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BRITISH COLUMBIA HISTORICAL NEWS

Volume 26, No. 4 Journal of B.C. Historical Federation Fall - 1993 EDITORIAL CONTENTS The B.C. Historical News is sponsored FEATURES Page a provincial federation aiming to inform by Atlin Adventure 2 readers about events and people from all by Hon. James Harvey, QC over the province. In this issue we present two writers who make their homes in Pemberton Pioneer 4 Prince Rupert and a lady from Hudson’s by Anita Ronayne McWilliams Hope who tells of her father’s enterprises which concluded with farming in Early Travelling in the Columbia-Kootenay Valley 7 Pemberton. You will have a look at by R.C. Harris transportation in the Columbia-Kootenay Canon Stanley Smith: Missions to Seamen Valley in eastern British Columbia and a 11 rich American who purchased an island by RoyJ.V. Pallant near Albemi. We have a few more good Winged Victory 1918: CPR’s War Memorial 16 stories to share with in future you issues by Helen Borrell but urge would-be writers to get their favorite bits of local history typed, double- A Vanderbilt at Alberni 18 spaced, and mailed to the editor before the by Jan Peterson winter is over. We hope that local societies are making Bridges To Our Past 22 some move to observe Women’s History by Tom Parkin Month in October. A caller from Delta The Very Beginnings of Prince Rupert urged that we devote the Fall 1994 issue to 25 by Phylis Bowman Women’s History. I have agreed ... and it will be then that a composite story of McVittie Brothers: Land Surveyors 28 Women’s Institutes in B.C. appears, by Robert W. Allen (Several WI members have cooperated but more is needed.) There are many NEWS & NOTES 31 possible stories about unsung heroines (and heros). We need your help to write, BOOK SHELF or to persuade others to write, for YOUR 32 historical journal. The Struggle for Social Justice in B.C.: Helena Gutteridge .. . . 32 Naomi Miller Review by Mark Leier Aboriginal Peoples and Politics 33 COVER CREDIT Review by Werner Kaschel “Bridges To Our Past” includes reference The Fraser Valley: A History 34 to this steel cantilever bridge over Niagara Review by Jim Bowman Canyon at the Malahat Summit, Mile 14 north of Victoria on the Esquimalt and Fraser Valley Challenge 33 Nanaimo Railway. This is the third span at Review by Werner Kaschel location since 1886. The this first two were Fish Hooks and timber trestles. This steel bridge was Caulk Boots 34 originally erected over the Fraser River at Review by Peggy Imredy Cisco, B.C. It was reassembled here in Other Publications Noted 1911 and reinforced in 1940. The height 34 from creek to rail is 79 metres. Photo WRITING COMPET1TION ENTRIES 1992 36 courtesy of Tom Parkin.

Manuscripts and correspondence for the editor are to be sent to P.O. Box 105, Wasa, BC, VOB 2K0 Correspondence regarding subscriptions is to be directed to the subscription secretary (see inside back cover)

Punted in canada by Kootenay Kwik Print Ltd. B.C. Historical News . Fall 1993 Atlin Adventure

by The HonourableJames Harvey, Q. C. Ketchikan, Alaska, to Meanwhile, Barr had managed to pick me up in Prince reach Atlin and land on a primitive gravel Rupert, then fly to airstrip which, appropriately, had a cem Lakelse Lake where etery at both ends. Matthews was deter Juneau we would land and mined that Barr should fly me to Juneau pick up Fred Nash, a where landing was a less hazardous op surveyor whom I had eration than take-off. However he insisted arranged to be in a that I was to pay Barr nothing. Matthews rowboat at the ex drove me from Spruce Creek to Atlin and b)Prince Rupert pected time ofour ar I found Barr at the home of the parents of rival. All went well an attractive young lady whom he hoped and we flew directly to marry. Her surname was Sand or Sands. to Juneau, Alaska, I gave him Matthews’ instructions but he where we met Isaac said he had no money to buy gasoline for Matthews. He had the trip to Juneau. After a discussion last arranged for us to be ing far into the night I agreed to pay him flown from there to $20 from my own pocket. Early next Atlin by a Canadian morning, in spite of heavy rain and lim pilot named Barr who ited visibility, we took off After about an had an ancient cargo hour! noticed that Barr was losing altitude Atlin was the one town in the County plane on wheels. Barr used the mud flats and peering out of the side window as of Prince Rupert that survived the 1929— at Juneau as a runway, the only method though searching for something. Then he 1939 Depression. In his first term Presi for a wheeled aircraft. But take-off de reduced speed and began to circle over a dent F.D. Roosevelt caused the price of pended on the conjunction of tide and river in which there were many sand bars gold to rise from $23 and some odd cents wind. The tide had to be low and the wind littered with logs. He selected the least to $35 an ounce. Old placer diggings from blowing from the only direction possible hopeless of these and dove at it. I thought 1898 and a few years later were being re for a safe take-off. Matthews wanted to that would be the end ofme, aswell as Barr worked profitably. There was no unem use Barr as this was the only way he could and his ancient aircraft. Somehow he made ployment and no relief payments. Eco hope to recover a lot of money that Barr it, the wheels sinking into the sand and the nomically it was unique in the province. I owed him. During the next two days and plane almost vertical, missing by a hair’s made one of my law firm’s frequent trips after one abortive effort by Barr, Matthews breadth various logs, finally coming to there in the fall of 1936. I acted for a gave up and we were flown to Atlin by the rest, horizontal by now, a few inches from litigious old man named Isaac Matthews American pilot who had flown Nash and the end of the sand bar. who had staked a fractional claim on me to Juneau. The first thing Barr said was that he Spruce Creek, on ground which he was During the next few days Nash was had often wondered if he could make a sure was open, between claims of a sub busy surveying at Spruce Creek and I safe landing on this sand bar. Then he stantial companywhich was then operating drove Matthews’ car to the Government climbed out carrying a rifle, which didn’t a steam shovel on Spruce Creek. Their Agent’s office where I searched old min reassure me.! thought the safest thing was claims were appropriately named the ing records. We seemed to be establishing to follow him and was relieved to learn Poker, Joker and Croaker and the steam what we had come for but Nash needed that the rifle was to be used for nothing shovel was rapidlyapproaching Matthews’ another day or two, so it was agreed that I homicidal but to be fired three times in fraction, which the company claimed was should return to Prince Rupert as quickly the air at short intervals as a distress signal. part ofthe Croaker. Matthews wanted me as possible and Nash would telegraph me We were at the junction of the Tulsequah to engage a surveyor and bring him with the remaining information I required to and Taku Rivers; and I could imagine no me to Spruce Creek. Time was of the get an injunction against the steam-shovel place more remote from any vestige of essence. As there were no aircraft based in people from digging through Matthews’ civilization. It was pouring with rain. I Prince Rupert, I engaged a pilot from fraction. was most unsuitably clothed for the oc

2 B.C. Historical News - Fall 1993 casion and had with me only a black valise about this later. containing such items as I had thought The Indian became increasingly un . suitable for the trip. friendly but continued down the river. As Barr’s distress signal had had no Soon a pontoon plane appeared out ofthe Canadian Historical visible or other response, he decided he fog, flying low over the river. I stood up, would strip and swim to the other side of waved frantically and gave the hitchhik Association the Tulsequah where he said a trail led to er’s traditional sign. The plane kept on Certificates of Merit a trading post. He dove into the river but, until out of sight but to my relief it re not to my surprise, leapt out within a emerged from the fog flying in our di for second or two. rection, landed near us on the river and I Regional History We were in the process of making a was able to clamber aboard. I waved good fire when an Indian suddenly appeared bye to the Indian and decided the $5 I had through the woods on the other side ofthe given him was adequate compensation for British Columbia - Yukon river. Just as abruptly he disappeared but the short ride from the weather station. soon reappeared in a rowboat and ges The pilot told me that it was my black The Regional History Committee of the tured us to get in. Across the river he valise in the centre of the boat that finally Canadian Historical Association in found a trail and led us to the trading post convinced him I was in distress. We arrived vites nominations for its “Certificate of Barr had mentioned, which was on the in Juneau without further mishap. Iwent Merit” awards. Two awards are given bank of the Taku River. to an hotel, got my clothes dried, had a annually for each of five Canadian There we had a meal and met a man meal and a good sleep and was flown to regions, including British Columbia named Nelson, a Canadian Customs of Prince Rupert where I was able to pay all and the Yukon: (1) an award for pub ficer whom I had previously met in Prince my debts. Incidentally, the Mary Joyce lications and videos that make a sig Rupert. He said my only chance ofgetting expedition would have been fruitless as nificant contribution to regional his to Juneau was to go down river a few miles shewas inJuneau,delayed bybadweather. tory and that where there was a weather station on the As for Barr, I later learned that he had will serve as a model for U.S. side of the border which was in used only half of my $20 for gasoline. By others; and (2) an award to individuals contactwithJuneau by radio. He then left the time he started to look for a sand bar for work over a lifetime or to organ iza us to look for another Indian who had an he had insufficient fuel to fly back toAtlin tions for contributions over an ex open boat with an outboard engine. I was and couldn’t risk going on to Juneau tended period of time. running out of money, and of course Barr because of low clouds and fog. He was Nominations accompanied by as much couldn’t help me. When Nelson came right that he could soon leave the sand bar supporting documentation as possible back with the Indian I made arrangements as snow came to his rescue. Later I heard should be sent no laterthan 15 Decem with him, which I could just afford, and that his finances must have improved as ber 1993 to Dr. John Douglas Beishaw, departed down river in his boat. All went he had married the attractive Miss Sand. well until we reached the weather station The Sand-Barr nuptials seemed a fitting Departmentof Philosophy, History and and I was told that this was the one day of end to this episode. Politics, University College of the the week when radio contact with Juneau When I got to Prince Rupert I lost no Cariboo, Kamloops, B.C. V2C 5N3 was not possible. My only option, I was time and with the help of Nash’s final (Fax: 604-371-5510). told, was to go several more miles down report I was able to obtain a temporary The stream where there was a lodge operated injunction against the steam-shovel peo 1993 awards were presented to: by a young woman named Mary Joyce, pie who had not quite reached Matthews’ who had a fast motor boat which she used fraction. They stopped work for the sea 1) James R. Gibson, Otter Skins, to go to and from Juneau. son as they might have done anyway as Boston Ships, and China goods: With the greatest reluctance and my Spruce Creek was beginning to freeze. The Maritime Fur Trade of the promise to pay him lavishly if he would The case never came to trial. Instead the Northwest Coast, 1748-1841 take me to Maryjoyce’s lodge, the Indian defendants bypassed the disputed fraction, (Montreal: McGill-Queen’s, started off with me and my valise in his leaving it to Matthews’ possession. 1992) boat. It took my remaining $5 even to get Whether or not he ever recovered any gold him started. How I would fulfill my from it I do not know. The last I heard of 2) Scott Mcintyre, Publisher promise to him was in the lap ofthe gods. the matter was that Matthews had died. Before leaving Barr at the trading post (Douglas & Mcintyre, was Vancouver). I surprised to find him so unconcerned Judge Harvey of Prince Rupert is one of a at his own predicament. He said it was family ofIawyers. Hisfather was one ofthepioneer sure to snow in a few days and that he lawyers at Fort Steele and Cran brook. His son is a . would replace his wheels with skis. More Q.C. in Vancouver.

3 B.C. Historical News - Fall 1993 Pemberton Pioneer

by Anita Ronayne McWilliams

Joseph Michael Ronayne was born on didn’t begin yet. I suppose 99 out April 1, 1875, the second youngest of the of every hundred will come back seven children of John and Bridget without a cent. Fitzgerald Ronayne, of the farm It was a pity we hadn’t the money Donickmore, near Midleton, County to go last spring before the boom Cork, Ireland. His father died when he began. We might have been rich was quite young. All Ireland was a prov now. However, there is a chance ince ofGreat Britain in those days, and the yet. Ronayne farm was owned by an English Every store in town is selling absentee landlord. It was a struggle to pay Klondyke outfits now & it is the the annual rent. In order to get firewood, same in all the cities along the coast. they had to go out under cover ofdarkness Some people think there will be to gather it on their own place. There was more money spent in going there little future for young Irish men, as they than will ever come out of it. It is could not own land. very cold up there in winter. We are At the age of 18, Joe emigrated with taking a leather coat, each lined his brotherJack to the New World, landing with sheepskin with the wool on, a in New York. He worked for a time on suit of thick woollen clothes called dairy farms in New Jersey, rising at 3 a.m. mackinaws, a shirt ofthe same stuff, to milk the cows. He contracted malaria & two suits of woollen under here, but I do not think he suffered from clothes. Jack is taking a sheepskin it in Pemberton. The brothers moved on six dogs and a horse. In one of his rare cap & I a cap made of down with to Montreal, whence they took the long letters home, Joe says: cloth on the outside, Indian train journey across Canada to Vancouver. Vancouver moccassins, sleeping bags, heavy They were on the train for fifteen days, January31 blankets, and a lot of other things. eight ofthose snowed in somewhere in the Dear Mama, I don’t think we’ll freeze for want Rocky Mountains. They spent some time We are going to start for of clothes anyway. in Seattle, splitting shakes, but by 1897 Kiondyke the day after tomorrow. For food we got flour, bacon, wereworkingon farms in the Fraserdeita, We bought a lot of warm clothing dried beef, beans, butter, lard, dried first at Ladner and later on Lulu Island. It and one year’s provision, axes, picks fruit, cocoa, tea, sugar & soon. We was hard work with long hours, seeding and shovels & a whole lot of stuff. are also taking a little box of medi and harvesting, rounding up cows from It costs more money than we cines sold especially for Kiondikers. pastures, milking, churning, feeding calves thought to go up there with a good We bought a rifle & a shotgun too. and pigs. They got about five-and-a-half outfit. We are taking one horse and There is lots ofgame in some places hours ofsleep a night, apparently with no six dogs to pull the stuff in sleighs. up there. days off They were in demand as haying Some people say dogs are no good We may not be able to send a hands and worked so hard that they lost and others say horses are not much letter for some time after this, but weight. Joe, who weighed 210 pounds good, so we have decided to buy we will write whenever we can. We when they started the summer’s work, both. were glad to hear that Teresa is went down to 180 pounds. We got that 20 Cornelia sent going to be married next summer. Gold fever was burning in the hearts and were very glad that you did not I suppose the whole family will be and minds of everyone by this time, and send more because we know you married before we get back home the brothers, having decided that they can’t afford it. There are thousands again. would never make their fortunes working of people going to Klondyke every Goodbye to all as farmhands, set out for the Klondike in week now & they say the big rush Joe Ronayne January 1898, taking a year’s provisions,

4 B.C. Historical News - Fall 1993 They sailed from Vancouver to good. There is a great deal of luck Wrangell, on theAlaskan panhandle, made in this business, a fellow just drops their way by the so—called all-Canadian on to a good claim by chance. route up the Stikine River and into the We have been working for wages watershed ofthe Yukon River, and thence this last month or so, we were to get to Dawson City. Details of the journey five dollars a day providing it came are, unfortunately, lacking, but we know out ofthe ground but the claim did that they arrived in Dawson City and got not pay so we had to quit. We got work as labourers, shovelling muck in the 50 dollars each out of it, and the creeks for those who had claims. rest is coming to us. This Atlin Jack apparently left Dawson for the country does not amount to much, gold strike in Atlin which also happened the best claims in it do not pay in 1898, butwas never as widely publicized much more than good wages. or romanticized as the Klondike rush. In I think we will go to work again a way, this is surprising, because Atlin, in a day or two. Jack got a nice letter situated in the extreme northwest corner from Mrs. Terry lately. She seems ofBritish Columbia, was every bit as hard to think we go through some terri to reach, and at the height of the rush, ble hardships and run awful risks supported a population of about 10,000. out here. We have a strong notion It is also one of the most beautiful places of going home when we leave this on earth. place in three or four months from Jack sent for Joe to join him, and in now, but whether we can raise the the following fragment of an undated money or not is doubtful. Jack will letter written to his mother, Joe describes be able to tell some great yarns nor how far it was. There is no doubt that • conditions in DawsOn, and with consider when he goes home, bear stories Joe was a strong man in his youth. Perhaps able understatement, mentions his epic and so forth. Of course, you can it was feats such as this which strained his journey on foot from Dawson to Atlin in believe as much as you like ofthem. heart and led to trouble later on. late winter: If we don’t go home, I will try to During this time, they managed at write a little oftener. I have been least one trip home, almost walking on top of to Ireland, and spent depending on Jack to do the writ winters each other in the streets of Dawson some in North Vancouver, where ing, he writes such a good letter and their last summer when we got down sister Teresa Miller now lived with describes things so fine. her husband and there. Some would come in and family (Vivien, Sandy • I must now say good bye dear and Gerald stop a few days to have a look Ross). They were looking for Mamma with love to all at home farm around the creeks, then get dis land, and heard that there was noth Joe Ronayne ing gusted, sell their outfits cheap and closer than in the Pemberton Valley, where land speculators had not yet grabbed float down the river to St. Michaels. The brothers remained around Atlin up everything. In 1905 they were Some other fellows and I did some for six years and were later joined by their still in Atlin, Jack filing four claims on McKee work down there last winter, but older brother Edmond. Joe was not a Creek, but by 1907 they were farming we found nothing aftersinkingsev partner in theAtlin claims, but sometimes in Pemberton. In 1906 they had bought eral holes twentyseven feet through worked for wages at $7 a day. He spent a three adjoining parcels, paying the frozen ground. We were to get good deal of his time hunting to provide $12.50 an acre, and for a time operated 50 percent of what gold we took the camp with meat, especially ptarmigan as a three- way partnership (Edmond,Jack and Joe), out. I started up the river from and duck in great numbers, as bag limits but later the Joe Ronaynes withdrew their Dawson on the 15 March with a were unknown then. Joe and another man 140 acres from the partnership. tent, blankets, a little grub etc. be were camped somewhere between Tel Clearing was done a little at a time hind me on a sled to go to Atlin. egraph Creek and Wrangell near a glacier, with saw, axe and blasting powder. The [Note: He would have been travel cutting wood for sale at $8 a cord, when land was broken with a plough and ling on the frozen Yukon River.l It Jack came upon them during a trip to the grubhoe, a job difficult enough in itself, took me 22 days to get here, 600 Outside. Jack tells of this meeting in a but complicated by clouds of mosquitoes miles. I found Jack about an hour letter dated merely April 9th. He says Joe which swarmed up from the damp grass after reaching Atlin and we have pulled a load of wood to Telegraph for and every pond and seepage pool. been together since. Jack did a lot another man for four dollars a day and In 1907, as the brothers with ofprospecting around this country board, pulling 530 pounds. Unfortunately coped various animal diseases new to them’,Joe but he found nothing that was any the letter does not say how long it took,

