York, explaining the benefits of the Colorado Mountain Club at the Sustainable Living Fair (Photo by Don Carpenter).
Inside
Chairs Corner: Leadership Static Peak - Pyramid Peak CMC at the Column: Mt. Richthofen Centennial Sustainable Mountaineering Traverse Celebration Living Fair Rest Step Climb
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CMC Fort Collins Group Newsletter 1 October 2012
CMC at the Sustainable Living Fair
Certainly there could be no other set up for the Fair, we see this as place more beautiful in Septem- Chair's Corner a great way to promote CMC in ber than our Colorado mountains. the future. Over 70 people Those sentiments must have stopped by our booth to chat and been in mind when CMC desig- pick up literature. Our efforts paid nated September 8th as Cen- off as we recruited four new fam- ntenial 14ers Celebration Day. ily memberships from avid hikers Perhaps you were among the and lovers of the outdoors. Thank CMC members who trekked up you Planet Bluegrass!! We hope the trails to all the 14ers that to return to the Sustainable Living weekend. Fair with reinforcements next year! After that weekend we were glad for the opportunity to take it a Please remember to send in your little easy at the Sustainable Liv- reservations for our Annual Din- ing Fair here in Fort Collins, Sep- ner Meeting (Annual Dinner Res- tember 15 and 16. Not quite a word about CMC. Planet Blue- ervation Form) , which will be mountain top experience, the Fair grass provides sustainable festi- held on November 10th. It prom- provided another type of excite- vals including the Telluride Blue ises to be an interesting and en- ment. Planet Bluegrass gra- Grass Festival and the Rocky joyable evening. See you there! ciously offered us booth space at Mountain Folk Festival in Lyons. the Fair and helped us in our first Although we (Don and York) - Don Carpenter, Chair, Fort efforts in this venue to spread the made a last minute scramble to Collins Group The Fort Collins Group Welcomes New Members:
August Ross McConnell Colin Millar; Charlie & Katherine Potter, Keith, Helen, Alisha & Laura Wolfe; Marie September Woodring; Ruth, Bruce; Rachel & Rusty Lieurance October Adam Redgrave; Brian Bell; Dan Robinson
See you on the trail!
Fort Collins Leadership Column: Mountaineering Rest Step: An Essential Pacing Tool
In the last column, I described sweep, of course) keep the per- have different stride lengths, the buddy-back system, whereby son behind them in sight. But some might say that is unnatural. you keep a group together by because this requires the same I agree that it is natural to swing having everyone (except the pace be used by all, and people your leg, especially with boots,
CMC Fort Collins Group Newsletter 2 October 2012
and thus the length of your natu- And sprinting up the slope with 4) Swing your bent leg ral stride is a function of your leg repeated rests is simply not a forward, plant that foot, length. good idea. Just think of competi- straighten the knee, and tive long distance runners and rest on this locked knee. So here is a puzzle - one essen- cyclists – do they sprint and rest, 5) Repeat! tial team element of Expedition sprint and rest? No, they main- Behavior requires everyone to tain an even pace until the end is A new CMC member, who was moderate their pace to match within reach. And their events are used to dashing and panting her that of the slowest member. typically much shorter than our way up the mountain, listened to Rushing that person really isn’t mountain outings. this description and immediately an option as driving a person to interjected, “it is just like the exhaustion is a certain way to So how does an entire hiking bride’s slow walk down the aisle!” create an emergency later. group maintain a steady, reason- And so it is, except you seldom able pace for hours on end? The get a nice ring at the end of your Moreover, when hiking up steep key is the mountaineering rest journey. terrain, especially when carrying step. a heavy pack, it is important to If you want to watch a master at pace yourself so that you stay