2020/7/2 下午5:20 ISSUE SPONSOR July 2020 | Vol. 50 | Issue 7 Issue | 50 Vol. | 2020 July Published by the by Published Commerce Commerce In Taipei American Chamber Of NT$150 TRAVEL & TRAVEL 2020 CULTURE Read TOPICS Online at topics.amcham.com.tw Online at TOPICS Read 號 執 照 登 記 為 雜 誌 交 寄 THE AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE IN TAIPEI TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS July 2020 | Vol. 50 | Issue 7 中 華 郵 政 北 台 字 第 5000 7_2020_Cover.indd 1

CONTENTS 7 President’s View The moment I realized I was in love with Taiwan JULY 2020 VOLUME 50, NUMBER 7 一○九年七月號 By William Foreman 12 Experiencing Taiwan’s Most Publisher 發行人 Convenient Island Getaway William Foreman 傅維廉 Editor-in-Chief 總編輯 Just a quick jaunt from Taipei, Don Shapiro 沙蕩 Xiaoliuqiu has a lot to offer the Deputy Editor 副總編輯 Jeremy Olivier 歐嘉仁 weekend traveler – beaches, Art Director/ 美術主任/ hiking, wondrous wildlife, and Production Coordinator 後製統籌 Katia Chen 陳國梅 the chance to snorkel alongside Manager, Publications Sales & Marketing 廣告行銷經理 green sea turtles. Caroline Lee 李佳紋 By Dinah Gardner Translation 翻譯 Kevin Chen, Andrew Wang 陳又銘, 王先棠 16 Can Taiwan’s Hoop Dreams Become Reality? American Chamber of Commerce in Taipei 129 MinSheng East Road, Section 3, Basketball is one of the island’s 7F, Suite 706, Taipei 10596, Taiwan best-loved sports, but unsustain- P.O. Box 17-277, Taipei, 10419 Taiwan Tel: 2718-8226 Fax: 2718-8182 able business models and training e-mail: [email protected] website: http://www.amcham.com.tw schedules have kept it from being 名稱：台北市美國商會工商雜誌 發行所：台北市美國商會 as successful in Taiwan as base- 臺北市10596民生東路三段129號七樓706室 ball. 電話：2718-8226 傳真：2718-8182 By Jeremy Olivier Taiwan Business Topics is a publication of the American Chamber of Commerce in Taipei, ROC. Contents are independent of and do not necessarily reflect the views of the Officers, Board of Governors, Supervisors or 20 Favored Local Tourism members. © Copyright 2020 by the American Chamber of Sports for the Taiwanese Commerce in Taipei, ROC. All rights reserved. Permission to reprint original material must be requested in writing from AmCham. Production done Taiwan’s top 12 domestic tour- in-house, Printing by Farn Mei Printing Co., Ltd.

登記字號：台誌第一零九六九號 ist areas were unintentionally 印刷所：帆美印刷股份有限公司 經銷商：台灣英文雜誌社 revealed by the decline in travel 台北市108台北市萬華區長沙街二段66號 發行日期：中華民國一○九年七月 abroad due to COVID-19 and a 中華郵政北台字第5000號執照登記為雜誌交寄 ISSN 1818-1961 precipitous flood of visitors to the nation’s hot spots.

Chair: C.W. Chin By Jules Quartly Vice Chairs: Fupei Wang, Timothy Shields Secretary: Seraphim Ma Treasurer: Al Chang 26 Oyster Shells and 30 A Trip Back in Time on 2019-2020 Governors: Breakwaters: Taiwan’s Taiwan’s Historic Trails Al Chang, Albert Chang, Seraphim Ma, Jan-Hendrik Meidinger, Paulus Mok. Fishing Villages A local NGO is working to 2020-2021 Governors: C.W. Chin, Brian Sung, Timothy Shields, Fupei Wang, Roger Yee, Angela Yu. Fresh seafood with a side of his- restore an island-wide network tory and local customs is served of hiking trails and walking paths 2020 Supervisors: Mark Horng, Stephen Tan, Terry Tsao. up in sleepy hamlets around Tai- that offer visitors a peek into Tai- COMMITTEES: wan’s coastline. wan’s past. Agro-Chemical/ Melody Wang; Asset Management/ Eric Lin, Angela Yang, Derek Yung; Banking/ Paulus By Steven Crook By Dinah Gardner Mok; Capital Markets/ Mandy Huang, Eric Jai, C.P. Liu; Chemical Manufacturers/ Charles Liang, Michael Wong; Cosmetics/ Abigail Lin; Defense/ Manohar 34 Sun and Southern Thyagaraj, Roger Yee; Digital Economy/ Max Chen, Renee Chou, Tai Chi Chuan; Energy/ Richard Freer, Hospitality in Laid-back Randy Tsai; Human Resources/ Christine Chen, Carmen Law, David Tsai; Infrastructure/ Wayne Kaohsiung Chin, Paul Lee; Insurance/ KT Lim, Mandy Shih, Linda Tsou; Intellectual Property & Licensing/ Jason Chen, Peter Dernbach, Vincent Shih; Marketing & New cultural attractions com- Distribution/ (tba); Medical Devices/ Louis Ko, Jeffrey bine with traditional sights Wang; Pharmaceutical/ Justin Chin, Rie Nakajima, Shuhei Sekiguchi; Private Equity/ Echo Yeh; Public to make a trip down south a Health/ Joyce Lee, Pongo Peng, Tim Shields; Retail/ Ceasar Chen, Mark Chen, Peggy Liao; Sustainable refreshing change of pace for Development Goals/ Kenny Jeng, Lume Liao, Cosmas Lu, Fupei Wang; Tax/ Heidi Liu, Cheli Liaw; residents of the north. Technology/ Cynthia Chyn, Stella Lai, Angela Yu; Telecommunications & Media/ Thomas Ee, David By Louise Watt Shin, Joanne Tsai; Transportation & Logistics/ (tba); Travel & Tourism/ Gina Tsai, Jason Yeh, Fiona Yuan. COVER PHOTO: NEIL WADE/TAIWAN ADVENTURES

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7 Contents.indd 4 2020/7/3 下午4:51 JULY 2020 • VOLUME 50 NUMBER 7 COVER SPONSOR 38 A Throwback to Taiwan’s Golden Age: A Trip to Jinguashi

By Matthew Fulco

42 What You Need to Know About Taiwan’s Snakes Snake bites are fairly rare, only a few common species are venomous, and antidotes are widely available. By Mark Caltonhill 46 Exploring Emergency and Trauma Through Art Taking the 921 Earthquake as inspi- ration, modern art exhibition “Code Blue,” held in late March, looked at how people are affected by disasters. Rooted in Taiwan – By Antonia Timmerman the Benchmark of the Travel Retail Industry 50 Executive Suite Interview with Pauline Leung of Ever Rich’s love and passion for Taiwan are reflected in the charac- Compass PR teristics of our business DNA – Integrity, Professionalism, Innovation and Philanthropy. Ever Rich has operated 17 duty-free shops for 52 Pandemic Affects Hotel Sector more than 20 years, including outlets in all the international airports in Unevenly Taiwan, as well as at the harbors and on offshore islands. Winner of Urban hotels dependent on global multiple travel awards, the retailer has successfully worked with the travelers are struggling with low Taoyuan International Airport Corporation and government in Taiwan occupancy rates, while rural proper- under the Public-Private-Partnership model, resulting in significant ties catering to the domestic market savings in government expenditures and staffing costs, as well as an are doing a brisk business. enhanced passenger experience and improved airport environment. By Matthew Fulco Under Chairman Simon Chiang’s leadership, Ever Rich has founded SPONSORED CONTENT three charitable foundations – Ever Rich Foundation, Yungray Foun- 8 Increased Vaccine Funding for a dation and Chiang’s Culture and Education Foundation – all sus- More Secure Taiwan tained by the corporation’s profits. Based on the company’s core Information source: MSD belief of “putting people first and benefiting the public,” Ever Rich encourages all of its nearly 7,000 employees to participate in com- 10 Ever Rich munity activities. A total of 549 charity events were held in 2019. Ever Rich ROT's Brand-new Airport Experience Whether providing assistance to underprivileged groups, sponsoring 19 Bayer hospital and other medical facilities, or promoting environmental pro- tection, Ever Rich is wherever help is needed. Making Bayer's Vision for a Healthy World a Reality in Taiwan 24 Fighting Lung Cancer in Taiwan 深耕臺灣 國門精彩標竿 Requires Reform 0 Information source: MSD 40 Regent Taipei’s “Summer Cruise Vacation” Room Discount Plan 56 Seeing Taiwan from the Basket of a Balloon

Taiwan Tourism Bureau 05

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PRESIDENT'S VIEW

The moment I realized I was in love with Taiwan

escribe the moment when you realized you filling with lactic acid as we climbed. There were were in love with Taiwan. four or five small waterfalls that we had to climb That was the discussion prompt a few around, presenting an interesting mental challenge. monthsD ago that someone posted in the community The higher we climbed, the warmer the water of Taiwan watchers on Twitter. It inspired a won- became because the stream flowed through sulphur derful conversation, with many people describing pits. Finally, we reached the top of the mountain, travel adventures or culinary discoveries. Some where the ground was covered with massive slabs of shared stories about friendships and acts of kindness. stone. What was unique about the stone was that in I was busy at the time and didn’t have a chance some areas, the stream had carved out mini pools. to weigh in. So now I want to make amends and They actually looked like small natural hot tubs. describe the moment when I fully realized that I had We put down our packs, stripped off our clothes, fallen in love with Taiwan. and slid down into the pools for a relaxing hot bath. It was way back in 1989. I don’t remember The mini pools were deep enough that the water exactly when, but I had already been living in came up just past my belly button as I sat in the Taiwan for a few months, studying Chinese at the water. It was so refreshing and revitalizing to soak Mandarin Training Center. An American classmate in the hot water. The only downside was the water’s of mine invited me to go on a hiking trip on the strong rotten-egg stench of sulfur. weekend. After bathing for about a half hour, we dried off, He warned me that we would get wet – very wet. put on our spare set of clothes, and began hiking I was advised to bring a fanny pack with a spare down the other side of the mountain on a trail that pair of shorts, socks, t-shirt, and towel wrapped in didn’t require wading through a stream. a sealed plastic bag to keep them dry. He told me to When we got to the road, we decided to hitch- wear sneakers and running shorts or swim trunks. hike back to the city. After sticking our thumb out I’m embarrassed to say I have no idea where we for five minutes, a young newlywed couple on a went. It might have been some part of Yangming- Sunday drive stopped and picked us up. We chit- shan National Park. This was nearly two decades chatted with our limited Mandarin, and they were before Google maps, and I couldn’t read Chinese, so amazed that two foreigners would go hiking in the I spent much of my time during my first months in mountains with no real plan about how they would Taiwan getting lost or blindly following friends who get back home. seemed to know the way. It was at this time that I began to appreciate that We hopped a city bus near the Taipei train station Taiwan was a place with incredible natural beauty. and about a half hour later we were winding our It was a great place for adventure and kind people way up a mountain road. We got off at a stop that who would give a stranger a ride home, even if they seemed to be in the middle of nowhere. We hiked reeked of sulphur. It was the moment that I realized down the road a bit until we came to an unmarked I was in love with Taiwan. trailhead, almost hidden by thick tall grass that seemed to be a perfect habitat for venomous snakes. My friend said that the trail’s location was a secret, only shared among hiking fanatics. The trail took us to a stream, where we stripped down to our shorts and began following the stream William Foreman bed up the mountain. The cool water felt refreshing President, as it splashed against my calves, which were slowly American Chamber of Commerce in Taipei

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7 presidents view.indd 7 2020/7/2 下午5:23 ADVERTORIAL

deficit since 2016. “If we want to continue to have a Increased Vaccine Funding well-regarded, comprehensive vaccination program in Taiwan – one that doesn’t for a More Secure Taiwan overburden our citizens – we really need to expand the vaccine budget,” says Chen. In addition to increased funding for ver a period of more than recognition and praise. vaccines, he notes, the source of funding 40 years, Taiwan has built Over the following three decades, should be sustainable so that the program O up a strong environment for Taiwan’s vaccine program expanded to is able to continuously accommodate immunization, drastically decreasing include over a dozen new vaccines, all everyone. once-prevalent diseases and generating fully subsidized by the central and local He adds that it is important to widespread trust in Taiwan’s public governments. Given Taiwan’s reliance on raise awareness among government, health system. However, while Taiwanese immunizations to maintain health and healthcare professionals, and civil society citizens currently enjoy almost universal prevent infectious diseases, the adoption about the importance of vaccination access to a wide range of publicly funded of a co-payment mechanism raised some beyond childhood – also known as life- vaccines, insufficiencies in that funding objections from the public, notes Dr. Chen course vaccination. This approach to threatens to reduce the effectiveness of its Hsiu-hsi, the Cambridge-trained associate immunization not only positively impacts immunization regime. Funding issues also dean of National Taiwan University’s overall public health, it has indirect effects constrain the public’s ability to receive College of Public Health. on economic activity and growth, as well as new, innovative vaccines. Immunization in Taiwan is supported on national security. A healthy population In 1974, the Taiwan government by the National Vaccine Fund, the budget is a prosperous one and a safe one. began developing a nationwide program for which comes primarily from the One of the major aims of a new and of neonatal Hepatitis B vaccinations, in national treasury and the tobacco health improved immunization program should part to stem the high rate of liver cancer and welfare surcharge on cigarette sales. be to respond to the World Health on the island. By 1986, all newborn Treasury funds should account for 60% of Organization’s call to eliminate cervical babies in Taiwan were receiving the the NVF’s finances, but over the past four cancer – often caused by the human Hepatitis B inoculations, an extraordinary years, they have only provided 30-40%, papilloma virus, or HPV – by 2030. achievement that garnered international and the fund has experienced a budget To do this, Taiwan should organize an

