BELLA COOLA VALLEY VISITOR GUIDE IN THE HEART OF THE GREAT BEAR RAINFOREST

www.bellacoola.ca CONTENTS 4 Getting Here Getting Around the Valley 7 Explore Port Hardy 9 Connecting With the Past: A Brief History 10 Venturing Forth Venturing West out the Channel Hooking the BIG Ones! 14 Experience the Valley 21 Experience the Wild Side 26 Geology, Ecology and Wildlife 27 Arts and Culture 31 Valley Accommodation Tom Hermance Tom 32 Map

The Visitor Information Booth is located at the Copper Sun Gallery and Journeys building (summer months only). Phone (250) 799-5202 This Visitor Guide and Trail Guide on reverse have been produced by Bella Coola Valley Tourism with special thanks to Jessie MacDonald, Ernest Hall, BC Ferries, Tom Hermance, Jayme Kennedy, Jefferson Bray, Doug Baker, Holly Wilgress, Hans Granander, Ken Dunsworth, Carsten Ginsburg, Jan Prins, Caitlin Thompson, the Bella Coola Trails Alliance and Central Coast Communications Society. Photography credits: Michael Wigle, Jefferson Bray, Jayme Kennedy, Doug Baker, Fawn Gunderson, Hans Granander, Ernest Hall, Laurie Sissons, Tom Hermance and To Prince George Prince Rupert Benjamin Westerik. For their invaluable advice and contributions, BCVT is especially grateful to: Snxakila Hagensborg Hwy 97 (Clyde Tallio), Ximximlayc (Robert “Skip” Saunders), Sixilaaxayc (Noel Pootlas), Great Bear Chris Nelson, Crystal Schooner, Wally Webber and Karen Anderson. BCVT also Rainforest acknowledges the Nuxalk Development Corporation for providing the venue for the Williams Lake Visitor Information Booth. BCVT is a member of the Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Tourism Association and the Bella Hwy 20 Hwy 97 Commercial Bear Viewing Association of BC. Coola Cover photos: Michael Wigle, Benjamin Westerlk. Port Hardy Hwy 99 Cover design and production: Roger Handling/ Terra Firma Digital Arts. Printed in Canada. All rights reserved. © 2019. Bella Coola Valley Tourism – To Whistler Circle Tour and Vancouver Box 670, Bella Coola, BC V0T 1C0. and Port Hardy ferry route Vancouver Unauthorized reproduction is prohibited. This guide does not constitute and should not be construed as an endorsement or recommendation. Bella Coola Valley Tourism does not assume any responsibility for any carrier, hotel, restaurant or any other Victoria facility or activity in British Columbia. Errors and omissions excepted. Opposite: Opposite: BCVT/Michael Wigle

2 | (250) 799-5202 | www.bellacoola.ca | Visit Bella Coola Welcome Yaw smatmc

to the Bella Coola Valley: In the Heart of Hello, my friend British Columbia’s Great Bear Rainforest My name is Sixilaaxayc. My The Bella Coola valley is a place smayusta (Creation story) tells of of rare beauty. Encircled by snow the abundance that came at the covered mountains, defined by a time of Creation when the land world-class salmon river that’s fed tilted toward Chief Sixilaaxayc and by the purest of waters, the valley Q’umk’uts on the bank of the river is one of the gemstones of British near where I live now. Columbia’s Central Coast. One hundred years ago, several long Located in the heart of the Great houses stood at that place. Long Bear Rainforest and bordered before that, at the time of Creation, by Tweedsmuir Park to the east, the tilting land brought much the valley offers an exceptional abundance to the Valley of Nuxalk, combination of wild forest, sheer- which means in my language sided granite mountains and the “becoming one.” I welcome you exquisite that to our Valley, where all you see is flows into the Central Coast’s maze sacred. of fjords and inlets. Steeped in over 10,000 years of Nuxalk culture I hope you enjoy the scenery, the and tradition, the valley combines rich history, and the abundance. these breath-taking elements into Please enjoy your stay. an unforgettable, life-enriching experience that we welcome Sixilaaxayc (Noel Pootlass), visitors to experience and share Nuxalk Nation Head Hereditary Chief with us. and Artist

Central Coast Regional District

ODEGAARD FALLS

(250) 799-5202 | www.bellacoola.ca | Visit Bella Coola | 3 GETTING HERE: THE ADVENTURE BEGINS

ew places in the world combine sanctuary to a host of wildlife species trading commodity of fish oil. authentic wilderness with comfort, thriving in undisturbed wilderness. And At the subalpine , the and remoteness with accessibility the further still, beyond the snow-capped moist influence of the Pacific is evident as

BCVT/Michael Wigle F way the Bella Coola Valley does. horizon, the Great Bear Rainforest on British Highway 20 begins its spectacular descent The glacier-carved valley of the Bella Columbia’s Central Coast. toward the sea. Coola River winds its way through the At , the pavement yields to Here the modern adventurer can gaze far mountains to the sea at the head of one of an all-season gravel road—with a maximum below at the thin ribbon of road ahead. The British Columbia’s longest inlets about 450 speed of 80 km/h (50 mph). Where the “highway” winds down the mountainside to km (270 mi) northwest of Vancouver. telephone and electric power lines end a the valley floor and meanders seaward toward short distance later, the true wilderness the heart of the Great Bear Rain Forest BY LAND: THE HWY 20 begins. Here in this pristine region, the sweeping beyond the horizon left and right. ADVENTURE chance of spotting moose, wolves, black From the Pass, today’s adventurer All who approach the Bella Coola Valley bears, and grizzlies becomes a distinct descends the “Freedom Road”, dubbed such via Highway 20 for the first time experience possibility, and the ancient practices of because its construction through the pass the driving adventure of a lifetime. hunting, trapping, and fishing remain a vital in 1953 ended the isolation of the Bella From its headwaters high on British part of the local culture. Coola Valley. “The Hill” is no longer the Columbia’s central plateau, the river scours At the eastern boundary of Tweedsmuir hair-raising spectacle that once discouraged its way down through the Provincial Park, a glance to the north detects faint hearted travelers with its 18% grades to saltwater at its mouth, providing a the mountain pass where Alexander Mackenzie, and hair-pin switchbacks. Today, tractor corridor for overland access from Williams one of North America’s first great adventurers, trailer rigs, supplying the valley merchants, Lake via Highway 20. This highway—paved entered the history books in 1793 with his travel the grades and curves regularly, and to Anahim Lake (319km/192 mi)—is in overland journey across North America to the the fearsome reputation of “The Hill” far itself an unparalleled adventure through waters of the Pacific at the mouth of the Bella outstrips its reality. the semi-arid forests and ranchlands of the Coola River. Here the imagination can conjure Suddenly—pavement again. At the , with the white gleaming up parties of First Nations peoples throughout posted speeds, you have covered the 62 km peaks of the Coast Mountains drawing the the millennia trekking up from the coast (37 mi) of gravel road in about an hour. The visitor westward into the Chilcotin Ark, over the “Grease Trail” bearing their precious remaining 80 km (50 mi) to the saltwater at

