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TheThe TextileTextile AssociationAssociation (India)(India) ISSN 0368-4636 (Founded 1939) EDITORIAL BOARD May-June 2012 Volume 73 No. 1 Chairman : Prof. (Dr.) M. D. TELI Institute of Chemical Technology, Co-Chairman : Mr. K. L. VIDURASHWATHA Contents Technical Advisor, Rossari Biotech, Mumbai Editor : Prof. (Dr.) R. V. ADIVAREKAR Editorial Institute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai 2 Welcome to the Peer Reviewed Journal of TAI MEMBERS by Prof. (Dr.) Mangesh D. Teli Dr. ARINDAM BASU (CSTRI, ) Mr. C. BOSE (Bose & Co., Mumbai) A Review on Auto Coner Winding Package Defects 5 Dr. A. N. DESAI (BTRA, Mumbai) and Probable Remedies Dr. ROSHAN PAUL (LEITAT, Spain) by Suchibrata Ray & Biswapati Chatterjee Dr. A. K. PRASAD (Clariant, Mumbai) Dr. RAMKUMAR SHESHADRI Effect of Weaves & Weft Counts on Comfort 10 (Texastech University, USA) Properties of PV Blended Suiting Fabrics Dr. H. V. SREENIVASAMURTHY by S. B. Mhetre & Archana K. Karadbhajne (Advisor, NMIMS-CTF, Shirpur) OFFICE BEARERS Effect of Plasma Treatment on Coloration & Antibacterial 18 Activity of Fabric Using Natural Fungal Extract National President by Parthiban M. & Thilagavathi G. Mr. D. R. MEHTA National Vice-President Dr. ANIL GUPTA Self & Mixed Shades of Catechu and Henna on and 23 Chairman Silk using Harda as a Mordant Mr. K. D. SANGHVI by M. D. Teli, Javed Shaikh, Kushalkumar Mahalle, Vijendra Labade & Rupa Trivedi Vice-Chairman Dr. N. N. MAHAPATRA Efficiency and Productivity Analysis of the Indian Garment 29 Hon. Gen. Secretary Mr. V. D. ZOPE Industry During MFA Phase-Out and Post Period Hon. Jt. Gen. Secretary by R. N. Joshi Mr. HARESH B. PAREKH Mr. VIRENDRA JARIWALA Value Addition of the Products through Traditional 35 Hon. Treasurer Danka Craft of Udaipur Mr. V. N. PATIL by Radha Kashyap, Sulekha Ojha & Jyoti Soni Chairman - J.T.A. Editorial Board Prof. (Dr.) M. D. TELI Texperience Chairman P.A.C. 41 Dr. H. V. SREENIVASAMURTHY Current Challenges for Industry Chairman B.P.C. by Dr. P. Siva Ramakumar Prof. ASHWIN I. THAKKAR Printed at : Texspecial 43 Sundaram Art Printing Press, Mumbai Innovation Through Software Published by PAVITRA PUBLISHER by Sharad Tandon Mr. J. B. SOMA (Publisher) 7A/203, New Dindoshi Giridarshan CHS., Near N.N.P. No. 1 & 2, New Dindoshi, Texnotes 45 Goregaon (E), Mumbai - 400 065. M.: 9819801922 Shape Memory Polymers in E-mail : [email protected] / [email protected] by Chet Ram Meena JTA is a Blmonthly Publication of THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) Pathare House, 2nd Floor, Next to , OTHER FEATURES 67, Ranade Road, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028. Unit Activities 47 Phone : (91-22) 2446 1145 • Fax (91-22) 2447 4971 E-mail : taicnt@mtnl..in News 49 www.textileassociationindia.org Advertisement Index 40 JTA is Abstracted By : Forthcoming Events 68 Chemical Abstracts, USA Indian Science Abstrats, India World Textile Abstracts, UK Texincon, India

E-mail: [email protected] Serampore-712201, Hooghly, West Bengal 12, WilliamCareyRoad, Government CollegeofEngineering and Textile Technology, Suchibrata Ray * Allcorrespondenceshouldbeaddressedto: of faultsgenerationandfewremedialstepsarehigh- hard wasteisgenerated.Inthispaper, certaincauses to conerejectionandsubsequentlyalargeamount of defective packages. Also, defectinthepackageleads manufacturing processesgetslargelyaffectedbysuch mance oflatestgenerationhighspeedmachinesinnext duced withdifferentkindsofdefectsinit.Theperfor- winding operation,packagesaresometimesbeingpro- a wingcamorbygroovesinthedrum[1].Inthis versed eitherbyanindependenttraverse,typically contact withacylindricaldrum,andtheyarnistra- machines rotatesformingpackagethroughsurface special typeofyarn,isdrumwinding.Drumwinding system forallcategoriesofnormalyarnotherthan andweavingprocesses.Mostpopularwinding ages isimportantforsatisfactoryperformanceduring processes. Thepreparationofbetterqualityyarnpack- gms. Itisessentialtofacilitatethenextmanufacturing the smallyarnpackages(yarncop)ofnormally45-70 kgs areproducedon Auto conerwindingmachinefrom size yarnpackage(calledcones)ofnormally1.5-2.5 versatile machineforyarnmanufacturing.Thebigger technologiesandislikelytocontinueasamost The ringspinningsystemstilldominatesoverothernew 1. Introduction May -June2012 SPINNING Winding, Defects,Patterning,Loopgate, Adaptor, Deflectorplate, Tension sensor, Doffing. Keywords measures forwindingpackagedefects,practicedintheyarnmanufacturingindustry. any kindofwindingpackagedefects.Herewehavetriedtohighlightthesourcesandremedial to thecustomer. So,ithasbecomemost essential forqualityyarnproducerstopreventoccurrencesof best qualityyarn,defectsgeneratedduringwindingoperationwillmaketheyarnasunacceptable package qualityisofprimeimportanceandmustbemetoutinclosesttolerance.Inspiteproducing are becomingmoreandsensitiveregardingquality. Therefore,everyparameterregardingyarnand Since globalization,markethasbecomemorecompetitive.Intoday'scompetitivethecustomers Abstract A Reviewon Auto Coner Winding PackageDefects Government CollegeofEngineering&Textile Technology Suchibrata Ray*andBiswapatiChatterjee and ProbableRemedies 5 the windingpackagedefects. lighted. whicharetobetakenreduceorminimize u u u increasing frequencyofoccurrence [2]. twelve packagedefectsisasfollowsinorderof its of packagedefectsisdefinitelydifferent.Thenature of age rejection.Thefrequencyofoccurrenceallkinds defects issame. Any sortofdefectcausesyarnpack- sirable. Thereforetheseriousnessofalltypes of pearance. Inanyconditionnoneofthedefectsisde- The defectsareclassifiedaspertheirnatureandap- 2. Types ofyarnpackagedefects Cut cone Bunch cone Jali cone Figure 1.1: Auto Coner Winding Machine

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association and standardtimingstobe set. 1. Winding accelerationandbraketimingstobechecked 3.1.2 Remedies 3.1 JaliCone gested remedieshavebeendiscussedhere. individually definedandtheirprobablecauseswithsug- All kindsofwindingdefectsaslistedabovehavebeen their remedies 3. Packagedefects,reasonsofgenerationand u u u u u u u u u u u 3.1.1 Probable causes side, aroundthetube,orgoingbackincones[1]. on thesmallorbigsideofconeeitheracross on bottomortopsurfaceofthepackage. isvisible position duringpackageformationandgetswindedcross Definition: Certainyarnportioncomesoutofitstraverse u Yarn isoutofdeflectorplate. Variation in windingacceleration. Improper timingsofdrumbrake. Webbed cone Squeezed cone Drum jammedcone Stained cone Dirty Cone Over doffcone Displaced/loose yarnlayers Hard/Soft Cone Ribbon cone Figure 3.1:JaliCone 6 3.2 BunchCone 3.2.1 Probable causes yarn andgoesintothecone. Definition: A smallgroupofyarnsgetsplicedwithsingle u u u u u u u u 3.3 CutCone 3.2.2 Remedies Loop gatesettingandfunctioningtobechecked. Pre cleanersettingtobeadjusted. 10 mm. Top bunchsettingofringframecoptobesetat Any cutmarkingripperarmtobechecked. Improper workingofLoopgate. Pre- cleanersettingtooloose. Ring framebobbinsloughoff. Yarn trappedingripperarm. Figure 3.2:Bunchcone Figure 3.3:Cutcone May -June2012 SPINNING u u u u u u u u u 3.3.1 Probable causes middle ofthecone. Definition :Theyarnisbrokenontheedgesorin u u u u u u u u u u u 3.5.2 Remedies 3.5.1 Probable causes from onewinderheadtoanother[2]. value resultingingreatdifferencepackagedensity Definition :Packagehardnessvariesfromitsdesired 3.5 HardandSoftcone 3.4.2 Remedies 3.4.1 Probable causes ing thesame[2]. of thepackagebydrumwhenrpmarestay- Definition: A patternorringisformedonthesurface 3.4 Ribboncone 3.3.2 Remedies May -June2012 SPINNING Tension, Pre-tensioner andcradlepressureset- Defective tensionsensor. cone. produce hardconeandlowtensionsoft Improper settingofcradlepressure-toohigh Higher "pre-tensioner"setting. Loop gateremainsalways"on". cone andlowtensionproducesoftcone. Improper tensionsetting-toohighproducehard Winding machinetobestoppedbefore powerfail. adjusted. Anti-patterning deviceworkingtobecheckedand running. Power failureoccurswhilewindingmachineis Anti-patterning devicedoesnotwork. Deposited waxtobecleanedproperly. Traverse belttobecheckedforanysharpedges. After doffing,packagetobegentlypushed. adjusted. Deflector plateandsuctionmouthsettingtobe Rubbing withtraversebelt. Wax depositiononconealigner(Patti)plate. Any cutmarkondrum. doffing. Wrong handlingofthepackage(pushing)after Setting ofsuctionmouthtaper. Tight settingofdeflectorplate. 7 u u u u u u u u u u u 3.6.1 Probable causes small diametersideofthepackage. Definition: Somelayersofyarnarepushedoutonthe 3.7.1 Probable causes weight. Definition :Packageweightexceedsfromrequired 3.7 Overdoffcone 3.6.2 Remedies 3.6 Displaced/looseyarnlayers age parameters. tings aretobesetaspermaterialtypeandpack- Loop gatefunctioningtobechecked. paired. Defective tensionsensorstobereplacedorre- of windingwiththefulldoff package. doffing ofthefullpackage andfurtherrestarting Wrong workpracticesbytheoperator;likenot Wrong lengthsettingininformatorofthemachine. Length sensordoesnotwork. adaptor. nose totailsothatpaperconefitsproperlyinthe Adaptor gaugetobemaintainedsymmetricalfrom enough toholdtheinitialyarnlayers. Surface ofemptypaperconemustberough operator. Paper conetobefittedproperlyintheadaptorby Surface ofpaperconeisslippery ing ofpaperconeandadaptor). Poor fittingofpaperconeonadaptor(mis-match- Paper coneslipsfromadaptor. Figure 3.4:Looseyarnlayers

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association 3.9 Stained Cone u u 3.8.2 Remedies u u u 3.8.1 Probable causes with oildropsorcarbonparticles. Definition: Packagesurfacegetsdirtyorcontaminated 3.8 Dirtycone u u u 3.7.2 Remedies tice tobecompletelystopped. piece ofclothonly. Compressedaircleaningprac- Cleaning of Adaptor tobecarriedoutbyadry continuously. Machine partsandhandshavetobecleaned compressed airgetdeposited. blow ofcompressedair. Oilparticlescomingwith Wrong workpractice-cleaningofadapterby Un-cleaned machineparts. Use ofdirtyhandsbyoperators. (full doffsignal)only. Doffing tobedonewhendrumgivesyellowlight informatory ofthemachine. done rightlyanddesiredlengthtobesetinthe Length vis-à-vispackageweightcalculationtobe length sensortobecheckedperiodically. Rouge drumstobeidentifiedandfunctioningof Figure 3.6:Stained cone Figure 3.5:Dirtycone 8 u u u u u 3.9.1 Probable causes face frictionbetweenpackageandothermachineparts. portion ofthepackage.Itisgeneratedbecausesur- Definition: A darkringappearsonaspecificareaor u u u u 3.10.1 Probable causes action. traverse) ofthepackagebecausedefectivetraverse Definition: Winding ofyarnonsmallportion(alongthe 3.11 Squeezedcone 3.10.2 Remedies 3.10 DrumjammedCone 3.9.2 Remedies edddfetrpae aet esrihee up. Bended deflectorplateshavetobestraightened ately afterfulldofflengthreaches. Full doffpackageshavetobepickedupimmedi- chine part. Full doffconetoucheswithfixedbacksidema- Deflector platetouchesthepackage. Lapping indrum. cleaned immediatelyincaseofjamming. Drum jamming/lappingtobeavoidedor The deflectorplatetobemadestraight. Jamming orlappingondrum. Deflector plategotbent. Figure 3.7:Drumjammedcone Figure 3.8:Squeezedcone May -June2012 SPINNING u u u u u u 3.11.1 Probable causes der bendsinwards. Definition: After fullorpartialconebuildingshoul- .Onlyfull(setlength/weight)conetobetakenout 2. Drumstoppagewithpartiallybuilt-up conefor 1. 3.12.2 Remedies Tension sensorisdefective. Yarn isrunningoutoftensiondisc. 4. 3. Partiallybuilt-upconeistakenout andrefitted Drumstopsforlongtime. 2. 1. 3.12.1 Probable causes forms aweblikeappearance. Definition: Yarn layerscomeoutofconesurfaceand 3.12 Webbedcone LowCScone:60degreecelcius 3.11.2 Remedies May -June2012 SPINNING longer timetobeavoided. again inthesamedrumorotherdrum. HighCScone:65Degreecelcius per conetype(asmentionedbelow): Temperature inconditioningtobemaintainedas maintained aspervarietyofpapercones. Standard conecollapsingstrength(CS)tobe packing. Soft handlingofpackageafterdoffingandduring material conditioning. Use ofhighertemperaturethanstandardduring per cones. Use oflowercollapsingstrength(CS)emptypa- Poor handlingofemptypapercones. Figure 3.9: Webbed cone 9 .www.textilesindepth.com 2. Yarn faultsandpackagedefects-SITRA publica- 1. References any occurrenceofsuchdefects. causes withremediesarealsolistedoutsoastoavoid high speedautoconerwindingsystem.Theirprobable (12) frequentlyoccurringdefectsinpackagecones tempts havebeenthereforemadeidentifyingtwelve production aswelldowntoultimateproducts. At- prone toincurconsiderablelossinsubsequentstagesof form ofdefectsgeneratedatthewindingstageismore package conesinindustry, itseemsnaturalthatany With theincreasingdemandforsuperiorqualityof 4. Conclusion Defectivetensionsensortobereplacedorre- Yarn tobepassedthroughtensiondisc. 4. 3. u u u u u u u u WEBSITE VISIT YOUR tions. paired. from thedrum. www.textileassociationindia.org And muchmore CDs TAI Publications: Books, TABLETS, and Access Copiesof AITC Papers ofTAIPhoto Gallery Events See ATA/GMTA ExamSchedule See ATA/GMTA Examresults wards View JTA Issueson-line: Year 2008on- (India) tile Association Detail informationandDataoftheTex- ……….. r r r r

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association two aspectsofwearcomfortclothing. single physicalproperty. Itispossibletodistinguishthe attributes anditisnotpossibletoquantifythrough a The comfortsensationofafabrichasmultidimensional cerned [2]. ity asfartheselectionofgarments/fabricsiscon- acteristics [1].Comforthastotallyreplacedthedurabil- being ofeasycare,mustpossessgoodcomfortchar- having goodmechanical&technologicalproperties protection. To becompetitive,modernclothingbesides number offunctionslikeadornment,status,modesty& Clothing isanintegralpartofhumanlifeandhasa 1. Introduction u E-mail: Textile &EngineeringInstitute,, Dist., Department of Textile Technology Archana K.Karadbhajne * Allcorrespondenceshouldbeaddressedto: and thewayclothinghelpstomaintainheat the heat&moisturetransportpropertiesofclothing Thermo physiologicalwearcomfort:Itconcerns thermal insulationvalue. Air resistance,fabriccomfort,handle,lowstressmechanicalproperties,Moisturetransportrate, Keywords fabrics. Thermalinsulationvaluesarehigherfor2/2twillwoven for twillandsatinwovenfabrics.Theairpermeability&moisturetransportrateismoreplain fabrics wovenusingfineryarnshelpedinimprovingthesurfacesmoothness.Theairresistanceismore fabrics giveslowerKOSHI,NUMERI&FUKURAMI,thusTHV. Irrespectiveoftheweave, values arehigherfor2/2twill&5endsatin,thusgiving Total Hand Value (THV).Plainwoven higher for2/1twillwovenfabrics,NUMERI(smoothness)andFUKURAMI(fullness&softness) surface roughness,frictionandhandle.Thestudyshowsthat,KOSHI(stiffness)valuesare measuring thefabricmechanical&surfacepropertiessuchastensile,shear, bending,compression, insulation &moisturevapourtransferpropertiesoffabrics.Thetactilehavebeenstudiedby Evaluation System. The thermalcomforthasbeenstudiedbymeasuringtheairpermeability, thermal blended fabricshavebeenstudiedbymeasuringthelowstressmechanicalpropertiesonKawabata The effectofweaves&weftcountsonthethermalcomfortandtactilepropertiespolyesterviscose Abstract [email protected] Effect of Weaves & Weft CountsonComfortProperties of PVBlendedSuitingFabrics S. B.Mhetre & Archana K.Karadbhajne* Department of TextileDepartment Technology, Textile &Engineering Institute 10 yarn structure,fabricstructure &finishingtreatments. ence thefabrictactilequality suchasrawmaterial, ness, pliability, thickness, etc.Manyfactorsmayinflu- subjective judgmentofroughness, smoothness,harsh- must betakenintoaccount.Itisconcernedwiththe ties &thereforeastudyofclothingtactilecomfort ment areobviouslyrelatedtothefabrichandleproper- the levelofloadgeneratedinfabricduringbodymove- & surfaceproperties.Theeaseofbodymovement & The handleofthefabricisinfluencedbyitsmechanical manipulated inthefingers. sensations experiencedwhenafabricistouched or or "Hand"arealsoused.Fabrichandreferstothetotal fabrics. Term like"FabricHandle"orsimply"Handle" cept of"FabricHand"iscommonlyusedtoassess In ordertofindcomfortevaluationoftextiles,thecon- u ity. balance ofthebodyduringvariouslevelsactiv- prickle, irritation&clingwhendamp. softness andpliabilityinmovement&itslackof mechanical contactofthefabricwithskin,its Skin sensationalwearcomfort:Itconcernsthe May -June2012 FABRIC weight categories. weft countsinlightweight,mediumweight&heavy suiting fabricsproducedbyusingdifferentweavesand mechanical andthermalcomfortaspectsofPVblended The presentwork,therefore,isaimedtostudythe with changeinweaveandweftyarncount. hand valueincludingvarioustransmissionbehaviour change inmechanicalpropertiesoffabricandthetotal & humanbody. Itisthereforeimportanttoexaminethe cal andphysiologicalinterrelationshipbetweenthecloth fabric needstobeinvestigatedunderstandthephysi- cal comfort&thermalcharacteristicsofthe mechanical comfortforwear[19].Thusbothmechani- hand, possibilityofmakinggoodappearancesuitand fabrics whichshouldsatisfythreeconditionsi.e.good Efforts arebeingmadetoproducemorecomfortable search workers[14-18]. ing andhasdrawntheattentionofmanytextilere- balance isprobablythemostimportantattributeofcloth- and airthroughthefabric.Themaintenanceofthermal factor governedbythemovementofheat,moisture fabric handleproperties[3-13].Thermalcomfortisthe Many researchershavecarriedoutextensiveworkon Table 2.1:FabricConstructionalparameters,fabricthickness&weight May -June2012 FABRIC oe(m om atmax.pressure To mm Weight(mg/cm2) Fabric (Nm) Fabric thickness Weftcount Weave Code Sample 322til14 .4 .4 21.64 20.52 22.54 22.16 20.40 0.343 21.30 16.18 0.328 15.26 0.353 1/56 0.447 16.92 0.323 2/84 0.425 5endsatin 0.308 1/48 0.460 5endsatin 0.334 0.296 1/56 0.441 4endsatin E2 0.284 2/84 1/48 0.412 4endsatin E1 0.302 1/56 0.433 4endsatin D3 0.404 2/84 2/2 D2 0.380 1/48 twill 2/2 D1 0.382 1/56 twill 2/2 C3 2/84 1/48 twill 2/1 C2 1/56 twill 2/1 C1 2/84 twill 2/1 B3 Plain B2 Plain B1 Plain A3 A2 A1 35edstn1/48 5endsatin E3 Warp countis2/84Nmfor allsamples. .1 .9 25.92 24.05 21.13 20.42 22.67 0.393 0.379 0.333 0.513 0.327 0.504 0.348 0.443 0.422 0.454 .9 .8 23.62 0.380 0.493 11 . softner) PerchingStabilaContipressorNikkiKier Heat setting-Resintreatment(Resin5gpl+10 try asbelow:greysingeing-PrescouringDrying normal processsequencefollowedinthesuitingindus- The finishingofthefabricsampleswasdoneasper fabrics weremanufactured. in heavyweightcategory4end&5satinwoven 2/1 &2/2twillwovenfabricsweremanufacturedand fabrics weremanufactured.Inmediumweightcategory machine.Inlightweightcategoryplainwoven 2.1 indifferent weightcategoriesonaSulzerTW11 factured withdifferent constructionsasshowninTable All thefifteensamplesofsuitingfabricsweremanu- used tomanufacturetheyarns. length &1.5DenierViscose of38mmlengthwere coloured Polyesterfibresof1.4Denierwith44mm viscoseblendedyarns.Dopedyedblack counts andweavesweremanufacturedfrom65:35 Fifteen samplesofsuitingfabricswithdifferentweft 2.1.1. Preparation offabricsamples 2.1 Materials 2. MaterialandMethods (Tm mm)

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association Table 3.1: Tensile Properties were studiedonKES-FB3(Compressiontester)by vatures -2.5&2.5cm-1.Compressionalproperties tester) bybendingthefabricsamplebetweencur- properties weremeasuredonKES-FB2(Purebending constant tensionof10gf/cmontheclamp.Bending the fabricsampleparalleltoitslongaxis,keepinga curve. Shearpropertiesweremeasuredbyshearing zero andmax.forceof500gf/cmtherecovery sured byplottingtheforceextensioncurvebetween and sheartester).Thetensilepropertiesweremea- and shearpropertieswerestudiedonKES-FB1(tensile System forfabrics(KESFB).Thetensileproperties ness, andsurfacefriction)onKAWABATA Evaluation (tactile, shear, bending,compression,surface,rough- measuring thefabriclow-stressmechanicalproperties Handle propertiesofthefabricswereevaluatedby properties2.2.2 Fabrictactilecomfort load cellwith1%threshold. sion of0.5CN/Tex withadropforceof90%at10N of 300mm/minandgaugelength500mmatapreten- carried outonSTATIMAT MEtesterwithtestspeed All theyarnsweretestedfortensiletestswhich 2.2.1 Yarn Properties 2.2 Methods WT- Tensile Energy;RT- Tensile Resilience. EMT - Tensile Strain ;LT -LinearityoftensileProperty; 306206764 .55.45.137 3.26 2.43 4.03 3.78 2.49 3.82 59.81 2.87 3.21 60.75 2.88 3.45 59.74 54.36 2.98 3.61 58.78 2.88 66.07 3.58 62.82 3.54 62.57 3.68 5.35 2.28 61.01 63.30 3.83 4.65 2.57 64.17 64.54 3.68 6.90 6.45 2.99 62.57 58.85 3.85 4.13 6.55 58.36 64.87 2.81 3.83 4.68 0.657 5.45 60.03 67.82 3.63 3.80 4.98 0.767 5.90 57.37 64.28 3.34 4.64 4.68 0.682 0.688 6.28 58.90 61.31 4.87 4.88 0.686 0.663 6.25 61.68 68.97 4.13 5.32 0.679 6.43 0.653 Weft E3 62.84 62.38 4.05 6.43 0.683 0.691 E2 59.04 65.05 4.55 Warp 0.628 6.27 0.695 E1 62.40 5.22 0.678 7.25 0.699 D3 58.77 4.93 Weft 0.698 0.602 6.85 D2 6.05 0.672 0.710 6.93 D1 EMT Warp 5.57 0.682 0.710 8.63 C3 0.754 0.699 7.85 C2 Weft 0.715 0.704 7.40 C1 0.728 0.666 RT B3 Warp 0.744 0.669 B2 0.645 B1 Weft 0.718 WT A3 A2 Warp A1 Code LT Sample 12 thickness toamaximumpressureof50gf/cm the pressurewhilecontinuouslymonitoringsample placing thesamplebetweentwoplates&increasing seam pressing. wear comfortbutcreateproblemsduringstitchingand and seamslippage. A highervalueof EMTprovides during tensileloading.Thisfactoraffectstailorability extensibility andisrelatedtocrimpremovalprocess The EMT (Tensile strain)value indicateslow-stress Tensile properties ofsuitingfabricsareshownin3.1 3.1. Tensile properties 3. ResultsandDiscussion Road, Matunga,Mumbai. stitute ForResearchOnCottonTechnology , Adenwala All thefabrictestingswerecarriedoutinCentralIn- determined byusingtheKES-F7(ThermoLaboIIB). Thermal insulationandmoisturetransportratewere (Air permeabilitytester). Air permeabilitytestswereconductedonKES-F8 AP1 properties2.2.3 Fabricthermalcomfort properties. hand valueswerecalculatedfromsixteenmechanical on KES-FB4(Surfacetester).Theprimary&total surface roughnessandfrictionweremeasured May -June2012 FABRIC 2 . The mainly dependsuponthemobilityofwarpandweft comfort duringwearing.Shearrigidityofthefabric of shearrigiditycausesdifficultyintailoringanddis- lower forE3(1/48weft,5endsatin).Thehighvalue rigidity (G)inhigherforB3(1/48weft,2/1twill)and It hasbeenobservedfromtable3.2thattheshear 3.2. ShearProperties moval whichleadstoabetterrecoveryintightfabrics. higher fortighterconstructionbecauseofcrimpre- for A3 andlowerforE1.Tensile resiliencevaluesare indicates recoveryaftertensiledeformation.RT ishigher for D3andhigher A2. The tensileResilience(RT) lower forC1.Thetensileenergy(WT)valuesare decreases. Itisseenthat,LT ishigherforB3& comfort, butontheotherfabricdimensionalstability fabric extensibilityininitialstrainrangeindicatingbetter wearing comfort.LowervaluesofLT giveshigher The linearityoftensileproperty(LT) isindicativeof 4 endsatinwovenfabrics,D3haslowestEMT. plain wovenfabrics A2 hashighestEMT andamongall values arehigherforplainwovenfabrics. Among all samples thanforweftexceptsampleE1.EMT It isobservedthatEMTforwarphigherallfabric Table 3.2:Shear&Bending Properties B- BendingRigidity;2HB -HysterisisofBendingmoment G- ShearRigidity;2HG- Hysterisisofshearat0.5 May -June2012 FABRIC 310 .120 .443 .1005 .55000 0.0405 0.0608 0.0741 0.0430 0.0555 0.0918 0.0477 0.0694 0.0956 0.0865 0.0320 0.0551 0.0554 0.01393 0.0506 0.0553 3.91 0.0550 0.0945 0.0562 0.0574 8.05 0.0423 0.0821 0.0368 4.36 0.0707 4.70 0.0642 0.0755 0.0615 8.24 0.0648 0.0662 6.47 0.0874 1.34 4.74 0.0756 0.0458 5.67 0.0964 2.74 6.43 0.0773 6.49 0.0555 0.0859 2.05 1.72 0.0605 6.26 6.92 0.0899 3.10 0.0747 2.15 0.0367 6.93 1.01 0.0638 6.20 1.86 0.0589 1.92 0.0248 7.26 2.26 0.0849 0.0352 7.05 2.07 0.1038 2.30 1.08 0.0404 6.57 1.16 0.0292 0.0409 0.0908 2.24 1 2.04 2.16 7.07 1.68 0.0407 0.0298 0.0479 2.17 9.92 1.86 2HB 1.18 12.74 1.48 0.0551 8.84 E3 0.0473 2.16 2.24 10.96 1.77 1.72 E2 3.61 0.0587 1.89 B 4.24 9.36 1.59 Properties Bending 1.78 E1 4.64 2.55 2.89 1.82 4.19 1.48 D3 4.81 4.77 3.26 1.94 4.57 1.73 D2 3.89 1.31 1.65 4.80 4.49 D1 2.94 1.45 1.86 3.45 C3 1.86 1.24 4.76 2.69 C2 1.81 3.41 2HG5 0.94 C1 2.08 2.91 1.27 B3 1.17 1.24 B2 ShearProperties 1.30 2HG B1 1.33 A3 A2 G A1 Code Sample apWf apWf apWf apWf apWeft Warp Weft Warp Weft Warp Weft Warp Weft Warp 0 ;2HG5-Hysterisisofshear at5 13 at 0.5 2HG and2HG5indicatesthehysteresisofshearforce the fabricswithmorepicksperinch. it maybebecauseofrestrictiononyarnmovementin picks perinchsignificantlyincreasesshearrigidityand rigidity valuesandhysteresisofshear. An increasein fabric havinghigherpickdensitygivesshear threads withinthefabric.Thecompactstructureof ric) thantheircorresponding4endsatinweavefabric. lower shearrigidityandhysteresis(exceptforE2fab- the satinweavefabrics. A 5endsatinweavedisplayed and shearhysteresis. A similartrendisobservedfor the frictionalforcesgivingrisetolowershearrigidity twill wovenfabric,whichwouldconsiderablybringdown reduction inthenumberofyarninterlacing2/1 2/1 twillwovenfabric.Thiscanbeattributedtothe rigidity isobservedforthe2/2twillwovenfabricthan sets ofyarnsinthefabric.Significantreductionshear Shearing occursduetotherelativemovementoftwo made with1/48Nmasaweftyarn. weft yarnandlowerfor A3 i.e.plainwovenfabric i.e. 2/1twillwovenfabricmadewith1/48Nmasa table 3.3thatthehysteresisforshearishigherB3 1.86 0 and5 0 respectively. Itisalsoobservedfrom .08009 .880.0824 0.0818 0.0795 0.1088 0 ;

