Bostig Factory Manual

G22 "The good life is inspired by love and guided by knowledge" -Bertrand Russell

Introduction: Confidence, value, and education are the core goals of the Bostig Conversion System. It has always been our goal to provide the customer with a complete and comprehensive guide to follow throughout the entire process. Thus the written instructions and videos have evolved along with kit as it has progressed over the last 8 years.

This guide will help you complete the conversion from start to finish, and help you to develop confidence and familiarity working with the conversion. It covers all of the online material. The guide is also a reference which will help to keep the proverbial mole hill from turning into a mountain. We've shaped the guide based on years of feedback from customers and careful study of the conversion in order to help make things progress as smoothly as possible.

The guide is broken into Pre-install, Install, and Post-install. Inside of the guide you will also find parts lists for each of the provided sub kits. Some sections also include references to installation videos. These videos will have basic overviews which will accompany them to aid in the conversion process.

This factory manual puts Bostig in a league of its own in the engine conversion market. There are no kits as complete as the Bostig Conversion System, and no other kits come close to the level of documentation that the Bostig Factory Manual and videos provide.

Thank you for choosing the Bostig Conversion System and if you have any questions or find discrepancies in the guide please let us know.

-Jim, Brady, and Kyle

INTRODUCTION: ...... 1 SK-In Instructions ...... 63 PRE INSTALLATION ...... SK-In Cooling Hookup ...... 64 Overview ...... 3 SK-In Power Steering ...... 71 Do’s and Don’ts ...... 5 Speed Sensor/Ring Instructions...... 73 Required Parts list...... 6 Brake Booster line Instructions ...... 74 Tool and Workspace Preparation ...... 7 Decklid HS Instructions ...... 75 Engine Inspection and Preparation ...... 8 Throttle Cable ...... 79 Engine Preparation Checklist ...... 9 Automatic Transmission notes ...... 82 SK-A Partslist ...... 11 Serpentine Belt Routing ...... 83 SK-A Instructions ...... 13 SK-In Engine Oil ...... 85 SK-C...... 17 Cam Timing Check/Reset ...... 86 SK-C Instructions ...... 19 POST INSTALLATION ...... SK-M ...... 23 Overview ...... 89 SK-M Instructions ...... 25 SCT Instructions ...... 90 SK-E ...... 29 Elmscan5 Scantool ...... 92 First Run Instructions ...... 94 SK-E Instructions ...... 31 Around the Block ...... 97 SK-I ...... 35 APPENDIX ...... SK-I Instructions ...... 37 Torque Specifications ...... 100 SK-W Instructions ...... 41 Required Tools List Explanations ...... 102 ECU Chip Installation ...... 48 Rock Auto Order List ...... 107 MIL light Installation ...... 49 Engine Call Sheet ...... 109 Tachometer Resistor Modification ...... 51 Power Steering Pump Call Sheet ...... 112 SK-In ...... 55 ECU Call Sheet ...... 114 Configuration Box ...... 56 Torque Converter and Flexplate Prep/Fitment ...... 119 Configuration Box ...... 57 Maintenance Schedule ...... 120 Configuration Box ...... 59 Configuration Box ...... 60 Additional required parts ...... 62

Pre Installation Overview

Prerequisites  Ability to read, or access to someone who can.  Windows XP or Windows 7 computer with USB port, or access to one.  Internet connection or access to one.  Willingness to learn about the conversion process and what it takes to keep your own van on the road.  Basic tools(metric for virtually everything), wheel ramps/jack, and basic knowledge of their use.

Phases of the conversion process The conversion and its documentation are broken down into three phases for ease of completion, and consistency of results.

1. Pre Installation 2. Installation 3. Post Installation

Kit Hardware Organization The kit is broken into "Sub-Kits"(SK) based on functional and chronological order.

The order and names of the sub-kits can be remembered by use of the mnemonic

devise "ACME - I Win". Unlike ACME however, if Wylee E. Coyote had bought a kit from Bostig, he would have been eating roadrunner instead of beating himself up.

Pre-Install Install Post-Install

Elmscan5 Read Inspect Around the SK-Adapter OBDwiz Overview Trans Block Overview

Read Inspect SK- SCT Required and Prep SK-Cooling Mounting Software Inspect Parts list Parts Continued Installation

Read Call Engine First Run Drive 100 Sheets Preparation SK-Mounting SK-Exhaust Inspection miles

Read Rock Check Prepare Check 100 Mile Auto Order Cam Van For SK-Intake Other Van Inspection List Timing Install Systems

Long Term Read Air Box Remove Log/ SK-Wiring Maintenance Required Mod Old Engine Monitor Tools List Schedule

Separate Prep Work SK- Complete Place Engine/ Area/Tools Installation First Run Orders Trans

IMPORTANT NOTE FOR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION CONVERSIONS!

DO NOT! have your Automatic Transmission or Torque converter rebuilt just prior to the conversion process. Leave the setup which has been working in your van for at least 3000 miles after you've completed the conversion. This is crucial to determine that everything is working properly on the conversion without other variables. If you have any questions or special circumstances please give us a call regarding this.

Do’s and Don’ts for Bostig Conversions

In no particular order

your oil changes every 3k-5k contact us with questions use new oil before your first run DO DO DO Doing oil changes on time is the single most important thing you It’s part of what you paid for, and it can save you time and Even with a crate engine, use fresh oil can do to ensure the long life of your engine. headaches.

DO send us pics and video of your install DON’T assume your fuel system is fine DON’T hesitate to send us checkup logs A picture is worth a thousand words, therefore NTSC video is worth The fuel systems are aging and we’ve seen plenty of sludge filled Want to know how she’s running? Aside from tracking MPGs 29,970 words a second. Use our eyes to check out your install top tanks clogged filters, bad lines, etc. Fuel is your go juice, but can also sending us a drive log can quickly and easily assess the state of to bottom it’s free and can avoid problems you might overlook. burn your van to the ground and kill/injure you. Treat it with the operation of the engine. It’ respect and importance it deserves.

ignore scheduled maintenance worry track MPGs DON’T DON’T DO While it will put up with a lot of abuse… your risks go up if you Worry doesn’t solve problems. Action can. Contact us, ask It’s easy to track how many miles you travel, it’s also easy ignore scheduled maintenance. It’s also the best way to get to questions, put your learning cap on. Through experience and by to track the amount of gas you use. develop a feel for the condition of things. An ounce of prevention is design we know that 99% of Bostig problems are small, dumb, and worth a pound of cure. cheap, so don’t worry.

DON’T overfill your oil DON’T ignore problems DON’T start it up during storage Underfilling is better than overfilling. Overfilling can lead to Notice a new noise or behavior? Don’t ignore it, ask us for Cold starts after sitting for several days are the most damaging frothing/foaming from the crank counterweights hitting the oil, help, or try to track it down yourself. types of starts. You can put enormous wear on an engine starting it which lowers the lubrication capabilities of the oil and will shorten once per week running it for 5-10 minutes and shutting it down over engine life. the course of winter storage.

DO start in neutral without the clutch in DO check cam timing/replace timing belt DO preflight checks The thrust bearing surface and your starter will last While you can’t destroy a zetec with a broken or mistimed Going on a long trip? Check our your ride *before* you go. longer. But don’t launch your van into anything either! valvetrain like you can with VWs or subies, you can run poorly, lack Simple checks can go a long way. Parts that heat cycle are Make sure she’s in neutral. power, and have lower economy. It’s the easiest timing belt to of particular interest. replace in any application we’ve ever seen, so take advantage and do it when called for or if you don’t know the state of the belt. Sitting/aging ruins belts too, not just use.

Required Parts list items in partslists marked with Sorted by part source location

Salvage Yard: Miscellaneous: RockAuto.com:

Used Engine: Alternator: Rockauto.com order: $90 - $650 Including freight $25 - $200 99 Ford Contour $350 Parts that we have historically (see Engine Call sheet in appendix) (4cylinder 2.0L DOHC engine) alternator purchased through them, but it is more either salvage, new, or high output) cost effective for owners to buy them Power Steering pump: directly than for us to handle and mark them up. $25 - $50 Best to buy salvage Serpentine Belt: (see Rock Auto Order List in the appendix) (see Power Steering Call sheet) K060775 Gates Serpentine Belt K060837 Gates Part# if you have AC ECU: Crate Engine only Parts: Review the Serpentine belt routing for

$20-$50 Best to buy salvage further ordering information. We (see ECU callsheet) recommend buying these two parts at a Locating Pins national parts chain like Autozone etc, so (W701-350-S437) Ford only Mass Air Flow Meter/Airbox warranty replacement is that much easier. Stock Exhaust Manifold Heat shield $25-$45 for MAF $20-$40 for airbox (4S4Z-PN-454-AA) Ford only 2000-2004 DOHC zetec focus. Stock vanagon clutch: Must be cut/modified to fit behind right Or our MC heat shield add-on If needed ($150) We recommend the OE taillight. Sachs unit over the Luk heavy duty or Block heater plug (optional) otherwise. Any of the online vendors in the (YS4Z-6B018-AB) Ford only

Ford: vanagon community can provide the correct clutch. Tensioner Pulley (YS4Z-6A228-AA) Ford or Auto parts store Motor Mounts: $91.74 - $120 each (order from Ford High pressure fuel line to replace old fuel Idler Pulley only) 00-05 Ford Taurus, order two. lines: $30-$75 (98BZ-8678-AC) Ford or Auto parts store

(YF1Z-6038-AA) Make sure it is Fuel Injection(FI) high (2) M8x30mm bolts pressure line, not FI low pressure. Hose size (To mount the tensioner pulley to the alt is 8mm or 5/16" Roughly 18 feet covers the Cooling System Gaskets: bracket) Ford or Hardware store send/return lines on a 2wd, Thermostat (W700-319-S300) 8 feet for a syncro Thermostat housing (W701-379-S300)

Tool and Workspace Preparation

The Tool List: (see the Appendix for explanations)

 Torque wrench capable of 83ft/lbs in 3/8’’ or ½’’ drive.  Inverted Torx Driver Bits (E7 and E10)  Ratchet 3/8" and/or 1/2" drive  Wrenches  Set of sockets for the appropriate drive size that you’ve selected  Cam Timing tool set (OTC 6486) (5.5-22mm)  Floor Jack  3" and 6" extension for the drive size that you’ve chosen  Engine hoist  “Scotchbrite Pad”  Paper Towels  Hammer or Mallet (preferably a softfaced or deadblow, medium sized  Hand Cleaner hammer)  Tape Measure  Diagonal Cutters  Scissors  Masking tape  Utility Knife  "Sharpie" permanent marker  PB Blaster (or similar penetrating oil)  A bunch of plastic baggies  WD40  Philips head screwdriver (or a few in different sizes/lengths)  "Red" (High strength) Threadlock  Flat head screwdriver (or a few in different sizes/lengths)  "Blue" (Medium strength) Threadlock  Vise Grips  RTV (Black adhesive silicon capable of high temperatures)  Necessary tool to remove the CV’s (E8 triple square or 6mm Allen)  Drip Basins/Extra bucket/Wet-Dry Vac  Ramps/Jack stands  Absorbent Clay/Kitty Litter  Blocks of Wood(size needed)  Safety Goggles  3/16" Allen Wrench  Cardboard  8mm Allen Wrench  Brake Cleaner or Acetone  Adjustable Wrench/Pipe Wrench  Assorted small metal picks (dentist picks)  Torx Driver Bits (T45 and T55)  Ratchet Straps (2)

Engine Inspection and Preparation

Tools and materials(not included):  Various Phillips and Flathead screwdrivers  Vise grips  Driver and Torx bits T-25 and T-30  Sockets 5.5-22mm  Driver Extension  Wire Brush  Various Ratchets  WD-40  Breaker Bar  Digital Camera  Needle nose pliers

Preparation: 1. Read the entire set of instructions before beginning to do any work.

The Gist:  Watch the Engine Video while using these instructions as a reference.  When the Delivery Truck arrives you will want to inspect your used engine for any damage or missing parts. (take pictures)  G22+ needs to keep their thermstat housing (video is older)

Engine Inspection Notes List: (follows the provided Video)

Overall engine shipment - Not Shipped on the intake side of the engine

Intake Side of the engine - No damage to intake manifold. Including the intake runners and nipples. - Throttle body is present and undamaged - Throttle body Butterfly is undamaged and moves freely - Stock Bracket for the Throttle cable is present - Harness for the fuel rail is present and the plugs on the tps match - Sub-Crankcase/windage tray doesn't have holes or cracks in the case or bolt holes - Knock and Oil pressure sensors are present and undamaged

Exhaust Side of the engine - Exhaust Manifold Heat shield Present (not commonly present, you may need to source the stock ford heatshield or purchase the optional MC heatshield) - Exhaust Manifold present and undamaged - Sub-Crankcase/windage tray doesn't have holes or cracks in the case or bolt holes - Water pump inlet not cracked

Pulley Side of the engine - All pulleys are present and not cracked (write down any which are missing so that you can resource if needed) - Doesn't have holes or cracks in the case or bolt holes - Water pump nozzle not cracked - Alternator Bracket present and undamaged

Rear Side of the engine - Thermostat housing present and undamaged

Top Side of the engine - Spark Plug galley doesn't have rust/debris/water in it. - Cam cover has no cracks - Coil and bracket are present - Coil doesn't have aging cracks (shown in video)

Engine Preparation Checklist:

General engine information - When removing any fasteners or brackets thread the fasteners back in place by hand so you don't mix them up or lose them. - Drain oil and reinsert plug - Remove dipstick and set aside.

Intake Side of the engine - Remove hoses connected to the Intake manifold nipples. Except for the lines to the Fuel pressure transducer and the PCV. - Remove the Cam cover Breather hose - Remove the Throttle cable if it is attached to the throttle body - Remove the Bracket on the sub crank case which held the axel in place - Remove the lift hook and trim or bend the perpendicular portion off/out of the way, and reinstall lift hook - Check version of Fuel rail harness plug - Remove grounding strap from lift hook if present

- Remove IAC - Inspect IAC o-ring for degradation - Inspect IAC actuation by hand and lube with WD40 while checking to make sure it moves freely - Reinstall IAC onto the Intake with the o-ring in place

Flywheel/Flexplate Side of the engine - Remove the Flywheel or Flexplate - Inspect the CPS for any damage - Remove both the top and bottom shims (save the two black retaining kingstop pins which hold the bottom shim in place)

Check Crankshaft endplay This is one of the best barometers for the overall health of the engine. Use a Dial indicator (mounted to a magnetic arm, or any other way you’d like) - Before mounting the dial indicator to the engine block, push the crank towards the flywheel side of the engine, this can be done by smacking the center of the pulley with a rubber mallet. - Mount the dial to the flywheel side of the engine block so that the dial indicator can accurately measure the in and out motion of the crank. - Zero out the dial indicator - Use (2) large screwdrivers or pry bar, and carefully pull the crank pulley outward, to pull the crank in the opposite direction you just smacked it. - The dial indicator will measure how far the crank has moved, this is the crank endplay. - Do the above steps several times to ensure a good measurement, but be sure to remove the Dial indicator from the crank during smacking. - You want to see the Crank endplay less than .009" anything larger indicates a problem, but don't panic, just let us know. - Report crank endplay to Bostig via the ticket system.

Exhaust Side of the engine - Remove stock Heat shield if present (set aside for later use if you did not purchase the MC heat shield option) - Remove Catalytic converter (if present) - Remove Bracket which held Catalytic converter to the Sub crank case - Remove the extra small bracket attached to the power steering bracket if present - Remove the EGR system which starts on the exhaust side and routes around the flywheel side of the engine to the Intake side. (save the two bolts which hold the EGR in place on the intake side of the engine)

Flush the engine coolant passages - Remove the thermostat housing from the engine by removing the 3 bolts holding it to the head, you will flush through the opening, replace afterwards - Use a garden hose with a rag around it to flush water through the coolant passages/block to remove any rust/sediment. (water will leave the water pump so be prepared to catch or be able to let it drain onto the floor) - If you have access to a sump pump, or other pump with a higher flow rate these can be used as well, and will have better results.

- Take pictures of engine for reference

DONT THROW ANYTHING AWAY UNTIL VAN IS IN THE ENGINE AND RUNNING.

Variation in quantities for automatic SK-A Partslist transmissions will be presented with “AT” next

to them.

x 1 x 1 (x 0 AT) x 1 x 6 x 1 6061 Billet Aluminum Adapter plate Single piece billet steel balanced Crankshaft position sensor cup. Flywheel to crankshaft bolts Flywheel hold tool, or bolt that heavy duty Flywheel Same cup is used for both auto happens to function as one perfectly. and manual, but autos have supplemental install steps.

x 1 x 1 (x 0 AT) x 3 (x 2 AT) x 12 x 3 (x 2 AT)

Inspection plug for the hole in the Starter bolt, socket cap M10 x 1.5 x M10 mild steel nut. These are M10 Stainless Washer Bellhousing to adapter plate stud lower engine shim, some engines 120mm. always mild steel to prevent M10x1.5x 100mm have them already, if so, use the galling on the stainless studs. factory plug.

x 2 x 2 x 1 (x 2 AT) x 2 x 1 M10x1.5x55mm M10x1.5x35mm M10x1.5x45mm M10x1.5x50mm Lower Engine shim.

TP x 0 (x 2 AT) x 1 x 1 (x 0 AT) x 0 (x 1AT) x 0 (x 3AT)

M6 Washer Upper shim. Remove knock-out if Pilot bearing that supports the Flex plate for autos. M8x25mm Class 8.8 Bolts you have the twin starter option. transmission input shaft (~SAE Grade 5) Used to Join the purchased from RockAuto. Flex plate and Torque Converter.

TP x – Third Party, not shipped by Bostig

SK-A Instructions

Tools and materials(not included):  8mm allen  Sockets – 17mm / 18mm  Scotch Brite Pad  Ratchet   Torque Wrench Brake Cleaner  Red Threadlock  Soft faced hammer or mallet   T45 Torx RTV  OEM Sachs Clutch Kit

The Gist:  SK-A is the Adapter plate and flywheel/driveplate

 If you have an Automatic Trans pay special attention to the noted differences throughout the instructions.

Preparation: 1. Read the entire set of instructions before beginning to do any work, and be familiar with the parts in the technical overview in the appendix. 2. Unpack SK-A and compare it with the partslist in the Appendix. 3. If you have an Auto trans, drill out the transmission mount hole opposite the starter to 3/8" to allow a bolt to pass through instead of the stud used by the manual. (see illustration below, 1 o'clock position closest to the lip if looking at the side of adapter plate that mates with trans) 4. Before installing the SK-A, take a few minutes to clean the face mating of the Zetec. If it is a manual setup be sure to pay special attention to removing any rust on the crank snout and the hole in the center of the crankshaft where the pilot bearing will sit. A Scotch-brite pad and some spray brake cleaner will clean this up nicely.