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MSD Vacines.indd 8 2020/7/2 下午5:23 ADVERTORIAL

HPV-related cancer prevention effort that underway, says NTU’s Chen, who has a 60% vaccination rate for teenagers, includes screening, a gender-neutral HPV been lobbying the government for years which is not bad, but we’d like to see that vaccine policy, and treatment for the virus. on the importance of an HPV- and bumped up to 80% or more in the next Taiwan already has a model it can cervical cancer-prevention program. “The few years,” says Chen. emulate to realize this goal: its impressive government has lifted the normal budget Chen posits that considering Taiwan’s achievements in treating Hepatitis C under constraint for the HPV vaccine,” he says. excellent approach to containing COVID- the Ministry of Health and Welfare. In In addition, MOHW’s Health Promotion 19, now is the time for the government to 2018, the MOHW vowed to eradicate Administration (HPA), the competent start making a sustained push to develop the disease in Taiwan by 2025, exceeding authority for vaccine administration, has a more robust immunization program. the WHO’s target by five years. In order provided government-subsidized 2-Valent Doing so will ensure that Taiwan is to realize this goal, the government HPV vaccines to 7th-grade girls since realizing the WHO’s goals on eradicating increased funding and considered drifting 2018. infectious diseases and that new vaccines restrictions on accelerating treatment for Yet the aim to rid the island of are accessible to all. Hepatitis C in 2019. cervical cancer by the 2030 deadline will Efforts to make the HPV vaccine require the removal of ongoing budget universal in Taiwan are already constraints. “We currently have around [ The information source is MSD ]

擴增疫苗經費 健全公衛國安系統

Dr. Chen Hsiu-hsi 00 0 00 0 0 05 0 0 00 0 0

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MSD Vacines.indd 9 2020/7/2 下午5:23 ADVERTORIAL

Ever Rich ROT’s Brand-new Airport Experience

n the Taoyuan International (PPP) tender has been one of the most Airport’s Terminal 2, the renovated significant ROT cases in Taiwan I Central Area Duty Free shops and in recent years. The Ministry of Food & Beverage area have officially Transportation and Communications opened. Ever Rich, winner of the cooperated with the Ministry of Finance Renovate-Operate-Transfer (ROT) to entrust Taoyuan International Airport tender, invested around NT$1 billion Co., Ltd. with awarding the project for the phase 1 reconstruction. Its to the highest bidder. The goal was to meticulous planning strategy focused increase airport revenue while reducing on providing a more efficient and government costs. The objective is to Offerings from many local and international catering professional airport experience as well be achieved by introducing efficiency brands are available in Ever Rich's renovated F&B area, which was decorated by local Taiwanese artists. as accommodating increased passenger and professionalism through public- volume. private partnership, thereby boosting Taoyuan International Airport’s the development of Taiwan’s tourism Combining Taiwanese elements with Terminal 2 Private-Public-Partnership industry. international design

Ever Rich invited the London- based interior design team The Design Solution (TDS) to create an experience for passengers to enjoy a spacious duty-free shopping area with reduced traffic flow. Passengers can now more conveniently explore the diverse products on offer, ranging all the way from cosmetics to local souvenirs to liquor and tobacco. In line with the goal of incorporating Taiwanese imagery into the store design, TDS created a winding pathway, decorated with curved A mural by a local artists displaying Taiwanese endemic species in an enchanted forest cre- patterns, that runs throughout the ates a bright and lively atmosphere in the F&B space.

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The use of neon lights not only livens up the Duty Free area, it also reflects Taiwanese street culture.

Taiwanese artist Feng Cheng- tsung’s piece “Taiwan Moun- tain,” on display at the store's entrance, represents the beauty of Taiwan.

terminal, providing a relaxing ambience Taiwan’s important role in honoring for shopping. Customers are guided Chinese tradition and culture, as well along the pathway, encouraged by the as showing the beauty of Taiwan to the interior design to explore each product world. Additionally, Ever Rich invited area and at the same time gain further multimedia artist Agi Chen to interact insight into Taiwanese culture. with passengers through a series of The construction period extended large-size digital panels. Ever Rich’s through two major tourism seasons, emphasis on customer engagement aims Chinese New Year and summer to entertain passengers with innovative to every passenger as they proceed from vacation. Despite the increased volume multi-sensory experiences, including the fashion cocktail bar (which changes of passengers, Ever Rich gave priority to a fragrance-identifier program at the each season) to the intriguing doll- passenger comfort by working at night cosmetics and perfume section, tasting clutching machine, developing a long- and adopting a column-free cantilever opportunities at the cocktail bar, and an lasting memory of Taiwanese street steel construction method to minimize immersive visual experience through VR culture as they pass by colorful neon the impact on passersby. devices. signs that coax visitors to come take a closer look. An airport experience that interacts A whole new service, concept, and The comprehensive renovation of the with all five senses image terminal redesigned and reconstructed everything from the corridors to shops Ever Rich invited Taiwanese artists Bearing in mind the demand and waiting areas. To help create a lively to use their expertise to create an of Taiwan’s visitors for consistent local atmosphere, authentic Taiwanese enjoyable and interactive shopping quality, Ever Rich personnel made characteristics are represented through experience. Among them was Feng numerous visits to well-known local museum stores and shops specializing in Cheng-tsung, who created a series of food suppliers. As a result of that aboriginal and Hakka products, as well giant art installations, such as “Taiwan research, it has now introduced a as artistic works and festival events to Mountain” and “Passengers,” which wide range of famous local Taiwanese spotlight Taiwan to the world. Through use traditional thread-binding books and Asian delicacies, complementing this ambitious project, Ever Rich is not to bring Yushan, Taiwan’s highest renowned international brands such as just marketing Taiwan to the world but mountain, and the world’s eight McDonald’s and Starbucks. is serving as the dynamic bridge between peaks to life. His projects symbolized Ever Rich hopes to bring enjoyment Taiwan and the world.

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BAISHAWEI PORT IN XIAOLIUQIU

country. From Taipei, catch the 7:31 a.m. Experiencing Taiwan’s high-speed rail to Kaohsiung and you can be dipping your toes in the ocean on one of Xiaoliuqiu’s beaches by late lunchtime. Most Convenient Shaped like a little running shoe, the 6.8-square-kilometer island is just a half- hour ferry ride from the Taiwan mainland. Island Getaway You can scooter around it in less than half an hour. If you’re fit, you can hire a bicycle and cycle it in a few sweaty hours. You’ll Just a quick jaunt from Taipei, Xiaoliuqiu has a lot see many locals power walking the coastal to offer the weekend traveler – beaches, hiking, roads, but that will take considerably lon- ger and be far less pleasant. wondrous wildlife, and the chance to snorkel Don’t let its size mislead you. It takes alongside green sea turtles. at least three days to enjoy all the island’s attractions, which include turtle spotting; snorkeling and diving; the inexplicable Tai- wanese favorite – rocks shaped like people here are no American servicemen or animals; cave exploring; dramatic cliff BY DINAH GARDNER stationed here, but Xiaoliuqiu (or views; mini-hikes through bamboo and Little Ryukyu) doesn’t do a bad job banyan forests; canoeing and stand-up PHOTOS BY SERGIO PALMA ofT living up to its name as Taiwan’s mini paddle boarding; semi-submersible boat Okinawa. Just like Japan’s southernmost trips; hands-on nature tours; half-decent prefecture, this tiny island, a mere nudge beaches with clear, clean ocean water; and southwest of Kaohsiung, has crinkly coral zipping around on a scooter with the sea reefs, secret coves, beaches, and marine wind in your hair. Dramatic sunsets and wildlife. sunrises are an extra treat. And while the coronavirus pandemic Getting there from Kaohsiung is easy. continues to stifle plans for holidays From Zuoying (Kaohsiung’s high-speed abroad, it makes an excellent choice if rail station), take the MRT to Siaogang you want to get away without leaving the Station at the end of the red line, and

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then grab a taxi or Uber (about NT$500) ing indisputably Taiwanese (there are three balcony bulged in yellow mosaic, the roof to Donggang Port, where a vessel from 7-Elevens and one Family Mart). On sultry was rippling and sky blue, while walls were one of the two ferry companies leaves summer evenings, locals sit and gossip daubed in the lavender, pink, and purple every hour or so for the 30-minute trip to outside on stools, cooling themselves with hues of dreams. Xiaoliuqiu. Before jumping on the first hand fans. The pace of life here is decided- If it’s not a guesthouse, then it’s prob- speedboat after arriving at Donggang, ly slower than in the cities. The few streets ably a house of worship, as more temples however, you’ll first want to make a stop – there are only two main roads on the than you can shake an incense stick at are at Huaqiao Market just past the ferry island, a coastal road and another down its scattered across the island. One that stands terminal. This famous seafood market has spine – are mostly empty of cars and large out is Shangshan Fuan Temple on the west- some of the best sashimi in Taiwan for a vehicles, although they do hum lightly with ern side overlooking the sea. An enormous fraction of the cost in Taipei. You won’t scooters. stone lion with golden claws roars at the find its equal on Xiaoliuqiu either. Along with fishing, tourism is Xiaoliu- entrance. qiu’s main economic activity, reflected Another particularity of Xiaoliuqiu is a First impressions by the impressive number of places to multitude of friendly cats. You’ll find them stay. Wonderfully, some of the kookiest sunbathing on the rocks, lounging about As you disembark at the main tourist guesthouses in Taiwan can be found here. on tourist trails, snoozing in empty flow- port of Baishawei, you’ll notice a pretty There’s the very fancy, ocean-facing Peeka- erpots, and winding themselves around the harbor with bobbing boats, painted hous- poo that looks like a giant concertinaed postcard rack in town. And in a nod to es, and a string of scooter rental shops. doll’s house; the nautical-themed Chuanwu the main tourist draw, the Chelonia mydas Getting a scooter (an international driving Homestay that has a shark-jawed doorway or green sea turtle, cartoon motifs of the license officially required) will give you the and a giant hull protruding from its façade; creature – sometimes showing them rid- freedom to explore this lovely island easily. and the Holding Hands Hotel, whose ing a scooter or snacking on baozi – can There are public buses, but service is infre- entrance is flanked by a statue of a horse be found all over the island. You’ll spot quent. with a lightbulb on its head. We stayed at them on postboxes, painted on rocks, and Xiaoliuqiu itself has a kind of sleepy Moon Star Villa, clearly designed by a fan grinning on tourist guide T-shirts. The Southeast Asian feel to it while still remain- of the Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí. The ubiquitous claw crane machines here come

Flower Vase Rock is one of Xiaoliuqiu's most notable natural formations and a good location for swimming with green sea turtles.