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association Code Sample Table 3.3:SurfaceandCompression Properties 2/84 Nmweftyarn)andislowerforB2(2/1twill higher forsampleC1(2/2twillwovenfabricmadewith is observedthatthecoefficientoffriction(MIU) The fabricsurfacepropertiesareshownintable3.3It 3.4. SurfaceProperties of yarncount.Koshiincreaseswith depends on4thpowerofyarn'sdiameter, i.e.2ndpower than inweftdirection.Thebendingrigidityofyarn ( Stiffness).Bendingrigidityishigherinwarpdirection fabric. IncreaseinbendingrigidityincreasesKoshi mechanical propertyinfluencingthetailorabilityof low for A2. Bendingrigidityisoneoftheimportant Hysteresis ofbendingmoment(2HB)ishighforE2& is ameasureofrecoveryfrombendingdeformation. 2HB representsthehysteresisofbendingmomentwhich pick density. of bendingvaluesarehigherforthefabricswithmore high forE2&low A2. Bendingrigidity&hysterisis weft threadswithinthefabric.Bendingrigidity(B)is ing rigidityofthethreadsandmobilitywarp Bending rigidity(B)ofafabricdependsuponthebend- 3.3. BendingProperties C-Cmrsinleeg RC- Compressional Resilience -LinearityofCompression; LC MIU; of deviation Mean - MMD WC -Compressionalenergy ; ; Roughness Geometrical - SMD MIU -coefficientoffriction ; 3010017005 .1437 .305001257.64 51.25 0.142 0.152 71.09 0.500 56.23 0.506 0.123 3.43 0.130 58.38 0.443 3.33 0.554 3.77 0.110 69.09 2.78 3.58 0.0134 59.49 0.427 0.127 2.97 0.0149 62.74 0.0153 0.114 3.81 60.30 0.0145 0.478 3.73 0.127 3.12 0.0191 64.15 0.177 0.397 0.134 0.0145 61.41 0.165 0.495 0.0135 3.80 2.95 0.100 0.150 0.172 61.06 0.539 0.0130 3.88 0.128 0.0162 0.157 0.150 0.380 4.15 3.06 0.154 0.125 0.153 0.0102 0.533 E3 4.17 3.45 0.0149 0.146 0.160 E2 3.71 4.69 0.0267 0.624 0.150 0.158 0.0100 E1 4.00 5.27 0.0181 0.150 0.166 0.0168 D3 8.68 0.0315 0.140 5.28 0.172 0.0122 D2 7.65 0.0147 0.150 0.153 0.0153 D1 10.72 0.0177 0.162 0.151 0.0268 C3 0.0152 0.137 0.159 0.0171 C2 0.136 0.175 0.0217 C1 0.143 0.170 B3 0.142 0.171 B2 0.146 B1 0.143 A3 A2 A1 apWf apWf apWeft Warp Weft Warp Weft Warp MUMDSMD MMD MIU 0.0111 0.0114 0.0113 Surface properties .1931 .804601652.94 0.146 0.466 3.88 3.19 0.0149 0.0163 0.0134 14 .034 .5 .2 62.96 0.120 66.84 0.459 0.127 0.523 3.40 3.09 3.70 2.74 earity ofcompression(LC)mainlydependsonthefabric toring itsthicknesswithincreasingpressure.Thelin- by placingthesamplebetweentwoplatesandmoni- The compressionalpropertiesoffabricsaremeasured 3.5. CompressionalProperties surface smoothness. using fineryarnsinB2fabricsaidedimprovingthe which ismorethanotheryarns.Thusfabricwoven made by2/84NmweftyarnswhoseTPIis29.79 of weftyarn. All thesamplesoffirstcategoryare fabric increasesbecauseofincreasetwistnumber According toM.Matsudairaet.al.[6],scroopyfeelof fabric madewith1/56Nmweftyarn). 2/84 Nmweftyarn)andlowerforC2(2/2twillwoven (SMD) ishigherfor A1 (plainwovenfabricmadewith 56 Nmweftyarn).Alsothegeometricalroughness & lowerforC2(2/2twillwovenfabricmadewith1/ (2/1 twillwovenfabricmadewith2/84Nmweftyarn) fingers onthefabricsurface.MMDishigherforB1 the surfacesmoothnessasperceivedwhilemoving mean deviationofcoefficientfriction(MMD)notes woven fabricmadewith1/56Nmweftyarn).The C WC RC LC Compression properties May -June2012 FABRIC for A2 (plainwovenfabricmadewith1/56Nmweft woven fabricmadewith1/56Nmweftyarn)andlower Thus thefabricweightishigherforE2(5endsatin manufactured inheavyweightcategorysuitingfabrics. category suitingfabrics&5endsatinare The plainwovenfabricsaremanufacturedinlightweight 3.6. Fabricweightandfabricthickness 1/56 Nmweftyarn). & lowerforE2(5endsatinwovenfabricmadewith end satinwovenfabricmadewith1/48Nmweftyarn) yarn. IthasbeenobservedthatRCishigherforD3(4 fabric thicknessandcompressionalcharacteristicsof compressional resilience(RC)mainlydependsupon woven fabricmadewith1/48Nmweftyarn).The with 1/56Nmweftyarn)andlowerfor A3 (plain WC ishigherforE2(5endsatinwovenfabricmade depends upontheLCandamountofcompression. 1/48 Nmweftyarn).Compressionalenergy(WC) yarn)& lowerfor A3 (plainwovenfabricmadewith A1 (plainwovenfabricmadewith2/84Nmweft It hasbeenobservedfromtable5thatLCishigherfor thickness andcompressionalcharacteristicsoftheyarn. Table and 3.4:Primary Total Hand Values properties ofsuitingfabrics andComfort May -June2012 FABRIC oe(tfns)(mohes Flns THV (Fullness (Smoothness) (Stiffness) Code 347 .335 .207700911434.4 1.443 16.0 2.129 12.8 0.00971 1.740 9.6 0.00743 1.583 7.5 0.00870 1.531 7.1 0.777 0.00870 1.941 13.6 0.790 2.72 1.622 0.00888 10.2 0.799 2.57 1.371 0.00887 11.2 0.745 2.93 0.00889 1.924 12.9 0.751 3.54 2.48 0.00896 2.170 11.0 0.775 3.36 2.54 0.00820 1.422 13.4 0.804 3.85 2.62 0.00864 1.751 15.7 0.800 2.67 3.29 0.00840 0.334 17.4 4.63 0.856 2.88 3.28 0.00876 0.291 16.6 3.74 0.736 2.93 3.33 0.00950 0.345 4.94 0.764 4.70 1.91 3.38 0.01043 3.81 0.764 6.82 2.47 3.84 0.00947 4.33 0.765 4.75 E3 1.90 3.96 4.14 0.765 5.27 E2 1.48 2.40 4.22 0.823 4.67 E1 1.90 3.31 4.77 5.55 D3 1.78 2.32 4.56 5.74 D2 2.37 1.99 4.90 D1 3.20 3.39 5.68 C3 Air 2.45 1.96 7.38 C2 Moisture 3.11 6.56 C1 3.72 6.51 B3 Thermal 2.94 2.99 B2 2.95 B1 4.07 A3 Fukurami A2 A1 Numeri Koshi Sample Primary Hand Values Comfort properties Comfort Primary Hand Values otes au ae()(.a CV% (K.Pa. rate (m) value & Softness) 15 woven fabricsmadewith1/48Nmweftyarn)and properties. KoshivaluesarehigherforB3(2/1twill In afabrictheKoshi(Stiffness)dependsonitsbending proposed application. indicate varyinglevelsofsuitabilitythefabricfor its unsuitability. A valueof THV between0-5would ideal fortheintendedusewhileaTHVof0suggests scale of0-5. A THV of5indicatesthatthefabricis ity ofthefabricforpredeterminedapplicationsina THV givesaconsolidatedindexreflectingthesuitabil- to theparticulardescriptor. feeling &value10indicatesthestrongestwithregards using ascaleof1-10where1indicatestheweakest shown intable3.4Primaryhandvaluesaregradedby Numeri andFukuramihavebeencalculatedare ing, hencethethreeprimaryhandvaluesnamelyKoshi, The fabricsamplesaremanufacturedforwintersuit- 3.7. Fabrichandvalues lower for A2. yarn) andthefabricthicknessishigherforE2 (o)(/q s S/m) (g/sq.ms) Resistance (Tog) Transport Insulation

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association rate andairresistance. Table 3.4showsthecomfort behaviour, namelythermalinsulation,moisture transport The thermalcomfortisrelated tofabrictransmission 3.8. Fabriccomfortproperties under study. total handvalueassuitingfabricamongallthefabrics fabrics werenotedtogivethebestgradinginterms of thickness ofthesefabrics.Overallthe5endsatinweave Softness andfullnesstoowereenhancedduetogreater on thefabricsurfacecomparedto4endsatinweave. greater surfacesmoothnesspossiblyduetolongerfloats Value (THV)than4endsatinweave. Theyalsoexhibit Similarly, 5endsatinweavegavebetter Total Hand ness andfullness(Fukurami)lowerstiffness(Koshi). by virtueofhigherfabricsmoothness(Numeri),soft- as awintersuitingfabriccomparedto2/1twillweave The 2/2twillweavefabricgavebettergrading(THV) and lowerinplainwovenfabrics. higher inthe2/2twilland5endsatinwovenfabrics tions. Ithasbeenobservedfromtable6thatTHVare primary handvaluesusingKawabataSystemofequa- The totalhandvalueofthefabricisestimatedfrom woven fabrics. fabrics speciallyforC1andlowerB1,i.e.2/1twill that Fukuramivaluesarehigherfor2/2twillwoven bulk andcompressionalproperties.Ithasbeenobserved well-formed feelinganditmainlydependsonfabric Fukurami (Fullness&Softness)isthebulky, richand face smoothness. woven usingfineryarnshelpedinimprovingtheirsur- was observedthatirrespectiveoftheweave,fabrics fabrics, aidedinimprovingthesurfacesmoothness.It weave fabrics.Thelongfloatsinthetwillandsatin even surfacetopologycomparedtothetwillandsatin terlacing, inthefabricstructurepresentedamoreun- Plain wovenfabricsduetohighernumberofyarnin- the Numerivalueisless. that forsampleE1,NumerivalueishighandB1, for 5endsatinwovenfabrics.Ithasbeenobserved values arelowerfor2/1twillwovenfabricsandhigher is less.Numerimeanssurfacesmoothness. KOSHI islessfor A2 fabricsinceitsbendingrigidity Increase inbendingrigidityincreasesKOSHI.The Koshi increaseswithyarncountandweftdensity. weft yarn). According toM.Matsudairaet.al.[6], lower for A2 (plainwovenfabricmadewith1/56Nm 16 Nm weftyarns&lower forfabricwoveninplain higher forplainwovenfabric manufacturedfrom2/84 & satinwovenfabrics. Linearity ofcompressionis extensibility andmoregeometrical roughnessthantwill for allfabricsamples.Plainwovenfabricshavehigher The extensibilityinwarpdirectionishigherthanweft 4. Conclusion than twill&satinwovenfabrics. ture vapourtransportishigherforplainwovenfabrics Nm asaweftyarn.Thusitisobservedthatthemois- lower thanplainwovenfabrics,bothmadefrom1/56 ture vapourtransferof5endsatinwovenfabricsare sweat accumulationandhencediscomfort.Themois- fer isunabletotransfersufficientmoisture,leading ture transport. A fabricwithlowmoisturevapourtrans- through it.Highertheairresistance,lowerismois- transfer theperspirationinformofmoisturevapour Moisture vapourtransferistheabilityofafabricto ment, compressibilityandairpermeabilityoffabric. mal insulationarefibretype,bulkdensity, fibrearrange- the thermalinsulation.Otherfactorsaffectingther- Fabric thicknessisthemostimportantfactorgoverning the airresistance,loweristhermalinsulationvalue. woven fabricmadefrom1/48Nmasweftyarns.Higher made from2/84Nmasweftyarns&lowfor2/1twill mal insulationvalueishighfor2/2twillwovenfabric the effectofmaterialpropertiesonheattransfer. Ther- Thermal insulationisanimportantmeasureforanalysing enced bythermalinsulation. winter itshouldbeheatconservationwhichisinflu- ing insummershouldbeheatdissipation,whereas body andtheenvironment.Themainfunctionofcloth- major roleinmaintainingheatbalancebetweenthe insulation ofthefabric.Thethermalplaysa tance towindpenetrationwhichaffectsthethermal The airpermeabilityofafabricdeterminesitsresis- [15]. becauseoflowpackingdensitysinglyarn rics giveshigherairpermeabilityascomparedto2ply 1 twillwovenfabricB3.Sincesingleyarnfab- tance islowforplainwovenfabric A2 andhighfor2/ of poresareavailableforairpassage.Theresis- to compactstructureoffabric&hencelessernumber for twill&satinwovenfabrics.Thismaybeattributed It hasbeenobservedthattheairresistanceincreases properties ofallthefabricsamples. May -June2012 FABRIC technical modificationand qualitycontrol. could beusedintheproduct developmentprocessfor treatments. Ingeneral,theobjectiveevaluationtool touch bytheweavingprocessinsteadofusingfinishing erties, manufacturerswouldbeabletodesignspecific that mayexistbetweenfabricweaveandtactileprop- specific toenduserequirement.Knowingtherelations tion andyarncountsoastoachievecomfortproperties This studyprovidesavaluableinsightintoweaveselec- much economicandscientificway. alization ofspecificcomfortpropertiesthefabric in selection ofweaveandweftcountshouldleadtore- fort aspectofclothingmaterials. Accordingly aproper consumer andindustryarefocusingmoreonthecom- Comfort isanimportantaspectintoday'stermsasboth 5. Industrialimportance gives highestvaluesforthermalinsulation. is moreforplainwovenfabrics.2/2twillfabrics fabrics. Theairpermeability&moisturetransportrate The airresistanceismorefortwillandsatinwoven FUKURAMI, thuslowerTHV. THV. PlainwovenfabricsgiveslowerNUMERI& higher for2/2twill&5endsatin,thusgives and FUKURAMI(fullness&softness)valuesare lower forplainwovenfabrics.NUMERI(smoothness) KOSHI (stiffness)valuesarehigherfor2/1twill& smoothness. using fineryarnshelpedinimprovingtheirsurface plain fabrics.Irrespectiveoftheweave,fabricswoven thickness ishigherfor5endsatinwovenfabricsthan sional energyishigherforsatinwovenfabrics.Fabric as comparedtootherfabricsunderstudy. Compres- Coefficient offriction2/1twillwovenfabricsislower & hysteresisvalues. ues andplainwovenfabricsshowslessbendingrigidity fabrics showshigherbendingrigidity&hysteresisval- may bebecauseofhighweavedensity. 2/1twillwoven fabrics manufacturedwith1/48Nmweftyarns.This twill wovenfabricsanditishighestfor2/1 Shear rigidity&hysteresisofshearishigherfor2/1 woven &2/1twillfabrics. property &tensileenergyvaluesarehigherforplain weave with1/48Nmweftyarns.Linearityoftensile May -June2012 FABRIC 17 6 DentR.W., 16. 9 SueoKawabata,MasakoNiwa, Yoshihiro 19. 5 Yang K.,JiaoM.L.,Chen Y.S., LiJ.,Zhang W. 15. 8 BensaidS.,OsselinJ-F., SchacherL.and Adolphe 18. 7 .Hsieh Y.L., Yu B.,.HartzellM.M., 17. 4 PaekS.L., 14. NayakR.K.,PunjS.K.,ChatterjeeK.N.,Behera BeheraB.K,MishraR., 3. 2. 3 EmelOnder, FatmaKalaoglu,BulentOzipek, 13. Tyagi G.K., KrishnaG., BhattacharyaS.,Kumar 12. Dawes V. H.,OwenJ.D., 10. .OzcelikG., SupurenG., Gulumser T., Tarakcioglu 5. SenthilkumarP., DasaradanB.S., 1. References Ltd. Chhindwarafortheirhelpinsamplepreparation. The authorisalsogratefultothestaffofRaymond sary infrastructureformanufacturingthefabricsamples. Chhindwara forprovidingthefibres,yarnsandneces- The authorwouldliketothankRaymondLtd. Acknowledgement .MatsudairaM., 9. RadhakrishnaiahR., Tejatanalert S.,Sawhney A. Winakor G.,8. KimC.J., 7. 1 T.J.Mahar, P. Wheelwright, R.C.Dhingra, 11. SularV., Okur A., 4. .MatsudairaM.,NakanoK., YamazakiY., 6. (2008). Fuji, Japan,349. Yamashita, 27th Textile researchSymposium.Mt. Y., D., Journa Res Journal P., IJFTR, (1994). B.K., I., TX, Postle, P. S., Europe 62 100 HayashiY., Hayashi (2008). , 233,(1971). Fibres &Textiles inEasternEurope,

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34 , 697,(1992). , , Text ResJournal Journal ofText Inst ,137,(2009). 73 34 ,854, (2003). , 122,(2009). Journal ofText Inst Fibres &Textiles inEastern O., JournalofText Inst, , Text ResJ l, 63 , IJFTR 97 7 , (1990) ,573, (1993). Journal ofText Inst ,137, (2006). , 71 , , 581. , 796,(2001). , 32 IE(I) Journal- 601 , 72,(2007). , (1980). Text Res

r r r r 16 16 , 160, , 56, , 51, Text ,

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association madder tive dyecrops. Among thespeciesexamined,common ate thetechno-economicfeasibilityoftoday'salterna- research projectshavesofarbeencarriedouttoevalu- in thefood,cosmeticandtextilesectors[1,2].Several especially yelloworredpigments,israpidlyincreasing The worldwidedemandforcolorantsofnaturalorigin, 1. Introduction E-mail: Coimbatore -641004 Dept ofFashion Technology, PSGCollege of Technology, Parthiban M * Allcorrespondenceshouldbeaddressedto: (both mouldsandyeasts),bacteria,algaeplant potentiality ofotherbiologicalsourcessuchasfungi overcome thislimitation,itwassuggestedtoexploitthe high-value-added natural-coloredgarmentsonly. To price aboutUSD1/g,thuslimitingtheirapplication to of driedrawmaterial).Thismakestheircurrentmarket extraction yieldfactors(afewgramsofpigmentper kg natural dyesliesintheorderofmagnitudetheir thetic analogues.Themaindisadvantagesofthese exploited untilthecommercialsuccessoftheirsyn- erties [3,4].Infact,allthreedyeswereextensively their agronomiccharacteristicsorfordyeingprop- izarin), andyellow(luteolin)dyesrespectively, eitherfor L) provedtobequiteinterestingsourcesofred(al- Effect ofPlasma Treatment onColoration& Antibacterial Bacterial reduction,silk,fungalpigment,plasmatreatment&antibacterialactivity. Keywords treated samplesdoesnotshowedanyinfluencewithincreaseinthetreatmenttime. fungal extractatoptimumconditionsof60 properties andimpartsgoodantibacterialactivityforthedyedsilkfabricwhichwasusingnatural results showedthattheplasmapretreatedsamplesbringsbetterfixationlevels,improvementinfastness the parameterslikeK/S,washfastness,rubbinglightfastnessandbacterialreduction(%).The by varyingthetreatmenttimeonsilkfabricbeforedyeingwithnaturalfungalextractandtoanalyze for dyeingprocess.Themethodistomodifytheconventionalprocessusingplasmapretreatment from thespeciesofthermomyces,purifiedandcharacterizedusingUV-Vis andFTIRspectraused extract onsilkfabricbyusinglowtemperatureplasmatreatment.Thefungalpigmentswereextracted The presentstudyaimstoevaluatethecommercialpotentialityforimprovingdyeabilityofnatural Abstract [email protected] (Rubbia tinctorumL) Activity ofSilkFabricUsingNaturalFungalExtract Dept ofFashion Technology, PSGCollegeofTechnology , wood Parthiban M*&ThilagavathiG (Isatis tinctoria 0 C,30minatapHof3.Itwasalsoinferredthattheplasma 18 Bleached 100%silkfabric plainweave,yarncount60s 2.1 Materials 2. MaterialsandMethods pigmented samples. resistant characteristicsofthenaturalfungalextract plasma treatmentonthedyeingpotentialandmicrobe [10].This researchattemptedtostudytheinfluence of are theyellowpigmentsmonascinandankaflavin and monascorubramine,whereastheirreducedforms azoto analoguesaretheredpigmentsrubropunctamine ent sidechainsontheozolactonering[9].Theirtwo monascorubrin areorangepigments,presentingdiffer- been subdividedintothreegroups;rubropunctainand produced bythermomycesareoligoketidesandhave ders, stimulatedigestion,etc[8].Theseveralpigments cholesterol levels,preventgastricandintestinaldisor- medical therapytopromotebloodcirculationandproper ern andfareastern Asia, thelatterbeingalsousedin colorants andfermentedfoodsbeveragesinsouth- It hasbeentraditionallyusedformanufacturingfood fungus thermomyceshasbeenthoroughlystudied[7]. ducing micro-organismsdescribedintheliterature, wild organism[5,6]. Among theseveralpigment-pro- nificantly thepigmentproductionyieldswithrespectto netic engineeringtechniquesarelikelytoimprovesig- cultures, sinceappropriateselection,mutationorge- May -June2012 and isshowninFig2.1(a)&2.1(b). philized andthepoweredpigmentwasstoredat4ºC reduced toonethird.Thecondensedbrothwaslyo- After 8hoursofdrying,thevolumebrothwas a thinmuslinclothtoavoidcontaminationduedust. dust freechamber40ºC.Theplatewascoveredwith clean glasspetriplatesandplacedunderhotairina filter paper. Brothhavingthepigmentwastakenina 35ºC for5-7days;supernatantwasfilteredthroughthe inoculated ontopotatodextrosebrothandincubatedat species wasisolatedfromsoil.Thefungalcultureswere Extracellular pigmentproducingfungithermomyces ing process) 2.2.1 Extractionandestimationofpigment(air-dry- 2.2 Methods 8" forplasmapretreatmentbeforesubjectingtodyeing. used. Fabricswerepreparedinthedimensionsof8"X Ne with60ends/cm,30picks/cmand80gsmwas Plasma treatedsamplesfor 15sec,45sec,80secand pretreated silkfabric 2.2.4 Dyeingofnatural fungal extractonplasma three differenttimeperiodsof15sec,45secand80sec. cording toframesizesilk,fabriciscutandtreatedfor temperature andatmosphericpressurerespectively. Ac- pressure usedforthetreatmentofsilkfabricisroom using RFandDCsputteringunit.Thetemperature Low temperaturetreatmentofsilkfabricwasdone 2.2.3 Plasmapre treatment onsilkfabric dyeing process. treating withthenaturalfungalextractpigmentfor process. Thefabricwasinitiallypremordantedbefore natural mordantmyrobolanwaschosenforthedyeing ering theecofriendlinessandcosteffectiveness, neem oilwereidentifiedfortheaboveprocess.Consid- ferrous sulphateandnaturalmordantslikemyrobolan, Various syntheticmordants like stannouschloride,alum, 2.2.2 Selectionofmordant May -June2012 DYEING Figure 2.1(a)&(b):Samplesofextractedpigment a (b) (a) 19 were rinsedwithtapwateranddriedat60 temperature of30 The bathratiowas1:20.Mordantingdoneata mordant bathpreparedwith5%(owm)ofmyrobalan. following procedure.Samplesweresteepedinthe untreated samplearedyedusingnaturaldyebythe and tothis900mlof4/10 dilutedtestorganismwere four numberofsterilized eppendorf tubesweretaken organism waspreparedbyserialdilution technique. A organism wasusedforthestudy. 4/10dilutionofeach 0.01mg/ml). Twenty-four hoursoldcultureofeach the plantextract(10mg/ml,1mg/ml,0.1mg/mland tion. Thistestwasperformedatfourconcentration of growth oftestedpathogensataminimumconcentra- tration ofantibioticsorextractsthatdidnotshowany tory concentration)wasdefinedasthelowestconcen- method (Claeysetal.,1988)theMIC(minimuminhibi- thermomyces sp tivity ofthemethanolicextract The MICwasperformedtotesttheantimicrobialac- tration (MIC) 2.4.1 Determinationofminimuminhibitoryconcen- ing thezoneofinhibitionaroundwell. tibility ofthetestorganismwasdeterminedbymeasur- plates wereincubatedat37°Cfor24hr. The suscep- 100ml ofmethanolicextractandcrudeextract.The ile corkborerawellwasformed,andimpregnatedwith nutrient agarplatebyspreadmethod.Usingster- for 18-24hr. 0.01mlofculturebrothwasspreadon Bacterial strainsweregrowninnutrientbrothat37°C 2.4 Determinationofantibacterialactivity Match View software(X-Rite,USA)inD65daylight. using aMinolta508spectrophotometerwithMacbeth were analysedforthespectralvaluesK/Sdetermined (AATCC Test Method16-2004).Thedyedsamples (AATCC Test Method8-2007)andfastnesstolight Test Method61-2009),fastnesstorubbing/crocking using AATCC standards-fastnesstowashing(AATCC Color fastnesspropertiesofthesampleswereassessed various measurementsbystandardtestprocedures. The untreatedandtreatedsamplesweretestedfor 2.3 Testing min. of samplewasdoneat30 dye atpH4.5-5.5inpresenceofaceticacid.Dyeing that waspreparedby5%solution(owm)ofextracted were steepedinthedyebathwithliquortoratioof1:20 with tapwaterandsqueezed.Themordantedsamples and 0 C for20min.Sampleswererinsed chatomium sp. 0 Cfor20min.Thesamples usingtubedilution P.purpuroscens, 0 C for20