4 | (250) 799-5202 | www.bellacoola.ca | Visit Bella Coola Island, north to Port Hardy, ferrying to Bella Coola, and driving out across the Chilcotin Plateau, returning south through Whistler and back to Vanvouver. This Circle Tour takes the traveler through some 11 of the 14 commonly Identified eco-zones on Planet Earth. This four-to-five- day road trip is rivaled by few other such journeys. Of course the reverse (counter-clockwise) tour is equally varied and spectacular. BY AIR: A BIRDS EYE EXPERIENCE By scheduled daily air service from Vancouver, in little more than an hour you DRAMATIC FJORDS can descend into the Valley after an awe-inspiring bird’s eye adventure. the end of Highway 20 winds with the river One of the world’s largest remaining tracts Your flight soars high over through forests of Douglas-Fir, Western Red of unspoiled temperate rain forest, this lush, emerald alpine tarns Cedar, Western Hemlock and Sitka Spruce, protected ecosystem is a virtually untouched surrounded by meadows, past settlements and farmlands, down the wilderness. At two million hectares where waterfalls gush amid glacier-carved valley with snow-capped (27,000 square miles), it encompasses an glacial scree, and where volcanic cones peaks and granite ramparts lining the way. area nearly as large as Scotland! and sawtooth pinnacles cradle rivers of Of course, as with all highways, caution Leaving the outer coast islands, the ice, unseen by human eye except by air, is in order on Highway 20. Abide by the adventure continues through narrow glacial winging above and around the highest posted speeds, gear down—to first, not fjords that enter to mountains in British Columbia. second gear—for the steeper sections of the mouth of the Bella Coola River— www.tweedsmuirtravel.com “The Hill”, and DON’T ride your brakes!!! some 100 km (60 mi) inland. For the www.pacificcoastal.com In winter, spring, and fall (as with any meditative traveler leaning on the rail, this mountain highway in Western Canada) it mountainous coastline of stunning granite GETTING AROUND IN THE is wise to check the road conditions before cliffs and tumbling waterfalls, misty green VALLEY BCVT/Michael Wigle heading out. (www.Drivebc.ca) dark forests, and deep glacier-fed inlet If you don’t have your own vehicle on waters dredges up images of tall ships of your BC adventure, rentals are available. BY SEA: A COASTAL European explorers or the painted paddles Inquire at accommodations at the airport or WONDERLAND of First Nations peoples in their dugout visit www.bellacoolavehiclerentals.com. More serene, but likewise spectacular, is cedar canoes flashing in the sun since the Trips on the Community Bus can be pre- the approach to Bella Coola by sea. dawn of time. Ferry reservations are strongly booked at least 24 hours in advance—or Every summer, between Port Hardy, on recommended. you can simply flag down the driver from northern Vancouver Island, and various points the roadside. Fare for any distance is a flat on the mid-coast, BC Ferries vessels cross the GREAT BEAR CIRCLE ROUTE rate. Dial-a-ride at (250) 799-0079. For open waters of Queen Charlotte Sound into the Experience a Circle Tour by traveling more information, phone during business islands and fjords of the Great Bear Rainforest. clockwise from Vancouver to Vancouver hours or visit www.bctransit.com.

(250) 799-5202 | www.bellacoola.ca | Visit Bella Coola | 5 Where the west is still plenty wild.

#ShareTheCoast

Discover the Great Bear Rainforest.

Sail through pristine glacial fjords with BC Ferries between Port Hardy and Bella Coola into the heart of the Great Bear Rainforest. Marvel at majestic grizzlies as they fish in the Atnarko and Bella Coola Rivers. Or hike to one of many alpine lakes to discover rugged landscapes and spectacular lookouts. Our travel experts can help you plan your perfect getaway, including hotel, ferry and activities.

bcferries.com/vacations 1-888-BC FERRY Ext. 3 Visit us at 1010 Canada Place, Vancouver, BC

BC Reg. 48839. EXPLORE PORT HARDY

HARDY BAY

ive into and explore untouched Port Hardy is truly remarkable. coastal wilderness, small town Plan your adventure — Dculture, and Hardy traditions. On www.visitporthardy.com the northern tip of Vancouver Island is where you will find Port Hardy, a friendly town that sits at the very edge of the coastal wilderness. “Live the Adventure” is Port Hardy’s motto, and many who explore this remote part of the world choose to NORTHERN SEA WOLF spend at least a few fascinating days living BC Ferries’ Northern Sea Wolf provides their adventure here. Located within the direct summer sailings between Port Hardy traditional territory of the Kwakiutl First and Bella Coola from early June through Nation and home to two neighbouring September. The vessel was named in honour First Nations bands, the Quatsino and of a First Nations legend in which the Sea Gwa’sala-‘Nakwaxda’xw, Port Hardy and the Wolf is a manifestation of the Orca and surrounding area is rich in tradition and symbolizes family, loyalty and the protection deep-rooted in culture. Totems and big of those travelling their waters. houses stand tall and weathered throughout BC Ferries, in partnership with the Port Hardy and the neighbouring community First Peoples’ Cultural Council (FPCC), of Fort Rupert, telling of the indigenous commissioned two Indigenous artists to history that began over 8,000 years ago. design artwork to adorn the Northern Sea Whether you come to hike our rugged Wolf: Richard Hunt of the Kwakwaka’wakw and amazing trails, paddle along the rocky Nation in T’sakis (Fort Rupert, B.C.) and shores of neighbouring islands and inlets or PADDLEBOARDING Danika Naccarella of the Nuxalk Nation in catch the salmon of a lifetime—exploring Bella Coola, B.C. (250) 799-5202 | www.bellacoola.ca | Visit Bella Coola | 7 8 | (250) 799-5202 | www.bellacoola.ca | Visit Bella Coola CONNECTING WITH THE PAST: A BRIEF HISTORY

or countless generations, the and loggers. The abundant resources people living in the Bella Coola and developing economy soon attracted Valley have fished its rivers and the fishing and logging corporations