Installation:

1. Replace the crankshaft position sensor cup with the one provided in the kit (fig 1 and Table 1). Be sure to replace this part now, as you will not be able to access it once the flywheel/flexplate has been installed. If you have an automatic, make sure to follow the additional procedure for the extra washers needed for the crank position sensor included with the kit. These instructions are in the templates section of the appendix. Be sure to use Red Threadlock and Torque to 15 ft-lbs.

2. Remove the factory lower engine shim. Do this by using a small screwdriver to push in the center of black retaining clips. Remove the clips and the stock lower shim, replacing it with the new lower shim provided in your kit. Be sure to remove any plastic shims or anything that will keep the new lower shim from sitting flush against the sub crank case.

3. Replace the clips and push the centers of the clips back into place. Insert the black plastic inspection plug into the hole in the lower right section of the lower engine shim from the engine side it may not catch all the way around the hole due to the sub-crankcase, just make sure it is in place and snug (fig 1 and Table 1). This will be removed/reinstalled during install of the torque converter if you have an automatic transmission.

4. Remove the stock upper engine shim if you have not already, and install the provided Bostig Upper shim in its place. If you have a brand new engine you’ll need to install the upper engine shim as it doesn’t come from the factory with one. (Fig 1. Shows an OEM Ford shim)

5. Inspect the Locating pins on the Zetec. If you have a brand new engine, you’ll need to install the locating pins, as they did not come from the factory with them. These pins help locate the adapter plate which in turn centers the transmission bellhousing to the engine.

6. Align the two locating pins on the Zetec with the locating pin holes on the adapter plate. This will be a very tight fit, so use a soft faced hammer or rubber mallet to tap the adapter plate flush with the shims on the face of the engine block. You may want to use the mounting bolts threaded in by hand to hold the adapter plate up while you tap it into place.

7. Once the adapter plate has been aligned and flushed up, make a mark along the bottom face of the cast aluminum sub-crankcase(using the adapter plate or the lower shim as a guide) with a scribe or a 1 marker. Carefully trim this section of the aluminum sub-crankcase (hacksaw/sawzall) to increase ground clearance and allow for fitment of the cradle and optional skidplating. The two bolt holes that are lost are not used.

8. Install the adapter plate bolts and studs as shown (fig 2-4 and Table 1). Red threadlock should be used 12 on these fasteners. The two 50mm bolts at the top thread through from the transmission side of the adapter plate into the engine block. The remaining bolts thread into the adapter plate from the engine side. Torque the M10 bolts to 45-50ft/lbs. The 3 transmission mounting studs (2 for autos) should thread into the transmission side of the adapter plate until they just make contact with the dust shield on the engine block, or are flush with the back of the adapter kit. Make sure no bolts will interfere with the transmission/protrude. If they do, they may need extra washers or trimming (manufacturing variance on the bolts can cause this)

9. Note For Autos: Autos should only have two studs in the lower two stud positions, and an additional 45mm M10 bolt that comes in from the engine side on the driver’s side to grab the transmission. The head of this bolts is what occupies the hole in the upper shim. Do not remove the knockout port, as this is used for conversions using the dual starter option.

10. If you are a manual or syncro, prep the crankshaft of the zetec for install of the pilot bearing that supports the transmission input shaft. Using a scrotchbrite or similar abrasive, clean the crank snout and center hole. Identify the rubber seal on the inside of the pilot bearing. This seal must be toward the transmission, and not flipped the other way. Once you have the seal oriented correctly, carefully position the pilot bearing on the crank snout. It must be held centered and square. It often helps to find a deep socket that closely matches the outside diameter of the bearing, and using masking tape, join the two and hold the deep socket. It makes it easier to position square on the crank snout hole, and lessens the risk of damaging the bearing while tapping it into place. Start tapping the bearing into the crank, once you are confident that it is square, continue tapping until the bearing is flush with the crank snout.

Figure 2 Figure 3

Table 1

1) Crank position sensor cup 5) M10x55mm bolt and M10 Washer 9) Transmission Mounting studs 2) Black plastic inspection plug 6) M10x45mm bolt and M10 Washer 10) Starter Bolt and M10 Washers 3) M10x50mm bolts and M10 Washers 7) M10x55mm bolt and M10 Washer 11) M10 locknuts and M10 Washers 4) M10x35mm bolt and M10 Washer 8) M10x35mm bolt and M10 Washer

11. Remove the roll pins from your old waterboxer flywheel. The roll pins are used to position the pressure plate on the flywheel, and must be transferred to the new bostig flywheel. Before you remove them, make note of the height they protrude from the old flywheel, you will want to install them to the same height. Soak the area down with WD-40 and let them sit, then come back with vise grips. Set tension high enough to grab the pins, but low enough to avoid crushing them. Orient the vise grips so the gap of the roll pin is aligned with the direction of the jaws so the gap can compress when the vise grips are compressed. Compress the pin and then wiggle the vise grips back and forth while pulling upward. Make sure the roll pins are not sliding in the jaws as this will raise burrs. Once removed, re-install the pins in the new bostig flywheel. Do not bottom out the pins in the flywheel. Tap them in only as far as they were installed in the original flywheel to ensure they are tall enough to engage/position the pressure plate.

12. Note for Autos: Perform the Torque Converter/Flexplate preparation for fitment procedure found in the Appendix prior to proceeding.

13. Install the Bostig flywheel or flexplate. The crank bolt holes appear to be symmetrical, but they are not. There is an index hole that sets the relationship between the timing marks and the crankshaft. Identify which hole is the index hole by sight(preferable) or by installing the plate and slowly rotating it until all the holes are aligned. Once it is aligned, install the crank bolts finger tight. If they all start easily by hand, you’re in the correct orientation. Next in a cross- ways pattern start tightening the crank bolts. Do not install them with air tools. Slowly tighten all the crank bolts until they are snug. If you have a manual or syncro, install the bolt that is used as a crank position locking tool against the top transmission stud and the ring gear. You can then torque the crank bolts in a star pattern to 83 ft/lbs. Autos can use a screwdriver to lock the flexplate in place Figure 4 through one of the three torque converter mounting bolt holes and the engine. Do not brace the screwdriver against the crank position sensor or a dust cover, it will break or bend.

14. Install the clutch friction disk and centering tool. Then install the pressure plate onto the roll pins that you transferred to the Bostig flywheel. SLOWLY walk the pressure plate onto the flywheel by turning the pressure plate bolts(which can be reused from the old flywheel) in a cross-ways pattern so the pressure plate is drawn onto the flywheel as squarely as possible. Once all the bolts are snug, torque them to 18ft/lbs. Thread lock is not suggested for the pressure plate bolts. Remove the clutch disk centering tool, and the flywheel hold tool. Hold onto the throwout bearing from the clutch kit for install as soon as the transmission is pulled off the old engine.

15. Install three M10 washers and nuts onto the studs(two if you are an auto) so they don’t get lost during the rest of the engine dressing.

16. Install the two remaining M10 washers on the blue socket cap starter bolt provided (if you are not an auto) or onto the original starter bolt if you have an automatic.

SK-C Partslist

UPG UPG UPG x 1 x 1 x 1 x 2 x 1 6061 Billet Aluminum Thermostat 6061 Billet aluminum thermostat ¾” NPT brass hose barb. Outlet that 1/8” NPT elbow. Connects the 3/8" NPT temp sensor. On housing outlet. gets hooked to the heater core overflow bottle to the t-stat Rockauto order list. Not as Shown. lines. Always flows, not controlled housing. Connects the Bleeder Will have a spade terminal by t-stat. thermostat outlet to the fill tower. connection or a plug with a pigtail.

UPG UPG x 1 x 3 x 4 x 1 x 1

#32 Stainless Steel hose clamp used T-stat housing to head bolts. M8- T-stat outlet to housing bolts. Used Thermostat Fill Tower Bracket, 6061 Machined Aluminum Fill to hold Fill tower to Bracket 80mm SHCS used to hold to hold Thermostat outlet to bolted to engine wall. Holds fill Tower intercepts the coolant line to Thermostat housing to Engine Thermostat housing. tower. the water pump.

x 1 x 1 x 1 x 8 x 1 M6x20 Stainless Steel bolt used to M6x20 Stainless Steel locknut used 1/4" Over flow bottle and 1/4-20 Thread cutting sheet metal Coolant over flow bottle bracket mount the coolant over flow bottle to mount the coolant over flow thermostat breather hose. screw. For attaching brackets. to the bracket. bottle to the bracket.

x 1TP x 1TP x 1TP x 1TP x 1TP

180 degree thermostat from Rock Thermostat housing gasket from Thermostat O-Ring from Ford, Is Coolant level sensor installed into Thermostat housing cap. This is a Auto, with the new rubber gasket Ford, goes between the engine installed onto the 180 deg the thermostat housing to drive radiator cap used to seal off the installed from Ford. head and the thermostat housing. thermostat as pictured to the left. the level warning light in dash. coolant system on the top of the thermostat housing.

xTP – Third Party, not shipped by Bostig xUPG – Upgrade, sold separately not required

SK-C Instructions

Tools and materials(not included):   Sockets – 10mm / 13mm / 14mm T25 Torx  Scotch Brite Pad  1 – 1/16”(27mm) wrench or adjustable wrench  Red Threadlock  Torque Wrench   3/16” allen bit or wrench Loctite® #518 Gasket Eliminator  1/8” drill bit

Preparation:

1. Read the entire set of instructions before beginning to do any work, and be familiar with the parts in the parts list found in the appendix.

2. Be prepared to drill an 1/8” hole in the replacement thermostat if it is not present out of the box. 3. There will be (1) m6 nut, washer, and m6x20mm bolt left over along with (8) thread screws, the coolant over flow bottle bracket, the Fill tower assembly and 5’ of ¼ hose. Set them aside for now as they will be installed once the engine is in place .

The Gist:  If you purchased the Thermostat Upgrade, start at Step 1. If you will be using the stock plastic thermostat housing skip to step 8.

 Hoses and other connections will be hooked up later.

Thermostat Upgrade Installation: (Skip to next section if you are using stock t-stat housing) 1. Remove the old plastic thermostat housing from the engine. Three M8 bolts with 10mm heads bolt it to the head.

2. If your new thermostat did not come with a bleed hole, drill one into the middle of the exposed area of the t-stat so that the rubber gasket will not occlude it when installed (about ¼” from the outer edge of the t-stat).

3. Next decide if you are going to setup the cooling system with the bypass or not. Bypass allows the engine to heat up quicker. If you are in a warmer climate, it may not be necessary, and not using the coolant bypass eliminates 4 connection points, simplifying the system.

4. Coat either the Provided nipple or plug , as well as the bypass port with Loctite® #518 Gasket Eliminator or equivalent See Diagram on the next page.

5. Use a vice to slowly press the provided nipple or plug completely into the port.

6. Press the Pin into the bottom of the thermostat housing to lock the nipple or plug into place. Leave about 1/8" sticking out so that you can remove it at a later date if need be.

7. Install the Thermostat housing gasket into the groove on the new housing, and press into place with your thumbs. You may need WD40, to help massage the gasket into place.

8. Inspect the sealing surface on the back of the head to make sure it is clean and smooth. Install the new t-stat housing onto the head with the M8x80 SHCS Torque to no more than 18ft/lbs.

Figure 3 9. Install 3/8" NPT Sensor temp sending unit into the recessed portion of the housing. Use an anaerobic thread sealer.

10. Install the new t-stat gasket onto the new 180 degree t-stat, and install the t-stat into the new housing with the drilled bleeder hole to the top (12 o’clock position).

11. Install the new outlet into the new housing with the (4) M6 bolts, and threadlocker. Snug them down by hand, do not over tighten!

A) Thermostat Housing E) Thermostat Outlet Bolts

B) Thermostat F) Thermostat Housing Gasket

C) Thermostat rubber Oring Gasket G) Temp Gauge sender (rockauto order list)

D) Thermostat Outlet H) Thermostat Housing the engine bolts

Stock Thermostat Housing Installation: (Follow these instructions if you are re-using the stock Ford Housing)

12. Remove the old plastic thermostat housing from the engine. Three M8 bolts with 10mm heads bolt it to the head. Once it is removed from the engine, remove the rubber o-ring that sealed the housing to the head. Check Plastic Gasket groove for any wear, and clean it of any debris.

13. Remove the outlet from the t-stat housing. Three screws with torx heads hold the outlet to the t-stat housing (Set aside). Once the outlet is off, remove the thermostat itself. If your new thermostat did not come with a bleed hole, drill one into the middle of the exposed area of the t-stat so that the rubber gasket will not occlude it when installed (about ¼” from the outer edge of the t-stat).

14. Install the o-ring from the old housing into the groove on the new housing, and press into place with your thumbs. Make sure the gasket groove is free from crusty build-up/damage.

15. Inspect the sealing surface on the back of the head to make sure it is clean and smooth. Install the t-stat housing onto the head with the M8-90mm bolts and washers. Torque to no more than 18ft/lbs.

16. Install the Oring Gasket onto the new 180 degree t-stat, and install the t-stat into the housing with the drilled bleeder hole to the top(12 o’clock).

17. Re-install the outlet into the housing with the 3 Torx head screws. Snug them down by hand, do not over tighten!

Thermostat Fill Tower Assembly:

18. Install the ¾” brass hose barb on the new aluminum thermostat fill tower. Use an anaerobic thread sealer or red thread locker. Do not use household pipe dope or tape. The barb may not thread all the way in, this is fine.

19. Install the small Overflow nipple into the 1/8” npt threaded hole near the very top of the new thermostat fill tower. Make sure the threads of the fitting do not extend too far into the housing and prevent the radiator cap from being installed correctly(this shouldn’t happen). Use an anaerobic thread sealer or red thread lock. Do not use household pipe dope or tape. The nipple may not thread all the way in, this is fine.

A) Fill Tower Bracket F) 1/8" NPT to hose barb (Overflow) B) Fill Tower Bracket Screws G) 3/4" NPT to hose barb fitting C) Radiator Cap H) Fill tower to bracket Clamps Figure 2 D) Fill Tower I) Coolant Level Sensor E) 1/8" NPT to hose barb (Bleeder)

20. Install the other 1/8" NPT hose barb fitting into the 1/8" npt hole above the 3/4" brass hose barb. Use an anaerobic thread sealer.

21. Install the coolant level sensor into the other 1/8” npt across from the the 3/4" brass hose barb. Use an anaerobic thread sealer or blue thread lock. Do not use household pipe dope or tape. The sensor may not thread all the way in, this is fine. Only tighten until the sensor is snug by hand, the sensor is fragile and can break if over tightened.

22. Install the cap, you may have to push down harder than you expect, and rotate a half turn.

23. To ensure that the cap is holding its self down with enough force you may need to pinch down the two holding tabs on the cap. This can be done with a pair of needle nose.

24. Set aside the (1) m6 nut, washer, (1) m6x20mm, (8) thread screws, (2) #32 hose clamps, the coolant over flow bottle bracket, the Fill tower assembly, and 5’ of ¼ hose. These parts will be installed into the engine bay once the conversion is in the van. Figure 3

SK-M Partslist

x 1 x 6 x 6 x 6 Cradle center section. Designed to be backward compatible with the v2.0 M12 stainless washers. Used to M8x35mm high strength bolts. M8 stainless steel locknuts. Used to style cradle and serve as foundation for the skid plate. attach the motor mounts to the Used to attach the cradle to the attach the cradle to the frame, 3 adapter plate, and the motor frame, 3 per side. per side. mounts to the cradle.

x 2 x 4 x 2 x 2 x 2

M12 stainless locknuts. Used to M12x35mm bolts. Used to attach M8x100 stainless steel bolts. Used M8 stainless washers. Used to Motor mount shims. Used to attach the motor mounts to the the motor mounts to the adapter to mount the alternator to the mount the alternator to the properly position the engine cradle. plate. bracket. bracket. assembly. May not be needed.

TP TP x 10 x 2 x 2 x 2 x 1 M8 square washers. Used between M8 “blue” washers. Extra thick, and Fender washers which are used to Two motor mounts from Ford Alternator purchased from a the M8x35mm cradle to frame used between the locknuts and on the motor mount studs, and go which will attach and isolate the national chain, for warranty heads and the frame for extra cradle, one pair is used on the 3rd between the M12 lock nuts and the engine assembly via the adapter purposes. Could be faulty right off reinforcement. The 3rd pair of drilled bolt head side as well. cradle. plate from the cradle. the shelf so have them test at the drilled holes use “blue” auto parts store.

TP x – Third Party, not shipped by Bostig

SK-M Instructions

Tools and materials(not included):   Pliers/vise-grips Drill  11/64” and 5/16” drill bits  Red threadlock

 13mm, 17mm, 19mm sockets  19mm deep socket  17mm wrench  Torque wrench

Preparation: 1. Read the entire set of instructions before beginning to do any work, and be familiar with the parts in the partslist found in the appendix. 2. The motor mounts have small “locking tabs” stamped into the circular sheet metal mounting base that protrude and would interfere with the cradle, they should be

snapped off with pliers/vise grips or bent back before use so they can be installed correctly. 3. Remove the old engine and transmission assembly as per the instructions in the Bentley book(10.8-10.10) and our video/written supplements. (tools list for this operation can be found on the WBX removal Call sheet)

The Gist:

 Remove WBX Engine and transmission.

 The conversion engine assembly and transmission will be mated together and then installed into the van.

Installation: (Note: details not important to this sub-kit may be omitted from illustrations for simplicity)

1. Bolt the motor mounts from your rockauto order to the adapter plate using the four M12x35mm bolts. Washers are used under the heads. Again do not tighten them, just leave them snugged by hand.

2. Install the cradle onto the motor mount studs with two of the M12 locknuts, M12 washers should be used under the nuts. Do this hand tight, then back off the nuts 2-3 turns

3. Once the cradle is back sitting/bolted in place, loosen the motor mount to adapter plate m12 bolts. Remove them one at a time, apply red threadlock, and then re-install and tighten to 50-55 ft-lbs. Fig 1

4. Install the alternator onto the alternator bracket using the M8x100mm bolts with washers under their heads. The alternator has moving blocks that slide into place to form a tight connection to the bracket, these can be pressed all the way into the alternator casting with vise grips or a vise to make it easier to install the alternator. Tighten the bolts to 18 ft-lbs.

5. Moving over to the Van's engine bay we are going to drill out the holes for the exhaust muffler bracket, as it is much easier to do while the engine is out of the van. Clamp the Exhaust Bracket (found in SK-E ) to the Pinch Weld while holding the bracket into location on the van as shown. You may need two C clamps. The figure below is showing the frame rail over where the muffler will be, on the right rearmost side of the engine bay, as well as the back edge of the frame of the van. The view is from underneath the van.

6. This will allow you to mark and punch the four holes used to mount the bracket to the van. The two Fig 2 holes (a) and (b) shown in the figure in the rear frame of the van are sized to a 13/64 drill to allow for 21 the thread cutting screws. While the holes (c) and (d) are sized for clearance for an M6 bolt. You may need to mark and drill out the hole between (c) and (d) if hole (c)'s pinch weld is missing. Read SK-E section for more details on the muffler hanger setup.