The mountaineering rest step is the mountaineering rest step, just aerobic. Studies (gleaned from fairly simple, but does take some go on a hike with Steve Martin. my son’s nursing physiology text practice: He maintains a slow yet steady book) have shown that staying 1) step forward, pace, rarely pausing, that really aerobic is 10X more efficient en- planting your leading eats up the miles. With the moun- ergy-wise than going anaerobic. foot. taineering rest step, you can walk You can judge your aerobic- 2) move forward and for hours without resting, ascend anaerobic threshold by noting straighten the leading steep passes with a very heavy your ability to talk – if you are leg, locking your knee so pack, and deal effectively with working so hard that you can’t it takes all of your weight. the thin air of high altitude. And talk, you have probably gone an- 3) Pause briefly or sub- perhaps best of all, the mountain- aerobic. Going anaerobic is a stantially, depending on eering rest step allows you to bad thing in the mountains as its your need, with your match your pace to the group’s extreme energy consumption weight supported by your pace without changing your natu- commonly results in exhaustion locked leg. The other leg ral stride length, resulting in a (“hitting the wall” or “bonking”). rests, hanging with a smooth and unified transit This is dangerous as it can take bent knee from the hip, through our mountains. days to recover from a bonk – often with the toe of its trust me, been there, done that. boot resting lightly - Eric Erslev, Ft. Collins CMC against the ground. Leadership & Safety Coordinator
Radical Reels 2012: October 11th and 12th Radical Reels is just week away! Faster, steeper, higher, deeper! The most outrageous films from the Banff Mountain Film Festival will thrill and inspire you with big-screen adventures when Radical Reels comes to the American Mountaineering Center on October 11 and 12. To buy tickets, watch the trailer, or view the list of films, visit www.cmc.org/rad. Here’s our Facebook invite to join: https://www.facebook.com/events/262744260512363/ Thurs, Oct 11 and Fri, Oct 12 Cost $12
CMC Fort Collins Group Newsletter 3 October 2012
Static Peak-Mount Richthofen Traverse
Having had a mountain cabin for day on this challenging, special Mark led the group anyway to a many years in the Gould area route with Club members. successful summit of Static Peak near Cameron Pass, I have come via the east ridge. However, to know the Never Summer and Actually, the genesis of this idea thunderstorms began to unfold Rawah Ranges pretty well. I still started in the summer of 2011, and the group decided against find them to rival some of the when I agreed to co-lead this the Richthofen traverse because most impressive landscapes in very trip with Mark Lorie, who it would be vulnerable to lightning Rocky Mountain National Park, chose this venue as one in a se- for several more hours. After but without the throngs of people ries of Young Adventurer’s trips. exploring a few alternative de- and traffic to get there. Although I am hardly qualified as scent possibilities, the group de- a “young adventurer”, Mark and cided to hunker down to wait out One of the perks I get from lead- Kevin McCartney invited me to most of the storm, before retrac- ing Fort Collins Group CMC trips join in because of my familiarity ing the ascent route back down is being able to choose venues of of the route. As it turned out, I the east ridge. So, there were special interest or personal had to abandon my plan to be some on this trip who did not meaning. Having been on these with the group, for family rea- have the opportunity to complete marvelous peaks before, I could sons. the Richthofen traverse. Now, on not resist the idea of sharing a August 18, 2012, they had an-
The view from the trail to the Michigan (American) Lakes. The right-most peak is Static Peak, showing the knife-edge east ridge arising from the Snow Lake moraine. The next peak to the left of Static is Mount Richthofen, then further left is the “Electrode”. Photo by Scott Farquhar.
