants benefit from the increase in recipe is delicious and pollinators that flowering plants attract. Purslane, Portulaca sativa easy to make. It also can There’s one component—the easiest This is a favorite among urban be blanched and frozen for component—of an edible landscape that foragers. The fleshy, oval-shaped leaves later use. Like its cousin we often overlook. Instead of battling the have a slightly sour taste and the texture quinoa, it’s a super-food weeds that are everywhere present, an easier is crunchy and slick. Stems, leaves and that’s high in Vitamins A management technique is to harvest them. flower buds are all edible and can be used and C, riboflavin, niacin, Initially I was skeptical about eating fresh as a substitute for lettuce in salads, calcium, manganese, dandelions, stinging nettle greens, sandwiches, tacos and burritos; stir-fried potassium and iron. milkweed, cattail shoots. Sure, you can or cooked like spinach; and because of its eat them, I thought, but they’re only for mucilaginous quality it also is suitable for survival food, right? My recommendation Stinging Nettle, Urtica dioica soups and stews. Greeks mix the leaves is to give them a try. Like me, you may People have and stems with feta cheese, tomato, onion, eventually find yourself seeking these been gathering and garlic, oregano and olive oil or use it plants out and making sure they go to seed eating stinging as a filling in baked pastries. It’s low in to create next year’s “crop.” nettles for decades. cholesterol, a good source of vitamins These plants are everywhere except I learned of them and minerals and is best-known as having in stores, and it’s another way to get from my friend more omega-3 fatty acids than any other outside, interact with the natural world, and mentor, Kay leafy plant on earth. and bring home some fresh food as well. Young, author of The wild edible weeds listed below Wild Seasons. Dandelion, Taraxacum officinale are tasty, easy to harvest and prepare Nettles are one of We spend millions of dollars to and many can be frozen or dried for use the first plants to rid our lawns of this weed that could later. Much of the following information emerge in spring contribute to our kitchen and bathroom is from the websites listed at the end.... and need to be gathered early. You’ll cabinets. Dandelions were a staple of with a special thanks to Kay Young for feel the sting when you harvest them, early colonial life as all parts of the plant her excellent guide and cookbook, Wild so wear gloves; but the stinging hairs Seasons: Gathering and Cooking Wild dissolve and are harmless once Plants of the Great Plains. cooked. They taste better to me than Warning: please note that careful any other green and can be dried identification is an essential first step to for winter use, so fill a grocery any foraging. bag when you find them. They’re packed with 17 essential vitamins and minerals, phytonutrients like deep-green chlorophyll (a detoxifying, antimicrobial enzyme) and carotenoids, along with fatty acids, lycopene and several other beneficial phytochemicals. I am not are edible. Leaves can be eaten as salad a big tea drinker, but nettle tea is one of greens or steamed; flowers can be made my favorites. into wine and syrup and the roots can be steeped for tea or roasted as a coffee substitute. It’s low in calories but high in fiber and vitamins A, C and K.

18 Dock, Curly or Sour, Rumex crispus This weed is everywhere and almost impossible to eradicate, so we might as well use it. Fortunately its tender top leaves are a delicious spring or late fall green. Larger leaves (with tough center veins removed) can be cooked for “dock roll-ups” in place of grape or cabbage leaves. Its leaves are high in beta- carotene, vitamin C and zinc. Folklorist Roger Welsch, author of Weed ‘Em and Reap, says—“boil or steam fresh young leaves for just a short time, add a few drops of fresh lemon juice, a little bacon grease or butter and a little salt and you will have a first rate, and very wholesome, vegetable green to go along with your T-bone steak.” Kay Young’s grandchildren called this the “doc” plant, since it was used to treat skin problems.

Bedstraw or cleavers, Galium aparineis Bedstraw emerges in March. Rather than letting it sprawl into and smother Asiatic dayflower,Commelina other plants, it can be gathered to add to communis smoothies; dried for tea; or finely chopped Common milkweed in the wild, and sauteed. This plant has a pea-like sweetness. to add to soups or other dishes. It’s high in Its stem, leaves, flowers and seeds Vitamin C and in minerals like silica that are edible for several months over the while still young and green, cooked for are necessary for the health of nails, hair summer but get tougher with age so it’s about 10 minutes, drained and used in and teeth. best to harvest only fresh young growth at casseroles or soups. Native Americans the top. They can be eaten steamed, boiled simmered the pods with buffalo meat as or fried and are especially good creamed. Common Milkweed, Asclepias syriaca a natural meat tenderizer since they have Its name derives from the flowers which We’re growing it for butterflies but an enzyme called papain that breaks down open for only one day and can be eaten it’s one of the best wild edibles for us connective tissues in meats (the same fresh in salads. as well, and for most of the growing substance is derived from papayas for use season. The soft, tender young shoots in commercial meat tenderizers). Finally, There are many other great plants for of common milkweed can be harvested in late summer the tiny new leaves on top foraging—common plantain, wild violet, before the leaves unfurl in spring. The of the plant can be fried in a bit of olive catnip, burdock, wild mustard, etc. milky sap is mildly toxic and needs to be oil for crispy leaves with a tasty, earthy This information is not intended as boiled for a few minutes and the water flavor. medical advice. Besides Kay Young’s discarded. Once cooked, they taste like Wild Seasons, much of this information a mix of green beans and asparagus. was gleaned from, and is available, Later in the summer, the fragrant flower online. clusters can be dipped in fritter batter, dropped into hot peanut oil and dusted with powdered sugar. Don’t collect all of the flower clusters, as the immature seed pods can be harvested later in the season Nebraska Statewide Arboretum Non Profit University of Nebraska U.S. Postage 102 Keim Hall PAID No Room P.O. Box 830964 UNL Lincoln, NE 68583-0964 for Weeds

One of the best ways to reduce the need for weeding is to simplyleave no room for them. Below are some low, spread- ing plants that can help suppress weeds. Alumroot, Heuchera richardsonii Barren strawberry, Geum fragarioides Cranesbill, Geranium Dwarf spiderwort, Tradescantia tharpii Evening primrose, Oenothera Fleabane, Erigeron pulchellus Hairy golden aster, Chrysopsis villosa Ornamental onion, Allium Packera, Packera plattensis Pasqueflower, Pulsatilla Poppymallow, Callirhoe Prairie petunia, Ruellia humilis Violet, Viola Prairie smoke, Geum triflorum Pussytoes, Antennaria Sedges, Carex Windflower, Anemone

“A weed is a plant that is not only in the wrong place, but intends to stay.” Sara Stein

Phragmites (Lincoln Journal Star photo) Lots of Ways to Connect

O JOIN US for talks, tours, plant sales and free First Thursday noon brownbags at the Jayne Snyder Trail Center, 228 N 21st in Lincoln O BUY NATIVE & recommended plants from us, many with local seed source O RECOMMEND us to friends, family and co-workers O GIVE. We are a grassroots nonprofit that relies on our members O FOLLOW us on Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram plantnebraska.org