A Complete Guide to the English Lakes, by Haeeiet Maetineau
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j 4nvalvT.i-UtVT.. TJlViKJtPOO'J3 Victorian 914.28 M366c 1855 Joseph Earl and Genevieve Thornton Arlington Collection of 19th Century Americana Brigham Young University Library BRIGHAM YOUNG UNIVERSITY 3 1197 22886 4440 COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE ENGLISH LAKES COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE ENGLISH LAKES BY HARRIET MAHTINEAU, ILLUSTRATED FROM DRAWINGS BY T. L. ASPLAND AND W. BANKS, &rib a IHap Coloured ffireolostcallg bg Stfyn Eutfj&tn* TO WHICH AEE ADDED AN ACCOUNT OF THE FLOWERING PLANTS, FERNS, AND MOSSES OF THE DISTRICT, AND A COMPLETE DIBECTOET. WINDERMERE : — JOHN GARNETT. LONDON: — WHITTAKEB AND CO. WINDERMERE: PRINTED BY JOHN GARNETT. OPfi PREFACE. The Knoll, Ambleside, March 12, 1855. It is now some months since I com- mitted the manuscript of this Lake Guide to the publisher's hands; and now that the work is just ready to appear, I am thankful to him for the opportunity of saying in this prefatory page, with what pride and pleasure I have looked over the accessories and embellishments with which by his zeal and spirit, and by the admirable cooperation he has been so fortunate as to secure, my humble work is elevated to a quality of real importance. 11. PEEPACE. When I look at Mr. Htjthven's valuable geological Map, Mr. Aspland's beautiful illustrative Views, so finely engraved by- Mr. Banks ; and, again, the Botanical contributions, so essential to the perfect understanding of the Lake District, it seems to me that the book has become, by all this aid, one which may not only be in every tourist's hands, but find a place on the library shelves of those who have never visited, and may not contem- plate visiting, this district of England. At the same time, the Directories, (a new feature in a Guide Book) are likely to make it valuable to residents, who need no guide to the scenery near their homes. If my gratitude to my coadjutors causes me to overrate the product of our labours, I shall not at least be mistaken in saying that we have all done our best to set forth a true presentment of a land we love 3 in the hope of inducing and enabling those PREFACE. HI. who live in town or plain to know and love it as we do. If any think that we have painted it too fair, and that we love it fanatically, let them come and see. H. MARTINEAU. CONTENTS, PART L Page. WlNDERMERE ... ... ... ... ... 3 BOWNESS ... ... ... ... ... 9 Walk by Cook's House ... ... ... 14 Steamboat Trip ... ... ... 16 First Tour. To Furness Abbey and Coniston ... ... 21 Second Tour. To Patterdale and Ambleside ... 33 Third Tour. To Skelwith and Grasmere ... ... 45 A day on the Mountains ... ... ... ... 57 PART II. To Keswick from Ambleside ... ... ... ... 67 Excursions from Keswick ... ... ... 74 I. Derwent Water ... ... ... 74 II. By Watendlath to Borrowdale and back by Lodore ... ... ... ... 76 III. By Vale of Newlands to Scale Hill, and back byWhinlatter ... ... ... 83 IV. Circuit of Bassenthwaite ... ... 88 V. Ascent of Skiddaw ... ... ... 90 VI. Ascent of Saddleback ... ... 94 PART III. CIRCUIT OE THE LAKE DISTRICT. First Tour. From Keswick by Patterdale to Ambleside... 