7. Remove the bracket and drill out the four holes to their correct sizes. 8. Moving over to the transmission separate the old engine and transmission.

9. Clean the inner bellhousing groove with a screwdriver to clear it of grease and debris.

10. (Manual and Syncro) Inspect/replace the throwout bearing at this time. Make sure it is seated correctly as you DON’T want to pull the engine/trans again. With the transmission in gear, attach the transmission to the engine assembly. It helps to have a few people to help with this process. Be careful not to let the weight of the transmission or engine assembly rest on the stud/ bellhousing interface as it will cause the studs to bind in the bellhousing making assembly very difficult. Additionally, the transmission should be in gear to allow the rotation of both CV cups by hand(in the same direction), which in turn spins the input shaft, which must align to the splines of the clutch disk.

You could also use a ratchet and 18mm socket to rotate the engine crank a bit to get the input shaft splines to line up, as opposed to turning the cups on the trans.

(Automatic) With the original torque converter (do not install a rebuilt converter at this time, you can replace the TC seal, but re-use the original TC until you have at least 3k miles on the conversion) in place and fully engaged on the input shaft and it’s three sets of splines, mate the engine and transmission. The torque converter to flexplate/driveplate bolts will be installed after the engine Fig 1 and transmission have been fastened together, and torque converter endplay has been verified.

Check the torque converter endplay. The TC should move back and forth 3-6mm before hitting the flexplate. If endplay is sufficient, align the bolt holes by spinning the converter, and install the torque converter socket M8x25 Gr8.8 cap screws provided. Torque to 25-30 ft/lbs. Re-check the TC bolts torque after the first hundred miles.

22. Once the engine and transmission are mated, move the assembly into rough place underneath the chassis.

23. Begin by installing the front transmission mount or mounts(in the case of a syncro) onto the front crossmember (Fig 4). For 2wd vans, use the included front transmission spacer and M8x45mm bolts with washers underneath the front transmission mount. Snug the bolts, but do not tighten them all the way. (Transmission spacer and hardware can be found in your Configurations box)

24. Using a hoist or jack, bring the engine assembly up into place slowly. Install two of the three M8x35mm cradle to frame bolts into the existing holes with the square washer on the top side of the frame rails and the head on the top side so the threaded portion of the bolt is hanging down.(Fig 5) Install the thick blue washers Fig 2 under the locknuts on the cradle side.

25. Once 4 bolts are in place and have nuts on them(but still loose) make sure your CV joints can be moved into the proper position. Between the side to side adjustments of the cradle to frame, motor mount to cradle, and front transmission mount, get the CVs held in place with a few bolts started by hand.(Fig 6)

26. Using a jack, (or engine hoist) life the engine/trans/cradle assembly up so no weight is hanging on the cradle to frame fasteners and tighten the 4 cradle to frame bolts to 35-40 ft/lbs(if you torque them while the assembly is suspended on the bolts you won’t get the correct torque). Drill the two holes into the frame for the 3rd cradle to frame bolts on each side through the slot in the cradle toward the middle of the van(this will lock the cradle adjustment from side to side) Fig 3 using a 5/16” drill bit. The third holes will be inside the frame rails. Install the bolts and square washers(first group) or blue washers through the large access holes in the side of the frame and tighten the Fig 4 nuts with blue washer under them. (Fig 7)

27. Tighten the front transmission mount bolts to 30-35ft/lbs.

Height Adjustment:

28. Installation heights vary from install to install, and the height of the install will change over time as the motor mounts settle. For this reason we've added adjustability.

29. Measure the max distance between the front cam gear cover and the rear decklid lip, the distance should be around 5/8” or less.

30. If it is greater than 5/8" the engine assembly is lower than it should be. Add the provided shims underneath the motor mounts and check clearance again.

Fig 5

Variation in quantities for automatic SK-E Partslist transmissions will be presented with “AT” next to them.

TP x 1 x 1 x 1 x 3 x 3 Main exhaust. The shortest, Exhaust clamp shim. Stainless steel Rockauto Order list. Manifold to M10 x37 mild steel studs. Thread M10 flanged locknut to allow for a simplest exhaust ever. Stainless cat, shim, bent into a slight bend, and main exhaust gasket. Inserted into into the main exhaust, and used to 15mm socket. Used on the 3 main flex, welds, and bend. slipped under the clamp/hanger to the groove in the flange. attach the main exhaust to the exhaust studs. allow proper fitment. exhaust manifold.

x 3 x 2 x 2 x 1 x 2

M10 Nord-lock washers. These heat Muffler hanger 1 This is the taller of Muffler hanger 2 This is the shorter Muffler Bracket. This will be Muffler hanger Clamp. Longer than and vibration proof lock washers the two hangers. These will be of the two hangers. These will be attached to the van, and will hold pictured, these hangers will encircle are the ultimate for exhaust attached to the Muffler and grab attached to the Muffler and grab two of the rubber hangers. the muffler, slipping through the applications. Used under the M10 the rubber hangers. the rubber hangers. slots in the hangers to hold the nuts. muffler to the hangers.

x 8 x 8 x 8 x 2 x 4 M6x20 Bolts. Used to secure the M6 Lock Nuts. Used to secure the M6 washers. Used to secure the 1/4"-20x1" Thread Cutting Poly Isolators used to hang Exhaust bracket to the Van, as well Exhaust bracket to the Van, as well Exhaust bracket to the Van, as well Screw used to mount the the muffler. Held down by as the rubber isolators to the Van. as the rubber isolators to the Van as the rubber isolators to the Van. Exhaust Bracket to the van the (4) clamps. and bracket.

Oxygen sensor Walker Muffler No picture No picture

TP TP x 4 x 1 x 1

Clamps used to Hold the Rubber Oxygen sensor purchased from Muffler Purchased from RockAuto, Isolators to the Exhaust Bracket. Rock Auto. Is installed into the installed after the main exhaust Exhaust at the Catalytic converter bend pointing towards the rear of bung. the van.

TP x – Third Party, not shipped by Bostig

SK-E Instructions

Tools and materials(not included):  Hacksaw / cut-off wheel /sawzall  3/8” wrench  Anti-seize  9/16” wrench  Torque-wrench  8mm socket/wrench  Large screwdriver/deburring tool/knife  15mm socket, 17mm deep socket  Masking tape  6”+ extension

Preparation: 1. Read the entire set of instructions before beginning to do any work, and be familiar with the parts in the partslist found in the appendix.

The Gist:

 The main exhaust gets installed with its gasket in place with 3 fasteners

 The muffler needs to be prepped before install  The combination of exhaust-side hangers and a chassis-side bracket complete the muffler install

Installation: (Note: details not important to this sub-kit may be omitted from illustrations for simplicity) 1. Install the three M10 studs into the main exhaust flange by hand(shorter threads into the flange)

2. Install the manifold to main exhaust gasket (circular) into the groove on the main exhaust flange.

3. Install the main exhaust up into the exhaust manifold flange so the studs protrude through the flange.

4. Install the three nord-lock locking washers onto the studs, and install the two front M10 nuts by hand.

5. Using masking tape to hold the nut from falling out, but without occluding the threads, tape the third M10 nut into the end of the 17mm deep socket. Then using an extension, install the nut on the rear exhaust stud.

6. To prep the muffler, hold the clamp/hanger assembly over the inlet end of the muffler so that roughly ¼” of the clamp band is hanging off the end of the muffler inlet. Mark the opposite edge of the clamp band on the muffler inlet with a marker.

7. Mark two lines from the outermost edge of the muffler inlet straight down to the depth of the previous marks made with the clamp. The marks should be lined up with the long sides of the muffler can(in other words side to side instead of top/bottom in the orientation the muffler is used in)

8. Using a hacksaw or cut-off wheel, cut two slots roughly 3/16” wide along second set of marks up to the first set. Do not cut too far, or you will have an exhaust leak in front of the exhaust clamp. The slots have to be wide enough to compress when the clamp is installed to hold it tight to the exhaust tube that slips into it.

9. Debur the slots to prevent them from catching or making install difficult.

10. Install the oxygen sensor into the main exhaust with anti-seize. Torque to 18-20Ft-lbs.

11. Move over to the Van in order to install the Exhaust Bracket.

1) M10 nuts

2) Nordlock washers

3) Exhaust Manifold

4) M10x37 Stud

5) Exhaust Gasket

6) Catalytic Converter

7) Oxygen Sensor Port

Figure 1

12. Install the bracket by loosely installing the two m6 bolts by hand, and then install the two 1/4"-20 x 1" thread cutting screws #2. Then go back and tighten the two M6 Bolts #1. Figure 2 Figure 2

13. Next make and drill out (4) holes along the horizontal pinch weld of the frame rail. The distances are off of the back wall of the frame, and are for Clearance for M6 bolts. See the figure 2 Bottom view for reference.

Figure 3 Figure 2 Bottom View

14. Install each of the (4) rubber isolators onto the Frame rail and bracket using the M6 nuts, bolts, and washers. Two are installed on top of the bracket, and two are installed under the frame rail in the (4) holes you just drilled. Figure 4.

15. Slip the exhaust clamp onto the main exhaust bend.

16. Slip an exhaust hanger into each of the (4) rubber isolators. The two longer hangers go into the isolators on the bracket. The (4) hangers should hang down to about the same height. You may need WD-40 to help lubricate the hangers. See figure 4.

17. Install the muffler so that the main exhaust slides in far enough to completely block the slots you cut.

18. Position the clamp so that it covers the cut slots in the muffler, and the T-bolt is still Figure 4 accessible for tightening.

19. Bend the exhaust clamp shim into a similar rounded shape that roughly matches the bend of the clamp. Figure 5

20. Slip the shim between the clamp and the muffler inlet on the bottom side of the clamp, opposite the pinch bolt.

21. Snug down the pinch bolt some, but do not tighten fully.

22. Slip the large Muffler Clamps around the muffler and through each set of hangers, front and rear. Position the worm gear assembly so that it can be easily reached and tightened. The easiest position is to slip the hose clamp through the hangers from the engine bay side and have the worm gear coming around the bottom of the muffler and meeting up on the passenger side of the muffler. Figure 5 is an example of what the setup would look like without the muffler in place for visual purposes

23. Tighten the band clamp/hanger assembly pinch bolt to 45 ft-lbs.

24. Tighten the two large muffler clamps holding the muffler to the hangers, it should

pull up slightly on the muffler. Figure 6. Figure 6

25. Before installation of the MCHS or Stock Ford heatshield, check for exhaust leaks by feel in the post install section. So set it aside or be prepared to remove it again.

SK-I Partslist

No picture

x 1 x 2 x 3 Rubber Intake elbow, installed to face the Smooth edge fuel hose clamps. For use on #52 Hose clamps. All high grade 316 front of the van and mate with the intake the fuel inlet nipple and fuel pressure stainless construction, these clamps hose. (no picture) regulator hose connections, this type of connect the intake tube to the clamp helps prevent cutting of the hose with smooth rounded edges. Damaged throttle body on one side, and the fuel hoses burn vans! mass air meter on the other.

TP x 1 x 1 x 1 x 2

Silicone breather hose. Connects the cam Rockauto order list. Fuel pressure Large Vac nipple. To block off the large Small Vac nipples. To block off the two cover breather to the breather inlet regulator. From a 98 Ford Contour, this topmost plastic nipple on the intake. lower smaller plastic nipples on the nipple on the rub intake tube. Just rotate fuel pressure regular keeps the fuel Install with a little bit of RTV and a ziptie intake. Install with a little bit of RTV and a the intake tube breather to face the cam system of the conversion a return based and they won’t ever come off. ziptie and they won’t ever come off. cover. No clamps required once installed. system like the stock engine. Simpler, more reliable, and less wires/computer controls.

x 1 x 2’ x 1 x 1 x 4 Fuel rail inlet. Uses a commonly Nylon loom. Used to protect fuel Rubber intake tube. Not only ducts Brake booster rubber vacuum line. #10 hose clamp used for the brake available fuel injector o-ring for lines from chaffing anywhere they intake air from the mass air booster setup. sealing, this inlet nipple attaches to might make contact with the meter/airbox, but also helps the rail toward the front of the van chassis etc. Cut and use as you see decrease intake noise, which is the opposite of the regulator. Lube the fit. #2 source of noise on most engines. o-ring for install, and be careful, The breather nipple connects to the ripped o-rings don’t seal, and leaky cam cover breather for recycling of fuel systems burn vans! crankcase gases.

High Pressure Fuel Mass Airflow Meter Line and AirBox No picture No picture

x 1 x 1

Nylon Line used for the brake EGR Block off. Fuel line purchased from local Connects onto the end of the intake booster setup. Is inserted into the supplier. Connects the fuel tank, hose, and tucks behind the intake manifold. (Comes straight, fuel pump, and fuel rail on the passenger side tail light after can be bent with hairdrier) zetec, for return fuel setup. modifications to the air box.

TP x – Third Party, not shipped by Bostig

SK-I Instructions

Tools and materials(not included):   Pliers/vise-grips Torque wrench

 Red threadlock  T30 Torx bit  8mm,13mm, 17mm, 19mm sockets  RTV



Preparation: 1. Read the entire set of instructions before beginning to do any work, and be familiar with the parts in the partslist found in the appendix.

2. Prep the Rubber intake elbow (cobrahead) using the cut template (contact us if you do not have one)

The Gist:

 The intake elbow gets modified then installed  The intake hose gets installed

 The fuel system gets installed

Installation: (Note: details not important to this sub-kit may be omitted from illustrations for simplicity)

1. Install the three rubber nipples onto the Intake. Use a little rubber cement or RTV and a zip tie and they will never come off. If they're broken you will need to plastic weld them shut. See the air box mod video for more information on plastic welding.

2. Install the prepped/cut intake elbow (see cut template for details) using a #52 hose clamp between the throttle body and the elbow the elbow inlet should face the front of the van. Be careful not over tighten the hose clamp as you could crack the plastic throttle body.

EGR Block off

3. Remove the two screws you hand threaded into the EGR port when you previously removed the EGR system.

4. Apply a small bead of rtv around the EGR port, and install the EGR Block off with the two screws with loctite. (you want to make sure that the bent tab on the EGR block off is pointing towards the ground .

5. If you have an Automatic use this tab to hose clamp down the dipstick with a #10 Hose clamp. The hose clamp will be in the Sk-configurations box.

Intake Hose

6. Using the 3" coupler, attached the intake hose to the intake elbow using #52 hose clamps. Do not tighten clamps yet.

7. Before tightening the clamps completely, position the intake hose so the aluminum breather assembly nipple faces the black breather nipple coming off the valve cover on the engine. Place the silicone breather tube between the aluminum nipple on the intake hose and the black nipple on the valve cover. Trim breather tube to proper length if necessary. Hose clamps not needed.

8. Tighten #52 hose clamps on intake hose/elbow,

9. Route the intake hose along the rear lip of the engine compartment so that it will not interfere with any moving parts. General routing would be under the coil, under the thermostat and around the outside of the engine bay to the passenger side tail light area.

10. Follow the Airbox Mod Video on the website prior to installing the Airbox assembly into the van. Be sure to soak the 4 air box screws with PB blaster prior to disassembly.

11. Slide a #52 hose clamp over the open end of the intake hose and push the hose onto the mass airflow meter, which will be attached to the airbox. Tighten #52 hose clamp onto the mass airflow meter, be careful not over tighten the hose clamp as you could crack the plastic mass airflow meter.

12. Secure the intake hose to the firewall of the van with zip ties to prevent any unnecessary movement.

Fuel Rail

13. Bostig strongly recommends replacing all fuel lines in the van with 5/16" (or 8mm if available) high pressure fuel injection hose. For a complete fuel line replacement 2WD vans will require approximately 16-18 feet, Syncros will require approximately 8-10 feet depending on year and model. DO NOT use the stock plastic fitting on the firewall when reinstalling your fuel lines. It is a well known source of failure and is not well suited for proper routing to the Zetec fuel rail.

14. Using an 8mm socket remove the brass block off plate from the flywheel side of the Zetec fuel rail. (towards the front of the van) and replace it with the aluminum barbed nipple supplied with the kit. Use a lubricant such as wd-40 on the oring of the barbed nipple and the fuel rail its self prior to insertion. Using a rolling/rocking motion lightly push it into the fuel rail. This is to avoid cutting the oring, and shouldn't require too much force.

15. Re-insert and the two original bolts, and tighten them with the 8mm socket.

16. Remove the Stock plastic Fuel rail inlet from the pulley side of the engine (towards the rear of the van. You will need to unplug the three pin plug and leave it there hanging (it is no longer used) and remove the vacuum line from the plastic plug.

17. Install the fuel pressure regulator you got from rock auto, with the original hardware with the vacuum line nipple pointing upwards. This will position the hose barb for the fuel return below the frame rail pointing towards the front of the van. Refer to the picture below. Insert the Fuel Pressure regulator into the fuel rail using the same method as the new fuel inlet rail barb.

18. In order to reattach the vacuum line securely cut the vacuum line back about an inch, this is due to the fact that the old vacuum line nipple stretched out the hose too much to fit securely on the new barb.

19. Now you will attach the send and return fuel lines. Attach fuel send line to the inlet nipple (towards front of van) and the return fuel line to the fuel pressure regulator return outlet (towards the rear of the van.) Attach both lines with the smooth edge fuel hose clamps provided in your kit.

20. Be sure to protect the fuel lines from chafing using the provided split loom. Choose a routing path that will avoid kinking and chafing points as well as sources of radiant heat. Use cable ties to reduce movement of the lines. For the Return line coming from the fuel pressure regulator zip tie it to the fuel rail as it passes below it to keep it secure.

SK- W Instructions

Tools and materials (not included):  10mm Socket  Phillips screw driver   Drill Bit Diagonal Cutters   Punch 2" hole saw (if 85 and older)

Preparation: 1. Read the entire set of instructions before beginning to do any work, and be familiar with the parts in the partslist found in the appendix. 2. Watch the Sk-W videos.

The Gist:

 The completed written instructions are not ready, but a video is available

 Wiring harness gets routed and connected  Covers other wiring related portions of the conversion

Installation: 1. Refer to the “SK-W Temporary Video” in the Support Support Sections Bostig 2010 install videos of the new WHITE background website, middle of the page. Please note your harness will differ slightly from the video.

2. Review the Wiring Chart to familiarize yourself with the connectors.

3. Note: 85 and older vans need to drill a hole as pictured below under the rear bench with a 2” holesaw. The flat portion of sheet metal is in the stamping, but isn’t drilled out from the factory. If you have westy cabinets, you may have to drill it further to the left, but as long as it’s on flat sheet metal, the grommet will seal.

4. If present, remove the two screws holding the ecu cover to the stock ECU. This is a T15torx bit.

5. If you have purchased the Chip rather than the SCT take this time to complete the Chip installation, which is in the next section. Pay special attention to the CLEANING of the J3 ECU port that the Chip installs onto.