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Those who join Xiaoliuqiu's intertidal zone eco-tour will be able to hold in their hands interesting sea creatures, above, while the night tour introduces visitors to the local flora, such as the fish poison tree, below.

order to force her to marry him. After she escaped, the hog, driven wild with grief, died of a broken heart. Along Xiaoliuqiu’s dramatic coast- line, there are countless vantage points to admire the energy of the battering waves. If you want to feel the spray in your face, Black Devil Cave (sometimes signposted Black Dwarf Cave) is a maze-like walk through coral tunnels that open onto view- stuffed to the gills with turtle plushies of wan and Beauty Cave on the west side and ing platforms that are safe yet close enough all sizes. Secret Beach on the east side. Gebanwan to taste the salt in the air. The pathway is probably the nicest beach for sunbath- snakes through the rock faces pitted and Swimming with turtles ing. Secret Beach, in spite of its name, is whorled by generations of erosion and a popular pebbly cove that is somewhat weather, in some patches showing the neat The best place to spot turtles is around protected from the crashing waves. While I imprints of fossils. As dusk falls, the setting the corner from the main harbor at Flower bobbed about here, a turtle glided past and sun turns the green sea into marmalade. Vase Rock, the island’s iconic feature. The dove down, disappearing into the shadows. rock itself is a bit underwhelming, a top- It was a magical experience. A few minutes Flora and fauna heavy hunk of coral topped by a thatch later she reappeared and then in an instant of vegetation next to a scruffy triangle of was gone again. Everything is well signposted and with pebbly beach, but turtles can’t get enough Xiaoliuqiu is not just sea and sand; a helpful tourist information office in of the algae covering the rocks here. If the there’s also some nice walking. Wild Boar town, you can explore the island easily by sea isn’t too rough, it’s safe to snorkel and Trench is a mini-hike under a cool canopy yourself. But there are two excellent nature with some luck encounter one of these gen- of ferns and banyan trees; aerial roots trips that should not be missed and can be tle giants. But be sure not to disturb them – and vines snake down the coral rock and booked from most guesthouses (the cost is that includes trying to touch or feed them, spiral around trunks like Medusa’s hair. just NT$100 each). You must have your swimming directly above them or getting A wooden boardwalk path winds through own transport to get to the start of the closer than five meters – as the animal is the forest, emerges at points to offer tour, so if you can’t rent a scooter, check an endangered species. Last year, a German bird’s-eye views of the ocean crashing out an electric bicycle, which does not teenager was nabbed by the Xiaoliuqiu below, and slips between sheer rock faces require a license. Coast Guard hours after he shared a photo creating an otherworldly scene, straight The night tour takes you to a lookout of himself online pawing at one. out of Jurassic Park. The spot is named point on the coast to see the distant pin- There are several other spots where you after a legend about a lusty pig spirit pricks of light from Kaoshiung and Dong- can see turtles – the best ones being Geban- that stole the clothes of a bathing fairy in gang, the lamps of fishing boats that look

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like little stars, and any local flora and Quiet times that comes close to matching the melt-in- fauna picked up in the beam of the guide’s your-mouth sashimi at Donggang Port, flashlight. We were treated to the sight of The intertidal zone tour is so popular Liuqiufan (Liuqiu Sushi) at 30 Guanguang- the cement-colored bottoms of birds roost- that three or four big groups were wad- gang Street is a cute Japanese joint that ing in a tree. The warbling white-eyes, as ing through the shallows the day I went, dishes up decent rolls on black slate plates. they turned out to be, didn’t seem to mind, despite tourist numbers being dramatically Super popular with locals and tourists as they continued to snooze despite the hit by the coronavirus pandemic. It was a alike is breakfast joint Yoyo at 169 Sanmin guide’s booming commentary. different story in town, with restaurants Road. Perch on one of their stools outside He also pointed out a hapless crab scut- and cafés closed and guesthouses offering and enjoy a piping hot, deep-fried dough tling across the road, a dancing stick insect half-priced rooms. wrap filled with melted cheese and your on a lonely twig, and one of the most psy- Matthew Tsai, owner of snorkeling choice of bacon, tuna, or chicken. chedelic flowers I’ve ever seen. The blooms gear rental shop No. 88 Wharf (88 Mahuajuan (), fried dough con- of the Barringtonia asiatica, otherwise ) on the main tourist strip of Minsheng voluted into a twig shape and sometimes known as the fish poison tree, are like pink Road, said pre-pandemic business had been called sesame twists in English, make a and white electric wires erupting from a booming but was now down to about 40% simple and cheap gift option. Its origins are center. They only open at night when their of the previous level. “I’m not worried,” he in northern China, but Xiaoliuqiu has its heady scent attracts bats and moths. said. “I’m from here, so I don’t have any own “recipe” and vendors hawk bags for Even better is the intertidal zone eco- extra costs. During quiet days I just relax NT$50 apiece. A cross between a cookie tour. You’ll get your feet wet as you wade at home.” and a cracker, the twists come flavored through the shallows of slippery rocks But he is one of the lucky ones. Many with your choice of brown sugar, pep- and coral, but you’ll be able to hold in of the guesthouse and restaurant owners percorn, sweet plum powder, seaweed, or your hands an array of fantastical ocean come from the elsewhere in Taiwan and mustard. Hard and crunchy, they are not creatures from the cool pulpy bodies of sea they must be hurting. These days Tsai said really that tasty, but still hard to put down cucumbers (its anus, ringed with tiny teeth, he keeps irregular hours, telling tourists once you get started. doubles as its mouth); sea hares (who spit who rent his life jackets, flippers, and snor- For drinking options, Wave Bar just up a cloud of purplish ink if they feel threat- kels to just leave them at the doorway if from the harbor at 308 Sanmin Road has ened); and the spiky balled sea urchins he’s not in, which is often. a resident dog, a good selection of bottled that look black but are actually a midnight craft beer in the fridge, and an outdoor green. Scores of them crowd rock pools Modest menu patio. There’s no ocean view, but if you’re looking like a forest of soot sprites from lucky the dog will come out and keep you a Hayao Miyazaki film. If your tour is at Despite many restaurants being shut- company. And what better way to end a Shanfu Ecological Walk, look out for the tered, you won’t starve on Xiaoliuqiu. day swimming with turtles than enjoying a giant rock shaped like a plump pig. Although there is nothing on the island cold beer with a furry friend at your feet?

Cartoon motifs of the native green sea turtle are ubiquitous in Xiaoliuqiu.

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Can Taiwan’s Hoop Dreams Become Reality?

Basketball is one of the island’s best-loved sports, but unsustainable business models and training schedules have kept it from being as successful in Taiwan as baseball.

BY JEREMY OLIVIER

PHOTO: RICHARD CHANG

n April, the New York Times published a long time ago for a career in business competitions and train high-potential an article by veteran sportswriter Marc and now serves as Costco’s Senior Vice basketball talent. The league consists of Stein entitled “Can the N.B.A. Learn President for Asia. He notes that the situ- boys’ and girls’ divisions, which are further Ifrom Taiwan’s Basketball Bubble?” The ation was different when he was playing divided into first and second tiers. The story discussed how Taiwan’s Super Bas- on Taiwan’s national team and corporate first-tier boys’ division championship is the ketball League (SBL) season had proceeded (now SBL) league in the 1980s and 1990s. most-viewed student sports competition in largely as scheduled through the COVID- Back then, he says, the games would be so Taiwan. 19 pandemic, except that the games had packed that many attendees would resort The HBL is so popular in part because moved to much smaller venues and no to buying huangniupiao, or scalped tickets. attendance at the games is free of charge. fans were allowed inside. The absence of Yet in terms of pure numbers of partici- Since the MOE is the organizer, providing an excited audience made it difficult to get pants, basketball undoubtedly still tops the access to the games is considered a pub- pumped up for games, some players for list in Taiwan. Even on the hottest, muggi- lic service. For some games at the Taipei the SBL team featured in the article, the est summer nights, one can find a pickup Arena, as many as 10,000 to 12,000 seats Taoyuan Pauian Archibald, told Stein. game to join pretty much anywhere in the are filled. And whatever might be lost in What the article didn’t explicitly men- city. Much of that popularity is due to the ticket sales is more than made up for with tion was that attendance at SBL games sheer simplicity of the game. All you need the sponsorship HBL has received from was already very low to begin with, to the is a hoop, a court, and a ball. numerous multinational corporate brands, point that sponsors had begun pulling out And while attendance at SBL games most notably Nike. and the number of the teams in the league may be unimpressive, stadiums in Taiwan “Although the league was formed over had dwindled to just five. “Even before still fill up – surprisingly – for high school 30 years ago, it didn’t really start getting COVID-19, pro basketball here was on life basketball competitions. more attention until about 12 or 13 years support,” says former NCAA and profes- The High School Basketball League ago,” says Rachel Chen, chief operating sional basketball player Richard Chang. (HBL) was formed by the Ministry of officer of local film production company “The televised games are nothing to be Education (MOE) in 1988, a year after and talent agency Touch of Light Films. proud of, but when you go to the games the launch of the island’s first college-level “This is mostly due to Nike’s very smart, themselves, there's more staff there than organization, the University Basketball strategic sponsorship. Every year, the com- spectators.” Association (UBA). The motivation for cre- pany starts preparing for the tournament It’s very discouraging to witness, says ating the HBL was to expand the pool of very early, backing each team financially Chang, who hung up his basketball jersey talented athletes in Taiwan through sports and helping them come up with logos,

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visuals, and other aspects.” as one of the commentators in the film. startup based in Taipei. Working closely Another central factor that has boosted “The actors worked hard, constantly with local schools, Cheng and his team the HBL’s popularity is the three-year, being placed on defensive and offensive have launched their own Choxue League US$1 million deal the Chinese Taipei positions. We worked from 7 a.m. all the (CXL), as an alternative to the HBL. School Sport Federation – the HBL’s par- way until midnight some days – we basi- Cheng’s inspiration for the CXL came ent organization – inked with FOX Sports cally had to live in the stadium for about a from his own experience with sports as an in 2015 to broadcast major games being month.” adolescent. Suddenly transplanted to the played across the island. The play-by- In the end, We Are Champions! was not U.S. state of Georgia at age 13 to live with play is accompanied by commentary from as successful as Touch of Light had hoped, his aunt and uncle after practically being experts, including coaches and former HBL taking in around US$1 million in ticket orphaned in Taiwan, Cheng came to real- players. sales – about one-third of the film’s bud- ize that sports at schools in the American The size and intensity of the HBL fan get. However, it received significant media south is everything. He caught on quickly support inspired Chen of Touch of Light attention and social media mentions from and began getting involved in a range of Films, who did not have a sports back- several public figures and celebrities. The varsity sports, most notably track and field ground, to work with director Chang Jung- buzz generated about the film domestically and American football, which he excelled chi to create a movie centered around spoke volumes about Taiwan’s love of high at so much that he was eventually offered a the HBL. We Are Champions!, released school basketball. full athletic scholarship to Harvard. in August last year, tells the story of two After working briefly with the NFL brothers who end up competing against Varsity blues in China after university, Cheng decided each other in the HBL championship. to bring his sports credibility back to his Although the plot of We Are Champi- However much a success the HBL has homeland, throwing his entire savings into ons! centers on the relationship between been in terms of viewership and financial getting Choxue up and running. By 2016, the two main actors, the HBL is the crucial support, it has also come in for quite a the company had received its first round of backdrop for the movie. Chen and Chang bit of criticism over the years, especially investment, with backers including Brook- therefore strove to make the depiction of regarding the total lack of any academic lyn Nets owner Joe Tsai and former NBA the basketball scenes as realistic and accu- requirement. Student athletes can fail all superstar Jeremy Lin. rate as possible. To do this, they sought out their classes and still be allowed to play for young actors with at least some basketball the HBL. experience, and Chang put them through “To say that grades are irrelevant six months of grueling training before film- would be wrong,” says Chia Fan, who pre- ing started. viously played for and later coached one The film’s production was a real chal- of the HBL’s premier teams, the Nanshan lenge, says Chen, who noted that many Panthers. “We all care about the students’ of the scenes from the final championship schoolwork and academic progress, but the games required expensive special effects pressure to win games is huge, and you can and a lot of rehearsal time. “We had to see this in sponsor Nike’s slogan that the be very meticulous with our editing,” she HBL is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.” says. “The distance between the audience This pressure to win places enormous and the court is really close, so it would be strain on the players, Chia says, and their obvious if the special effects were poorly performance in school often suffers as a executed.” She says that director Chang result. wanted viewers to feel as if they were sit- In addition, since the HBL tournament ting along the sideline, experiencing the schedule is incredibly intense, teams might game in person. play as many as seven games in a week in The game scenes were also painstak- order to move on to the next round. To ingly shot from multiple different angles, prepare for such a packed, fast-paced com- says Chia Fan, a basketball coach, com- petition, players undergo extremely hard mentator for FOX Sports, and former HBL training, sometimes for up to eight hours a player who served as the main advisor for day for months. The frequent result is that the movie. Part of Chia’s job was to design the vast majority of teams play very few around 40 different plays for the actors games in a given season, while the better to practice until they could execute them teams over-train and over-perform, and flawlessly, adding to the sense of authentic- their players quickly become mentally and Richard Chang, in white, once played ity of the movie. physically burned out. for Taiwan's national team and profes- “The director had high standards, re- Among those thinking about ways sional league, but opted to transition to filming each shot until it was perfect,” to improve the situation is Cheng Ho, a corporate career early on. says Chia, who also made his acting debut founder of Choxue, a youth-sports-focused PHOTO: RICHARD CHANG

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Preparing for and making the High School Basketball-themed movie We Are Champions! was challenging for both the actors and those involved in the film's production. PHOTO: TOUCH OF LIGHT FILMS