103 Second Tour. From Ambleside to Strands ... 106 11. CONTENTS. Page. Thied Toue. From Strands and Wastwater to Scale Hill Inn ... ... ... ... ... ... 118 Fotjeth Totte. From Scale Hill to Keswick by Honister Crag... 131 PART IV. PASSES AND MOUNTAINS. Langdale from Borrowdale, by the Stake Pass 145 Path to Easedale ... 148 Path to Esk Hause 150 Sty Head Pass, from Wastdale to Borrowdale ... 152 Ascent of Scawpell 157 Pass of Scarf Gap ... ... 161 Grisedale 163 Ascent of Helyellyn ... 164 Coniston Old Man 167 Walna Scar ... ... ... ... ... 167 Hawes Water ... 170 Pass of Nanbield ... 174 Weather in the Lake District 177 PART V. PLOWEEING PLANTS, TEENS, AND MOSSES. Windermere and its Neighbourhood 181 Cumberland 192 PART VI. DIEECTOEY. The postal address of the Aristocracy, Gentry and Tradespeople of the District. INDEX Adventure on Esk Hause 116 Bowfell, 7, 48, 146, 179 Ambleside 41, 46, 56, 213 Bowscale Tarn 101 Mill 56 Brackenthwaite 232 Ancient Customs 138 Braithwaite 87, 226 Anecdote of Charcoal Burner 23 Brathay 19, 44, 46 Angle Tarn 40, 105, 145 Bridal of Triermain 70 Applethwaite, Cumberland 93 Brothers' Water 37. 180 „ Outline of Mountains 93 Broughton Tower 107 Approach to Lakes 5 Brougham Castle and Hall 171 Ara Force 39, 104, 180 Buttermere 86, 131, 180, 229 „ View of, facing Titlepage „ Hawes 179 Armboth Fells 69 Cairn on Dunmail Raise 68 Atmospheric Changes 15, 50, 52 Calder Abbey 122 Barf (mountain) 89 „ Bridge 122 Barrow House 76 Calgarth 43 „ Fall 76, 180 „ Woods 15 Bassenthwaite Lake 71, 88, 180, 226 Candlemas Settlements 140 Beacon 15 Carrock Fell 179 Bewitched Cow 142 Castle Crag 72, 81 Birker Force 117, 180, 231 Castlehead, Derwent 74 Bishop Watson 15 Castlehill, view from 77 Biscut How 9 Castlerigg, view from 71 Black Cap (mountain) 145 Castle Rock 70 Blackcombe 57 107, 179 Cat Bells (mountain) 72, 179 Blacklead Mines 155 Catchedecam 164 Blacksail 161 Causey Pike 179 „ Adventures on 126 Char and Trout 20, 32 Blakefell „ 127 Charges at Hotels 10 Bleaberry Tarn 133 Charles Lamb on Skiddaw 93 Blea Tarn 115, 147 Cheese (hard) 144 Blea Water, High Street 173 Christopher North 13, 60 Blelham Tarn 36 Churning 142 Blencathra (mountain) 96, 179 Clappersgate 7, 15, 44 Boats, instructions about 20 Climate 192 Bobbin Mills 42, 47 Cockley Beck 115 Bowness 9, 209 Codale Fell 149 „ Parish Church 11 Cold Fell 124 „ Quay 11 Coldfield (mountain) 37 „ Rectory 11 Colouring of Foliage 12 Borrowdale 77, 135, 152, 227 Colwith Bridge and Force 114 180 „ Anecdotes of 77 Cook's House 16, 33 „ Echoes 82 Coniston Lake 26, 28, 167, 180, 217 „ Yews 156 „ View of 28 „ Hawes 179 „ Old Man 7, 27, 58, 167, 179 Botany 181 Copper Mine 168 Bowder Stone 80 Craig 9 „ View of 152 Croft Lodge 7 11. INDEX. Crosthwaite Church 71, 83 Gowder Crag 82 Crummock Water 84, 180 Grange, Borrowdale 81 „ Outline of Mountains 84 Grasmere 49, 52, 137, 164, 180, 219 Cuckoo in Borrowdale 78 „ View of 49 Curwen's Island 12 Grassmoor 85, 179 Daffodils and Snowdrops 46 Great End 114 Dale Head 227 Great Gable 129, 145, 179 Dale Management 143 Great Robinson (mountain) 84 Deepdale 105 Greta Bank 102 Deepening foot of Windermere Lake 17 „ Hall, 83 Derwent Lake 71, 80 „ River 92, 102 „ View of 74 Grisedale 163 „ Eiver, 80, 89, 