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association an hour, 50 quadrants. After incubationoftheeppendorftubesfor sion method,thepetriplatesweredividedinto4equal only themicrobialcells.Similartoagerwelldiffu- bers), nothingwasaddedsothatthetubescontained tube. Forthefourthsetofeppendorftubes(2num- was addedtothefirsttubeandseriallydilutelast 1- Thermomyces sp;2-P.purpuroscens; 3-Chaetomiumsp. NI -Noinhibition;I-Inhibition Table concentrationofthermomycessp,P.purpuroscens 3.1:Minimuminhibitory andChaetomium sp.againstpathogens for fungiand numbers), 0.1mlofthepositivecontrol, the lasttube.Forthirdsetofeppendorftubes(4 ethanol) wasaddedtofirsttubeandseriallydiluted (4 numbers),0.1mlofthenegativecontrol(100% the experiment.Forsecondsetofeppendorftubes samples. Simultaneously;controlswerealsokeptfor tubes waspreparedforeachorganismtest 0.1mg/ml, 0.01mg/ml).Likewise,asetofeppendorf the cultureextractwasobtained(10mg/ml,1mg/ml, The fourtubescorrespondingtoconcentrationsof extract wasaddedandseriallydilutedtothelasttube. added. To thefirsttube,0.1mlofpreparedculture lated asshownin Table 3.1. hibitory concentrationofthefungalextractwascalcu- each dilutionwasobservedandthustheminimumin- incubated for24hours.Thegrowthoftheorganism the petriplates.Theplateswerethencoveredand eooaoeIIII NI I I NI I NI I I NI I NI Ketoconazole Chloramphenicol Solvent control Control C.neoformans C.albicans 4 Dilution Fungi Salmonella typhi 3 Dilution Vibrio Cholerae Escherichia Coli bacteria Dilution 2 Gram negative B.cereus Bacillus subtilis Dilution1 Enterococcus bacteria Gram positive Pathogens l fromeachofthetubeswerespottedon chleorampheicol IIIN IN IN NI NI NI NI NI I NI NI NI NI NI NI NI NI NI NI I NI NI NI I NI NI NI NI NI NI NI NI NI I I NI NI I NI I I NI I NI I NI I NI I NI NI NI NI NI I NI NI NI I NI I I I I I NI I NI NI NI I NI NI I I I I I NI I I NI I I NI I I IIIIIIIININININImg/ml) (1 123123123123 (10mg/ml) forbacteria(10mg/ml) ketaconazole 20 Hence, thedurabilityofnaturalfungalextracted gal extractedpigmentsontothesilkfabricspecimen. of fixationanddepthpenetrationthenaturalfun- that theplasmatreatedsamplesinfluencesdegree to 45and60secondstreatedsamples.Itisinferred sample showsoverallgoodfastnessratingscompared from thevariousplasmatreatedsamples,15s the untreatedsample.FromTable 3.3,itisinferredthat treated samplesexhibitgoodratingscomparativelyto The colorfastnessvaluesoflowtemperatureplasma ness 3.2 Effectofplasmatreatedsamplesoncolorfast- treatment. fungal dyedsampleisgreatlyinfluencedbytheplasma men. Hence,therelativecolorstrengthofnatural ral fungalextractedpigmentsonthesilkfabricspeci- samples increasesthedepthofabsorptionnatu- onds treatedsamples.Itprovesthattheplasma shows greaterK/Svaluecomparedto45and60sec- the variousplasmatreatedsamples,15ssample treated sample.FromTable 3.2,itisinferredthatfrom samples showbetterresultscomparativelytotheun- The K/Svalueoflowtemperatureplasmatreated 3.1 EffectofplasmatreatedsamplesonK/Svalue 3. ResultsandDiscussion 01m/l (0.01mg/ml) (0.1 mg/ml) May -June2012 DYEING the pathogenicbacterialreductiontoagreaterextent. treatment, naturalmordantandpigmentalsoinfluences cation. Theresultsinferthatapartfromtheplasma teria, itcanbeabettersolutionforthemedicalappli- bacterial reduction%forbothpositive&nigativebac- silk fabricspecimen. As plasmatreatmentexhibitsgood activity ofthenaturalfungalextractedpigmenton plasma treatedsamplesinfluencestheantibacterial and 60secondstreatedsamples.Itisinferredthatthe ria) and rial reduction%withrespectto samples, 15streatedsampleshowsoverallgoodbacte- 3.4, itisinferredthatfromthevariousplasmatreated comparatively totheuntreatedsample.From Table treated samplesexhibitgoodbacterialreduction% The antibacterialactivityoflowtemperatureplasma rial activity 3.3 Effectofplasmatreatedsamplesonantibacte- to plasmapretreatment. dyed silkfabricsamplescanbeincreasedbysubjecting samples Table 3.3:Color Fastnessvaluesofplasmapretreated dyed 0.337 sample Untreated Table 3.2:K/Svalueofplasmapretreated dyedsamples May -June2012 DYEING ape8 e - - 4-5 5-6 3-4 7-8 3-4 4- 5 2-3 sec 80 3-4 sample 4-5 45 sec treated sec 15 Plasma Untreated apeWs ubn Light Rubbing Wash Sample ape8 e 0.411 0.531 sec 80 45 sec sec 15 sample treated Plasma Texttreasure successful orhappy. dence inyourownpowers youcannotbe ties! Without ahumblebutreasonable confi- Believe inyourself!Havefaithyourabili- apeK/Svalue Sample S.aureus

ape23342-3 3-4 2-3 sample (positivebacteria)ascomparedto45 ates atesfastness fastness

- NormanVincent Peale E.coli (nigativebacte- 0.478 21 samples Table 3.4: Antibacterial activityofplasmapretreated dyed groups inthefungalpigment. confirms thepresenceof proteinandcarbohydrate absorbance ofthespecimenbetween250-300nmwhich was recorded.Thespectrumshowsthatthemaximum using aUV-Visible spectrometerandtheabsorbance extract wasdeterminedinawiderangeofspectra From theFigure3.1,opticaldensityofpigment Figure 3.1:UV-Vis Spectraofextractedfungalpigment 3.4 Characterizationofpigmentfromthermomyces apeBacterialreduction(%) Sample ape8 e 4 47% 41% 50% 44% 48% 80 sec 43% 45 sec sample 47% 15 sec 45% treated Plasma sample Untreated oiaureus coli Escherichia Staphylococcus

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association compared to45and80streatedsamples.Hence,plasma to begoodfor15secplasmapretreatedsilkfabric fastness ratingsandantimicrobialactivitywerefound untreated silkfabricspecimen.Colourstrength,colour plasma pretreatedsilkfabricexhibitbetterresultsthan tent. Theresultsshowedthatthelowtemperature bacterial reduction(%)ofsilkfabrictoagreaterex- wash fastness,rubbinglightfastnessand low temperatureplasmatreatmentimprovestheK/S, terial efficacyofsilkfabric.Itwasconcludedthatthe levels ofnaturalfungalextractedpigmentandantibac- ture plasmatreatmentforimprovementindyefixation surface modificationofsilkfabricusinglowtempera- activity wereanalyzed.Thereportwasfocusedonthe coloring behavior, fastnessresultsandantibacterial natural fungalextractthermomycesandtheeffectof treatment withdifferentdurationsandcoloredusingthe 100% silkfabricwasgivenlowtemperatureplasma 4. Conclusion fibres wasconfirmed. the observationaffinityofsampletowardsprotein confirms thepresenceofC=O(str)group.Hence,from group. Theabsorptionintheregion1500-1750cm 3000-3500 cmconfirmsthepresenceofN-H(str) From thefollowingFig3.2,absorptioninregion Figure 3.2:FTIRabsorptionspectra Contact ustoknowmore aboutJTA E-mail:[email protected], [email protected] Tel.: 022-24461145, Fax:022-24474971 Mobile:+91-22-9819801922

Publisher 22 .RekbayS.M.,Ecofriendlydyeingofnaturalfab- 7. Palanivel V. andVellingiri B.,Naturalpigmentex- 6. .AnnaMariaG. andDianaDeS., Assessment of 5. 0 Tabloka W. and Yongsmith B.,Cultureconditions 10. Baranova M.andBurdova.,Effectofnaturalpig- 8. .PerumalK.andStanley A., Extraction anddyeing 9. .Naoko T. andSanaeC.,Magentapigmentpro- 4. .AkiraS.andHiroe Y., Isolationofbacteriapro- 3. .Gulrajani,M.L.,Presentstatusofnaturaldyes,in 1. References mask, sutures&surgicaldrapes. medical applicationtodevelopwounddressing,face be moreeco-friendlyinnatureanditcanusedfor crease inthetreatmenttime&processprovesto treated samplesdoesnotshowanyinfluencewithin- .Perumal,K.andStalin V., Extractionandcharac- 2. rics, Polymers applications anddyeingofleather, traction fromfivefilamentousfungiforindustrial purpureu, dyeing propertiesofpigmentsfromMonascus 201, (2006). World JMicrobial for yellowpigmentsformationbymonascussp, J MycolPl.Pathol lucidum, coriolusversicolor&amanitamuscaria, performance offungalpigmentfromganoderma 48 characters ofprocessedcheeses,(BVIPulawy), ment ofMonascuspurpureusontheorganoleptic duced byfungus, T ducing bluish-purplepigmentandusefordyeing, "Convention onnaturaldyes"(IITDelhi), use indyeingcotton", terization ofpigmentsfromSclerotiniasp.andits (2002). ext ResJ , (2004). J ofTex Inst , (2009). J chem.technol.Biotechnol , 67 , (2005). , 1,(2008). , J Gen. Appl. Microbial 63 , 34(2) , 2671,(1997). Text ResJ , 214. May -June2012 , 79 Carbohydrate , (2009). DYEING , (2005). r r r r , 52 10 , , E-mail : I.C.T., N.P. Marg, Matunga, Mumbai. Department ofFiber& Textile Processing Technology M.D. Teli, *All correspondenceshouldbe addressedto: cutch andredfromlac,safflowermadder. Thus, indigo, yellowfromturmericandsaffron,brown expressed that,theancientcraftsmandyedblueform low, blue,blackandwhiteasmaindyeing coloursand natural dyesisontherise. Vedas mentionedred,yel- (preferably naturalfibreproduct)dyedwitheco-friendly newed interestofconsumerstowardsusetextiles of eco-friendlyproductsisbeinggeneratedandare- worldwide, growingconsciousnessaboutorganicvalue pose concernsregardingtheireco-friendliness.Hence, chemical sourcesthroughhazardousprocesses the syntheticcolourantsbeingsynthesizedfrompetro- shifted towardsuseofsyntheticcolourants. Almost all cost advantages,mostoftextiledyers/manufacturers ability ofpuresyntheticdyesdifferenttypesandits were inventedandcommercialized.Duetoreadyavail- colours ofnaturalsourceuntilsyntheticcolours/dyes past, thispurposeofcolouringtextilewasinitiatedusing value addition,lookanddesireofthecustomers.In Textile material(naturalandsynthetic)iscolouredfor 1. Introduction May -June2012 DYEING Self &MixedShadesofCatechuandHennaonCotton Harda, Catechu,Henna,Naturaldyeing. Keywords following thisapproach. compound shadesofnaturaldyesandtheissuelimitedavailabilitycanbeovercome were describedintermsofcolourvalues.Thewiderangeshadesthuscanbeclaimeddyeingthe as anaturalmordant.ThepHsensitivityofthesedyeswasalsoscreened.variousshadesobtained silk wasattemptedusingindividualandmixedshadesofcatechuhennaharda(Myrobalan) practiced asfarnaturaldyesareconcerned.Inthecurrentstudy, thenaturaldyeingofcottonand to getdesiredshadesisacommonpracticeincaseofsyntheticdyes,whichhoweverstillnot limited availabilityofshadesishailedasonethemainlimitationsoversyntheticdyes.Mixingdyes dyes. Eventhoughthenaturaldyeinghasbeenadvantageousinmanywaysoversyntheticdyes,their increase inawarenessaboutsustainableenvironmentprotectionandproblemsassociatedwithsynthetic From ancienttimesnaturaldyesareknown,buttheyagaingainingincreasingimportancedueto Abstract [email protected] M.D Teli*, JavedSheikh,KushalkumarMahalle, Vijendra Labade DepartmentofFibresand Textile ProcessingTechnology, I.C.T., Silk usingHardaasaMordant Adiv-The PureNatural & RupaTrivedi 23 ated withsomeofthesynthetic dyes. As aresult, ards likeallergenicityand, carcinogenecityareassoci- nature. Inadditiontoabove, someserioushealthhaz- ther toxicdegradedproductsortheirnon-biodegradable mental awarenessandharmfuleffectsbecauseof ei- dyes isgraduallyrecedingduetoanincreasedenviron- But, duringthelastfewdecades,useofsynthetic costs perkgofdyedgoodswasachieved[12]. tion. As aresult, adistinctloweringinthedyestuff quality andmorereproducibletechniquesofapplica- the twentiethcenturyledtoamorecompletelevel of The developmentofsyntheticdyesatthebeginning of in theabovesources[9-11]. tiful naturalcoloursrangingfromyellowtoblackexists without anychemicaltreatment. A spectrumofbeau- and minerals(e.g.,ferroussulfate,ochre,clay) animals (e.g.,somespeciesofmollusksorshellfish); sects (e.g.,cochinealbeetlesandlacscaleinsects); sources suchasplants(e.g.,indigoandsaffron);in- Natural dyesarederivedfromnaturallyoccurring since timeimmemorial[1-8]. natural dyeshavebeenanintegralpartofhumanlife

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association plored. Theselfandmixed shadesofcatechuandhenna dyes togetdifferentshades isstillremainedunex- dyes andthemordants, areaofmixingnatural natural dyeingoftextilefibres usingvarietyofnatural Even thoughalotofresearchhasbeencarriedout on be toxic,lowersnaturaldye'secofriendlyadvantage. the useofmetallicmordantswhichareconsidered to though naturaldyeingisconsideredtobeecofriendly, mordant andolive-brownswithacoppermordant.Even brown colour. Cutchgivesgray-browns withaniron sails. Cutchdyeswool,silk,andcottoninayellowish- tanning anddyeingforpreservingfishingnets Catechu isabrowndyenamedascutchandusedfor [17]. with ferrous.Thelightfastnessofdyedfabricsisgood copper, mustardyellowwithchrome andblackishbrown silk; camelbrownwithaluminium,yellowochre metal salts,itproducesarangeofcoloursonwooland and impartsanorange-redcolour. Incombinationwith is tobedyed.Itactslikeasubstantivedyeforkeratin erally pastedwithwaterandappliedtothatpartwhich fungal. Forcolourationpurpose,hennamaterialisgen- and preservativeforleathercloth,asananti- mon beingasadyeforhair, skinandfingernails,adye many traditionalandcommercialuses,themostcom- Dyeing withhennaisknownforlongtime.Hennahas densed tannins[16]. chemical structureashydrolysabletanninsandcon- further classifiedintotwogroupsonthebasisoftheir ionic strengthandmetalchelators. Tannins maybe bility ofthetannintreatedfibredependsuponpH, between proteinsandothermacromolecules.Thesta- hydroxyl groupsandtheyenableeffectivecross-links compounds (between500to3000)containingphenolic natural mordantswhicharehighmolecularweight dyeing oftextileswithnaturaldyes,tanninsareusedas such astannins,metallicsaltsandoils[15].Inthe and hencemustbeusedinconjunctionwithmordants Natural dyeswithfewexceptionsarenon-substantive act asahealthcareproducts[14]. present nohealthhazardsandsomeofthemsometimes they areobtainedfromrenewableresourcesand tion controls,naturaldyesaregainingimportanceas creasing awarenessofenvironmentalissuesandpollu- azodyes) containingbannedamines[13].Duetoin- and Indiaontheuseofsomesyntheticdyes(e.g. European EconomicCommunity(EEC),Germany, USA ban hasbeenimposedallovertheworldincluding 24 The dyeingprocedurewas sameasdescribedin2.2.3. total dyeextractrequired forthetargeted%shade. henna takeninproportion30:70, 50:50,and70:30ofthe then dyedusingcombination oftwodyescatechuand dure mentionedin2.2.3.Themordantedsampleswere mordanted usingalumasamordantpertheproce- In caseofcompoundshades,thefabricswere Com 2.2.4. with coldwater. After dyeing,thefabricsweresqueezedandwashed dyebath anddyeingwascontinuedat900Cfor60min. and henna).Themordantedfabricswereintroduced in was squeezedanddyedusingnaturaldyes(catechu temperature for60min. After mordantingthefabric raised to95oC.Themordantingwascontinuedatthis at roomtemperatureandslowlythewas fabrics wereintroducedintothemordantsolution(harda) Mumbai) keepingtheliquortomaterialratioof30:1.The in rotadyer(RotaDyermachine,Rossari®Labtech, The modantingofcottonandsilkfabricwascarriedout 2.2.3. Mordanting anddyeingofcottonsilk dyeing. extract wasfilteredandmadeto250mlusedfor boiling 2.5gofdyein250mlwaterfor30min.The The 1%stocksolutionofthedyewaspreparedby 2.2.2. Extractionofdye for mordanting. The extractwasfilteredandmadeto250mlused mordant (harda)powderin250mlwaterfor30min. The 1%stocksolutionwasmadebyboiling2.5gmof 2.2.1. Extractionofmordant 2.2. Methods chemicals usedwereoflaboratorygrade. and hennawerepurchasedfrommarket. All other and reethaat600Cthenusedfordyeing.Catechu Natural. Thecottonfabricwaswashedusingshikakai Cotton andsilkfabricsweresuppliedby Adiv-the Pure 2.1. Materials 2. MaterialandMethods wide rangeofshadesexploredhavebeenpresented. and compoundshadesofcatechuhennathe been attemptedusinghardaasamordantbothinself current studythenaturaldyeingofcottonandsilkhas our laboratory[18].Incontinuationofthework,in using alumasamordantwerereportedearlierfrom pound shadesoncottonandsilk May -June2012 DYEING cording toISO105/B02[20]. Thelightfastnesswas Dyed fabricwastestedfor colourfastnesstolightac- Light fastness 2.2.8. fair; 3:good;4:verygoodand5:excellent). respective standardscales(rating1:5;where1:poor; 2: staining ontheundyedsampleswereevaluated and drying,thechangeincolourofsample to materialratioof50:1inrotamachine. After rinsing samples weretreatedfor45minat500Cusingliquor g/L soapsolutionwasusedasthewashingliquor. The out usingISOIImethods[19]. A solutioncontaining5 Evaluation ofcolourfastnesstowashingwascarried Washing fastness 2.2.7. variations. these parametersenablesonetounderstandthetonal =yellow, -ve=blue). As awhole,combinationofall ve =green)andb*totheyellow-bluecoordinate(+ve 0= black),a*tothered-greencoordinate(+ve=red,- fabric. L*correspondingtothebrightness(100=white, the K/Svalue,higherdepthofcolouron the RayscanSpectrascan5100+.Ingeneral,higher of CIELABcolourspace(L*,a*andb*)valuesusing Dyed fabricsweresimultaneouslyevaluatedinterms ficient the Absorption coefficient &SistheScattering coef- where, Risthereflectanceatcompleteopacity;K 2R (1-R)2 expression; accessories. TheK/Svaluesweredeterminedusing Rayscan Spectrascan5100+equippedwithreflectance The absorbanceofthedyedsampleswasmeasuredon colour byreflectancemethodusing10degreeobserver. The dyedsampleswereevaluatedforthedepthof Colour value by r 2.2.6. soda ash). different pH(4,7,and9adjustedusingaceticacid mentioned in2.2.3.andusingcatechuandhennaat dyeing wasthencarriedoutusingsameprocedureas mordant inthesamewayasmentioned2.2.3.The the fabricsamplesweremordantedusingalumasa In thecaseofpHsensitivitystudynaturaldye, Henna 2.2.5. May -June2012 DYEING K/S = Effect ofpHondyeingCatechuand eflectance method 25 and 20%respectivelyincaseofmixingdyes. concentration ofhardaanddyesweretakenas20% obtained incaseofcatechuandhenna,theoptimum such mordantdyes.Sincethedifferentresultswere NH2 groupsinthesilkwhichhavemoreaffinityfor than cotton,whichisinturnwasduetopresenceof- higher mordantanddyeabsorptionbythesilkfabric higher thanthoseincotton.Thismightbebecauseof values. Inthecaseofsilkfabrics,K/Svalueswere did notcontributemuchintheimprovementK/S either mordantordyebeyondoptimumconcentration optimum wasreached.Theincreasingconcentrationof with mordantanddyeconcentrationinitiallytillthe mordant andthedye.HenceK/Swasimproved natural dyesisacombinedcontributionoftheeffect catechu andhenna.Thecolourvalueinthecaseof varying concentrationofalumandnaturaldyesboth shades fromlighttodeepcanbeobtainedusingthe in dyeconcentrationfrom5%to20%.Thevarious the K/Swasalsofoundtobeimprovingwithincrease it isleveledoff. At theconstantmordantconcentration, increasing concentrationofmordanttill15%andthen Table 3.1indicatetheincreaseinK/Svalueswith results aresummarizedinTables 3.1-3.4. The resultsin henna usinghardaasamordantwasattemptedand Hence thedyeingofcottonandsilkwithcatechu effect ofmixingdyesandpHsensitivitythedye. tion ofmordantanddyetofurtherstudythe The initialattemptwastofindtheoptimumconcentra- 3. ResultsandDiscussion using testmethod. :excellent).The colourfastnesstolightwasmeasured good; 5:better;6very7bestand8 (ratings, 1:8;where1:poor;2fair;3:moderate;4 pared withthestandardscaleofbluewoolreading filter, wavelength,k=420nm.Thesampleswerecom- of theairintestingchamberas40%anddaylight standard temperatureof650Cwithrelativehumidity light source,Q-SunXenon Testing Chamberwithblack determined usingartificialilluminationwithXenonarc Texttreasure it isathingtobeachieved. ter ofchoice;Itisnotathingtobewaitedfor, Destiny isnotamatterofchance,itmat- - William JenningsBryan

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association centration oncolourstrengthofsilk Table ofmordant(harda)anddye(catechu)con- 3.2:Effect tration oncolourstrengthofsilk Table ofmordant(harda)anddye(Henna)concen- 3.1:Effect 0 0 .797.9 .6 21.659 4.468 21.285 73.494 4.637 19.584 3.4709 72.806 19.338 4.242 3.3173 6.501 20% 71.427 21.923 1.7514 69.957 15% 5.033 1.7442 20% 21.248 10% 72.992 4.713 20% 18.465 3.3764 17.226 5% 72.643 3.395 20% 2.7664 4.106 20% 74.369 20% 20.781 1.8854 72.16 15% 4.253 1.1214 15% 21.243 19.049 10% 75.349 4.566 15% 2.9972 3.644 5% 75.267 18.98 74.508 15% 3.0036 4.878 20% 20.567 15% 2.04 72.697 4.052 15% 19.83 1.5076 10% 75.664 4.132 10% 19.227 3.4147 10% 16.564 74.732 4.232 5% 2.3413 10% 4.52 20% 73.929 1.8807 71.307 10% 15% 1.0675 5% 10% 5% 5% 5% 5% value co-ordinates CIEcolour Catechu Colour Harda Dye Mordant 0 0 .697.2 .4 18.174 3.445 15.749 72.321 3.243 16.553 4.5659 17.24 70.441 2.796 4.2269 2.167 20% 71.696 18.638 3.4945 72.666 15% 3.614 2.9208 20% 16.601 10% 72.413 3.1204 20% 3.08 5% 14.285 71.946 2.7769 20% 2.872 20% 70.74 17.168 2.7605 20% 68.959 15% 3.842 3.5648 17.813 15% 10% 70.417 3.352 16.883 3.1236 15% 5% 14.842 71.205 3.082 3.9133 15% 16.925 3.161 20% 70.898 4.491 2.1326 15% 68.993 15% 17.413 2.7363 10% 69.21 4.572 10% 2.0235 10% 69.545 5% b* 1.9353 20% 10% 1.3651 15% a* 10% 1.3651 10% 5% L* 5% 5% 5% K/S Henna 5% CIEcolourco-ordinates Alum Colour Dye Mordant / *a b* a* L* K/S value 68.116 68.116 3.804 14.34 2.941 14.34 2.941 18.311 26 0 %169 02807314.264 0.703 14.255 70.228 1.465 1.6197 14.027 69.471 1.235 14.287 1.6863 5% 69.571 13.621 0.917 1.3617 0.917 20% 70.092 14.286 1.4494 20% 69.388 15% 1.696 1.3931 14.352 15% 10% 69.418 1.131 14.092 13.889 1.5712 15% 5% 69.837 0.916 1.442 1.4508 15% 20% 69.746 14.215 69.18 13.954 1.3813 15% 0.315 15% 1.388 1.27 10% 70.556 10% 13.582 1.3627 10% 69.46 13.542 1.181 5% 1.5592 b* 0.633 10% 20% 69.183 1.2884 69.653 10% 15% a* 1.2958 5% 10% L* 5% 5% 5% K/S Henna 5% CIEcolourco-ordinates Colour Harda Dye Mordant tration oncolourstrengthofcotton Table ofmordant(harda)anddye(henna)concen- 3.3:Effect 0 0 .936.6 .7 14.434 1.777 14.222 69.569 14.074 1.583 1.6933 1.161 69.462 1.5538 69.647 centration oncolourstrengthofcotton 20% Table ofmordant(harda)anddye(catechu)con- 34:Effect 1.543 15% 20% 10% 20% 20% 0 5 .465.3 .9 19.399 8.899 18.778 1.7252 19.521 58.935 8.218 2.9446 7.967 58.876 20% 19.125 2.3949 59.669 19.893 15% 6.739 2.6168 20% 9.501 60.196 10% 18.623 1.9641 20.082 59.363 20% 5% 6.893 2.654 20% 8.35 59.291 20% 18.165 1.7252 59.482 20% 6.413 15% 2.3438 15% 59.304 10% 18.979 1.7684 20.234 15% 58.258 9.253 5% 3.4222 18.941 15% 8.89 58.121 20% 6.941 2.3735 59.497 15% 15% 2.1413 59.453 20.164 10% 12.878 10% 1.717 57.858 10% 18.667 5% 2.9036 10.728 57.689 10% 20% 1.8147 57.283 15% 10% 2.6033 10% 5% 5% 5% 5% 5% value co-ordinates CIEcolour Catechu Colour Harda Dye Mordant value / *a b* a* L* K/S 59.611 May -June2012 .5 18.579 6.854 11.145 9.021 DYEING 20.212 17.811 summarized inTable 3.6. optimum concentration)wasstudiedandtheresultsare catechu andhennadyeshardaasmordant(with The effectofpHondyeingcottonandsilkwith catechu. obtained rangingfromtypicalredofhennatobrown henna. Howeverthedifferenttonesinshadeswere concentration ofcatechuwasincreasedatthecost The resultsclearlyindicateincreaseinK/Svalueas strength ofsilkandCotton Table ofcombinationtwodyes(w/w)oncolour 3.5:Effect are summarizedin Table 3.5. nations ofcatechuandhennawithhardaasamordant The compoundshadesoncottonandsilkusingcombi- values. as neutralpHweremore suitableforenhancedK/S pared tothoseatpH7and pH9.Theacidicaswell i.e. atpH4,higherK/S values wereobtainedcom- obtained anditwasobservedthatinacidicconditions At differentpHconditionsvaluesofK/Swere Table ofpHoncolour 3.6:Effect strengthofsilkandcotton May -June2012 DYEING otnHna4135 86147415.928 4.794 58.621 1.3253 4 Henna b* 22.19 Cotton 5.43 a* 59.116 5.5463 L* 4 K/S pH Henna Silk Dye Fabric 16.099 17.036 58.412 6.3655 27.361 9.767 70% 59.398 b* 4.3594 30% a* 70% Cotton L* 30% K/S Silk HennaCatechu Fabric en .235.2 .3 14.655 16.326 5.239 9 57.627 Catechu 5.257 7 1.6223 59.215 Catechu 4 1.4016 9 Catechu 7 Henna 21.712 Henna 21.216 4.533 9 57.981 Catechu 5.091 7 3.2549 57.849 Catechu 4 4.3932 9 Catechu 7 Henna Henna 0 0 .645.5 07115.526 16.532 10.731 17.033 59.757 3.6634 58.89 5.096 30% 26.461 11.348 27.514 50% 56.957 70% 9.506 3.9368 58.268 50% 4.2312 30% 50% 70% 50% .326.481 18.783 8.14 18.728 61.64 15.841 16.598 2.0322 57.558 13.285 4.0475 55.662 4.2349 25.453 8.53 30.663 54.394 11.238 32.778 6.9318 59.358 10.399 5.4159 60.347 5.3519 27 .Samanta, A. K. andKonar, A., DyeingofTextiles 1. References even withtheuseofcombinationdyes. fastness propertiesseemedtohaveremainedunchanged shades werepossibletoobtainatdifferentpH.The and encouragingresultswereobtaineddifferent different dyesandmordantcombinationisalsostudied gamut wasobtained.EffectofpHoncolourdepths of The resultsareencouragingaswiderangeofshade dyes suchashennaandcatechuhardamordant. Compound shadesareobtainedusingcombinationsof 4. Conclusion dependant onhighermordantand/ordyeconcentration. proving withhigherK/Svalues,whichinturnwas excellent grade.Lightfastnesswasfoundtobeim- ing fastnessesobtainedvariedintherangeofgoodto played incaseofdyeingwithnaturaldyes.Thewash- centration clearlyindicatethepositiveroleofmordant improvements infastnesspropertieswithmordantcon- improved withincreasingmordantconcentrations.The dyes andtheirmixtures.Thefastnesspropertieswere were foundtobecomparableinthecaseofboth of "good"to"excellent"(3-5).Thefastnessproperties "excellent" (4-5).Therubbingfastnesswasintherange The washfastnesswasofthegrade"verygood"to Table 3.7:Fastnessproperties ofthedyedfabrics were estimatedandarepresentedinTable 3.7. The fastnesspropertiesoftherepresentativesamples otn0104436 3 4 6 4 3 100 4 0 Cotton 4-5 100 0 Silk arcHnaCtcuWsigRbigLight Rubbing Washing Catechu Henna Fabric University ofCalcutta,India. bre Technology, InstituteofJuteTechnology, with NaturalDyes, 0 - - 5 3-4 5 6 3-4 6 4-5 3-4 3-4 4-5 4-5 4 5 4 6 4 3-4 6 3-4 4 6 0 3-4 4-5 30 4 100 4 3 50 70 4 70 4 50 4 4 30 4 0 30 4 100 50 70 70 50 30 % % atesfsns fastness fastness Fastness (%) (%) Department ofJuteandFi- r Wet Dry