Chang of Costco thinks that for many, the choice is pretty clear. “For a lot of kids and a lot of parents, it's not desirable for their child to play in the SBL because it's not sustainable for them relative to their career,” he says. “Unlike the NBA, where salaries are high and playing for even just five years puts players in a good financial position, the starting salary for SBL is anywhere from NT$40,000 to $60,000 a month. And if you spend five or 10 years in the SBL, your opportunity cost is very high because that's five or 10 years you're not in the workforce.” Chang’s decision to retire early from basketball reflected his conviction that the The most obvious difference between grew up playing and watching basketball sport was a means to an end and not the the two leagues is the CXL’s more rigor- on TV with his older brother Akeme, who end itself. “While I tend to be a little pes- ous academic criteria – students need to went off to play in professional teams over- simistic about my time with basketball, pass their classes to play, which Cheng says seas while Brendon was still a teenager. I’m still very bullish on athletics in that is a great motivating factor. However, the “I really wanted to follow in my broth- they develop qualities, like teamwork and CXL’s seasons are longer – from October er’s footsteps,” Brendon told Taiwan Busi- leadership skills, that you probably can’t to March – similar to those of most high ness TOPICS. So, when Akeme told him get from just the classroom,” he says. His schools in the U.S. about a sports scholarship being offered by Chinese-language book Coaching Your- Additionally, whereas HBL games are fellow Vincentian Craig Lee Sam, who had self emphasizes that outlook, encouraging all held at the Taipei Arena, the CXL incor- previously played Division II college bas- young Taiwanese to get involved in sports porates a home-away format, in which ketball in Taiwan and was coaching there to reap the same benefits he did from his games take place at the schools themselves. at the time, Brendon leapt at the chance. previous athletic career. Cheng argues that this approach is much For the past four years, he has played cen- With the COVID-19 pandemic forcing more effective in fostering a sense of pride ter for the team at Chien Hsin University U.S. sports leagues to shorten or postpone in each school’s team and can ultimately of Science and Technology in Taoyuan, their 2020 seasons, the SBL is trying to generate more revenue for the teams. while also working on a bachelor’s degree figure out how to maintain the current In addition to the league itself, Choxue in foreign languages. attention it’s receiving from sports fans also has a digital component – choxue. “It was difficult to get used to the style around the world. This May, it announced com – that lets players and teams track of playing here at first – lots of outside reforms to its regulations, seeking to make their progress over time. “It’s kind of like shooting, more fast-paced,” says Smart. games more competitive and exciting to a LinkedIn for sports,” says Cheng, who He notes that back home there were maybe watch. The changes included allowing for- notes that the ultimate goal of the web- only half a dozen basketball courts on the eign UBA players with at least three years’ site and app is to help teams make money whole island, and he was accustomed to experience playing in Taiwan to participate through local sponsorships. playing three-on-three streetball style, rath- in the league’s 18th draft. er than the more formal five-on-five full- Also, SBL teams may now each hire Moving up through the ranks court game of the UBA. He also needed a two Asian (non-Taiwanese) players and courtside translator when he first arrived one other foreigner. However, these new College basketball also has its fans in but has since learned enough Chinese to rules were accompanied by restrictive Taiwan, and like the HBL is broadcast on communicate with his Taiwanese team- height and salary caps. For example, the FOX Sports with color commentary. Part mates and coaches without difficulty. foreign player recruited from overseas can- of the draw of the UBA is the growing Once talented players graduate from not be taller than 6’7” and cannot be paid number of foreign players on the teams. university, they must decide whether to go more than NT$360,000 per month – con- One such player is Brendon Smart from on to play in Taiwan’s professional leagues ditions that left some questioning whether the Caribbean island of St. Vincent. Smart or seek opportunities elsewhere. Richard the SBL was really ready to change.

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basketball.indd 18 2020/7/2 下午5:25 MESSAGE FROM BAYER

Making Bayer's Vision for a Healthy World a Reality in Taiwan

hen Jennifer Yong was production to satisfy consumers’ promoted to become nutritional needs. W Managing Director of Bayer The ethos behind Bayer’s “Health for Taiwan in January, she and her team All, Hunger for None” vision has never had no idea what the following six been more relevant than right now, as months would have in store. At that the coronavirus pandemic continues point, what would soon become the to affect communities and individuals global COVID-19 pandemic had yet to across the globe. “COVID-19 has spread much beyond China. shown us how critical health and By then, however, the Malaysian- nutrition are,” says Jennifer. “I’m so Jennifer Yong born, Taiwan-educated pharma proud to be working for Bayer as we Managing Director, Bayer Taiwan professional had already racked up join forces with the global community 20 years of experience at the German in fighting the virus.” that patients are treated, and ensure multinational. Nearly half that time One step Bayer has taken since the that they can afford the treatments,” was spent at posts in Bayer New outbreak began is cooperating with she says. “Therefore, our ultimate goal Zealand, Bayer Philippines, and health authorities in different countries is to have more of our products receive Bayer’s Singapore/Malaysia offices. She by providing them with the company’s reimbursement from the National therefore felt comfortable taking on the available stock of products that have Health Insurance program, as this myriad new challenges the coronavirus potential efficacy in treating patients would allow patients to have better eventually gave rise to. Not one to shy with COVID-19. access to innovative treatments.” away from difficult situations, Jennifer In addition, Bayer has joined the Despite the challenges she’s likes to quote former U.S. President World Health Organization’s Access encountered, Jennifer considers herself Franklin D. Roosevelt: “A smooth sea to COVID-19 Tools Accelerator lucky to be given the opportunity to never made a skilled sailor.” initiative, which was launched to swiftly work in so many different places but Jennifer is now helping Bayer find and make available diagnostics, notes that “luck is what happens when to implement its new global vision, therapeutics, and vaccines globally. preparation meets opportunity.” To the titled “Health for All, Hunger for The company is also performing new generation of young leaders that None,” in Taiwan. The first part of diagnostic test at the Pharma division’s wish to go abroad to work, she offers this objective sets out to ensure that headquarters in Berlin, mass producing some sage advice. patients have access to high-quality, disinfectant agents, and on a case-by- “First, take steps to improve yourself innovative medical products. The case basis releasing Bayer healthcare every day,” she begins. “Only by doing second component seeks to promote professionals to volunteer fighting this will you be able to grow and move sustainable agricultural practices among COVID-19 in their communities. beyond your comfort zone. the company’s cooperating farmers, “The highest priority for us as “Second, income is important, allowing for enhanced production and a a pharmaceutical company is to but it should not be your biggest more ample food supply. protect our employees, patients, and priority. Rather, focus on building The company is striving to meet communities, and to ensure we maintain your credibility and value, and making these goals through the work of our current supply lines and production contributions.” its three divisions: Pharma, which and use our existing knowledge to Lastly, Jennifer says, study the collaborates with stakeholders across actively combat the virus,” says Jennifer. language and culture of each place the healthcare community and donates In Taiwan, the company is working you’re assigned to and learn to value funds, medicines, and equipment to register its innovative products in the diversity. “The mark of a good leader around the world; Consumer Health, market as early as possible. “But getting is the ability to make the mix of which supplies vitamins that help boost the license approved for each product is different backgrounds and viewpoints immune system function; and Crop just the beginning,” Jennifer adds. in a diverse organization work for the Science, which helps farmers increase “More importantly, we need to see benefit of everyone,” she concludes.

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Bayer.indd 19 2020/7/2 下午5:26 HOT SPOTS

Favored Local Tourism Spots for the Taiwanese

Taiwan’s top 12 domestic tourist areas were unintentionally revealed by the decline in travel abroad due to COVID-19 and a precipitous flood of visitors to the nation’s hot spots.

BY JULES QUARTLY

PHOTO: FORESTRY BUREAU, CHIAYI DISTRICT OFFICE

ack in early April when the battle tation centers such as Taipei Main Station against COVID-19 was at a partic- and the 12 tourist spots. ularly acute stage, the Tomb Sweep- Minister of Health and Welfare and ingB holiday provided a bit of respite from CECC head Chen Shih-chung had taken the anxiety caused by the pandemic. The a calculated risk in not issuing a stay-at- holiday is an occasion for families to get home order for the four-day holiday, but together to pay their respects at the tombs it was a lesson learned. When a spike of their ancestors, often combined with the occurred in the number of reported virus chance to get away for a long weekend. infections a week later, Chen imposed This year, with flights grounded and crowd-control measures at the nation’s Taiwanese residents evidently frustrated main tourist attractions, night markets, by the constraints of social distancing, and temples. hundreds of thousands hit the roads and The good news is that around two headed for their favored vacation spots. months later, in late May, Chen took a After two days, the Central Epidemic Com- media-friendly trip to the resort area of mand Center (CECC) became so concerned Kenting in Pingtung County, and urged by the swelling crowds that it sent out text others to get out and about as well. After messages to cellphones in the vicinity of 12 41 days without any new domestic infec- of the country’s top domestic tourism sites, tions and with just 441 COVID-19 cases warning people to keep their distance, wear logged overall, Chen’s message was that a mask, and wash their hands frequently. domestic tourism is safe, as long as basic The fear was that a spike in the number precautions are taken. of cluster infections would undo all the Now that normal domestic travel is not commendable work that had been done only being allowed, but encouraged, let’s before in largely containing the disease. look back at what the Tomb Sweeping Fes- The Environmental Protection Administra- tival incident revealed about the 12 most tion responded by conducting a compre- popular tourism sites for Taiwanese, given hensive disinfection campaign at transpor- below in alphabetical order:

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Alishan National Forest laser-projection son et lumiere experience trade across the Taiwan Strait with China, 1. Recreation Area ( at the MOTUS International Fulldome Fes- and the local temple dedicated to Mazu, ), Chiayi County tival, which they founded. the goddess of the sea, became one of the Taipei-based travel writer-photographer most important religious institutions on Nick Kembel says Alishan has been the Bade Pond Ecological Park ( the island, A statue of Mazu, known as the nation’s “most popular mountain resort 2. ), Taoyuan “Queen of Heaven” in the local pantheon by visitor numbers for nearly a century.” A Statues of bug-eyed frogs wearing glass- of deities, was brought over from Fujian in collection of peaks, it’s famed for “sea of es are a big part of the attraction of Bade 1694 and over the next three centuries the cloud” views, the Alishan Forest Railway, Pond because kids love them and parents temple and its influence steadily expanded. tea farms, long walks, spectacular sunrises, need child-friendly places for day trips. Hundreds of thousands of people visit and some great food. Hewn from farmland and wasteland, during the annual Dajia Mazu Pilgrim- Kembel likes the mountain village of the five-hectare park features a number of age, which dates back to 1730. Originally Fenqihu (), which is the terminal ponds (hence the name and the frogs) and scheduled for February this year, it was station of the Forest Railway, and recom- old trees. It has a forest trail for light hikes canceled due to COVID-19. mends the famous bento lunchboxes and of about 1.4 kilometers, an elevated pavil- nearby Ruitai Historic Trail for hiking. ion for views and photos, plus the usual Dongdamen Night Market ( On the less traveled path, along a long coffee shop and souvenir store. 4. ), Hualien County and winding road, is the village of Laiji ( During the week, busloads of school- Dongdamen Night Market is one of the ) in Alishan Township, where former children descend on the site to learn about few major tourist attractions on Taiwan’s professional saxophonist Corbett Wall nature and environmental protection. On East Coast and getting there from Taipei and his partner Irene Wall have started weekends, younger kids enjoy feeding the means a fairly time-consuming journey on an eco travel company called Rebalance ducks, watching shorebirds, enjoying floral the Puyuma train or driving on narrow and Plus. Working in cooperation with the displays, and picnicking. winding mountain roads. Most visitors to indigenous Tsou tribes in the area, they Hualian will take in Taroko National Park, offer programs involving hiking, cutting Beigang Chao-Tian Temple ( so the night market provides the perfect down bamboo, and even traditional hunt- 3. ), Yunlin County ending to a long day of sightseeing. ing. There’s also a strong creative element, The port of Beigang prospered start- Built on the site of the old train sta- providing Asia’s first 360-degree immersive ing in the 17th century on the back of tion, Dongdamen partially burned down

PHOTO: WIKIPEDIA

Left, Monumental indigenous tribal carving in the Alishan Forest Recreation Area. Above, the Chao-Tian Temple in Beigang. PHOTO: JULES QUARTLY

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PHOTO: WIKIPEDIA

Top left, the Hutoupi reservoir, and bottom left, Japanese-era buildings at Guanziling. Above, beach goers at Kenting's south bay.