6. Review the latest SK-W video online, and install the ECU into the bracket, bending the tabs to hold both in place.

7. Next you will install the Harness into the ECU bracket. See the video for the easiest way to insert the ECU and harness into the bracket. While you're installing the harness you will want to slip the large grey ECU connector into the ECU and tighten the bolt to secure it in place.

8. Start the routing of the wiring harness from inside the van under the seat out towards the engine bay.

9. Feed the wiring harness through the hole and then seat the large wiring grommet into the body making sure it is seated properly and not pinched or hung up at all. I

10. Take this time to watch the video to review how to mount the ECU bracket under the bench seat. This procedure will differ if your van is a westy. The installation is SK lenient as long as it is stable and 4 of the 6 screws hold it to the sheet metal or wooden cabinet of a westy.

11. Go under the van and route the main wiring harness along the existing harness on the frame rail till goes around the fire wall and enters the black box in the engine bay.

12. There are three branches of the harness at this point. One branch of the Zetec harness goes into the black box. One branch of the main harness with the purple plug on it will get routed along the side of the engine bay going towards the back of the van then rounding the corner along the back of the van then connecting up to the engine fuel rail harness. The other long branch of the main Zetec wiring harness has 3 clips incorporated into it that get clipped into 3 square holes that run along the top edge of the fire wall running over to the passenger side.

If you haven’t already there will be white plastic clips in these to be wiring mounting holes. The clips used to mount the water boxers coolant air bleed ring. That ring goes away and so do the clips. To remove the clips there is a pin in the center of the clip that gets pushed out then the clip can be easily removed. Once the clips

have been removed then the wiring harness clips can be inserted.

The final plug on this leg of the harness is gets connected to the MAF which is mounted into the air box which will be behind the passenger side tail light.

13. There are two separate larger gauge wires that came in SK-W box. The thinner 8 gauge wire goes from the starter post to the power post in the black box, and the thicker 6 gauge wire goes from the starter post to the alternator post.

-ECU Cover -Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Wire -Large Grey ECU Plug (Check engine light) -Oil level sensor pigtail (ONLY FOR HIGH CAPACITY PAN UPGRADE it is a small grey wire with a black connector, not for stock pan)

-Large Wiring Grommet -Fuel Pump wires

- Red- The Post in the black box (constant power) - Blue- Field wire -Fuel Rail harness Connector

- Yellow - Switch power - Large white round plug...

-Alternator connector

(if you have an 83-84 van the subharness attaches here) I

-Post on the alternator - -Black wire is ground on the body of the van.

-Speed Sensor Connector -Yellow with red stripe - Coolant Temp Sender -Blue with green stripe - Coolant Level Sender -Coil connector -Noise suppression connector (found on coil bracket)

-White plug and blue plug - O2 sensor connector -Mass Air Flow connector (MAF) -Grey wire- High Capacity Oil level sensor (not used with stock pan) -Black plug - Crank position sensor

-Round white plug- On main wiring harness (this is connecting the zetec sensors up to the vans sensors and displays up front) -Green- Tach inside black box (if you have a tach wire) -Black/blue- corresponding connection in black box, wire colors should match up (this is for the oil pressure switch) -Red/yellow-Blue/green- corresponding connection in black box, wire colors should match up (this is for the coolant level and temp sensors)

Alternator Battery Pin Color Function End 3A 10A 3A 15 15 Junction box (black, driver side firewall)

- + POST 12v+

Fuse Block relays in ECU box ALT 1 BU/RD D+ Output CHG Relay 85 White round 7-way connector MIL ALT 2 empty empty empty Pin Color Function End Charge relay Ignition relay Ignition switch ALT 3 RD Field ALT POST 1 BU/BK Oil Pressure Sw PURP G Fuel pump relay 2 YE/RD Coolant Temp t-stat

End Fuel

Data Link Connector j-box 1 ALT S54 GND S54 End Pump 3 BU/GN Coolant Level t-stat End Pin Color Function End

Computer Data Lines System BU 15 DLC 10 BU Computer Data Lines System PCM 15 7 BN Ground Jumper 7w-4

Color Color Computer Data Lines System GY 16 BU BU/RD GN BK GN DLC 13 OR DLC PCM 13 Color RD YE BK GN RD (Duplex)RD GY/RD GN TN RD Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) twisted pair WH 21

DLC 16 RD Power IN (FUSED 3A) FUSE BLK 30 85 86 87 Pin 30 85 86 87 87a Pin

30 85 86 87 Color Function End Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) twisted pair BN 22 Pin IGN Relay YE IGN trigger GROUND (splice S53) BK 24 85 GROUND (splice S53) BK 25 Relay output Ignition Coil (IGN) OR 26 CHG Relay BU to Charge 87 M ass Airflow Sensor (M AF)- M AF signal TN 36 Light Engine Coolant Temp Sensor (ECT) GN/WH 38 M ass AirFlow Sensor (M AF)-IAT Sig VT 39 Fuel Pump M onitor GY/RD 40

Aftermarket Tach lead BN/BU 48 Crank position sensor

GROUND (splice S53) BK 51 I Pin Clr Function End - Ignition Coil (IGN) L-GN 52 CKP 1 WH CKP signal PCM 21

BATT power IN (FUSED 10A) RD 55 CKP 2 BN CKP signal PCM 22 Knock Sensor Signal (KS) L-BU 57 SK Output Speed Sensor (OSS)-signal BU/WH 58 MAF Heated Oxygen Sensor 1 (HO2S1) WH 60 RETURN (splice S63) BN 64 Pin Color Function End IGN 12V (splice S54) GN 71 S63 MAF 1 VT IAT signal PCM 39 Fuel Injector # 3 (FI-3) BU 74 MAF 2 GN IGN 12V S54 Fuel Injector # 1 (FI-1) VT 75 MAF 3 BK GROUND S53 GROUND (splice S53) BK 76

MAF 4 TN MAF signal PCM 36 GROUND (splice S53) BK 77 MAF 5 L-BU MAF signal PCM 88 Fuel Pump Trigger - TN 80 MAF 6 BN RETURN S63 Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) GY/BK 83 Camshaft Position Sensor (CM P) YE 85 Ignition Coil M ass AirFlow Sensor (M AF)-M AF signal L-BU 88 Pin Color Function End Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)-signal WH 89 IGN coil IGN 1 OR PCM 26 TPS & FPT (splice S59) YE/RD 90 trigger RETURN (splice S63) BN 91 IGN 2 GN IGN 12V S54 Heated Oxygen Sensor 1 (HO2S1) YE 93 IGN coil IGN 3 L-GN PCM 52 IGN 12V (splice S54) GN 97 trigger

Fuel Injector # 4 (FI-4) OR 100 Noise suppressor Fuel Injector # 2 (FI-2) PK 101 Color Function End GROUND (splice S53) BK 103 mount tab ground S53 GN (14) IGN 12V S54 PURPS PURPR PURPP PURPN PURPM PURPL PURPK PURPJ PURPH PURPG PURPF PURPE PURPD PURPC PURPB PURPA

Pin Oxygen Sensor 16 Way Injector Pin Clr Function End Speed Sensor Pin Color Function End harness HO2S A BN RETURN S63 OR BN WH H GN/W empty BU PK VT L-BU BU/BK K GY/B GN BN YE/RD BN YE Color OSS 1 BK GND S53 connector HO2S B WH signal PCM 60 OSS 2 BU/WH SIG PCM 58 HO2S C YE htr control PCM 93 OSS 3 GN IGN 12V S54

HO2S D GN IGN 12V S54

Alternator Battery Pin Color Function End 3A 10A 3A 15 15 Junction box (black, driver side firewall) - + POST 12v+ Fuse Block relays in ECU box ALT 1 BU/RD D+ Output CHG Relay 85 White round 7-way connector MIL ALT 2 empty empty empty Pin Color Function End Charge relay Ignition relay Ignition switch ALT 3 RD Field ALT POST 1 BU/BK Oil Pressure Sw PURP G Fuel pump relay 2 YE/RD Coolant Temp t-stat

End Fuel

Data Link Connector j-box 1 ALT S54 GND S54 End Pump 3 BU/GN Coolant Level t-stat End Pin Color Function End

ECU BLK FUSE j-box GROUND S54 S54 EXTERNAL 40PCM S54 80PCM BLK FUSE 4 BN Ground Jumper 7w-7 F unct io n C o lo r Pin DLC 2 GY Computer Data Lines System PCM 16 Temp Coolant 5 BN/BU Tach lead PCM 48 M IL LED TN 2 DLC 4 BK GROUND GROUND F unct io n + - sender level Function Charge Light Charge Alternator D+ Output (fused 12V IGN 3A)separately GROUND (fused 12V IGN 3A)separately 12vtoFuel Pump FuelPump Monitor 12VIGN FuelPump Trigger- PowerIN 15A) (FUSED DLC OR 13 DLC 5 BK GROUND GROUND Function switch 6 empty empty empty Power IN PowerIN ( F U SED triggerIGN GROUND 12VIGN Computer Data Lines System BU 15 DLC 10 BU Computer Data Lines System PCM 15 7 BN Ground Jumper 7w-4 Color Color Computer Data Lines System GY 16 BU BU/RD GN BK GN DLC 13 OR DLC PCM 13 Color RD YE BK GN RD (Duplex)RD GY/RD GN TN RD Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) twisted pair WH 21

DLC 16 RD Power IN (FUSED 3A) FUSE BLK 30 85 86 87 Pin 30 85 86 87 87a Pin

Ignition Coil (IGN) L-GN 52 CKP 1 WH CKP signal PCM 21

BATT power IN (FUSED 10A) RD 55 CKP 2 BN CKP signal PCM 22 Knock Sensor Signal (KS) L-BU 57 Output Speed Sensor (OSS)-signal BU/WH 58 MAF Heated Oxygen Sensor 1 (HO2S1) WH 60 RETURN (splice S63) BN 64 Pin Color Function End IGN 12V (splice S54) GN 71 S63 MAF 1 VT IAT signal PCM 39 Fuel Injector # 3 (FI-3) BU 74 MAF 2 GN IGN 12V S54 Fuel Injector # 1 (FI-1) VT 75 MAF 3 BK GROUND S53 GROUND (splice S53) BK 76 MAF 4 TN MAF signal PCM 36 GROUND (splice S53) BK 77 MAF 5 L-BU MAF signal PCM 88 Fuel Pump Trigger - TN 80 MAF 6 BN RETURN S63 Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) GY/BK 83 Camshaft Position Sensor (CM P) YE 85 Ignition Coil M ass AirFlow Sensor (M AF)-M AF signal L-BU 88 Pin Color Function End Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)-signal WH 89 IGN coil IGN 1 OR PCM 26 TPS & FPT (splice S59) YE/RD 90 trigger RETURN (splice S63) BN 91 IGN 2 GN IGN 12V S54 Heated Oxygen Sensor 1 (HO2S1) YE 93 IGN coil IGN 3 L-GN PCM 52 IGN 12V (splice S54) GN 97 trigger Fuel Injector # 4 (FI-4) OR 100 Noise suppressor Fuel Injector # 2 (FI-2) PK 101 Color Function End GROUND (splice S53) BK 103 mount tab ground S53 GN (14) IGN 12V S54 PURPS PURPR PURPP PURPN PURPM PURPL PURPK PURPJ PURPH PURPG PURPF PURPE PURPD PURPC PURPB PURPA

HO2S D GN IGN 12V S54

ECU Chip Installation

Tools and materials(not included):

 T15 Torx bit

 Standard screw driver  Scotchbrite pad  Paper towel  Alcohol or toluene

Preparation: 1. Read the entire set of instructions before beginning to do any work, and be familiar with the parts in the parts list.

The Gist:  ECU must be surgically clean before the chip is installed

 Chip and ECU can be damaged if this is not done properly  Chip comes with the tune preinstalled, you will not need to flash it or the ECU

Installation: 1. Using the T15 Torx bit remove the two screws holding the ECU cover to the ECU, and remove the cover.

2. Using a standard screwdriver pop the J3 Port cover off of the ECU. The port can be found opposite of the large grey plug.

3. There may be a clear coating over the port connection, or even a paste covering the connection in a variation of colors. (pink being my favorite)

4. Clear off the coating with a non-metallic scraper or fingernail.

5. Clean both sides of the connector with a Scotchbrite pad, (don't use sandpaper...) and don't be too rough

6. Clean once more with a paper towel and alcohol or toluene.

7. Gently push the Chip onto J3 adapter. Rock it back and forth onto the plug.

8. Make sure it is pushed all the way back onto J3 connector.

Figures 1 & 2 Figure 6

MIL light Installation 49

Preparation: 1. Read the entire set of instructions before beginning to do any work, and be familiar with the parts in the parts list.

The Gist:  The Mil Wire runs from the Engine compartment to front of van  Location to mount the MIL light must be chosen  MIL needs fused constant power on the positive leg, the ECU switches ground on the negative

Installation overview: 1. MIL wire install (Malfunction Indicator Lamp/Light also Check engine light) - Long tan wire.

2. A MIL wire is provided to allow a light to indicator trouble codes to be installed in the dashboard. We suggest using the provided amber incandescent 12v panel indicator lamp. Using a 12v LED you may find it glows dimly constantly.

3. Pick a location in the dash where the light will be visible in your peripheral vision should it illuminate. The MIL is important, and unlike driving an old POS buick presidential, you’ll want to know if there is a Diagnostic Trouble Code(DTC) as soon as the ECU wants to tell you by illuminating the MIL.

4. The tan wire will hook up to one side of the light, the other side should be connected to constant power under the dash as shown in the schematic to the right.

5. To get Fused power connect to Constant power at the fuse panel. Please review the provided supplement as this procedure varies depending on the year of your van and fuse panel.

Tachometer Resistor Modification

Introduction: The ECU signal from the Bostig conversion works seamlessly with the stock Vanagon tachometer from 1984-1985. Beginning in model year 1986, a simple resistor modification must be carried out in order to use the stock tachometer. This is delicate work, but should be well within the capabilities of any Bostig installer.

This procedure should ONLY be completed if you have not purchased the Tach signal converter option. The Tach signal converter keeps the end user from having to do this procedure. In other words do not do both the Below Tachometer Resistor Modification AND install a Tach Signal converter. It will cause the Tachometer to function improperly.

Preparation: 1. Read the entire set of instructions before beginning to do any work.

The Gist:  The Tachometer gets removed from the Instrument cluster.  Two Tach Components get removed/replaced.  Soldering is required

Installation overview: The best way to access the tachometer is to remove the entire instrument cluster from the dash of the van.

1. Remove the negative battery cable before beginning.

2. Remove the instrument panel cover by grasping the indentations on the rear corners of the cluster (near the windshield) and pull upward. Once the cover releases, pivot it back toward the steering wheel and then lift it off the dash and set it aside. There may be a translucent plastic cover over the top of the cluster. Remove this as well and set aside.

3. Remove the four screws holding the corners of the instrument cluster and set them aside.

4. Remove the Seat Belt / Brake Warning Assembly, Headlight Switch Assembly, Rear Defroster Switch Assembly, Hazard Light Switch Assembly and Fog Light Switch Assembly by depressing the locking tabs on each side and pulling thru the cluster.

5. If the van has cruise control, remove the two pin connector.

6. Carefully pull upward slightly on the rear of the cluster and detach the speedometer cable. 7. Remove the 14 Pin Flat connector from lower edge of the instrument cluster.

8. Carefully lift the cluster up and toward you being careful to watch for any wires that may still be attached. Once the cluster is free, remove it from the van to a clean workplace.

Once the instrument cluster is out of the van and onto a clean and stable workplace you can begin to remove the tachometer gauge from the cluster.

1. Remove the blue instrument cluster foil from the rear of the tachometer by removing all of the brass nuts and washers as well as the silver Phillips machine screw.

2. Remove the black plastic connector from the back of the tachometer housing. This may be a bit tricky, some wiggling and gentle prying will usually do the trick.

3. Remove the four screws that hold the tachometer gauge to the instrument cluster housing.

4. Remove the black connector from the 14 Pin connector and set aside.

5. Gently lift the blue instrument cluster foil away from the tachometer gauge, then remove the tachometer gauge assembly and set it safely aside.

6. Separate the tachometer from the Temp/Gas Gauges by gently wiggling and pulling them apart. Once separated, set the Temp/Gas Gauges aside.

7. Remove the two small screws in the face of the tachometer, then flip the unit over and remove the two slotted screws on the back of the unit to allow the tachometer to be pulled away from the mounting panel.

8. The tachometer needle is delicate, be careful to avoid breaking or bending the needle during the remaining steps. If the needle does not line up with the zero position after completing the modification it can be repositioned by gently turning it counter-clockwise.

9. Expose the back panel of the tachometer circuit board and remove the specified resistors. The best method to remove the resistors is to desolder them from the circuit board. If you have never done this before there are good instructions available online as well as some decent videos on www.youtube.com (search for “desolder”).

Desoldering is basically heating the old solder points on the end of the specified resistors and then pulling these resistors back thru the circuit board. A standard electric soldering gun and a set of needle nose pliers will work well for this process. A desoldering vacuum pump or desoldering braid may also help to do a neat job and is available at any electronic supply store for less than ten dollars.

10. The 3.32K Ohm resistor can be removed via the desoldering process or simply by clipping the ends of the resistor wires off. This resistor will not be replaced, so the method used to remove it is unimportant.

11. The 1K Ohm resistor over the hole in the circuit board should be desoldered and removed intact. Once this is done, install the 220K Ohm resistor provided in the Bostig kit into the same space and resolder it into the circuit board.

12. Once the 220K Ohm resistor is installed, the tachometer can be reassembled. Reinstallation of the gauges into the instrument cluster is simply the reverse of the above listed steps.

SK-In Partslist

x 1 x 1 x 1 x 1 x 1 Loom 1" x2 feet long Loom 2" x2 feet long Throttle cable pin adapter. Decklid Heat Shield Decklid Heat Shield insulation

x 2 x 1 x 3 x 1 x 6

Decklid HS retainer wire 3/4" Heater hose x7 feet long #10 Stainless steel hose clamp #12 Stainless steel hose clamp #24 Stainless steel hose clamp

Configuration Box Partslist

These are the Parts found in a Manual 2WD Van's configuration box.

x 2 x 1 x 1 x 1 Speed Sensor Ring Half. Speed Sensor Bracket. M6 Stainless Steel Locknut. M6x20 Stainless Steel Bolt.

x 1 Throttle Cable assembly. (Differs in appearance from picture)

Configuration Box Partslist

These are the Parts found in an Automatic Van's configuration box.

x 1 x 9 x 1 x 2 x 1 Brass coolant restrictor which is #10 Stainless Steel Hose Clamp. 3/4" Heater Hose. Speed Sensor Ring Half. Speed Sensor Bracket. inserted into the cooling line.

x 2 x 2 x 1 x 1 x 1

M6x20 stainless steel bolt used to M6x20 stainless steel locknut used Throttle Cable Assembly. May be Auto Trans Kickdown lever bracket Auto Trans Throttle cable standoff. attach speed sensor bracket, and to attach speed sensor bracket, and different than pictured. 2010 Throttle cable stand off. throttle cable stand off.

x 1 x 1 x 1 x 4 x 4 M10 x 20mm stainless bolt, used to M10 Stainless Steel washer. Auto Transmission Spacer M8x60 Stainless Steel bolts used to M8 Stainless Steel washer. attach the Auto transmission kick mount the transmission spacer. down bracket.

x 2 M6 Stainless steel washer used to attach throttle cable standoff

Configuration Box Partslist

These are the Parts found in a Syncro Van's configuration box.

x 2 x 1 x 1 x 1 Speed Sensor Ring Half. Speed Sensor Bracket. M6 Stainless Steel Locknut. M6x20 Stainless Steel Bolt.

x 1 Throttle Cable assembly. (Image may differ from actual)

Configuration Box Partslist

These are the Parts found in every Van's configuration box.