CMC Fort Collins Group Newsletter 4 October 2012
Climbers along the knife-edge ridge leading to Static Peak. Photo by Scott Farquhar. other chance, and under fine at this elevation (roughly At this point, I always think “Am I weather as it turned out. 10,800’). From here, a good trail really going to climb that ridge?” winds its way back toward the It is steep, exposed, and intimi- After dropping a car at the Lake northwest, gaining the east ridge dating. However, once the steep Agnes trailhead, we drove to the of the Nokhu Crags at about climb to the south actually be- American Lakes trailhead and 11,000’ and treeline. The trail gins, roughly 150 vertical feet started hiking with just enough next proceeds mostly southwest, above Snow Lake, I find it less light to dispense with headlamps. passing just north of the Michigan intimidating and not all that diffi- The trail follows an old logging Lakes, also called the American cult. Depending on the actual road up and across the Michigan Lakes. A more beautiful trail is route chosen, the terrain is Ditch, and continues along a very hard to imagine, with the Crags, mostly Class 2, with Class 3 scenic meadow lying at the west- Static, Richthofen, “Electrode”, moves needed in a few spots. I ern base of Thunder Mountain. Lulu and Thunder Mountain all in asked Co-leader Eric Erslev to When we reached this point, Lulu full view across the lush alpine lead this section, which he enthu- Mountain loomed up directly to meadows and lakes. siastically did, and did well. The the south, getting ever larger as ridge gradually narrows and we approached it, the sun lighting After a relaxing break at the sec- makes a sharp turn to the right, the upper slopes. The long- ond Michigan Lake, the serious heading west across a long knife abandoned logging road ends at uphill part began with a climb up edge section. Here, we took a the Middle Fork of the Michigan the terminal moraine which cre- breather and, as Gerry Roach River, just a two foot wide stream ated Snow Lake, lying at 11,516’. advises in his climbing guide,
CMC Fort Collins Group Newsletter 5 October 2012
Our group on the summit of Static Peak. Standing from left to right are Carolyn Hammond, Péter Bodig, JoAnn Herkenhoff, and Ward Whicker; sitting left to right are Scott Farquhar, Eric Erslev and Ron Rosenberg. Photo by tripod, technology and Scott’s knowhow. considered our future. and interesting route. I asked loose, large talus to the start of Péter to select the safest pas- the broad saddle, a continuation At this point, I suggested that sage, although more “sporting” over a rocky ridge along much of Péter Bodig be given the chance ones are readily available, some the saddle, down to a small dip at to lead. Péter is a CMC leader of them mere inches left or right. the south end of the saddle, then from the Durango CMC Group Luckily, the “knife” is not as sharp a long, tiring climb over more with lots of climbing experience. as it could be. loose talus to the summit of Rich- The knife edge portion of Static’s thofen. We found a faint, discon- east ridge is very exposed on After a couple of hundred yards tinuous trail near the north ridge, both sides and quite narrow, but I of knife edge, the terrain mel- where the going was sometimes have found this part to be exhila- lowed and an easy scramble over a little easier. After what seemed rating, fun, and relatively comfort- large talus soon found us on the a long time, we finally emerged able Class 3 terrain. Strong fo- summit of Static Peak. Weather on the summit and the horseshoe cus is needed here, and I doubt of the day presented no worries, -shaped rock shelter, likely that many if any people at this so we took a leisurely break and formed decades ago by wind- point would worry about their refueled for the next section. blown climbers. Again, a longer bills, work or love life. I sensed break was welcome. Nowhere to that everyone in our group truly The route from Static to go from here but down, down, enjoyed this part, dutifully follow- Richthofen is straightforward: A down. The views from both ing Péter along a straightforward slow descent over relatively Static and Richthofen are as-
CMC Fort Collins Group Newsletter 6 October 2012
tounding, especially looking broad, steep scree and talus where in the world our group had south down the spine of the slope to the saddle or col dividing come from. The well-travelled Never Summer Range. Peaks, Richthofen from Mount Mahler. trail from Lake Agnes to our car jagged spires and ridges, forests at the trailhead was very wel- and meadows, all too numerous From here, we turned north to- come after so many hours of bal- to count; too much to fully ab- ward Lake Agnes and negotiated ancing on frequently unstable sorb. On this day, distant ranges more scree and talus until we rock. to the southeast, south, west, were able to access a mostly al- and north were visible despite pine meadow/stable rock terrain Upon our return to the Lake haze from western forest fires. by veering east of the main col. Agnes TH, my GPS registered Our rate of progress increased as 3,400’ of elevation gain in a bit Next, we needed to drop into a we approached the southeast over 8 miles. Not terribly impres- small, steep gully directly west of corner of Lake Agnes. The easi- sive numbers for over 11 hours of the summit to get onto Rich- est and shortest way around the hard effort! Of course, this is not thofen’s west ridge. Individuals Lake is along the east shore, really surprising given the terrain chose their own routes here, but where a semblance of a trail is and our need for several well- due to loose rock, we climbed obvious across the steep talus deserved rest stops. The next down one at a time, which of slope fed by rock fall off the day, my body thought the dis- course takes time. After this, it Nokhu Crags. We encountered tance was more like 14 miles and was a matter of following the the first humans outside our 4,500’ elevation, but I best be- ridge west to a “false summit”, group that day, fishing at Lake lieve the GPS. then a tedious descent down a Agnes. I’m sure they wondered
JoAnn Herkenhoff dropping into the steep gully just off the summit of Mount Richthofen. Lake Agnes is visible, as well as the ridge leading from Static Peak to the Nokhu Crags. Photo by Scott Farquhar.