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association .Kadolph,S., 2. .Saravanan,P. andChandramohan,G., 4. Chengaiah,B.,Rao,K.M.,Kumar, K.M., 3. .Kumaresan,M.,Palanisamy, P. N.andKumar, 5. .Sasson, A, Gupta,S.S., 9. 8. Anderson,B.,CreativeSpinning, Weaving and 7. Gulrajani,M.L.andGupta,D.,Introductionto 6. 0 Vankar, P., Chemistry ofNaturalDyes(IIT, 10. • • • TAI appealsfor bywayof; active participation topics andpaneldiscussionswhichhithertonotcoveredsofar. beaurocrates, whowillbespeciallyvisitingforattendingIndia-ITMEExhibition.TheConferencecover who intendstovisitIndiaITMEExhibitionlistenglobalexpertsaswellseniortextilemagnetsincluding Exhibition, whichwillbeheldfrom2ndto7thDecember2012.Thiswonderfulopportunitythose Conference willprovideaDouble Treat tothetextileprofessionalsasitwillcoincidewithIndia-ITME Grand MarathaSaharRoad, Andheri (E),Mumbai. with TAI CentralOffice on30thNovember &1stDecember2012(FridaySaturday)atHotelInternational The Textile Association (India)-MumbaiChapterishosting68th All IndiaTextile Conferenceinassociation 68th ALL INDIA TEXTILE CONFERENCE 68th ALLINDIATEXTILE 75 (1), nology, Journal ofEnvironmental Research andTech- (2010). Journal ofPharmTech Research, Alagusundaram, M.,Chetty, C.M.,International search, 2(1), P. E., 24?28, (1971). Plant Dyeing, Angus andRobinsonpublications, Delhi), (1992). Natural Dyes(IndianInstituteof Technology, Kanpur), (2000). 200-204, (1993). Encouraging maximumfriendstoregisterasdelegates Inserting theadvertisementinSouvenir&Book ofPapers Accepting tobeSponsororPatronthisevent 14-17,(2008).

International Journal of Chemistry Re- International JournalofChemistry 1(3), Australasian Biotechnology, 268-273,(2008). Clothsline, The DeltaKappaGammaBulletin, 11-14, (2011). 67, RanadeRoad,Dadar(W),Mumbai-400028 (India)

Tel.: +912224461145 Fax: +912224474971 6(12), Pathare House,NexttoState BankofIndia, THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION(INDIA) 97,(1993). The Textile (India) Association

www.textileassociationindia.org 2(1), Mail: [email protected] For moredetailscontact 144-154, Universal

3(4) , 28 4 Prabhu,K.H., Teli, M.D.andWaghmare, 14. Kumary, J.K.andSinha, A.K., 13. Bechtold, T., Turcanu, A., Ganglberger, E.,Geissler, 12. KS., Ladda, A Text BookofPharmacogonosy, 11. 6 Khanbabaee,K.and Van Ree,T., 16. Vankar, P.S., 15. 0 ISOtechnicalmanual,Geneva,Switzerland,(2006). 20. Trotmann, E.R.,DyeingandChemical Technology 19. Teli, M.D.,Sheikh,J.,Mahale,K.,Labade, V. 18. http://www.underutilized-species.org/species/bro- 17. Letters, (2003). S., 3rd Ed., Vrinda publications,213,(2003). bers andPolymers, Company ltd.,(1984). of Textile Fibres,England:CharlesGriffin and and Trivedi,R., chures/Henna_.pdf, assessedon15thJune2012. uct Reports, Journal ofCleanerProduction,

18(1),

18, Resonance, 59-84,(2004). 641-649,(2001). Asian Dyer,

12(6),

5 753-759,(2011). (10), 73-80,2000. Accepted paper. Accepted May -June2012 Natural Product Natural Prod-

11, DYEING 499-509, r r r r N., Fi- E-mail: SGGS InstituteofEngineering & Technology Nanded of TextileDepartment Technology R. N.Joshi * Allcorrespondenceshouldbeaddressedto: estimating theproductivityandefficiencyofcom- performer. Oneofthewaysdoingthiscouldbe and theirindividualrankincomparisonwiththetop understand howmuchimprovementhastakenplace continuously andcomparewiththebenchmarks to tivity. Thisimprovementisalsorequired tomeasure the continuousimprovementbyenhancingproduc- ductivity. Therefore, theneedistoleadcompanyin ments withacompetitivepricebyincreasingthepro- a lotofpressureonthemanufacturertoproducegar- growing domesticandinternationalcompetitionhasput of garmentproducershasbecomechallenging.The world textileandclothingmarket.Inthisscenario,job ties aswellchallengestovariousplayersinthe tariff. As aresult,thegarment tradeoffers opportuni- as theyareable,subjectedonlytoasystemofnational from anycountry. Suppliersarefreetoexportasmuch free tosourcetextilesandgarmentsinanyamount now fullyintegratedintothe WTO. Now, buyersare January 1,2005,thetextileandgarmentindustrieshave Agreement (MFA) intextilesandgarmentsfrom With theeliminationofallremainingquotasMulti 1. Introduction May -June2012 CLOTHING Efficiency andProductivity Analysis oftheIndianGarment nical efficiency. Data envelopmentanalysisgarmentindustry, Malmquistproductivityindex,Multifibreagreement, Tech- Keywords period. and efficiency oftheIndiangarmentcompaniesduringMultiFibre Agreement phaseoutandpost and productivityofanydecision-makingentity, hasbeenappliedinthispapertoestimatetheproductivity technique, whichtakesintoaccounttheweightedsumofalloutputsandinputstomeasureefficiency consider allinput-outputbundlestogether, thelinearprogrammingbasedDataEnvelopment Analysis produced peroperatorandmachineareusedasproductivitymeasures. As thesemeasuresdonot their performancecontinuouslyandcomparewiththebenchmarks.Generally, thenumbersofgarments garments withacompetitivepricebyincreasingtheproductivity. Inthisscenario,theyhavetoevaluate The recentglobalizationscenariohasputalotofpressureonthegarmentmanufacturerstoproduce Abstract [email protected] Industry DuringMFAIndustry Phase-OutandPostPeriod SGGS InstituteofEngineering&Technology Department ofTextile Technology, R. N.Joshi 29 a timeitiscalledasefficiency andwhenoveraperiod time. Whenitismeasured usingcrosssectionaldataat bundle andreferstothechange intheproductivityover an indexofoutputbundle divided byanindexofinput appropriate incontextofresourceuseefficiency. Itis the conceptoftotalfactorproductivity(TFP)ismore not considertheseinputbundlesaltogether. Therefore, other rawmaterials,electricpowerandfuel.PFPcan are machineoperators,stitchingmachines,fabricand In fact,ingarmentproduction,essentialinputsrequired mance. have alsousedthisapproachtomeasuretheperfor- Earlier studiesonIndiangarmentindustry[2,3,4,5, 6] ments producedpermachineshift,respectively. produced peroperatorshiftandnumberofgar- labor andmachinearedefinedasnumberofgarments labor andmachineproductivity[1].Productivitiesof to usepartialfactorproductivity(PFP)measureslike ity data.Garmentmanufacturersinternationallyprefer the Indiancompaniesarenotmaintainingproductiv- surement andreportanadditionalpaperwork.Mostof collection andrecordingofproductivitydata,itsmea- productivity isnotoftenavailable.Theyalsofindthe cance ofproductivityimprovementbutthedataon Although, themanufacturersareawareofsignifi- pany relativetotheothercompanies.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association CPL-NAV andCPL-CSS. The CPL-plus modulehas ules likeCapitaline(CPL) plus,CPL-TP, CPL-News, available athttp://www.capitaline.com. Ithasfivemod- India. Itisanindependent economicdatabasewhichis data fromCAPITALINE databaseofCapitalMarket Keeping alllimitationsinview, wehaveobtainedthe and efficiencyofIndianindustries. ESS andCapitalinedatatoestimatetheproductivity Earlier studies[11, 16,19,20]havealsousedthePROW- databases aresimilaroneandbasedonannualreports. with PROWESSandCapitalinedatabases.Boththe panies. Thecompanylevelpanel-dataisonlyavailable ance-sheet basedfinancialdataoftheindividualcom- including garmentcompanies.Thesesourceshavebal- data onalargenumberofmanufacturingcompanies, In India,PROWESSandCapitalinedatabasesinclude 2.1. DataSelection discussed brieflyinthissection. variable selectionandmodelselection,whichhavebeen in theapplicationofDEA.Thesearedataselection, There aresomeimportantnon-computationalaspects 2. Methodology technical efficiencyofthegarmentcompaniesinIndia. CCR andBCCDEAmodelshaveusedtoestimatethe MPI techniqueisusedtoestimatetheTFPgrowthand industry [17,18]. Therefore, inthepresentstudy, the sector [15],Indianfoodindustry[16]andtextile lian privatesectorindustries[14],Greekmanufacturing Enterprises [12], Taiwan's sciencepark[13], Austra- industry [10],SpinningmillsinIndia[11], ChineseState the manufacturingindustryviz.China'sironandsteel the measurementofTFPchangeanditscomponentsin researchers haveextensivelyappliedthistechniquefor ment ofTFPchangemanufacturingindustries.Many has beenwidelyacceptedasagoodtoolformeasure- This DataEnvelopment Analysis (DEA)basedMPI technique tomeasurethe TFP. developed byFare[9]etal.(1994)isthemostsuitable in frontier, theMalmquistProductivityIndex(MPI) of frontierovertime. To accountforthisdynamicshift sure theefficiency. Itisessentialtomeasuretheshift and Cooper[8](BCC)modelsarewidelyusedtomea- Cooper andRhodes[7](CCR)Banker, Charnes to bestpracticeinagivenyear. DEA basedCharnes, mance ofagarmentcompanyisevaluatedinreference efficiency measuredisstaticinnature,astheperfor- of timeusingpaneldatacalledasproductivity. The 30 models. Here, weusetheoutput-oriented CCR,BCCandMPI ented modelismoreappropriate intheIndiancontext garment productionusingexisting inputs,sooutput-ori- ment industry, thecompanieshavetomaximize ing domesticandexportmarketsfortheIndiangar- sands ofunitsareservingit.Keepinginviewthegrow- garments andthedomesticmarketislargeasthou- population inurbanandruralareasgoforreadymade export anddomesticmarket.Now-a-days,majority of ment generation,foreignexchangeearnings,massive The characteristicsofgarmentindustryareemploy- 2.3. Modelselection the earlierresearchers[16,18,20]. DEA studiesthewagesandsalariesarealsousedby these financialdataasthenextbestalternative.In the physicaldataonoutputandinputs. We havetaken ployees sincetheCapitalinedatabasedonotprovide salaries hasbeenselectedinplaceofnumberem- mance evaluationusingDEA.Thevariable,wagesand 21, 22]onIndianmanufacturingindustryforperfor- variables havebeenusedbytheearlierstudies[19,20, sidered asinputvariables.Similaroutputand consumption, andpower&fuelconsumptionarecon- plant &machinery, wages&salaries,rawmaterial to accountforallinputsintheproductivitycalculations, put isaproperoutput-variableforthisindustry. In order & fuelarealsoimportantinputs.Hence,valueofout- ment industry, intermediateinputslikefabricsandpower employee, capitalandintermediateinputs.Inthegar- capital. Thevalueofoutputconsidersallinputslike value addedisusedonlywheninputsarelabourand used valueofoutputasanvariablesincenet used bytheresearchers.Inpresentstudy, wehave added [14,24,16,25,26]havebeenmostcommonly outputs viz.valueofoutput[12,21,22,23]and In earlierDEA studiesonmanufacturingindustry, two 2.2. Variable selection (1999-2004) andMFA-post period(2005-2008). 2001), MFAIV-phase (2002-2004),MFA-phase out panies haveprogressedintheMFAIII-phase (1999- has beenselectedtoseehowtheIndiangarmentcom- the period1999-2008.Thetenyears1999-2008 nies wereselectedaccordingtoavailabilityofdatafor plus. Outof109companies,40textilegarmentcompa- on 109garmentcompaniesisavailablewiththeCPL- one ofthesectorstextileindustryanddata been classifiedunder23sectors.Garmentindustryis the dataon994Indiantextilecompanieswhichhave May -June2012 CLOTHING change (PEFCH).HeretheTFPcanbewrittenas, ciency change(SECH)andpuretechnicalefficiency (EFCH), technologicalchange(TECHCH),scaleeffi- estimate theTFPchange(TFPCH),efficiency industry [16,17,18,25].Thismethodisappliedto proach tomeasuretheTFPinIndianmanufacturing Recently, DEA basedMPIhasbecomepopularap- Malmquist Pr 2.3.2. 28, 29]. ture isavailableformathematicaldetailsofDEA,[27, ciency (PTE)andscaleefficiency(SE).Lotsoflitera- overall technicalefficiency(OTE),pureeffi- India. We usebothCCRandBCCmodelstoestimate the technicalefficiencyofgarmentcompaniesin Firstly, thispaperappliesDEA techniquetomeasure Data En 2.3.1. Table Scores duringMFA 3.1:MeanEfficiency PhaseoutandMFA-post period constant returnstoscaleandvariable we firstdiscusstheyear-wiseefficiencyscoresunder technical efficiencyrelatedtotheproductionfrontiers, mental componentofMPIisrelatedtomeasures efficiency andproductivitygrowth.Whilethefunda- by CCR,BCCandMPImodelstomeasuretechnical In thissection,wehavediscussedtheresultsobtained 3. Empiricalfindings timated as, used synonymously. The TFP growthratecanbees- In theanalysis,productivityandTFPhavebeen et al.[27],Coelli[28]alandRamanathan[29]. mathematical formulationofMPI,pleasereferCooper one, equaltooneandlessthanrespectively. For change andregresswhentheirvaluesaregreaterthan The aboveindicescanbeinterpretedasprogress,no May -June2012 TFPCH =EFCHXTECHCHPEFCHxSECH CLOTHING 9920 .509 .51 31 41 21 15 14 16 23 DRS IRS 14 CRS 0.95 SE 0.90 PTE 0.85 OTE No. of companies with SE No. of efficient PTE Efficiencyscores 1999-2008 2005-2008 MFA-post 1999-2004 MFA-phase 2002-2004 (MFAIV) 1999-2001 (MFAIII) OTE Year TFP Growth(percent)=(TFPCH-1)x100 velopment Analysis oductivity Index u 0.84 out .609 .51 41 51 23 12 20 18 15 17 18 13 17 14 24 14 15 15 22 21 0.95 13 14 0.90 0.94 0.95 0.86 0.88 0.90 0.83 0.85 .909 32 41 819 18 13 14 22 13 0.95 0.89 31 adjust scale-sizeby5percent. of 95percent.Thisimpliesthatthecompanieshaveto an optimalscale-sizewithaveragescaleefficiency The DEAresultsshowthatcompaniesareoperatingat improved theirefficiencybychangingplant-size. ficient. Further, itisexaminedwhethercompanieshave panies areonaverage10percentpuretechnicalinef- scores, averagescoreis90percent,implyingthatcom- looking attheannualaveragepuretechnicalefficiency kets fortheIndiantextileandclothingexport.When from 1stJanuary2005.Thesemarketsaremajormar- Canada haveopenedtheirmarketsforgarmentimports In additiontothis,majormarketslikeUSA,Europeand of restrictionsongarmenttradefrom1stJanuary2005. the MFA-phase outperiod.Itcouldbeduetoremoval improved intheMFA-post periodincomparisonwith gests thattheefficiencyofgarmentcompanieshas creased to86percentintheMFA-post period.Itsug- from 85percentto83andagain,ithasin- period, theoveralltechnicalefficiencyhasdecreased frontier. LookingatMFAIII andMFAIV phase-out lesser outputsincomparisonwiththebestproduction implying thatthecompanieshaveproduced15percent garment companiesis85percentduring1999-2008, It isobservedthatthemeantechnicalefficiencyof given inTable 3.1 in theFigures3.1to3.3 Average efficiency scoresare and decreasingreturnstoscale(DRS)havebeenshown returns toscale(CRS),increasing(IRS) companies andnumberofshowingconstant cal efficiency, scaleefficiency, numberofefficient The trendsinoveralltechnicalefficiency, puretechni- 3.1. Efficiencyanalysis calculated byMPImodel. and thisisfollowedbythechangesinproductivity companies their returns to scale to returns their companies

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association nology. production capacityandtomodernizetheexistingtech- to theindustryatalowerinterestrateexpandtheir Up-gradation FundSchemehasprovidedthebankloan served forsmall-scale.Inadditiontothis, Technology garment industry. Priorto2000,theindustrywasre- striction oninvestmentinplantandmachineryofthe the National Textile Policy2000hasremovedthe re- in 1999toRs.4.46crore2001.Duringthisperiod, chinery percompanyhasincreasedfromRs.4.21crore duction scale.Theaverageinvestmentinplantandma- suggests thatthecompanieshaveincreasedtheirpro- have reducedfrom23to17duringthesameperiod.It 2006. ItisbecausethetonumberofIRScompanies companies haveincreasedfrom12in1999to18 observed fromFigure3.3thatthenumbersofCRS returns toscaleordecreasingscale.Itis pany operatesatconstantreturnstoscale,increasing Additionally, DEA allowsassessingwhetheracom- bers ofscaleefficientcompanies haddroppedfrom18 during thesameperiod.During 2001-2004,thenum- operating atincreasingreturns toscalefrom2314 2001 andlargelythedecline innumberofcompanies companies haveincreasedfrom12in1999to18 in 3.2, itisobservedthatthenumberofscaleefficient If wecomparesimultaneouslyFigure3.1and Figure 3.2: Trends inNumber Companies ofEfficient Figure Trends 3.1:Efficiency intheIndianGarment industry 32 affected thegrowthandperformanceofindustry. then therecessioninUSAandEuropemarketshave against dollarhashitthegarmentindustryin2007and during thisperiod.Initiallytheappreciationofrupee in thenumberofdecreasingreturnstoscalecompanies returns toscale.Ultimately, ithascausedrapidincrease nies showingconstantreturnstoscaleandincreasing and scaleefficientcompanies,numberofcompa- ciency, puretechnicalefficiency, numberofOTE,PTE we findthedecliningtrendsinoveralltechnicaleffi- nical efficiencyduringthisperiod.In2007and2008, 19 in2006whichresultedtoincreasetheoveralltech- efficient companieshaveincreasedfrom13in2004to markets, againthenumbersofscaleefficientandPTE at transitionphaseofMFA. After openingthemajor in 2001to132004. At thisstage,theindustrywas paring theproductivityin MFA-phase outandMFA- ductivity growthof1.6percent perannum.Whilecom- It isobservedthattheindustry haverecordedapro- 3.2.1. Productivity growth intheindustry sition during1999-2008. and Figure3.5showtheTFPgrowthitsdecompo- the shiftinproductionfrontierovertime.Figure3.4 of performancegarmentcompaniesbyincorporating This partoftheanalysiscapturesdynamicaspect 3.2. Productivityanalysis panies. in improvementtheoverallperformanceofcom- size toboostupthescaleefficiency, whichwillresult cation ofinputsefficientlyandthenexpandtheplant- first improvethemanagerialefficiencybyproperallo- cent and5percent.Itsuggeststhattheindustryshould efficiency andscaleby15percent,10per- 1999-2008 inoveralltechnicalefficiency, puretechnical Finally, wefindthattheindustrywasinefficient during Figure 3.3: Trends inReturnstoScale May -June2012 CLOTHING recession hashittheindustryduringtheseyears. the negativegrowthrates.Thissuggeststhatglobal respectively; whileintheyears2007and2008,itshows percent and5.0intheyear20052006, garment companiesrecordspositivegrowthof3.1 1.6 percentto1.7percent.Theproductivityinthe post period,wefindthattheTFPhasincreasedfrom change asshowninFigure 3.5 To sumup,theIndian pure technicalefficiency change andscaleefficiency Further, theefficiency changecanbedecomposed into comparison theefficiencychangeduring1999-2008. change hashighercontributiontoproductivitygrowthin the year2007and2008.Overalltechnological MFA-post period.Itwasduetotheglobalrecessionin have increasedfrom19inMFA-phase outto23in other side,thenumbersofDRSefficientcompanies higher TFPgrowthintheyear2005and2006.On tive contributionoftechnologicalchangetoachievethe to producegarmentsatlargescale.Thisresultedposi- nies haveexpandedtheirexistingproductioncapacity 12 inMFA-post periodwhichindicates thatthecompa- companies havereducedfrom18inMFA-phase outto 1.0 percent.ItisalsoobservedthatthenumberofIRS change hasdeclinedinlaterperiodfrom1.4percentto MFA-post period,weobservethatthetechnological and MFA-post periods.LookingatMFA-phase outand ence intheefficiencychangebetweenMFA-phase out and technologicalchange.We didnotfindmuchdiffer- The componentsofTFPchangeareefficiency Figure 3.5: Trends inPure Technical EfficiencyChange May -June2012 CLOTHING Figure 3.4: Trends inProductivityGrowth andits and ScaleEfficiencyChange Components 33 .Rangrajan K., 5. .JoshiP., IshtiaqueS.M.andJainK., 4. BhedaR.,Narag A. S.andSinglaM.L., Bheda, R., 3. 2. Bheda,R., 1. References cal changehasdeclinedinthelatterperiod. MFA-phase outandMFA-post period,thetechnologi- in MFA-phase outandMFA-post period.Lookingat that thereisnotmuchdifferenceintheefficiencychange industry intheyear2007and2008.Theanalysisshows 2008. Itsuggeststhattheglobalrecessionhashit and 2006;negativegrowthintheyear2007 shows positivegrowthofproductivityintheyear2005 has increasedinthelatterperiodslightly, theindustry out andMFA-post period,wefindthattheproductivity While comparingtheproductivitygrowthsinMFA-phase the growthofefficiencychange. efficiency changehavethealmostequalcontributionin change, thepuretechnicalefficiencychangeandscale efficiency change.Further, decomposingtheefficiency nological changehasthehighestcontributionthan ity growthduringthestudyperiod,inwhichtech- ment companieshaveachievedamoderateproductiv- namic aspectsofresultsindicatethattheIndiangar- in improvementtheoverallperformance.Thedy- scale toboost-uptheefficiency, whichwillresult allocation ofinputsefficientlyandthenexpandtheplant- should firstimprovethemanagerialefficiencybyproper 1999-2008. Itissuggestedthatthegarmentcompanies of thegarmentcompaniesinIndiaduringperiod efficiency haslargelyaffectedtheoverallperformance The empiricalresultsindicatethatthepuretechnical 4. Conclusion growth oftheefficiencychange. ciency changehavealmostequalcontributiontothe the puretechnicalefficiencychangeandscaleeffi- growth rate.Further, decomposingtheefficiency change, change hasprogressedwithonly0.6percentannual with aprogressrateof1.4percentandefficiency the technologicalchangehashighestcontribution growth of1.6percentduringthestudyperiod,inwhich garment companieshaveachievedamoderateTFP Textile Journal, of FashionandMarketing Management India, (2006). parel industry, Journal ofTextile and Apparel, Tech Managing productivity intheap- CBSpublishersanddistributors: Foreign Trade Review, December, 66 , (2005).