If your van has power steering:

x 1 x 2 x 1 x 4 x 4 Power Steering reservoir bracket #14 Stainless Steel 3/4" Long Sheet 1/4" NPT Block off plug. M8 Stainless steel washer M8x60 stainless steel bolts metal screws

x 2 x 2 x 2

#12 Stainless Steel Hose Clamp. 16x20 Crush Washer. Alfagoma Power Steering Return hose.

If your van does not have power steering:

x 1 x 4 x 4 Power Steering Idler pulley M8x25 Bolt used to attach M8 stainless steel washer assembly. the power steering idler used to attach the power pulley assembly. steering idler pulley assembly.

Additional required parts Parts sourced from Rock Auto and other suppliers needed for SK-IN

Various gates Hoses Coolant Recovery Speed Sensor Serpentine Belt Power Steering Pump and T connections Tank No picture No picture No picture No picture

No picture

TP TP TP TP x 1 x 1 x 2 x 1 Coolant tank, that is connected to Speed sensor from Rock Auto that is Serpentine or accessories belt that If you have power steering on your These parts purchased from Rock the thermostat housing via the 90 mounted off of the Transmission varies if you are installing an AC van, this is the pump you've auto are the shaped gates hoses, deg fitting near the cap. This is the and reads the speed rings attached compressor on your engine. We list sourced from a salvage yard, via the and T-connections if an auto, and bottle that the radiator cap will to the CV. Varies between two since you should carry a spare! power steering pump call sheet. will vary depending on your van. breath into and out of. It is not Auto'and Manual transmissions. pressurized.

TP x – Third Party, not shipped by Bostig

SK-In Instructions

Overview: The SK-IN instructions cover the final subsystems to be connected/installed. Each section will use a variety of parts from both the SK-IN and Configuration boxes. The Configurations box contents varies from van to van, depending on if you are an Automatic, 2wd, or syncro.

The sections which are covered by SK-IN include:

1. Cooling hose hookup and fill instructions 2. Power Steering Connections and fill instructions 3. Speed Sensor Installation 4. Brake Booster Installation 5. Throttle Cable installation instructions 6. Decklid Heat shield instructions 7. Serpentine belt installation / Type 8. Motor Oil Change/fill

SK-In Cooling Hookup

Tools and materials(not included):   11/64” and 1/8" drill bits Hammer  Center Punch  3/8” socket or nutdriver   Ratchet Sharpie   Channel Lock Pliers or Vise Grips Tape Measure   Standard Screwdriver Drill

Preparation: 1. Read the entire set of instructions before beginning to do any work, and be familiar with the parts in the parts list.

The Gist:

 Coolant hoses get prepped according to the hose tutorial video before install  Coolant hoses should be long, and must be trimmed during final install for best fitment  Templates can be found in the on the website if needed

 Use water for first fill up and runs.

Installation: (Note: details not important to this sub-kit may be omitted from illustrations for simplicity)

1. Coolant Hose Installation a. The Hose installation varies from van to van depending on transmission and year. So be sure to watch the hose cutting tutorial video on the website. b. The Video does not cover the Heater core hookup. For this you will use the 3/4" heater hose line and supplied in the SK-IN kit. c. The hose as shown in the diagram is cut and used in three locations. (see diagrams) d. Run the 3/4" hose from the Thermostat housing and the heater core send line, and cut it with 3-4" to extra length, to ensure you will have enough when installing, and use the other portion of the hose you just cut to go between the Black Tee and the Heater core Return line. e. The #12 hose clamp is for the 3/4" connection to the black Tee, while the other (3) #10 hose clamps go on the remaining connections described. f. If you have an Auto, you will be installing the two Dorman Tee's as seen in the diagram. These will go to the trans cooler, an additional 4' section of 3/4" hose and #10 hose clamps have been provided for this purpose. These can be found in the Configurations box. g. Swap the send and return coolant lines in the front of the van going to the radiator. Swap the two hoses at their connection to the original rigid cooling lines (plastic or metal that run the length of the van) not at the radiator. This is to correct the flow direction of coolant through the radiator.

2. Overflow bottle mounting a. Drill the bottom nipple on the overflow bottle (1/8” bit should work fine), the nipple comes from the factory closed. b. Attach the overflow bottle to the bracket with the M6x20mm bolt and Locknut into the lower bolthole. c. With the upper bolt holes aligned between the bottle and bracket, position the bottle and bracket so the middle of the fill cap is 6” to the right of the driver side deck lid leftmost edge(the sheet metal lip) (Fig.1) and the bracket that touches the bottom of the rear upper crossmember is flush. d. Mark the holes with a sharpie for the upper two holes for the bracket. e. Mark the holes with a sharpie for the two holes on the bottom of the crossmember f. Remove bottle/bracket and drill the four holes with an 11/64” drill. g. Install the bottle/bracket with four Thread Cutting sheet metal screws. h. Route but do not attach the ¼” overflow rubber hose from the 1/8" NPT hose barb fitting on the t-stat fill tower once the fill tower and bracket are mounted to the passenger side firewall. Cut the excess off to use for the connection between the thermostat breather and the fill tower. i. Install the spring clamps 2-3” down on each end of the overflow hose and install the hose onto the t-stat fill tower nipple, and the overflow bottle nipple. j. Install the clamps over the hose/nipple on each side by compressing, sliding, and releasing with pliers. k. Finalize install by securing the overflow hose with zip ties to prevent movement/chaffing. Once Completed Bottle and bracket will look like similar to the Figure 2.

Figure 1 Figure 2

3. Coolant hose install – reference diagrams below and Hose prep video in 2010 video section. There is an option to choose between before you begin. If you will be using the bypass from the thermostat please use the "with bypass" routing images.

4. If you are going to be using the bypass, it will vary the location of the Fill tower. If you are using the bypass you will need to cut hose 22288 and put the fill tower in line with it. If you are not putting the fill tower on the end of 22288 and not using the black tee.

5. Install the Fill tower using the bracket, (4) thread cutting screws, and two hose clamps to the side of the engine bay wall.

6. Swap the Rubber hoses that go between the Radiator and the Main cooling lines (plastic or steel or aftermarket.) Swap them on at the main cooling line connections. One of them may be too short, see the diagram later in this section.

7. Connect the Breather port on top of the thermostat outlet, to the open 1/8" npt hose bar connection on the fill tower above the 3/4" connection. Use the extra 1/4" hose from the overflow bottle connection.

NOTE: For best operation of the cooling system the rear or front heater core should be left at least slightly open at all times. This allows faster operation of the t-stat by allowing constant bypass through the heater core.

8. Coolant fill procedure (use water only for first start/run) a. Open the bleeder screw on the radiator. b. Fill at the T-stat housing, keep filling until it won’t take anymore, complete filling may take 10-15 minutes and be slow. c. Make sure front and rear heater cores are both fully open. d. Make sure the water pump inlet line is full before attempting to start the van, the pump can push, but cannot pull. e. To help in priming the pump, push the hose going to the water pump down low to help force air out of the line. f. Install cap, and close bleeder. Do not start the van with the cap off the T-stat housing or bleeder open. g. Start the van and run for 30 seconds, then stop and check the level (only if t-stat housing is still cold which it should be). h. Squeezing the pump inlet lines successively with the t-stat housing cap off can help “burp” the lines and get more coolant in. (be careful of coolant overflow/splash while doing this). i. Close system again. Start the engine. j. Ensure the heater cores are pushing warm air within a minute or two of starting/running the engine. k. Using the SCT to datalog will allow you to see the cylinder head temps during first warm up, in case of a problem. Temps should never exceed 220 at idle or 245 while driving if everything is functioning correctly. Damage can begin above 280. l. Once the radiator begins to get warm/hot after 10-15 minutes, open bleeder at front until water comes out or no more air is moving. The system will then pull coolant from the overflow as it cools, so make sure it has water/coolant in it. The system typically needs 3-4 bleed cycles to be fully bled. m. Once you have logged the idle run and been given the ok for a drive log. Drain the water from the system and refill with coolant. 50/50 mix is recommended for winter, 30/70(30 coolant/70 water) for summer. Repeat the procedure for filling/bleeding with coolant mix.

SK-In Power Steering

Tools and materials(not included):  Center Punch  3/8” socket or nut driver   Ratchet Sharpie   Channel Lock Pliers or Vise Grips Tape Measure  Drill  Standard Screwdriver   Hammer 11/64" (or 3/16") Drill Bit

 Reuse stock banjo bolt and high pressure send lines

Preparation: 1. Read the entire set of instructions before beginning to do any work, and be familiar with the parts in the partslist.

The Gist:  Reuse the Stock banjo bolt and high pressure send lines

 Keep hoses away from the exhaust system

Installation :

Power Steering Reservoir Bracket/Power Steering: 1. Using a Sharpie, make a mark 10.5” to the passenger side of the engine bay from the center of the tailgate latch pin. This will serve as the alignment mark for the center of the red cap on the power steering reservoir.

2. Place the power steering reservoir into the aluminum bracket and position the bracket/reservoir assembly so that the center of the red cap is below your mark on the horizontal axis, and the top of the cap is just below the level of the rubber gasket on the engine bay on the vertical axis.

3. Mark the location of the two holes in the bracket, center punch and drill with an 11/64” bit.

4. Place the reservoir back into the bracket and install the bracket with the provided #14 screws. Torque to 65in/lbs.

5. On the Vanagon power steering pressure line, remove the pressure sender, and plug the hole using the provided hex nut/plug.

6. If you haven't already, install the Power steering pump onto the engine with the (4) M8x60 bolts and washers (with red thread lock)

7. Connect the Vanagon power steering pressure line to the bottom of the Zetec pump as it would be installed on the stock pump, making sure to use the new crush washers provided in the kit to prevent leaking. Carefully orient the pressure line so that it clears the Power Steering pump pulley. The Power steering pressure nipple on the Zetec pump can be rotated with channel lock pliers for better routing of the pressure line.

8. Attach the provided return hose (Alfa Goma) to the bottom nipple of the reservoir, and to the return port of the zetec power steering pump using the supplied #12 hose clamps

9. This reinforced hose will need to be trimmed to length with a hack saw or angle grinder to achieve proper routing. Be sure to clean out any bits of rubber and steel left over after trimming to avoid damage to the power steering system.

10. Route the hose in a gentle loop (away from the exhaust system) to avoid putting too much stress on the bottom nipple of the PS reservoir. The metal pipe attached to the banjo bolt should face upward away from the exhaust. (See next page)

11. Refill the Power Steering system with ATF Dexron II or equivalent.

Speed Sensor/Ring Instructions

Tools and materials(not included):  Pliers/vise-grips  10, 13 mm socket

 Assorted small metal picks (dentist picks)  13mm wrench  Necessary tool to remove the CV’s (E8 triple square or 6mm Allen)

Preparation:

1. Watch the related instruction video before beginning to do any work, and be familiar with the parts in the partslist found in the appendix.

The Gist:

 Speed rings replace CV bridge washers

 Positioning of the sensor is very sensitive, and cannot be off more than 1/16"  Van will stall coming to a stop if not installed correctly

Installation: 1. The Video supplement covers the bullet points above.

2. It will start by covering the Manual transmission setup, which takes place on the Driver side of the transmission.

3. It will either finish with or have a secondary portion of video for the automatic transmission setup, which takes place on the Passenger side of the transmission.

Brake Booster line Instructions

Tools and materials(not included):  5/16 Nut Driver  Hose Cutters

Preparation:

1. Watch the related instruction video before beginning to do any work, and be familiar with the parts in the partslist found in the appendix.

The Gist:  The old check valve is reused  A good seal is crucial at the manifold inlet to prevent a vacuum leak.

Installation: 1. The stock Vanagon brake booster check valve will be reused. On 2WD vans you must remove the check valve and then pull the hard nylon brake booster vacuum line

thru the firewall, then run it along the frame rail. On Syncros this is already near the stock location.

2. The brake booster check valve only flows in one direction, so be sure to make note of the installation direction. The vacuum for the brake booster will be supplied by the intake manifold, so the direction of flow must be toward the rear of the van, as indicated by an arrow cast into the check valve.

3. Install the rubber brake booster couplers on each side of the stock check valve with 2 #10 hose clamps.

4. Push the check valve onto the black nylon vacuum line supplied in the kit and install a #10 hose clamp to hold it in place.

5. Push the check valve and nylon line assembly into the brake booster inlet (red locking fitting) then give it a tug to be sure that the fitting is holding it tight.

6. Trim the stock vacuum line to length and push it into the open end of the brake booster coupler.

Decklid HS Instructions

Tools and materials(not included):  Pliers/vise-grips

 Paint Marker  Wire Cutters

Preparation: 1. Read the entire set of instructions before beginning to do any work, and be familiar with the parts in the partslist.

The Gist:

 Heatshield has two parts, aluminum and ceramic.  Heatshield is positioned in reference to grid pattern of foam.

 The cutout in the Heatshield is for the Oil fill cap. Ensure it is not touching the heatshield when the deck lid is installed or it will cause vibrations.

Installation: (Note: details not important to this sub-kit may be omitted from illustrations for simplicity)

1. Orient the deck-lid upside down (foam facing up) with the turnable locks facing away from you and the fixed tabs facing toward you.

2. Align the aluminum heat shield to the right side of the deck-lid so four rows of squares in the foam remain visible. Mark the six fastener locations on the aluminum heat shield onto the deck-lid foam using a paint marker or a sharpie and set the aluminum heat shield aside.

3. Cut the aluminum welding rod into 6 inch sections and make a 90 degree bend in each section about 1" from the end.

4. Holding the short bend as a handle, pierce the deck-lid foam (working from the center of the heat shield area outward) and slide the rods until the 1" bend is all that is left showing. Twisting the rods as they slide through the foam may help with insertion. There is a reinforcing mesh inside the foam that will help to hold the rods securely in place.

5. Repeat for the remaining five rods.

6. Center the ceramic fabric heat shield evenly over the rods and press down to pierce the fabric. Align the aluminum heat shield over the rods and lower over the ceramic fabric.

7. Using needle nose pliers bend each of the rods outward over the aluminum heat shield into a "D" shape and poke the end down into the deck-lid foam. This will safely secure the heat shield in place and protect the deck-lid from high temps from the exhaust manifold.

Step 4-5

Step 6

Step 7

Throttle Cable

Tools and materials(not included):  10mm and 1/2" wrench  Pair of pliers or vise (if installing the cable end adapter)

 Sockets 8mm, 10mm, and 1/2" (19mm to lower spare tire)

Preparation:

1. Read the entire set of instructions before beginning to do any work, and be familiar with the parts in the partslist.

The Gist:

 Parts of old housing are reused  Style of cable end vary  Cables are different for Auto's and Manuals

1. The throttle cable adapter allows the use of one style of throttle cable for both styles of Zetec throttle bodies. If your throttle body looks like the picture to the right (barrel style), you do not need to use the adapter. If it does not look like the one below, read on.

You will need to install the throttle cable adapter on the end of your throttle cable by pressing it onto the throttle cable barrel. A pair of pliers or vise can be used, make sure to allow for the protruding end to exit the adapter when pushing it into place(a small socket works well). Insert the barrel of the throttle cable into the side of the adapter with the channel for the cable. Also make sure the throttle cable is bottomed in its channel so it is properly centered on the adapter.

Fig 1. Fig 2. Fig 3. Before install Installed correctly Installed incorrectly

2. Starting in the Engine bay attach the throttle cable to the bracket, you will be connecting the end of the cable that has the barrel on it to bracket. Remove the first locknut on the throttle cable stud with the 1/2" wrench.

3. Depending on if you have a barrel or pin style will determine which of the two holes you will mount your throttle cable through. If you have a pin style you will route the your cable stud through the hole that is on the small tabbed section that sticks out from the bracket. If you have a Barrel style you will use the hole on the right, which is not on the tabbed raised portion of the bracket. If you have a barrel style you may not have a tabbed and raised portion of the bracket. In this case you are using the hole furthest along the slot.

4. If you have the barrel end on the cable pull open the throttle body and insert the barrel into the throttle body and route the cable along the slot in the bracket.

5. If you have the Pin style adapter install it onto the pin connection on the throttle body, and spray it with some WD-40.

6. Route the cable down through the engine bay, along the bottom of the van. Stay on the driver's side while you do so. If you are a 2wd VAN. DO NOT route the cable through the gas tank. This will make the cable too tight. Route the cable alongside the driver's side frame rail, up into the small hole against the floor. It is a bit tricky to route it through here but it will go through.

7. Drop the Spare tire in order to get at the Pedal assembly.

8. The Installation from this point is similar to stock. Remove the small white housing from the bracket under the van and either remove the white housing from the van or ziptie it out of the way.

9. On the bracket there are two arms with holes that the white tube went through. Check to make sure it is the case, but the cable should reach the rear most arm without adding too much strain to the cable.

10. Bend the forward most arm up against the van, you may have to beat it flat with a hammer in order to route the wire properly to the pin connection.

11. Remove the outer locknut, on the throttle cable stud, and use it to secure the throttle cable through the Non-bent bracket arm.

12. Install the translucent nylon tubing over the stud and wire , using it to sheath the wire between the black pedal boot, and stud end on the throttle cable.

13. Reinstall the pin into the pedal assembly and reinstall the black boot over the pedal assembly, adjusting the nylon housing between the stud and the black housing, this prevents water from entering the cable housing and freezing during the winter. 14. Test pedal feel for smooth pull, if it feels too "gritty" or is not smooth, check both ends of the cable and ensure the cable is leaving without rubbing too much against the inside of the stud as it leaves the cable. Adjust, by bending the brackets both front and back slightly to help the cable from rubbing the cable housing.

Throttle Cable

Automatic Transmission notes

Tools and materials(not included):

 4mm allen head driver or key  17mm socket  3/8", 7/16" sockets

Preparation:

1. Read the entire set of instructions before beginning to do any work, and be familiar with the parts in the partslist found in the Appendix.

2. Follow the Throttle Cable instructions concerning the Barrel pin style adapter if it is needed. 3. After reading through the instructions, if you're an auto watch through the supplementary Auto Trans cable installation video.

The Gist:  For the Automatic Trans Throttle cable you will use the Vanagon's Stock throttle cable between the pedal assembly and the transmission.