5 B.C. Historical News - Fall 1993 got distemper from the horses and “had stood between all the pioneers and their a flaring temper, as when dealing with a two or three very bad spells.” The swelling homelands. IfJoe had not been married balky animal. He had great natural dig broke into his mouth under the tongue with a family, he would probably have nity, and earned the respect of all who twice and Edmond lanced it from under gone back to Ireland to help in the strug knew him. He saw through sham and the jaw and let the pus out on the outside. gle for independence during the Troubled pretension and had no patience with ei The infection did not heal quickly and the Times of the early 20s. ther. Gum chewing, cigarette smoking, cut had to be opened more than once. His Alifelong socialist,Joe’s political views drinking, women’s high heels, were all recovery in the end must have been com were shaped by the English landlord sys objects ofhis scorn. He could see no sense plete, as I do not remember any mention tem in Ireland, and by his observations of in any ofthem, though no one could have of this incident by my parents. the treatment ofworking and poor people called him a bigot. He didn’t like riding in It was at the Miller home in Lynn by those in power. Crossing the ocean in motor cars and preferred to walk whenever Valley thatJoe met Annie van Snellenberg. steerage class, he saw that the shipboard possible. In spite of this, he agreed with They were married on June 1, 1911, and crew treated steerage passengers with con Annie that with sons approaching man lived in a little house on what is now a tempt, while at the same time fawning hood, a car should be purchased, and in short street in Lynn Valley called Ronayne over those who could afford to tip them. 1932 a second-hand 1928 Ford Model A Road. He was 36, she, 26. Their first He believed in the dignity and worth of arrived at the farm. He had no interest in daughter, Margaret Bridget, was born working people. learning to drive it. there. Joe seems to have spent his time in Although he was a well-read man, his He loved the mountains and yearly North Vancouver hunting for deer to memories ofschooling with the Christian climbed to Tenquille Lake or Owl Lake supply the logging camps which at that Brothers in Ireland were unpleasant and for a few days’ fishing, often with his time operated on the north shore. When his time at school was short. The Brothers brothers. Until his sons were old enough Margaret was nine months old, they set were cruel and the food was poor. Lessons to hunt, he provided venison for the fam out for the farm at Pemberton, travelling were literally “pounded in” to the hapless ily table in season. via Lytton, Lillooet, Seton Portage and students. The pounding was effective, In his later years, he began to have D’Arcy2. Four more children were born though, because he could recite not only trouble with his heart. I remember in the to the couple as they developed what verse after verse from Walter Scott’s Lay of 1930s that he was in bed after a heart became a very fine farm— Kathleen Mary, the Last Minstrel, but also whole pages of attack, and the relatives came visiting. 1915; Ronald Joseph, 1917; Clifford the text ofthe geography book. Reused to Sometimes he would feel palpitations, Walter, 1919; and AnitaJosepha, 1923. recite weather signs in verse, which he had which would stop when he did a little During thirty years of farming in learned as a child: “When toads come work around the yard. In June of 1943 he Pemberton Meadows, the events of his- hopping on the green, rainy weather soon entered Vancouver General Hospital for will be seen,” prostate surgery. Penicillin at that time though he didn’t was unavailable except for military use, place a great deal indeed, was unknown, and septicaemia of store in them. developed. With his weakened heart, he I remember his was unable to fight off the infection, and saying to me, he died in an oxygen tent, at the age of68. with a twinkle in It seemed an unsuitable death for one his blue eyes, whose life had been spent on the land and “When dogs in the mountains. He lies buried on the bark at night, it farm. will either rain or it won’t.” The writer is the editor ofa small magazine, He was tall Wordsmith, produced in Hudson ‘c Hope. She was

— over six feet advised to send this biography to the B.C. His torical News by a subscriber who lives on Bowen — and hand some, with blue island, herformer teacher Mrs. M. Fougberg. with Margaret, Kathleen Joseph andAnnie Ronayne G/ifjbrd (in arms), and eyes and a fine FOOThOTES Ronald (Anita notyet born), Pemberton, circa 1921. 1. See Per, berto,, book. Roman nose, 2. S,e biography of Annie Ronayne and pp. 90—91 beneath which 194—5 of Pc,, b,,t,, book. tory precluded Joe’s ever returning to his drooped a splendid red moustache. He BIBLIOGRAPHY birthplace. The Great War, the struggle to was a quiet man, abstemious in his habits John Ronayne, Sr. Letter, Home 189t5 — 1947 Joteph Miohoel Ronayn, Let,,,, Home. 1898 & 1899 () develop the farm during the 20s, the De and kindly, who loved his family. He had Decker, Frances, Margarer Fougberg, and Mary Ronayne. Porn beret,. The HototyofaSettle meet. (Pembeeson: Pember,onWornen’sInsusu,e, pression of the 30s, and World War II, a wonderful sense ofhumour, and at times 1977.)

6 B.C. Historical News - Fall 1993 Early Travelling in the

Columbia — Kootenay Valley

by R. C. Harris

GEOGRAPHICAL SETTING which may have formerly flowed south. called it.Ref01 The Columbia-Kootenayvalley is part Thus, the broad Columbia valley is filled Governor George Simpson came of the 350-mile Rocky Mountain Trench with swamps, sand bars and shifting south through the valley in 1841, on his running NNW-SSE, parallel to British channels. These kept the main trail to the westward trip around the world.1°2 Columbia’s eastern boundary. east bank, despite such occasional hazards Four years later, two British army The natural travel route in the valley as cliffs. officers, Warre and Vavasour, travelling is along its east side; the section passing TRAVELS BY EARLY INHABITANTS almost incognito, recorded the next ex ColumbiaLakewas sometimes called “The The upper Columbia and Kootenay pedition past the Columbia lakes. (Cap 13 Spirit Trail.” Several pictographs valleys were used by the natives for tain) H.J. Warre left us a recognisable above the trail testify to its long use. On thousands of years in their endless search lithographed hand-coloured landscape, this side, the trail remains fairly well for food. Salmon came, in season, to the “Source of the Columbia River, July 30, protected Ref 04 from development by the to “Salmon Beds” below the outlet of the 1845.” pography, which diverted the waggon lower Columbia Lake (Windermere).1°9 In the same year, Reverend Father road, the Kootenay Central Railway, and Here the immense numbers of spawning Pierre Jean DeSmet, SJ, also passed the Highway 93/95 to the west side of the salmon pushed up ridges of gravel high Columbia lakes on the east side, leaving a lake. As late as 1954, the B.C. Minister of enough to interfere with steamboat decription and an interesting oblique map, Mines was reporting “ ... an excellent navigation. in French, of the sources of Columbia Indian trail follows the east side of Co There were mountain sheep and an River, namely the two Columbia lakes lumbia Lake.” telope on the surrounding hills, but for and the headwaters of Kootenay River, as Armstrong Bay, an unexpected arm buffalo meat and sinew, the Kootenay seen from the west. of Columbia Lake jutting into its east Indians made an annual hunting trip to Coming from the south, he shows the bank, forces the trail onto the Rocky the Buffalo Plains east of the Rockies via crossing of Kootenay River, and from it a Mountain side, and there are more cliffs the upper Kootenay River and Kananaskis portage of two-and-a-half miles to the to be surmounted above the south end of Pass. This continued until the buffalo first Columbia Lake. The trail continues the lake. These encumbrances were noted were exterminated by others. Then the north on the right (east) side of this lake, by travellers George Simpson in 1841 and Kootenay Indians began herding cattle by passing “Fontaine chaud,” which is now 02,06 James Hector in 1859.’- the Columbia lakes. Fairmont Hot Springs. Geologists believe that the two Co— Within historic times the valley at Halfway along second Columbia Lake lumbia lakes flowed south until dammed tracted a small band of Shuswap Indians (Windermere), he passed Baptiste by the massive delta ofthe upper Kootenay under their chiefKinbasket. They migrated Morigeau’s camp, where he shows “My River arriving from the northeast. Now from the west and settled, against some Tent.” On “8 Sept 1845,” about eight the Kootenay River bed is raised ten or opposition from the resident Kootenays, miles below the second lake, he erected a fifteen feet above the head of Columbia on the east side of the Salmon Beds (op “Cross of the Nativity” on a knoll, to Lake as it passes on its way south. Thus, posite Wilmer), where their descendants record his visit, then turned eastward up a there is still seepage north to Columbia remain today, but without the salmon. major valley, presumably Sinclair Creek. Lake through the loose gravels. This could The annual flow of salmon stopped with Dutch Creek is shown as “Riv. du be deemed the true source of the Colum construction of the Grand Coulee Dam Côté,” a massive flow from the west. Toby bia River. on the Columbia River, 1935 to 1940. Creek is “Riv. àThompson,” since DeSmet At its north end, Columbia Lake is was aware that David Thompson had dammed by the delta of Dutch Creek. EUROPEAN EXPLORATIONS AND TRAVELS built Kootenae House at its inouth.-°3 The lower Columbia Lake (Windermere) The fur trade brought the first re The next explorations were by the is similarly retained by the delta of Toby corded European contact when David British Palliser Expedition. 06 John Creek. Thompson of the North West Company Palliser first saw the Columbia lakes on The fall from Columbia Lake to settled briefly near the mouth of Toby August 27, 1858, when he came down Golden is very slight, as befits a river Creek in 1806; at Kootenae House, as he Palliser River from the continental divide,

7 B.C. Historical News - Fall 1993

8

News 1993 Fall Historical B.C. -

stands.

now

Golden this

Early reached we the morning at pre-empted, sore being its very

from

the

River,

Kicking

where Horse

and felt of they Indians, the place of two side the east the lakes:

fame,

Horse

up south travelled

Trench the

This a is grazing favourite Lakes. 1859, he 02, along passed October

Kicking Doctor gist, Hector of James the of Columbia side east the on

geolo year, The Palliser’s following

heretofore wintered tle been have

the two lakes,

at the

of

Columbia

Trench.

of cat their The part major horses.

othe to

source way them all the saw

Rocky and the up far Mountain down see

500 of and some cattle head 400

from sea. afterwards We

the ascent

Lake. could upper He Columbia above

about own present at These Indians

by been long doubt, out their worn

to

feet himself

2600 find” astonished

Columbia the of lakes: side no had, which dead salmon, many

from

country; he Mount

“was Sabine

east the on cattle wintering successfully found good a the we banks Along

the of

views He

for

peaks climbed several

were men that white they and saw tains,

lakes:

Columbia the

to

Flats). proaching River

“Columbia

(Canal Portage”

Moun Rocky the of slopes eastern the

ap 1859, 17, Hector

was September

upper the Kootenay down continued and

on buffalo failed had that the found they

when cattle keeping began Indians the that

1883,

learn 31, we December of report

__9pwi

c

his From

investigate. to asked was

3 O(u’ lun 07

2

fond

Farwell S. Victoria, surveyorA. and reached reele. oula l”; tE4Forr

dissatisfaction Indians’ the of

Reports

%.. Cr 1 . [kootenay

%

‘Columbia Fbre,

Find\Oj the newcomers. by ignored were lation

I e.,

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Port

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FIar, -i pçI DISSATISFACTION INDIAN

effective.

o

became soon Montana, Jennings, at line

Great the service Northern to riverboat

1OHr A

Creek. and Lde. Horse River Wild

Kootenay

A

7010

Foirmont

Lake.

D MT MET

- to rails, with laid portages eventually IUer Columbia Lake

Lk

Kootnai

Second

.‘l

short two connected, via This lakes.

c LAKE 0LUMBl

rmen2ncJ B 0

the to headwater service Columbia the up

0

a steamboat established Golden, at service :

Cc railway the surveyors quit who CPR the -

)

p.

(Armsrro L4S

of one

and Armstrong, Frank Golden, to -S

Ck

Steele Fort from a to road waggon verted

C. CREE. 1

0

con gradually was pack trail The

P /

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Trail.” to Horse Horse Wild

AIRMONT

l-40T

Kicking route named “The the LRovnd era this R. Lake. on Columbia

\°

Lok Adelo

navatori

of

maps called

Golden. bia, Some

now Lolce head ft1vci ori1nl

Colum on

River the Horse the of Kicking

(0

SLOUGH TJE/ h mouth the at past Cache” “The operating

Pacific Railwaystarted Canadian the when

-U

began north the trains Pack from

south.

from trails the old the

LAKE IMDERMER

.‘

over being IR established routes train pack

ba

Lke\

Lower z ,les 4- 3 I 0

e

i—’

I—. ‘— to led 1864, rush, which in gold

starting

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placer Creek the Horse by

Wild turbed

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in

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NEW

GOLD MINING PLACER %2

04

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Cdumba

rihh MERE5.R C erable distance.

Disrnicr Kooreriay

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LAKES COLUMBIA

ALM°

of side The a opposite precipice

...

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wind

TWO THE

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85

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iver its ascend above feet about 400

•

RmoinlinJ

N IR 1 NL AL THE ORIGI

“ Columb0 its to us side along eastern required

pass Lake, upper and to Columbia _____— / -

Source ofthe Columbia River, July30, 1845. This painting was done by Captain Fif Warre on his travels. This reprintfound in Artists Overland catalogue at the Burnaby Art Galleiy.

occupied and fenced in by white the reclamation schemes, which required Nest [rail] road settlers ... On the 9th July last large government concessions and subsi PRESENT TRANSPORTATION FA PP [18831, Armstrong and D dies, were dropped. CILITIES Belihouse recorded [pre-empted] COMMUNICATIONS IN THE DIS Steamboat service was superseded by 320 acres and 80 acres respectively TRICT (1889)Ref09 10,11 the more reliable railway forecast in 1889. along the eastern shore of the Up Gold Commissioner Cummins re The British Columbia Southern section per Lake. These last two records the ported to the Minister of Mines on the of the railway (Crowsnest to Kootenay Indians look on with particular dis East Kootenay Mining District as follows: Landing on Kootenay Lake) was opened favour, as they are located on their The Columbia and Kootenay in October 1898. The Kootenay Central long-used and favourite cattle run valleys are exceptionally favoured Railway was completed (Golden to by their topography for transporta Colvalli, four miles west of Jaffray) in While leading us along this trail, tion purposes. The present com 1914. This line was upgraded in the I 960s Naomi Miller showed several us groups of to carry coal north in 100-car trains to ... the munication is ... by the decayed logs with their cut ends still Kootenay mail line ofsteamers main line at Golden, whence it is carried ognisable. They were likely remnants of ply ing from Golden Station, on the to Vancouver for export. F rank Armstrong’s unwelcome fences, Canadian Pacific Railway, south Highway traffic passed Columbia blocking the trail at the boundaries of his wards for 120 miles to the Colum Lake on the west side. The road leaves the District Lot 48 (see map). It is said that bia lakes: thence the government east side of the valley near Fairmont Hot some Indians called him “Chief waggon road carries the traffic to Springs and crosses the Columbia River Strongarm,” rather than Armstrong. Fort Steele and Cranbrook in the and Dutch Creek, which the old trail PROMOTERS, DEVELOPERS AND southern part of the district. This avoided. LANDRECLAMATION,c.1888ifsOs,la, 14 road has been likewise extended There is an airstrip at each end of With the new transcontinental rail northward from the lakes down the Columbia Lake. ways operating to the north and south Columbia valley to within 25 miles giving better access to the country, pro of Golden R. C. Harris is a retired engineer who has moters hoped to reshape the land to their researchedandhikedagreat many historic ti’ails in As the mines develop, a trunk our province. He is a/so very active in needs. Reclamation of the liars at the river the B.C line of railway will be constructed Naturalists Federation and the Vancouver Map deltas looked attractive. A small navigable [from the CPR at Golden] up the Society. canal, with the potential of diverting the Columbia and down the Kootenay ANNOTATED SOURCES upper Kootenay River to the Columbia, Beforewalkingover sheground. a may be helpful to read someof the records River to join the projected Crow’s giving the setting of the trail: was dug by hand. Eventually, however, Ref 01 1808. David Thompson’s maps and journal give sIte earliest

9 B.C. Historical News - Fall 1993 \-N.-N.. N S ss N N N .s , Xni.veltr Carteis. , ‘5”” . -‘ ØtPOi.1iFnt5/” ‘., SOURCES 0(1 TCIIJTE COLOR? Bit,

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‘p9 ASI’EtT IWS 3IONTAGNES it LEUSES. SOt]WES UK LA (‘OLOM1iIE. . I 4.’ Os K : / ‘ cxtrar - ii r (\ 9artjCY r r’”’’ “ Jt ? -.“-.) --f4:Y-*- •••‘tb_ zA% . LL’*/ / ,1,q /...j i.xr ::u ? tFti:

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Map drawn by Father De Smet to record his mission travels west ofthe Rockies. Courtesy UBC Special Collectiona lB P880 S6314 p. 80.

accounts of sravel by the Columbss lakes. Thompson’s bess map was not Reuses (aplored] undersheCommandofCopsnJohn Palliser, 1859—1860. pssblishml unrsl 1843. Besween sbeuppeelakeand Koosenay Rsver, heshows James Hector, 1860,” shows, bus does nos name, she two Columbia lakes, in - Ref 14 1987. “S’he Upper Koosenay River Canal.” Mabel B. Jordan, “Cony 2 miles.” fact thedesail is muchinferior so his 1859 map.Arsheheadoftheupperlake, Canadian West Magazine, No. 8, Summer 1987. a Kootenay Indian camp is shown. Thecamp oftheShuswop Indians, where Ref 02 1847. Narrative ofa Journey Round the World(1841), p. 128. Morsgmu was livsng, is shown norsheass of she lower lake. The trail passes Ref 15 1989. The Legacy ofFairmont Hot Springs. Janet Wilder. “The Simpson and retinue (sossthbounc5 camped at the foot of the second along she eats side of bosh lakes. resort hsstory; plans for she future,” p. 125, maps, ill. Koosonass (Columbia) Lake. Early neat moming, he was taken so see she three (Faitmont) hot sprsngs. Then, resuming his joumey, “our rouse lay as Ref 07 1883. AS. Fanvell’s “Report on the Koosenay Indians” so the ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS first along she face of a steep hill whsch rose abruptly from the shores of she provincial govemment on she land grserances of she Koosenay Indians. In lake...” addition so rho less of their traditional lands, redamasion of large arms of TIse writer thanks Naomi and Peter Miller,Art Taplin and Ken Faveholds for seasonally flooded land was being proposed, together wish she (diversion! sheir genial assistance in compiling data on she Columbia lakes, and in Ref 03 1846. In Mioionc ck l’Oregon, 1845— 46. Pssher R.P. DeSmet, navigosionol) canal besween Kootenay Rsver and she uppper Columbia Lake aesanging hikes along she ancient sssil and as Wild Horse. SJ. (B.C Sec ional Papers, 1884, pp. 325—327). The senoe of his report is still simely. Ref 04 1848. Sketches inNerthAsssericoaesdthe Oregon Territory. (Caps) Hj. Wane. “Source of she Columbin Rivet, July 30, 1845.” Ref 08 1888. The Kootenay Valleys and the Kootersay Dissricts, British ColumbiseWithMaps,p. 23.TheKootennySyndicase,London,Englond.An Ref 05 1859. Mop of”The Provinces of Brisish Colssmbis, &Vancou example of land development and land sales pmmosion, 1882 to 1890. err Island... “John Acrowsmssh, June 1,1859. Thss is assspersor mop,”

conssmcted ns Great Labour ... ,“ and from a notice under the title, Ref 09 1889. Minister ofMines Reporis, B. C; especially p. 372. Aesowsmishinsendedso esert his copyrighs. However, hewas likely indebted soothes map makers, suchas DovidThompson, fos his details. He shows the Ref 10 1902. For a phosograph of n miners’ path srnin leaving she srail along she russ tide of she Columbia-Koosenay valley passing she two Salmon Beds for the Delphine Mine, seethe B. C Minister ofMines Annssal headwater lakes. The upper lake is Otter Lake, the lower is Salmon Lake. In Reportfisr 1898, p. 1035. season, salmon reached she Salmon Beds here from the sea, spawned, and died in immense numbers. There is s three-mile portage (now Canal Plots) Ref II 1952. “Steamboat Days on the Upper Columbia and Upper from the upper lake so “Koosanie, Flasbow or McGillivray River.” To she Koosenay.” BCHQ, Vol. XVI, Nos. I &2. south, she1 seas forks as whos became she placer mining setslemens of Wild Horse, she nght fork going along the Grand Qurite (Moyie) River and Lake Ref 12 1956. “The Koosenay Reclamation and Colonicasson Scheme so she lower Columbia River. The left fork follows the left bank of Koosenay and WilliamAdoiph Baillie-Grohman.” Mabel B. Jordan. BCHQ,Vol. XX, River, passing sheough she Tobacco Plains near the US border. Not. 3 &4.