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36 The IndianEco- Indian Economic May -June2012 Journal ofPro- , 662,(2008). CLOTHING r r r Data An E-mail : Gurukul Marg,Mansarovar,Jaipur ICG- The IISUNiversity, Sulekha Ojha, *All Correspondenceshouldbeaddressedto, by theuseofasmall;metallicsquarearoundwhich A specialtyofUdaipur, danke-ka-kaamisdistinguished 1.2. Danke-ka-kaam also achievesasimilareffect[1]. a thread.Nowadays,electroplatingwithothermetals wound aroundasilkenorcottonfilamentcoretomake hammered flatorusedasitis,couldalso be series ofdiestoobtainafinethread.Thiscaneither be and Dankawork.Goldsilveraredrawnthrougha embroidery islargelyofthreekinds-Zardozi,Gotawork surface ofthegroundfabriccannotbediscerned.Metal these garmentsis,sometimes,soextravagantthatthe elephant caparisonsandcanopies.Theembroideryon apparel, likefootwear, belts,caps,cushionsandeven employed itonawiderangeofarticlesotherthan fond ofthisstyleornamentationthattheyoften represents powerandimportance.Theroyaltywereso cause embroiderywasconsideredauspiciouswhich garments profuselyembroideredingoldandsilverbe- Rajasthan, founditspatroninroyalty. They preferred rious history. Metalembroideryapopularstyleof Rajasthan hasrichtraditionandcultureinitsvastglo- 1.1.Metal Embroidery 1. Introduction May -June2012 CLOTHING Danka Craft,Udaipur, Productdevelopment,Designs, Acceptability. Keywords to studytheacceptabilityofvalueaddedproducts. of modernity. The presentstudydealswithproductdevelopmentthroughDankacraftofUdaipurand acts asaninterfacebetweentraditionandcontemoprisation,helpingmatchcraftproductiontotheneeds cases whereincomegeneration,socialmobilizationandcommunityrehabilitationisneeded.Designers cally viablemodelofcraftactivityandhelpintheempowermentmarginalizedgroups,especially better product.Designplaysanimportantroleinencouragingenvironmentallysustainableandeconomi- Design hasanimportantroleineconomicandsocialchangethatdoesnotstopatcreatinganewor Abstract [email protected] Value Addition oftheProducts through Traditional Dept ofGarmentProduction&ExportManagement Radha Kashyap,SulekhaOjha*&JyotiSoni Danka CraftofUdaipur ICG-The IISUniversity 35 floor. Dankapiecesarelaidoutonthefabric asre- before itisembroideredand thecraftsmansitson fabric. Thefabricisstretched tightlyonawoodenframe Danka workisusuallyworked onsatin,chiffonorsilk was alsodecoratedwithdankacraft[3]. dery. The accessories usedbymaharajaJagatSingh Leather, ,silkandcottonwereusedforembroi- decorative footwear, cushions, belt,canopies,hooksetc. very wideandinsteadofhighcost.Itwasusedfor The rangeofarticleotherthanawearingapparelwas dery weremainlyfloralwithleaves,petalsandflowers. sion, festivalandceremonies.Thedesignsforembroi- ness oftheirwearingapparelusedonauspiciousocca- with goldandsilverembroiderytoenhancetherich- Maharana ofMewarusedtodecoratetheirgarments its weight[2]. squares. Thecostofdankaiscalculatedaccordingto fine granularsand.Thestripisthencutinto1.25cm washed inplainwaterandpolishedonceagainwith with goldinstripsof30cmby2.5cm,thentheyare ished thinsilversheetsof98%purityareelectroplated to itssurfaceandpressed.Oflatewell-finished,pol- which wasfirstwarmedandthengoldfoilapplied Earlier, dankawas alsomadewithfinesilversheet, but nowadayssilverplatedwithgolddankasareused. Although thedankawasoriginallymadeofpuregold, which variesinsizebutisnotbiggerthan1.5cm. zardozi isworked.TheDankaasmallsquareplate,

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association were: The stepsfollowedforthedevelopment ofproductrange a boosttocreativityand to developanewmarket. coated silver. These productsweredevelopedtogive with theuseofartificialdankainsteadpuregold ring case,banglebox&keychainweredeveloped A rangeofkurtisandotherhandicraftitemsi.e.pouch, 2.1. ProductDevelopment 2. MaterialsandMethods u The mainobjectiveofthestudyare: fashion fields. ers constantlydemandinnovativechangesoverexisting As nowaday'sfashiontrendsarefragileandconsum- embroideries playanimportantroleinfashionworld. regions ofthecountry. The Indianfolkandtraditional reflected incostumesandtheembroideriesofvarious in otherfields.Indiancultureanditsrichheritageare The developmentintraditionaltextilesisasessential and costumesforeliteclassrulersofUdaipur[5]. nity wasengagedindoingdankaandzariworkonsaris the Bohracommunityinstate.Thecommu- the emperorhadgivenallpromotionalfacilities'to was thennotsupportedbythebohracommunity. Thus, strike washeldbythebusinessmenofUdaipur, which community. DuringtheruleofRanaSajjanSingh,a This traditionalcraftisusuallypracticedbyBohra [4]. tions and themoon,peacock,flower, leafandtheirvaria- work areinspiredbynature-likethepaisley, thesun for lighterwork.Themotifsthatareusedindanka the designfilling,whilestemandrunningstitchesare are employedsuchasthechainstitch,satinstitchfor width areusedtohighlightthedesign. Additional stitches flat metalbraidsaboutonequarterofacentimeterin two ateachcornerandonthefront.Round Two stitchesgointotheback,twoateachcornerand is securedwitheightstitchesintheshapeofaknot. over eachdankaandcoucheddownalongitsedges.It five strandsofkasab(goldorsilverwire)areplaced drawing thethreadthroughfabric. About threeto quired bythedesign.Thedankaispiercedwithaneedle, u u different fabrics To revivetheartformbyattemptingtorecreateon utilarian products. Develop amarketablerangeofeasytoproduce able inthemarket To differentiatetheproductfromwhatwasavail- 36 Following criteriawasfollowedforratingthesamples; = 1 Excellent =5,Good4,Fair3, Average =2,Poor ranked onratingperforma.Thescoreswereasunder lated andranked.Thedataundereachcategorywas in themarket.Theacceptabilityofdesignswerecalcu- keychain weretestedfortheacceptabilityofitems ria. Thedevelopedpouch,banglebox,ringcaseand asked toanalyzethesamplesbasedondifferentcrite- acceptability ofthesamples;paneljudgeswas products wereassessedinordertogetthemarket (E) Assessment ofDevelopedSamples: The developed uct throughartificialDankaplates. textiles andfashiondesigningwereembellishedonprod- selected bythepanelofjudgesexpertsfromfield (D) DevelopmentofDesignsonFabric:Thedesigns accordingly. use ofarticle.Thecolorfabricwasalsochosen quality, andsuitability, requirement,accordingtotheend by keepinginmindthecommonlyusedfabrics,their (C) SelectionofFabric:Thefabricselectionwasdone Fair =3, Average =2,Poor1 The scoreswereasunder:Excellent=5,Good4, performa. The dataundereachcategorywasrankedonrating fashion designing.Designswereselectedandranked. judged bythepanelofexpertsfromfieldtextilesand (B) Assessment ofDesigns:Theprepareddesignswere as pouch,banglebox,ringcaseandkeychain prepared bytheresearcherforkurtisandarticlessuch the traditionalmotifsofdankawork,newdesignswere (A) PreparationofDesigns: After takinginspirationfrom Maximum scoreAcceptability Index%= Highest scorex100 u u u u u u u u Acceptability ofconcept Quality ofworkmanship Suitability ofmotifstotheenduse Placement ofmotifs Selection ofcolour Selection offabric Design suitabilityaccordingtothesample Selection ofmotifs May -June2012 CLOTHING u u 3. Results&Discussion u u corded. bangle boxandringcasewithdankaworkwerere- Responses andpreferencetokurtis,pouch,keychain, The productswereevaluatedthroughrankingscale. Indian pink,rustymaroonandblack. were offwhite,rustypink,pastelgreen,yellow, silk, Polysilk&Cotton.Thecolouroffabricsselected velopment ofkurtisandhandicraftitemswereKhadi made onstifffabric.Thefabricsselectedforthede- such aschiffon,,crape,etc.butattemptwas Danka workwastraditionallydoneondelicatefabrics which wasexcellent,good,fair, averageandpoor. were askedtorankthedesignsonratingperforma further improvedtogetthebestresult.Thejudges gestions thefinenessandintricacyofmotifswere innovative andcreativefordankawork. As persug- in developingthedesigns.Themotifsdevelopedwere experts appreciatedtheeffortsmadebyresearcher 5 designsoutof20fordevelopingkurti.Majority field oftextilesandfashiondesigningtoselectthebest manner andthenshowntoapanelofexpertsfrom Developed dankadesignswerearrangedinsystematic poshaks andsarees. danka workasthiscraftwastraditionallydoneonrajputi considered asanewdiversificationoftheproductin embellished onkurtiandhandicraftitemsasitwas lighter toheavierwork.Thedesignsweredrawnbe varied fromtheexistingtraditionaldesignsandincluded innovative designsweredrawnonpaperand designs werepreparedbytheresearchermanually. 20 After documentingtraditionaldankamotifs,innovative May -June2012 CLOTHING Evaluationof Acceptability Selectionoffabric Selectionofdesigns PreparationofDesigns Figure 3.1.:NewDevelopedDesignonKurtis - - S-3 S-1 S-2 37 From theabovetableitwasfoundthatcostingofsample relative ranking Table No3.1: Acceptability score obtainedby ofKurti's artificial danka Table No3.3:Comparisonbetweencostsoforiginal and S-2 &S-3wasRs500/-andS-1,S-4,S-5Rs.400/-. Table No3.2:Costofdevelopedsamples found tobemoreappealingthepanel est scorebecauseinboththesamplescolourswere respectively. Samplecodeno. 2andno.5gotthehigh- sample 1(78%),4(76%)and3(64%) highest scoreas(90%)followedbysample5(82%), dress material(kurti)revealedthatsample2gotthe The ratingobtainedforthedevelopedsamples cetblt 89 47 82 76 410 S-5 64 380 S-4 90 320 S-3 Scores Index(in %) 78 450 S-2 Acceptability 390 obtained S-1 Total score Item No. evaluation Criteria of otwt 0/ 0/ 0/ 0/ 400/- S-5 1900/- 400/- 1800/- Danka S-4 2000/- 500/- 2100/- plated silver 1700/- 500/- S-3 gold with 400/- Cost S-2 artificial Danka S-1 with Cost Sample No. ot40-50-50-40-400/- 400/- S-5 500/- 500/- S-4 400/- S-3 S-2 Cost S-1 Sample No. S-4 S-5

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association masses. danka thus,makesthesamplesmoresuitableto artificial dankawasquitesimilartogoldplatedsilver But theworkmanshipandoverallappearanceof work wasmuchlesserincomparisontotheoriginal. plated silverthecostofallsamplesinartificialdanka On comparingthecostofartificialdankawithgold Figure 3.2:Developeddesignsofpouch(Size4x4inch) - P-4 P-3 P-2 P-1 P-5 38 inch) Figure 3.3:DevelopeddesignsofRingCase(Size1.5x1.5 relative ranking Table No3.4: Acceptability score ofthepouchobtainedby comparison withtheothers. combination andqualityofworkmanshipwasbetterin both thedesignsmotifused,colour highest scoreascomparetoP-1,P-2,P-4,becausein From theabovetableitwasfoundthatP-5andP-3got cetblt 07 27 86 72 430 82 P-5 360 P-4 78 410 P-3 Index(in %) 80 390 P-2 Acceptability 400 obtained P-1 Total score Item No Score evaluation Criteria of - R-4 R-3 R-2 R-1 R-5 May -June2012 CLOTHING by relativeranking Table No3.5: Acceptability score oftheringcaseobtained inch) Figure 3.4:Developeddesignsofbanglebox(size4.5x4.5 evaluation. ance wasgoodfromothersonbasisofcriteria to theenduse,placementofmotifsandoverallappear- cause oftheircolourcombination,suitabilitymotifs respondents appreciatedtheR-1andR-2designsbe- pare toR-3,R-4,andR-5.Theresultrevealedthatthe were highlyappreciatedbytherespondentsascom- From theabovetableitwasfoundthatR-1andR-2 May -June2012 CLOTHING cetblt 49 68 64 80 320 R-5 76 400 R-4 98 380 R-3 Index (in%) 94 490 Acceptability R-2 470 obtained R-1 Total score Item No Score evaluation Criteria of B B4 B3 B2 B1 B5 39 inch) Figure 3.5:DevelopeddesignsofKeychain(size4.5x4.5 by relativeranking Table No3.6: Acceptability score ofthebangleboxobtained by relativeranking Table No3.7: Acceptability score ofthekeychainobtained compare toB-3,B-4,andB-5. B-2 werehighlyappreciatedbytherespondentsas Placement ofmotifs,SelectionmotifsetcB-1and From theabovetableitwasfoundqualityofwork, ucts havegreatopportunity amongmarkets.Thisisthe Danka unitshaveasmall marketsharebuttheprod- 4. Conclusion 3, andK-5. manship etcbytherespondentsascomparetoK-1,K- pearance, colour, Selectionoffabric,Quality ofwork- were highlyappreciatedbecauseoftheiroverallap- From theabovetableitwasfoundthatK-2andK-4 cetblt 89 07 80 76 400 70 380 94 350 Index(in %) 88 470 Acceptability 440 obtained Total score Score evaluation Criteria of cetblt 28 89 74 92 370 68 460 86 340 Index(in %) 82 430 Acceptability 410 obtained Total score Score evaluation Criteria of - - - - K-5 K-4 K-3 K-2 K-1 - - - - B-5 B-4 B-3 B-2 B-1 - - - - K-5 K-4 K-3 K-2 K-1

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association u u u mote theartandpeopleassociated. situation. A fewsuggestionshavebeen listed topro- silver. Thereisaneedtomakeinnovationinthepresent tion, lackofdemandandtheeverincreasingprices lack ofpromotionnewtechniques,organiza- Udaipur hasbeenfadingbecauseoflackcapital, previously untappedmarkets.Thedankaworkof based onnewproductdevelopmentandexpansioninto type ofsearchrequiredbyastrategyforgrowthis JS Humidification A-8 World Traders M Traders World A-8 VASTRA Intern A-5 A-6 A-15 Un Veejay LakshmiEngg. Works Ltd. A-18 A-11 A-12 A-14 A-20 JS Humidification TCL2012InternationalConference RieterIndiaLtd ITEMA Weaving (India)Pvt.Ltd. RubberInd.Pvt. Ltd. Precision India ITME2012 A-9 Oerli Param A-4 ICTA 2012 Cnference Reliance IndustriesLtd. A-8 Dornier MachineryIndiaPvt.Ltd. A-17 A-8 CITI Publications A-3 Aspire ChemicalsPvt.Ltd. Air MaasterIndustrialTechnolozis Advertise on Website A-16 Advertise inthispage Adobe Systems A.T.E. EnterprisesPvt.Ltd All India Textile Conference method. sans basedontheskillssetsandscientificcosting and thendistributetheworktomemberarti- agents forcolletingtheworkincommonplatform Develop apoolofshopowners,exportersand and theprocesspatentforthisart. application forgettingthetrademarkregistered Making Dankaworkashistoricartandtomakean age. build upitsmarketvalueandcommonbrandim- need tosetupamissionrevivetheoldartand Assuming thattherearegoodprospects,isa ADVERTISEMENT INDEX -3LnigA ni rnhA-1 Lenzing AG -IndiaBranch A-13 . 40 .Bhandari, V., "Costumes,Textiles andJewellery 1. References .Babel,S.,andKaur, K.,MarketPotentialofValue 4. Mathur, P.R., "CostumesoftheRoyalMewar", 3. Mehta,R.J.,"MasterPieces of India",D.B. 2. u u .Vyas, G., "MewarkaSamagicevem Arthik Jivan", 5. S v.Ld A-19 SSP Pvt.Ltd. Lakshmi Machine Works Ltd. craft. tors toknowaboutthetrendsandstylesindanka owners, self-entrepreneursandforfashioninnova- tation forupcomingdesigners,students,boutique This reportwillserveasaguidelineofexperimen- as tradefairs,exhibitionsetc. Promotionalactivitiesshouldbeundertakensuch itech Techmech Added DankaworkShawls. Abhinav publication,57,(1994). Taraparevala Sons& Pvt. Ltd,23-25,(1994). cations, of India: Traditions inRajasthan",PrakashPubli- In CityPalaceofUdaipur, 136-138,(1987). (5), (2010). o emgA-7 kon Neumag ount Instruments 98 , (2004). toa ofrneA-10 ational Conference g v.Ld A-2 fg. Pvt.Ltd. Pvt. Ltd. Cover II Cover Pvt. Ltd. Textile Trends, May -June2012 CLOTHING Cover IV Cover I Cover III r r r r

LIII May -June2012 TEXPERIENCE tiles Services. Manager, inDyStar Tex- Currently workingas ASTM andAATCC. Executive Memberof Chemical IndustriesUK., magazine ofSociety try &Industryaflagship Advisory BoardofChemis- He isMember, Editorial try inIndiafrom Society. tion forcolorationIndus- for outstandingcontribu- Colourists andsilvermedal Society ofDyersand the yearof2008fromThe Dyers andColouristsin Associateship ofSociety urist statusand ceived CharteredColo- search in2005.Here- completing hisdoctoralre- ating OfficerofIndiaafter Colourists asChiefOper- The SocietyofDyersand He startedhiscareerwith credit. tional Publicationstohis He hasover15Interna- nology. mediates andDyestuffTech- UDCT inthefieldofInter- UICT formerlyknownas and Ph.D.(Tech.) from BSc (Tech.), M.Sc.(Tech.) Visakhapatnam. Hedid from AndhraUniversity obtained hisB.Scdegree Dr. P. SivaRamaKumar, CCol ASDC Dr. ParitiSivaRamaKumar, and theDetoxcampaign, it hasbecomeimportanttoknowwhatarethetoxins enough. With theconstantefforts ofGreenpeaceonthetextileapparel products Today meetingtheretailer'srequirementsfor apparelproductionaloneisnot of sustainableproduction. pilot programs, Audits, technicalassistance visitsetc.,toachievethecommongoal across theirsupplychain.Theyareconductingseminars, workshops,organizing doing theirbitwithinvestinglotofresourcesandtime ingettingtherightmessage creating awarenessisthekeyincurrentscenario and brandsretailersare pains tocreatethedocumentsforRSLandtheir toolkits.Educationand List (RSL)manualsofvariousbrandsandretailers. The Brandsaretakinglotof textile supplychainpeopleunderstandthetermsused intheRestrictedSubstances needs ofthecustomersanddeliverwhatisexpected. Itisimportantthatallthe mills. However, veryfewtakespainstounderstandtherealrequirementsand free etc.,beingusedintheordersheetsandrequestformswhichcometo We seealotofgeneraltermslike Azo, Formaldehyde,Phthalates, Heavymetals of thefullecorequirements. requests andorderswithasmallpieceorthreadformatchingwithoutanymention not mentionedatallinanyofficialcommunication.Stillthemillsaregetting clearly tohissuppliers.Oftenitisobservedthattheecologicalrequirementsare and specificationsofalltheretailersthencommunicatetheseaspects is themainlinkofentiretextilesupplychainunderstandsclearlyregulations drastically atalllevelsofthesupplychain.Itisimportantthatexporterwho The awarenesslevelontheecologicalandToxicological issuesneedstoimprove demands ofretailerswouldsurvive. day byday. Inthissituationonlypeoplewhoadapttotheeverchangingneedsand to somerequirementsandregulationswhicharechangingbecomingstricter from themills,exportersandretailers. All thesedemandshavebeenoriginateddue year hasbeenanexperiencewherewekeeponreceivingrequestsanddemands, I amfortunatetobeassociatedwiththe Textile Industryforpast7yearsandeach as awhole. ucts whicharebeingproducedandputintothesupplychainoftextileindustry manufacturer's ofDyes&Chemicalstodiscloseandknowmoreabouttheprod- products. With thiseverchangingtrend,thereiscontinuouspressureonthe giving lotofimportancetothechemicalswhicharegoinginmanufacturingthese major Brandsandretailershaveadaptedtotheeverchangingrequirementsby because oftheNGO'sandotherconsumerforumsdemandsrequirements, mated machinery, environmentalconsciousness etc...wasthepasséandtoday sumer demands.Changingtowardsachievingbetterqualitycontrols,usingauto- safety. Off latetheNGOactivitieshavecreatedalotofawarenessincon- consumer andotheragencieswhichareconcernedwiththeconsumer'shealth The textileIndustryisconstantlychangingandgearinguptomeetthedemandsof Current ChallengesFor 41

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association to lookatthechemicalrestrictionswhicharebe fastness requirementsbutcarealsoneedstobetaken dyes andchemicals.Morecareisgiventolookforthe compliance comingfromthewrongselectionof quirements sothattherewillnotbeanyissueofnon need toknowwhoistheultimatebuyerandre- The millbeforetheyuseanyrecipeforproduction important. to useandpossiblecontaminantsarebecomingmore hazardous chemicalresiduesintheproductsintended rent day'snorms,understandingtheimpurityprofiles, production orduringtheuseofproduct.Soincur- which wereleaseintothewastewaterstreamsduring • • • •

JTA hasitspresenceinover20countries JTA bringsthelatestnews&viewsontrade,technologydevelopment JTA isthepremierpublicationinthisfieldformorethansevendecades Textiles &Garmentindustryarethe Asia's PremierIndustries Your inJournal ofthe Advertisements Textile Association The Textile (India) Association

Subscribe toor in JTA advertise Office : Target YourClients hits yourtargetedclientsbecause…. al: Mail a : Fax e.: Tel. www.textileassociationindia.org Mumbai -400028(India) 67, RanadeRoad,Dadar(W), Pathare House,NexttoStateBankofIndia, +91 2224461145 +91 2224474971 [email protected] 42 that non-complianceandpenaltiescanbeavoided. requirements andanalyzingtheproductstobeusedso the suppliersandmanufacturersforunderstanding through attendingmeetings,seminarsandcontacting but weneedtoconstantlyupgradeourknowledge We cannotalwayshavequicksolutionforthissituation giving adequateandaccurateinformation. provided bythesuppliersofdyesandchemicalsarenot ever, mostoftheMSDSanddeclarationdocuments few casestherequiredtestsarenotconducted).How- tions, Technical datasheetandthefinaltestreports(in easily. We needtoberelyingontheMSDS,declara- adhered to.Usuallythisinformationisnotavailable TEXPERIENCE May -June2012 Yes, thereareattemptsmadeby recording andprintingmachines. many organisationsistheir useas lier, thefirst andoftenlaststepin that usesthem. As mentionedear- put toaredefinedbythesoftware Similarly, theusecomputerscanbe monitoring itsworkingorefficiency. new weavingmachineandnot trative examplewouldbebuyinga itself servesnopurpose. An illus- Just theprovisionoftechnologyby only byhowitisappliedandused. The useoftechnologyisrestricted voices, salarysheetsetc. machines foritemslikeChallans,in- terminals andusethemasprinting means puttinginsomecomputer computerisation formostpeople the two,aswehaveobservedthat mats. Notethatwehaveseparated software, invariousformsandfor- We aretalkingofcomputers and the worldandinallindustries. increase resourceutilisationallover has beenverysuccessfullyusedto other innovationtoolwhichcanand would liketobringattentionan- into areasliketechnicaltextileswe tion and/orproductdevelopment technology, workpractices,automa- the usualconceptofinnovationin Taking aslightlydeviantlinefrom May -June2012 TEXSPECIAL Sharad Tandon,CEO Innovation ThroughSoftware for oneparticularitem. For our ample ofamanualversusERP entry demonstrate thisletstake anex- made foronefigureof data. To ensures thatonlyentryneedstobe The advantagesaremany. One,it cern withthispersonsworking. of kilometresawaywithnocon- entered bysomeonesittinghundreds or availableevenifithasbeen business chainisboughttonotice relevant toanyoneanywhereinthe In short,theinformationrequiredor if requiredtakecorrectivedecisions. immediately onlinetomonitor, and available todecisionmakersalmost reporting formats.Thesameis tem tobepresentedinpredefined is processedbythecomputersys- recorded centrally. The information linked throughacommonthreadand simple. All thebusinessactivityis The basisonwhichitworksis a 2persononeor2000one. The enterprisemayitselfconstitute prise wideresourceplanningtool. elaboration suggests,itisanEnter- exactly doesERP mean? As the ter wehavetoreturnERP. What the labelforwantofanythingbet- Alas, muchaswedon'tagreewith informed decisionsfaster. effective tooltohelpyoutakemore of yourresourceandbecominga ning inthemenablingbetteruse more importantlythesoftwarerun- Let's lookatuseofcomputers,or lack ofresourcesandhands. actually standtobenefitmoregiven smaller andmediumsectorswho far inbetweenspeciallythe (ERP). Thesuccessesarefewand Enterprise ResourcePlanning ment whatisknownexoticallyas many, andsomesuccessfullyimple- 43 partments screenalongwith warn- which willpopuponthe store de- part instock,issueanonline indent, into thesystem,checkfor available the weavingdepartmentwouldget As againstthisinatypicalERP. backyard). often itishappeninginourown a 5Rsenvelope,notrealisinghow ment spendingRs500tocheckon how wecirculateajokeofgovern- now. (Onadiversionit'ssurprising no meansbeathingtoignored ing paypackagesdoingthiscanby ing levelofskillsandeverincreas- one. Thecostof3peoplewithvary- missed anentryormadeawrong means ofknowingifsomeonehas times, byvariousheads,andno washer theentryisdonethree Thus foronepieceof5Rupees times of Audit, iftheauditor isfussy. ever happenorgetsdoneonlyat units, thisactivitymayornot is oftenthecaseeveninsmaller are locatedindifferentlocationsas ditures. Iftheaccountsandfactory against budgetedorrevenueexpen- tracking moneyspentandmatching puts initsaccountingsystemfor sumption recordwhichitagainin- the accountsisgivenasparecon- Once inamonthormaybelonger, issued to,confinedtoitsdepartment. received andputsinthemachine ment entersthestockagainstspares mainder stock,theweavingdepart- slip initssystem,updatingthere- issues againstaslipandentersthat and authorityapproving,ifavailable day), storephysicallyverifiesstock used upbythenightshiftyester- of knowingifthelastpiecewas the darkastheyreallyhavenoway Weaving issuesindenttostore(in process wouldbesomethinglike- In theusualmanualsystemideal department. by thesparesstoretoweaving purpose Iwilltakeanitemissued

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association able toseeandforecastconsump- balance stock.Thestorekeeperis weaving departmentgetstoknow by itinhisorherownmanner. The forms topeoplegoingbeaffected information isavailableinrelevant productive purposes. Also, nowthe Thus theyareavailableformore ing outformsandupdatingdata. them fromtheroutinetasksoffill- concerned people.Onlyfreeing are notreallydoingawaywiththe Now thethingtobenotedhere,we ports almostimmediately. This willreflectintherelevantre- ture inrevenueaswellbudget. in accountsundersparesexpendi- time theissuepartvalueisupdated with powertosanction. At thesame cally generatedandsenttothose mal apurchaseindentisautomati- updated, ifthestockisbelownor- If storeissuesthepart,stockis even astheprocessishappening. authority ormaintenancesection required willbeflashedontohigher ready exhausted),thesamealertif normal consumptionhasbeenal- would tellthestorekeeperthat for thesamemachinealertlevel part isbeingrequestedrepeatedly ing andalertsifany(egthesame It's toocostlyandonlybigplay- MYTH 2 the ERP thatway. can anERP. Providedyoudesign a personcanoperatean ATM he should beenoughtoanswerthis.If use of ATMs alloverruralIndia of anyqualification.Thewidespread pendant ontheeaseofuseandnot ANS: Theuseofcomputersisde- not from theComputerClass My peopleare uneducatedand MYTH 1 ceptions. drances aresomemythsormiscon- ine why. Among themajorhin- two differentthings.Letusexam- and actuallydoingitsuccessfullyare the rub.DecidingtoimplementERP be workingonlybythis.Herelies have implementeditlongbackand mon sensesaysthateveryoneshould Now ifthisissowonderful,com- by oneentry. the happeninginplant. All this person isabletoseeinRupeeterms edly ononemachine.Theaccounts excess breakdownofapartrepeat- The maintenancepersoncansee tion patternsforaparticularitem. 44 our ownfears! only thingholdingusbackisusually In summationitswellsaidthatthe dor. This doesnotmeantheERPven- monitoring orimplementingagency. Entrust theentiretasktoaoutside smaller ormediumunits.Solution? ment israrelyavailableinhousefor tise anddisciplineneededtoimple- You havetorealisethattheexper- tion, implementingERPisdifferent. age isdifferentandactualexecu- sion, likepurchasinganERPpack- take off.Understand,policydeci- all thereasonsforfailureofERPto ANS: Yes, thisisthemosttrueof takes yearsandthendoesn'twork It nevergetsimplemented.Or MYTH 3 is around1yearatthemost) erything. (Thekeyissue,payback around 20-25lakhsincludingev- and about150employeeswouldcost for agroupof1office,3plants I wouldsayafullyfunctionalERP budget ranges.Stilltoputafigure ANS: ERPsareavailableinall ers canafford it - SharadTandon, TEXSPECIAL May -June2012 CEO copolymer hasahardsegment and phase segregatedstatistically block SMP generallycharacterized asa through specificfinishingprocesses. thane series(SMP)ontofabrics shape memorypolymersinPolyure- prepared byapplyingwaterborne ric isnewandthesefabricscanbe The conceptofshapememoryfab- knitted andwovenfabrics/garments. of textileandclothingsuchasfiber shape memorypolymerinthefields ever, thereiswiderpotentialtoapply in apparelaridrelatedareas.How- materials havelimiteddevelopment poses showsthat,allshapememory and Polynorborneneforvariouspur- thane, Poly-N-isopropylacrylamide memory polymerssuchasPolyure- eling ofdifferenttypesshape plication, industrializationandmod- The synthesis,characterization,ap- and electricalappliances. and footwearproducts,composites used inmedical,textile,garments ity andairpermeability. They are responses, super-elasticitycapabil- actuation, highdamping,adaptive (thermal, stress,optical,chemical), novel propertiessuchassensing materials. Thesematerialsexhibit one groupofverypromisingsmart 1984. ShapeMemoryMaterialsare were firstdevelopedinJapan change. Shapememorypolymers (trigger), suchastemperature induced byanexternalstimulus to theiroriginal(permanent)shape deformed state(temporaryshape) have theabilitytoreturnfroma are polymericsmartmaterialsthat Shape-memory polymers(SMPs) May -June2012 TEXNOTES Polymers in Textiles Shape Memory u nent shapeelasticity'. mechanism' andoriginof 'perma- based ontheir'differences in fixing classified intofourmajorcategories Shape memorypolymerscanbe Polymers Classification ofShapeMemory easy care. ging recovery, comforttowearand wrinkle free,flatappearance,bag- sional stability, gooddurability, lent hand,shaperetention,dimen- garments areendowedwithexcel- In general,shapememoryfabrics/ (SMP) isusedinfabricfinishing. sensitive shapememorypolymer property infabrics,atemperature memory effect. To havethissmart is calledathermallyinducedshape caused byachangeintemperature - returntothepredeterminedshape, perature, orpH. A changeinshape nal stimulussuchaschemicals,tem- shape uponapplicationofanexter- product torememberitsoriginal Shape memoryistheabilityofa segment. to themeltingtemperatureofsoft switching temperaturewhichequals covered byheatingtheSMPata deformed, theoriginalshapeisre- Once theshapememorypolymeris responsible forshaperecovering. reversible phaseactsasaswitch rize theoriginalshapewhile This frozenphasehelpstomemo- segment actsasareversiblephase. acts asafrozenphaseandthesoft a softsegment.Thehardsegment Chemically cross-linkedGlassy 45 Morphing materialsandtechnologies Morphing Aircrafts mospheric condition. timal breathabilityinanygivenat- perature. Themembranegivesop- and maintainsahumanbodytem- adapts tothetemperaturevariations help thesailorsontheirjourney. It SI Suits:Thesuitwasdevelopedto as desiredbytheplayer. of theplayer, asitcanbereshaped reduce theneckandshoulderpain "Veriflex". Itisdesigned tohelp memory polymerusedhereis and carbonfibres.Theshape nation ofshapememorypolymer The violinismadefromthecombi- Ergonomic hair dryer. plying heat.Ex:blowingairthrough turned toitsformershapebyap- rolled up,pleated,creasedandre- comes hotter. The fabriccanbe shorten asroomtemperaturebe- programmed sothatthesleeves The shirtwithlongsleevecouldbe Shape MemoryFabric Its specialanduniqueproperties. Polymers Applications ofShapeMemory u u u copolymer Physically cross-linkedblock plastics Physically cross-linkedthermo- crystalline rubbers Chemically cross-linkedsemi thermostat