Bella Coola Museum Bella Coola F hewn its trees amid the magnificent which operated on the Central Coast mountains and verdant forests of the for many decades throughout the 20th northwest coast of this continent Century. One origin theory suggests the first Meanwhile, smallpox had arrived of them crossed from Asia on an ice in 1862, and the Nuxalk population, (or land) bridge far to the north and lacking natural immunity, was reduced migrated south along the coast before from thousands to 200, their 45 villages occupying the Bella Coola Valley as the to one at the mouth of the Bella Coola ice receded after the last Ice Age some River. Then the Canadian government 10,000 years ago. Another has them banned the potlatch (the Nuxalk arriving from the South Pacific via rafts governance mechanism) and dispersed bourne on ocean currents. Still another their families with the Residential NORWEGIAN HOMESTEAD EXPERIENCE has them arriving at the time of School policy—eroding the Nuxalk Bella Coola Museum Bella Coola Creation, on the eyelashes of the sun, cultural roots. Today, with the potlatch in animal form, landing on various mountain the same point after following the historic ban and the Residential School policy tops where they took on human form. Grease Trail, descending from the Rainbow revoked, signs of Nuxalk cultural revival Whatever the case, they are related by Mountains to the Valley floor. From there, attest to the resilience of this People. language to peoples of the Lower Fraser and Mackenzie was guided downriver to Pacific As the region’s resource industries Thompson Rivers and not to other coastal waters and out the fjords toward the open declined at the turn of the millennium, First Nations. Their society, now called ocean, terminating the trek at “Mackenzie’s the region’s spectacular natural beauty Nuxalk (pronounced “Noo-halk”), was rich Rock” on the . and wild, pristine wilderness have given in material and cultural wealth and had In 1867, the Hudson’s Bay Company rise to an increasing interest in tourism. strong links covering a vast territory by way established a trading post near the mouth of The stunning landscapes of the Bella Coola of dugout canoe and a network of trails—a the River. At the time, the Valley served as Valley and surrounding area had already major one being the “Grease Trail”, so-called a major transportation route from tidewater been formally recognized with the creation for a prized trade commodity: the grease of inland to the Cariboo gold fields, and many of Tweedsmuir Provincial Park (1938) to the the eulachon (a small smelt-like fish) that lingered on, prospecting, trapping, and east. More recently (2006), the protection swarmed the coastal rivers each spring. trading. Only 16 non-aboriginal people of the surrounding Great Bear Rainforest— The first encounter between the Nuxalk resided in the Valley in 1894 when some accessible by road only along Highway people and Europeans was in 1793 when 200 Norwegian-speaking homesteaders 20—is prompting development of this sea Captain George Vancouver sailed up settled “up Valley” in the area now known as sustainable industry in the region. the fjord to the mouth of the Bella Coola Hagensborg and downriver in “Lower Bella Locally-built road access via Highway 20, River. Then, seven weeks later Scottish Coola.” They were soon followed by a colony up (and down) Bella Coola’s infamous “Hill”, explorer Alexander Mackenzie and his six of Seventh Day Adventists who settled opened in 1953 as Canada’s third route to voyageur companions, with the assistance primarily in the Firvale area. the Pacific, celebrating the pioneer spirit of of aboriginal guides, completed the first The settlers tapped the rich resources of those who live here and the adventurer in recorded land crossing of North America at the area, as farmers, commercial fishermen, all who visit.

(250) 799-5202 | www.bellacoola.ca | Visit Bella Coola | 9 GLIMPSING THE PAST Your marine adventure begins at the Government Wharf where you might cruise across the Inlet to tour the picturesque Tallheo cannery, once a Customs house. Built in the early 1900’s it became a hive of VENTURING activity in the heyday of fish canning before the long-haul packer boat. Further out the inlet, marvel at the FORTH ancient fish traps, petroglyphs and pictographs, indelible signs left on the rocky shores and cliffs by First Nations people who, according to archaeologists, paddled along these fjords more than 10,000 years ago—5,000 years before the Great Pyramid was built in Egypt. TAKING A HOT DIP Relax and soak away your cares in the hot soothing waters of a seaside wilderness hot spring. Natural hot springs, accessible only by air or water, are just a charter away from the Bella Coola Harbour. Or rent or bring your own sea kayaks (but be prepared for an overnighter). Perhaps sight some dolphins, seals or eagles on the way out. The hot springs are sacred places to the Nuxalk people who have enjoyed their healing powers for millennia, so respect them as you might a Gothic cathedral. AERIAL VIEW OVER FOUR-MILE, THE TOWNSITE AND OUT THE FJORD SEEING BIG – FEELING SMALL If you’ve never been humbled by the VENTURING WEST OUT awe that comes with standing under the THE CHANNEL dark, swooping branches of a botanical njoy a maritime experience by taking wonder, here’s your chance: The Big Cedar BCVT/Michael Wigle a marine day tour cruising out from Tree, just a short hike up from the beach Ethe Bella Coola Harbour over the at Larso Bay on , glacial waters of North Bentinck Arm and measures more than 5 metres (18 feet) into a vast network of deep fjords—South in diameter. That’s a whopping 18 metres Bentinck, Labouchere, Burke, Dean—past around (more than 56.5 feet)! This ancient timbered rocky shores and snow-capped giant was a seedling during the late Roman peaks where the solitude is broken over and Empire 1,500 years ago. over again by the many scenic highlights VIEWING THE WILDLIFE that loom into view as you approach. As you cruise along the often misty Keep your camera at the ready! HOME OF THE NUXALK

BCVT/Michael Wigle tidal beaches and estuaries of creeks and

10 | (250) 799-5202 | www.bellacoola.ca | Visit Bella Coola The Bella Coola Valley is Connected, BUT… Despite its remoteness, the Valley is “connected” via satellite, providing television and High-Speed Internet. Cell phone service can be spotty, but you can receive service on the Bella Coola townsite , at the Harbour, the Airport and in Hagensborg. Not all cell phones will work here. You may need to have Telus or Telus compatible service such as Bell.

GRIZZLY GAMES Great Bear Chalet Great

rivers through the heart of the Great Bear Rainforest, keep your eyes peeled. In the HEADS UP! spring, bears emerge from their alpine While Bella Coola’s remote wilderness dens after the long fast of hibernation and setting makes it an attractive tourist

offer prime wildlife viewing. Grizzly bears destination, it also results in challenges to Joseph Gruenthal and black bears, and even the rare white meet the hopes and wishes of our visitors. Most businesses have debit/credit card connections, During the busy summer season—and kermode (or “spirit bear” in First Nations but many home businesses take cheques or cash only. certainly during the height of the bear- lore) descend to the lowlands and beaches Cash is available at three ATM’s: Thunderbird Grocery on for the first tender grass and shoots growing viewing season—visitors are wise to reserve accommodations in advance. the Townsite, Hagensborg Mercantile, and the Williams close to the tide line. In late summer and Likewise for activities such as marine tours. Lake and District Credit Union, where an outdoor ATM is fall, the bears gorge themselves on the accessible 24/7. salmon returning to spawn in the coastal Pay telephones are few—with none between creeks and rivers. The Great Bear Rainforest teems with Hagensborg and Anahim Lake—130 km (85 mi) east In the early morning, at first light, wolves wildlife including bald eagles, seals, sea lions, on Highway 20. Payphones accessible 24/7 are located often appear along the creek mouths and and otters. At times, dolphins, humpback at the Government Wharf, at the Bella Coola General estuaries. Early in the evening, from your whales and killer whales (orcas or “blackfish” Hospital on the Townsite, at the airport, in Hagensborg offshore anchorage, you may hear their eerie in First Nations parlance) break the water and at the Bailey Bridge Campsite. howls drifting out over the calm waters. with their breaching—a sight to behold!

(250) 799-5202 | www.bellacoola.ca | Visit Bella Coola | 11 12 | (250) 799-5202 | www.bellacoola.ca | Visit Bella Coola MACKENZIE’S ROCK Chris Carlson