 You will install the new portion of the throttle cable between the zetec and transmission is installed using the supplied kickdown bracket.  The Standoff and cable in the video will vary from the image below, but the idea/setup is the same.

Serpentine Belt Routing

Tools and materials(not included):  15mm wrench

Preparation: 1. Read the entire set of instructions before beginning to do any work, and be familiar with the parts in the partslist.

2. Before installing the serpentine belt on your engine be sure to clean any rust off all of the pulleys with a wire brush or similar tool. This will prevent premature wear and will provide a longer belt life.

The Gist:

 A simple tensioner is used  Belt goes on and off in under 30 seconds  A/C and Non-A/C have different lengths If you have AC K060837  Cross referenced Brands are acceptable, for example for Gates part number K060775 at a local parts store is Dayco Part Number 5060775

Installation:

1. To install the serpentine belt, route the belt around all pulleys as shown except for the Idler pulley, and then turn the bolt on the belt tensioner (in center of pulley) clockwise while slipping the belt over the tensioner pulley.

2. While turning the bolt on the tensioner to give slack in the belt, pull the belt down onto the bottom of the idler pulley. The tensioner will automatically set the proper belt tension and needs no further adjustment. The Tensioner should still have movement in it, meaning it shouldn't be maxed out in order to have the belt on.

3. While the engine is running you may notice that the tensioner moves slightly. This is normal and is nothing to be concerned about. . 4. If it doesn't fit, don't panic! The cause is easy to find and fix. In a few cases the power steering pump has had a larger pulley on it. This will require a slightly larger belt. The larger power steering pump pulley has an OD of 5.25" If you do not have AC the belt part number from gates should be K060780. This is 5/8" longer than the K060775. Again since these come on and off so easily it is simple to try a belt or two before finding the correct one, most local auto parts stores will let you try and return belts easily. You could also replace the pulley if you would like, by getting a replacement from Ford.

5. Another consideration if you have the larger pulley is to make sure that the pulley is in line with the other pulleys. This is something you should check regardless of the pulley size. You can check if it is in line visually form underneath the van. If required you should move it back in line with the other pulleys as being off can cause the belt to wear prematurely. If you need to pull the pulley out to get it in line, a power steering pump puller tool set can be acquired as a free tool rental from most major auto parts chains like AutoZone.

6. Bostig recommends that all installers carry a spare serpentine belt in the van. If your serpentine belt breaks while you are on the road, you will no longer have alternator / water pump / power steering / air conditioning.

Zetec 2.0L DOHC Without Air Conditioning Gates Part #K060775 Tensioner Pulley Part # 38188 (Gates) Idler Pulley Part # 36200 (Gates)

Zetec 2.0L DOHC With Air Conditioning Gates Part # K060837 Tensioner Pulley Part # 38188 (Gates) Idler Pulley Part # 36200 (Gates)

SK-In Engine Oil

Preparation:

1. Read the entire set of instructions before beginning to do any work. 2. Only complete this step if you're not installing the High Capacity Oil pan option. 3. If you are Installing the High Capacity Oil pan Follow its instructions. 4. If this is a Used Engine First Drain the old Engine Oil, and change the oil filter.

The Gist:

 Oil good, oil changes good  No oil, no engine

Installation:

1. Fill with 4.0qts of 10W40 motor oil. Full Synthetic oil is recommended. 2. We chose 10W40 for longer engine life. 10W30 is acceptable. 3. After running for a few minutes check the oil level and top up as necessary 4. Total capacity should be 4.5 qts (5.8 qts w/ HC oilpan).

Cam Timing Check/Reset

Tools and materials(not included):   8,10,13,17,18mm sockets Vise Grips   5/8" socket (2) Ratchet Extensions (long)   19mm Wrench Red Threadlock   T55 Torx Bit Cam Timing tool set (OTC 6486)

Preparation: 1. Read the entire set of instructions before beginning to do any work, and watch the supplement video.

The Gist:  Proper engine function relies on proper cam timing  The Cam timing tool kit consists of a Threaded pin, and a flat bar.

 Never turn the crank or cam torx bolts while the Cam timing bar is in the slots! this could crack the cam slots.

How to check cam timing:

1. Start by removing the Spark plug wires from the spark plugs.

2. Remove the Breather hose connecting the intake extension and the cam cover breather port

3. Remove the Cam cover (10 bolts hold it down)

4. Inspect the #1 sparkplug,(rear most in the van) make sure before you remove that there are NO debris around the sparkplug, if there are vacuum out the hole, to ensure nothing will fall down into the port when you remove the sparkplug.

5. Remove the Sparkplug.

6. Insert a long extension (at least 6") down into the sparkplug port so that it rests lightly on the piston.

7. Rotate the crank clockwise using a ratchet and the extension will move up and down with the piston. Rotate the ratchet until it is at its highest position, and then rotate the crank back counter clockwise an eighth turn.

8. Down underneath the Exhaust Manifold, right next to the crank position sensor on the engine block you will find a Bolt/stud. Remove this bolt using either a 10 or 13mm socket.

9. Check to see that the cam timing pin is clean, and Insert it into the block and thread it down finger tight.

10. Slowly rotate the engine crank back clockwise until you feel it stop against the pin you inserted.

11. Cylinder 1 is now top dead center, and the extension you placed into the cylinder should be at its highest point.

12. In the end of the Cams, towards the flywheel side of the engine, you will see two slots. These should be approximately horizontal.

13. Attempt to slide the Cam timing tool bar into theses two slots. If the bar slides into these two slots easily your timing is correct! You may skip to step XXX

14. If the bar wont slide into these two slots at the same time, your timing is off, and you will need to continue on with the instructions.

How to reset cam timing: 15. The problem is in the fact that the Cams are not aligned correctly to the engine. We will fix this by loosening the cam pulleys and zeroing out the cams.

16. Remove the Torque strap from the engine, and remove it off of the donuts.

17. Remove the small black clip holding the Cylinder head temperature sensor to the cam pulley cover.

18. Remove the 4 bolts holding the Cam pulley cover, and then pull the Cam pulley cover off of the engine, through the top of the engine bay, it will be a bit of a tight fit to remove.

19. Note that the gasket on the cam pulley cover is not for liquids, and is just for dust and debris. If it is loose, or missing it is not a big deal, and you could rubber cement the gasket back into place. This is all you will need to remove in order to adjust the cam timing.

20. This grants access to the Torx bolts that hold the cam pulleys to the cams. We will loosen these in order to readjust the cams to the pulleys. The pulleys are not keyed so they will be able to rotate independently of the cams once the bolts are loosen. READ THE NEXT STEP BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT TO LOOSEN THE TORX BOLTS.

21. Be sure to remove the flat cam timing bar from the cam slots whenever you are turning the cam pulley bolts. If you do not remove the bar it could crack the cam timing slots.

22. You will need to hold the cams in place while your loosen the Torx bolts in the center of the Cam pulleys. You can do this by clamping a pair of vise grips onto the cam bracing it against the head. You will want to be sure to clamp it to an area of the cam that is not machined! It is cast and not smooth like the larger machined lobes. Do not clamp onto the machined lobes of the cam, and try to brace it against a thicker walled section of the head. This will keep the cam from rotating when you attempt to loosen the Torx bolt.

23. The Torx bit is T55, and the bolt was probably last installed in place by 80ft-lbs of torque, with loctite, and due to heat and time this bolt will be a bit of a bear to remove. You will want a T55 torx bit, a long extension, the ratchet, and maybe even another extension on the end of the ratchet handle to achieve more torque.

Loosen (don't remove) one side at a time, Exhaust and intake cams, placing the vise grips on the cam you are loosening. Again be sure the Cam timing bar is not in the cam slots.

24. Once loose, the cams will rotate independently of the engine and the cam pulleys. Turn the Crank clockwise slowly so that it rests against pin you placed inside of the engine block. The engine is now top dead center.

25. Now adjust the Cams to be zeroed out. Do this with a pair of vise grips or pliers, rotate the cams slightly so that the flat cam timing bar will slide into both slots at once. Now everything is aligned, and zeroed out, and cam timing is correct.

26. Remove the two torx bolts, but be sure NOT to remove the pulley, it will stay in place without the bolt, but be sure not to pull it out.

27. Apply red thread lock to the torx bolt and reinsert them back into place.

28. Be sure to remove the flat cam timing bar from the cam slots.

29. Just like when you loosened the two bolts, brace the cam you are tightening with vise grips against the engine head. Be sure that cam CAN'T rotate when you begin to tighten it, or the cam timing will be off again.

30. Tighten the two bolts down to 50ft-lbs.

31. Now we can button everything back up again.

32. Reinstall the cam cover, and finger tighten the 10 bolts holding the cover to the head.

33. Start from one end of the cam cover and tighten the bolts down to 2 N-m down towards the other end of the cover.

34. Return to the first bolt and torque the bolts down again in order to 7 N-m.

35. If you had to re-zero the cam timing, reinstall the Cam pulley cover, lower rear torque strap, and the black clip holding the CHT sensor to the cam pulley cover.

36. Reinstall the cam cover breather hose.

37. REMOVE THE CAM TIMING PIN YOU INSERTED INTO THE BLOCK AND REINSTALL THE BOLT THAT WAS THERE.

Post Installation

Overview of the Bostig Conversion System

Introduction: The conversion is installed in the van! Now it is time get it started up and monitor it. Your instruction path will vary depending on if you've purchased the SCT or you have the chip. SCT users will request a tune, load it onto the ECU. They will monitor the engine, while taking a log of the first few runs. These logs will be sent into us for approval through the ticket system.

Installers who have not purchased the SCT upgrade will use the Elmscan 5 and a laptop to monitor the engine themselves through the first few runs. We describe what to look for while your monitoring. They do not need to request a tune, as the Chip comes preloaded with a tune, and the wont need to install a tune onto the ECU. They've installed the chip on to the ECU and it is ready to run and log as far as the tune is concerned.

Along with performing the first run and around the block test runs, this section of the guide will cover a few procedures to perform on the engine. These extra procedures will help ensure that everything is running properly when you fire it up for the first time.

When you're running an engine for the first time, you can look at it and see if anything obvious is wrong, if it's on fire for instance, it's a pretty good bet something is wrong.

While the risk of fire is quite low if you've been following the process properly, we want all things to be as low risk as possible. That's where data collection comes in. When you see that an engine is on fire, you're collecting visual information with your eyes, and running it against a set of rules in your head, rules which determine if things appear to be functioning properly. You know what fire looks like, and you know that it's bad, and you should do something to correct it. If you also have the ability to monitor what the ECU itself sees via sensors, and know what to look for, you can also determine if there are problems or if everything is normal... for instance, the biggie we look for on the first run logs is simply Cylinder head temperature (CHT), since we want to know, not guess, if the t-stat is opening, and what the actual CHT is.

The Gist:  Explanations of the use of both the SCT and Elmscan5 tools.  Description of the First run and around the block procedures.

Preparation: 1. Before beginning any tasks in this section read the entire section of instructions before beginning to do any work. 2. Gather your Sct or Laptop/elm scan tools.

SCT Instructions

Tools and materials:  SCT X3 reflasher  Windows 7 or Windows XP Computer  Internet connection  USB cable

Preparation: 1. Read the entire set of instructions before beginning to do any work, and watch the supplement video.

The Gist:  The tune must be requested from Bostig, and installed before running.

 You must log and observe the first run coolant temps with the SCT carefully to avoid potential damage to the engine.  The first run idle log will allow Bostig to see if you can proceed to a first drive.

SCT Setup Overview: This page describes the setup/update process for the X3 series of reflashers from SCT that you've purchased with the conversion system. In addition to this page, you must also be familiar with the Maintenance specs, which also contain guidance for before start operations.

FAILURE TO PROVIDE US WITH A DATALOG OF INITIAL START/RUNNING, AND DRIVING THE VAN BEFORE OBTAINING A GO-AHEAD ON YOUR LOG RESULTS CAN DAMAGE YOUR CONVERSION AND VOID YOUR WARRANTY AND RIGHT TO SUPPORT. THIS POLICY/SCARY WARNING IS IN EFFECT TO PROTECT YOU, AND STRESS THE IMPORTANCE OF FOLLOWING THESE PROCEDURES.

There are 3 aspects of the reflasher that you need to be aware of, and that are updatable:

Tunes - run by the engine computer to control engine operation, must be requested from Bostig Datalogging Configuration File - specifies the exact values to log during datalogging, provided by Bostig Reflasher tool firmware - handles the handheld devise operation, buttons, screen, etc. You should not have to update firmware, and should only do so if SCT tech support asks you to.

Follow the steps below to get everything up and running: (DO NOT PLUG IN THE SCT DEVISE VIA USB BEFORE THE TWO PIECES OF SOFTWARE ARE INSTALLED)

1. Obtain the proper tune file and config file from us Please submit a ticket requesting your tune and config files via the ticket system.

You must add your SCT Handheld devise serial number(located on the back of the unit on the barcode label) and group number into the ticket. We will attach a CEF tune file and correct config file for use with livelink to the ticket.

The engine WILL NOT RUN CORRECTLY until you have reflashed the ECU.

2. Download the Datalogging Software LiveLink Gen II from SCT's support section http://www.sctflash.com/ Compatible with Win2k,XP,Vista,Win7 32-bit/64-bit

3. Download the tune updating software SCT Device Updater from SCT's support section http://www.sctflash.com/ How-to: Adding emailed CEF Tune files to the X3 handheld devise: http://www.sctflash.com/support/index.php?_m=knowledgebase&_a=viewarticle&kbarticleid=25&nav=0

4.Watch the video (in the 2010 video support section), then try it!

Elmscan5 Scantool

Tools and materials(not included):

 Laptop

 Copy of SCT software packages

Introduction: The Elmscan5 users don't report/send logs back to us for review, you'll simply use it as a set of digitals gauges and observe that

things are correct yourself. You will find the setup instructions to setup the elmscan5 online. You will be using the Elmscan setup to pull up a digital representation of your ECU parameters, and analyzing them based on the overview below.

Overview: The most important item to watch during first runs is temp, which might read as coolant temp but is actually cylinder head temp. Just make sure it doesn't go over 220 at idle. It should go up, then start to slowly move up and down as the t-stat opens/closes.

The other things you need to watch are the fuel trims. There is a chance that you have a chip that has a bug we just identified and the fuel trims will read artificially high by about 13% all the time, however this isn't a huge problem, and won't harm anything until we can swap chips with you.

For the two fuel trims, we are looking at the long and short trims. Short trims that remain for long periods of time get "moved" over to long trim. We are going to use the short and long term trims to spot fueling issues, vac leaks, misfires, and any cam timing problems that might exist. The most common problem to cause errors in the fuel trims is a vac leak. Unlike cam timing error, which is very rare (it indicates the belt is old and jumped a tooth). Sounds like a lot, but the only thing you need to know right now, is how to monitor your temps, watch the fuel trims and then let us know what they are.

The trims max out at plus or minus 25%. Anything over about 10% in either direction indicates further examination. If the trims drop when opening the throttle (which lowers vacuum) it can indicate a vac leak, and as I mentioned this is the most common thing you might see. The long term trims take 10-15 minutes to start moving, and are the best indicators of things like vac leak etc as they spot constant trends in fueling.

Hope this isn't too intimidating. It's easier than it sounds. Follow the setup instructions at Scantool.net for their OBDwiz software to get it going, and then use the dashboard views once connected. http://www.scantool.net/obdwiz/

Things to remember:

 You will find the setup instructions to setup the elmscan5 online.  With the elmscan5 setup, and the dashboard open on your laptop, Idle your van for approximately 20 mins.  Make sure Coolant/Cylinder head temp does not exceed 220deg F while idling  Keep an eye on your short and long term fuel trims.  Trims max out at plus or minus 25% Anything over 10% in either direction indicates a possible problem. (Call us or open a ticket)  Long term trims won't be available for 10-15 mins.

First Run Instructions

Preparation: 1. Read the entire set of instructions before beginning to do any work or starting the van up...

The Gist:  Verifying function of the cooling and fuel systems is your main objective.  If you have a Chip and Elmscan5 you will use the OBDwiz software to monitor coolant temps and Fuel trims.  If you have an SCT You will watch the Cylinder Head Temperature (CHT). The first run idle log will allow Bostig to see if you can proceed to an around the block drive.

Things to check/know Prior to First run: 1. Prior to starting, there are a few procedures to run through in order to verify things are working correctly.

Fuel system inspection 1. Turn the ignition on without starting the engine (Key on engine off)

2. While it is on the fuel pump should be run for 5 seconds then shut off and pressurizing the system.

3. Inspect all fuel lines/connections for leaks. You should cycle the key several times while you inspect the Fuel System.

Freeing injectors The most common cause for a no-start is stuck fuel injectors. Fuel injectors often get stuck when sitting in an empty fuel rail. The fuel acts like glue and sticks the injector pintle to the seat. To verify injector function and unstick them is easy:

1. Remove the black plastic fuel injector rail harness. This is most easily accomplished by starting at the rear of the van, and pulling upward on the black plastic fuel injector rail harness, one at a time and while providing an upward pull, release the injector springs by pushing them toward the injector body. You should feel the injector release as you move down the rail harness toward the front of the van, once all 4 are done, the rail will lift up and away. Do not disconnect any other part of the harness, it is not required.

2. Locate the injector contacts. Each injector has two contacts that look like little spade connectors.

3. Using a battery of 12v-16volts DC (car battery, drill battery, etc) connect one spade to positive the other to negative of the battery (polarity does not matter) tap each injector with 12v-16volts rapidly until a clicking sound is audible. DO NOT provide the injector with constant power, you are going for a Morse-code like quick tapping. Using sections of wire, or alligator clips makes this fairly easy. Be very careful not to short your tapping wires/connections together.

Cooling system 1. Make sure both heater cores are open before the first run(or the one if you only have one) and fans on

2. After setting up the SCT, the “coolant temp” or an abbreviation of it will be visible in the SCT’s screen while datalogging. You can verify this with the key on engine off before starting.

3. Watch the coolant temp numbers during the first run. If the numbers go higher than 220 at idle, something is wrong and you should shut the engine down.

4. The most common reason for going higher than 220 at idle are insufficient coolant, or a stuck thermostat.

5. Verify heat from the heater core/cores. If you have heat coming from the heater cores while running, you have coolant circulating.

6. Squeeze the water pump inlet hose to be sure there is no air trapped in it.

7. The coolant temps should go up to anywhere from 180-212 or so, and then come back down as the thermostat opens and allows cool coolant into the head. It will then cycle slowly as long as it’s idling. This is what we want, we want to see temps cycle up and down slowly over minutes.

Logging/Monitoring notes 1. On-devise datalogging on the SCT is limited to around 10 minutes.

2. The Elmscan5 monitoring was touched upon in the previous section.

3. We are looking to verify thermostat function, charging function, and initial fuel trims.

4. SCT users will submit the idle log to Bostig via the ticket system for analysis.

First run: 1. It's here! the moment we've all been waiting for. Key on engine off, start up the elmscan software or begin a log with the SCT

2. Start it up.

3. Initially watch CHT via the SCT or elmscan dashboard, watching for the thermostat to open as previously described. Depending on your group CHT might show up on your SCT labeled as "ECT."