CMC Fort Collins Group Newsletter 7 October 2012
Anyway, I think the group felt a My advice to anyone wanting to escape. Ah, but so rewarding in real sense of accomplishment try this route, is to not underesti- the end! and I offer my congratulations to mate it, and to realize that one is all for a fine mountaineering ef- very exposed to weather, well- - Ward Whicker fort. above treeline, for 5-6 hours, with essentially no chance for a quick Pyramid Peak Centennial Celebration Climb
The Colorado Mountain Club be- were exchanged between the age allowed, and posters at the gan its 100-year anniversary CMC command center and trip command center highlighted pro- celebration in the summer of leaders to provide real-time up- gress of the various groups as 2011 with a call for trip leaders to dates and photos of the climbs. they checked in throughout the participate in the Centennial Anticipated start, end, treeline day. All systems were “go”. Celebration Climbs program with and summit times were commu- a goal to climb all high 100 peaks nicated when cell phone cover- Pyramid is located in the Maroon in Colorado during 2011 and 2012. For such a special occa- sion, I decided to lead Longs Peak since it’s so close to Fort Collins. With my sister, Susan Baker, as co-leader we success- fully led a group of 6 climbers on August 16, 2011 up the popular keyhole route. Wow – that was great, but now what can we do during the summer of 2012 to really put the icing on the birth- day cake? How about Pyramid? Now that would be a real chal- lenge to lead a group up this class 4 mountain! So we began to plan for our next epic adven- ture – Pyramid in honor of the CMC’s 100 year anniversary on Fourteener Challenge Day.
Saturday, September 8th was the officially designated Colorado Fourteener Challenge day. The goal was to have CMC trips up all but two of the 54 fourteeners in Colorado (two of the mountains could not be climbed due to re- stricted access). There would be camera crews along on several of the trips with an ongoing me- dia blitz, aircraft circling peaks to catch a glimpse of the climbers, and weather forecasters and emergency first aid contacts available at the CMC command center in Frisco. Phone numbers Ledges. Photo by Clint Baker
CMC Fort Collins Group Newsletter 8 October 2012
Steepness. Photo by Clint Baker
Bells wilderness area. Therefore nately had to cancel within 24 our group size was automatically hours of the trip. Now the real work began. Once limited to 10 and we knew it in the upper basin, we wore our would be a popular trip for many Plans were set, campsites re- climbing helmets and started up CMC members who wanted to served and the excitement was in very steep scree gullies to the climb this spectacular mountain – the air. The Saturday morning northeast ridge saddle. Here we we were right. Shortly after post- 4:00 AM wakeup call in the Silver decided to take a much deserved ing the trip in the schedule, it was Bar campground came much too break while scoping the upper full. Our team included members early, but we were ready! With reaches of Pyramid with an ob- from the Fort Collins, Boulder headlamps on and helmets in the structed view of the summit. and Denver groups. We had a packs, we headed up the trail Here’s where the major climbing brother and sister team (Clint and before 5:00 AM. Still in the begins. Pyramid has very Susan Baker), father and son – dark, the switchbacks up to the loose rock but the upper section Ken and Casey John, husband ampitheather below Pyramid’s of the mountain has many ledges and wife teams – Bob Dietz and north face were relentless. As along the route that were very Laura Hinds, and the CMC’s dawn began to emerge, we were well marked with cairns. As the Chief Executive Officer and her treated to the spectacular sight of climb continued, we were treated husband – Katie Blackett and the early morning sun lighting up to encounters with several moun- Matt Schneider. We also had the Maroon Bells with their red- tain goats who showed remark- CMC Foundation vice-president dish glow and the aspens in the able agility on the rocky ledges. Steve Bain from Denver and valley shimmering with the We had to watch out to be sure another individual who unfortu- changing fall colors. Life is good! they didn’t knock any rocks down
CMC Fort Collins Group Newsletter 9 October 2012