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association Eligibility: u u mers mers overConventionalPoly- Benefits ofShapeMemoryPoly- their compositionisharmless. ally andneednotberemovedas SMPs areusedtheydissolvegradu- In suchcaseswhenbiodegradable done toremovetheinternalstitches. human body, asecondoperationis which involvestitchesinsidethe Medical Field:Inmanyoperations of criticalimportancetoairforce. vative adaptivestructuresthatare morphing aircraftsandotherinno- are adaptedtoconstructdeployable Features: For detailsinterestedmay contactSchoolofContinuingEducationCellthe universityonaboveaddress. • • • • Yashwantrao ChavanMaharashtraOpenUniversity, Nashik ties Unique shapememoryproper- Toughness Course bestsuitedfor Textile workers Attendance incontactsessions isnotmandatory Easy tounderstandStudyMaterial Degree programmeisdividedintosixcertificateprogrammes eachofsixmonthsduration. 12thPassedorthepreparatoryprogramme of YCMOU Pathare House,67,RanadeRoad,Dadar(W),Mumbai-400028(MH) Dnyangangotri, NearGangapurDam,Nashik-422222(MH) Announces anInnovativeprogramme in Textiles The Textile Association (India),CentralOffice, Phone: (022)24461145, Fax:(022)24474971 Medium : enormous attention,buttechnologi- dous potentialthathasattracted very promisingareawithtremen- develop thesmarttextiles,itisa Polymer onthefabrics/garmentsto For applicationofShapeMemory u u u u u u Phone: (0253)2231480,2230171, polymer torubberyelastomer Ability tochangefromarigid after repeateddeformation Recovery tomemorizedshape Aesthetic clarity Open-mold curable part resin) ing (RTM or VARTM) (two- Low viscosityforeasyprocess- tion possibleinelasticstate 100% (two-partresin)elonga- Over 95%(one-partresin)and B.A (Textile) Fax: (0253)2231480 Duration : In Association with In Association /EnglishMarathi 46 3 Years aesthetic benefitstothewearer. innovation, butalsovalue-added terized withnotonlytechnological ion apparel,whichwillbecharac- functional garments,butalsofash- SMPs canbeactivatedinnotonly tional garments.Itisbelievedthat often usedtoproducehigh-endfunc- fort forthewearer. Theyarethus ture levels,ensuringgreatercom- cally tochangesinheatandmois- gineering astheyresponddynami- creasingly popularinthefabricen- Shape memorypolymersarein- cally itisstillverychallenging. --By ChetRamMeena May -June2012 TEXNOTES Moradiya. Milind BhortakkeandShri N.J. away thevoteofthanks toDr. Secretary, TAI-CentralOffice,gave Shri Virendra Jariwala,Hon.Jt.Gen. with LessMan-Power". of "HighproductivityandQuality quality. Thecompanyisanexample cost cuttingbutnotattheof bal competitivegarmentmarketwith discussed onhowtosurviveinglo- garment manufacturingprocessand group. Heshowedthehigh-tech (Manufacturing), welcomedthe Mr. N.J.Moradiya, Vice President At Cebon Apparel Pvt.Ltd., for . Spinning, Weaving andProcessing the variousmoderntechnologiesfor technicians showedandexplained tions, welcomedthegroup.The Bhortakke, VicePresident-Opera- At MafatlalDenimLtd.,Dr. Milind one. for makingthevisitsanunforgetable thanks especiallytoShriR.Patil TAI-SGU-Surat, deliveredvoteof Girishchandra H.Bhatt,President, thetic textileindustry. Shri about theneedsofsuratbasedsyn- try. Visiting membersdiscussed mainly fromsynthetictextileindus- facturing tovisitinggroupwhowere quirements incottontextilemanu- welcome andbriefedaboutthere- Mafatlal IndustriesLtd.,gavewarm Shri R.Patil,Vice President, Ltd. Denim Ltd.andCebon Apparel Pvt. MAY, 2012atNavsariinMafatlal organized anindustrialvisiton19th TAI -SouthGujarat Unit(Surat) TAI -South GujaratUnit May -June2012 UNIT ACTIVITIES Association (India) The Textile that textileindustrycontributes sig- agricultural sector. There is nodoubt ployment tothepeopleonly nextto industry inourcountryproviding em- textile industryisasecondlargest stepped inourcountry. However the formation Technology), construction before otherindustrieslikeIT(In- sector inIndiatilltheyear2000 industry wasthesecondlargest He furtherinformedthatthetextile Silvassa, Tarapur andUmbergaon. nologists fromtheregionof Vapi, to meetthetechnocratsandtech- that TAI, MumbaiUnitfeelsproud briefed abouttheseminar. Hesaid & Jt.Hon.Gen.Secretary, TAI Mr. HareshB.Parekh,Convener Unit. about theactivitiesofTAI, Mumbai presidential addressandbriefed TAI, MumbaiUnitdeliveredthe egates. Mr. C.Bose,President, Speakers, Press,Mediaanddel- tor, ShreeRam Textile MillsLtd., Awardees Mr. G. Banerjee,Direc- tor, RukshmaniSyntexPvt.Ltd. Narayan Thakkar, ManagingDirec- Textile IndustriesLtd.andMr. of HonourMr. S.S. Aich, CEO, Alok Prashant GroupofIndustries,Guest Chairman &ManagingDirector, Key notespeakerMr. PrakashShah, commissionerate, Govt.ofGujarat, neurs development,industries Director, The Centerforentrepre- Guest, Dr. ChandanChatterjee, Mumbai UnitwelcomedtheChief Mr. V.C. Gupte,Chairman, TAI, egates. was attendedbynearly250del- ing" in Vapi on April 28,2012.It Seminar on"Innovationin Weav- Mumbai UnitorganizedaOneDay The Textile Association (India), One DaySeminar on"InnovationIn Weaving" 47 TAI -MumbaiUnit Director, RukshmaniSyntexPvt. Mr. Narayan Thakkar, Managing high qualityandproductivity. pursued inhismilltoachievethe he informedthewaysandmeans of theleadingmillsincountry, agement ofmilloperations. As one and productiontargetsintheman- taken toincreasetheproductivity weaving mill.Heinformedthesteps control andqualityinthe informed theimportanceofprocess Industries Ltd.inhisspecialaddress Mr. S. Aich, CEO, Alok Textile development. chineries toshrinkthetimein collaboration inthedesignofma- emphasized theimportanceof weaving preparatoryprocesses.He of Industriesintermsvarious opments madebyPrashantgroup facture byillustratingvariousdevel- the strengthofmachinerymanu- his deliberations,hedemonstrated role ingrowthofthesector. During on commercialscaleplaysakey machinery designanddevelopment important asweaving.Therefore, said thatpreparatoryprocessisas of Industriesinhiskeynoteaddress Managing Director, PrashantGroup Mr. PrakashShah,Chairman& slowdown. ters tocomeoutoftheeconomic of variousschemesbyformingclus- textile unitsshouldtakeadvantage development ofthisindustry. The schemes toprovidesubsidyforthe Gujarat haveannouncedvarious Govt. ofIndiaandState adversely affected thisindustry. The scenario ofeconomicslowdownhas cal growth.Thelatestchanging nificantly tothecountrieseconomi-

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association bution inthefieldoftextiles. Group ofIndustriesfortheircontri- was awardedtoM/sPrashant Corporate Excellence Award" which for thefirsttimeconferred"The Association (India),MumbaiUnit the textileindustry. The Textile ment Award" forhiscontributionto Ltd. with"TheLife-Time Achieve- Director, Shree Ram Textile Mills Unit felicitatedMr. G. Banerjee, In thisseminar, theTAI, Mumbai tion inthefieldoftextileindustry. als fortheiroutstandingcontribu- by felicitatingthetextileprofession- Mumbai Unithassetaprecedent The Textile (India), Association Commissi-onerate, Govt.ofGujarat. preneurs Development,Industries Chatterjee, Director, TheCenterforEntre- by thehandsofChiefGuestDr. Chandan receiving TheCorporateExcellence Award Director, PrashantGroup ofIndustries Mr. PrakashShah,Chairman&Managing of hisenterprise. opment askeyfactorforthegrowth portance ofhumanresourcedevel- his carreer. Heexplainedtheim- narrated thehistoricaltransectof Ltd. whileaddressingthedelegates Govt. ofGujarat. Industries Commiss-ionerate, The CenterforEntrepreneursDevelopment, Guest Dr. ChandanChatterjee,Director, Achievement Award bythehandsofChief Textile MillsLtd.receiving TheLifetime Mr. G. Banerjee,Director, Shree Ram the userindustry. technological issuesconfrontedwith tions wouldmeettheobjectivesof Unit. Hehopedthatthedelibera- Textile Association (India),Mumbai to holdaseminarin Vapi bythe his happinessfortheinitiativetaken faced bytheindustry. Heexpressed dealing withvariouschallenges state andcentralgovernmentin narrated variousstepstakenbythe the viabilityandprofitability. Healso pects playkeyroleinreinforcing efficiency andenvironmentalas- context ofcostreduction,energy, has becomeanecessity. Inthe for differentlevelsoftechnologies like technicaltextiles,thedemand sis onhighvalueaddedproducts export business.Duetotheempha- employment andcontributestothe place inIndiaasitprovideslarge textile industryhasaprominent Chattargee inhisaddresssaidthat Chief Guestoftheseminar. Dr. sionerate, Govt.ofGujaratwasthe Development, IndustriesCommis- The CenterforEntrepreneurs Dr. ChandanChatterjee,Director, paper on"LatestInnovations in ager -Fabricformingpresented the Mr. Navin Agrawal, GeneralMan- Machines". ing SolutionsforRapier Weaving Bakubhai Ambalal spokeon"Weav- Mr. Rais Inamdar, GeneralManager, of Gujarat.Inall,therewere7technical ment, IndustriesCommissionerate,Govt. The CenterforEntrepreneursDevelop- Inaugural Address byChiefGuestDr. papers presented duringtheseminar. Chandan Chatterjee,Director, 48 participants, whoposedmany que- There wasgoodinteraction between sented theirpapersinthe seminar. sor, BTRA andspeakerswhopre- Dr. G.S. Nadiger, Research Advi- Consulting. Thepanelcomprised Mr. Sharad Tandon, CEO,Standon discussion, whichwasmoderatedby The lastsessionbeganwithPanel sponse fromtheparticipants. All thepapersreceivedhighre- practices" presentation on"InnovativeHR tor, Gharat& Associates madethe Mr. Vilas Gharat,ManagingDirec- ric". "Ecological solutionsforanyfab- Pvt. Ltd.presentedthepaperon try Head,ITEMA Weaving (India) Mr. Tapas Nandi,President&Coun- covery". Sizes forSpun Yarns andSizeRe- "Recent DevelopmentsofSynthetic (Pvt.) Ltd.expressedhisviewson ager - Technical, S. A. Pharmachem Mr. SanjayGajul,MarketingMan- Denim Manufacturing" presented thepaperon"Ecological ager, ClariantChemicals(India)Ltd. PL SizingandMr. K.Suresh,Man- Mr. J.B.Purohit,Sr. Manager- has turnedcheaper". the presentationon"SolarEnergy REECODE EnergySolutionsmade Mr. Bhupesh Trivedi, CEO, Fabric Forming". View oftheaudience UNIT ACTIVITIES May -June2012 advantage oftheplenarysession. attentative tillthelastsessiontotake fruitful session.Thedelegateswere bers. Itwasaveryinterestingand were answeredbythepanelmem- ries topanelmembersandthesame Mumbai onMonday, 2 Hotel, BandraKurlaComplex, ference washeldattheSofitel The 112th CantonFairPressCon- has thebroadestdistribution ofover- prehensive tradefairinChina. It tumn andthelargestandmost com- in Guangzhoueveryspring &au- Canton Fairisbiannualwhichheld able eventforbusinessgrowth.The ton Fairandhowitisanindispens- scope andopportunitiesattheCan- Foreign Trade Centrepresentedthe team of3delegatesfromtheChina event atthepressconference,a Hotel. To promotethebilateraltrade Delhi on28thJuneat Taj Mahal event wasrecentlyconductedin at the112th Canton Fair. A similar advantage ofbusinessopportunities all theinformationneededtotake from ChinaandIndiaimparted from anumberofseniorofficials The eventshowcasedpresentations May -June2012 UNIT ACTIVITIES/NEWS & Mr. ChintanChheda Mr. Suresh Sharma,Mr. ChandrakantSalunkhe,Mr. Mr. LiuGuoyu Niu Qingbao-ConsulGeneralofthePeople'sRepublicChina, L toR-Mr. RupenVikamsey, MsDenglizhou,Mr. SanjayBhide,Mr. Canton Fair2012 nd July2012. co-hosted bytheMinistry of Com- 4th ofNovember, 2012.Itwillbe from 31stOctober, 2012 untilthe 2012) andPhase3willcommence 2012) andPhase2(October23-27, days each.Phase1(October15-19, commence inthreephasesoffive 112 significantly increasethisyear. The the previousedition,whichwould buyers outofatotal220,000in steadily growingwitharound9000 India's presenceatthefairhasbeen over of37.9billionUSdollars. achieved astaggeringbusinessturn- of productsexhibitedateachfair, it stands and150,000differenttypes ing countries. With over58,000 buyers andcloseto210participat- in April 2012attractedover200,000 The previoushostingofCantonFair est businessturnoverinChina. seas buyersandrecordsthegreat- fully achieved. the objectivesofseminarwere ers oftheseminarwerehappythat well asthespeakers.Theorganiz- ally handledbythemoderatorsas The plenarysessionwasprofession- th editionoftheCantonFairwill 49 to combatthisslow-down. and offersthebestsourcing choice it promotesthespiritofcooperation other-wise dismalEuroDebtcrisis, to networkandsellChina.Inan plat formforexhibitorsandbuyer continues topresentavibrant Trade gish globaleconomy, theCantonFair to nameafew. Despite theslug- Chamber ofCommerce&Industry Bhide -Secretary, Trans Asian -President, MACCIA;Mr. Sanjay dent, ICECC;Mr. Ashish Pednekar Mr. SureshSharma- Vice Presi- President, SMEChamberofIndia; Chandrakant Salunkhe-Founder Vijay Kalantri-President, AIAI; Republic ofChinainMumbai,Mr. Commercial CounselorofPeople's Mr. LiuGuoyu-Economicand and tradeassociations.Theyincluded sonalities fromthecorporateworld dignitaries andmanyeminentper- egates. Theeventwasattendedby ment fortheinterestedIndiandel- Ltd. willfacilitatethetravelarrange- porate &Leisure Travels (I)Pvt. Trade Centre(CFTC),OrbitzCor- appointed byTheChinaForeign company forCantonFair2012 are pending,astheofficialtravel to ensurenoapplicationforvisas team wouldcommittoextrahours, He furtheraddedthatheandhis all traveldocumentstovisittheFair. complete cooperationinclearingof China, assuredtheIndianvisitors General ofthePeople'sRepublic Centre. Mr. NiuQingbao-Consul organized byChinaForeign Trade ment ofGuangdongProvince,and merce, ChinaandPeople'sGovern- pants. was attendedbyover250partici- seminar wasagrandsuccessand proposed avoteofthethanks.The Hon. Secretary, TAI, MumbaiUnit At theend,Mr. Arun K.Narkar, Jt.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association tury. CAGRof Technical Textiles shape thedevelopmentsin this cen- ics andBio-technology, whichwill Science alongwithMicro-Electron- has animportantplaceinMaterial Technical Textiles onitsownmerit cal Textiles. ized countriescompriseof Techni- turing activitiesofmanyindustrial- more than40%oftotalmanufac- their ailingtextileindustry. Today only offerafreshleaseoflifeto value addedtechnicaltextilescould tries realizedthatnon-conventional textile industryindevelopedcoun- was inabadshape.Theentire textile industryinEuropeandUSA During thedecadesof60sand70s, development oftechnicaltextiles. cessing technologiesboostedthe new mechanicalandchemicalpro- of tailor-mademan-madefibres, 70s and80soflastcentury, advent those days.Duringthedecadesof Textiles formarineapplicationin were asoldtobeusedtechnical heavy dutyropes,cordages,etcalso ago inpre-historicera.Sailcloth, ground baseforpyramid5000years fabric wereusedforstabilizationof man civilization-itissaidthatflax tiles startedfromthedawnofhu- textiles, etc. Technical useoftex- Non-wovens, Composites,Coated technology wisealsoaddedare twelve sectorsof Technical Textiles, tiles. Application wisethereare textile productsviz. Technical Tex- phenomena haveledtoaclassof fence, space,aviation,etc.These material tohigh-enduseslikede- for varieduses-frompackaging ing intovariousfunctionalproducts versatility andarecapableofshap- Textiles inherently canposeimmense Research Association, Thane Research Association, Centre ofExcellenceinSportechatWool Research Association Settingupof basis. total technicaltextileson a global nical Textiles constitute55-57%of tech andIndutechsectors of Tech- Sportech sectoralongwithMobil- cellence inSportech. nated lastmonthas and subsequentlyWRAwasdesig- mittee (PAC) approvedtheproposal ation, theProject Approval Com- the COEinSportech. After evalu- their supporttoWRAforsettingup Shree Ram Textile Mills extended Pvt. Ltd,BanswaraSyntexand viz. RaymondsLtd,Grentex&Co. members. Besides,theindustries Technical Textilemanufacturer,as Kusumgar Corporates,aleading stitute (VJTI),Mumbaiand Veermata JijabaiTechnological In- ner ofaConsortiumformedwith pated inthebidasLeadPart- search Association (WRA)partici- Government ofIndia. Wool Re- Commissioner onbehalfofthe Sportech wasinvitedbythe Textile Centre ofExcellence(COE)in request forProposal(RFP) In themonthofFebruary2012, cal Textiles duringlastfewyears. lence invarioussectorsofTechni- nated earlier7CentresofExcel- Secretary (Textiles), havedesig- Approval Committeechairedby scrutiny andevaluationbyProject tors of Technical Textiles and,after up CentresofExcellencein8sec- Mission in Technical Textiles toset of Textiles, formeda Technology ogy of Technical Textiles, Ministry knowledge basedemergingtechnol- Considering thesignificanceof 6.5% inIndiaandChina. in thewestis2.4%,whereasit 50 Centre ofEx- u u u u ing factors: to workonSportechduefollow- Mobiltech, etc.WRAhasselected relating toSportech,Indutech, taken afewsponsoredprojects of technicaltextiles.Ithadunder- engaged itselfinthedevelopment last twodecades,ithadmodestly Woollen & Worsted industry. Since sociation establishedin1963bythe (WRA) Wool Research Association sportech. ies representingtheusersof and morethanadozensportsbod- clusters ofsportechmanufacturers ries. InIndiathereareatleast12 Sports goodsandaccesso- sportech productsviz.Sportwear, there arethreecategoriesof supercede hiscompetitors.Broadly, fort, protectionandperformanceto sports clothingtoenhancehiscom- Today's sportsmanrequiresspecial that is'Sportech'. improved sportswearandequipment, cal andmentalfitnessbackedby nique, overallimprovementofphysi- to theavailabilityofnewertech- the nextevent.Thisispossibledue tional eventoftenaredemolishedin sportsmen inaparticularinterna- playfields. Recordssetupbythe battlefield, butarefoughtinthe Today, battlesarenotfoughtinthe lish supremacyoverothercountries. as aglobalphenomenontoestab- sports activitieshavebeenfocused Apart fromimprovingeconomy, and challengeswithinsporting Higher levelofsportsstandards cess. coatings andmanufacturing pro- fibres, newtechnologiesof Availability ofhighperformance Outdoor leisurepursuits. pation insportsthecountry. Increased activitiesandpartici- isaTextile Research As- May -June2012 NEWS ordinate theactivitiesofCOE. sioner shallmonitor, reviewandco- chairmanship of Textile Commis- (SCGDTT) constitutedunderthe opment ofTechnical Textiles Committee forGrowthandDevel- ants underthisproject.Steering crores forappointmentofconsult- recurring expenditureofRs.3.00 COE inSportech,whichincludes Rs.24.50 croresfortheprojectof sioner shallprovidefundsupportof The Office oftheTextile Commis- Seminar, Workshops, FGD,etc. 8. SampleBank. 7. Formationofstandards,speci- 6. Training facilityforHRDin 5. ResourceCentrewithITinfra- 4. IncubationCentre. 3. PrototypeDevelopmentplant 2. Testing ModernAccredited 1. structure facilities: Sportech willhavefollowinginfra- The CentreofExcellencein u u u u May -June2012 NEWS ac.tance. unconditional loveandaccep- give toothersisthegift of The greatest giftthatyoucan Texttreasure fications, norms. Technical Textiles. structure. and machineries. Laboratory. performance garments. ion orientedsportwearsand Recent trendtocombinefash- infrastructure inthecountry. Growth ofsportsfacilityand country. skiing, golf-sailing,etcinthe like athletics,soccer, cricket, Popularity oftraditionalsports gears. dexterity, skillandsporting Newer sportsrequiringhigh nations. -Brian Tracy Dr. Tandon, amemberoftheTI globe. demics andprofessionalsaround the has collaboratedwithtextileaca- apparel andfunctionaltextiles.He which includeseveralfit-for-purpose groups andindustryworldwide cial successstoriesforwoolgrower publications, andseveralcommer- research skillsculminatinginmany now AgResearch, hehasappliedhis Zealand (WRONZ),Canesisand Research OrganisationofNew In his23yearsofresearchatWool the secondNewZealandrecipient. since 1921,andDr. Tandon isonly the Institute.Ithasbeenawarded service tothetextileindustryand honours, recognisingdistinguished of theInstitute'smostprestigious professionals, andthemedalisone the globalassociationfortextile Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. The TIis recently on15thMay2012near the 88thTI World Conferenceheld Chartered Textile Institute(TI)at the InstituteMedalofRoyal coln, Canterbury, hasbeenawarded tist with AgResearch, basedatLin- Dr. Surinder Tandon, SeniorScien- Top Global Award for anIndianScientist Dr. SurinderTandon andDr. PeterDinsdale,TIWorld President Mr. Andreas Weber, TIWorld ImmediatePast-President (left), 51 all thesuccessinhislife. global awardandwishhim bestfor Tandon for receivingaprestigious heartily congratulateMr. Surinder The Textile (India) Association 1988. and PhDfromLeedsUniversityin 1982, MTech fromIIT Delhiin1984 BText (Hons)from TIT Bhiwaniin dian Origin(GOPIO).Hecompleted Organisation ofthePeopleIn- Christchurch ChapterofGlobal Council andPresidentofthe of theChristchurchMulticultural Rotary ClubofLincoln,President a memberandPast-Presidentofthe involved incommunitywork,being Outside hisresearchinterests,heis ternity. within theNewZealandtextilefra- bined eventsforsharingknowledge and polytechnicstoorganisecom- sign schoolsofseveraluniversities sional groups,andfashionde- other NewZealandtextileprofes- developed collaborationswiththe man during2004-07period.He low oftheTI,wasitssectionchair- NZ Sectionsince1992andaFel-