PHOTO: TOURISM BUREAU OF TAINAN CITY GOVERNMENT

wide, wild empty strands, belongs to surf- tions at tourism sites, it caused a backlash ers, while the central coast around the in Tainan, home to four of the 12 destina- town of Kenting, with its beach umbrellas, tions. The incensed mayor, Huang Wei-che, water sports and weekend night markets, described the designation as unfairly caus- is for holiday-making families and honey- ing hardship for Tainan’s previously boom- moon couples.” ing tourism industry. Kenting National Park is a good place Huang questioned the accuracy of the to rent scooters and find accommodations, Ministry of Transportation and Commu- and it also has a number of decent restau- nications’ “Freeway 1968” app, which rants and a night market. Further up the aims to give real-time information on the coast is Kenting Town, which gets chaotic number of people at tourist attractions to during the annual Spring Scream music help promote social distancing. It identified festival and also has resort hotels, scooter overcrowding at 27 locations in Tainan on PHOTO: TOURISM BUREAU OF TAINAN CITY GOVERNMENT rentals, and diving schools, in addition to Tomb Sweeping weekend, which prompted last year, but it is now back to full strength roadside vendors and amusements. criticism from the mayor that the city was with about 400 vendors. A 30-minute Unlike the many essentially day trips being wrongly targeted. walk from the current train station, the mentioned elsewhere in this list, Kenting That said, having so much prime tourist three main market areas feature Taiwanese, has so many varied and plentiful activities real estate is surely an enviable problem. indigenous, and Chinese cuisines. The mar- that a stay of a week or longer is advised. For example, Guanziling’s hot springs ket gets going at 6 p.m. and ends at about The attractions include the National Muse- are not only located amid some stunning midnight. It includes all the usual goodies um of Marine Biology and Aquarium, his- mountain scenery, they also have natural and a carousel ride for the kiddies near the toric Eluanbi Lighthouse (the southernmost mud baths, which soften the skin, improve entrance. point in Taiwan) for photos and ambience, circulation, and soothe those stubborn scenic hikes in Longpan Park, Paiwan aches and pains. Kenting National Park ( indigenous culture, and hot springs, go- Wushantou Reservoir, built by the 5. ), Pingtung County karting, diving, and beach life. Japanese colonial administration in 1920, The top attraction on the south coast features a waterfall and over 100 islets on is Kenting, which author Simon Pridmore Guanziling (), what is known as Coral Lake. The reser- rather generously refers to as the “Taiwan- 6-10.Wushantou Reser- voir has a tragi-romantic back story, as the ese Riviera” in his useful and enjoyable voir (), Wusanto Huching wife of the Japanese engineer who designed book Dive into Taiwan. Calling it a “land Resort Hotel), and Hutoupi () it drowned herself in the lake after her hus- of long white beaches, rolling green hills – all in Tainan band died during World War II. Wusanto and summer vacations,” he writes that When the CECC cited 12 hotspots in Huching Resort Hotel is a popular place “the Pacific coastline to the east, with its warning citizens to avoid crowded condi- for families to stay here.

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Known as “Little Sun Moon Lake,” Hutoupi was Taiwan’s first reservoir, constructed in 1846. It’s a serene little spot, with a charming suspension bridge and rented pleasure boats bobbing along around the lake. It’s also popular with campers and barbecue fans.

Cieding District, Kaohsiung 11. () Originally part of lands occupied by the Pingpu indigenous tribe, Cieding Dis- trict (also known as Jiading), was colo- nized early in the 17th century by settlers from China who chased the schools of mullet that drifted with ocean currents to Taiwan’s southeast coast during the winter. This “fisherman’s cape” grew into PHOTO: JULES QUARTLY a decent-sized harbor during the Dutch Restaurants offering the Chiayi specialty of turkey rice. period (1624 to 1662). Seasonal catches of mullet were harvested for their flesh but Overfishing led to the port’s decline a bikes, and canoeing and sailing activities principally for the mass of eggs produced few decades ago, with the number of mul- have turned the area into a big draw for by females, which were pressed into lung- let fishing boats reduced from about 160 families keen on ocean views and breezes, shaped slabs of roe. Today they are sold as in the late 20th century to just six in 2012. as well as a fish dinner. a costly delicacy traditionally eaten during Facing ruin, the port was turned into a Weekends get packed out as residents Chinese New Year. tourist attraction that consists of Lover’s from the nearby cities of Tainan and Kao- Wharf and the large Singda Harbor Fish hsiung escape for a coastal road drive Market () catering to along Highway 17 and some fresh air. The foodies. Essentially a glorified maritime- day trip takes numerous charming vil- themed night market, there are also what lages and a stop at the four-kilometer-long are fancifully called “European-style” Golden Beach, within Tainan’s city limits, waterfronts to stroll along. one of the country’s best windsurfing and A boardwalk leads out to the sea, and kitesurfing destinations. buildings topped with sail-like roofs host venues for performances and art shows, Wenhua Road Night Market coffee stores, and restaurants. There are 12. (), Chiayi City light shows in the evening and a popular The Chiayi night market on Wenhua area for photographers to take pictures of Road attracts a lot of visitors because of its the glorious sunsets. Guided tours, rented convenient location for those making day PHOTO: JULES QUARTLY trips up Alishan by car or the Forest Rail- way. To a newcomer, it might look much the same as any other night market, but Malaysian blogger “KJ” of Alwaystrav- elicious.com knows better. She says some of the vendors have been around for 50 years and recommends blanched prawns with five spices, oysters, wild boar sausage, duck wraps, and honey aiyu (ice jelly made from the creeping fig). Readers will have divined by now that Taiwanese love night markets. However, with local tourism set for a big rebound in the following months and possibly years, new favorite destinations and leisure PHOTO: MARTTI CHEN experiences are likely to emerge, hopefully Above, seafood at Chiayi's Budai Port; Below, crowds descend on Keelung during creating a new golden period for domestic Tomb Sweeping Festival weekend. travel.

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Fighting Lung Cancer in Taiwan Requires Reform

ung cancer is the deadliest form lung cancer mortality rate, specialists of cancer in Taiwan. More than have urged the government to adopt a L 9,700 Taiwanese die from the comprehensive new strategy. According disease in 2018, yet Taiwan still struggles to Prof. Tsai Chun-ming, a consultant to reduce the mortality rate from this physician in Taipei Veterans General devastating illness. In fact, the Executive Hospital’s Department of Oncology, such Yuan’s Golden Ten-Year Plan, launched a strategy should incorporate prevention, in 2010, aimed to decrease Taiwan’s screening and early diagnosis, and standardized cancer mortality rates by accurate treatment. 20%, but by 2019 that rate had dropped The first step in carrying out such by only 7.8%, well short of the goal. a strategy should be to form a cross- To more effectively decrease the ministerial lung cancer control task force, which would serve as a national discussion platform for lung cancer prevention and care, says Dr. Wang Cheng-hsu of the Hematology-Oncology Department at standards and be based on scientific Chang Gung Memorial Hospital. Wang evidence. He says that indicators such as serves concurrently as chairman of the “progression-free survival” (e.g. target Hope Foundation for Cancer Care, a therapy) and “overall survival” (e.g. non-profit patient advocacy group in oncology immunotherapy) could serve as Taiwan. the priority criteria for clinical medication In terms of lung cancer screening, the and reimbursement. low-dose CT scan (LDCT) is a widely However, warns Tsai, the National discussed tool. However, there is an Health Insurance program’s finances are ongoing debate over the cost-effectiveness presently in deficit, and the increasing of LDCT, and it is now mostly used cost of treatment puts the government for heavy smokers. Wang adds that it in a tough position when it comes to carries the risk of false positives and securing sufficient budget for new drugs. overdiagnosis. Due to insufficient budgetary allocation, The Taiwan government is currently reimbursement criteria in Taiwan is Prof. Tsai Chun-ming conducting a large-scale survey on relatively strict. Additionally, although a whether LDCT can be used to screen copayment system exists, it does not cover non-smokers, and the results of this survey patients with major illnesses like lung are expected to be released next year. Tsai cancer, which precludes such patients from and Wang say they hope that this effort early access to innovative treatments. will result in localized clinical consensus “The current NHI system cannot guidelines for Taiwan. meet the rising cost of treatment, and it In addition, the two doctors agree that lacks a fast-track review mechanism for the government needs to allocate sufficient innovative, life-saving medicines.” says resources for innovative treatments, Wang of the Hope Foundation. Wang’s such as targeted therapy and oncology suggestion is to calculate NHI premiums immunotherapy. These treatments, they based on gross household income, rather argue, are highly cost-effective, have than on individual – the current formula. demonstrated good clinical efficacy, and “Such a system would be fairer and more shown promise in prolonging the life of just,” says Wang. “It would allow the patients. NHI to continue operating in perpetuity Tsai emphasizes that reimbursement and provide access to new medicines for criteria for lung cancer treatment in those that need them.” Dr. Wang Cheng-hsu Taiwan should align with international Similarly, patients’ voices should be

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included as much as possible in decision making, especially where it concerns the type of treatment being provided. In the past, doctors called the shots on pretty much everything related to a patient’s care, but now shared decision-making is increasingly becoming the norm in hospitals worldwide. 000 The NHI Administration has caught on to the trend, creating a platform for collecting patient feedback and allowing patients to join the 000 meetings of its Pharmaceutical Benefits 00 and Reimbursement Scheme Joint 0 Committee. But Wang says the feedback collected on the platform is still not well-reflected in policy decisions, and patient participation in the meetings is limited to observer status. Lung cancer patients should be empowered with the knowledge of all available treatment options to enable them to take a more active role in their battle against cancer. In the meantime, Wang emphasizes that psychological health services should also be included in any future strategy and diagnostic guidelines. Doing so would provide cancer patients and their families with significant emotional support and help them with ultimately achieving better outcomes. [ The information source is MSD ]

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MSD lung cancer.indd 25 2020/7/2 下午5:28 FISHING VILLAGES

aiwan’s spectacular mountain scen- ery is widely appreciated. But with the exception of a few places in the northT and the east, the island’s coastline OYSTER SHELLS AND doesn’t receive a great deal of admiration. Much of the seashore is flat, hot, and surprisingly distant from urban centers. Of BREAKWATERS: major cities, only Keelung and Kaohsiung show real maritime character. It is as if, in their eagerness to convert untilled land TAIWAN’S FISHING into rice fields, most of the Fujianese and Hakka migrants who reached the island during the Qing Dynasty turned their VILLAGES backs on the ocean as soon as they disem- barked. The Han pioneers who arrived before Fresh seafood with a side of history and local the Dutch occupation (1624-1662) were mainly seafarers, and few of them regarded customs is served up in sleepy hamlets around Taiwan as a permanent home. They repeat- Taiwan’s coastline. edly crossed the Taiwan Strait to trade with the island’s indigenous inhabitants, engage in piracy, or pursue schools of grey mullet. For at least 400 years, gourmets in China BY STEVEN CROOK (until 1949) and Taiwan (since the late Qing era) have been paying good prices for mullet roe sourced from spawning grounds off the island’s southwestern coast.

A fishing vessel equipped with powerful lights for catching squid, left, and an oyster

farmer at work at Wanggong, right. PHOTOS: STEVEN CROOK

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Many of the earliest Han settlements still exist, albeit under different names or subsumed by newer communities. Qihou () at the northern end of Qijin Island () in Kaohsiung was one of the first places occupied year-round. In the alley- ways, you can still find houses made of coral, granite, or wood. But it’s no longer a true fishing village; Qijin’s trawlers now moor 3.5 kilometers away, near the YM Museum of Marine Exploration Kaohsiung (). Other fishing villages with almost as much history have been swept from the map. Hongmaogang () was leveled in 2007 to make way for the Port of Kao- hsiung Intercontinental Container Termi- nal. On a tiny sliver of land set aside for the Hongmaogang Cultural Park ( ), visitors can get an idea of just how characterful that village was. Few of Taiwan’s fishing communities are as picturesque as old Hongmaogang – but this does not stop droves of Taipei resi- Boats moored in the turquoise water of Xinlan, a fishing village in Taitung County

dents from spending an hour in their cars on Taiwan's southeastern coast. PHOTO: JOHN GROOT

to get to Fuji Fishing Harbor () in New Taipei’s Shimen District () or to Zhuwei (), which is close to Taiwan ment are based. Taiwan ranks first in the Taoyuan International Airport. world for Pacific saury production, second They go because they love seafood. for tuna, and third for squid. Some of this They understand that the catch begins seafood is exported, but much of it goes to deteriorate the moment it is taken through the market adjacent to Qianzhen from the ocean, and they believe that no- Fishing Port. The market is at its busiest frills harborside eateries offer superior between 3 a.m. and 5 a.m. value compared to swankier downtown At the other end of the spectrum is establishments. Rather than keep fish and Xinlan () in Taitung County’s Donghe crustaceans alive in aquarium-type tanks, Township (). “Xinlan is a sleepy many of these places display the day’s little place with the most turquoise water culinary prospects outdoors in plastic tubs I’ve ever seen in Taiwan,” says John Groot, linked by hoses. a Canadian who has walked approximately Getting food out of the sea and into 1,200 kilometers all the way around Tai- those tubs is far from simple, and at busier wan in stretches over several years. Groot fishing ports casual visitors are likely to describes Xinlan as “flanked by beauti- witness boats being repainted, nets being ful white sand beaches and adorned with repaired and folded, and other ancillary coconut palms.” work. You do not have to be a seafood afi- In terms of fleet size and volumes han- cionado to find such sights engrossing. dled, Yilan County’s leading fishing center According to the Council of Agricul- is Nanfangao (). However, Daxi ( ture’s Fisheries Agency, there are 225 ) in the county’s Toucheng Township ( fishing harbors in Taiwan and its outlying ) made a more positive impression on islands, and they vary massively in size and Groot during his trek. activity. “Daxi’s fishing harbor is at its best Qianzhen Fishing Port () in when ships are unloading fish during Kaohsiung, a key facility for the oceanic market hours,” he says. “It’s lively, merry fishing industry, is where large vessels fitted chaos: boats docking, hoisting cargoes of with cutting-edge fish-tracking technology seafood from shrimp to sharks – onto the and ultra-low temperature freezing equip- quay, vendors grabbing them and setting

