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2.4 the British Raj Gupta, Toolika (2016) The influence of British rule on elite Indian menswear: the birth of the Sherwani. PhD thesis. http://theses.gla.ac.uk/7809/ Copyright and moral rights for this work are retained by the author A copy can be downloaded for personal non-commercial research or study, without prior permission or charge This work cannot be reproduced or quoted extensively from without first obtaining permission in writing from the author The content must not be changed in any way or sold commercially in any format or medium without the formal permission of the author When referring to this work, full bibliographic details including the author, title, awarding institution and date of the thesis must be given Glasgow Theses Service http://theses.gla.ac.uk/ [email protected] The Influence of British Rule on Elite Indian Menswear: The Birth of the Sherwani Toolika Gupta Submitted in fulfilment of the requirements for the Degree of PhD School of Culture and Creative Arts College of Arts University of Glasgow April 2016 2 Abstract ‘The Influence of British Rule on Elite Indian Menswear: The Birth of the Sherwani’ is a study of the influence of politics on fashion and the resulting development of new garments. This research is designed to demonstrate the effect on elite Indian menswear of the two centuries of British rule in India. It is an effort to understand how the flowing garments worn by elite Indian men in the 18th century gradually became more tailored and fitted with the passage of time. The study uses multiple sources to bring to light lesser known facts about Indian menswear, the evolution of different garments and especially of the sherwani. The sherwani is a knee-length upper garment worn by South-Asian men, and is considered to be India’s traditional menswear. My study highlights the factors responsible for the birth of the sherwani and dispels the myth that it was a garment worn by the Mughals. Simultaneously, this study examines the concept and value of ‘tradition’ in cultures. It scrutinises the reasons for the sherwani being labelled as a traditional Indian garment associated with the Mughal era, when in fact it was born towards the end of the 19th century. The study also analyses the role of the sherwani as a garment of distinction in pre- and post- independence India. 3 Table of Contents Abstract ............................................................................... 2 Table of Contents .................................................................... 3 List of Figures ........................................................................ 6 List of Illustrations by the author .............................................. 11 Preface .............................................................................. 12 Acknowledgement ................................................................. 14 Author’s Declaration .............................................................. 19 Definitions and Abbreviations ................................................... 20 Glossary ............................................................................. 21 Illustrations: ........................................................................ 25 Chapter 1 Introduction ....................................................... 32 1.1 Purpose of the Study ...................................................... 40 1.2 Research Questions ........................................................ 41 1.3 Research Methods and Methodology .................................... 43 1.3.1 Methodological Model Proposed .................................. 45 1.4 Conclusion .................................................................. 55 Chapter 2 Literature Review ................................................ 57 2.1 Introduction ................................................................ 57 2.2 Fashion and Dress History................................................. 57 2.2.1 Organisational Dress or Uniforms ................................ 64 2.2.2 Traditional Dress or Costume ..................................... 67 2.3 Dress of Indians Before and During the Raj ............................ 70 2.3.1 Indian Textiles during Colonial Times ........................... 75 2.4 The British Raj ............................................................. 77 2.5 Conclusion .................................................................. 80 Chapter 3 The Merchant Rulers and the Introduction of Uniforms, 1757-1858 82 3.1 Introduction ................................................................ 82 3.2 Historical Background ..................................................... 83 3.3 British India ................................................................. 87 4 3.3.1 Acquiring and Producing Clothing in India ...................... 91 3.3.2 Military Uniforms ................................................... 97 3.3.3 The Indian Mercantile Class in British India .................. 110 3.4 Mughal Indian Dress ...................................................... 119 3.4.1 The Emergence of Hybrid Garments: ......................... 132 3.5 Conclusion ................................................................ 143 Chapter 4 The Birth of the Sherwani during the Golden Years of the Raj, 1858-1914 ................................................................... 146 4.1 Introduction .............................................................. 146 4.2 Historical Background ................................................... 147 4.3 Suppliers of Materials in India: Shops and Stores ................... 150 4.4 The Dress of the Elite in British India ................................. 156 4.5 The Dress of British-Indian Army Officers ............................ 163 4.6 The Dress of the Indian Princes and the Creation of Traditional Garments ........................................................................ 168 4.6.1 The Birth of the Sherwani ...................................... 189 4.7 Conclusion ................................................................ 204 Chapter 5 Sherwanis for Bridegrooms and Nationalists: Establishing Traditions, 1915-2015 ........................................................... 207 5.1 Introduction .............................................................. 207 5.2 Historical Background ................................................... 208 5.3 Western Menswear Adopted by the Indian Elite ..................... 210 5.4 The Sherwani: A Tradition, a National Identity ..................... 217 5.4.1 The Sherwani of the Princes .................................... 219 5.4.2 The Sherwani of the Nationalists .............................. 230 5.4.3 The Tailoring of the Sherwani .................................. 242 5.5 The Sherwani after Independence .................................... 245 5.6 Conclusion ................................................................ 248 Chapter 6 Conclusion ........................................................ 252 6.1 The Study ................................................................. 252 6.2 Methodology .............................................................. 253 6.3 Conclusion ................................................................ 256 6.4 Scope for Future Study .................................................. 259 5 Appendix - Excerpts from Interviews ......................................... 261 Bibliography ....................................................................... 272 6 List of Figures Figure 1-1 Sherwani from the National Museum, New Delhi, Accession no – 62.2917, belonging to early 20th century. Courtesy of National Museum, New Delhi, India ..................................................................... 32 Figure 1-2 Jawaharlal Nehru with Muhammad Ali Jinnah in 1946. This photograph was taken in 1946, before India attained independence. Courtesy of Jawaharlal Nehru Museum, New Delhi. ............................ 32 Figure 1-3 An Indian wedding, Uttarakhand, India 2013. The groom wears a modern sherwani, his bride and mother are also pictured. Courtesy of Mr Mudit Mittal (groom). ............................................................... 33 Figure 1-4 The President of India, Shri Pranab Mukherjee in his Sherwani on 26th January 2015, India's Republic Day celebrations. Shri Pranab Mukherjee stands with US President Barak Obama to his left and his wife Michelle Obama to his right. To his extreme left is Mr Narendra Modi, the Prime Minister of India. Modi wears a jacket resembling the sherwani (which is usually worn by Indian politicians in summer). Courtesy of Deccan Chronicle. ............................................................................ 33 Figure 1-5 CLOVE - Methodological model proposed. .......................... 47 Figure 3-1 Map of India in 1800: the area in red is British territory. Courtesy of http://peopleofindia1868-1875photos.blogspot.in/2011/11/images-of- british-india.html .................................................................... 85 Figure 3-2 Map of India in 1857: the area in red is British territory, the inset area in green is the area of the Sepoy Mutiny. Courtesy of http://peopleofindia1868-1875photos.blogspot.in/2011/11/images-of- british-india.html .................................................................... 85 Figure 3-3 Carnatic Troops of the army in 1780. Source: Private collection. ....................................................................................... 101 Figure 3-4 Painting depicting six figures from
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