Ref 06 1857 to 1860. British Parliamentary Papers, reprinted by Irish Ref 13 1985, 1987. The Kooeenay Advertiser far Sepsnwber 30 and University Press (IUP). Pnlliser’s essplomtsons 0f British Noesh Asnersea October 07, 1985, and May 25, 1987, gives background on she Kootmay estended from 1857 to 1860. His official papers, sllustrased wish mapt Indians and sheircultme. The 1987 arsicleis a reprint of a 1912 nniclewish redrawn byJohnAtrowsmith, will be foundin IUP Reprins,Vols. 22 and24. an early account of a trip over “The SpiritTrail,” the “bridle path” along she eats side of Columbia Lake. Arrowtmith’s 1860 map, “Saskatchewan River and Reeky Mountains.

10 B.C. Historical News “ Fall 1993 Canon Stanley Smith Missions to Seamen

by Royj V Pallant

It is near enough to Christmas to tell a Christmas story, espe cially since it is about a man who promotes an atmosphere befitting Christmas all year round. Anyone who has had the privilege and pleasure of meeting Canon Stanley Smith or listened to his clever, humorous, ar ticulate and memorable sermons will agree. At this time, Canon Smith is a busy retired Anglican clergyman; but before his retirement, his ability to serve God and FlyingAngel seamen’s club at5O Dunlevy Avenue North on Vancouver’s commercial waterfront. Photo courtesy of the Seamens His people with intelli Mission. gent kindness, good will and a great sense of hu mour was applied in his capacity as a ing to the Missions to Seamen on the pany after RearAdmiral Hon. G.E. Hast chaplain to Missions to Seamen. He was 125th anniversary of the foundation of ings, commander of the Royal Navy base an Anglican priest who sometimes partied the society in London, England. Number at Esquimalt. as often as seven nights a week, all in the 50, North Dunlevy, was originally the In 1955 the Vancouver Harbour line of duty. His job was to provide a office building of Hastings Mill. In 1864 Commission purchased the remaining 40 home-like atmosphere at the Vancouver the building was near the water’s edge. To acres ofland with 250 feet ofwater frontage headquarters and entertain hundreds of the northeast of it, on the other side of for $2,450,000 and the entire area was lonely and homesick seamen who passed Burrard Inlet, was Moodyville with its known as Hastings Mill. The land west of through the doors of FlyingAngel House, sawmill. To the west, towards the prom the mill was surveyed as the townsitc of 50 North Dunlevy, Vancouver. ontory partially guarding Burrard Inlet, Granville in 1870, popularly known as The brilliant sea-blue house built in was the hut of The Three Greenhorns, Gas Town and the nucleus of the future 1906 remains today, a landmark on the with their small coal and brick clay claim, city of Vancouver. waterfront and a beacon to sailors who while to the east was asmall summer resort In 1873 the first public schooi was know the work Missions perform around called New Brighton, used mainly by peo opened on Hastings Mill property and the the world. ple from New Westminster. Granville Post Office was opened in Hast When the National Harbours Board On November30, 1865, the English- ings Mill Store. In June 1886, fire swept vacated the premises early in 1973 there promoted British Columbia and Vancou through Vancouver, incorporated inApril was a resistance to the historic building ver Island Spar, Lumber and Sawmill of that year, and although the mill was being torn down or renovated inappro Company received a land grant of 243 saved, many of the houses and outbuild priately for commercial use. So the Mis acres for about $250, on which they were ings were lost. sion was offered the house, paying a nomi to build a sawmill. The mill started pro Tn 1889 the mill was sold and the new nal rent on a 10-year lease. duction in 1867, however in 1870 it was owners merged with the Royal City Plan In September 1981 the National bought by aSan Francisco firm for $20,000 ing Mills Company. The new firm was Harbours Board made a gift of the build- and renamed the Hastings Sawmill Corn- called B.C. Mills and Trading Co. Ltd.

11 B.C. Historical News - Fall 1993 In 1900 the firm decided to build Hebrew, but these were ofno use in trying semi-fabricated homes, schools, and to communicate with the sailors of many churches which were shipped as far as nations he met at that time. (He tried out Winnipeg. As sampies, the company built his Greek a couple of times but it was two offices, the first on Carrall Street for Biblical Greek, which caused much the office oftheir False Creek plant, and in amusement.) 1906 the building at 50 North Dunlevy One of the most profitable and in was completed. These showpieces con teresting fund raisers for the Vancouver tained panelling with different types of Mission came from Canon Smith’s tre British Columbia wood: hemlock, red mendous talent for embroidery, which he cedar, balsam, etc., regrettably all painted learned years ago in a naval hospital while over in the 1 920s. The basement of the recovering from an ear operation. A nurse building contains an appropriate foun dropped materials into his hands and said, dation with beams 47 feet long. “Try that!” So he did, and his North In December each year, Canon This portrait of Canon Stanley Smith Vancouver apartment wails and furniture Smith’s tiny office in this building was was taken by Campbell Studios, c. 1960. and those of his daughter bear witness to piled high with shoe boxes filled with his prolific artistry, including his por small gifts, writing materials, toiletries various parts of the world. trayal of The Last Supper. and candy. Donated and packed by vari Canon Smith said the aim and object But the story goes that when he first ous churches and charitable organizations, of the Missions is to minister to seafarers took over the Vancouver Mission he re the boxes were taken aboard ships by in anyway they can. “The Missions realize alized they did not even have a tablecloth Canon Smith to be distributed to men seamen are away from home for periods to put on the club dining room table. So who would be at sea on Christmas Day. varying from four months to two years, he lent his own cloth to the club volunteers The idea started in 1953 when there depending on their nationality and con and went out to buy a replacement. But in were often sick seamen in hospital far tract. It can be a lonely monotonous life,” so doing he became inspired with the away from home with no one to care he said. “Their wives, families and girl thought that here was the way to initiate a about them. A note went into each box friends are all at home.” church organ fund: have people inscribe asking the recipient to write a thank-you So every night there was a “starboard their names on the tablecloth, instead of note to the church or organization which watch” by young women volunteers who the customary quilt, and charge them a packed the box. Stanley said the men came to Flying Angel to provide a wel “quarter” — he liked the North American usually wrote and sometimes the packers come, entertain, or just sit and talk to the term — for having their name einbroi received wonderful letters. But, just to be lonely. dered. He commenced with 25 tucked sure, Canon Smith wrote to all the packers Canon Smith said he could not stress away in a corner, but it was a start. Next he himself too strongly how wonderful it was to have was asked to give a talk to the Gyro Club In 1973 Flying Angel House was just women doing this kind ofthing. The men at the old Georgia Hotel in Vancouver. one of 95 such clubs sponsored by the need to talk to women. They are tired of Afterwards he invited their signatures at Anglican Church around the world. At men by the time they get off the ship. 25 cents apiece. Instead they offered $50 that time Canon Smith had been in the Besides the hostesses, there were other if he would embroider their crest on the Missions to Seamen field for 36 years, and volunteers who staffed a small canteen cloth. his father had been similarly involved which sold coffee and snacks. Soon after, Canon Smith was asked before him. Canon Smith had worked in Private donations, grants and the by the Lions Club to give them a talk on the Middle East, South Africa and Eng Anglican Church kept the house operat the work of the Mission and, again when land before coming to Canada. ing. Besides the party room furnished asked, he recounted his tablecloth story to The usual term for a chaplain at that with tables made from cut-down beer raise money for an organ. This time kind ofjob was five years, but that would barrels and covered with nautical-design nothing was said and nothing happened vary. Canon Smith remained in Durban, tablecloths, there were a television room, for two or three days. Then Mr. Fairly, South Africa, from 1938 to 1945 because lounge, three or four games rooms and a president of the Lions Club, arrived with of the war. He then served in Johannes quiet office where seamen could make a four members and said, in return for burg as Regional Secretary for Southern long-distance telephone call in privacy! In embroidering the Lions’ crest on the cloth, Africafrom 1945 to 1948. By 1973 hehad the first four weeks after the Mission would he accept the donation of a new served in Vancouver for 19 years and opened at 50 North Dunlevy, 783 seamen Hammond organ? when he retired in 1975, he had completed from 17 countries signed the guest regis Canon Smith took his treasured ta 40 years in the Anglican Church ministry, ter. Canon Smith remarks that at univer blecloth to England on a lecture tour for 38 of them with Missions to Seamen in sity he had to learn Greek, Latin and the Church of England and later in visits

12 B.C. Historical News - Fall 1993 across Canada, when he donated his own cutter Eirene was built to visit seagoing ofthe first shanties on the shores ofone of time to tell churches and groups about the vessels. Services were held on board when theworid’s finest natural harbours, enough Missions to Seamen. When the tablecloth appropriate. ships were entering the First Narrows to was covered in signatures and crests, he In 1856 a preliminary meeting was warrant the establishment of a shore ha had collected no less than $17,000 for the held in London to form a national society, ven for seamen. Mission. The 8-foot by 4-foot cloth was the Missions to Seamen Afloat, At Home The first Seamen’s Institute was framed and hung on the wall ofthe North and Abroad. Two years later the original therefore established in 1900 by the Dunlevy Mission. Bristol organization united with the Lon Reverend J. Fiennes Clinton, next to St. The Missions to Seamen got its start don society under the name ofMissions to James Church on Gore Avenue. In 1904 on the west coast of England. In the Seamen. the establishment became part ofthe Mis Bristol Channel, midway between the “But there is not much use talking to sions to Seamen Society and in 1906 the coasts ofEngland and Wales, lie two lonely a man about religion when other things Reverend H. Collison arrived from Eng islets. One, Steepholm, is a bare, desolate are weighing heavily on his mind,” says land at the request of St. James Church. rock standing in bold relief against its Canon Smith. “In a way the Mission is As the port and. the young city grew in background of sea and sky; the other, performing a semi-welfare type of work. size and importance, the original build Flatholm, is conspicuous by reason of its We try to fill a gap, to alleviate the lone ings became too small and a move was lighthouse. On a summer day in 1835 a liness and separation the seamen feel be made to the West End. In 1922 a fire young clergyman on vacation was walking cause they are virtually cut off from the necessitated another move, this time to with his son along the cliffs near Clevedon opposite sex, family and friends.” 1121 West Hastings Street, then Seaton when their attention was drawn by a glint Canon Smith said his work was exactly Street. It was in this building, originally of light from a window in the lighthouse the same as that of a parish priest. But the home of Dr. Henry Bell Irvine, that on Flatholm. The boy asked his father: there was a difference in that Canon the work of the Missions was carried on “Daddy, how can those men go to church?” Smith’s parish extended virtually around for the next 34 years. In the main hail (an The young clergyman, whose name was the world. Visiting ships in Vancouver, he addition to the house constructed by local John Ashley, unable to answer his son’s received a warm welcome from all but the seamen), sailors from all over the world question, visited the two islets and found Russians at that time. “I could always found companionship, recreation and a ready welcome there. He learned that meet an old friend and make a new one,” spiritual comfort away from their home these people would greatly appreciate the he says. lands. opportunity to attend a religious service The story of the Missions to Seamen Arabs, Greeks, Indians, Armenians, and throughout the rest of his stay at in Vancouver is almost as old as Vancou Germans, men of the mercantile marine Clevedon he visited the islets regularly. ver itself Within 15 years of the building ofall colours and many faiths, enjoyed the Eventually his vacation drew to a close. picnics, dances and parties arranged by On his farewell visit he inquired about a the hard-working members of what were large fleet of lightships off the coast of then called the Harbour Light Guild and Wales, whose presence he had noticed. the Senior Light Keepers. The ranks of He learned that the fleet had been unable these two women’s auxiliaries, the first to leave the Road and had been cut off primarily a money-raising group, and the from the shore. So, before he left Clevedon, latter, composed of unmarried girls, a John Ashley went out to the light vessels group for social activities, were later aug and there received the same ready welcome mented by a third group ofyoung married which had awaited him on Steepholm and women, the Watch Ashore. Flathoim. He found that no one ever An active board ofdirectors has always visited the crews or seemed concerned played a prominent part in the affairs of about their long isolation. the Missions to Seamen in Vancouver. John Ashley was astonished. Here Among those to be found in the records were the seamen of what was the greatest areW.W. Maskell,T.W.B. London, E.W. maritime nation in the world utterly ne Dean, A.H. Reed and B.W. Farmer. glected! He determined to decline the It was in 1930, during the chaplaincy living he had been offered and to devote of the Reverend T.H. Elkington, that the his life instead to the men of the sea. In movement began for a new building. 1837 asocietywas formed called the Bristol Dropped due to the Depression, the plan Mission. In 1845 this name was changed was again revived when the will ofEdward Channel Seaman’s Mission, Canon Smith with sailors on mess duty to the Bristol aboard shz. “Only another ton to go.” Disney Farmer bequeathed the Missions with Dr. Ashley as its first chaplain. The $10,000. This formed the nucleus of the

B.C. Historical News - Fall 1993 building fund. none must.” (Peggy) Green, who donated the splendid In 1944 the land and property adja “The service was simple and short and stained glass window in St. Martins cent were offered to the society for the modern hymns were sung,” said Canon Church, North Vancouver, dedicated to price paid for it at a tax sale, $4,000. The Smith. “I called it the down-to-earth ap her parents, Captain and Mrs. Ernest purchase money was forwarded from proach to church ritual.” Phillip Green. It is also interesting to note headquarters in London and was ultimately Everything in that chapel was do that John Roger Burnes, local historian devoted to the erection ofthe chapel in the nated, including three wooden tablets on and author, was on the committee for this new building, the Stuart Knox Memorial. thewall carved byalocal sculptor, Samuel North Vancouver clubhouse. Other Light In 1952 the land for the new building Bunch. He was the man who caught the Keepers in North Vancouver were Emily was purchased from Alaska Pine for whale “Moby Doll” (following the male Simmons, Dorothy Mackenzie, Ruth $13,500 and in the following year the two “Moby Dick”) which was housed in the Dickson (now Grant), Nancy Hewitt, adjoining properties were sold by the Vancouver Aquarium. Marjorie Rice, Audrey Love, Esther Missions for $75,000. In May 1954 con The wooden tablets depict the disci Douglas and Una Warden, to mention a struction began. pies fishing after Christ was crucified, few. The cornerstone was laid by the Hon hauling in the nets full of fish after taking As shipping moved from the Japan ourable W.C. Woodward and dedicated the Lord’s advice to try a different spot Wharf area and returned further east to to the memory of Edward Disney Farmer and being united with Jesus. Lynn Terminal and Neptune Terminal, whose bequest had originally made the “The Lord looked after his follow the First Street clubhouse was closed and building fund possible. On October 3, ers,” explains Canon Smith. “Remember, replaced by a mobile clubhouse which 1954, the new building was officially he gave them a fire of coals, and fish and could be driven to the terminals. Canon opened at an impressive ceremony at which bread, not another sermon. We give the Smith, with his usual enterprise, bought a the service was conducted by the bishop, seamen football games, books and dances.” retired bus and in four months fitted it out The Right Reverend Godfrey Phillip These wooden tablets remain today with a shop, a reading room and a chapel. Gower. Headquarters of the Missions to at 50 North Dunlevy and if looked at Later a portable dance floor was added, Seamen was represented by Mr. Peter closely, the carvings will show that three allowing the floor to be laid out on the Trumper. of the disciples are wearing a navy collar, ground at the side of the bus in good So at last there was in Vancouver a a merchant seaman’s jacket and a fisher weather. Women volunteer dance part building worthy of the men served by the man’s jersey. The boat they are fishing ners were brought over on the bus from Missions to Seamen. But time passed and from is a representation ofSamuel Bunch’s Vancouver. This bus served well for some the building was purchased and demol own. two years in the early 1970s. ished in a massive city development. Operating and maintaining a Mis Canon Smith correctly predicted in So the North Dunlevy Flying Angel sions to Seamen clubhouse was not by any 1973 that with the ships spending less House was the sixth home, beginning means easy, in spite of the good intent. time in port, giving less time or facility for with St. James Church, and the fifth With the administrative difficulties at the seamen to visit the Missions to Seamen residence of the Mission. Books and time, Canon Smith can only conclude clubhouse, the Mission would be based in magazines, much sought after by the sea that the “out ofthe blue” offer of5O North a local office with chaplains visiting the men, were carried by the armload aboard Dunlevy for the clubhouse was an obvious ships to take an interest in social life on ships. “We helped with little things,” answer to prayer. He spent $4,000 and a board. One earlier example ofthis was the Canon Smith says. “We took the men to lot ofhours converting this office building Reverend John Leighton, Canon Smith’s soccer games and races at Exhibition Park, to a clubhouse. Canon Smith was also in predecessor. He used his own vessel for on sightseeing tours and to ethnic res charge ofthree satellite clubhouses, one in visits to ships in the harbour. taurants. We showed what religion is by New Westminster doing something and by caring.” sponsored by Holy One sailor told Canon Smith that in Trinity, and one on 1972 when the shoe boxes of small gifts the North Shore at were distributed, that box was only the the corner of St. second Christmas gift he had received in Andrews and First all his years at sea. All the Mission is trying Street, North Van to do is to be human and show a sense of couver, sponsored caring. by St. John the Di Although the visiting seamen were vine. These were encouraged, they were not coerced to visit operated by volun the small chapel in Flying Angel House. teers. One of these With the engineer on watch. The chapel’s motto was “All may enter, was Marguerite