CONNECTING ADVENTURES AT MACKENZIE’S ROCK Alexander Mackenzie from Canada by land 22nd July 1793: So reads the vermilion inscription daubed on a rock standing on the shore at the mouth of HUGE SALMON Elcho Harbour in the Dean Channel. You connect your Central Coast adventure with Mackenzie’s at this rock, the western HOOKING THE BIG ONES! terminus of his daunting adventure—the he Bella Coola Harbour is a great first recorded trek across the North American departure point for saltwater anglers MARINE CHARTERS AND TOURS continent some 12 years before the more T heading out to enjoy the bounty of At the Government Wharf in the Bella Coola famous but much longer a journey by marine life while taking in the pristine Harbour, 2 km (1.2 mi) west of the Bella Coola American explorers Lewis and Clark. scenery of the Central Coast. Cruise along Townsite, ocean-going charter boats with seasoned skippers and guides are available for a CONNECTING AGAIN AT the cliffs rising skyward from glacial fjords as deep as 600 metres (2,000 feet). Cast day tour or an extended nautical journey to the CASCADE INLET area of your choice. You make another historic connection with your eyes up to the rugged snow-capped Tour highlights can include: the Bella Coola the 1793 tall-ship voyage of Captain George peaks as you angle for Chinook and Coho estuary, historic cannery sites, wildlife/marine Vancouver, who named this fjord for the salmon. Drop your line to the bottom for huge life viewing, hot springs, the Big Cedar Tree or myriad waterfalls cascading down the glacier- Mackenzie’s Rock. carved granite walls. Be sure to bring your halibut, or bring up lunker ling cod and red The Bella Coola Harbour Authority provides binoculars to get a close-up look at families snappers from the deep rocky shelves. Set mooring floats, fuel, boat launching, parking, of the majestic white mountain goats clinging your traps for jumbo white spot prawns from washrooms and laundry facilities for boaters. to the rocky crevices and narrow ledges of the the deep and for Dungeness crabs near the sheer cliffs plunging into the inlet. mouths of the creeks. LICENCES AND REGULATIONS Saltwater and freshwater fishing licenses CLAYTON FALS PARK can be obtained—along with government regulations—in Bella Coola Valley establishments selling fishing tackle. BCVT/Michael Wigle Information on saltwater fishing specifically is available at the office of Fisheries and Oceans Canada on Highway 20 at the Bella Coola Townsite. Phone (250) 799-5345.

(250) 799-5202 | www.bellacoola.ca | Visit Bella Coola | 13 EXPERIENCE THE VALLEY

OUR COMMUNITIES The Bella Coola Valley is 80 km (50 mi) long with a population of approximately BCVT/Michael Wigle 2000. From west to east the Valley consists of several small communities: The Bella Coola Townsite is located at the head of North Bentinck Arm on the Bella Coola River. The commercial centre of the Valley, the townsite offers accommodation, restaurants, groceries, fuel, auto repairs, banking and other retail services. The region’s Royal Canadian Mounted Police (RCMP) detachment is located here along with a library, museum, hospital, clinic, pharmacy, and post office. Marine services are nearby at the Government Wharf. Part of the Townsite is a Nuxalk village. Drop by Bella Coola Valley Tourism’s Visitor Information Booth during the summer months for detailed information on EAST UP VALLEY accommodation, attractions, local events, BCVT/Michael Wigle and hiking and wildlife bulletins. Phone Administration and a unique school. At pole outside the entry was carved by a (250) 799-5202 or visit www.bellacoola.ca. this school—“Acwsalcta” (in the Nuxalk teacher and students in 2002—the first Four-Mile Subdivision (Snxllh or language, ‘a place of learning’)—instruction totem pole erected in 38 years; the taller “Sunny Village”), four miles from the in the is keeping it and one, by a father-son pair of carvers, was Government Wharf, is a second Nuxalk the culture alive by integrating them into raised in 2007 to commemorate the 20th residential area and the home of the Nuxalk the regular curriculum. The shorter totem anniversary of this special school. There are Nuxalk art galleries and other surprises to be discovered in this neighbourhood. (See p. 20.) Ask at the Nuxalk Administration office or visit nuxalknation.com. Hagensborg, 16 km (10 mi) east “up Valley”, is the other commercial centre with groceries, gifts, accommodations, camping, fuel, auto repairs and post office. On Friday nights, the Royal Canadian Legion is open for pub service. In summer, the outdoor Centennial Swimming Pool next door is open for swimming as well as lessons and MT NUSATSUM VIEWED FROM HAGENSBORG specialty classes. Phone (250) 982-2488. BCVT/Michael Wigle

14 | (250) 799-5202 | www.bellacoola.ca | Visit Bella Coola Bella Coola Harbour and Government Wharf, Fuel: Available on the Townsite, at Four-Mile and in Hagensborg, but nowhere 24/7. Fuel is not but the gravel road continuing west from available between Hagensborg and Anahim Lake. there for 2.5 km (1.6 mi) provides access to Shopping: A number of businesses are open on Sunday. Some establishments close on Mondays Clayton Falls. (See Trail Guide, p. 9.) A left and some may close for lunch breaks. turn at that point takes the adventurer 23 km (14 mi) into the alpine with spectacular Sani-Stations: Located at Tweedsmuir Provincial Park Headquarters (near the foot of “The Hill”), views of the nearby fjords and meadow-lined and at several of the private campgrounds in the Valley. lakes (See Trail Guide, p. 7, 8.) THE BELLA COOLA HARBOUR Back at the harbour, stroll around the Nearby is the picturesque and historic Highway 20 as your guide. Explorers, day- Government Wharf among the commercial Augsburg Church, which celebrated 100 trippers, anglers, and nature enthusiasts fishing boats and pleasure craft bobbing at years in 2004. will find plenty beckoning to be discovered their moorings. Across the channel from the Firvale, located midway up the valley, along the byways and trails, shorelines and Harbour, historic Tallheo Cannery, built in was first settled by Seventh Day Adventists river banks. 1917 and operated by the Canadian Fish Co. in the early 20th Century. Only a few houses WEST BEYOND THE HARBOUR until 1947, still stands as a reminder of a and farms of this once-thriving community The western end of Highway 20 is the time when commercial fishing was a mainstay remain, scattered along the scenic highway. Stuie, a pocket-sized gem in the south end of Tweedsmuir Provincial Park, was BELLA COOLA HARBOUR the original locale of the well-known Stuie Lodge, constructed in 1931 and destroyed by fire in 1950. This is also traditional territory of First Nations peoples who for thousands of years have sustained themselves on the abundance provided by the Atnarko River and surrounding forest. VALLEY ADVENTURES From sightseeing to outdoor adventure, embark on a scenic Valley journey using BCVT/Michael Wigle

(250) 799-5202 | www.bellacoola.ca | Visit Bella Coola | 15 Churches in the Bella where plaques honour Canada’s pioneers Coola Valley and Alexander Mackenzie’s trans-continental Bella Coola Pentecostal Assembly trek. Listen here for the rush of water cascading over the rainforest cliffs and step Bella Coola Seventh-Day Adventist into the woods to find “Hidden Falls”. Church THE BELLA COOLA TOWNSITE The Church of Jesus Christ – • Enjoy the shops, restaurants, and Latter-Day Saints accommodations. Holy Name of Mary Catholic Church • Visit the Museum and pick up the brochure Kingdom Hall of Jehovah’s Witnesses for the self-guided historic walking tour which details the historical landmarks Torah Learning Centre around the village including the location United Church of Canada of the Hudson Bay manager’s home, the Augsburg, Hagensborg House of Numst’ with its totem pole entry, BELLA COOLA MUSEUM Emmanuel, Bella Coola and the tiny cabin that served as Bella BCVT/Michael Wigle Coola’s first jail. of the coastal economy. This monument to Tweedsmuir Travel, 618 Cliff Street, (250) • Be sure to take in the eulachon welcome progress, abandoned after efficient long-haul 799-5638. Reserve ahead of time to ensure a post on River Road and the totem poles packer boats began transporting fish south space on the ferry. across from the Co-Op and at Healthy for processing, is one of the last canneries EAST FROM THE HARBOUR Beginnings. left standing on Canada’s West Coast. Walk or cycle the popular cliff-side route • Mail your postcards from the Bella Coola The harbour is the arrival and departure between the harbour and the Bella Coola Post Office and ask for the unique Nuxalk- point for the ferry service of the Great Bear Townsite. Scan the estuary, locally known as designed cancellation stamp. Circle Tour between Bella Coola & Port the Tide-Flats, a rich eco-system and home Hardy on Vancouver Island. Depending on to waterfowl, migrating birds, and bears. A FROM THE TOWNSITE TO schedules & the time of year, the Great Bear number of old roads and trails weave in and HAGENSBORG (16 KM/10 MI) Circle Tour May be a direct daytime sailing or out of the forest to the junction where river • For a truly mystical experience, engage may include landings at Ocean Falls, Denny meets sea. Entry points vary. This is a tidal a Nuxalk guide and visit the ancient Island, and McLaughlin Bay (Bella Bella). zone, so beware of incoming water to avoid petroglyphs along Thorsen Creek Ferry passage can be booked at the BC getting wet or stranded. (“Squmalh” to the Nuxalk). See p. 21. Ferries agent on the Bella Coola townsite: Stop at the commemorative roadside rock • In summer, visit the Farmers’ Market on

