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Communiqué CHINAWATCH Jeudi 24 mars 2016 LE FIGARO CHINA DAILY Le marché du luxe face à une Le choix des 83%-c’est la proportion des consommateurs- marques de luxe en faveur de marques qui ont fermé au clientèle plus exigeante exclusives, haut-de-gamme, moins l’un de leurs surtout les marques de magasins en Chine produits sur-mesure qui en 2015 Les Chinois achètent des articles de mode dans connaîtront une forte 106,4 milliards d’euros - croissance du fait que les Les acquisitions- consommateurs chinois de le monde entier, et les maisons locales font leur c’est le montant des c’est la voie préférée luxe recherchent la qualité, des marques de luxe, y articles de luxe achetés par la finition et la tradition 20%-c’est la part des marché en quête de marques pour se développer. les consommateurs chinois produits et des services compris les plus grandes, pour en 2015, soit une hausse de sur mesure sur le marché Reportage de Xu Junqian. pénétrer sur de 9% en glissement annuel chinois du luxe en 2015, La roulette de la en nette augmentation nouveaux marchés distribution -les points cette année de vente exclusifs défieront Les prises de algré des pertes en 2015 pour les grands magasins cette la deuxième année consécu- année, obligeant ces derniers participation- tive, les distributeurs, les in- à orir une valeur ajoutée à une alternative vestisseurs et les spécialistes leurs consommateurs en leur aux acquisitions pour s’introduire du secteur misent sur l’avenir proposant de vivre la mode autrement sur de nouveaux Mprometteur de l’industrie du luxe chinoise, marchés portée par la dynamique d’une croissance à deux chiff res au cours des dernières années. Une étude du Fortune Character Institute, COMMENT SE PRÉSENTE qui a des bureaux à Shanghai, à Londres et dans le Connecticut aux États-Unis, semble confi rmer cet optimisme. L’an dernier, les L’ANNÉE POUR LE LUXE consommateurs chinois ont acheté 46% des Les perspectives- produits de luxe vendus dans le monde en- le segment des services tier, dont 78% ont été acquis hors de Chine. sur mesure engendrera le Les acheteurs chinois d’articles de haute plus grand nombre de couture et de produits de luxe deviennent Le commerce en débouchés cette année, aussi de plus en plus exigeants. Une marque ligne- notamment en ce qui trop facilement disponible ou trop visible, ce les socié- un nouveau vecteur concerne les projets de de croissance rapide services de ce type sur n’est pas pour eux. En achetant et en en- tés et les investisseurs chinois Internet en Chine courageant ce qui se fait de mieux parmi les en veulent une part, ils devront cette année pour les Les investissements- fabricants de produits marques de luxe existantes, ils se font créa- être plus activement présents de luxe, qui ajouteront teurs de tendances. dans chaque maillon de la chaîne les services liés aux achats de produits de vraisemblablement à Cherchant à voguer sur la vague mon- logistique, depuis la conception et la luxe haut-de-gamme la distribution tante du souci de la mode qu’ont acquis les fabrication jusqu’à la commercialisa- suscitent un grand traditionnelle les consommateurs chinois, le Shandong Ruyi tion et la distribution ». intérêt de la part des achats en ligne et les Group, l’un des grands producteurs de tex- Les choses sont allées dans ce sens investisseurs cette année applications mobiles tiles en Chine, aurait rejoint la liste des candi- dernièrement. Par exemple, Vipshop Hol- dats à la reprise du groupe français de prêt- dings, l’enseigne chinoise de mode en ligne à-porter SMCP, indiquait l’agence Bloomberg lancée localement et connue pour sa po- Source : Fortune Character Institute SU JINGBO ET MA XUEJING / CHINA DAILY en janvier dernier. Ce mois-ci, l’agence Reu- litique de rabais, a investi plusieurs millions ters a cité des sources selon lesquelles les de livres sterling en novembre dernier pour doute des investisseurs mondiaux. du premier espace multimarques dans le Michele Alberti. Son équipe d’acheteurs ex- pourparlers n’avaient pas abouti mais qu’un prendre une participation minoritaire dans la Pour Michele Alberti, président-directeur grand magasin Friendship Department périmentés à Milan contribuera à la sélection accord n’était pas encore tout à fait exclu. maison de mode britannique BrandAlley, en général de Luxemporium Investments SA, Store de Tianjin en janvier dernier. Situé au des marques destinées aux points de vente Le groupe SMCP est évalué à plus d’un mil- vue de présenter un plus grand nombre de une compagnie d’import-export de prêt-à- premier étage, le magasin Luxemporium de en Chine. liard de dollars (914,1 millions d’euros). Il dé- marques britanniques en Chine. porter