14 B.C. Historical News - FaIl 1993 Nevertheless, we can well believe that The author is currentlypresident ofthe North with the early efforts and enterprise of Shore Histo rica! Society in North Vancouver, and Canon Smith, his volunteers and his as is theauthoroJThe HistoryofSt. Martins Church, sistants, Australian deacons John Kelly North Vancouver, B.C. He has written a number and Eric Newman, of magazine articles on historical subjects and is Flying Angel House presently writingan extensive Heritage Biographi. has become today “one of the finest Mis cal Index and Socio—Historical Service infrastruc. sions to Seamen clubhouses in North turefor the Municsal District ofNorth Vancou— America.” ocr. One other person must be mentioned The authoracknowledges theforegoing infor. mation is based on an article written by Audrey in this story of Christian fellowship. That Fox, published in The Vancouver Sun, Saturday, person is Evelyn, Canon Smith’s wife, December 8, 1973, greatly augmented by material friend and faithful companion for 54 hap from interviews with Canon Stanley Smith, No— pily married years. Mrs. Smith was Welsh vember 14, 1992, andJanuary 27, 1993, at his Ken Drushka, winner of a Certificate of home in North Vancouver. and had been a nurse and matron of a Merit from the B.C Historical Federation [ting nursing home in Swansea. Of Evelyn, Competition 1992. Canon Smith says: “She was a born nurse and a marvellous companion. She per fected everything I did; all chaplains’ wives are like that.” They were married on Sep tember2, 1937, at St. Cyfelins Maested in Wales. Canon Smith relates that one day when he was at the Seamen’s Mission in 4 Champion Runner Johannesburg, a relatively young man by Murguref Fougberg entered with obviously painful feet. On enquiring, he found that the man was the Cameron Linklater chief engineer of a steam-powered vessel Smith was born in and his painful feet were brought about by March 1888 in Turtle the heat ofthe steel deck plates around the Mountain, Manitoba. boilers. Mrs. Smith invited him to stay at His family moved to their house and treated his feet in such an British Columbia in effective manner that he went away and 1897, first in Gibsons :• returned that evening with four of his Landing, then Enderby, engineers with the same problem. All the and in 1901 settled on engineers were given the Nurse Smith Bowen Island As a treatment. The next day the ship’s doctor young man he became arrived at the Mission to complain that a champion Middle Jameron Linklater Smith racing after enlistment in Mrs. Smith had stolen his patients and his Distance runner. He Canadian Army. credibility, not to mention his pride. became a valued In 1985 Evelyn fell and broke her hip member of the Vancouver Y.M.C.A. track team winning first place in local and had to be moved to Evergreen House meets, the Herald race in Calgary on two occasions, and the Gold Seal race in North Vancouver, adjacent to Lions (classic of the Pacific Coast before World War One.) Smith entered against Gate Hospital. For six years Canon Smith all the well-known runners ofthat time including Harry Johnston, the Welsh daily visited his wife — until she died on champion. He not only won first place but set a new record for the course. October 29, 1991 — “Trying,” he said, Cameron Smith of Bowen Island went overseas with the 11th Canadian “to return some ofthe companionship she Mounted Rifles and was killed in action at Vimy Ridge in 1917. gave me,” including the 38 years he gave to service with the Missions to Seamen. ********** The name of Canon Smith will be long remembered with sincere regard in Margaret Fougberg, now living in retirement on Bowen Island, remem the history of shipping in Vancouver, bers her handsome uncle who let her examine his spurs while she sat on his New Westminster and North Vancouver, lap prior to leaving on the overseas draft. and that of St. Martins Church.

15 B.C. Historical News - Fall 1993 “Winged Victory” 1918. CPRc War Memorial Statue

by Helen Borrell

World War I’s “endless columns of history recognize the soldier’s leg puttees have ventured through the Rocky Moun war-weary marching men”1 included as part of a World War I uniform, and tains and the Fraser Canyon except via the 1,115 war dead who had been employees pause to read on the bronze plaque affixed Canadian Pacific Railway. Nor could of the Canadian Pacific Railway Com to the statue’s granite base: “To com isolated lumbering and fishing operations pany. “Winged Victory,” one of the memorate those in the service of the Ca have been started on B.C.’s forested, storm- company’s three memorial statues hon nadian Pacific Railway Company who, at barraged coast until the CPR’s fleet of

ouring these men, stands at Seymour and the call of King and Country ... endured little passenger and freight steamships

Cordova Streets, beside Vancouver’s hardship, faced danger ... “ which are linked them to the supply centre, Van former CPR station. disguised by the approved clichés that end couver. It is a bronze figure of the Angel of with: “giving up their own lives that others The CPR’s modern station at Peace, lifting a dead soldier with her right might live in freedom. Let those who Granville and Cordova Streets (inherited arm and holding high in her raised left come after see to it that their names be not by the city’s Sky Train) was finished in hand a laurel wreath. Viewers who know forgotten. 1914— 1918.” 1914. Those who came to hard work but The grim irony of these concluding inviting prospects in Canada could not sentences is that the dates “1939— 1945” know of the power rivalries and arms later had to be added. Almost exactly build-ups smouldering in their Old twenty-five years after World War I Countries. When war was declared in erupted,World War liwas declared. Sons, August 1914, most of the young men and daughters, of the first Great War’s called by recruitment ads “to serve your sacrifice victims queued at the recruiting King and Country” expected a brief, soon- depots. Their leaders had never organized to-be-decided conflict. the country’s economy and its manpower So CPR trains then speeded excited forawaron the Great Depression. But the young volunteers to army bases, and 1 930s unwanted unemployed consciously bravely smiling relatives and sweethearts ignored the CPR’s war memorial statues, wished them “Good luck!” The Canadian mistakenly named “Winged Victory.” Pacific Railway directors encouraged their On November 7, 1885, Canada’s employees who joined the Armed Forces transportation managers completed their with the promise offull pay for six months nation-crossing railway and built their and “a position of equivalent value” for Vancouver station, “little more than a those who applied for re-employment af wooden shed.”2 Hastings Mill and ter the war. Granville, small clearings in the bush be But the war stagnated as opposing side Burrard Inlet, were then opened by armies “dug in” along miles of trenches in rail to Canada, and next year they were France. The “khaki, mud, barbed wire, incorporated as the City of Vancouver. and mustard gas”4 of their surrealistic ex 4 Enterprising pioneers came, year by year, istence, with its explosions ofmass slaugh to the promising youngseaport. “Rows of ters, are aged veterans’ submerged streets, handsome shops, huge brick and memories ofWorld War I. stone blocks seem to have risen up in a During its four years, 11,340 CPR night and displaced the forest ofyesterday,” employees enlisted and 1,115, nearly one- I Bishop Sillitoe of the Anglican Diocese tenth, were killed. Another 2,105 were Winged Victory —1918. This statue standc told Father Clinton, rector ofVancouver’s wounded. (The records don’t specif,r if beside the former CP Railway station in first Anglican Church.3 But the settlers that meant “permanently disabled”; for downtown Vancouver. Photo by John Spthle who were building Vancouver could not such casualties, physiotherapy was then

16 B.C. Historical News - Fall 1993 3. Ecery Goed Gft A Hisrery ofS Jan,e Church by Phyllis Reeve, undeveloped.) The CPR Company kept finish for a statue, ... as the methods p. 30. rhapsr, 2 Mi,chelI Press Led., Vancouve,. B.C., 1980. its pledge to the survivors: it re-employed involving acids or burying bronze in the 4. “Vancouver Monumen,C’ Vancouver Sun, March 16, 1953. 5. “Canadian Padfic War Memorial,,” Canadian Pacific Railway 7,573 of its own men and provided jobs ground are too long and involved. How Archive,, ,n office P.O. Boo 6042, Ssarion A, Montreal. Quebec H3C 3E4. for 13,112 other returned soldiers. “The ever, when bronze is placed outside, like 6. A Guide ea Saulpture in Vancouver. p. 38.

King and Country” awarded military this statue is, over the years it gradually REFERENCE SOURCES decorations and medals, including two acquires a patina. Exposure to air gradu Those bared abuve. S,aus,cs — number of CPR employees who Victoria Crosses, seventeen Distinguished ally changes the bronze to green, sea air enlis,ed; number of dead andwoundrd; she mli,a,y awards — are recorded In a brtdhisrory In she Canadian Pacific archives. Service Orders and three Distinguished and pollution hasten the process. Rain Service Crosses, to 370 veterans formerly saturated with chemicals shows up as employed by the CPR. Useless tokens, streaks on the bronze. Such a patina is these men must have felt, as they struggled valued, or if not appreciated, can be pre for a niche in post-war life. vented from the beginning, by regular Convention required from the CPR washing and waxing ofthe statue. In 1967 some memorials of its glorious dead. So, some concerned citizens were horrified by in 1921, the company directors comniis what they called a ‘dirty’ statue and got sioned an established Montreal sculptor, busy with wire brushes and detergent to Coeur de Lion McCarthy, to create three scrub the ‘dirt’ off. Scratch marks can still identical statues of a fallen soldier borne be seen. The statue quickly assumed the on the arm oftheAngel ofPeace. On April normal outdoor patina of a bronze.” 22, 1922, one ofthese statues was unveiled Vancouver’s CPR station is a Herit beside the Vancouver station, CPR’s Pa age Building: artists painted its ceiling cific terminus; one at the CPR’s Winni murals and designed its classical-style peg station in central Canada; and one at plaster work. But the architects of our 1 Windsor Station in Montreal, location of modern era’s rapid transit built within its CPR’s headquarters. “Each War Memo lofty walls the Sky Train terminus and its rial was actually unveiled by the father or passage to the Sea Bus to North Vancouver. the mother ofone ofthose who in lifetime The stately Greek pillars and the handsome served the Canadian Pacific long and red-brick exterior have been washed of faithfully in the district where that Me city grime and preserved. But, twelveyears morial was erected.”5 ago, Canadian Pacific chose a less con The dedication speeches at these cer gested district for its Vancouver terminus. emonies were composed of the correct, For more than seventy years, the two impressive generalities. Lord Julian Byng, sculptured bronzefigures have been poised then Canada’s Governor General, ad by the former railway station, glimpsed dressed the veterans at the Montreal un momentarily by street car and bus pas veiling because he had commanded the sengers riding to their daily stations — great battle ofVimy Ridge. The veterans, their work places. In avery few more years we may be sure, were thinking of the the last veterans of the first Great War, Photograph ofthe “Winged Victosy”at Van thousands killed at Vimy Ridge: “What a now ninety and more years of age, will couvers GP.R, Station. To Mark Our Place: A History of Canadian War Me,norial.c, waste of lives that can’t be replaced!” join by Robert those who “passed out of the sight of Shit.dey -p. 6 N.C. Press Limited, Toronto, 1987. At other central stations of the Ca men.” Photo by David Street, nadian Pacific Railway — in Saint John, “And out of mind, too?” one imag Moose Jaw, Edmonton, and our prov ines some who perished in World War I ince’s Nelson and Victoria the compa asking its survivors. ny’s directors affixed bronze memorial plaques on the station’s wall. Each had the same inscriptio.n as that on the base of the The author, now retires has worked and walkedin downtown Vancouver over theyea “Winged Victory” statue: to their rs. She em has chosen to present the history ofthe statue with ployees who “finally passed out of the the emotions which surfisceatservices on November sight of men by the path ofduty and self- 11 and other occasions. sacrifice,...” and so on. REFERENCES

In her account of Vancouver’s I. ‘Vancouver Monomer,,,” by Leonard Meyers. Vancouver Sun, March16. 1953. “Winged Victory,” Peggy Imredy wrote6: 2. A Grid., ta Sculpture in Vaneenver by Peggy Imredy, p. 38 D M “Raw bronze color is seldom used as a Irnredy, 1980.

17 B.C. Historical News -Fall 1993 A Vanderbilt atAlberni

byJan Peterson

furnishes the freshest kinds of edi bles. When he arrived in Alberni, he asked the location of the best fishing spot and was directed to Klitsa Lodge on Sproat Lake. We betook ourselves to the former lake (Sproat Lake) and were quickly installed in a tent owned by that well-known character, Mrs. Wark. The Chalet is a most unique boarding house if such a com monplace name may be adopted. Mrs. Wark lives in a house-boat on Cathedral Grove Roaa one ofthe attractions which brought Neil Vanderbilt to Vancouver Isl,anL the shores ofSproat Lake. She owns This Leonard photo showing the Captain is a Frank car of George Alberi one ofAlberni’sfirst a few acres of property behind this entrepreneurs. Photo courtesy ofAlberni Valley Museum, PN 7147. which she has had the farsighted ness to turn into a kitchen garden. Sproat Lake has had its share of fa and Alberni were written in an article in Besides this she keeps two cows and mous visitors over the years, however few MotorLifi’, September 1920 issue. “There about a dozen chickens. Two miles have equalled the eccentric millionaire is an island off the British Columbian across the lake on a protruding Cornelius (Neil) Vanderbilt Jr., grandson coast known the world over as Vancouver point of land she has a little house of U.S. eastern railroad builder Commo Island. It is for the automobilist one ofthe which consists of dining rooms, kitchen and a few bed rooms for dore Cornelius Vanderbilt (1794 -. 1877) most beautiful places in the world.” and only son of Brigadier General Vanderbilt raved about the timber wealth, those guests who prefer to be in Cornelius Vanderbilt II.’ While on a the streams, the deer, bear and cougar, but doors. motoring trip on Vancouver Island in what struck him most about the island One morning, whilst we were 1920 he purchased Arbutus Island on was the English setting. To someone from having breakfast, several of the Sproat Lake.2 For several years he and his New York, Vancouver Island must have guests saw a little white ermine young wife vacationed there, attracted by seemed like paradise. The Island Hall in climbing out of one of the large the scenic and fishing possibilities of the Parksville particularly impressed him. He meat refrigerators on the back area. described the inn as porch. Can you believe this? The fishing, either fly or trolling, is said Cornelius VanderbiltJr. was born on well secluded from the dusty road to be better there than anywhere April 30, 1 898. He first attracted public and commanding a view seldom attention else on the coast. The climate cor when he virtually ran away from surpassed in this great Northwest, responds very closely with that of home to enlist with the American Expedi we found one of the quaintest inns England.5 tionary Forces. In April 1919 he began his of our trip. It is run by an English On this visit Vanderbilt purchased career as a cub reporter with the New York woman who, because of health, ill property at Sproat Lake. The PortAlberni Herald He first fell in love with the west has been obliged to retire to a more News reported: “Cornelius Vanderbilt Jr. coast when he was an overseas instructor suitable climate. The charming purchased an island for his wife while they at Camp Lewis, Washington, during English ideas of tourist inns has were on their way down the coast by World War I. Following his marriage to been carried out in minute details. Rachel Littleton on April 29, 1920, he automobile en route to California. While There are thirty small rooms, passing the lake Mrs. Vanderbilt saw the and his bride started on a tour of the west wooden walls, big stone fireplaces island and admired it so much that her coast.4 It was on this trip he fell in love and ahost ofother attractions. Cows with Sproat Lake, near Port Alberni. husband looked up the owner and made and chickens are kept right behind the purchase on the spot. Later the young His impressions ofVancouver Island the house and a vegetable garden