16 | (250) 799-5202 | www.bellacoola.ca | Visit Bella Coola and the river is accessible. Here at the Mt. Saugstad (named for the Norwegian NUXALK NATION, Rodeo Grounds you can catch cowboys and pioneer leader, Reverend Christian BELLA COOLA cowgirls in action each July long weekend. Saugstad). Rising to 2,905 metres (9,532 • When heading up valley, relax at the feet), it is the highest Coast Mountain roadside-pullover stop of interest. Here, peak visible from the Valley floor. travellers can get a sense of the valley HAGENSBORG with a locations map or enjoy a scenic Cleared by hand from the old growth picnic lunch. Free WIFI is provided by rainforest, the farms and fields of this Central Coast Communications Society. Directly south of the pullout is a perfect example of a glacial “hanging valley”, meaning this spot was under ice 2,000 meters thick. • Snootli Creek Hatchery – Take a guided

Destination BC/Callum Snape Destination BC/Callum tour of this federal salmon hatchery, Sunday mornings at the Fall Fair Grounds. hatching and rearing over ten million • During July & August, be sure to stop by salmon fry each year for release into rivers the very popular “Night Market” located up and down the Central Coast. Guided across from the Co-Op at the Bella Coola tours are provided depending on the NORWEGIAN HERITAGE HOUSE townsite every Wednesday evening for number of staff available. Please call ahead musical entertainment & art, local produce for additional tour information and tours Laurie Sissons & more. for large groups. Phone (250) 982-2214. settlement nurtured Norwegian-speaking • For a truly humbling experience, walk • From July to September, stop at the many colonists who settled the Valley between among the giant trees enclosing the trails bridges along the valley to wonder over 1894 and 1910. in Snootli Creek Regional Park. (See Trail the migrations of spawning salmon in the • Share the pioneer experience in a visit Guide, p. 8.) Valley creeks and rivers. Please park in to the Norwegian Heritage House, or the • Take a short side trip into Walker Island a safe, respectful manner and beware of historic Augsburg Church, once a place of Regional Park, a popular park with locals. bears! worship for the Lutheran pioneers. This Here are playing fields, picnic sites, • At Nookliklonnic Creek just west of visit is not complete without a quiet walk barbecue pit, and a kiddies’ playground. Hagensborg, pull off at the bridge for a through the Hagensborg Cemetery a short Majestic old-growth cedars arch overhead, spectacular view of glacier-shouldered drive west down Highway 20 and south on

(250) 799-5202 | www.bellacoola.ca | Visit Bella Coola | 17 Sawmill Road (site of one of the Valley’s honour the family on whose traditional picnic, camp, swim, or just relax and early sawmills.) territory it stands. watch the river flow past. Bear in mind • At the east end of the terminal building at • Further east on Highway 20 near Firvale, that you are in grizzly bear habitat, the Airport, check out the the BIG cedar watch for mountain goats that often especially in late summer and early fall tree 50 metres along a forest trail. Book a descend from the cliffs at Assanany Creek during the big salmon runs. This is one heli-hiking trip into the alpine or take it and hang out along the roadway. Here, a of the most popular spots to fish in the easy by booking a “flightseeing” tour of short walk up the creek leads to the base entire Valley. the area’s mountains, glaciers and fjords of Assanany Creek Falls. • At Stuie, turn off the pavement onto by helicopter. • Cool off with a refreshing swim at the TWEEDSMUIR PARK Centennial Pool in Hagensborg. • Drop by the Valley Gallery featuring local art, operated by the Bella Coola Valley Arts Council. FROM HAGENSBORG TO “THE HILL” • From Highway 20 two km (1.2 mi.) east of Hagensborg, a left turn onto Saloompt Road leads to “The Bailey Bridge”, one of the only two bridges across the Bella Coola River. In “The Sunny Saloompt” (so called because much of the area escapes the winter mountain shadow that covers a lot of the Valley), take in the Saloompt Forest Trails. Here, old-growth cedars, spruce, hemlock, and Douglas-fir, seedlings during the Crusades, humble the ENTERING TWEEDSMUIR PARK the old Highway 20 and drive through human visitor. (See Trail Guide, p. 16.) • At the Park entrance, at Burnt Bridge Douglas-Fir parkland to the “Smokehouse”, • While in the Saloompt (“Salmt” in Nuxalk, Creek, explore the historic area where a lean-to shelter on the north side where meaning “a good place to live”), venture Alexander Mackenzie reached the Valley First Nations people from the Chilcotin on to Lost Lake (See Trail Guide p.17.) floor after his trek across the continent may be smoking fish netted in the river • Further up the logging road to the left is and the Coast Mountains. Here he was so pool below—as they have done since time the rifle range operated by the local Rod hospitably hosted by a large Nuxalk village immemorial. and Gun Club. that he dubbed it “Friendly Village.” See • At the Belarko Wildlife Viewing station, • Returning to Highway 20, 3.3 km (2 mi) Trail Guide, p.25 for information about walk out on the platform during the late east of the Saloompt turnoff, is the West this opportunity to experience walking in summer or early fall for a safe vantage Nusatsum Forest Road which gives access the footsteps of this great adventurer— point to view grizzly bears snagging fresh to the picturesque Odegaard Falls and to and for a stunning view down the Valley! salmon and chowing down. virtually unlimited alpine terrain. • At McCall Flats, take the Talchako Forest • Just beyond the Wildlife Viewing station (See Trail Guide, p. 18-22.) Service Road. Notice Horsetail Falls and boat launch, notice the moss-roofed • Further east on Highway 20, just across plummeting down the west-facing cliff. (privately owned) log cabin where Edward the Bella Coola River bridge, check out the Mountain goats may be seen on the bluffs. Norton filled in a postcard (post-marked monumental Nuxalk memorial arch on the Relax or picnic on a sandy riverside beach. “Bella Coola”) while on the lam in left and the totem pole a short distance Hike or bike the trails and roads. the final scene of the 2008 Hollywood further on the right raised in 2014 to • At Fisheries Pool or Atnarko Campground, blockbuster “The Incredible Hulk.”