basée en Suisse, qui compte comme 3 000 mètres carrés off re une large gamme Pour le PDG, « (malgré le ralentissement tient des marques de luxe abordables telles Un mois auparavant, son concurrent co-investisseur le Shanghai Spring Bamboo de chaussures, de sacs et d’accessoires économique), les gens achètent encore et que Maje et Sandro, dont le succès parmi la Secoo.com avait défrayé la chronique en ou- Group, premier fabricant local de laine et de de plus de 80 marques diff érentes, dont achètent beaucoup (en Chine). C’est juste classe moyenne grandissante en Chine s’est vrant la première boutique interactive mul- cachemire, les consommateurs chinois de- quelques-unes sont des marques de créa- qu’ils n’achètent pas ce qu’ils avaient l’ha- affi rmé au cours des dernières années. tinationale sur la Piazza del Duomo, l’un des viennent plus avisés. Mais il n’y a pas lieu de teurs parmi les plus recherchées, telles que bitude d’acheter ». L’expansion de Luxem- Le Shandong Ruyi Group fi gure parmi les quartiers commerçants les plus fréquentés les distinguer et de les traiter comme s’ils 3.1 Phillip Lim, Charlotte Olympia et Sophie porium, principalement dans des villes de quatre premières des 500 grandes entre- de Milan. étaient une race diff érente. Hulme. deuxième et de troisième catégorie, est sus- prises textiles en Chine et a affi ché un chiff re Li Rixue, fondateur et directeur général de « Il convient de ne plus considérer les Selon M. Alberti, un tiers d’entre elles sont ceptible de combler le creux que la ferme- d’aff aires record de 30 milliards de yuan (4,2 Secoo.com, a créé le site Web à Beijing il y a consommateurs chinois comme une clien- des marques de créateurs qui devien- ture de magasins d’autres grandes marques milliards d’euros) en 2013. Il s’est refusé à sept ans. Il voit dans le magasin de Milan un tèle à part », estime M. Alberti, qui a exercé nent très demandées en Chine et ailleurs. a laissé dans le commerce du luxe en Chine, tout commentaire concernant l’intérêt qu’on élément du « plan décennal de mondialisa- des responsabilités directoriales dans de « Cela se passe partout, particulièrement estime M. Alberti. lui prête au sujet du rachat de SMCP. tion de la société ». Les professionnels du grandes sociétés de luxe telles que Bally et en Chine… Même les plus riches associent Zhang Jie, PDG de la Luxemporium Inter- Une telle acquisition « ne serait qu’une secteur estiment que l’expansion agressive Salvatore Ferragamo. « On me demande des vêtements H&M ou Zara à des sacs et national Trading (Shanghai) Co, l’antenne goutte d’eau dans l’océan, car les Chinois de Secoo.com relève d’une stratégie visant toujours ce qui distingue le plus les Chinois des chaussures beaucoup plus chers et locale de la fi rme suisse, fait savoir qu’un gravissent rapidement les échelons vers le à cibler les touristes chinois qui dépensent des autres consommateurs. Je pense que plus chics. Les gens recherchent le style projet ambitieux est en train de prendre sommet de l’industrie du luxe », affi rme le di- beaucoup d’argent en Europe. (c’est le fait) qu’ils ressemblent de plus en plutôt que l’affi rmation de soi ». forme : « Luxemporium ne s’adresse pas recteur du Fortune Character Institute, Zhou Zhou Ting explique que c’est probablement plus aux consommateurs des autres pays, Au cours de la prochaine décennie, la socié- seulement aux clients chinois. La Chine est Ting. « Le marché (du luxe) reste l’un des plus ce que les Chinois achètent, où et comment sinon qu’ils montrent le chemin à l’industrie ». té prévoit d’ouvrir au moins une boutique le point de départ mais nous voulons être lucratifs pour le moment et (le restera)pour ils achètent qui déterminera où sera injecté Michele Alberti a rejoint Luxemporium en par an en Chine, un pays dont l’industrie du présents dans d’autres pays, en Asie, en la prochaine décennie. Ce qui signifi e que si l’argent des investisseurs chinois, et sans 2014 et joué un rôle clé dans l’ouverture luxe « ne décline pas, mais évolue », affi rme Europe et en Amérique ». Une réaffi rmation rassurante sur la croissance Par Andrew Moody prochaines années au moment où le gouver- fort fi nancier dans les infrastructures et que La récente réunion à Shanghai des dirigeants nement s’attaquera aux entreprises « zom- nous allons voir également d’autres aspects des banques centrales et des ministres des L’insistance avec laquelle le Premier ministre 13,8 bie » qui sont un poids pour l’économie. de la politique économique de la Chine ren- Finances des pays du G20 a éludé cette op- chinois, Li Keqiang, affi rme que la Chine ne Les marchés des matières premières, en forcer la croissance ».
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