18 B.C. Historical News - FaIl 1993 described it, was firmly behind the Union 4, Jack. Richard Burde, publisher of the Port Alberni News, editorialized: We have been informed that Cornelius Vanderbilt Jr. flies the American flag over his residence on Arbutus Island, Sproat Lake and have been requested to publish a protest. There are some people in this community who regard Mr. Vanderbilt’s national display as a mark of insolence. Mr. Vanderbilt Klitsa Lodge, Sproat Like. It was built in 1910 as a summer homefor a Vancouver lawyer, E.P. is a young man who believes that Davis. In 1919 it waspurchasedby Mrs. Wark who establisheditas a retreatfrr the rich andfamous the people of other countries are from around the world Photo courtesy Alherni Valley Museum PN 4706 always impressed by a show of the American flag in their midst. There is no intention of hostility in Vanderbilt’s exhibition of good or couple intend building a hunting lodge The Illustrated Daily News of Los bad taste. He is reported to be pro on the island and passing their vacation Angeles came off the presses the morning British. He voluntarily acted as there.”6 Arbutus Island was renamed of September 1923, with a world’s 3, caddie for Lord Northcliffe on the Vanderbilt Island. record circulation of more than 130,000. golf links at Victoria recently During their visit to California, Three months later, on December 10, which is something the average in Vanderbilt decided to enter the publish Vanderbilt launched the Illustrated Daily dependent Canadian would allow ing field there. In the meantime, he con Herald of San Francisco, with a circula the distinguished lord to do for tinued honing his skill as a journalist, first tion of more than 125,000. himself. 11 with the New York Herald, then later the But Vanderbilt was a bit ofan upstart New York Times, before joining the in the newspaper world. William Residents ofthe Albernis viewed their United Press7 and Universal Services, Randolph Hearst, who published the flamboyant American visitor with some Washington, D.C. Examiner, first ignored Vanderbilt’s plans disdain, ignoring his frequent visits into In 1923 he made his move to the west and then tried to hire him as the figure town to purchasesupplies. Vanderbilt rode coast, founding Vanderbilt Newspapers, head ofa sensational tabloid he planned to in his large convertible, his scarf flying in Inc. As a promotion for his entry into the publish in New York City. When the wind, his nose seemingly in the air, at world ofpublishing he flooded Los Ange Vanderbilt refused, Hearst struck back. high speeds over the narrow roads leading les with circulars in June, announcing his When no Los Angeles company would to town. He gained a reputation of newspaper would be called the Illustrated rent him billboard space, Vanderbilt was “squeezing every orange before they bought Daily News. In editorial policy, the News resourceful. With money coming in from it, then complaining about the prices.”12 shunned news of crime, sex and scandal stock sales, he hired fifteen airplanes On one occasion he purchased some baked and featured bright photographs and con equipped with megaphones which urged goods from the Higginbotham Bake Shop cise news stories. Each person who bought residents to subscribe to his new “Penny in PortAlberni. Thestartled and somewhat a one-year subscription also received one Paper,” as he fondly called the News. amused storekeeper watched as Vanderbilt share ofstock worth $5 and became eligible Another morning a regiment of bathing brought out his cheque book and pro to vote for two of the five members of the beauties paraded through the streets, ceeded to write a cheque out for 25 cents. board of directors. His News was capital forming slogans such as “See Yourself in Needless to say, the cheque was received ized at $100,000. Pictures.” He hired 150 boys to paint with particular flair. The storekeeper, Vanderbilt insisted on giving organ messages on the sidewalks and walls of recognizing a good publicity move, had ized labour a chance in his printing plant hotels, banks and apartment buildings. the cheque framed and mounted on his in the days before unions. Skilled printers Angry landlords spent weeks removing wall, much to the consternation of his received $1.01 a hour in 1923 for a 48- the paint.’0 diligent bookkeeper.’3 hour week. Cub reporters received $35 for On one of his frequent trips back to In Los Angeles, San Francisco and a 60-hour week. For the first time in Los the Albernis, Vanderbilt, a proud Ameri later Miami, his newspaper chain was not Angeles, Vanderbilt offered them, along can, raised the ire of many residents by his thesuccess he anticipated. The newspaper’s with printing tradesmen, two-week paid display of the American flag. This “Eng failure had a lot to do with his editorial vacations.8 lish type” community, as Vanderbilt so policy. Advertising revenue was a disap

19 B.C. Hstorica1 News - Fall 1993 pointment. At first it had filled the News, lies. (The Illustrated Daily Herald Miami later he married Mary Weir Logan but but as Vanderbilt tore into the business newspaper had been started in 1924 un this marriage did not last long, within establishment, the 32-page tabloid dwin der the same policies as Los Angeles and three years they were divorced. He mar dled to 20 within a few months. For the San Francisco.) The Miami Heral.dwas left ried two more times. Both ended in di next three years, the newspaper lived off with $600,000 in unpaid bills when sev vorce. advertisements for motion pictures, eral hotel and real estate developments He continued to write for a variety of chicken and rabbit ranches, and oil stocks. failed. Advertisers, too, owed the Herald newspapers and magazines. In 1933 he After appraising the situation, he tried to about $300,000. His advice was timely. returned to Alberni, spending ten days at kill the San Francisco paper but his He commissioned a study into the chain’s Klitsa Lodge, now a thriving tourist lodge stockholders outvoted him, leaving him finances. The report believed the news on Sproat Lake and home of his friend no choice but to continue on. papers could be made profitable again Mrs. Wark. At this time Vanderbilt was In June 1924 Vanderbilt caused a with more money. active in the candidacyfor F. D. Roosevelt. flurry ofexcitement in Port Alberni when Vanderbilt went to his parents again. During the past five weeks he had covered it was reported he planned to build a pulp They refused. They said his papers would 25 states, speaking on behalf of the mill in British Columbia. He had given a have to be sold, if not sold, then closed. Roosevelt recovery programme. Re was speech at the Ambassador Cafe in Van His father had Vanderbilt sign a promis also an assistant editor of Liberty, a weekly couver, announcing he and his associates sory notefor $901,000 for the money they magazine, which compiled a survey ofthe were making arrangements for the con had loaned him previously. The money reaction to that program. struction ofa pulp mill in B.C. At the Port would be taken from Vanderbilt’s inher Alberni district residents noted he Alberni City Council meeting the fol itance when his father died. He bitterly was driving the very latest model car, a lowing week, Mayor A.D. Maclntyre signed the note. By April 28 he admitted 1934 model, carrying a Florida license raised the question of interviewing defeat. All three newspapers were soon in plate in the rear and a blue plate with the Vanderbilt on his next visit to his summer receivership. word “Roosevelt” on it in front. This home at Sproat Lake. The mayor and The Port Alberni News reported license plate marked him as a personal Alderman Macfie were appointed to in Vanderbilt had landed on the financial envoy ofthe president ofthe United States. terview him to try to persuade him to bad times with two of his newspaper en In an interview with Dick Burde of locate the pulp mill in the Alberni dis terprises.15 Not only was his business in the Port Alberni News, Vanderbilt re trict.14 Whether the talks ever took place trouble, so too was his marriage to Rachel. ported that in the past year he had covered is unknown. What is known is that the They were divorced November 16, a lot ofterritory, visiting India, Arabia and pulp mill project never materialized. 1927.16 Resold his island at Sproat Lake Africa for the Saturday Evening Post. He While Vanderbilt’s news policies may in October 1927 to Dr. C.B. Cooper, a was in Germany at the time of the Hitler have bored his readers, his editorials retired surgeon from Honolulu.’7 A year crisis and later travelled in western Europe outrightly enraged many readers and ad vertisers both in the U.S. and Canada. Unable to meet his expenses, he asked his parents for money in 1924. They agreed — but only on the condition he place most ofhis authority in the hands of :: a family-picked manager. Vanderbilt grumbled, but agreed to the conditions to preserve the chain. By 1925 the problems in the news papers could no longer be ignored. Vanderbilt, too, was in poor health. He had been seriously gassed during World War I, never quite recovering. He was in and out ofhospitals dozens oftimes. Again he asked his parents for help. Again they helped but imposed more control over his editorial and business operations. For a brieftime the newspapers were revitalized under new managers. On March 26, 1926, Vanderbilt re luctantly proposed to close all three dai Vanderbilt Island today. Photo byJan Peterson.

20 B.C. Historical News - FaIl 1993 and Russia. “In the past nine years Mr. Vanderbilt has written nine books, the best known of which is Reno. His daily writing contract calls for six thousand words a day which is syndicated to six hundred newspapers.” (In 1935 he wrote Farewe1ltoFfihAvenue in 1938 The Story ofthe TabloidNewspaper.g in 1959 MyLift on Five Continents.) He said the Alberni Valley was the best place he knew of to find rest and quiet.18 During the Second World War, Vanderbilt served as a major in Intelli gence. During 1942 to 1943 he was in Walter Reed Hospital for a physical dis ability. He was decorated with the Dis tinguished Service Cross ofFederal Bureau of Investigation in 1942. After the war he became active in the candidacy ofGeneral The residence on Vanderbilt Island as it looks today. There have been frw changes over the Dwight Eisenhower.’9 Eventually he made years. Photo courtesy of Joe Van Bergen. his home at the Vanderbilt Ranch in Sutcliffe, Nevada. He died in Miami FOOTNOTES 8 Alan Hetuther. Artide ‘Penny Paper,, The Vanderbilt newrpaper Beach, Florida, in July 1974. He is still crocado,” pubirched m the Cahfrrc,ia Htitorkd qnarkr, Suimme, 1. Biltmore Ertate, North Carolina, U.S. edition 1976. Vol. 55 #2, p. 162. remembered byold-timers in theAlbernis. 2. PortAlbtiNono,Arrgurr2S, 1920. 9. See Cahfrrnia and Grlcfreoiaw, p. 19. 3. ‘iTho’c Whom tOe Pa* Coot, puNirhed by TheA.N. Morqoit 10. Soe”PennyPapeet,’ p. 162. Company, Chicago, Illinoct: California LibracyCF 595. W64, II. PortAlborniNann,Au,gmt 1921. 1949. 17, 12. Varo,ria Timer, May 31,1952. Mrs. Peterson is a retired reporter now re- 4. Rockwell D. Hunt, editor CoIfirnia and Califrrnrano, I 92& Cab forum State Library, California Book Collection, GC979.4 H9, co 13. Doer, MacLeod, January 1991. searching early history of Port Alberni. She is a 19—20. 14. Port AlheeniNetcr,Ju,oe25, 1924. director of the Alberni District Historical Society 5. Motor Lrfrmagazine. Vaocouver Itland anVandenlalit See, it A Pa,, IS. Ibid., May 5, 1926. of Old England in North Am,eic.a Soptwnber 1920 true and a member of the Alberni Valley Museum 16. See Who’i Whom the Poojk Coaic 6. Port Alborcü Netco, Augtrut 29, 1920. Advisory Board. She hasjust releasedher book The 17. Port ,llberni Neto, October 5, 1927. 7. California Scare library. Ca/fonda Hzstor,1 Qoarterly, Summer Albernis 1860—1 922,publishedby Oolithan Books. 1976, No. 2,,oorce: Periodical collec,,on,Vol. 5552, pp.lhZ—I69. IS Ibid., November 16, 1933. 19. See Who Whoa,, the Pacufic Coca.

a dusty box of liquor bottles. These were chosen for colour (clear) and shape (interesting) and washed later to hold beautiful herbs for herb vinegar to be sold in our shop. Another director fell excitedly upon a pair of ladies lace-up, soft black leather boots. Indeed they carried on the instep the name of a daughter of a pioneer family. Opesuflo.’, Empfy-The-lJutqe “Just what I need,” said Sharon, “for my lady at the sewing machine.” A third director showed us an ordinary length of black by Ne/en Moore iron ... hmmm ... we will need lots of pieces of metal for the blacksmith’s shop. Hedley Heritage Society learned on July 3, 1993, that Aurelia Two lifetimes ofstuffwas moved. Oldwood went to neighbours. Vescovi offered the museum the contents ofher garage zfihe garage Bed springs went to a secondhand store. Some had to go to the could be cleared out real estate agent sold before the the property. dump. This was an old Hedley house which could well have historical AureliaVescovi was so pleased that she added many objects from items. After consulting with museum directors Sharon Minshull the house ... like 1930s cookbooks. We are pleased with the and Ruth Dunham, project “Fmpty-The..Garage” began on the acquisition ofmuseum artifacts, and look for some cash profit from afternoon of Sunday, July 4, and ended Tuesday, July 6. Our sales at flea markets and grateful to all who responded on short judgment call: which would be museum-class objects and what notice to participate. Aurelia, who has flown back to Switzerland, items suitable for flea market sale? Many volunteers were pressed and these helpers did much for the preservation of Hedley’s social into service. and mining history. We shared many a laugh as we all got dirty as we moved items, debatingwhichwere “saleable” and which “historic.” Sure sharpens Helen Moore wrote thisfor the newsletter ofthe Hedley Heritage, Arts your eyes! Ruth, who is an inspired cook, recognized the beauty in and Crafts Society. She is obviously an active board member.

21 B.C. Historical News - Fall 1993

22

1993 Fall News Historical B.C. -

of bridges composition in change The corn- the holding

in still is neither use. and owned, privately is government

Both Island. are Vancouver on vehicles for The provincial

ori5 bridges only of two cable-supported one ways.

1988. is This in to adjacent it immediately High and tation

structure steel sturdier to a build pany Transpor of istry

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potential damage and costs maintenance ac structure were

increasing limit, load A deteriorating associated and way

1957. in right-of- its Island,

opened and Milligan pany engineerGeorge Vancouver from

com by was designed bridge The above. Railway National

is built deck The banks. opposing the Canadian of drawal

on towers wooden girders between hung with Following

wood laminated parallel structure 1979. two is in use its last

sub The design. a cable-stayed is this since significantly

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B.C.’s Interior. of the west River Sanjuan 1934, crosses fate, the in built beauty, curved gracefully

in privately built bridges transportation on its decision in a but use longer high, awaiting This 44-metre River. Koksilah

of instances are there though government, no bridge, Island unusual Another over trestle Kinsol is best the Island,

or to companies to quently belong they remains uncertain. trestles the on remaining wooden Of

Conse valleys). carrying across water project Kinsol the for funding but toration, 1911. in relocated being

has aqueducts also over (Europe water res bridge historic of examples American before Fraser in Canyon mainline the

still highways and Island carry railways successful many detailed News Research 1885, on used first in but manufactured

on The Vancouver bridges significant of issue 1992 Transportation March-April was 79-metre Canyon Niagara across

temporary layoffs. no has The but equivalent. tures, Canada uses now line that steel The cantilever

and loss in revenue resulted significant struc such of preservation for necessary steel. replacing or with them gravel with

and weeks Nanaimo for eleven Railway cooperation inter-agency and funding structures their filling wooden began N

& 1896, 12, Esquimalt the closed 1966 national/state the for since existed & E the in bridge years, ten twice Niagara

Canyon November a on flood to trestle has legislation States, In United the board-foot 400,000 the replacing after

of loss Niagara example, spectacular the sum. that per 1907, of cent ten About water. near footed volatile

For linear non-functional. system becomes nearly of expenditures maintenance annual and were maintenance, ongoing required

the them, to larger without success ongoing $550,000, including not — over trains N & E carrying trestles nificent

key a are To bridges engineers, however, at estimated are and development modest mag the But of built wood. were bridges

en spans route. more these than significant of stabilization cost the Regrettably, try. early most steel, imported and trees strong

systems people transportation consider indus forest the in trains of importance with region a in expected be might As

many Indeed, of thought placement. their of the learn to for viewers opportunity Victoria. mileage from their for named

little with bridges cross us Most of offers site the and Canada, in few equals are also route beside this stops stagecoach

with relic inspiring an is The bridge former Other Roadhouse. Six-Mile the

of Progress Symbols Bridges:

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Th Past Our Bridges from wood to today’s dominant materi River bridge near Port Aiberni on May 19, efforts in event of the anticipated “big als, steel and concrete, results from rising 1990. Youthful arsonists set a fire there one” on the West Coast. load-bearing demand and recognition of which cost taxpayers $2.6 million for a A study of bridges reveals not just the savings in bridges with long lifespans. replacement concrete bridge. principles of engineering and trends in Wooden Howe truss bridges, which were With the lifespan of bridges increas design, but something ofsociety’s success. widely used on highways from the 1 920s ing, forethought is required in their de While intended to be functional, some through the 40s, are now being replaced. sign. Traffic volumes have to be projected have coincidentally come to be viewed as While a wooden bridge can last fifty years and the unirnagined anticipated. Like beautiful or worthy of preservation for (with high maintenance), cost-effective earthquakes. Since the late 1950s, high historic reasons. As you ride the roads or ness is the ultimate goal of modern engi way bridges in British Columbia have rails on your next trip, take time to appre neers. Today’s bridges have service lives of been designed with consideration of ciate the value of bridges. Their construc one hundred years. earthquake forces. During this time, en tion, design and function provide insights Risk to the structure by vehicles and gineering knowledge and earthquake codes into history, engineering and welfare of vandals is also a consideration in bridge have been substantially increased, par our society. design. The Kinsol trestle was ignited by ticularly after seismic disasters in Alaska graduation pranksters in 1988, but was and California. Today’s bridges are de fortunately extinguished quickly by vol signed to withstand shakes measuring 7.0 Tom Parkin is a Public Information Officer unteer firefighters from Shawnigan Lake. on the Richter scale, and older bridges can with theMinistry ofTransportation andHighways in Nanaimo. Previous writing by this author in However, the vulnerability of those links be strengthened to improve resistance. eludes a dictionary, Wet Coast Words, Orca was demonstrated by loss of the Sproat They will be vitally important to relief Publishers, 1989.

23 B.C. Historical News - Fall 1993 I •

Parsons’ Bridge, Victoria, prior to 1900 (now on Hwy IA). This crosses Milctream where it enters Esquimalt harbour. The building was an inn and is now the location ofSix-Mile Pub. This timber trestle was originally built in 1873 and subsequently upgraded to two two-Line curved concrete bridges. Photo courtesy of SCARS C#8030 Ni F-9390.

14

Viewing north across the Kinsol trestle. Work on the original trestle began in February 1911 but completion was postponed by economic hard times and WWL Work resumed in 1919 and was completed in 1920. Local youths burneda hole in the deck in 1988 (spacejust visible in this view). Photo courtesy of Tom Parkin.

Looking south across abandoned CA trestle on the Koksilah River near Shawnigan Lake This 614-fbot trestle, height 145fret, is called “Kinsol”for a nearby copper prospect(1902— 1907), the King So/sr mon Mine. Last usedin 1988 when the List train to .cross it weighed 350 tons (315 tonnes). This was taken over by the Ministry of Transportation andHighways on December31, 1990. Photo taken 1991 by Tom Parkin.

Demolishing an 180-foot treated-timber Howe truss bridge over the Sooke River on December8, 1969. This bridge on Hwy 14 was built in 1941 and repleced by a steel-arch structurein 1968. Charges were placedat each panelpointand simultaneously ignited. Thirty pounds of7/8 “x 8 “75per cent forcite was use€L Neither the new bridge, just 20feet away, nora 200-pairtelephonecable, 15fret away on the other side, were damaged. (Note the boom strung to catch thedebris.) Such methods are no longer used in this environmentally sensitive era.