this really didn’t bother anyone photos, Susan opened her pack on the team. We pressed forward and pulled out a peach pie, com- making steady progress and en- plete with candles! The icing on suring that everyone was safe. the top said “Happy Birthday Ca- Crossing an exposed ledge was sey and CMC”. In fact, today was a highlight for several in the also Casey’s 20th birthday – group – the photos make this what a special treat to celebrate look a lot scarier than it really your birthday on the summit of was. Before long, we were on the Pyramid and have your group summit – WOW!!!! What a spec- sing Happy Birthday to you. tacular feeling to be standing on Lighting candles on a this majestic mountain, looking fourteener is a real challenge. across at the Maroon Bells, Snowmass and Capitol. We truly To round out the summit experi- were on top of the world. ence, the team then assembled and we asked another hiker to Now, what are we celebrating photograph the group with our Pie with Bells today? Of course, the Colorado official Colorado Fourteener Mountain Club’s 100 year anni- Challenge – Pyramid Peak on us. versary. But wait, there’s more. poster. After everyone had performed Scrambling high on the mountain, the mandatory high fives, hand Heading down the mountain, we the climbing became steeper but shakes and taken summit encountered more climbers and
Pyramid Peak Summit Photo: Front row - Ken John, Susan Baker; Middle row - Matt Schneider, Katie Blackett, Clint Baker, Casey John; Back row – Laura Hinds, Steve Bain, Bob Dietz
CMC Fort Collins Group Newsletter 10 October 2012
mountain goats along the way. half hour hike. What an incredible you’ve done to protect and pre- The afternoon sun again high- and unforgettable way to cele- serve these majestic mountains, lighted the spectacular fall colors brate the club’s 100 year anniver- today and for future generations. below Pyramid and the Maroon sary. Bells. Everyone arrived safely - Clint Baker back at the parking lot around Thanks to the CMC - members 4:30 making this an eleven and a and supporters - for everything
Support quiet winter backcountry recreation at the 20th annual Backcountry Bash! Join us on Saturday, November 3rd for the 20th annual Backcountry Bash. The event supports the Backcountry Snowsports Initiative program and the Colorado Mountain Club’s conservation work. The Backcountry Snowsports Initiative works to protect the winter backcountry and human-powered recrea- tional opportunities. Hosted by pro backcountry skier Donny Roth, the Bash will feature beer by Avery Brewing Company, food by Chipotle Mexican Grill, a great lineup of ski films, and an incredible auction of gear and hut trips. This year’s films include a festival cut of Jeremy Jones’s films Further and Skiing the Void, from Sweetgrass Productions. Visit www.cmc.org/Bash to view the trailer and to buy tickets! Cost: $35
CMC Fort Collins Group Newsletter 11 October 2012
Fort Collins CMC wishes to thank busi- This newsletter is published by the Fort Collins Group of nesses that have previously supported the Colorado Mountain Club. Please send submissions us with paid advertising in our newslet- to [email protected] by the 10th of the month to be ter. However, due to a policy change , included in the next month’s edition. Please call the we will no longer be including paid CMC State Membership office at 800.633.4417 commercial advertising. to notify them of address changes.
Editors note: the following list identifies officers for the 2012 calendar year. Chair Don Carpenter (970) 267-6793 [email protected] Secretary Linda Brisbane (970) 223-6968 [email protected] Treasurer Bob Link (970) 631-8600 [email protected] Activities Mike Smilie (970) 231-2923 [email protected] Leadership and Safety Eric Erslev (970) 231-2654 [email protected] Membership and Public Relations Scott Farquhar (970) 204-6936 [email protected] Newsletter - Editor John Wullschleger (970) 206-4880 [email protected] Programs Kevin McCartney (970) 266-0283 [email protected] Trails Vacant – need volunteer Mountain Hiking School David Wasson (970) 207-1795 [email protected] Trip Leadership Course Eric Erslev (970) 231-2654 [email protected] Basic Mountaineering Course Gordon Thibedeau (970) 223-1758 [email protected]
Rock Leading Course Vacant – need volunteer
Colorado Mountain Club Fort Collins Group Website: FortCMC.org Facebook: www.facebook.com/groups/fortcollinscmcgroup
CMC Fort Collins Group Newsletter 12 October 2012