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association operated withmodernization mea- tic cotton.Thespinningplant was tons ofyarnannuallyfrom domes- old machineparkapprox. 88000 its meanwhileupto18years' a periodof10years, 1980s andcontinuallyexpandedover USA whichwasequippedinthe A largerotorspinningplantinthe The initialsituation ally developingregions. ergy supplysituationintheindustri- contribution towardseasingtheen- nology canprovideanappreciable decreased. Moreover, moderntech- textile productscanbesustainably ergy requirementsforworldwide rotor spinningtechnology, theen- With theimplementationofmodern such bigusers. infrastructure isheavilystrainedby locally producedcotton.There,the to increasecreationofvaluefrom serve todevelopindustrializationand ticularly in Asia, thespinningplants tile product.Insomeregions,par- energy-related footprintofthetex- thereby decisivelyinfluencethe 1.5 kWhperkgofyarn.They usage rangingfrom0.5tofarabove energy consumerswithan Spinning machinesareverybig only implementedwithalongdelay. spinning millitselfareconsequently do notcompletelypayoffinthe benefits ofmoderntechnologythat after alongperiodoftime.Other sufficient tojustifynewinvestments spinning technologyareusuallyonly creases inproductivitywithnew In arotorspinningplant,purein- sustainability The challengesintermsof to 25%inacottonspinningplant. eration allowenergysavingsofup ning technologyofthelatestgen- Rotor spinningmachinesandspin- produced with New SpinningPlantMakes Significant EnergySavings als processedandasignificant re- better utilizationoftheraw materi- ing theefficiencyof plant,a prised ofacombination increas- rotor spinningmachinesarecom- The benefitsofmodernautomatic The sustainablestrengths saving storage. ficient centraldrivesandenergy- due totheapplicationofhighlyef- spinning positionsusedlessenergy again onlypossiblebecausethe areas inthespinningmills.Thiswas more cost-effectiveutilizationofthe cal machinepricepossibleanda Longer machinesmakeaneconomi- therefore higherproductivity. ergy-intensive yarntwistingand properties withaloweruseofen- spinning stabilityallowsequalyarn spinning technology. Itsimproved tains thelatestdevelopmentsin 60 model. A newspinningunitcon- lower energyconsumptiontotheR with regardtoproductivityand was consistentlyfurtherdeveloped The rotorspinningmachineinuse vestment withnewtechnology The solution-sustainablein- individual applications. the veryhighdependencyon general, hardlyavailablebecauseof consumption ofnewplantsare,in cus. Detailedstatementsonenergy the plantwaspreviouslynotinfo- costs, theenergyconsumptionof Due tothecomparablylowenergy son, newinvestmentwaspostponed. levels, wasminimal.Forthisrea- ing movedtocountrieswithlowpay USA, whosedownstreamprocess- trend forthetextileindustryin ing machinepark.Theinvestment ted ahighutilizationdespiteanag- servicing andmaintenancepermit- remained competitive.Consistent sures sothatthequalityofyarn 52 u u u quirement. ute toreductionoftheenergy re- years canthereforegreatly contrib- park withanageofmorethan20 The modernizationofthismachine more than1000MWofelectricity. ning worldwideusessignificantly spun. Thismeansthatrotorspin- 9 milliontonsofyarnperhouris on whichanamounttothescaleof spindles areinoperationworldwide, that morethan7.5millionrotor when onetakesintoconsideration development isevenmoreapparent The sustainablesignificanceofthis required fortheproduction. duction oftheenergyconsumption The R60fullyautomatedrotor spinning machinefrom Rieter. recycled . ated bythespinningprocessand use ofwastematerialsgener- raw materialsincludingthere- also permitstheuseofcheaper cases, theimprovedtechnology sources asincertainindividual Additional conservationofre- a betterutilization. in lessstandstillsandtherefore more evenyarnqualityresults downstream processing,asthe Lower resourcerequirementsin being required. more energyandresources productivity of5-10%without which allowsanincreasein improved spinningtechnology pared tooldplants,duethe ments fortheproductioncom- energy andresourcerequire- Approx. 25%lowerspecific May -June2012 NEWS conference participantsto advance laboration andjointeffortamong the expected tofosternetworking, col- facturing. Theconference isalso ments inthefieldofapparelmanu- change ideasandrecentdevelop- searchers andpractitionerstoex- environment foracademics,re- The conferenceaimstoprovidean ever-changing fashions. ing apparelindustrytrendswith bal supplychainandfinallychang- improve productivity, managingglo- laws, adoptingnewtechniquesto scarcity, qualityoftheproduct,trade issues, resourceandmanpower ers indifferentregion,globalization and weaknessofthemanufactur- growth ofthisindustry, thestrength the barrierswhicharehindering enterprises inthedevelopingworld, including theproblemsofsmall-scale all aspectsoftheapparelindustry, The conferenceisintendedtocover ever-changing fashions. ing apparelindustrytrendswith bal supplychainandfinallychang- improve productivity, managingglo- laws, adoptingnewtechniquesto scarcity, qualityoftheproduct,trade issues, resourceandmanpower ers indifferentregion,globalization and weaknessofthemanufactur- growth ofthisindustry, thestrength the barrierswhicharehindering enterprises inthedevelopingworld, including theproblemsofsmall-scale all aspectsoftheapparelindustry, The conferenceisintendedtocover than everintimestocome. industry isexpectedtogrowmore The globalapparelmanufacturing May -June2012 NEWS Home Textiles on21 8 th InternationalConference on Apparel & At IndiaHabitatCentre,NewDelhi. Theme :TheNewExcellence leaders inspireaction Leadership: Theextentto which to allemployees it willgetTherethatismeaningful the organizationisheadingandhow Direction: A clearsenseofwhere Measurement inGarmentIndustry Environment :CarbonFootPrint DRESSED INICAHT12 KEY ISSUES TO BE AD- present theFashionshow. Science ofLadyIrwinCollegewill partment ofFabricand Apparel The FacultyandStudentsofDe- fashion perspectiveastheseeit. Fashion Designingtopresentthe dents inthefieldofModelingand platform toacademiciansandstu- Conference alsoprovidesaunique panel discussion. be presentingpapersfollowedby India, Sri-Lanka,UK,andUSAwill Eminent speakersfromBangladesh, ness inthesector. eradicate barriersandraiseaware- for disseminationofknowledgeto in whichOGTChasbeenworking Suitable Developmentisathematic brand fashion destinationforinternational great supplierbase,butalsoasa that Indiacanoffer, notonlyasa fraternity toknowthedualstrengths opportunity forinternationaltrade The Conventionwillbeagreat manufacturing. to identifymajortrendsinapparel the theoryandpracticeaswell st &22 53 nd September, 2012, year andpostgraduatestudents etc. consultants, serviceproviders,final dustry associations,researchers, demicians, representativesfromin- CEO's, industryprofessionals,aca- The garmentindustryowners,their WHO SHOULD ATTEND tion andabsorption propriate andContinuousupgrada- Technological Upgradation: Responsible Competitiveness Responsible Fashion: and shapeitselfasneeded ability oftheorganizationtoadopt Innovation : ers todrivevalue. ners andotherexternalsharehold- External: Qualityofsuppliers,part- traordinary efforttodeliverresults. that drivesemployeestoputinex- Motivation: Presenceofenthusiasm petitive advantage. executive strategyandcreatecom- tutional skillsandtalentrequiredto Capabilities: Thepresenceofinsti- arise. and toaddopportunitieswhenthey organizational performanceandrisk Coordination: Ability toevaluate for deliveringresults. carry itoutandtakeresponsibility pected ofthem,haveauthorityto individuals understandwhatisex- Accountability: Theextenttowhich of interactionwithinandacrossunit Culture: Sharedbenefitsandquality ofnewideasandthe Leadingto Ap-

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association INVITED SPEAKERSIn Cheque /BankDrafttobe drawninfavourofOGTCpayableatDelhi. Delegate FeeICAHT-12 rsatAawlIdaMotiv Managi Rajesh Bheda India India Agarwal Prashant Nayyar Praveen USA Oper Philip Chamberlain Uncer Managing Lal Sudhakaran USA Kamal Sidhu India James Hoerig Str Ca ThePursuitofLeanEffectiveness" Jain Gunish India Canada India Dutta EnhancingQualityFocus,Customer Devangshu Singh Damandeep USA Merchandising Charles SUBJECT Berton COUNTRY Bruce India Gopalakrishna Anjuli SPEAKER ninRynIdaS f the As Merchandisers, Vijay Mathur India India Puranik Rajender Indian oa ugUAOper Ca USA India Yoram Burg Mehta Vishal .Ohr Rs.5000/- US$.200/- Rs.2000/- Rs.3000/- ForeignDelegates 4. Indian StudentsthroughInstitutes 3. Others 2. (a)Members ofOGTC 1. (d) ATDCFaculty (c) Noida/Gurgaon/ApparelExportCluster (b) Textile Association (I) India Handling Customer Comp Customer Handling India Management Exchange Foreign India ni So India (Alphabetical Orders) hancement Tool Delhi NCR Garment Industry:Implicationsfor Business Development. Sourcing consideringtheSustainable Buyer's PerspectiveforFuture Manufacturing Perspective India OperationalExcellence- A Technology (RFID) spective Management inLeanOrganization) (A UnifiedSystemofBusiness Orientation andCustomerServices. Company liance Technology OGTC CaseStudy ports. of Competitivenessin Apparel Ex- ourcing- Fabrics cial ComplianceastheNewFace rbon DisclosureProject rbon FootprintMeasurement- ategic OverviewoftheGlobal ational Excellencethrough ational Excellencethrough ation asaProductivityEn- ng, Finance&Costs tainty - A HRPer- 54 ace ofthe laints Re- Visit usatwww.ogtc.in [email protected],[email protected] Email : Fax (91)11- 26383532 Ph. (91)11- 41609550 New Delhi-110 020India Phase I, D-104, OkhlaIndustrial Area, Okhla Garment& Textile Cluster SECRETARIAT CONFERENCE 09810949709 Convener PapersCommittee Dr. MonaSuri 09868200116 Conference Advisor Mr. M.K.Mehra, 09810091812 Conference Chairman Mr. R.C.Kesar, Mr. VijayMathur, For FurtherDetailsContact: ActingSec.Gen. AEPC Chairman Co- Uppal, P.M.S. Mr. Chairman ORGANISING COMMITTEE Textsmile He willbesixmonths A : I guessyoureally do B : No,hedoesn't. A : Does heevercome B : No,hedoesn't. A : Does hedrinkwhiskey? : B No,hedoesn't. A : Does hesmoke? B : havetheperfectson. I A : old nextWednesday. How oldishe? have theperfectson. home late? President OGTC May -June2012 NEWS these disciplines." relation andinteractionbetween Engineering wasduetothestrong the successofEuropean Textile Business. Itisaknownfactthat of Technology, Knowledgeand ing boththeindustriesinareas utmost essentialtodayfordevelop- Textile R&DInstitutes,whichis try, Textile EngineeringIndustry and tween Textile ManufacturingIndus- tives instrengtheningthebondbe- try ofIndia;hastakenmanyinitia- senting Textile EngineeringIndus- even thoughbeingabodyrepre- remarks statedthat"ITAMMA, General (Tech.), inhisintroductory Shri N.D.Mhatre,Dy. Director p.m. onwardson22ndJune,2012. Ghoda, Mumbai-400001from5.00 ing, 18/20,K.DubashMarg,Kala tion, atBhogilalHargovindasBuild- Machinery Manufacturers' Associa- of theIndian Textile Accessories & by ITAMMA intheM.C.GhiaHall port ofNSICLimitedwasorganized Engineering Industry"withthesup- tor ingrowthofSME'sTextile tribution ofNSIC&BankingSec- A Seminar-on"Con- Exhibition forthcoming 'INDIAITME2012' Limited --Focussingmainlyon Industry withthesupportofNSIC efit ofSMEsTextile Engineering ITAMMA's initiative fortheben- NEWS May -June2012 General (Tech.), deliveringthe Mr. N.D.Mhatre, Dy. Director Opening Remarks Indian Textile Accessories &Machinery Manufacturers' Association SMEs." in thismissionforthebenefitof this exhibitiontosupportITAMMA NSIC Ltd.,hastakeninregardwith further thisisanappropriatestep action betweentwoindustriesand are appropriatetohaveliveinter- petitive marketandsuchexhibitions record itsidentityintheGlobalcom- nity forIndiantextileindustryto "We think,thisisthebestopportu- China, Taiwan andIndia." of Technologies inthecountrieslike abroad tooarelookingfortransfer Textile CollegesandUniversities sustaining theirbusiness;whilethe laborations with Asian Marketsfor there arehuntingfortie-ups/col- pean Countries,themanufacturers manufacturing industriesinEuro- closing downoftextilemillsand something differentasduetothe "However, todaythescenariois will berecorded.Considering the cess of28000to30000 sq. mtrs. covering anexhibitionarea inex- 655 individualstallsspread in 4Halls where morethan700exhibitorsin India from2-7December, 2012 engineering eventwillbeheldin largest andmostprestigioustextile stated that"'IndiaITME2012'the ITAMMA, inhis welcomespeech Shri ChetanR.Ghia,President, Mr. ChetanR.Ghia,President, ITAMMA, deliveringthe Welcome Speech 55 govt departmentsandPSUs topro- sion makingitmandatoryfor allthe the audienceaboutGovt. deci- Manufacturers. Healsoinformed tile Machinery& Accessories upliftment andgrowthoftheTex- programmes forensuringthe initiatives, policiesandintervention audience aboutthevariousgovt. Manager, NSICLtdbriefedthe Shri HemrajSingh,ChiefGeneral ITME 2012'Exhibition." Exhibitors inforthcoming'India declared byNSICLimitedtothe their helpinavailingthesubsidy quested NSICLimitedtoextend 2012' Exhibition,ITAMMA hasre- tance ofourroleinthe'IndiaITME ness growth.Realisingtheimpor- of enrichingknowledgeandbusi- ing Industryasawhole,inthefield its membersandTextile Engineer- taken initiativesforthebenefitof Engineering Industry, hasalways ciation inIndiarepresenting Textile being anoldestandlargest Asso- Shri Ghiaaddedthat"ITAMMA, ITAMMA members." Further, morethan60%ofthemare SMEs participatingasExhibitors. crores iscontributedbytheindividual to 15%investment,i.e.aboutRs.4 stall rent,wheretoanextentof10 of morethanRs.25croresonlyin Rs.9,000/-, itindicatesaninvestment average costpersq.mtr. @

Manager, NSICLimited,addressing Mr. HemrajSingh,ChiefGeneral the InauguralSpeech

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association of conduct. tices ofIOSCO& ACRAA code tion inIndiaandfollowsbestprac- (ECAI) forBaselIIimplementa- Institution Credit Assessment recognized byRBIasanExternal India Regulationsin1999andis Securities &ExchangeBoardof was registeredwithSEBIunderthe search ServicesCompany, which Credit Rating,InformationandRe- incorporated in April, 1993asa introduction hementionedthatitwas rating committee.Whilegivingthe rating agencytohaveindependent sized thatCAREratingistheonly ager, CARERating Agency, empha- Shri Suryanarayanan,GeneralMan- tile machineriesandaccessories. come theleadingsuppliersoftex- market sharesignificantlyandbe- 15 yearsandincreasetheIndian ery manufacturersinthenext10- ties availabletothetextilemachin- to capitaliseonthevastopportuni- sized onformingastrategicalliance for theirbenefit.Healsoempha- forward andavailtheseprogrames of helpandurgedthemtocome He assuredthememebrsofallsorts from thisfinancialyearonawards. cure atleast20%fromtheSSIunits Manager, CARERating Agency, Mr. General Suryanarayanan, delivering aSpecialAddress & PSUsectorsetc. supplying thematerialstoGovt are availabletotheSSIunitsfor under whichthevariousexemptions tions, tradefairs,SPRSscheme domestic andinternationalexhibi- subsidies forparticipationinthe ing rawmaterials,machineries,etc., ment, financefacilitiesforprocur- / Steel/ Copper/ Aluminium procure- of variousNSICschemeslike,iron coming thesehurdleswiththehelp try andshowedthepathforover- tile Machinerymanufacturingindus- ous constraintspresentinthe Tex- India. Hedeliberatedonthevari- development oftheSMEunitsin intended forbringingtheoverall programmes andschemesofNSIC members aboutthevarious Manager, NSICLtd.,detailedthe Shri KamalLochanNayak,Branch stated thattheSMEsector contrib- Marketing, BankofIndia inIndia Shri ManoharChoithani, Manager Manager, NSICLimited,deliveringa Marketing, BankofIndia,delivering Mr. KamalLochanNayak,Branch Mr. ManoharChoithani,Manager a SpecialAddress Special Address 56 tion explainedabouttherating meth- through hispowerpoint presenta- Marketing, CARERating Agency, Vice-PresidentMr.Sachdeva, Ankur walk-ins only. outrech team. Sotoday, theyfocuson separate relationshipmanagement dedicated SMEsalesforceand mostly basedinmajortownswith SME citycentresalloverIndia, India hasopened21centralised Looking intoabovefacts,Bankof diversification acrossthesectors. ties thaneverforexpansionand now exposedtogreateropportuni- crease to22%thisyear.SME's are was 17%whichisexpectedtoin- contribution towardsGDP in2011 and Internationalmarket.SME's 8000 qualityproductsfortheIndian every yearandproducingmorethan lion people,creating1.3millionjobs 40% ofexports,employing60mil- tributing 45%ofindustrialoutput, growth ofIndianeconomybycon- SME's playavitalroleforthe to theSMEchamberofIndia, them scalenewheights. According ucts andservicesthatwouldhelp undersupplied withfinancialprod- adds, SME'scontinuetobe However, inspiteofthevalueit firms itseconomicimportance. and itscontributiontoGDPalsocon- utes significantlytotheemployment Mr. Ankur Sachdeva,Vice-President Marketing, CARERating Agency, delivering aSpecialAddress ratherthanrespondingto May -June2012 NEWS He alsogavedetailedexplanation it representsanddoesn'trepresent. the conceptofCreditRating,what He furtherexplainedindetailabout nal CreditRatingforMSME. odology andsignificanceofExter- NEWS Keynote speakerwillbe the CEO laminating industry. from theinternationalcoating and gerial, technicalandmarketingstaff the meetingplaceforseniormana- led bythesessionchairs,TCLis intensive discussionsessionsactively happen tomorrow. Supplementedby the industrytodayandwhatwill focussing onwhatishappeningin a venueforpracticalpresentations academic researchmeeting,TCLis ing industry. Very differentfroman the worldwidecoatingandlaminat- tation asavitalmeetingplacefor ing andLaminatinghasbuiltarepu- tional ConferenceonTextile Coat- Over nearly20years,theInterna- for thisConference. ciation andJTA isMediaPartner ciation (India)issupporting Asso- November 2012.TheTextile Asso- city of Valencia, Spain,on15-16 Centre inthebeautifulandhistoric the prestigiousValencia Conference Laminating 2012,istobeheldin ference on Textiles Coatingand TCL 2012,theInternationalCon- and Laminating2012 Conference on Textiles Coating TCL 2012,theInternational May -June2012 lation to: The topicswillbediscussedinre- u u u u u detail. Mr. Sachdevafurtherex- bank facilitieswerealsocoveredin long andshorttermratingscale- mance andCreditRatingforMSEs, for MSMEs,NSICCareperfor- tors. Thetopicslikeratingoptions on perationandfinancialriskfac- tations on: The conferencewillincludepresen- ation. sibility improvelong-termvaluecre- how sustainabilityandsocialrespon- time atGeneralElectrictoshow work inrenewableenergyandhis ences withCooleybutalsoonhis will drawnotonlyonhisexperi- Social Responsibility. MrDwight pansion throughSustainabilityand dustry byspeakingaboutGlobalEx- cal concernsofmanufacturingin- will addressmanyofthemosttopi- of CooleyGroup,DanDwight,who sustainability Environmental impact and tions New opportunitiesandapplica- Practicality; Cost-effectiveness; Specialty laminates Plasma treatment; Welding; nanofibres lation; Nanotechnologyand New materials;Microencapsu- interaction functional textiles;Basefabric Production processes;Multi- 57 [email protected] www.intnews.com/TCL2012 or More information TCL2012. Now openatwww.intnews.com/ Early-bird registration u ture ofCareRating Agency. providing subsidyinthefeestruc- cluded withtheinitiativeofNSIC by thebenefitsofsameandcon- plained theneedforratingsupported Who shouldattend? nated materials. applications forcoatedandlami- range ofimportantandemerging of theseconddaywilllookata A specialprogramontheafternoon u u u are aleader. more andbecome more, you to dream more, learn more, do If youractionsinspire others Texttreasure ers, processors,orendusers. nating industry, whethersuppli- with thetextilecoatingandlami- managers ofcompaniesinvolved Presidents andothersenior Managing Directors,CEO's, nating industry. global textilescoatingandlami- concerned withthefutureof Industry analystsandothers and laminatedtextiles and theprospectsforcoated date withmarketdevelopments agers whoneedtokeepup Marketing directorsandman- converting, etc ing andlaminatingtechniques, adhesives, ?lms,polymers,coat- developments infibres,fabrics, ers concernedwiththelatest Technical directorsandmanag- - JohnQuincy Adams

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association Among thenewinitiatives thatwill try forward New initiativestodrive indus- the greentheme." look athowwecanbettersupport further enhancetherelevanceand to continuewiththem. We hopeto immensely popularandweintend Roundtable Dialogue.Thesewere Sustainable TextileLeaders inaugural World Textileand Summit all stakeholders.Theyincludedthe have enhancedtheparticipationof troduced severalnewideasthat CEMATEX, said:"In2011, wein- Maria Avery, Secretary-Generalof attract over1,400exhibitors.Miss 100,000sqm ofnetexhibitspaceand is expectedtospanover textile andgarmentcommunity. It industry leadingplatformforthe ITMA 2015willcontinuetobean value chain." for theentiretextileandgarment eco-friendly solutionsandpractices sponsible missiontopromotemore try memberswilljoinusinthisre- 'sustainability', andwehopeindus- practices. Thekeywordhereis grated withenlightenedbusiness sustainability isincreasinglyinte- show, said:"Thedrivetowards of CEMATEX, whichownsthe Mr StephenRCombes,President tainable Innovation'. edition is'Masterthe Art ofSus- 1951, thethemechosenfor2015 case ofexcitinginnovationssince Italy, in2015. A trendsettingshow- for its17thpresentationinMilan, novations thatpromotesustainability hibition, willputthespotlightonin- textile andgarmentmachineryex- ITMA, theworld'smostestablished 17th editionreturnstosizzlingfashioncapitalofMilan ITMA 2015todrivesustainableinnovations in textileandgarmentmachinery for thefifthtime largest fairgroundsinthe world, Fiera MilanoRhoboastsone ofthe autumn fairs. media twiceyearlyforitsspring and dos, supermodelsandinternational continues todrawfashionaficiona- ing ITMAforthefifthtime,city clothing andtextileindustries.Host- a longhistorywithinthefashion, of theworld'sfashioncapitals,with Milan iswidelyrecognisedasone An idealcitytohostITMA2015, of choice Fashion capitalpresentsavenue lutions. emerging trendsandinnovativeso- one-stop sourcingplatformfor remains theglobalmarketplaceand the value-addedinitiatives,ITMA efits fortheirparticipation.Besides players toallowformaximumben- initiatives arerelevantforindustry key associationstoensurethenew closely withCEMATEX andother MP Internationalwillbeworking sustainability." hold thekeytoenvironmental lieve thatinnovativetechnologies sides themindsetchange,webe- petitiveness forover60years.Be- been acatalystforindustrycom- 2015, added:"ITMAhasalways national whichisorganisingITMA Ms SylviaPhua,CEOofMPInter- sustainability. on innovationsthatpromote tor, moreemphasiswillbeplaced research andeducation(R&E)sec- cycling sector. Inaddition,forthe on thewastemanagementandre- tion willalsohaveabiggerfocus sustainable innovations.Theexhibi- are conferencesandworkshopson be organisedinlinewiththetheme 58 www.mpinetwork.com [email protected] www.cematex.com [email protected], Email: Email: [email protected] Tel: +6563930238 Tel: +6563930248 Tel: +447967477305 tional PteLtd MP InternationalPteLtdInterna- CEMATEX Ms JodyTeo Miss Maria Avery MsDaphnePoon For moreinformation,pleasecontact: dates, pleasevisitwww.itma.com. 2013. Formoreinformationandup- tion fortheexhibitionopensinmid 19 November, andspaceapplica- ITMA 2015willbeheldfrom12to place fromMaytoOctober2015. World Expo2015,whichwilltake Fiera MilanoRhoisalsothesiteof 14,000 parkingspacesforvisitors. served byrailwayandthereare metro station,RhoFiera.Itisalso to thecitycentreviaadedicated in thewestofMilanandconnected Fuksas, FieraMilanoRhoislocated Designed byarchitectMassimiliano restaurants, barsandcoffeehouses. 10 conferencehallsandahostof venue iswell-equippedwithsome covered grossexhibitionspace.The spanning 345,000squaremetresof Textsmile A :Hewillbesixmonths old B :Iguessyoureally dohave A :No,hedoesn't. B :Doesheevercomehome A :No,hedoesn't. B :Doeshedrinkwhiskey? A :No,hedoesn't. B :Doeshesmoke? A :Ihavetheperfectson. next Wednesday. is he? the perfectson.Howold late? May -June2012 NEWS ent partsofChina. TEX productsefficientlyindiffer- multiple agentswhohandleSUPER ning &Texturising Industry. Ithas well representedinChinaSpin- Spinning machines.SUPERTEXis Twxturising / Air Jet/Compact cots andapronsusedforSpinning/ SUPER TEXdisplayedalltypesof in thisexhibition. facturer fromIndiawhoparticipated were theonlycotsandapronsmanu- Shanghai Chinaexhibition.They ITMA ASIA +CITME2012, SUPER TEXhadparticipatedin NEWS protect theproductionlines against to installametaldetectorwhich can losses. To avoidthis,itisnecessary results insafetyissuesand huge stoppage oftheproductionlines to themachinecomponentsand rienced bycustomers.Thedamage components ofamachineisexpe- resulting indamageofsomecrucial particles entanglinginthetextile, ping suddenlyduetosmallmetal A situationofproductionlinesstop- tions hasinternationally®ion- creasing numberoftextileexhibi- average thereasonbeingin- We wouldsaytheresponsewas May -June2012 View ofthestallinexhibition SUPER TEXin ITMA+ ASIA CITME 2012 against foreignmetalparticles assurance toyourmachines A.T.E. and CEIA -providing same. and areputtingmoreeffortsforthe of spacetopenetrateinthismarket in Chinamarketastheystillseelot SUPER TEXistryingtopenetrate appreciation sincelast3-4years. 2008-2009 andcurrency(RMB) prices, whichhasstartedsince the fluctuationinrawmaterial Other fewreasonsforthismaybe required forthedomesticmarket. more spindles(80-90million)than dent onexportmarketasithas last decade.Chinaismostlydepen- compared whatitwasduringthe ments areveryfewthisyearsas worldwide. Thenewspinninginvest- cost addedbyeconomiccrises lenges ofhighlabor&electricity is slowingdownasitfacingchal- The localspinningindustryinChina DIA, Pakistan,Iran&Indonesia. were fromChinafollowedbyIN- the visitorsinspinningsection available atthedoorstep.Mostof country andalltheinformationis own local/regionalexhibitionintheir in textilemanufacturinghastheir ally. Almost everycountrythatis -up withCEIAandestablishment business areas.With ourrecenttie simultaneously expanding in other of processingaccessories, while made itspresencefeltinthefield tions" provider. A.T.E. hasnowalso lished itselfasa"onewindowsolu- than 7+decadeshasalreadyestab- ence inthetextilessector, withmore A.T.E. havingmadeitsstrong pres- all metals. 59 Industries -Meerut. Shivalik Prints-Faridabad, Alps ited, Balkrishnasynthetics - Boisar, ing, BombayRayonFashion Lim- Kriplon synthetics,Mandhanadye- CEIA metaldetectorTE-SLDto References : We havesupplied tomers. new successstoriesfortheircus- association arehopefulofcreating engineering giant,withtheirrecent vider, alongwith A.T.E., atextile leading &apremiersecuritypro- external interferences.CEIA-the for automaticmeasurementofthe play conceptwithbuilt-infunction reliability andarebasedonplug CEIA metaldetectorshavehigh tion &variousothersectors. textiles, plastics,mining,construc- ceuticals, foodindustry, agriculture, as transportation,shipping,pharma- They catertovarioussectorssuch trial metaldetection. fields ofindustrialandnon-indus- units acrossworld-wideinvarious credit ofsupplying100thousand tism, andtheyalsohavetotheir ents inthefieldofelectromagne- R &D.CEIAalreadyhas56pat- & astrongteamdedicatedtowards field, withacompleterobotizedplant Italian partner, arepioneersinthis to bementionedisCEIASpA,our With thistie-up,thestrongestpoint tions insafetyandsavings. Accessories", weaimtooffersolu- of ournewdivision"Processing