24 B.C. Historical News Fall 1993 The Very Beginnings ofPrince Rupert

by Phylis Bowman Many and varied were the characters the tired engineer found shelter for him in December of 1906, and Dr. Tremayne who passed through the new little port selfand his men on the ground floor ofthe moved from Metlakatla with his wife and city of Prince Rupert in its fledgling days village hospital. Father Duncan and his two tiny daughters. They lived in a tent

— some whose names are perpetuated in followers had left the village some years beside the boardwalk, which Pillsbury geographical points — and others who before to start a new settlement, New named ‘Center Street,’ and Mrs. Tremayne laboured for awhile and then drifted offto Metlakatla, in Alaska, but Pillsbury was often told of the bitter cold of that first seek new fields of endeavour or left to welcomed by George Morrow, the Indian winter when water beside their beds froze serve in the First World War and never Agent (and later president ofthe National overnight and the baby’s bottle, put under returned. Biscuit Co. ofVancouver), Mr. Scott, the the pillows to keep warm, became frosted. The story of the actual construction schoolteacher, and Dr. J.E. Tremayne, a “Social activities were very limited of the “Dream City” of Prince Rupert young physician from Toronto who had this first winter, with the menu for the began in April of 1906 when the Grand been persuaded to come to the village Christmas dinner hand-printed and Trunk Pacific Railroad’s assistant engineer, because ofthe future ofthe nearby railroad colored with drafting inks by a railroad Joel Pillsbury, travelled from the compa city. foreman, Count Carlos Zenardi-Landi, ny’s head office in Montreal to Vancouver “The first camp on Kaien Island was and when the first dance was held on the where he expected to find a crew and located in accord with company instruc site on Feb. 23, 1907, a number of ladies supplies assembled by an advance man. tions,” Pillsbury’s notes continue, “an came from the nearby communities of But, according to notes recorded by important point as it set the focus for the Port Essington and Port Simpson to Pillsbury’s son, Richard, he found “some centre of the city and has caused since provide partners for the workers, and some supplies alright — 30 tons of iron for many bitter controversies. At that time, a of the passengers aboard the CP steamer blacksmith work — with the advance large part of Kaien Island was still Indian Princess May joined the party for the man in askidroad hotel suffering from the Reserve, and company orders were to build evening. effects of entertainment by the fast- a small dock and headquarters within “A government hydrographic survey working sales force of a large wholesale 1,000 feet of the Reserve line. Here the in charge ofG.B. Dodge and H.D. Parizeau hardware outfit.” work crew began clearing the trees and arrived, along with John Moore, a locat After some fast and heated work on brush, beside a small stream, and built a ing engineer for the railway, who chose Pillsbury’s part, a crew of thirty men, dock reaching out 50 feet in the water. the actual route of the line along the along with supplies and that thirty tons of The space between the dock and foreshore Skeena River. In September of 1906, iron (but minus the advance man) were was later filled in with rock and earth for railway executives had comewest to inspect loaded aboard the sturdy coastal vessel the railway yards which stretched along theworkdone and decided to rush through Tees to be taken up the coast to the Indian the waterfront. a topographic survey of the site so that village of Metlakatla, the only habitation “Up the little stream,” continue streets could be laid out and lots sold. The anywhere near Kaien Island on which the Pillsbury’s notes, “was built a 12-ft. plank survey was done by 14 parties, led by port city was to be constructed. Founded road and the first buildings were a few crews from the construction camps on the by a dedicated Anglican missionary, Rev. tents with wood walls and floors, and a prairies where work had closed down for William Duncan, in 1862, Metlakatla lean-to shack for a cook-and-mess house, the winter along the rail line. The Pacific had a wharf and could provide adequate with eight steps leading up to it, so steep Stevedoring Company contracted to clear accommodation for the work crew until was the slope. The wharfwas built using a and grub the townsite at $200 an acre, but buildings were constructed on the new piledriver rented from George had to throw up the job as they found it townsite. Cunningham of Port Essington and two too tough going. However, this company But here again, Pillsbury met with Columbia River boats which Pillsbury did build alargewharffor landing supplies another disappointment, for the wharf had bought for the survey crews. Peter and rails for the railroad construction. had blown down in a storm the previous Magar brought the driver over after piles The townsite was eventually cleared by winter, so everything, including the thirty had been bought from the Indians for individual contractors for $120 an acre.” tons of iron, had to be unloaded onto the eight cents a foot — they were all hemlock Bacon, the harbour engineer, featu red beach from the anchored ship offshore. with the bark left on as protection from greatly in Prince Rupert’s history at this After finally getting everything ashore and borers. time, for, according to Pillsbury, “it was stored above tideline (the shore was all “J.H. Bacon, the harbor engineer, he who advised the railroad company to mud and the tide rose twenty-four feet), had set up his headquarters near the dock build their port city on Kaien Island rather

25 B.C. Historical News - FaIl 1993 than on the mainland across the harbor, party in 1904 exclaimed, in steaming up lation the right and voice to hold and because of the prevalence of southeast the narrows: ‘Just think of it — I have dispose of their heritage. These struggles gales, and the south shores would be more passed this entrance hundreds of times have been the cause of bringing into the sheltered. Furthermore, due to the great and never knew there was such a beautiful limelight many of the rugged and invinci depth of water close to shore, floating harbour there!’ ble characters which tread so often the piers could be constructed much like those “The lands, comprising the townsite unbeaten paths offrontier life on the great in Liverpool in England, and he envisioned excepting a small Indian Reserve, were American continent. that 24 or 25 T-shaped docks could be acquired by the Railway Company from “Some ofthe oldtimers were virtually constructed along the harbor so the port the Provincial Government. John Knox, a shipwrecks cast up on this rock-hewn would have docking facilities for up to 75 lone prospector, secured a footing in the coast. Without money and without means freighters at once, with five overhead townsite by locating a mineral claim. The to move on to the next port they had of trestles over the tracks to the docks.” location afterwards became the settlement necessity to stay. It is often among such And so the little port grew, with pio of ‘Knoxville’ on which ‘squatted’ the that noble deeds and great triumphs are neers and settlers coming from all over to pioneers who disregarded the warnings of found. Amongst the prominent citizens of find work and set up businesses. In 1914, railroad officials not to come to Prince today are men of this class. Forgetting some of them, who had been there for Rupert until the lots were sold. The tent what had been in the face of the dire seven or eight years and therefore con ‘towns’ of Baconsville, Knoxville and circumstances, they valiantly assumed the sidered themselves “oldtimers,” published Vickersville represented the divisions and role of toiler in whatsoever manner they a souvenir album which they called “the camps of the earlier residents of this now could be used. ‘Hewers oflogs and drawers authentic story of the City’s Develop great and growing city. of water’ as man was so ordained to do. ment from Primeval Forest of Yesterday “Baconsville, which took its name Character and manhood was thus ripened to Commercial Centre ofToday. Colossal from the harbour engineer, included the to the glory and power of the coming Railway Terminal, Spacious Harbour, railroad staffers and followers. Knoxville generation who should build their homes Bountiful Hinterland and Commanding sheltered the independent pioneers and here Location make Prince Rupert the ac Vickersville took its name from the first “Prince Rupert’s growth has nothing knowledged Capital of the North policeman stationed here, the popular of the mysterious about it, the city had an And this is what was written under and kindhearted Billy Vickers, who had usually active body of citizens and the that glowing head: “In the western halfof been transferred from Atlin where he had energetic spirit has accomplished the work this New World there is scarcelyacity that been Provincial Chief Constable and ar in hand thoroughly and well, with the does not hold one or more citizens who rived in Prince Rupert in March of 1907 result that today Prince Rupert has a large can boast of having seen the place grow to take over the policing duties. Baconsville number of beautiful homes, up-to-date from a village to what it is today, but here, and Knoxville have been totally obliter wholesale and retail stores, three first-class at the western end of the Grand Trunk ated from their former appearances and schools, five banks, Government build Pacific Railway, we have the rare oppor have been levelled down, making a wide ings, five churches and a number of soci tunity of looking forward and fashioning expanse of yards and quarters for the eties and is still steadily today, in 1914, on in our mind’s eye a city sure to be. Prince terminal and station. Vickersville has also the path of greater and more substantial Rupert is situated midway between the been graded down and is included in the progress.” 54th and 55th parallel, 550 miles north of extensive area comprising the GTP And that’s how Prince Rupert began. Vancouver and 40 miles south of the Drydock and Ship Repair Plant which is Certainly not all of those high hopes have Alaskan boundary. It is the same latitude now the pride of the Coast and almost come true today, but you must admit that as London, and has a climate whose mean completed. the city certainly had a very auspicious temperature is about the same as that of “The pioneers commenced the for start, with the Sky as the Limit as far as the metropolis of the British Isles. bidding task ofcity building on this rock- progress, expansion and development were “The land-locked, spacious harbour girt island with optimism and determi concerned! made this the undisputable point for a big nation and the accomplishments oftoday terminal in keeping with the high stand constitute a world’s record. With Electric Longtime North Coast resident Phylis Bow man has written thirteen books and hundreds of ard which is the great feature of Canada’s Light, Telephone, Water, Sewerage and historical and humorous articles about the region new Transcontinental Railroad. Why was Permanent Roads in operation over the for the Prince Rupert Daily News and other pub this magnificent harbour unknown before townsite, the city is in a position today to lications. Daughter ofpioneer residents Syd and this time? It was generally believed that a accommodate Factories, Industries and Erna Hambl.in, she has heard many of these tales relatives. rocks extended across the narrows any manner of Commercial Enterprise firsthandfrom them and other She served ledge of in the Canadian Women’s Anny Corps in the at the entrance to the harbour which and care for a population of 25,000. Second World War andthen, with busbandLloyd prohibited vessels of large draught to en “From the earliest days, the citizens of raisedtheirtbreesons in PrinceRupertandare now ter it. The CPR Steamship Company’s Prince Rupert have been the zealous enjoying watching their six grandchildren growing veteran skipper on the North Coast on the guardians of their franchises and by their up. A former editor of the Prince Rupert News, Mrs. Bowman is now afeatured columnistfbr the occasion of the visit of the GTP official own efforts reserved for the future popu paper. 26 B.C. Historical News - Fall 1993 l1ieerg beøinnino o1 Prince l.&iwr1

These scenes ofthefirst days ofPrince Rupert show the wooden shacks and buildings u’hich lined theplank sidewalks which had been constructed over the boggy muskeg andstumps on the neuly cleared townsite. At upper left is the tent-town of “Vickersvile”— a conglomeration ofsettlers who squatted on land taken over by Provincial ChiefConstable Billy Vickers before lots were soldby the Grand Trunk Pacific Railroad The tents, which had woodenfloors andsides, with canvas coverings, were Liter removed to make wayfor the construction ofthe railyardc. Thepicture in the middle ofthe bottom row, taken in 1912, shows busy activity on thefirst main roadin town — CenterStreet—.spelledtheAmerican way as ithad been named bythe harbourengineer,J.H. Pillsbury, who was anAmerican, and shows some ofthe wholesale and retail stores, government buildings, five banks and three schools which were alreadyflourishing in the new little town.

PRICE RUERT ,-cç ,

Prince Ruperi on Kaien Island is con nectedto the mainlandandRidl.ey lskindby ISLAAV . .. S bridge, and to Digby Island byfrrry.

27 B.C. Historical News - FaIl 1993

28

1993 Fall News Historical B.C. -

1991). ALS (December by Loeppky, Syd Photo

Park. Heritage

Calgary at

now home McVittie

employed afterward, 30, and shortly 1882,

March on 103) (number Surveyor Land

Dominion a as qualified McVittie

architect. an as McVittie lists Barrie for

census 1881 the that to note interesting

is It and Toronto. Collingwood Barrie,

in had offices The eventually firm land.

Hol and McVittie Kennedy, as known

became it the partnership joined builder,

J. and a carpenter Holland, William

1881. When until August and McVittie

Kennedy of partnership in the and was

Architect, Kennedy, Thomas with joined

had December by but in Barrie office

own his opened he in 1880 Early

Barrie. of Henderson

Mr. a for state in Michigan working was

McVittie 1879, of fall 1879.” the In 10,

July until in sworn not was he majority,

for Zoo

Calgary

to

the moved once was 1883) (January newspaper a in Barrie of) tised (age his attained not then he had but as

It

Calgary. 4 in

built one

first the probably adver and winter that Barrie to turned apprenticeship years’ his three served

was lumber,

of

and

scraps driftwood re He Prairies. the on meridians fourth who boy reliable and good a was “Archie

of logs,

1882 in

built

house, McVittie’s and second the of west townships the he states: and pupil first Mr. Gaviller’s was

N.W.T.”

Calgary,

at office branch of outlines the of some surveyed and west 1872. McVittie in ofBarrie, PLS, Gaviller,

of the

charge take

“to in Ontario land moved he government, Dominion the by Maurice to articled became and surveying

Hol

and

McVittie Kennedy, from retire land up took also he meantime, the In

to

Archie

led

moves These Titles Office.

architecture. study to Toronto in College veyors.

Land

Calgary

the through ordered be

LandSur ofOntario Canada ofAssociation Upper courtesy to later went and Barrie

Photo

plan McVittie.

can

second

of this We.ct,nacott Reprints Archibald culation. in schools grammar and public attended

cir in

being

longer

no original the with He Street. Dunlop on store hardware

Office

Titles

Land

the of authority the a owned father his where his family,

under

redrawn been

since has plan This with Ontario, Barrie, to moved McVittie

Surveyor.” 2

L. D.

McVittie, A.W. (signed) fourteen, of age the At officers. and navy

884

1st January

Winnipeg, nance. army to Crown by the granted land on

Ordi

Title

of

Registration Territories Simcoe Lake of shores the 1830, on settling

North

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of

provisions

the under about Canada to came others, of number

prepared and is

plan

correct is “This

states: a with along They, Wars. the Napoleonic

that

plan on

The “certification”

Calgary.

from officers military half-pay were thers

A, Plan as is

known

This plan

Calgary.

grandfa maternal and paternal the Both

of

City

the new in

plan

subdivision first McVittie. Bessie Sr. and to Thomas born

the signed

McVittie 1.,

1884,

on January children ofeight fourth and son the second

and Fort

Macleod for

townsite out the laid

5, 1858. was He May on Ontario, ronto,

1883

he in

Later

Territories.

Northwest To in born was Columbia) (British ES

the

in

investment

soliciting Calgary,

DLS, (Ontario), PLS McVittie, A.W.

in

agent real estate and

surveyor as a McVittie Westmacott Archibald

CLS BCLS, Allen, W Robert by

Surveyors Land Brothers. McVittie use as a souvenir shop but in 1965 it was strumental in developing the district coal district: moved to Heritage Park, where it stands and lumber industries, as well as working 1896 St. Mary’s Trail to Summit and a today. The signboard in front states: with John Hutchison in real estate. He Map of Fort Steele Mining was a founding member ofthe Cranbrook Division. An early Dominion Land Surveyor, Board of Trade. 1897 Kimberley Townsite, Sullivan Archibald W. McVittie, lived in McVittie’s next move was to Victoria, Group of Mineral Claims, this cabin. Dominion Land Sur where they had a home on South Turner Marysville Townsite and veyors, as these men were known, Wardner Street. Mrs. McVittie’s sister and seven- Townsite. divided the prairies and parkiands year-old son followed for a “visit.” That 1898 Moyie River ofwestern Canada into legal parcels Placer Mining visitingyoungsterwas to become Canada’s Company. that incoming settlers could claim renowned newspaperman and author, 1899 Fernie Townsite. as homesteads. Between 1879 and Bruce Hutchison. The late Hutchison 1900 North Star Claims. 1889 surveyors measured and says in his book The Far Side ofthe Street 1901 Marysville Smelter and mapped some 61 million acres, an additional “Thanks to the McVitties’ generosity it townsite. area more than one-third the size of (the visit) lasted for about two years.”6 In 1903 Kootenay Central Railway, Alberta. In addition to surveying the same book he described Uncle Archie Wardner Townsite, Estella Mine, farm lands McVittie laid out the as “ ... a successful Land Surveyor of Sullivan Minesite.9 town plots at Fort Macleod in 883 middle age, an inveterate speculator in T.T. McVittie was elected and at Calgary in 1884. as one of worthless mines, and a good man though the first churchwardens when Anglican A.W. McVittie hosted the first Ma an his bristling black beard somewhat congregation formed John’s sonic meeting in Calgary in his home and St. parish in frightened me.”7 McVittie dabbled in real January was is recognized in the records of the Grand 1896. He secretary of the estate in Victoria and Lake Cowichan Fort Steele Mining Association, Lodge of Alberta. Until 1887 McVittie president and, according to Hutchison, the collapse of the Liberal-Conservative Club, school lived in the Calgary area and worked in of the land boom at the beginning of trustee, on various committees the partnership of McVittie, Child and ofthe Board World War One “ruined” him.8 of Trade, and WiLson, Architects and Surveyors. found time to join in the Archibald Westmacott McVittie entertainment presented Archie then moved to Fort Steele following the passed away after ashort illness on August annual school Christmas where he joined his brother, Thomas concerts. He 24, 1926, at his home at 1411 Mitchell became Townsite Thane McVittie, LS, where they practised Agent for R.L.T. Street in Oak Bay, Victoria, B.C.,and two Galbraith in April An land surveying in the booming East 1898. announce days later he was laid to rest at the Ross Bay ment in the FortSteeleProspector, Kootenay. McVittie Bros. shared a build April 16, Cemetery. 1898, states: “All having ing with the Fort Steele Assay Office. persons business Thomas Thane McVittie in connection with (This assay office is now reconstructed in the townsite are di T.T. McVittie, LS,was born inBarrie, rected to transact same Fort Steele Heritage Town.) Thomas the with T.T. Ontario, on February 9, 1855. He was the McVittie and to make Kennedy invited him to return to Barrie, all payments due or first son and third of eight children born accruing due on lots already sold to him.” which he did from 1895 — 97, then re to Thomas McVittie Sr. He acquired his He resigned traced his steps to Calgary and Fort as school trustee in June education at Upper Canada College in Macleod. Silver-lead mining development 1899, made extensive renovations to his Toronto, then was engaged in railroad house, and in December in British Columbia brought him back to he married Anna work and township surveys. He came to Galbraith, daughter Fort Steele in time to become a charter of Alexander S. British Columbia in 1879. At the age of Galbraith member ofthe Fort Steele Board ofTrade, ofOneida, New York, and niece twenty-six he went into private practice as of Robert Galbraith, which held its inaugural meeting on Sep Fort Steele’s most asurveyor at Galbraith’s Ferry (later called prominent tember 2, 1897. By spring 1898, four citizen. In October 1900 Anna Fort Steele). The communitywas renamed lost the surveyors were advertising in The Pros only child they ever had, an infant following the withdrawal of the North son, a pector A.W. and T.T. McVittie, Charles great disappointment for them. West Mounted Police in 1888, at which Estemere and T.H. Taylor. Quotes from the extant correspond time T.T. McVittie was made a Justice of ence of He married Emily Louise Leslie of Harold Nation, a young English the Peace. He had the longest continuous man working Prescott, Ontario, at St. John’s Anglican near Moyie, describes visits service of any Justice of the Peace in the to the McVittie Church, Fort Steele, on November 18, home where they had “a East Kootenay. great 1899. They had two children, Charles number of papers and magazines The East Kootenays were being ex and a splendid Archibald, born in June 1900, and little library with many plored, mines developed and townsites first editions and Margaret Emily, May 1902. After the out-of-print copies.” built in the 1890s. A partial list ofsurvey Mrs. McVittiewas children were born, the McVittie family very fond ofThackeray, projects conducted byT.T. McVittie gives among other authors, moved to Cranbrook where he was in- and Nation was us some idea of his contribution to the glad to borrow and read a number of