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up stalls, buyers buying, men and women single-story home at 30 Chikan West Road. actually built in the 1950s as a watchtower. calling out loudly, fish being hacked up on If you ask a local person how to get to The “lighthouse” is popular with tour- the cement floor and put into tubs of ice. Chikan Liu Family Old House ( ists, but Kezailiao’s most Instagrammed It’s great fun to see!” ), you will be directed to number 30, spot is just outside the post office. Atop the Similar scenes can be enjoyed at Kezai- not number 82. mailboxes, cute yellow and pink fiberglass liao (), a 20-minute drive north of Even though it is not open to the pub- octopi wearing mail carriers’ caps beckon the Kaohsiung High-Speed Railway Sta- lic, from the street you should be able to passersby. tion. Whenever a fishing boat sails into the to see the combination of Western and In recent years, Wanggong Fishing Port small harbor, egrets take up position on the Chinese architectural styles that makes () in Changhua County has been stern and wait for bycatch to be thrown this well-preserved 1920s building quite heavily promoted by both the local gov- over the side. special. The owner may let you into the ernment and the Tourism Bureau. Thanks For very young visitors, the harborside courtyard, from which you can appreciate to Expressway 61 and regular buses from ice factory is perhaps the greatest attrac- the unusual and elegant porte-cochère or Taichung and Lukang, getting there is quite tion. Workers drag meter-long cuboids of covered entranceway. straightforward. ice from within and push them onto a spe- As in many other places in Taiwan, the The Royal Arch Bridge, a government- cial lift. These blocks are then tipped one at seashore here is buried beneath hundreds funded addition to the landscape, is a good a time into a crusher that generates a fright- of interlocked concrete tetrapods. These spot from which to enjoy the sunset. Look- ening amount of noise. Several seconds ugly objects are said to reduce the destruc- ing north from the mouth of Hougang later, pieces of frozen water – some as small tive force of waves by causing water to Creek () directly south of the bridge, as coins, some as big as golf balls – begin to flow around them, rather than battering the docks and Fangyuan Lighthouse ( fly out of a chute. In the process, the man against them, but some experts think they ) dominate the foreground. Farther whose job it is to swap tubs as they fill up do more harm than good. in the distance are oyster beds, clusters of gets showered with flecks of ice. Right by the sea, what is misleadingly mangroves, and wind turbines. Kezailiao’s fish market has been given called Chikan Lighthouse () has The 37-year-old beacon might lack a its own building within meters of the dock. been redecorated. If it looks a good bit long history, but it is the country’s tallest The vendors here sell both ready-to-eat shorter than other lighthouses around lighthouse. The 37.4-meter-tall concrete items and fresh seafood you can take home Taiwan’s coast, there is a good reason: it tower has a tapering octagonal shape and and cook. The best time to come is late was never a lighthouse. In the past, a bea- vertical black-and-white striped exterior. morning to early afternoon on weekends. con (like those at the end of breakwaters) The grounds – but not the tower itself – are shone here, but this concrete cylinder was open to the public. Remnants of the past

Tourists more interested in glimpsing the past than satisfying their stomachs should head 1.5 kilometers north to the cluster of old houses that surrounds Chikan Ancient Well (), said to have been used by local families since before 1740. Despite being less than 100 meters from the Taiwan Strait, it was appreciated as a source of unusually clean water. Much of the neighborhood is in ruins, and its forlorn yet photogenic appearance reminds many visitors of semi-abandoned villages in Penghu County. Some buildings have walls made of coral rag or mud bricks covered with square tiles. Among the homes that predate World War II, only one has more than a single story. Catastrophic cracking afflicts this empty wreck, located at 82 Chikan West Road. The crest at top-center on the facade bears the surname Liu (). The Liu clan were (and may still be) an important family hereabouts, judging not only by the height of this building, but A mixture of Western and Chinese architectural styles are on display at the Chikan

also by the grandeur of the three-sided, Liu Family Old House in Kezailiao, near Kaohsiung. PHOTO: STEVEN CROOK

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From the seawall between the light- house and the Taiwan Strait, you may well see oyster farmers coming and going, driving modified three-wheeled tractors to reach the bamboo stakes on which they raise the crustaceans. Oyster cultivation methods have not changed much since 1944, when a report on Taiwan’s fishing industry was prepared for the U.S. Navy, which was then contemplating invading and occupying Taiwan. According to the report, Taiwanese oyster farmers use “split bamboo stakes from 1 to 3 feet in length” for collection. “When the tide brings in oyster larvae, they become attached to old shells placed on the stakes. Nourished by microscopic creatures carried with every tide, the oys- ters grow until [they reach maturity] after 4 or 5 months.” In Wanggong, oyster shucking is a cot- tage industry. Outside every third house, it seems, are baskets of empty shells. What to do with all these shells is a real problem, as Taiwan produces about 160,000 tonnes of Local Wanggong residents shuck oysters, the empty shells of which can be used to them each year. make fertilizer or a non-active ingredient in pills. PHOTO: STEVEN CROOK In the old days, oyster-shell ash was used as cement; not until the 1970s was it totally replaced by lime-based cements. buoys that worked themselves loose, plas- arguing that, due to alterations and recon- Ground shells contain a small amount tic bottles, and other detritus. struction, the houses and windbreak walls of nitrogen, and so can be used as fertil- Yet visitors and residents have cer- do not retain their original appearance, izer, but a far more lucrative solution has tainly made matters worse, and not just and that the village is not unique. been identified by the Taiwan Sugar Corp. by dropping trash. Coastal Taiwan has The controversy has prompted writ- working with the Industrial Technol- suffered its share of ugly architecture and ers and activists to take a closer interest ogy Research Institute. Later this year, a overbuilding. Some fear that the fishing in Magang. Writing in May 2019, Hsu purpose-built facility will begin extracting villages of Magang () and Maoao ( Hsiang-pi was intrigued by the village’s calcium carbonate from discarded shells ) in New Taipei City’s Gongliao District gender division of labor: “Adult men are for sale to pharmaceutical companies for will soon lose their character if develop- responsible for fishing, while women most- use as a non-active ingredient in pills. ers’ plans to build tourist facilities are ly pick sea vegetables. Because these sea The Taisugar website, which describes the allowed to proceed. vegetables grow at some depth, the women venture as a “circular economy” project, Magang is the country’s easternmost must be able to dive to get them…Those says the plant will be able to handle up to fishing village, while Maoao appears on who lack diving skills can only purchase 49,500 tonnes of shells annually. a 2012 list of “Charming Fishing Har- and process the sea vegetables the divers bors” published on the Fisheries Agency bring back.” Contemplating preservation website. Others nominated by the agency Among traditional foodways you might include Badouzi () in Keelung, the see in Magang are the harvesting of lob- If some of Taiwan’s fishing villages look sizable town of Budai () in Chiayi sters and sea urchins, and the sun-bleach- drab and shabby, local weather and ocean County, Xuhai () in the part of Ping- ing of umutgasari (Gelidium amansii, a red conditions are partly to blame. Strong, tung County that faces the Pacific, and algae found throughout Northeast Asia). salt-bearing winds corrode metal, tear out Taoyuan’s Zhuwei. To keep it from spoiling and to rid it of its woodwork, and inhibit tree growth. The Both Magang and Maoao have a num- fishy smell, umutgasari must be dried very currents that used to propel unmanned ber of distinctive Qing-era stone houses. soon after harvesting. wangchuan (“kings’ ships” or plague Last year, to thwart development plans, Depending on when you visit, you may boats) across the Taiwan Strait – giving rise some Magang residents sought conserva- find a vendor who turns local umutgasari to the Wang Ye cult of burning a replica tion status for these antique dwellings. into an agar-type dessert jelly. If you do, boat to ward off disease – now ensure that However, a New Taipei City government consider showing your support for tradi- the coastline is littered with styrofoam committee turned down their application, tion by buying a bowl or two.

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A Trip Back in Time on Taiwan’s Historic Trails

A local NGO is working to restore an island-wide network of hiking trails and walking paths that offer visitors a peek into Taiwan’s past.

BY DINAH GARDNER

PHOTOS BY SERGIO PALMA

TRAIL RESTORATION

e would have walked straight hungry ghosts in check. past without noticing them but These mortuary jars, now well over 100 for the hiker just ahead who years old, are just one example of the many hadW stopped to take a closer look. There, historical and cultural artefacts that can be tucked away under a rocky overhang, just found along a network of old trails – some a few minutes from the trailhead, were dating back to the 18th century. Called dozens of giant earthenware jars, stacked national greenways, they are gradually in disarray. Each about knee-high, they being restored across the island. The proj- were blotched, mottled with age, and laced ect is the brainchild of Taipei-based NGO with cracks. Some jars were broken, oth- Taiwan Thousand Miles Trail Association ers tilted on their sides. They looked like (TMI Trail), which is working with local old wine vessels, but they turned out to be governments in each area to carry out its something quite different. work. The long-term plan is to complete These jars were made for storing the restoration of seven trails – composed human bones. of many linked, long-distance hiking paths In Taiwanese folk religion, dead bodies and bikeways – stretching a total 3,000 are a dangerous source of malicious spirits kilometers. if they are not given a proper burial along The objective is to help bring people with the attendant worship of the right closer to the past. “We want these seven deities. When waves of new settlers arrived greenways not only to get more people from China in the 19th century, many died hiking but also to get them more involved in skirmishes, others from disease, and they in history,” TMI Trail Executive Director had no family or friends to conduct the Chou Sheng-hsin told Taiwan Business proper rites. When locals stumbled across TOPICS. “We want to preserve these old their remains, they would store the bones trails and help people understand their in jars and place them in stone shrines built homeland stories by walking them.” for a family of gods called Youyinggong The idea is to create something like Gushing waterfalls and caves formed over millennia by erosion are some of the sights (). Worshipping these gods kept the the UNESCO-listed Camino de Santiago available along the newly restored trails.

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in Europe, a massive network of routes across the continent that leads pilgrims to the shrine of Saint James in northwestern Spain. Alternatively, it can be viewed as a walking version of the round-the-island cycle trip (huandao, ) popular with domestic and international tourists here in Taiwan. Visitors to the trails are treated to sights of natural beauty such as rice terraces, tea plantations, ocean coastline, rivers, lakes, and forest. In addition, paths are dotted with historical landmarks, such as Qing Dynasty steles (stone tablets carved with calligraphy), Japanese-era homes and dor- mitories, old stone bridges, temples, scores of shrines to the earth god (Tudigong), dis- used train tracks, and canals. The organization began researching and planning possible trails back in 2006. So far, three greenways are more or less complete, with the other four still being rehabilitated. The first to be finished was the green- way made up of the Tamsui-Kavalan His- torical and Cultural Trails, which cover 274 kilometers running from southern Taipei, Keelung, and eastern New Taipei City to various locations along the coast

SEVEN NATIONAL GREENWAYS

These feet were made for walking

If you’re more of an armchair hiker, perhaps a new book by longtime Canadian expat John Groot, Taiwanese Feet: My Walk Around Taiwan, is more your thing. Groot took eight years to walk around the island (from Tamsui to Tamsui) in bite-sized fragments during holidays and weekends, traveling clockwise. A couple of his walks on the east coast are also historical, including the Alangyi Old Trail in southeastern Tai- wan that was originally trodden by people from the Paiwan indigenous group many hundreds of years ago. The table of contents promises intense rambling, shipwrecks, swamps, gangsters, and pollution. And that’s all without leaving your living room.