145 „ Pike 179 Devoke Water 169 Tarn 163 Dove Nest 18 Guides on Mountains 58, 90, 159 Drainage 18 Hanging Knotts 145 Drinking 140 Hardknot 117 Druidical Remains 170 Harrison Stickle (Langdale Pike) 147 Druids' Temple 94 Harter Fell 172 „ Legend of 94 Hartley Coleridge 52 Dunmail Raise 68, 49 Hartsop 37, 105 Dunnerdale 232 Haunted House, anecdote of 69 Duddon 107 Hawes Water 88, 180 Dungeon Ghyll 48, 180 Hawks and Buzzards 62 Eagles 153 Hawkshead 29, 220 Eagle Crag 145, 152 Hawlghyll 114, 118 Easedale Tarn 51, 149 Hays Water 40, 105 Ecclerigg 18 Hayrick (mountain) 84 Egremont 124 Helm Crag (Lion and the Lamb) 49 „ Traditions of 125 Helvellyn 49, 179 Elizabeth Smith 28 „ ascent of 163 Elleray 7 Heronry 53 Elterwater Powder Mills 48 Hesket Hawes 170 Ennerdale 125, 180, 230 Highest inhabited House in England 36 Enviable Abode 15 Highstile 84 Eskdalelll, 113,231 High Street 7, 34, 105, 172, 174, 179 Esk Hause 150 Hill Bell 7, 179 Esthwaite Water 29, 180 High Close 49, 147 Fairfield 7, 58, 179 High Crag 84 Falcon Crags 82 High Pike 179 Fell Foot, Langdale 115 Honister Crag 133, 179 Ferry, Windermere 12, 13, 32 View of 133 " Finest View in Westmorland " 48 Hotels, charges at 10 Fishing 12 Ibbotsholme 43 Flintoft's Model 72 Irt, river 114 Floating Island, Derwent 75 Keskadale 84 Foliage 13 Kentmere 175 Foxes 168 Keswick 72, 222 Fox How 41, 55 Kirkstone Pass 179 Furness Abbey 24 Kinniside 230 Gaitsgarth 133 Kidsty Pike 172 Gaits Tarn 168 Kirkfell 126 Ghost Stories of Souter Fell 97 Knot Crag 102 Giant's Grave 171 Lakes, length, breadth, and depth of 180 Gillerthwaite 161 Lamplugh Cross 130 Glaramara 77 Langdale 48, 114, 146, 217 Glencoin 38 Tarn 114 Glenderatera, river 102 Langdale Pikes 7, 15, 46, 147, 179 Gowbarrow Park 37, 104 Latrigg 92, 179 INDEX. 111. Lead Mines 163 Picturesque Farmsteads 32, 47 Legberthwaite 70, 227 Pillar 161, 179 Legend of Ara Force 38 Place Fell 37, 105, 163 Levers Water 169 Portinscale 83, 225 Lilly of the Valley 19 Pretty Scenery 17 Ling Crag 85 Priest among the Shepherds 62 Lingmell (mountain) 114, 119 Professor Wilson 13 Linthwaite Woods 86 Primitive farms 47 Fell 100 Provisions for Pedestrians 57 Little Langdale 148 Pull Cottage 19 Long Meg and her Daughters 170 Pullwyke Bay 19 Loughrigg, 7, 12, 46, 49, 58 Railway to Windermere 4 „ Tarn and Terrace 50 „ in Lake District 5, 144 Lord Derwentwater 75 Eain Guages 62 Lord's Island 75 Rampsholm, Derwent 74 Lord's Seat (mountain) 89, 179 Eannersdale Knot 185 Lorton 89 Raven Crag 27 Lowdore Cascade 81, 180 Rayrigg 15, 18 Loweswater, 130, 180, 228 Rectory, Windermere 11 Low Man 92 Red Bank 49 Lowther Castle 172 Red Pike 84, 86, 179 Lowwater Tarn 168 Red Tarn 164, 180 Lowwood Hotel 18, 58 Robert Walker, the wonderful 108 Lyulph's Tower 38 Roman Road 34, 174 Mardale 36, 230 Rosset GUI 150 Measand 230 Rosthwaite 77, 80 Mellfell 104 Rothay, river 19 Middlefell 114 Rotten Pulpit 147 Milbeck, Keswick 93 Route to the Lakes 3 „ Langdale 147 Ruins by Moonlight 26 Millbreak 85 Rydal Lake 50, 53, 180 Miller Brow (unsurpassed view) 15 „ Mount 47, 54 Mists on Mountains 63 „ Falls 180 Miterdale 113 „ Forrest 58 Mosedale 16, 120 „ Head 179 Mosses and Ferns 189 „ Outline of Mountains 54 Mountains, a Day on the 57 Santon Bridge 113 height of 179 St.