29 B.C. Historical News - Fall 1993 books at her suggestion. then we had dinner. My, how awkward I jobs he did with ease and grace. His In December 1901, when he was felt in manipulating the dainty silverware speaking ability was often praised; even working in the bush near Moyie, Nation and china, and my poor hands looked his acting (in a Fort Steele farce) received was invited to spend Christmas with terrible against the tablecloth, being in mention. Thomas and Mrs. McVittie. To get to grained with pitch in every cracked place. In 1916 his beloved Anna died, after Fort Steele he “struggled through the “To describe the house; the original which time his own health began to fail. In snow” in his best shoes to the Swansea log cabin, in which McVittie lived for a 1918, thinking a change might help his railway junction and used a borrowed two long time, with its open fireplace and condition, he went to Edmonton to stay dollars to buy a train ride to Fort Steele stone chimney is now changed into a with his brother-in-law and sister, Mr. junction, where he caught the stage to modern drawing room, and the fireplace Justice and Mrs. Scott. He passed away on Fort Steele. He continues: “My feet got surrounded with a mantle piece. Averan March 25, 1918, and his funeral took pretty wet during my walk and pretty dah is on each side, and a bathroom with place in Edmonton two days later. nearly froze when I was sitting still in the water is a splendid luxury.” Judge Frederick Howay described stage. However three hours chill in the Young Nation was invited back quite Thomas Thane McVittie as “widely and evening air came to an end as we drew up often, even though he turned down favourably known, not only as an able in front of the house where a welcome Thomas McVit tie’s offer to article him as surveyor but also as a representative and light was streaming like in those post a surveyor-in-training. During a visit in useful citizen.”11 cards. McVittie came out on the sidewalk July he gives a charming account of the to greet me. As soon as I got into the tiny beginnings of a new day in the McVittie hall Mrs. McVittie advanced up the household: “In the morning McVittie gets RobertAllen beads a company ofsurveyors in Sechelt, B. C He is a member ofthe Historical and drawing room and greeted me. She is very up and lights the fires and makes coffee, Biographical Committee who have written Early small and jolly and is fond ofyoung men, singing cheerfully the while (the dog Land Surveyors ofBritish Columbia Vol. landare having had many brothers and no sisters. chiming in with a sympathetic whine!). preparing volume two. “They at once showed me to my He then comes to me with coffee and says bright small FOOTNOTES room, a place plastered and that the bath is ready. (Oh my Gawd, 1. Association of Ontario Land Surveyors annual meeting roport for beautifully clean. After my old tent and what luxury!) Out ipop and while I am in 1927, p. 122, more or less dirty surroundings, it seemed the bathroom Mrs. McVittie comes out Copy of Plan A in the Calgary Land Title, Office. Biographical sketch on file with the Simcoe County Archives, p. 7. too nice to go into. However, I changed and gets breakfast ready.”1° Description of rbeMcVirtiecabin byCalgary HerisageParkSociery, and got my poor feet warm and dry and By March 1903, Nation was report p. 12. Sr. John’s Parish Records, Fort Sede Archives. ing to his Aunt May that he was 5. 6. The Far Side ofthe Street, Bruce Hutcisison, p. 25. to be “sort of general assistant 7. Ibid, p. 25. to Mr. McVittie at $75 a month 8. lbid,p.44. 9. List compiled by David Morley, Operations Manager, Fort on the Kootenay Central Steele Heritage Town. Railway preliminary survey.” 10. Research from the MT. Notion files by David Morley. II. British Coln,nbia Frees Earliest Times to the Prese,ti Vol. 3, This was a generous wage. He Judge Frederic Howay. had been making up to $34 the SOURCES previous December. Perhaps StmcoeCountyArcbives (James R. Campbell); JimSharpe, BCLS; ....v. Bob Lemaster, BCLS; John Armstrong, BCLS; SydLoeppky,ALS; surveying wasn’t so bad after Beny Thompson; Bruce Hutchison; Tales ofthe Ktttenays, Fred J. Smyth (pp.79 and 81) Association ‘k .° of Ontario Land Surveyors all? (Jane Heffernonb Eon Steele HeritageTown (Martin Ross, General Manager, and Dereyll White,Archivist); Fort Steele— Here Hssttry Thomas, cheerful, active Lives, Derryll White. and successful in both business and civil affairs, gradually as sumed leadership in the com munity. If the Premier of the province visited the area, it was Thomas who made the ar rangements. He became a per sonal friend of Richard McBride during his premier ship, but hosted many other political visitors. Ifa major trade Thomas Thane McVittie at Fort Steele with his Chinese fair was to be held, even in servant (could be Chin Tie or Louis). Photo F.S. 1.281 courtesy of Fort Cranbrook, he would be in Sleele Historic Park Archives. volved in planning. All these

30 B.C. Historical News . Fall 1993 NEWS & NOTES DOUGLAS COLLEGE ALUMNI?? ALEXANDER DOUGLAS Mabel was an enthusiastic and accomplished local historian. She published extensively in the Anyone with certificate, diploma or more than TURNBULL - 1903-1993 Canad,n Geographical Journal, the Alberta 45 credits from Douglas College is urged to Doug Turnbull graduated in 1925 from the Historical Review, and the Steele House send his/her current name and address to the University of Toronto with a BASc in Metallurgi Magazine. During her term as President, she Douglas College Alumni Association, Box 2503, cal Engineering. He came to work in Trail, B.C. New Westminster, B.C. V3L 5B2 or phone 527- delivered three Presidential addresses: on at the Consolidated Mining and Smelting Co. Florence Baillie-Grohman, Dr. George Mercer 5322. It is fun to receive the newsletter or where he held various posts over the next 40 Dawson, and Sir Sandford Fleming, all of which receive invitations to special events. years. He was active in municipal and provincial were published in the B.C. Historical News at the government affairs between 1944 (when he was TWO RAILWAY MUSEUMS time. The Jordons gave generously not only to Reeve of Tadanac) to the 1949-52 sitting of the the East Kootenay Historical Association, but On June 19, 1993, the Cranbrook Railway B.C. Legislature where he served with three also to the Glenbow Museum and Archives. We Museum became officially “The Canadian portfolios under Byron Johnson. He was should not only celebrate the life but also mourn Museum of Rail Travel.” The collections of appointed to the Science Council of Canada the passing of such a gifted and gracious lady. period cars, lovingly restored to their original 1966-70. He and his wife Elsie moved to beauty, are a showcase of railway passenger Victoria following his retirement. He was very DON SALE: HONORARY LIFE ranging from the 1 880s to 1954. Curator cars active in the Natural History Society, then the MEMBER Garry Anderson has worked tirelessly since founding president the of ‘Friends of the Thomas Donald Sale has been Corresponding 1976 to accumulate and restore whole train Provincial Museum” (1970). Elsie and Doug sets. The Trans-Canada Limited, 1929, is Secretary of the BCHF since 1983, pIus being a moved into Somerset House in the spring. A.D. thoughtful judge for our Writing Competition described as “a collection of world-wide Turnbull passed away June, on 23 1993 in since its inception. This work has been dove- significance; in its niche it is without rival.” Victoria. Revelstoke Railway Museum opened June tailed with many community activities in his 16th, just 11 months after the first sod was REMEMBERING MABEL JORDON hometown of Nanaimo, everything from the turned. This new project was directed by Wilma by Anne Yandle Bathtub Races to Legion to St. Paul’s Parish Council (where he served since 1946 and is Wood of Island Eco-Museum fame. The interior It is with regret that we have learned of the of the new museum takes on the appearance of accorded title of Warden Emeritus). He is a death of Mrs. Mabel Jordon in Calgary earlier Knight of Grace in the St. John Ambulance a pioneer railway station. Its aim is to honour this year. Mabel and her husband Ben, both the builders and workers on the Canadian Brigade where he has been an instructor for 50 members of the East Kootenay Historical years. He is currently Vice President of O.A.P. Pacific Railway from Kamloops eastward. A Association, were staunch participants, along papier-mache model shows the different routes Branch #4. Masonic duties have been attended with their faithful terrier, of the annual meetings to for years, and he serves as a director of the the rails have followed through Rogers Pass of the B.C. Historical Association. In 1968, from 1885 to the present. Nanaimo District Museum Society and Treas during one of the many crises in the life of our urer of Nanaimo Historical Society. Don was Both museums are significant attractions for association, Mabel took over as President, even train buffs and their families. named Nanaimo Citizen of the Year by the though she and her husband had retired to Chamber of Commerce in 1974, received the Calgary. Over the years, at considerable effort to J. ARTHUR LOWER - 1967 Centennial Medal in 1967, and the 125th herself, Mabel never missed a Council Meeting HONORARY PRESIDENT Anniversary Medal in 1992. This busy fellow or Annual Meeting. takes time to be with his family of four children The 1993-94 Honorary President of BCHF has Mabel’s sound leadership and calm diplomacy and eight grandchildren up in the Cariboo, on held many challenging positions over the years. set the Association in a new direction, and it Gabriola Island, or in Victoria. We honor Don He obtained his B.A. & M.A. from UBC; became was during her presidency the B.C. Historical Vice Principal of University Hill School; execu for the many hours he has worked to preserve News was established as the voice and record of and promote B.C. history (and hope we have tive assistant Vancouver School Board and of the Association to replace the then defunct B.C. energy to follow the energetic path followed by Continuing Education at Langara College; Historical Quarterly. Provincial Coordinator for UNESCO 1973-74; this almost octogenarian). National Coordinator Interchange of Canadian Studies 1975-76; and President, Vancouver Historical Society 1954. He prepared several Curriculum Guides for the province, and has written six textbooks on our history, the most significant of which is Canada: An Outline of History, McGraw-Hill Ryerson, 1966 with second (revised edition) 1991. He continues to write for magazines, periodicals and newspa pers. He was awarded the 1984 medal for distinguished Canadian writing by the Canadian Authors Association. Mr. Lower and his wife Thelma have served as consultants to the B.C. Historical News for six years. We welcome Mr. Lower to his new role with our Federation.

B. C. Historical Federation Officers: back row - Doris May, Treasurer; Wayne Desrochers - lvi, L;

- - - Arthur Lower Hon. Pres. Front row Don Sale Corr. Sec.; Mary Rawson - M.L.; Alice Glanville -

- 1st VP.; Myrtle Has/am Pres. Missing: Ron Weiwood - 2nd VP. andJohn Spittle - Past Pre. Photo by John Spittle

31 B.C. Historical News - FaIl 1993

32

Fall

1993 News Historical B.C. -

career. be small One should omission noted:

University. Fraser Simon at Department chives. to hard together life piece Guttendge’s and

a is History Mark the of member Leier Ar Vancouver the to over and them turned sonal upon, draw to has papers Howard worked

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records Co-Masonry Universal 91 The 1931. British in women, politics and had Colum labour, left little she after her with England — contact

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the to editor: directly sent be book should for Books reviews n book and review review BOOKSHELF BOOK SHELF ONTD

Aboriginal Peoples and Politics: The McKenna-McBride Commission (1913 answered one of the two basic legal questions The Indian Land Question in — 1916) was organized to regulate the land pertaining to aboriginal title in British Colum question with the province. The result of the bia. The Indians did have title to their lands British Columbia, — 1849 1989 1916 Commission led to the 1927 federal before colonial government was established, Paul Tennant. Vancouver, UBC Press, government special committee report of which and aboriginal title is a pre-existing legal right. 1990. Paul Tennant provides an excellent synopsis The other question, whether explicit extin showing 305 P.’ cloth $39.95, paper $19.95. that the tactics used by the federal guishment is necessary or whether implicit ex government during the committee meetings tinguishment is sufficient, was still to be an In pre-contact times they were autonomous were unjust and that the report showed signs of swered” (p. 226). He also deals with the denizens who traversed land, forests and wa contradiction. The result of the 1927 report compromises that have been made between ters in what is now known as British Columbia. was an amendment to the Indian Act which the Natives and big forest corporations and the •These Native tribes hunted, fished, gathered, suppressed the Indians from becoming politi Social Credit Party during the 1980s. These traded and some even pillaged other groups, all cally active and from seeking legal services for compromises were the result of protests that for a common goal: to maintain their sustenance, land claims. This amendment lasted until the occurred in the Stein Valley, Meares and Lyell cultures and beliefs. The Indian Act (1876) Indian Act was revised in 1951. Islands which prevented the forest companies shattered many Native traditions. The Natives The Indian Act intended to assimilate the from logging old growth forests on Native lands. became second class citizens, who lost traditional aboriginal peoples but instead it segregated Aboriginal Peoples and Politics: The Indian rights and lands and were placed in small and destroyed many tribes and their cultures. Land Question in British Columbia, 1849 — isolated enclaves in once, their own homelands. Not until recently, during the late 1960s and 1989 is an excellent source that is a concise Paul Tennant’s book, Aboriginal Peoples and more importantly in the 1970s and 1980s, history dealing with a period of 140 years of Politics: The Indian Land Question in British have the Native groups gained an active voice intriguing and valuable information on Native Columbia, 1849—1989, provides what seems within B.C. and Canada with the support of land claims, Native rights and Native politics. to be the most comprehensive study of the political Native groups. Tennant looks at how This book will be a welcomed addition to the Indian land question and native politics in B.C. pan-Indianism in British Columbia compares already vast and growing list of literature on the from the early colonial times up to 1989. The with its counterpart that started in the U.S. and First Nations people available for both scholars purpose of the book “is to describe the history how it has helped Natives politically in B.C. and those who are familiar with British Co of the land question in British Columbia and to The book discusses the various Native or lumbia’s past. reveal something of remarkable achievements ganizations that were active during the 1930s Werner Kaschei of the Indian peoples in their steadfast pursuit to 1950s, specifically focusing on those asso Werner Kaschel is a teacher in the Surrey of their land rights through peaceful political ciations found along the coast. He examines School District. means” (p. ix). some of the significant contributions of Native The author describes the first treaties estab leaders who supported and led Native organi The Fraser Valley: A History lished in colonial times on Vancouver Island zations such as Bill Wilson, George Watts, John A. Cherrington. and he provides more insight than have other George Manuel and Frank Calder. Tribalism Madeira Park, scholars as to why James Douglas did not witnessed a revitalization, gaining popularity B.C., Harbour Publishing, 1992. establish treaties with the Natives on the during the mid to late 1970s since the Nisgh’a 391 p., illus. $44.95. Mainland or more on the Island. “The central and Nuu’chah’nulth organized in the 1950s. The Lower Fraser Valley is a distinct elements in Douglas’s land policy after 1854 region of The purpose of the tribal groups was to replace B.C., with a population in excess of 750,000. were his de facto denial of aboriginal title, his bands as a means of political representation. It has distinct ph ysical, ethnic, social and religious granting of only small reserves, and his defence Paul Tennant describes the dissension and characteristics. Yet there has never and encouragement of Indian land pre been a sometimes animosity that evolved between the comprehensive regional history of the Valley emption” (p.37). Douglas believedthat Natives different Native organizations and their leaders. until the publication of the present would be granted the same land rights as non- work. Individual philosophies, ideologies and the John Cherrington Natives within a short period of time. However, is well qualified for the task. classification of status versus non-status Indians He is a Mount Lehman this belief did not materialize. Douglas’s re lawyer whose interest were some of the reasons for discord among in Fraser Valley history was placement, Joseph Trutch, postulated that the piqued by boy the different Native leaders and organizations. hood visits to his grandparents’ Natives did not own the land which they had Maple Ridge He addresses aboriginal title in several sig farm. He is the author of lived on for hundreds or even thousands of the 1974 history of nificant court cases in which the Natives gain Mission, Mission years. Trutch ensured that Article 13 of the on the Fraser, and is active in some status in the Canadian legal system. The the Fort Langley Legacy terms of agreement between Canada and B.C. Foundation, a herit 1963 White and Bob case of Vancouver Island age conservation group. stated that when B.C. entered Confederation acquitted two Indians who were hunting out of Harbour Publishing has in 1871, the Dominion government would be done excellent design bounds. Thomas Berger argued on behalf of workwith this large-format, responsible for Indians and their reserve lands. hard-cover volume. the Indians using the 1763 Royal Proclamation There are historical photos Loggerheads have generated since this time illustrating most and the Douglas 1854 treaty documents, both pages and the typography and still exist between B.C. and Canadian and layout is attractive of which stated that Natives still had hunting and interesting. governments regarding the extinguishment of and fishing rights in these territories. Berger Geographically, the Indian land claims. After the introduction of the book covers the territory won this court case which facilitated him in from Richmond and Indian Act in 1876, Natives in B.C. and else Delta east as far as Hope, being the legal advisor of the Nisgh’a people in as well as the traditional market where in Canada lost more rights and valuable town of the the 1973 Supreme Court hearings. The out Valley, New Westminster. land. As well as being concerned for traditional The time period come of this court case granted the Nisgh’a the covered is circa rights and land entitlement, different Native 1800 to the present. right to the title of lands prior to the colonial In his treatment, groups from B.C. have sought self-government Cherrington succeeds in government coming to power in 1858. These striking a balance between and have been concerned for social issues the scholarly and were essential court victories for the First Na popular approachesto history. The major events since the late 1880s. tions people and “by 1989 the courts had