18 | 1-250-799-5202 | www.bellacoola.ca | Visit Bella Coola • At Big Rock and Kettle Pond 3 of the Trail Guide for Bear and have a picnic after a short walk Cougar Awareness. to see this unique geological YOUR VALLEY TOUR ENDS feature. (See Trail Guide, p.26.) The pavement ends. • At Mosher Creek, stop and Highway 20, your trusty guide imagine the force of water from the tidewater 80 km (50 that took out bridge access mi) downriver to the west, and splintered the giant trees veers sharply left and begins standing as reminders of the one- the ascent up Bella Coola’s day rainfall that isolated Bella infamous “Hill.” In short order, Coola from the rest of the world the stunning climb provides in September, 2010. MT. STUPENDOUS IN AUTUMN some of the steepest scenery BCVT/Michael Wigle • At the Atnarko Tote Road, anywhere and a sheer sense of mountain bike, hike or drive this historic waterfalls). This road and part of the trail accomplishment. A drive of only 25 minutes trail, which leaves Highway 20 at the also leads to the former homestead of at the posted speed limit winds around 11 foot of “The Hill.” It was once part of the legendary Ralph Edwards of Lonesome switchbacks with short grades up to 18%, the main route entering and leaving the Lake, “The keeper of the swans.” The topping out at 5,000 feet at Heckman Pass. valley. The 11 km (7 mi) of rough 4X4 road homestead burned to the ground in the Here a viewpoint provides a last look down was also part of the old telegraph line Tweedsmuir Fire of 2004. Travelling the through the Coast Mountains toward the and now ends at the trailhead for Hunlen road and trail in daylight is recommended Great Bear Rainforest where the Bella Coola Falls (among North America’s highest to minimize wildlife encounters. See page River scours its deep course down to the sea.

(250) 799-5202 | www.bellacoola.ca | Visit Bella Coola | 19 20 | (250) 799-5202 | www.bellacoola.ca | Visit Bella Coola EXPERIENCE THE WILD SIDE

ECO-TOUR DRIFTS floating idly along the log-strewn shore CYCLING The Bella Coola and Atnarko Rivers offer or a grizzly crashing through the current, With 80 km (50 mi) of mostly downhill the opportunity to drift placidly downstream launching itself at a salmon. pavement from “The Hill” to the Government BCVT/Michael Wigle through the heart of a rich rainforest on Three-hour or full-day tours are available Wharf, avid cyclists will not want to leave the valley floor with snowcapped mountains with experienced and friendly guides that their wheels behind. cradling glaciers towering above. cater to both individuals and groups. Many MOUNTAIN BIKING, ATVING AND tours offer snacks or bagged lunches for DIRT BIKING longer trips. During your trip, be sure to Explore developed trails and logging roads keep your guide busy with questions. They from one end of the Valley to the other. Try are eager to share stories and provide a out our newest bike loop trail at Schoolhouse better understanding of your rainforest Falls. See Trail Guide for details. surroundings. MOTORCYCLING Many kilometers of wilderness roads OTHER ADVENTURES climb up the side valleys onto the mountain EAGLE PAIR HIKING, MOUNTAINEERING, AND slopes, and Highway 20 is certainly a unique

BCVT/Michael Wigle ROCK CLIMBING country cruise. Major trails are described in the Trail Drifters might see a bald eagle diving GEOCACHING Guide. For more extreme adventurers, the for a salmon targeted from high above, or There are many geocaches in the Bella Coola Valley has an abundance of one on a river bar already tearing at its Valley and along Highway 20. Go to www. granite for rock climbing, and there are newly snagged feast. They might catch the geocaching.com for coordinates. many classic routes in the Coast Mountains thrilling experience of seeing a river otter for mountaineering and ski-mountaineering.

HELI-HIKING NEAR APE MOUNTAIN BCVT/Michael Wigle

(250) 799-5202 | www.bellacoola.ca | Visit Bella Coola | 21 HIKING BCVT/Michael Wigle DOWNHILL SKIING, CROSS- RAFTING THE BELLA COOLA RIVER COUNTRY SKIING & SNOWSHOEING

BCVT/Michael Wigle The local ski club operates a tow lift on weekends in the East Branch Creek area near BOATING, CANOEING, KAYAKING, inlet from Clayton Falls Creek just west of the top of “The Hill.” In addition, there are RAFTING the Bella Coola Townsite. more than 20 km (12 mi) of track set Nordic Bella Coola Valley rivers and waterways HELI-SKIING ski trails at East Branch. provide virtually endless opportunities, but Unbelievable depths of stable powder Go to www.tweedsmuirskiclub.com for adventurers must always be “bear aware” with some of the greatest verticals in North information. and mindful of the wilderness conditions. America combine to create the perfect heli- The estuary and somewhat sheltered fjords skiing experience. Operations are based at offer hundreds of kilometers of shoreline to the Airport just west of Hagensborg. explore, and the rivers provide hours and SNOWMOBILING days of paddling and rowing opportunities. The East Branch Creek area near the top If you don’t have your own, check with of “The Hill” in Tweedsmuir Provincial Park the Visitor Information Booth for rental is renowned for its excellent snowmobile opportunities. terrain and snow conditions. The upper KITE BOARDING & SAILBOARDING Clayton Falls Creek area (accessible west of On a nice summer day, check out the the Bella Coola Harbour) is also popular. RIVER DRIFT BCVT/Michael Wigle

22 | 1-250-799-5202 | www.bellacoola.ca | Visit Bella Coola RIVER DRIFTERS GETTING A VIEW BCVT/Michael Wigle BEAR VIEWING and grizzlies inhabit the region. For best Watching a bear foraging is an practices while bear viewing, see p.4 in the unforgettable experience! Adventurers Trail Guide. driving along Highway 20 into the heart of TOURS the Great Bear Rainforest any time from late • Tours are offered by knowledgeable, spring to late fall may chance upon a sow experienced and accredited bear viewing and her cubs grazing on the long grasses guides. Among them are those who drift along the road side. However, the prime their guests in shallow-keel boats quietly bear-viewing opportunities are in the late down the Atnarko and Bella Coola Rivers, spring, and then again in late summer and looking for bears and eagles feeding on fall when the salmon are running in the GRIZZLY FISHING spawning salmon.

Great Bear Chalet Great rivers. Large populations of both black bears

(250) 799-5202 | www.bellacoola.ca | Visit Bella Coola | 23 FLY CASTING BCVT/Michael Wigle

EXPERIENCE WORLD- Also highly popular with anglers is the BEAR SAFETY FOR ANGLERS CLASS FISHING pursuit of feisty Rainbow, Dolly Varden, and Always remember you’re in bear country. The Bella Coola Valley is renowned the Cutthroat trout. Don’t make it easy for bears to find food, world over for its fresh-water fishing. Each Steelhead, an ocean-going rainbow trout, food containers, backpacks, garbage, fish, year, all five Pacific salmon species return also run in the Bella Coola River system, or fish waste. Bear can smell from miles to the Bella Coola River to spawn after but fishing for them is prohibited and away. As soon as a fish catch is caught, maturing at sea: Sockeye, Coho, Chum, those caught accidentally must be carefully immediately kill it and bleed it in the water. Pink—and the prize of them all, the mighty released. Store on ice in a bear-proof container. If Chinook salmon (variously called Spring, As fishing is highly regulated and the using a stringer, keep it in the water near King or Tyee) which often exceed 25 pounds penalties for violations severe, anglers are you. Never leave fish exposed on the bank. (11 kg) and have been known to weigh advised to consult the fresh-water fishing Clean fish at a designated fish cleaning more than 50 pounds (22 kg)! Year after regulations available locally wherever fishing station. Never leave fish waste in garbage year, anglers also return to the river and its licenses are sold. cans; use bear resistant containers or tributaries, often moving up the river with Anglers unfamiliar with the area may dumpsters. If you’re camping, keep a clean the runs to the Atnarko River, the Bella wish to engage a guide to take them on a camp. Always keep food and food containers Coola River’s major accessible tributary. guided river drift. secure in your vehicle and never in your tent.