4. Let it get up to temp while idling, after the thermostat opens and the temperatures drop end the log, or

5. If you have the elmscan5 watch the fuel trims as described in the elmscan5 directions.

6. Shut it down and submit the Log if you have an SCT to await approval for the around the block drive, or

7. If you have an elmscan5 and everything looks ok (as described in the elmscan5 section) you can move to the around the block drive.

Around the Block

Preparation: 1. Read the entire set of instructions before beginning to do any work. (well it's more fun than work really...)

Around the Block steps: 1. On the next drive log, warm it up fully for 10-15 minutes watching the coolant values you want it to go up to 212 or so(or lower) and then go back down(which is the t-stat opening),

2. Take the time while it is warming up to check for exhaust leaks around the exhaust with a wet hand feeling for puffs of air. Be careful not to touch any of the components as they are HOT.

3. Reinstall your Exhaust Manifold Heat shield (either new from ford or the one you received with the salvage engine (rare)) If you are missing the Hardware as well it is simply (2) M6x20 bolts.

4. Then start logging and take it for a drive. We need 10 minutes with 2-3 30 second full stops in there(idling and not rolling). Nothing more than around 60% throttle.

5. SCT users will Log this, and Elmscan5 users will again monitor the CHT's and Fuel trims themselves.

6. After submitting the log, or doing the self check you are now complete! and providing everything checks out, you're free to enjoy the van with the conversion installed! YAY!

7. Next Check the compression.

Compression test: 1. Now that the engine is warm check the compression in each cylinder.

2. Unplug the Crank position sensor. This will keep the engine from firing the spark plugs and injecting fuel while you turn it over.

3. Pull the boot off of the First cylinder. The cylinders are numbered 1-4 starting at the rear of the van.

4. Double check to make sure no debris has fallen into the hole around the sparkplug. Vacuum any debris out of the hole if necessary.

5. Remove the spark plug, then repeat steps 3-5 for all of the cylinders to remove all of the sparkplugs.

6. Insert the compression tester. Thread it in carefully by hand without cross threading, or over tightening.

7. While someone watches the gauge, insert the key and turn the engine over. If you are unfamiliar with how long to turn the engine over hop online and google compression tests, there are plenty of resources online for this.

8. You will want to have all 4 cylinders within 10% of each other, write down each cylinders reading as you take them, and be in the range of 150-180psi If this is not the case, please give us a call or open a ticket.

For example readings of:

Everything is fine: Something is wrong: Cylinder 1 - 175psi Cylinder 1 - 180psi Cylinder 2 - 170psi Cylinder 2 - 150psi Cylinder 3 - 165psi Cylinder 3 - 175psi Cylinder 4 - 175psi Cylinder 4 - 180psi

9. When reinstalling the spark plugs, put anti-seize on each of the spark plugs, and be sure to correctly match the coil wires to the cylinders.

Voltage testing:

The starting/charging system relies on multiple circuit legs with adequate current paths, any of which can 1) At the battery (post to post) cause a problem. Problems can cause hard starting, dead batteries, or even leave you stranded if you aren't charging the battery. The paths are positive *and* the ground side of the circuit segments. 2) Battery + to chassis ground

People often neglect the ground side of the system which can lead to problems. People *also* tend to assume that if 3) Starter post to chassis ground things were ok before, they will be ok after conversion, which is incorrect. A problem may be introduced *even* if exactly the same parts/methods are used (ground strap and its stock location are a good example). 4) Starter post to its body

To verify that you have good current paths throughout the system, test voltage while running at the following locations. 5) Dist box post to chassis ground They are a mix of positive and ground points that will provide a complete picture of the starting/charging circuit path 6) Dist box post to engine ground conditions. 7) ECU positive and ground posts While engine is running, and after a quick blip of the throttle to raise rpms to 3k (which ensures that the alternator should now be charging), voltage should be 13.5-14.4 for the whole system. There should be no more than 0.1 - 0.2 volts 8) Alternator to its case difference between these points. If there is a difference report the findings to us for guidance. 9) Alternator to chassis ground

Appendix

ToolsList

Torque Specifications

Introduction: The amount of torque applied to a bolt while tightening it varies depending on the Bolt in question, the material it is going into, and what its purpose is. We often get questions regarding the torque specifications for certain steps, but for the Conversion there are very few bolts that HAVE to be torqued down to a certain specification since we're not rebuilding the engine. Below we've listed the recommended specifications for the Zetec, you won't need all of these, but they sometimes come up for other operations done to the Zetec. Specifications for the conversion it's self are found in the instructions. If you need more information, info is missing that you feel is important to include, please feel free to contact us through the ticket system. We like feedback.

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Zetec Torque Specifications:

Alternator to bracket 18 ft. lbs. Exhaust manifold studs 44 inch lbs. ToolsList

Alternator to bracket to lower cylinder block bolts 48 ft. lbs. Flywheel bolts 83 ft. lbs.

Alternator to bracket to upper cylinder block bolts 18 ft. lbs. Fuel rail 89 inch lbs.

Camshaft timing belt pulleys 50 ft. lbs. Heat shield to exhaust manifold 89 inch lbs.

Catalytic converter to exhaust manifold 35 ft. lbs. Idler pulley 17 ft. lbs.

Coolant pump 13 ft. lbs. Ignition coil (El) bracket to cylinder head 15 ft. lbs.

Coolant pump pulley 18 ft. lbs. Intake manifold bolts and nuts 13 ft. lb

Crankshaft position sensor Cup 15 ft. lbs. Intake manifold studs 44 inch lbs.

Crankshaft position sensor to Cup 71 inch lbs. Knock sensor 15 ft. lbs.

Cylinder head cover Stage 1: 2 Nm Oil pan to lower crankcase Stage 1: 6 Nm

Stage 2: 7.8 Nm Stage 2: 10 Nm

Cylinder block oil gallery blanking plugs 17 ft. lbs. Oil intake pipe to oil pump 89 inch lbs.

Drive belt idler pulley 30 ft. lbs. Oil pressure switch 20 ft. lbs.

Engine front lifting eye 35 ft. lbs. Power steering pump bracket 35 ft. lbs.

Engine oil drain plug 18 ft. lbs. Thermostat housing 15 ft. lbs.

Engine rear lifting eye 12 ft. lbs. Timing belt tensioner 18 ft. lbs.

Engine rear lifting eye studs 53 inch lbs. Upper timing belt cover 89 inch lbs.

Exhaust manifold nuts 12 ft. lbs.

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Required Tools List Explanations

Pre InstallationA torque wrench capable of going up to 83foot pounds (ft/lbs). There are also parts that require torques as little as 7 Newton meters (nm), so Torque wrench you might need to have two torque wrenches handy. However, if you were to purchase just one, go for the big one that’s capable of the bigger torques and use proper estimation rules for the lower torques such as “snug” or “tight”.

3/8’’ drive will probably be okay for most applications involved with the Bostig Kit, though 1/2’’ drive might be preferred for some of the more Sockets tightly torqued bolts. A variety of extensions in whatever size drive you end up going with will prove useful, a 3’’ most likely being the most often used followed closely by a 6’’. If you find you need one longer, a 10’’ is a popular size, but with the 3’’ and the 6’’ you can build a pretty nice 9’’ extension for no additional cost! When it comes to the sockets, you will have the options of deep well or “regular” in each of your various drive sizes, along with 12 point or 6 point sockets. As a general rule, a 6 point socket is a better socket as it leaves less possibility of potentially stripping out the head of a bolt, but since we’re dealing with all new hardware, a 12 point socket should suffice.

5/8" 1/4" 5/16" Spark 5.5mm 7mm 8mm 10mm 13mm 14mm 15mm 17mm 18mm 19mm 22mm 3/8" (or nutdriver) (or nutdriver) plug socket

You will find it handy to have the following sized nut drivers available to your use. A nut driver is really just a socket attached to a screw driver Nut Drivers handle, and sometimes 1/4" drive or 3/8" driver handles are available that will allow you to use sockets you may already have so as not to need to purchase nut drivers. Additionally, you might be able to get away with just using your extensions and sockets/ratchet, but regardless of the course you decide to pursue, you need the following sizes:

1/4" 5/16" 7mm

A scotchbrite pad or similar scouring pad can be used to remove any potential burrs from the pilot bearing bung on the crankshaft before Scouring pad installing the flywheel, they are also useful in general cleanup of the engine.

A hammer or mallet is used to install the pilot bearing and assure the outer surface of the bearing is mounted flush with the outer surface of Hammer or mallet the bung on the crankshaft. A “soft” hammer is preferred so as not to leave any permanent marks or imperfections on the metal of the surfaces you’re hitting, but if you so choose to use a steel hammer rather than a soft plastic or brass one, be sure to use a block of wood between the hammer and the surface you’re pounding. The heavier the hammer, the less effort it takes to give it a good whack, but since not too much effort should be needed anywhere in this kit, and a smaller hammer tends to yield more precise knocks, we use a medium or small sized hammer. If your hammer face is small enough to fit inside the bearing, you run the risk of hammering the bearing in too far or ruining it.

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These are very useful when you need to remove the WBX engine from the vanagon, as it’s wiring harness is held in place by a staggering Diagonal Cutters number of zip ties.

It is for instance used during the installation of the pilot bearing but can also be used to mark things throughout the conversion process so that Masking Tape you know what hoses or lines will eventually attach to what.

You can use any brand, the key is that this goes hand in hand with the above masking tape, and it’s a wonderful tool that will come in handy Black Permanent Marker when you go to labeling things or marking positions of things (Say the position of the flywheel to line it up with the bolt holes).

You’re going to need at least a pair of grocery bags to put over the CV’s (Drive axles) after you remove them from the transmission in order to A Bunch of Bags keep dirt from getting into the grease (and from grease getting EVERYWHERE). Furthermore, a bunch of small zip-lock style sandwich or snack sized bags come in handy when it’s time to store 4 screws together that you’ll have to put back on later, and with the help of your Sharpie, you’ll figure out what they belong too! Maybe use your tape too to tape the bag to the item in question. An example would be, take the 4 screws off the tail light assembly and put them into a bag. Label the bag “Passenger side taillight assembly”, and tape it to the lens. This will help everything go back together smoothly. Anyone can take things apart….but putting them back together can be an entirely different story.

You might need more than one, a variety of sizes and lengths is nice to have, but this is a tool you’ll find yourself using from time to time to Philips Head Screwdriver tighten down hose clamps, remove WBX engine components and taillights, and it will come in handy for general household use in the future.

Pretty much everything that was just mentioned about the ‘Philips Head’ screwdriver applies to this one as well, in addition to it’s amazing Flat Head Screwdriver ability to pry two things apart depending entirely upon the size of the head of the screwdriver, and the thickness of the shaft (Screwdrivers will bend…..).

This is a wonderful tool that no mechanic should be without. It’s essentially a locking pliers that has a screw adjuster on the end of the handle. Vise Grips More often than not, you need them to lock into position, so you adjust the screw until the tool locks easily upon the object needing squeezed, then you unlock it, tighten the screw a little more, and hope that it locks down TIGHT. These are particularly wonderful for removing bolts with stripped heads or grabbing something equally slippery that feels compelled to escape.

You need to get the rear end of the van high. Having the wheels 10" or so off the ground is generally more than enough, and this can be easily Ramps/Jack stands achieved by backing the van up onto a set of mechanics ramps and chucking the front tires with blocks of wood(2"x6" cut down are perfect), or jacking up the rear of the van and properly positioning a set of jack stands under the rear (And again, chocking the front tires with blocks!).

You will want to have various sized block of wood to work as a soft surface between your hammer and the part you’re hammering (if your Blocks of wood hammer is not a soft one), blocks of wood to put between the floor jack and the transmission or floor jack and the engine, and block of wood to chock the wheels from allowing the van to roll forward off ramps/jack stands. (2) 2"x6"s cut to 6 inches or so work well on top of the wheel ramps for the extra clearance when pulling the old engine or installed the conversion.

This is needed if you are installing power steering from the zetec into your van. This Allen key will be used to install the brass plug that fills the 3/16" Allen Wrench or Driver void where the stock pressure switch would be on a vanagon. A 3/16" allen bit or socket-bit will also work.

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You will need this tool in order to install the long allen head starter bolt. A socket-bit on the end of a 6" extension is the easiest to use for this. 8mm Allen Wrench or Bit

You will need one or the other of these if installing power steering. This tool is used to reposition the intake pipe on the power steering pump Adjustable Wrench or Pipe Wrench to a different orientation.

These are used on the cam pulleys(if timing belt change is needed), coil bracket, and middle timing belt cover. You will need a T45 and T55 Torx bits size.(smaller bit size required to fill in, need confirmation)

An E7 and E10 inverted Torx (in your choice of drive sizes) will be necessary for use throughout the conversion. Inverted Torx bits

Necessary CV (Constant Velocity Drive Axle) bolt tool. Depending entirely upon what hardware you have on your van, it could be either a CV (Constant Velocity Drive Axle) bolt bit “Triple Square” Bit in which case it would be an E8 size, or an Allen head socket in which case it would be an 6mm.

A good set of standard wrenches with an open end and a box end would be useful throughout the conversion. Wrenches The specific sizes needed will be 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 17mm, and 19mm.

A Floor Jack is a very necessary tool for removing the engine and transmission as a unit. When it comes to floor jacks, you tend to get what you Floor Jack pay for, so quality is something to take note of when purchasing this wonderful tool. The bigger jacks tend to make the WBX removal a bit easier, especially those with a large face plate (the section of the floor jack that makes contact with whatever it is that’s being jacked). Make sure your jack has a good, operational set of swiveling caster wheels so that it can change direction when necessary (when hauling an engine for instance).

An Engine Hoist. There are many ways to safely lower the WBX out of your van and lift the Zetec in. Probably the easiest and most common Engine Hoist method is with an engine hoist. These can be purchased from $150.00 or rented for about $25/Day. It is best to lower the engine and transaxle as a unit and then separate them later. Some of the more common methods involve using a floor jack with a chunk of wood (or transmission jack adapter) on it to support the engine while pulling it out. Other possibilities include using an ATV/Motorcycle jack or a hydraulic lift table. If you are working on a cement floor you could also just drop the engine on a piece of plywood or a strong piece of cardboard and then just yank it out.

Paper Towels will be really useful. You will use them. Everything on your WBX is most likely covered in dirt. You’re most likely going to spill a Paper Towels ton of coolant onto that dirty WBX, and then…. You get to start handling it (taking it out of the car). In the end, there is just SOOO much stuff that can get you dirty on any car. Paper towels or the more durable (but slightly more expensive) blue shop towels are indispensable for things like plugging coolant pipes, catching spills etc.

Hand Cleaner. Your hands are going to get dirty. It’s a dirty job. As a result, hand cleaner and paper towels should prove to be ideal in Hand Cleaner maintaining the same level of beauty inside your vanagon and home, as you are inside your vanagon’s engine bay. It also proves to be a great way to keep people from hating you. Fast Orange or other orange type cleaners are great. Make sure to apply them to dry hands, then work the dirt loose, then use water rinse off.

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Don't run with them. Scissors

Normal cautions apply! Razor Knife

This is a canned substance that permeates deep into the threads of bolts that look suspiciously like they won’t come out easily, and tends to PB Blaster or similar penetrating oil free them up from the inside. Any penetrating oil will work, everyone loves their own.

WD40 is a useful product to have on hand throughout the conversion. It can help make hoses go on more easily, lubricate rubber surfaces WD40 when necessary, and acts as a good general purpose product to have on hand. It is also an excellent cleaner/wipedown agent for the engine during prep.

In general, threadlock is categorized by color regardless of the brand in question, but “red” means for “High strength”, so make sure you get Red Threadlock some of that. Threadlock is an adhesive that keeps fasteners from vibrating loose or otherwise coming loose on their own.

Blue means “medium strength” and can be used on any bolt that we do not specify Red. Blue Threadlock

Black or Grey adhesive silicon is what you want. It’s sticky stuff and makes a mess easily, so remember your paper towels and hand cleaner! Do RTV not use household silicone caulking.

Used to create a seal between the thermostat and the Coolant bypass Nipple or plug. You will only need about .2oz Loctite® #518 Gasket Eliminator

The Vanagon cooling system holds quite a bit of coolant. No matter what, you have ALWAYS left some in there. It is impossible to get it all out Drip Basins and it is most likely that you will find another gallon of it hidden somewhere in the system when you least expect it, and it will run down your arm and ruin your day. As a result, you want a large pan of some type to collect the coolant when you open up the system. A large bucket or a bunch of gallon containers will be nice for storing the coolant while your doing your conversion, or disposing of it via the proper recycling channels. Bostig recommends using a wet/dry vac to remove as much coolant as possible from the cooling system before removing any hoses, and we recommend contacting your local authorities as to how to properly dispose of coolant. Many auto parts stores will take it back and recycle it properly, though this varies with location.

This is for the mess that can result from letting the coolant spill out, and missing your drip basins. Absorbent Clay or Kitty Litter

It’s not very nice getting anything in your eyes, it really isn’t. Safety Goggles

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Some of us have long hair, but despite how long or short your hair is, no one likes to have it full of dirt. Furthermore, long hair can be A cap dangerous when working around anything with moving parts(remember at some point, we’re going to start that zetec up!). A cheap winter cap, welders cap, or baseball hat can do the trick.

A bunch of big boxes cut in half make for a much nicer surface to lay on when you’re climbing under the vanagon, they make for a better Cardboard surface to lay parts and engine out on, and can be used to absorb small spills. It also allows you slide a bit, and is sometimes even better than a creeper if the surface is uneven.

Having some heavy duty solvent available will be handy, as you will need to remove any grease from the flywheel friction surface and from the Brake Cleaner or Acetone heat shield for the exhaust manifold. “Engine cleaner” of some sort may be useful as well when prepping your zetec for installation.

Google "otc 6486" for the set runs about $20-$30 and will help greatly when checking Cam timing. Cam Timing Tool Set

You will need a Dial indicator in order to check engine crank endplay. The dial indicator should have an adjustable arm, and Dial Indicator magnetic base.

This will check the ability of the engine to hold compression in each cylinder. You will do this after warming up the engine Compression Tester after the first time around the block.

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Rock Auto Order List

*note Pre parts needed Installation for SK-C vary depending on year/model) The following parts should be sorted into their respective sub-kits before beginning that section of the conversion. It did not make sense to have these parts supplied from us, since we use the same source, and would therefore only increase the price per part based on the need to ship the item multiple times. We do not get any kick backs for suggesting you purchase through Rockauto, but they have the best prices, and have fast shipping.