33 B.C. Historical News - Fall 1993 BOOK SHELF ONTD in the region’s political, social and economic This latest book is an accompaniment to the mountain forest could be in no other place in history are covered with as much detail as the authors’ first book, entitled The Harrison the world but British Columbia. scope of the work allows. There are a few errors Chehalis Challenge, which was published in The thirty-nine short stories tell us of life in the of historical fact, but they are not serious. As an 1988. McCombs and Chittenden provide an camps, ending with World War II. About the amateur historian, the author can be excused overview of the logging and sawmilling in the same time easily accessible logging was finished. for failing to examine all possible information valley, starting with the earliest operation in the The stories relate to day-to-day living, the sources. It is unfortunate that he was unable to 1850s and working up to the present day. Each happy and sad times, especially how children visit all of the excellent community archives in chapter describes the history of a different adapted to their environment While there the Valley, however. section of the Fraser Valley, covering areas were many restrictions, there was also a free The narrative is lively, peppered with quotes from Surrey to the lower reaches of the Fraser dom that is lacking in modern day childhood. from contemporary reports, correspondence Canyon. The most poignant story is about finding a and news articles. It is enlightening to note The book is filled with both amazing and lonely cabin built by a World War I draft Lady Franklin’s impressions of New Westmin intriguing pictures of the past, depicting de dodger. ster in 1861; the Surrey School Board’s opin struction, toil, progress and stature. Accompa Photos from the author’s album have been ion of young female teachers in 1907; and the nying these photographs, the authors have chosen to illustrate and capture the work and excitement experienced by the soldiers of the included hand-drawn pictures of logging appa play of the isolated camps. Westminster Regiment coming home by train ratus and maps of each logging region which The book is of a vanished social life, and would in 1946. show the railways and their spurs and nearby be an excellent text -bookfor school children to Anecdotes and personality profiles give a cities or communities. Unlike their first book, see life without roads, cars and television. good feel for the social customs and life expe Harrison-C hehalis Challenge, this book pro riences of Valley residents and history-makers. vides a chronological summary for a quick Peggy Imredy The reader is introduced to such characters as reference to a certain time or location in the Peggy lmredy is a member of the Vancouver the stoical Fort Langley fur traderJames Murray logging history of the Fraser Valley. As well, the Historical Society. Yale; the earthy farmer-politician Honest John addition of a glossary is convenient for people Oliver; and the irascible Ladner potato-grower unfamiliar with forestry jargon. Other Publications Noted Chung Chuck. One error in the book was a typing error. For Cherrington, the study of the past is not “Aluoette” found on page 64 should have read The Bella Coola Indians. compartmentalized or separated from an un “Alouette.” An important part of writing any T.F. Mcllwraith, Toronto, University of derstanding of the present or the future. In his history is describing both the area and the Toronto Press, 1940, re-issued 1992. final chapter, he views the rapidly changing people who made it possible and in this book 2 vols., $60 paper, $125 cloth. landscape and social make-up of the Fraser the authors have done an admirable job doing Valley with concern. As the population of this. However, they describe the owners of The Discoverer’s Guide: Fraser River southwestern B.C. grows, friction between these operations and the size of these mills Delta; Exploring the River. urban and rural lifestyles will continue. In his without mention of the labourers. They could Don Watmough, Edmonton, Lone Pine view, the traditional individualism of Valley have briefly alluded to the latter part of the Publishing, 1992. farmers and small business people is increasingly nineteenth and early twentieth centuries when 127 p., illus., $12.95. at odds with the need for regulation, and is Chinese, East Indian, Japanese, Scandinavian The Forbidden City Within Victoria: Myth, threatened by large-scale development. and other ethnic people were employed as Symbol and Streetscape of Canada’s This book is likely to be popular for years to labourers in these enterprises in Surrey, Langley Earliest Chinatown. come, as an attractive gift item, as a well-used and other locations of the Fraser Valley. David Chuenyan Lai, Victoria, Orca, 1991, library book, and as a useful information source Prior to this extensive research the authors 212 p., $12.95 for students. “did not fully realize the severity of the problem Jim Bowman [overcutting] in the Fraser Valley until writing Nelson British Columbia Canada. Archi Jim Bowman is a Chilliwack archivist and local this book” (p. 153). They suggest that more tectural Heritage Walking Tour. historian. effort and care must be taken in the future Revised edition, Nelson Streetscapes, 1993, harvesting of our forests if there is to be a forest Available from Ron Welwood, RR 1, 1806 The Fraser Valley Challenge: An industry in the future. Ridgewood Road, Nelson, B.C. V1L 5P4. Illustrated Account of Logging and The Fraser Valley Challenge was an enjoy Free. able read and will provide new knowledge for Sawmilling in the Fraser Valley Page’s on Silva Bay: Memories of Fifty those who were unaware of the Fraser Valley’s Years, 1943 — 1993. Arnold M. McCombs and Wilfrid W. logging and sawmilling past and it will bring Gabriola Island, Page’s Resort, RR 2, Site Chittenden. Treeline Publishing, 1990. back memories for those who worked in the 30, Gabnola Island, B.C. VOR IXO, 1993. 176 p. forest industry. Werner Kaschel 28 p., $1.50. The two authors should be commended for Railroading in British Columbia: their efforts in this book on logging and Raincoast Chronicles 14; Fish sawmilling in the Fraser Valley. The book, The A Bibliography. Fraser Challenge, describes and illustrates the Heads & Caulk Boots. Ron H. Meyer, B.C. Rail Guide No. 12, 1973, second edition revised 1993. technological advancement of logging and Florence Tickner. Madeira Park, Har sawmilling equipment in the forest industry, as No price given. bour Publishing, 1992. 80 p. No price well the various entrepreneurs and forest as given. When The Rains Came and Other Leg companies that have both harvested and es ends of the Salish People. tablished sawmills in different areas of the Fish Heads Caulk Boots’ cover painting by As told to Dolby Bevan Turner, illustrated by Fraser Valley. Some of these lumber barons still Jim Spilsbury sets the scene for this book. The D. Johnnie Seletze, Victoria, Orca, 1992. logging harvest the forests in the Fraser Valley today. isolation of the float camps and the 112 p., $19.95

34 B.C. Historical News - Fall 1993 Whatever Your Heritage, Re Thunkfu! For It.

Mountain men and a trappers cabin won the .SA : prize for Best Float (see picture to right) in the Creston Blossom Festival parade in May 1993. The cabin is a replica of one on display at the Creston Museum. Those on the float are (clockwise): Wally Johnson, in black tam, original owner of the cabin. Now 93, this man made his living in the mountains, and until two years ago, enjoyed dancing especially the two- step and quadriules. Fred Cappell (white beard) last owner of the cabin. He made his living for many years by trapping. Rae Masse, backpacker, lumberman, miner, and charter member of the Creston Historical Society. Carle Jones, mischievously guarding the still, Market Hunting in Surrey mounting it in the bow of his duck punt Lund as he has always guarded the Dewdney trail loaded his own shells, as did many of those who by Stan McKiaa,n near Creston. Cane has just received an Award hunted for sport. of Merit from the B.C. Museums Association. Boys growing up in Surrey after World War Game birds were abundant in the Fraser Valley prior to World War I. Even in the late I and into the 1930s hankered after a gun 1920s the possession limit for ducks was fifty and their parents often let them hunt a little bit, even if they were under age. A licence to hunt per day; for pheasants, sixteen a day. — Brace C.Dickie accompanied by an adult could be secured From an interview with Jim Sullivan, when you were sixteen years of age. March 29, 1993 There was very little possibility of junior teenagers getting into trouble with the law. There was only one game warden for East Rurnuby SchoIursh4 Winner Delta, all of Surrey and much of Langley Mu nicipality. And most fields in Surrey were sur rounded by bush into which a young lad could scramble if the game warden were sighted. Jim Sullivan of 6311—152nd Street, Surrey, I recallsthefirstgun hewasallowedtouse. Itwas a .22 rifle. “In those days we plinked at everything. One Grace Dickie, Past President and Audrey Ginn, day I had the .22 and took a shot at the hawk (white gloves) past Secretanj of Chemainus which had been soaring around the district for Valley Historical Society as they appeared in the Chemainus Daze Parade 1991. a few days. Down it came, and I discovered that the ‘hawk’ was a pigeon belonging to one of the Thetis Island has lost its Historian with the neighboring ladies!” passing of Grace Dickie on August 19, 1993. Jim Sullivan remembers a Mr. Lund who Mrs. Dickie served many years as president of was still shooting ducks for the market, though Paige Raibmon - This U.B.C. student is the Chemainus Valley Historical Society. She there were few practitioners left by then. the 1993 winner of the Burnaby was also active in the Chemainus Hospital “That would be about 1918.1 can remember Historical Society Scholarship Auxiliary, Rebakah Lodge, and served on the Mr. Lund waiting at the Sullivan station for the The Burriaby Historical Society is pleased to Chemainus Hospital Board. This cheery lady B.C. Electric train. He had a leather harness announce the awarding of the 1993 Evelyn attended many BCHF conventions, sometimes which went over his shoulders, with loops of Salisbury Scholarship of $1,000 to Paige sharing her enthusiasm for Railway History heavy wire shaped like a keyhole. The duck’s Raibmon of Vancouver. About to enter her with like-minded attendees. head was placed through the loop, with about fourth year in honours history at the University ten ducks held by each loop. of British Columbia, Miss Raibmon has shown “He’d be carrying as many as forty mallards, 3n JMemoriam: an interest in researching all aspects of the which would make it quite a load with which to It is with sadness that the Burnaby Historical Indian residential schools in B.C. particularly mount the steep steps into the train.” Society notes the death of Dr. Violet Eagles in the Coqualeetza Residential School which was Lund took the ducks in to the New Westmin June, at the age of 94. Dr. Eagles and her located in Sardis. She is planning to explore this ster Market or to Vancouver restaurants. husband, the late Dr. Blythe Eagles, established part of the history of the province’s Aboriginal “Twenty-five cents a brace was the standard the Evelyn Salisbury Scholarship in honour of People as the topic for her graduating honours price for the ducks.” Evelyn Salisbury, a past president of the Society, essay. Lund lived in a house built on stilts adjacent who worked tirelessly to protect Burnaby’s his This year, the Burnaby Historical Society to the marshy area where Bear Creek flowed tory. received five excellent scholarship applications into Serpentine River. A trail led to it from Both Violet and Blythe Eagles were long which gave the judging panel a difficult job in Johnston Road (152nd Street). time active members of the Burnaby Historical the selection of the award recipient. Society. He used a 10-gauge shotgun, sometimes

35 B.C. Historical News - Fall 1993 Books entered in the B.C. Historical Federation 1992 Writing Competition Conference 1994

District 69 Historical Society and * Medal Winner Qualicum Beach Historical and Mu ** Certificate of Ment seum Society are co-hosting the annual Listed in the order received. conference of the B.C. Historical Fed eration April 28 to May 1, 1994. Beginnings: The Rollin Family and Rollin Art Centre by Catherine Lord. Headquarters will be at the Island Hall, Funeral Service in British Columbia by Harald Gunderson. a long time resort hotel on the beach at Vancouver and Its Region edited by Graerne Wynn and Timothy Oke (UBC). Parksville. Plan now to attend this confer *Orter Skins, Boston Ships and China Goods by James R. Gibson (McGill-Queen’s). ence with your friends and enjoy a Silver, Lead and Hell: The Story of Sandon by Veronika Pellowski (Prospectors Pick). good program. Stay awhile and take in the many attractions of the beautiful Our Chiefs and Elders by David Ned (IJBC). Paksville-Qualicum area. Wewill look On Stormy Seas: Captain Vancouver by Brenda Guild Gillespie (Beach Holme). forward to having you. Thomas Crosby and the Tsimshian by Clarence Bolt (UBC).

Canada’s First Nations by Olive Patricia Dickason (McClelland & Stewart). Corrections - Summer 1993

The Albernis, 1860 — 1922 by Jan Peterson (Oollchan). “Carnarvon Terms or Separation” Hourglass: The Deforest and Carpentier Families by Diane Dobson. Page 14,c. 1, par. 4. Princess Louisa The Struggle for Social Justice in B.C.: Helena Gutteridge by Irene Howard (UBC). is Princess Louise. Vancouver: A Visual History by Bruce Macdonald (Talonbooks). “Life Blood of the Savona Remembered by Edward Villiers. Okanagan Valley” In the Path of the Explorers by Steve Short and Rosemary Neering (Whitecap). Page 18. Heritage Walks Around Vancouver by Michael Kiuckner and John Aitkin (Whitecap). The purchase was instigated by premier John Hart.. Port of Nakusp by Milton Parent (Arrow Lakes Historical Society). should read H.M.S. Virago’in the Pacific by G.P.V. Akrigg and Helen Akrigg (Sono Nis). premier John Oliver. The Vancouver Voyages of the Barque Pamir by Richard E. Wells (Sono Nis). Both were errors of the author, missed Victoria’s Street Car Era by Henry Ewert (Sono Nis). by your editor. Not Without Hope by Louise Johnson (Maple Lane PubI.) Vancouver’s Voyage by Robin Fisher (Douglas & Mcintyre).

Cork Lines and Canning Lines by Geoff Meggs and Duncan Stacey (Douglas & McIntyre). t/u #iaa& na **Working in the Woods by Ken Drushka (Harbour). z9,zat The Fraser Valley by John Cherrington (Harbour). eFvztma **Homer Stevens: A Life in Fishing by Homer Stevens and Rolf Knight (Harbour). Send your gift order Slow Boat on Rum Row by Fraser Miles (Harbour). to:

Nancy Peter - Fish Hooks and Caulk Boots by Florence Tickner (Harbour). SubscHption Secretary 5400 Kikyo: Coming Home to Powell Street by Tamio Wakayama (Harbour). #7 Patterson Ave. Burnaby, B.C. VSH 2M5 Kamloops: 100 Years of Community by Wayne Norton and Wolf Schmidt (Sonotek). c4 $12.00 wit/z a&.. **The Victoria and Sidney Railway, 1892 — 1919 by Darryl E. Muralt (B.C. Railway Historical Association). $17.00 pe4 iea t oMe ctJ Light at the End of the Tunnel by M.C. Warrior and Mark Leier (Tunnel & Rockworkers This Union). magazine is available in microform. Back volumes Valley of Dreams: Pictorial History of Vernon and District (Greater Vernon Museum & Archives). of this publication are available in microform The Milk Lady: Memories of a Farmer’s Wife by Patricia Lines. (film or fiche)

36 B.C. Historical News - Fall 1993 1993 6484 Fall - 733 758-2828 984-0602 743-9443 988-4565 437-6115 422-3594 748-8397 753-2067 295-3362 733-6484 825-4743 988-4565 581-0286 537-5398 251-2908 442-3865 598-3035 595-0236 News Historical R9 2N4 1 R9 B.C. 1 LO V7M 1 V7R V7R B.C. 2B9 VOR lEO E4 B.C. 3S6 1

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1X4 iwo V3R B.C. Hill, C CM, B.C. V8R VOR 5P4 B.C. Vancouver, VOH 5N2 B V9S L B.C. Vancouver, loan VOX B.C. Vi Vancouver, a B.C. B.C. Lam, V9R North B.C. Cobble B.C. Victoria, North for B.C. Ganges, C. 2K0 B.C. Bay, North Burnaby, B.C. Vancouver, Surrey, 21, Forks, Vancouver Road, Columbia apply VOB Victoria, Road, Street, Avenue, David to Ave., Road, Nanaimo, St., Nelson, Drive, Street Princeton,

Ave HISTORICAL Avenue, B.C. Comp. Grand 1, Cowichan Crown Nanaimo, British C 152 details 687, 20th Crown 20th Street, 10, of 746, Hutchinson Road E4 22 Wasa, 933, Quamichan Patterson 1 Chesterfield and S Mount Box Box Woodland Box 8811 West West Shelbourne 1291 Honourable Mount Box publishing. 105, V6S 1898 Sharp Juniper 1241 of P.O. P.O. RR#i 1406 advice the 3450 3450 Box #7-5400 2943 P.O. #5-1450 1241 262 B.C. for RR#3 cost Stoneberg, Mar, Jill Spittle, Whittaker, Lower May, Desrochers, the Sale, Miller, Peter, Ranneris,

Haslam, COLUMBIA Yandle, Yandle J. Farr, Rawson, Spittle, D. Glanville, Welwood, Honour, Rowland, Don Pamela Margaret Nancy Doris Naomi Arthur Jill Contact Ron JoAnne Anne Vancouver, John Mary Tony toward Lieutenant-Governor Myrtle Wayne Anne John His T. Alice Arnold Markers

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Competition THE Review President: Historical Historical involved Vice Vice Writing (Lieutenant (not Subscription Publishing Editor Scholarship B.C. Membership Publications B.C. Historical Book Past Award) Recording Members-at-large President: 1st Archivist COMMITTEE Honorary Secretary: Honorary 2nd Treasurer: OFFICERS: ______

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BC HISTORICAL FEDERATIoN WRITING COMPETITION The British Columbia Historical Federation invites submissions ofbooks for the eleventh annual Competition for Writers of B.C. History. Any book presenting any facet ofB.C. history, published in 1993, is eligible. This maybe a community history, biography, record of a project or an organization, or personal recollections giving a glimpse ofthe past. Names, dates, and places with relevant maps or pictures turn a story into “history”. The judges are looking for quality presentations, especially if fresh material is included, with appropriate illustrations, careful proofreading, an adequate index, table of contents and bibliography from first-time writers as well as established authors. Note: Reprints or revisions of books are not eligible. The Lieutenant-Governor’s Medal for Historical Writing will be awarded to an individual writer whose book contributes significantly to the recorded history of British Columbia. Other awards will be made as recommended by the judges to valuable books prepared by groups or individuals. All entries receive considerable publicity. Winners will receive a Certificate of Merit, a monetary award and an invitation to the B.C.H.F. annual conference to be held in Parksville in May 1994. Submission Requirements: All books must have been published in 1993, and should be submitted as soon as possible after publication. Two copies of each book should be submitted. Please state name, address and telephone number ofsender, the selling price ofall editions ofthe book and the address from which it may be purchased if the reader has to shop by mail. Send to: B.C. Historical Writing Competition P.O. Box 933, Nanaimo, B.C. V9R 5N2 Deadline: December 31, 1993. LATE ENTRIES WILL BE ACCEPTED WITH POST MARKUP TO JANUARY 31,1994, BUT MUST CONTAINTHREE COPIES OF EACH BOOK. * * * * ** * * * * There is also an award for the Best Article published each year in the B.C. Historical News magazine. This is directed to amateur historians or students. Articles should be no more than 2,500 words, typed double spaced, accompanied by photographs if available, and substantiated with footnotes where applicable. (Photos will be returned.) Please send articles directly to: The Editor, B.C. Historical News - P.O. Box 105, Wasa, B.C. VOB2K0 \ -I