24 | (250) 799-5202 | www.bellacoola.ca | Visit Bella Coola p: Mark Gribbon p: Mark

Where Wilderness Meets Luxury Nestled in the Great Bear Rainforest amongst the towering peaks of the Coast Range, Tweedsmuir Park Lodge is situated on private property within British Columbia’s largest provincial park. Escape into the wilderness and join us to:

› Soar above the Great Bear Rainforest on a Heli-Sightseeing Flight › Trek deep into the Coast Range on a Heli-Hike › Climb our brand new Via Ferrata › Go for a ride on an Icelandic horse › Private & small group Grizzly Bear Viewing

+1 604 905 4994 www.tweedsmuirparklodge.com GEOLOGY, ECOLOGY AND WILDLIFE

he Bella Coola Valley has been drag fish carcasses up into the Riparian inhabited by Nuxalk ancestors for area where the decomposing fish remains

Great Bear Chalet Great T more than 8000 years as attested fertilize the forest and support the richness by the petroglyphs at Thorsen Creek and abundance of the valley ecosystems. Conservancy dating back between 6000 Steelhead, rainbow, cutthroat trout and and 8000 years. Bella Coola Valley has a Dolly Varden char also inhabit the rivers and very rich history whether it is culturally, creeks; making this an angler’s delight! River ecologically or geologically. otters and mink forage here as well and you The geology and ecology of the Bella may see the iconic Canadian beaver. Coola valley is complex and is the crossroads Some other wildlife you may encounter of many transitioning ecosystems. It is while exploring the valley include the ecological break between north and ungulates, such as goat, mule and white tail south in British Columbia and uniquely deer, as they move from valley bottom to changes from marine to dry about 1200 meters seasonally, while moose ecosystems in less than 100 kilometers, browse the valley bottom and mountain from sea level to over 1500 metres, east goat forage at higher elevations on the to west (most mountain ranges in North cliffs and rocky ledges. Large predators and South America run north to south) The such as wolves and mountain lions follow quick changes in ecosystems provide a wide the ungulates while omnivores such as variety of overlapping habitats for a great GLACIAL MOUNTAINS Grizzly and Black bear forage from valley many species making the area rich, unique bottom to alpine. A great many song birds, and diversified. Geological Society research of the area birds of prey, waterfowl such as Trumpeter Driving east along highway 20 and indicates the possibility of the Atnarko River Swans, and more utilize the valley’s various looking north one can see very old and being the actual edge of the continent, ecosystems in their migrations and some are brittle granites identifiable by talus slopes. which the North are pushing year-round residents. Further east, these hot and dry northern into (and rising). This geological activity Smaller wildlife such rabbits, squirrels slopes are the home of Interior Douglas makes for a substantial change in ecosystems and chipmunks, and rodents like moles, Fir (which do not like wet feet), stands of throughout the Bella Coola Valley. voles and mice inhabit the forest and indigenous pine and cedar at the bottom Most of the valley roads follow rivers riparian and wetland areas across the of the slope. It is an unique and rare and creeks. This is the Riparian Zone, or elevations while fox, and fisher, martin hunt ecosystem, particularly on the east side of the interface between water and land. All them through the seasons. At dusk, while the Coast Mountains and this far north. The five species of Pacific salmon return to the looking at openings in the forest canopy Bella Coola and the Dean valleys are as far rivers and creeks of the valley to spawn at you can see bats flying about and foraging north as Douglas fir grows in the Province various times through the summer, moving on bugs. Amphibians such as frogs, toads, of BC. high into the Upper Atnarko and Talchako newts and salamanders inhabit the forest, Looking south and east from Bella Coola, rivers, after which they die. Salmon are wetlands and streams. Along the areas like one can see a great difference in both the a keystone species, feeding a staggering the Tote road you may see reptiles such as vegetation and glaciated mountains of number of other plants and animals while the rare northern alligator lizard and various the North Pacific Ranges. These mountains they are alive and after they have spawned. coloured garter snakes or possibly the are still rising after glaciation. Canadian Bears, eagles and many other species elusive and very rare rubber boa.

26 | (250) 799-5202 | www.bellacoola.ca | Visit Bella Coola ARTS AND CULTURE

ARTS & CRAFTS a group of Nuxalk women weaving cedar bark NUXALK RADIO Besides at special events such as the into roses or lidded containers. While in the valley, listen to Nuxalk Radio annual Arts and Crafts Fair, the works of Start at the Nuxalk administration office broadcasting on 91.1 FM. Nuxalk Radio is artisans can be found in retail stores and at Four-Mile. By engaging a Nuxalk guide, a non-commercial community radio station galleries and small home workshops and you can ensure you will see more than meets from the Nuxalk village of Q’umk’uts’ (Bella display rooms up and down the Valley. the eye and add significantly to this cross- Coola) and worldwide online. Unique works may include a traditional cultural experience. THE PETROGLYPHS quilt or an “art” quilt (to be displayed on At Four-Mile, don’t miss a visit to An absolute MUST cultural experience the wall), hand-crafted wooden furnishings, Acwsalcta School, a work of art in itself. for Valley visitors is the short hike to the painted canvases, or fused glass jewelry. You can’t miss the two magnificent totem petroglyphs at Thorsen Creek. Both out of NUXALK ART poles outside, and the school lobby due respect for the Nuxalk people, and to While Nuxalk art, largely carved in cedar or serves as a showcase of Nuxalk art and enrich the experience, visitors are strongly silver, is available in retail outlets, it is also artifacts. Up Valley, don’t miss the carved urged to engage a Nuxalk guide whose hidden away in the home-based workshops memorial monument 16 km (10 mi) east of mission is both to protect the site and to of the artists. By asking around, you can Hagensborg (crossing the Bella Coola River), share Nuxalk culture through authentic create a chance to see a carver chiseling a and a few meters further, on the right side, chants and legends. Tours through Copper cedar block into a mask or memorial pole or a newly raised totem pole. Sun Journeys. (see ad on Trails p.8).