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Tamsui-Kavalan Trails

JINZIBEI TRAIL SOURCE: TMI TRAIL

of Yilan County. They originally went all the way back to the time of the dinosaurs. that begins from Nuannuan in Keelung. the way from Tamsui to Yilan (linking the That’s about as historical as you can get! You can find them along the Nuandong Western Pacific Ocean and Taiwan Strait) The fern itself is common in this part of Valley Trail, a beautiful loop that takes and so are sometimes referred to as the northern Taiwan. The Raknus Selu logo is in chuckling streams, mountain forests, Danlan Old Trails (). the leaf of a camphor tree (Raknus means ribbons of waterfalls, sheer-sided orange- The second greenway, which Chou says camphor in the language of the Atayal and-gray cliffs, and riverbeds eroded to a is “pretty much” completed, is the Raknus indigenous group), while the Mountains to breathtaking smoothness. Selu Trail. A shade shorter at 270 kilome- Sea graphic has a silhouette of a mountain This great half-day and fairly easy trek ters, it snakes southwards from Taoyuan that morphs into a river. starts at Nuandong Canyon (). through Hsinchu and Miaoli before ending For Taipei dwellers, the Tamsui- Take the train to Nuannuan station and at Taichung. The bulk of the work is also Kavalan greenway is the most accessible, either wait for the 603 bus (you’ll be lucky complete on the Mountains to Sea Nation- and one of its trails could easily be tackled if one comes every hour) or hop in an Uber al Greenway, a combination of walkways in a half-day or full-day trip. There are (less than NT$200) to the canyon. After and bikeways that runs 177 kilometers three main routes – northern, middle, and a 2-kilometer-walk through gorgeous for- from Taijiang National Park (sometimes southern. The northern trails, made in the est, past the bone jars and a steppingstone called “Taiwan’s Little Amazon”) in Tai- 18th century to transport official docu- crossing of an icy-cold river, you’ll reach nan all the way to Yushan National Park, ments and government officers, are the sleepy Dajing Farm, picture perfect for the country’s highest peak at just under oldest. The paths are generally a bit wider a picnic. The trail then turns into a road 4,000 meters. TMI Trail is still working than the other trails in this region in order that is thankfully quiet of traffic. It switch- with local authorities to put up trail signs to accommodate the sedan chairs used to backs up a hill for about 20 minutes until and finish some minor restoration work transport local dignitaries. reaching the Nuandong Historic Trail ( and other trekking facilities. While the The middle trails were forged by ordi- ). focus is on walking trails, bikeways are nary folk for everyday travel between This stretch is tougher. It’s a steep climb being created in places where urbaniza- settlements, while the southern trails up packed-earth steps, boarded with wood tion has interrupted the integrity of the old wind through tea plantations. In former or cut stones, that ascend seemingly for- paths with asphalt roads. times, this latter journey was used to ever, but more like a sweaty 40 minutes. TMI Trail has devised a unique logo for transport tea to the Tamsui River port at While there are no great views at the top, each of the greenways. The Tamsui-Kava- Dadaocheng for export overseas. Pinglin, a you’ll be rewarded with a rest stop that has lan Trails are marked by an eight-pointed, famous tea-growing district even today, lies been thoughtfully stocked with free bottled fan-shaped leaf. It represents the coupled along the route. drinking water. The descent takes you by dipteris – a flamboyant fern that has The bone jars that intrigued us that day giant ferns as well as bamboo thickets existed for more than 200 million years, all were on the first stretch of the middle path that cause the wind to whistle, then over

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humped bridges before ending up by an information on these treks can be found on “It’s a slow process,” says Chou. One abandoned railway track. the (Chinese-language) site Hiking Note- six-kilometer section on the Tamsui-Kava- The day we went, a grassy opening book (). Otherwise, you can con- lan trail took the organization three years bounded by a curve in the tracks seemed tact TMI Trail by email to ask for advice to finish with volunteers. like an ideal place to rest before the final (they have English-speaking staff). Most The bulk of the restoration work, how- 10-minute stretch into the historic town of of the trails are not too arduous, but Chou ever, is carried out by local governments in Shifen. Four Formosan Magpies, shimmer- Sheng-hsin advises carrying lots of water consultation with TMI Trail. With the help ing electric blue in the sunshine, swooped and wearing decent walking shoes and a of the government’s greater resources, one between trees, flouncing their lustrous tail hat to protect you from the sun. 45-kilometer section of the Raknus Selu feathers. At Shifen, avoid the temptation trail was completed in eight years. to launch a lantern that will only get stuck Crafting the past TMI Trail are responsible for the in a tree and litter the landscape, and catch concept, researching and surveying trails the Pingxi tourist train back to Taipei. TMI Trail uses traditional restoration – trawling through historical records, con- There are dozens of other hikes that are methods for as much of the trail network ducting interviews, and even finding the also not too taxing but have great cultural as possible. The organization seeks out treks themselves if they have become over- significance. The Jinzibei Historical Trail skilled craftspeople to learn their techniques grown and disused. The final stage is lob- on the Tamsui-Kavalan northern route, and passes them on via their own courses. bying local governments to take the work for example, is a fairytale walk through TMI Trail also organizes volunteer pro- on board, including helping to restore, put the woods that climb upwards to Jinzibei grams to help rebuild some sections, using up signage, and market the walks. “In the (, “Golden Character Tablet”). Its whatever materials are on hand locally. “If end it’s a partnership between government surface is inscribed with a poem on stone there’s stone around, we use stone. If trees and local communities,” said Chou. But at in wobbly calligraphy written by Qing have fallen nearby, we’ll use the wood or the heart of the work is linking these trails Dynasty Garrison Commander Liu Ming- bamboo,” Chou says. Stones used to make into a whole – an extended cultural and deng, describing how tortuous the path border walls or steps are shaved down until historical journey. was back in the 1860s. The trail begins at they are the right shape – and that takes And it is this concept that elevates these the old mining town of Houtong – famous skill. “Every trail has come from people hikes into something much more than for its many cats – in New Taipei City (eas- and connects with people,” she says. just a hike. The experience carries with ily reached by train) and ends at Mudan, The difference is obvious. The tradi- it a taste of the past and raises questions another charming little town that also has tional paths blend in more smoothly with too. Could those bone jars be a source of a train connection back to the capital. their surroundings and are actually more hungry ghosts today with no one to make The Yangtingli Historical Trail from comfortable to hike. The final downhill offerings? Chou said they are most likely Jimuling to Datielao on the northern route section of the Nuandong Historic Trail was empty; the local government probably bur- rewards hikers with views of the Western constructed in modern times but was not ied the bones in a public cemetery to dispel Pacific Ocean, while the Paoma Historic part of this restoration project. It’s com- fears they’d be haunted and left the jars Trail on the southern route is an easy stroll posed of tiers of broad concrete steps. Not stacked there as a memory of former times. through woodland. It offers a view of Tur- only are they ugly, they are actually harder But I for one am not brave enough to tle Island in the distance and the promise of to walk on as they jar the feet. peek inside to check. a soak in a hot spring at Jiaoxi at the end. Jaunts along the Raknus Selu greenway, while still possible as a day trip from Tai- pei, are far away enough that they might warrant an overnight stay. The entrance to the Dunan Historical Trail () in Hsinchu County’s Guanxi Township was only just discovered recently. Left unused for more than 80 years. it was restored by volunteers. The trail, an easy one kilome- ter, goes deep in the forest, passing Tung trees that flower in soft white and ending at an old bridge that marks the spot where a small wharf used to be. At the entrance to the trail stands Lo House (), an old gated Hakka schoolhouse that now operates as a guesthouse. TMI Trail has an overview of the gre- enways and introductions to some of the Giant earthenware jars along the Nuandong Historic Trail near Keelung once con- hikes on its website, but more detailed tained the bones of dead settlers from the 19th century.

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Sun and Southern Hospitality in Laid-back Kaohsiung

New cultural attractions combine with traditional sights to make a trip down south a refreshing change of pace for residents of the north.

STORY AND PHOTOS BY LOUISE WATT

or many expats, moving to Taipei and possibly a dinner invitation. The pagodas sit on the edge of Lotus means a slower pace of life. No Those of us who don’t have the flex- Lake, a stunning expanse of water that is rush-hour jostling on sidewalks or in ibility to move to Kaohsiung can still at its most picturesque when it is reflecting Fthe subway, patient pedestrians waiting at experience the warm hospitality of the the late afternoon sun or evening lights. It the side of empty roads for a green light to southern Taiwanese for a few days. A city is well worth a walk or cycle around – a lei- cross the street, and cycle paths for gentle of warmer, sunnier climes is waiting – and surely stroll will take a little under an hour, meanders along the river. without Taipei’s frequent rain (during not counting time for visiting the pagodas But for residents of Kaohsiung, Taipei Kaohsiung’s rainy season, a heavy shower and other temples that dot the lake. life means living in the “too fast” lane will usually clear up within half an hour). These include Taiwan’s largest Confu- – too competitive, too highly pressured. Let’s explore. cius Temple (open Tuesday to Sunday from Much better to live in the South, where the 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.) on the north bank of the emphasis is less on competing and much Dragon And Tiger lake. The temple was built in 1976 when more on eating and otherwise enjoying life. the city’s original homage to the famous Networks in Kaohsiung tend to be Hop off the high-speed rail at Zuoying teacher-philosopher, a structure dating more close-knit. Here cousins and class- station and you’re already close to one of back to 1684, had fallen into disrepair. The mates from years earlier are still near Kaohsiung’s most striking landmarks – the main Ta Cheng Palace hall is modeled on enough for frequent get-togethers over Dragon and Tiger Pagodas () (open the one in Confucius’s hometown of Qufu ginger duck soup and beer. Kaohsiung every day from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m.), seven- in Shandong province. Inside, you can sol- residents are also highly welcoming, espe- story yellow towers guarded by a large emnly and silently recite a wish to the great cially toward foreigners. If you speak a painted dragon and tiger. Walk through philosopher and hang up a prayer card on little Mandarin, people will be pleasantly the mouth of the dragon to enter and out a special board for maximum effect. astonished. If you utter a few words of through the mouth of the tiger to turn bad For an air-conditioned view of the lake, Taiwanese, you will have a friend for life – luck into good fortune. the Panna Cotta coffee shop next to the

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Confucius Temple serves Taiwan Alishan americanos and café lattes among other drinks and food.

River Of Love

Local residents love to say that it is much easier to get around in Kaohsiung than in Taipei, but this is only true if you have a car or motorbike. If you rely on public transport, there are just two subway lines, fed by a bus network. If you enjoy seeing the sites on foot, Kaohsiung may not be to your liking. Sidewalks are frequently the realm of parked motorbikes, cars, and large potted plants. Bicycle-sharing stations are not as common as in Taipei, and you rarely see people cycling. But if you do fancy walking or cycling A view of Kaohsiung Harbor from the former British Consulate. in the city center, a meander along part of the Love River () is a good place an abandoned warehouse area has been der around the leafy campus, whose sights to start. The Love River is to Kaohsiung converted into a collection of art galleries, include a villa where Chiang Kai-shek what the Thames is to London or the museums, and quirky stores. It also has stayed when he visited the south. Today the Seine to Paris, given its purported roman- the VR Film Lab, where you can watch building is an arts and culture exhibition tic associations. It runs through the city, 360-degree award-winning virtual reality center, but relics remain, including Chi- and the once badly polluted river has movies, or have fun with a friend in an ang’s 1949 Packard Eight car. been cleaned up – as well as spruced up in interactive area flying (virtually) through On the west side of the campus is some- recent years with green spaces and cafes the air on dinosaurs. No upper age limit, thing you don’t normally see at a univer- alongside it. There are daytime and eve- fortunately. sity: a beach, with clear water and coral ning boat and gondola rides. reefs. In the evening, students and couples A good walking-tour trail starts at the University Beach head to the black sandy beach to watch the Love Boat ferry stop next to the 228 Peace sun set. No swimming allowed. Memorial Park ( Another good place for a walk is ). Proceed south past the Kaohsiung National Sun Yat-Sen University, which Bay Area Film Archive, which regularly shows mov- can be conveniently accessed from the city ies, and follow the river around to the Pier center by means of a tunnel ( Further to the south in Sizihwan Bay 2 Arts Center (). What was ) through a mountain. Anyone can wan- () is the former British Consulate at

The Dragon and Tiger Pagodas at Lotus Lake near Zuoying HSR station, left, and the old Consul's Residence in Sizihwan.

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down to National Sun Yat-Sen University from here via Wanshou Road. On another part of the mountain known as Chaishan () is Shanhai Temple (), originally built to thank a god for watching over the worshippers in the mountains () and at sea (). It was reconstructed in the 1980s. You can drive or ride a motorbike up Chaishan Road to get to the temple, where there is free parking. A steep road down to the right of the temple leads to restaurants and coffee shops where you can look out to sea and contemplate life, as well as steps down to a small black sandy beach if you’re feeling more energetic.

One of the views from Chaishan mountain, not far from Shanhai Temple.