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association Objectives of VASTRA 2012- tile Technology andMachineries. Etc. Traditionalries Textiles,Tex- Handicrafts andFashion Accesso- Made Ups,DressMaterialsetc. Bags, Wool And WoolenProducts, Floor Coverings,SoppingandCarry Specialties, PackagingMaterials, Jewellery and Accessories, Based Handicrafts,Fashion pets, DurriesandRugs, Textile Spreads, HandloomCurtains,Car- Clothing, HandloomBedCovers/ Strolls andMadeUps,Handloom Handkerchiefs, Blankets,Shawls, Crapes,, Twill Sarees& Dress Materials,Fashion Wears, Art Silk&Sarees,MadeUps Technical Textiles, HandmadeSilk Woolen Fabrics, Yarn &MadeUps, Fibres &Blends,CottonFabrics, thetic &RayonFabrics,Handmade ment, Fabrics&Garments,Syn- Floor Mats,Curtains&Embellish- , NapkinsCushionCovers, Bath Towels, Curtains, Kitchen nishings &Made-Ups,BedLinen, Fashion & Accessories, HomeFur- Garments, Sportswear, Knitwear, (Casual &Formal) Wears, Specialty Fashion Women, Men&Kinds covering acompleterangeofHigh textiles from-FibretoFashion, showcase thebestandlatestin Textile and Apparel. Itpromisesto sive tradefairandconferenceon "VASTRA" -2012isacomprehen- u u u ties Presenting businessopportuni- chain -FibretoFashion Showcasing theentirevalue Hub andinvestmentdestination Showcasing Indiaassourcing 22-25, November 2012,Jaipur, Rajasthan Textile & Apparel Fair "VASTRA" -2012- An International opportunities Business meetingsandnetworking nologies Sourcing latestinproducts and tech- New applicationsandsolutions Enhancing corporateimage Creating brandawareness Launching newproducts ties forbusinessenhancement Showcasing productsandcapabili- tors andvisitors:- business opportunitiestotheexhibi- VASTRA-2012 offers ahostof tiles, GovernmentofIndia. being supportedbyMinistryof Tex- EPIP, Sitapura,Jaipur, India.Thisis 22nd to25thNovember, 2012at (VASTRA -2012)scheduledfrom tile and Apparel Fair2012" "VASTRA - An International Tex- Ltd. (RIICO)arejointlyorganising ment andInvestmentCorporation Rajasthan StateIndustrialDevelop- Commerce andIndustry(FICCI)& Federation ofIndianChambers u u u u u fashion, environmentalconcern. & development,newtrendsand ment, newapplications,research product andprocessimprove- Discussions anddeliberationson ability fortextileindustry Showcasing infrastructureavail- and garment crats, Govt.agenciesintextiles with experts,scientists,techno- Creating platformofinteraction ances R&D baseandstrategicalli- joint ventures,settingupof and Globalcompaniesthrough Bridging gapbetweenIndian and applications Showcasing latestintechnology 60 Manufacturers andsuppliers of: Exhibitors Profile cies Participation byGovernment Agen- Buyer -SellerMeet International andIndiandelegations ties Business &Networkingopportuni- Concurrent conferences textile craft Live demonstrationoftraditional Fashion Designers&Studios Fashion show, Businessshows States` pavilions International participation Products, Machineries,Technology entire textilevalueadditionchain- More than500exhibitorsacross area More than10000sq.mtr. exhibition Textiles & Apparel inIndia First everinternationalexhibitionon. VASTRA ExhibitionHighlights India. Infrastructure fortextileindustryin Technology andMachineries Traditional Textiles Fashion Trends Technical Textiles Made upsandaccessories Garments & Apparels Fabric Yarn Fibre as technology. fibre tofashion-productsaswell the entirevalueadditionchainfrom VASTRA-2012 aimstoshowcase Product Profile ity Exposure toinfrastructureavailabil- New Investments tegic Alliances Joint Ventures, Collaborations,Stra- May -June2012 NEWS NEWS working asVice President,OCM, Mr. A.K. Upadhyayispresently Dewas. and abroadnamedasSKNL, ganizations ofhighreputeinIndia has 35yearsofassociationwithOr- turning aroundtheoperations.He track recordandhasexpertisein cial textileexecutivewithproven and resultorientedtechnocommer- Institute, Kanpur. Heisadynamic nology), fromGovt.CentralTextile B.Tech &M.Tech. (Textile Tech- Mr. Arvind KumarUpadhyay is cific pavilions Countries andStatesthroughspe- Fashion designers Technology suppliers Dyes &Chemicals Accessories Plant &machinery to Fashion Entire productvaluechain-Fibre May -June2012 business sharethrough JTA Honorable ShriBhagatChunniLal,CabinetMinister, Punjab Grow yourorganization’s Mr. A.K. Upadhyayreceiving Award byhandsof Congratulations the hallmarkofhiscareer. Hehas in varioustextilesfieldshasbeen degree ofadaptabilitybyworking nical. Mr. Upadhyay is havingahigh Raymond), KenyaasDirector Tech- tor OperationsRupaMills(Ex Industries, Lagos,NigeriaasDirec- COO, Raymond,Digjam,Bhojsons He hasworkedwithoperationsas ment Institute,Jalandhar(Punjab). Management &IndustrialDevelop- Management Excellence Award by on 26thMay2012,awardedwith India Ltd., Amritsar wasrecently enues fornewbusinessrelation,joint vide opportunitiesforexploringav- light businessopportunitiesandpro- "VASTRA"-2012 isplannedtohigh- cation andTraining Institutions Research andDevelopment,Edu- ternational Industry Associations Sectoral Industry Associations, In- 61 heights. ture andendeavorsforscalingnew wishes himallthebestforhisfu- prestigious award. Association heartily congratulateshimforthis The Textile (India) Association In thisjoyousmomentonbehalfof of Management,Dewas,M.P. Advisory BoardinPrestigeinstitute was alsoaMemberofCorporate Conference inagrandsuccess.He ganized a65th All India Textile his leadership TAI -M.P. Unitor- tion (India),M.P. Unitandunder of TheTextileChairman Associa- Mr. Arvind Upadhyaywaspast Local Industries. by theGovt.forprotectionof including thedealingwith W.T.O. ing tariffsandotherfiscalmeasures Manufacturers Association forfix- ganization ofNigerianTextile Mills Nigeria throughtheUmbrellaOr- Industries and Textile Industryin tion forthesurvivalofM.P. Textile tively involvedinthepolicyforma- & continuousup-gradation.Heac- vision andthinkingforInnovation textile Executivewithconceptual functional versatilityofacomplete besides textiletechnology. tions inlatestdesigns&trends experts andR&Dlabsforsolu- meetings andalsointeractionwith eign buyersthroughprefixedB2B a platformforinteractionwithFor- nerships worldwide.Itwillprovide ventures, strategicallianceandpart-

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association Manager-India Timberland.Distin- was Mr. PaoloGuidotti,Country ception. Theevent'sChief Guest ebrate the8thyearofOGTC'sin- Habitat Centre,NewDelhitocel- of OGTCgatheredattheIndia night onJune27th,2012members On atypicallyhotIndiansummer and theplanet. cause ofitsemployees,thesociety consistently workingtobetterthe dium ScaleIndustries,hasbeen cludes aconsortiumofSmall&Me- apparel gatewaytoIndia,whichin- trast andcontradictionOGTC,the shelved theresolution.Intotalcon- caved intotheirdemandsand such vocalcriticismthattheGOI for CSRactivitieswasmetwith pledge 2%oftheir Annual Profits in theLarge&MediumSectorto make itmandatoryforcompanies Ministry ofCorporate Affairs to A recentrecommendationbythe Shanghai. the Rieterexhibitionstandin be alastingmemorywithvisitorsto fort ofCompetence"campaignwill The redarmchairfrom"TheCom- central focusofvisitors'interest. and highfiberutilizationwerethe offered byRieter. Energy savings tems andonthecompletesolutions discussions onthe4spinningsys- distinguished bymanyinteresting Rieter's trade-fairappearancewas Habitat Centre-NewDelhiOGTCtakingCorporate Rieter looksbackona ITMA Asia +CITME 2012 8th Annual Function on 27thJune2012atIndia successful Social Responsibilitytoanewlevel: of aspinningplant.Expertisefrom right uptothesuccessfuloperation the initialinvestmentdiscussions lives easierandsupportsthemfrom ner, Rietermakesthecustomers' staple fibers. As acompetentpart- plants producingyarnsfromshort- Rieter istheleadingsupplierfor Child Labour, Training and Employ- for employees, Awareness against include -HealthCheck-Up Camps ducting anumberofactivitieswhich working atthegrassrootlevelcon- in 2004,thebodyhasbeenquietly very seriously. Sinceit's inception OGTC takesSocialResponsibility Media andConsultants. officials Manufactures,Retailers, ets oftheindustry-includingGovt. guished Guestswerefromallfac- Chief GuestMr. PaoloGuidotti The ComfortofCompetence Delivering SpecialAddress 62 4 Rieteryarns. dressed ingarmentsmadefromthe petence" andthe4modelswere symbolizes "TheComfortofCom- a smilefrommany. Thearmchair visitors totheRieterstandanddrew models wasahighlightformany the redarmchairwith4Rieter The chancetobephotographedin of Competence The Red Armchair - The Comfort Asia +CITME2012inShanghai. on theexhibitionstandatITMA All thiswasdemonstratedbyRieter quality. vative machinesandunvaryingyarn ished textilesarethebasisforinno- the fibertoyarnandfin- OGTC. jointly byLionsService Trust and camps wereawardedcertificates nized Health&EyeCheckup CSR thecompanieswhohadorga- As recognitionofcontributionto Project. to launchtheCarbonFootprinting SME GarmentClusterintheworld in itscap,bybecomingthefirst ment Clusteraddedanotherfeather ebrate OGTC'sinception,theGar- At the8th Annual Functiontocel- Development, FireSafety, etc. Improvement, Merchandiser'sSkill productivity improvements,Quality powerment, Lean Transformation, Cancer Awareness,WomenEm- ment tothePhysicallyChallenged, Mr. PMSUppalPresident delivering Presidential Address May -June2012 NEWS and calculatetheircarbonfootprint. opted toparticipateintheprogram under theOGTCbannervoluntarily A totalof13units(detailsbelow), managers oftheparticipatingunits. management andeventheFloor sourcing heads,mid-level,junior at alllevels-seniormanagement, training programswereconducted Footprint project.Interestinglythe conducted aspartoftheCarbon spoke oftheTraining programs get involvedintheexercisethey need forthecommonmantoalso be motivated.Keepinginmindthe get themtoparticipatebetterand agement, Health&Safety, etcto Lean Management,CarbonMan- grams thattheyhaveinitiated- employees throughvariouspro- consistent commitmenttotheir root level.TheyspokeofOGTC's issue ofglobalwarmingatthegrass OGTC waskeenontacklingthe rector General,highlightedhow OGTC andMr. RCKesar-Di- vein, Mr. PMSUppal-President, bon emissionmitigation.Inasimilar was fortheplanettoworkoncar- of theissueandhowessentialit taken. Hespokeoftheimportance Footprinting' thatOGTChadunder- duced theconceptof'Carbon Mehra -Director, OGTC,intro- Opening theproceedings,Mr. M.K OGTC wereawardedthe Bronze front andannouncedabout how tion ofOGTC'sworkonthe social Mr. Kesaralsospokeofrecogni- May -June2012 NEWS Releasing ofOGTCNewsletterby Chief GuestMr. PaoloGuidotti and anexplanationofthevarious bon Footprintprojectwashighlighted agement. TheprogressoftheCar- the globeoncarbonemissionman- ground ofvariousretailersacross and showcasedtheactionson portance ofCarbonManagement Chief Guest.Hespokeoftheim- OGTC GoesgreenPosterbythe were dimmedforthereleaseof bon Managementconsultants),lights Consultant fromCoolEarth(Car- Pranam Reddy, SeniorManaging Before thePresentationbyMr. ity. sustainability andsocialresponsibil- Certificate fortheirworkon Excellence InitiativeBronzeLabel medal bytheEuropeanCluster presented BenchmarkingCertificate Mr. M.K.Mehra,being Presidentof founder membersofFAPTA. founder members,thereare no other sociation (FAPTA). Besidesthese9 TextileProfessional As- of Asian tion and themainfoundersofFedera- MoA wereitssignatory, originator Kong, whodiscussedanddraftedthe pan andDr. K.W. Yeung fromHong wan, Dr. MasaoTakahashi fromJa- Dr. C.H.Lin&Dr. S.C. Yao fromTai- & Dr. Soukil Mah fromSouthKorea, from India,Dr. S.K.Song,Dr. S.Y. Kim Maj. R.P. Poddar& Dr. N.M.Swami A groupof9individualsconsists Mr. PaoloGuidottiChiefGuest to Mr. PMSUppal ASIAN TEXTILECONFERENCE 63 nal andon TAI website. details willbeannouncedinour Jour- website formoreinformation. Website conference andvisittheirofficial are invitedtotakeparticipationinthis tile educational&researchInstitutes Chairman forthesame. All related tex- 2013 andProf.JaeR. Youm willbethe Next ATC-12 willbeheldatChina in Delhi in1991. organized by TAI DelhiunitatNew the ConferenceCommitteefor1st ATC dent andMr. P.S. JainasChairman of the hostunit,wasfounderPresi- ing theircarbonemissionfootprint. would beaskedtoworkonreport- that moresuppliersacrosstheglobe Going forwardthereislittledoubt being givenbythemajorretailers. importance totheissue&attention tion, hehighlightedthegrowing tives inplacewithintheirorganiza- home frontandthevariousinitia- tails of Timberland's efforts onthe customers ofOGTC.Sharingde- / stipulationfromtheretailersor voluntarily withoutanycompulsion such anexercisewastakenup More impressivewasthefactthat of thecoordinatedactiontakenup. OGTC, hewasveryappreciative Timberland. Laudingtheefforts of Chief GuestMr. PaoloGuidotti, The finalspeakerofthenightwas tion oftheprojectwasprovided. steps involvedintheimplementa- Eminent Personalitiesatthe Function

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association be anInternationalForumforthose lenges andFutureDirections"will Sustainability -Opportunities,Chal- "Enhancing Health, Wellbeing and International Conference2013on About theConference u u u u cialize inoneofthefourdisciplines: toral program.Studentscanspe- from thejuniorcollegetodoc- It offersaneducationthatranges lenges ofachangingmodernIndia. powering womentofacethechal- tute, withtheprimaryaimofem- aged bytheNirmalaNiketanInsti- It isa'grant-in-aid'Institution,man- ated totheUniversityofMumbai. only HomeScienceCollegeaffili- the uniquedistinctionofbeing Science CollegesinIndiaandhas 1955, isoneofthepremierHome The College,foundedintheyear - 12thJanuary2013 lenges andFutureDirectionson10th Sustainability. Opportunities,Chal- ence onHealth, Wellbeing, and organizing An InternationalConfer- Mumbai -INDIAishostingand Science, UniversityofMumbai, Nirmala NiketanCollegeofHome Nirmala NiketanCollegeofHomescience ment Community ResourceManage- Textile andFashion Technology Human Development, Foods, NutritionandDietetics, JTA :Comprehensive platformtoserve Readers & Advertisers An InternationalConferenceonHealth, u u u u u Important Dates Positivityand Wellness 4. Healthand Wellbeing 3. SocialJusticeIssuesand 2. EnvironmentalConcernsand 1. deliberations. others raisedinthecourseof above issuesandchallenges conference willhelpdealwiththe It ishopedthatinteractionsatthe field ofEducationandResearch. pects andthelatestresultsin opportunity todiscussthemainas- and innovations,havingalsothe who wishtopresenttheirprojects professionals fromtheindustry, and students, academicians,practitioners, This conferencewillbecateringto ence? Who shouldattendthisConfer- Wellbeing, andSustainability- Last datetosubmitfinalfull Last datetosubmitauthors' Early birdregistration-15th Last datetoissueNotification Last datetosubmit Abstract - Sustainability Sustainability 2012 length paper-23rdNovember 2012 registration -15thOctober October 2012 30th September2012 of acceptanceabstract- 2012 31st August 64 ence visit:www.ic2013nn.com For moredetailsabouttheconfer- u u u u u u u u u u u u u u u u u u u u u u u u u plines - entrepreneurs, fromvarieddisci- Fashion Stylists Fashion Designers Textile Processors Textile Specialists Educationists Social Workers Psychiatrists Counselors Psychologists Psychologists Medical and Allied Personnel Dieticians Nutritionists mental organizationalpersonnel. Government andNon-Govern- professionals Human ResourceManagement sonnel Media andCommunicationper- ity in HousekeepingandHospital- Supervisory personnelinvolved Agriculturalists Environmentalists Ergonomists Philosophers Anthropologists Human RelationsManagers Interior Designers Exporters Garment Manufacturersand May -June2012 NEWS for TAI activitiesandheactively comfortable. Themanalwayslived the waytomakeG.C. members In Vadodara, hetried togooutof and nevertalkedbadaboutanyone. He alwaysencouragedeveryone tional figureandfountainofspirit. Vadodara Unit,buthewasaNa- very importantrolenotonlyfor very activeandindeedheplayed (London) & ATA qualified,wasa Prof. Gupta,B.Sc,D.T.C., AMIET on 03rdJuly2012. passed awayattheageof84years dia), BarodaUnit,accidentally son ofTheTextile Association (In- Prof. R.P. Gupta,mosthumbleper- projects and,asourorders backlog "Our customersarefinalising many ASIA. - Businesswasgoodat ITMA Evelyne CHOLET. AMELINE andSecretaryGeneral, Association's President,Bruno ery manufacturers,their textile journalistsandthemachin- possible directcontactsbetweenthe formal andfriendlymeetingmade in ShanghaithisJune2012.Thein- the endofITMA ASIA +CITME Manufacturers The French Textile Machinery May -June2012 NEWS Prof. R.P. Gupta Obituary (1928-2012) War againstcopycatsatITMA ASIA invitedthepressat ficer. HerepresentedM.S.Univer- member and20yearsas ACC of- years andthen10asfaculty sity inDeptofChemistryfor34 Prof. GuptaservedinM.S.Univer- number ofarticlesinjournals. Conferences. Hehaspublished (India) duringthe All India Textile awarded bytheTextile Association ent ofServiceGoldMedalin1982 Memento in1979andthenrecipi- was thefirstrecipientofService 1960 &27th-1970).Prof.Gupta ences inBaroda(9th-1952,20th hosted 3 All India Textile Confer- Best Unittrophy. BarodaUnit Baroda unit,wasawardedtwice Under hisdynamicleadershipTAI a memberofvariouscommittees. the TAI central office. Also hewas most G.C. memberandtrusteeof dent of Association. Hewassenior Secretary, Vice PresidentandPresi- worked onvariouspositionsasHon. (India), BarodaUnitsince1966and sociated with Textile Association Prof. Guptawasveryactivelyas- any thing. expected personalbenefitsoutof and nevergetsangryalso worked forit.Hewasalwayshappy tion ofthe Technology Upgradation tion eventhoughtheimplementa- dustry needsanurgentmoderniza- ness inIndia,wherethetextile in- larly enthusiasticaboutfuturebusi- Some manufacturerswereparticu- Evelyne CHOLET. our serviceapproach¡¨reports ested byournewtechnologiesand booths, theywereparticularlyinter- stan, ThailandandIranvisitedour course butalsofromIndia,Paki- ducers. CustomersfromChinaof creasing forallthemachinerypro- is alreadygood,deliverytimein- 65 stand theloss. members allthecouragetowith- Almighty togivebereavedfamily the departedsoul. We alsopray mighty tobestoweternalpeace Association (India). We pray Al- yeoman's serviceto The Textile and feelhonorforproviding never forgethismissionaryservices The Textile Association (India)will expert &master. physical exercisesinwhichheis ing anysortofhabitsotherthan punctual intimebondandnothav- ing andlivehealthy".Hewasvery the sloganthat"Behappy, belaugh- organizations. Heusedtoconvey eral localsocialandeducational also activelyassociatedwithsev- Volunteer (sinceyear1940), was Prof. R.P. GuptabasicallyaR.S.S. versity results. Senior Tabulator inpreparingUni- his servicesmorethan20yearsas press. Prof.Guptaalsocontributed Press SupervisorinUniversity cities ofIndia.HewasalsoSenior university competitionsinvarious sity formorethan15timesininter - Butthemaintopicat press nology partnersinmanysectors". they canrelyonustobetheir tech- and energysavings,theyknow cesses whichbringrawmaterials source efficientproductionpro- markets, newproducts,andre- companies. Theyareaimingatnew invest forthefutureoftheirown tomers havearealwillingnessto Bruno AMELINE isthatourcus- "But whatisimportantanalyzes turmoils whichtookplace. ern countriesduetothepolitical delays arenoticedinMiddleEast- through somedelays. Also some by theIndiangovernmentisgoing Fund Scheme(TUFS)putinplace

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association Interest inthecombined show re- show. prehensive rangeproducts from this find outtheneedamongcom- return ontheirinvestmentandto players arelookingatagreater effective solution, Asian industry scape, thereisbigdemandforcost- In todays'challengingbusinessland- textile makinghubsinthecountry. cially Chinesevisitorsfrommajor response from Asian buyers,espe- The expohasdrawnoverwhelming at the5dayevent. tries andregionshaveparticipated than 1230exhibitorsfrom27coun- the previousshowin2010andmore square metresi.e.30%largerthan expo hasagrossareaof132,000 tional 6000sqmexhibitionspace,the exhibitors demand. With theaddi- additional exhibitionspacetomeet ASIA +CITMEheldtheexpoon economic climate,ownersofITMA Despite currentchallengesinthe hai, China. tional ExpoCentre(SNIEC),Shang- 2012 attheShanghaiNewInterna- chinery forfivedaysfrom12thJune the latesttechnologyintextilema- exhibition geareduptoshowcase The thirdITMA ASIA +CITMA tional tradeagreementsisgiven cats whichispartoftheinterna- Fortunately thisfightagainstcopy- other intellectualrights." protecting ourpatents,brandsorany technology breakthroughsandon Research andDevelopment,on because ourstrategyisbasedon tinue tofightallovertheworld AMELINE. We fightandwillcon- "It isaglobalwar, saidBruno copycats. meeting wasthewaragainst ITMA ASIA +CITMEdrawn overwhelming response (JTMA) wasaspecialpartner as- Textile Machinery Association International Pte.Ltd.The Japan Co. Ltd.andCo-organizedbyMP Machinery InternationalExhibition organized bytheBeijing Textile ITMA ASIA +CITME2012was many, Italy, Japan andSwitzerland. terms ofspacebookingwereGer- bigger participatingcountriesin exhibition space.NexttoChina,the booked around50%ofthetotal tors madethebiggestcountrygroup, handling topacking.Chineseexhibi- ting, processing,,testing, spinning, nonwovens,weaving,knit- played over17sectors,rangingfrom a hugeshowcaseofexhibitsdis- ITMA ASIA +CITME2012boast imports totaledUS$5.36billions. amounted toUS$2.25billionwhile billion in2011. Ofthissum,exports growth of25%toreachUS$7.6 trade registeredayear-on-year China's textilemachineryforeign Customs statisticsrevealthat and technologyisontherise.China demand foradvancedmachinery Industry continuestotransform,the manufacturers, asChina'stextile from Chinesetextilemachinery mained extremelystrong,especially chines werecoveredduringthefair against unfaircompetitionandma- ative machinerymanufacturers CITME arealsohelpingthecre- Such organizations asITMA ASIA+ sentenced tojail. and someofthesehaveevenbeen infringement byunfaircompetitors members significantdamagesfor positive judgmentshavegivenour In China,forexample,somevery ernments andthejudicialsystems. more andsupportbythegov- 66 CITME 2012exhibition,Shanghai. ciation visitedtheITMA ASIA + lisher, Journalofthe Textile Asso- tion (India),Mr. J.B.Soma,Pub- On behalfofThe Textile Associa- (CIEC). Exhibition CenterGroupCorp CTMA, andtheChinaInternational national Trade (CCPITTEX),the Council forthepromotionofInter- of Textle IndustryoftheChina by theCEMATEX, theSubCouncil sociation oftheshow. Itisowned [email protected] http ://www.ucmtf.com -e-mail : Fax :(33)147176348 Tel :(33)147176345 CEDEX -FRANCE 92038 PARIS LA DEFENSE ERS' ASSOCIATION MACHINERY MANUFACTUR- FRANCE FRENCHTEXTILE DE MATERIEL TEXTILE DE UNION DESCONSTRUCTEURS on otherexhibitors'patents. because theywerefoundtoinfringe Textsmile too. Ican'tworkinthedark." The mansays,"I'mgoing home, ing?" the bosssays,"Where are yougo- The manstartstofollowherand day off." crazy. Ithinkyouneedtotakethe working somuchthatyou'vegone The bossthensays,"You've been bulb." The womanreplies, "I'malight are youdoing?" The bosscomesinandsays,"What from theceiling. see." Shethenhangsupside-down The womansays,"Justwaitand you dothat?" The manreplies, "Andhowwould boss givemethedayoff." The womansays,"Icanmakethe Two workersare factory talking. May -June2012 NEWS NEWS May -June2012 Subscribe now Subscribe for 2or3 yearsandgetmore discount Glimpses ofITMA ASIA +CITME2012

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Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association Website : E-mail : Fax : Tel. : Contact : Venue: Date : Vastra 2012,International Textile & Apparel Fair E-mail : Fax : Tel. : Contact : Venue : Date : Textile machineryExhibition INDIA ITME2012-9thIndiaInternatioal Fax : Tel. : Tel. : Contact : Organizer : Venue : Date : International YarnExhibition INDIA Venue : Date : 51st DornbirnMan-MadeFiberCongress ABROAD • • All rightsreserved. ofitmaybereproduced Neitherthispublicationnoranypart inanyform orby ismadetoensureEvery effort thattheinformationgiveniscorrect. You are however, advisedtore- of theeditor-publisher. any means,normayitbe printed,photocopiedorstored onmicrofilm without thewrittenpermission travel plans. check thedateswithorganizers, foranychange inschedule,venueetc.,before finalizingyour www.ficci.com, www.vastratex.com [email protected], [email protected] +91-141 5116464 +91-141 2621345,5103768,4061345, - 302004,Rajasthan,India No. A-27-B, ShantiPath, Tilak Nagar, Jaipur cil 202,RajputanaTower, 2ndFloor, House and Industry(FICCI),RajasthanStateCoun- Federation ofIndianChambersCommerce Mr. Amit Gupta,Senior Assistant Director EPIP, Sitapura,Jaipur, India 22nd to25thNovember2012 [email protected] +91-22- 22851578 +91-22-2202 0032/2282813222851579 Point, Mumbai-400021. Tower, 'B'Wing 7th Floor, 210Nariman India ITME,SocietyRouteMap76Mittal Mumbai Bombay Convention&ExhibitionCentre, 2-7 December2012 +(91)-(80)-2554471 +(91)-(80)-41151841 /2554471 Road, Laxmipure,Bengaluru,India. No. 34,SecondFloor, 17thCross,Cmh +91-80-41151841 SendOnlineEnquiry Mr. P. KrishnaMurthy IKF complex,Tiruppur 31 Aug. -02Sept.2012 Dornbirn, Austria The KulturhausDornbirnCongressCentre, September 19-21,2012 SS Textile MediaPrivateLimited 68 Website : E-mail : Tel. : Contact : Venue : Date : Largest Textile Exhibition &GarmentMachinery IGATEX 2012 E-mail : Tel. : Contact : Venue : Date : tile Chemistry, Finishing&Functionalization. inthefieldof ence speciallyfortheexperts Tex- Aachen Dresden isaninternationaltextilconfer- ence 2012 TextileInternationl DresdenConfer- 6th Aachen E-mail : Fax : Tel. : Contact : Venue : Date : 28th IAF World Apparel Convention2012 Fax : Tel. : Contact : MarierSolle Ms Annett Dorfel CongressOffice: www.igatex.pk [email protected] +92-21 35810637,Fax:35810636 Clitton, Karachi,Pakistan Ltd., 304,3rdFloor, ClittonCentre,Block-5 Project ManagerFAKT Exhibitors(Pvt) Expo Centre,Lahore,Pakistan 3rd to6thOctober2012 www.aachen-dresden-itc.de [email protected] +49 (0)35146339321 Dresden, Germay formance Material Technology at TU Institue of Textile MachineryandHighPer- Germany November 29-30,2012 [email protected] +31 302320999 +31 302320901 Bregenz, Austria 2, A-6900 Romerstrasse Portugal Sheraton PartoHotel&Spa,(Oporto), September 24-28,2012 +43 (0)5574434434 +43 (0)557454720 Bregenz, Austria 2, A-6900 Romerstrasse Osterreichisches Chemief Aser Institut (Austrian -MFI) Austrian ManMadeFibersInstitute FORTHCOMING EVENTS May -June2012