SK-A: (manual/syncro only) SK-E: (1) F33126 BCA/NATIONAL Pilot Bearing (1) 15284 O2 sensor (1) 21141 Walker Muffler SK-C: (ALL) (1) 61191 FEL-PRO Gasket (1) 13978 STANT 180 Degree Thermostat

(1) FLS38 STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS coolant level sensor (1) 31523 GATES Radiator cap SK-I: (T-housing upgrade only) (1) AIRTEX #1T1008 coolant temp gauge sender (1) F7RZ9C968AA Motorcraft Fuel pressure regulator (or equivalent) + SK-C (Auto only) (1 pack of two) 47006 DORMAN Tee SK-In: + SK-C (SYNCRO) (1) 603001 DORMAN Coolant recovery tank (1) 20088 Gates hose (1) DY966 Motorcraft speed sensor (1) 21204 Gates hose (1) 22288 Gates hose (1) 22504 Gates hose

+ SK-C (IF YOU HAVE AN 86+ 2WD) (1) 20088 Gates hose (1) 20710 Gates hose (1) 22288 Gates hose (1) 22504 Gates hose

+ SK-C (IF YOU HAVE AN 85 or earlier) (1) 21204 Gates hose (1) 22288 Gates hose (1) 22504 Gates hose if plastic cooling lines (1) 21086 hose is also required

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Procedure for buying parts from Rockauto

Browse to: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/catalog.php

1) Enter the part number into search field(upper right search field)

2) Add each item to your cart

3) Adjust quantities, and update

4) Double check cart contents

5) Google for current rockauto.com discount code

Discount codes look like: 32741432694229

Enter this in the "how did you hear about us" box and save another 5%

6) Apply discount to cart

7) Checkout

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Engine Call Sheet

Note: It is useful to view the engine damage check and prep video before calling for an engine as well. These can be found with the other video supplements. Pre Installation Q: What exactly am I after? What constitutes the "engine"? A: You are after the commonly held definition of a salvage engine, which is intake to exhaust manifold, no accessories (you might get lucky though), no hoses, no intake tract (airbox etc).

Sourcing the Engine is done in two main steps: Part I Find out who has one via car-part.com Part II Call them, verify it is correct, and pay.

Part I How to guide for using car-part.com: For the year use 2002, car-part has all the year interchange functionality built in. For the vehicle select “Ford Focus”. For the part select “Engine” You can then choose to search by geographic area, or search all locations. Finally you’ll choose “Sort by price/Select sort” to shows results by price. You will then see a list of possible in a grey box, select either intake manifold ID for the DOHC both can be used. WS4E is more common, but you might want to check 988F before you finalize your call list. Browse to the bottom of the page, look for the page numbers of returned results and click the one with the “*” next to it. The lowest priced page will have a “*” next to it, start with the least expensive and work back in the pages, the notes sometimes have useful information. You'll see some abbreviations too. "TMU" means "True Mileage Unknown", sometimes a low number like 0 or 1 is used if they don’t know mileage. Generally skip those, but it is possible to have 0 mileage engines at yards, just much less likely than a few years ago. Sometimes the mileage isn't written in the mileage column but in the notes instead. Collect telephone numbers from listings that look good (right price, nearby, etc) or print the page to use as a call list.

Part II: Call the yards one by one using the script below until you are able to purchase an engine, checking off the yards called as you go. If you reach the end of your list, repeat step 7 from the next page up in the list of results. You should also try the other intake manifold ID before you start calling. Your first priority after establishing that the yard has a 00-04 Ford Focus Zetec DOHC is to find out mileage. Mileage should be your first category of selection. Honestly, anything up to 50k is a great deal at the prices we're talking, but go for as low as you can find for the right price. There are some real steals out there in zetecs, we bought an engine from a yard in Florida for $125, with 10k miles on it. $500 is our average price paid for engines, including shipping, under 10k miles and that's over 50+

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engines. Also don't limit yourself to just yards you can drive to. Having the engine shipped isn't usually too bad, at around $200. Don't forget to ask the salesperson's name, and write it down with the yard number, and engine details.

SCRIPT for calling for an engine: We provide a script as a guideline, salvage yards have their own culture, and modes of interaction. If you deviate too far outside of the norm, they are likely to understand you are inexperienced and take advantage of you, or provide poor servise. The key is to say as little as possible using the correct terms and order.

When you call the yard, the first thing you say should simply be this: "Hi I’m looking for an engine from a 2002 Ford Focus" Or something to that effect. Don't tell them its a DOHC, don't tell them its intake manifold ID yet. Then they should ask you "which motor?" or "is it the dual or the single?" or "I've got a couple to choose from" The answer is then: "It’s the Dual Over head Cam Engine. I've got the intake manifold ID if that helps." Note: Remember either intake is fine WS4E or the 988F

Make sure the person at the yard goes out to inspect the engine. Don’t take someone’s word for it, the sales person at the yard may be less than helpful, and may not want to go check the engine themselves. The engine should be checked for the following:

 Water in the spark plug gallery.(under the plug boots, centerline of the engine)  Cracks/impacts to the lower aluminum crank case.  Breakage of any of the 4 nipples on the intake (which is plastic), or if the intake itself is cracked anywhere.  Damage to the steel oil sump/pan.  Missing parts, brackets

You have to ask the sales person to pull the spark plug wires and check for water. The water usually comes from when the yard washes the engine, or from the engine sitting in the car with the hood up.

It can be a pain if your engine has water in the spark plug gallery, as all water and rust particulates will need to cleaned out with a vacuum and a very tiny stiff brush so the plugs can be removed and no debris falls into the cylinders. Sometimes the yard will tell you "Yes its dry, there is no water in the spark plug gallery", but they didn't actually check. If your engine arrives with water in the spark plug gallery (happens perhaps 15% of the time), leave it on the pallet with the packing/ strapping still in place and take several photos of the engine with the water in the galley and also whatever paint markings on the engine that the yard puts on it so they know it is one of their engines. You'll then want to call the yard back and explain the situation. Make the situation seem like a big deal and that you can still use the engine begrudgingly, it's just that it’s going to add some work/time to get it ready to go into the car. It's at this point that you can refresh their memory as to how you stressed the point about the gallery being clean to begin with, perhaps how they assured you it was fine, and that you need to be compensated for the added work/time since it is their mistake. In these cases we usually ask the yard for 50 to 150 dollars back and get it.

Ask them to check if the aluminum lower crankcase is cracked anywhere. Ask if the steel oil pan itself is dented or cracked anywhere. If either is cracked from the wreck, the engine could have been starved of oil and is no good for a conversion. If the person at the yard has a different explanation for the cracked oil pan it may be okay.

Make sure to ask the yard to check the plastic intake for cracks in the runners, and that the vacuum nipples are not broken off anywhere. If you decide to purchase the engine, tell the yard to ship the engine upright or on the exhaust manifold side so the intake does not get broken in shipping. If the intake is

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broken upon arrival call the yard and send photos to work out compensation for the damages. Broken nipples can work or be repaired just one of the smaller ones really needs to be fine, a broken/cracked intake (rare) needs replacing.

Typically a complete zetec engine has all of its bracketry, its ignition coil and plug wires, and heat shield (all of which you'll want). It will not have engine accessories like the alternator and power steering pump, but sometimes you get lucky. The tensioner pulley may or may not be there. Missing brackets are the trickiest thing to source afterward, so they should get you some major money off if they're missing. If the yard guy/gal gives you the "our engines aren't guaranteed with brackets" just tell him you've sourced 50 of these engines in the last year, and they all came with brackets(which is true, since it's true for us, and you should consider yourself part owner of that body of information). Sometimes you can get a yard to send you missing brackets if they're large enough (if they don't have other zetecs to pulls brackets from how can they send you replacements?), you complain enough, and you're firm enough.

Injector Harnesses There are two wiring harnesses involved in the conversion. The small "Injector Harness" that comes on your engine, and the main wiring harness that comes with the kit. To the right are the two variants of the injector harness plug style. The purple matches the provided main harness, however if you happen to have a red style injector harness (right), you must choose one of the options for making the injector harness compatible. Browse to our website Products-> Add-ons/Upgrades ->Injector Harness

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Power Steering Pump Call Sheet

Overview: The power steering pump used is from a 2001 Ford Focus with DOHC Zetec engine. We don’t use the power steering pressure switch, and a pump usually Precomes Installation with the switch. In the case that it does not come with a switch you can purchase a new one from ford to use as a block off, or use a brass block off plug as the port must be blocked off.

The pump shown on the left has the power steering pressure switch port in the lower right hand corner (open threads).

Note that the pump body is cast iron. This is important as the correct pump is cast iron, the incorrect pump (the one for the SOHC) is aluminum. Also the hole with the red cap should have the inlet nipple attached, not a red cap! (see photo below). Note the red/orange sticker (the color of the sticker can help ID the pump).

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Sourcing the power steering pump is done in two main steps:

Part I Find out who has one via car-part.com Part II Call them, verify it is correct, and pay.

Sourcing the power steering pump is also best done through car-part.com:

1. For the year use 2001 2. For the vehicle select “Ford Focus”. 3. You can then choose to search by geographic area, or search all locations(power steering pumps are cheap to ship, so this is usually the best option). 4. Finally you’ll choose “Sort by price/Select sort” to shows results by price. 5. You will then see a list of possible power steering pumps in a grey box, select “DOHC, 2.0L, exc. SVT”. 6. Browse to the bottom of the page, look for the page numbers of returned results and click the one with the “*” next to it as this indicates the lowest price page before they start giving you “call for price” results. 7. Collect telephone numbers from listings that look good (right price, nearby, etc) or print the page to use as a call list. 8. Call the yards one by one using the script below until you are able to purchase a pump, checking off the yards called as you go. If you reach the end of your list, repeat step 7 from the next page up in the list of results.

SCRIPT for calling for a power steering pump: We provide a script as a guideline, salvage yards have their own culture, and modes of interaction. If you deviate too far outside of the norm, they are likely to understand you as inexperienced and take advantage of you, or provide poor servise. The key is to say as little as possible using the correct terms and order.

Yard picks up, says something like “Thanks for calling ABC auto parts” I’m looking for a Power Steering pump for a 2001 Ford Focus They may ask what engine it goes to It’s from the 2.0L non-SVT Dual Over head Cam Engine They should tell you they have one on the shelf Is the pulley bent? I can’t use it if the pulley is bent If they say I don’t know, ask to have someone check it and get back to you, otherwise move on What’s your name? Do you have an extension?(Always get the salesperson name and write it down)

Inspection of Pulley: We've observed that roughly 7% of the time yards send the wrong pump(usually from the single overhead cam engines) even if they have it labeled in their systems as a DOHC pump. It is important to mention this scenario casually and ask them how they would handle such a situation. Usually they issue a refund and may or may not want the incorrect pump back.

Bent pulleys are no good since you do not have a good one to swap onto the old pump(which also requires a pulley tool). This is best avoided by asking the yard sales person to double check and make sure the pulley is straight, and ready to use.

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In some cases you might have received a pulley for an 03-04 focus, and the pulley can be larger than the 01, this is not a huge deal. This is remedied by either a slightly larger belt. See the Serpentine belt routing instructions in SK-IN for further instructions.

ECU Call Sheet

Overview: The ECU for the Bostig 2010 has changed from the previous v1.0 and v2.0(up to Group 6) ECU. The change was made for several reasons, chiefly so that the end user can source an ECU on their own should it need replacement. Prior to v2.0 Group 6, the ECU needed the Passive anti-theft key to be programmed to the ECU before the ECU would function. Additionally the older style SCT Xcal 2 could not be unlocked by the end user, so in the event of an ECU failure, the ECU, PATs key, and SCT handheld would all have to come here to be moved to a new ECU. With the v2.0 Group 6+ ECU, if the ECU is still able to communicate with the SCT it can be replaced by the end user without the need to send anything anywhere.

The ECU now being used is from 1998-2000 Ford Ranger trucks with 2.5 liter 4 cylinder engines and manual transmissions. The ECU was chosen for its ability to run our custom tune on the zetec, and for its availability and therefore price.

Sourcing the ECU is done in two main steps:

Part I Find out who has one via car-part.com Part II Call them, verify it is correct, and pay.

1. For the year use 1998, 1999, or 2000.

2. For the vehicle select “Ford Ranger”.

3. You can then choose to search by geographic area, or search all locations(ECUs are cheap to ship, so this is usually the best option).

4. Finally you’ll choose “Sort by price/Select sort” to shows results by price.

5. You will then see a huge list of possible ECUs in a grey box, don’t panic.

6. You are only interested in the results that match our criteria. Acceptable listings will appear as shown on the next page:

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Note the pattern:

4-153 (2.5L)  Engine we want

MT  Stands for manual transmission, also what we want

std emis  doesn’t mean a nasty medical condition from not using protection, it specifies standard federal emissions these are fine.

low emis  means low or CA emissions, either std or low emissions will work fine.

ID XXXX-XX  ECU ID, this is important, compare this number vs the table on the last page of the call sheet for verification. If it’s there, you should be fine.

7. Select a listing that matches the criteria above. Write down the ID number before you click the search button.

8. The search results for ECUs will display. Immediately scroll all the way to the bottom of the page to see the pages returned. Click on the page with the “*” next to it, as it will display the least expensive ECUs in those results. (pictured below, in this case page *7)

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9. On the page with the least expensive results, see if the pricing is acceptable (should be no more than $50, they can be had as cheap as $20), also look at the location, if they are too far away hit back in your browser a couple times and repeat steps 7-9 until you have a couple options that look good. If you can’t find a price you like(unlikely), or really want to exhaust all possible listings, you can also start at step 1 and change the year, which will present a new set of ID listings to choose from to work steps 7-9 against.

10. Write down the name/number of the yard with the listings you’re interested in.

11. Call the yard. They will likely answer the phone with the name of the yard. Tell them simply “I’m looking for an engine computer for a 1998(or whatever year you’re using) Ford Ranger” say no more than this unless prompted.

12. Typically they will then ask you “I’ve got a bunch here, what transmission” or “Do you have the ID number”, to this, reply with the ID option you chose in step 7.

TIP: it helps to read the ID with the radio alphabet(alpha, bravo, charlie, delta…) to prevent miscommunication, the cadence for the ID number is the first four characters of the ID then pause or insert “ending in” and the last two characters after the hyphen.

13. If they think they have it, they will either have it on a shelf, or it may still be in a vehicle. In either case, ask that someone verify the hardware ID on the white sticker on the main gray ECU connector before shipping it. ECUs are not returnable and sold as is, this is not usually a problem unless you get the wrong one! Yards are usually unfamiliar with the hardware ID, but it’s easy to explain:

“The hardware ID is the code in the top line of the sticker above the barcode, it should read ML2-712 if it does, I can use it.”

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Here is a picture of the sticker as an example of a usable ECU:

14. If they have to call you back after they check(common), make sure you get the name of the person you are talking to and write it down next to the yard info and number in case you need to follow up.

Table of usable IDs on car-part.com

XL5F-ARB F87F-JA F87F-SC F87F-CBA XL5F-BRA XL5F-ARC F87F-JB F87F-TA XL5F-ARA XL5F-BRB XL5F-BHB F87F-JC F87F-TB XL5F-ARB XL5F-BSA XL5F-BHC F87F-KA F87F-TC XL5F-ARC XL5F-BSB XL5F-BJB F87F-KB XL5F-ARB XL5F-BHA XL5F-BTA XL5F-EC F87F-KC XL5F-ARC XL5F-BHB XL5F-BUA XL5F-ED F87F-KD XL5F-BHB XL5F-BHC XL5F-DA F87F-BMA F87F-PA XL5F-BHC XL5F-BJA XL5F-EA F87F-BMB F87F-PB XL5F-BJB XL5F-BJB XL5F-EB F87F-BMC F87F-PC XL5F-EC XL5F-BKA XL5F-EC F87F-CAA F87F-SA XL5F-ED XL5F-BLA XL5F-ED F87F-CBA F87F-SB F87F-CAA XL5F-BPA

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Crank position sensor notes for automatic conversions:

 You MUST ensure that the Crank Position Sensor(CKPS) is installed with the two included Stainless M6 washers for proper spacing. Failure to install the washer will result in damage to the CKPS and possibly a no start.  Additional notes: the washers are not included as an engineering work-around, but are included by design as an alternative to a thinner driveplate cross section, or a custom (read expensive) CKPS cup.

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Torque Converter and Flexplate

Prep/Fitment

Tools and materials:

 Sand paper, 60 grit or finer.

Overview: The torque converter and flexplate must fit together loosely enough to allow movement but tightly enough to allow proper centering. The area of concern is the nub of the torque converter, and the center hole of the flexplate. Proper fitment must be verified, and removal of rust/material may be required on the torque converter, the flexplate, or both. The torque converter needs to be able to slip into and out of the flexplate once installed to verify the 3-5mm of torque converter endplay required. The torque converter also needs to be able to spin apart from the flexplate during initial install to make lining up of the bolts holes easier. Failure to properly prep the torque converter and flexplate can lead to failure of the torque converter and transmission.

Procedure: 1. On a bench, place the flexplate with the timing marks(which face engine normally) facing down.

2. Give the torque converter a quick visual inspection to make sure there is no dirt or rust on the center nub.

3. Test fit the torque converter onto the flexplate, DO NOT FORCE the two together, the weight of the converter alone should allow them to fit together.

4. Verify that there are no gaps between the two anywhere on the mating surfaces(where the 3 torque converter bolts hold the two together.

5. Verify that the torque converter can be rotated(while holding the flexplate) by hand while installed.

6. If either step 4 or 5 are not true, using sand paper, remove material from the nub by hand in a rotating motion. You do not run the risk of removing too much material by hand. You can also remove material from the center hole of the flexplate.

7. Repeat steps 4 & 5.

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Maintenance Schedule for Bostig Conversions

Before First Start First start/warm up Around the block 100 Miles Every 3,000 Miles Every 15K Miles  Change Oil/Filter  Verify no leaks In  Check coolant  Re- check/tighten  Change Oil/Filter  Inspect cooling  Check oil level any system bottle level hose-clamps &  Inspect the system hoses &  Replace Fuel  Keep decklid off  Verify coolant flow fasteners that heat Exhaust flex clamps Filter/Lines and allow oils from  Send log to Bostig(if cycle coupler  Cycle key and Check manufacturing to SCT)  Send log to Bostig(if  Inspect exhaust for fuel leaks burn off exhaust  Verify fuel trims via SCT) system & heat  Have fire  Verify t-stat OBDII are within +/-  Verify fuel trims via shields extinguisher handy working 10%(if not SCT) OBDII are within +/-  Check/Report  Top off coolant 10%(if not SCT) crankshaft endplay after cool-down to Bostig

Every 30,000 Miles Every 50,000 Every 60,000 Every 90,000 Every 2 years ALWAYS  Replace air  Inspect/replace  Replace fuel filter  Replace timing belt  Flush Cooling  Have fire cleaner/element engine accessory  Replace plugs & & tensioner System extinguisher handy  Check and if drive belt wires (Green Coolant) needed replace the (serpentine belt)  Replace muffler  Ask questions or PCV Valve  Replace manifold use google if you  Check/Report crank heat shield (stock don’t understand endplay to Bostig ford only) something

 Log MPGs (helps to know your state of tune)

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