(250) 799-5202 | www.bellacoola.ca | Visit Bella Coola | 27 with breakfast and last well into the night, to the early explorers, to the coming of the PETROGLYPHS sometimes for days. pioneers, and the building of the ‘Freedom A potlatch is not staged for spectators: It Road’. The museum is housed in a former is a genuine practice that reinforces social schoolhouse and surveyor’s cabin—a heritage structure, affirms ancestral territory, and log building built in 1892. On display are maintains governance. Visiting participants items brought by Norwegian settlers and are often welcome to drop in and may be photographs that depict the days of the asked to bring their own plates, cups, and Hudson’s Bay Company trading post. cutlery—nothing more. Check the local Phone: Museum (250) 799-5767, Archives bulletin boards and newspaper (or drop by (250) 982-2130. www.bellacoolamuseum.ca. the Nuxalk Administration office at Four- NORWEGIAN HERITAGE HOUSE BCVT/Michael Wigle Mile) to learn if a potlatch will occur during For a glimpse into the lifestyle of the Here, you will discover, nestled in the your Bella Coola adventure. Visit www. early Norwegian-speaking settlers, visit this lush rainforest moss and ferns of a canopy nuxalknation.ca. site in Hagensborg. The hewn-log house forest, rock carvings believed to be at least BELLA COOLA MUSEUM was moved to its present location from its 3,500 years old. These marvels are firmly The Bella Coola Museum, located on the original homestead site 3 km (1.8 mi) up rooted in today’s Nuxalk culture like the Bella Coola Townsite, reflects the varied the Valley. A stop of interest sign, here, over-arching hemlock and cedar trees in this history of the Valley from the First Peoples, describes the early Norwegian settlement. hallowed place where winter dances were performed by countless generations. Here, Nuxalk chiefs taught their successors in a MUSEUM landscape that evokes a sacred, cathedral- like awe—a landscape viewed by many as the spiritual heart of the Bella Coola Valley. POTLATCH Nuxalk Nation families often invite the entire Valley as well as “outsiders” to share in this age-old custom of formal dedications, feasting, singing, and dancing (with masks, in traditional attire). These events can begin BCVT/Michael Wigle

28 | (250) 799-5202 | www.bellacoola.ca | Visit Bella Coola (250) 799-5202 | www.bellacoola.ca | Visit Bella Coola | 29

PHONE / TOLL FREE ACCOMMODATION NUMBER Internet Kitchen Dining Room Lounge/Pub Cabins/ Cottages Smoking Units Pets Meeting Room Laundry Car Rental B’fast available Barney’s Lakeside Resort ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ (250) 481-1100 Bailey Bridge Campsite & Cabins ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ (250) 982-2342 Bella Cabins ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ (250) 957-8019 Bella Coola Eagle Lodge & C’grd ∆ ∆ ∆ (250) 799-5587 Bella Coola Grizzly Tours Resort ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ 1-888-982-0098 Bella Coola Motel ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ (250) 799-5323 / 1-604-202-2275 Bella Coola Mountain Lodge ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ 1-866-982-2298 Bella Coola Valley Inn ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ 1-888-799-5316 Bella Vista Guest Cabin ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ (250) 982-0019 Eagle’s Nest B&B, Owikeno (Rivers Inlet) ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ (250) 949-8492 Eagle’s Nest Resort, Anahim (Chilcotin) ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ (250) 742-3707 / 1-800-742-9055 The Float House Inn ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ (250) 982-2591 Great Bear Chalet ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ 1-604- 629-9871 Historic Chilcotin Lodge, East Chilcotin ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ (250) 659-5646 Homathko River Inn, Tatlyoko (Chilcotin) ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ (250) 476-1131 John’s Perch Cabin & Loft ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ (250) 957-8448 Kinikinik, Redstone (Chilcotin) ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ (250) 394-6000 Nusatsum River Guest House ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ (250) 982-2348 Rainforest Accommodations ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ (250) 982-2595 Retreat Wilderness Inn ∆ ∆ ∆ (250) 742-3332 / 1-888-646-7655 Rip Rap Campsite ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ (250) 982-2752 Suntree Guest Cottages ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ 1-877-982-2424 Tallheo Cannery Guest House ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ 1-604-992-1424 Tweedsmuir Park Lodge ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ 1-877-982-2407 Whiskey Cove B&B ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ (250) 957-4234 Woodlands Fish’n Resort, Puntzi (Chilcotin) ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ (250) 800-0400 For a Directory of Advertisers, please see Trail Guide, pp. 22 and 23 pp. Guide, Trail a Directory please see For of Advertisers, BCVT/Michael Wigle

(250) 799-5202 | www.bellacoola.ca | Visit Bella Coola | 31 To Prince Rupert Mackenzie’s Rock Klemtu Anahim Lake OceanFalls Bella The Hill Coola 20 Hagensborg

THUNDER MTN Bella Bella Denny Island Eucott Bay 2681m (McLoughlin Bay) (Shearwater) TWEEDSMUIR Hot Springs PROVINCIAL PARK

Namu Central Coast BC Ferries Routes BRITISH COLUMBIA, CANADA HAKAI RECREATION Glacier AREA Lk

Smith SALOOMPT PK Lk Noosgulch Necleetsconnay 1871m Forest

To Port Hardy BCVT/Michael Wigle River Saloompt Rd Rd Lost Lake MT POOTLASS Saloompt Trail Cacoohtin 2207m Forest Trail Forest Rd FOUR MILE MTN NUSATSUM Tallheo 1766m MTN Bella Coola 2574m Cannery Visitor Walker River Info Booth Ferry Island Medby Nooseseck Terminal Park Schoolhouse Rock River Falls Trail Trail Hagensborg North 20 Hatchery Bentinck Arm Clayton Bella Cacoohtin Falls Coola Nusatsum Cr Park Four- Snooka Creek Forest Rd Mile Thorsen Trail Nusatsum Clayton Cr NOOHALK River Falls Cr Snooka MTN Cr Nooklikonnik M. Gurr Tatsquan Cr Lake South Cr Snootli Bentinck MT FOUGNER Cr Arm 1847m Blue Jay Lake

Big Cedar MT SAUGSTAD Trail Smitley 2908m 5km difficult River Bensin's Is

Tallheo Purgatory Pk. Hot Springs & Lookout Big Cedar Tree DESIRE MTN

Highway Scale: 10km Unpaved road Trail MT MACKENZIE 2146m

Crystal Lake Trail THUNDER MTN 2681m Mackenzie Heritage Trail

Octopus Lake Trail To Rainbow Williams Lake Range Trail Capoose Heckman Pass Summer Rainbow Trail Range Burnt Bridge Cr Firvale Valley Loop Tweedsmuir Trail Trail MT WALKER 20 2148m

Cacoohtin Forest Rd “The Hill” Lookout McCall Flats Tote Recreation Site 20 Rd Talchako Atnarko Campground DEFIANCE TABLE MTN Forest Rd 2677m Big MTN Rock Sugar Camp Ck 2669m MT Atnarko R STUPENDOUS Stuie 2679m Kettle Cacoohtin Fisheries Pond Cr Pool Belarko Trail TWEEDSMUIR Campground Noomst Hotnarko R Cr PROVINCIAL Tsini-Tsini Cr PARK Hunlen Falls Trail MELIKAN MATTERHORN MTN PK MT MARVIN MOUNT 2167m Stillwater NYLAND Lk CARIBOU MTN ARJUNA 2345m MTN Nordschow Cr MT CORBOULD Ptarmigan Lake Trail Odegaard Falls Talchako R Trail Odegaard Hunlen Falls Panorama Falls Lakes Trail

Gyllenspetz Cr Turner Lk Hammer Lake Lonesome Trail GLACIER Lk MTN 14km to Ape Lake BOREALIS PKS Cutthroat Lk

Vista Lk

Junker Lake Trail Junker Lk

Please see the Bella Coola Valley Trail Guide Widgeon Lk for hiking details. Kidney Lk