Takow (), built ride to Cijin Island (), a small and in 1879 to expand the country’s interests narrow island that is worth a day or half- in Taiwan. The office, at the foot of a hill day trip. Besides the picturesque market facing the port, was closed to the public selling all kinds of dried fish, the sights for a century but now houses an exhibit include the Cijin Bathing Beach ( explaining its history, assisted by old pho- ), Cihou Fort () and Cihou tographs and newspapers. Takow (literally Lighthouse (), from which there “beat the dog,” probably of aboriginal are great views of the island and Kaohsi- derivation) was the name of the city for ung’s harbor. In addition to seafood, try most of its history. the traditional southern Taiwanese dish A short trail up the hill leads to the “cut tomato” (), whose special fea- onetime Consul’s Residence, a red-brick ture is a dip made with a thick soy sauce, building with a wooden veranda where he sugar, and ginger paste. It is available in a entertained guests. To the east you can see number of restaurants on Miaoqian Road views of downtown Kaohsiung and the 85 (), which is also bursting with Sky Tower skyscraper landmark, and to the snack stalls. west the Taiwan Strait. Before or after the ferry ride, enjoy a Inside is a café serving English After- heaping plate of sliced mango or other fruit noon Tea for NT$630. While it doesn’t over shaved ice at one of the many snack particularly resemble a traditional English shops in the neighborhood. afternoon tea, to get a table on weekends and holidays you may have to queue, Mountain Sights which is very British. Try to get a table on the balcony facing the west so you can Longevity Mountain (Shoushan) ( watch the sun set over the Taiwan Strait. ) has various hiking trails, temples, and The consulate is open seven days a week a zoo. For one of the best views, ask a taxi from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.; closed for mainte- driver to take you up to the Martyrs Shrine nance the third Monday of each month. (), and then walk down the steps in Close by is the Gushan Ferry Pier ( front to look out across the harbor toward ), where you can take a short Cijin Island and the sea. You can head

Buddhist icons inside a room in Longquan Temple. The room is designed to look like the cave in which a stalagmite resembling Bodhisattva Guanyin (top) was found.

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Cultural Ambitions

In recent years, Kaohsiung has been trying to throw off its image as a polluted industrial city and become a regional mag- net for culture-lovers. One of its crowning developments is the National Kaohsiung Theater for the Arts (Weiwuying) ( ), a massive structure surrounded by parkland that for years was blocked off by the military. The inside plaza area has taken the thick trunks of banyan trees as inspiration, but it also feels a little like a spaceship. Weiwuying performances include music, drama, and dance. In the evenings, free movies are sometimes projected onto the structure itself, with deckchairs and headphones A stallholder grills sausages at Liuhe Night Market provided. Construction continues on other major cultural projects. The Kaohsiung Music Unexpectedly, one of the best places to in a second-floor room designed to look Center () on the banks see some contemporary art in Kaohsiung like a cave. The temple is open every day of the Love River is expected to open is in a metro station. The hub of Kaohsi- from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monkeys often roam late this year. It aims to attract big-name ung’s two lines, Formosa Boulevard Station around and some doors have latches to domestic and international pop acts, and (), offers a kaleidoscope of colors stop them from entering. its indoor and outdoor spaces are designed known as the Dome of Light. The ceiling to address Taiwan’s lack of medium-sized mural on level B1 has 4,500 glass panels. Eating venues for musicians. It was designed by the same artist who cre- The Kaohsiung Museum of Fine Arts ated a glass dome for Rome’s Basilica of St. Make the most of the fresh fruit on sale () is undergoing a major Mary of the Angels and the Martyrs. from Kaohsiung and surrounding rural refurbishment project and will have no areas, including papaya, lychees, and “Jap- exhibitions until January 2021. Sweet History anese” bananas (the smaller ones). The oldest and largest night market Taiwan’s first modern sugar-processing in Kaohsiung is Liuhe (), in the plant, the Ciaotou Sugar Factory ( center of the city next to the Formosa Bou- ), opened in 1902 and churned out levard metro station. products for almost 100 years. Now it is a Even if you’re not usually a fan of hot- museum where you can see inside the old pot, try the sour cabbage hotpot at Liu’s factory and wander among Japanese-style restaurant () (9 offices and residences, as well as the trains Jieshou Road, Zuoying, that used to carry sugar cane. There is an 9, with six other branches around the art area and restaurants, and the site is a city). For Hakka food, head to good outdoor attraction for children. (54/1 Zhengyan Road, Lingya District, 541). If you crave Temple Cave American food, the Chicago pizzas at The- 303 Kitchen and Bar (422 Anji Street, Longquan Temple (), a Buddhist Zuoying, 422) have been temple at the foot of Shoushan Mountain, known to pull Taipei residents to Kaohsi- contains a hidden treasure. In 1974, when ung for the evening. workers from the Taiwan Cement Corpo- Finally, the city has many restaurants ration were quarrying in the mountain, specializing in ginger duck soup and ginger they found a cave considered to be more chicken soup, such as the open-air than a million years old. On entering, at 28 Wuqing 2nd Road ( they were astonished to see a stalagmite 28), where you can choose a that resembled the Bodhisattva Guanyin goji and date sauce and add tofu and veg- holding a baby. She is now to be found etables. With any luck, you will be taken in one of Longquan’s buildings, standing there by your new Kaohsiung friends.

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A Throwback to Taiwan’s Golden Age: A Trip to Jinguashi

STORY AND PHOTOS BY MATT FULCO

hundred years ago, Taiwan was a Just three kilometers away from Jiufen, Japanese colony with an ascendant Jinguashi seems a world apart. Its Gold gold-mining industry. When the Mining Museum, set up by the New Taipei JapaneseA colonial government established a City government in 2004, is integrated Top left: A view of Jinguashi and the Gold Mining Bureau, it divided the mining with well-preserved colonial Japanese Pacific Ocean from the town’s Shinto region in northern Taiwan into a western architecture and a Shinto Shrine, so that a Shrine. Above: Showa-era Japanese section, today’s Jiufen, and an eastern sec- visit to the town feels like a seamless step architecture in Jinguanshi, constructed tion, today’s Jinguashi. Both are now part back in time. circa 1920s. of Ruifang District in New Taipei City. Because the copper ore enargite was Of the two old gold-mining towns, also discovered at Jinguashi, both copper tonnes of gold, according to government Jiufen is better known as a tourist desti- and gold were mined there. It became Tai- data. Gold mining steadily declined there- nation. While scenic, Jiufen tends to get wan’s most prominent mine, and the Japan after, as rising costs limited profitability. overrun with visitors, especially the tacky Nippon Mining Co. built Asia’s largest The Taiwan Metals Mining Co., which “Old Street” crammed with food stalls and gold and copper refinery in the area. started mining gold in Jinguashi after souvenir shops. It’s not the place to go to Taiwan’s gold production peaked in Taiwan’s retrocession to the Republic of get a sense of Taiwan’s history as a gold 1938, in the twilight of the Japanese colo- China, finally shut down in 1987. producer or former Japanese colony. nial era. when Jinguashi produced 2,603 The Gold Mining Museum is worth

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exploring for anyone with even a faint interest in geology or Taiwan’s past as a gold manufacturer. On display are a wide variety of gold samples, including glitter- ing nuggets as well as many other rocks in which trace amounts of gold are present. In some of the samples displayed, the gold is invisible to the naked eye. That’s because ore grades of 30 parts per million are usually necessary for people to be able to see the precious metal without using a microscope. Gold in most mines is invis- ible, yet rocks containing more than one part per million of gold are considered worth mining. The best-known exhibit is a 220-kilo- gram gold bar that once held the Guinness record for the world’s largest pure gold ingot. It is indeed worth its weight in gold, The remains of the Jinguashi Shinto Shrine, also known as Ogon Shrine or approximately US$9 million. Gold Temple. During Taiwan Business TOPICS’ visit to the museum, numerous visitors renovation, while Jinguashi’s signature or Gold Temple. Vandals damaged the took the opportunity to touch the gold gilded frozen dessert has been put on ice. shrine in the post-war era, when anti- brick (the museum allows that) through When asked why the gold leaf-topped, Japanese sentiment ran high among some an opening in its display case. Those con- soft-serve ice cream is unavailable, an segments of Taiwan’s populace. Still, the cerned about hygiene may prefer to look attendant said that it was “too expensive” massive stone torii – the gate which in and not touch. and “sold poorly.” At NT$150, the gold shinto denotes a symbolic transition from A few caveats about the Gold Museum: ice cream was not a lot pricier than Häa- the ordinary to the sacred - remains intact. The Benshan No. 5 Tunnel, which is sup- gen-Dazs, but perhaps lacked the latter’s Pass through the gate and you will posed to give visitors a sense of miners’ brand cachet. reach the mountain’s peak. On a clear day, work environment, is currently closed for Of Jinguashi’s colonial Japanese build- standing amid the shrine’s ruins, you can ings, two are normally open to the public: look out on the town of Jinguashi nestled the Crown Prince chalet and the Four in the emerald hills below and beyond to Joined Japanese-Style Residences. The the Pacific Ocean glimmering azure. former was unfortunately closed during Before leaving Jinguashi, it’s worth TOPICS’ visit, ostensibly for renovation. checking out a shakuhachi performance The Japanese colonial authorities report- by virtuoso player Chou Sung-tsun who edly built the mansion to host then Crown plays under the trees on a set of abandoned Prince Hirohito (later Japan’s emperor) railroad tracks. Introduced from China to but he ultimately never made the trip to Japan in the seventh century, the shakuha- Jinguashi. chi is a bamboo flute traditionally used by The Four Connected Japanese-Style Zen Buddhist monks for meditation exer- Residences (mistranslated as “The Four cises. It is a versatile instrument though, Joined of Japanese-Style Residence”) is one and Chou delighted some young spectators of the few remaining buildings of its kind by playing “You Are My Sunshine” and in Taiwan. Constructed in the 1930s as a on request, the theme song to the popular dormitory for senior Japanese managers, Japanese cartoon “Doraemon.” it is a fine example of early Showa period Chou told TOPICS that he has been (1926-89) Japanese residential architecture. playing regularly in Jinguashi for the past The wooden structure and tatami flooring four years, making the journey from his were ordinary at the time, but their earthy home in Taipei’s Tianmu district. He clear- qualities seem extraordinary compared to ly has a passion for the shakuhachi - and the concrete, glass, and tile that dominate has even traveled to Osaka to participate in Taiwan’s architecture today. a concert of traditional Japanese music. Fit visitors to Jinguashi will want to “I don’t know exactly why I enjoy play- Virtuoso shakuhachi player Chou hike up the mountain to see the Jinguashi ing here so much,” he says. “I guess the Sung-tsun performs a traditional Jap- anese song. Shinto Shrine, also known as Ogon Shrine music just fits the scenery.”

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at up to NT$1,628 at the Brasserie restaurant buffet. Guest are welcome to use the "Safe Travel Hotel Voucher" or "Stimulus Voucher" for other consumptions. To broaden the content of the plan to simulate the experience of going on a cruise, the hotel is collaborating with HTC VIVE to incorporate its new VR video game system with table games and story castles to create an outstanding brand-new children’s game room. Every evening popular movies are shown by the rooftop pool, enabling hotel guests to take in the Taipei skyline while experiencing a “City and Star Theater.” At the buffet-style dessert bar, the food and beverage department has also prepared a wide variety of ice cream The Regent Taipei’s flavors, candy trolleys, and a healthy yogurt option for the children. “Summer Cruise Vacation” For the shopping and learning aspects of the “Summer Cruise Vacation” plan, the hotel has invited Room Discount Plan the Regent’s 32 Boutique brands to provide a “Shop Around the World Summer Academy.” The contents include forums with designers, guided tours of famous shops, instruction in fashion and style, shopping discounts, etc. In addition, the meticulously planned “Regent Family Academy” will offer guests nine different lessons, with an online learning option through channels on the TVs in their rooms. The topics include housekeeping techniques for folding towels, packing luggage

ith the first summer vacation “Mid-summer Cruise-style Vacation” since the outbreak of the experience from July 15 through August W coronavirus fast approaching 31. Stay at the hotel and enjoy the and with borders still not fully open, opportunity to eat, drink, play, relax, we can expect to see the phenomenon shop, and learn. For parties of two or of “revenge spending” to take hold. more adults, the package covering a To take advantage of this golden stay of three days and two nights starts opportunity to serve the domestic from NT$2,990 per adult per night, travel sector while enabling those who half price for children under 12 years can’t travel abroad to enjoy something of age. Reservations must be made similar to an international holiday, the before July 10. In addition, each room Regent Taipei is offering a discounted guest can enjoy a buffet dinner valued

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and making up beds; culinary arts families, we want to devote more time creations such as decorating cupcakes and money to meaningful things such as and mixing summer drinks; tours of spending time with family. The Regent the major attractions in a five-star hotel Taipei is taking this opportunity to and lessons in photographing them; combine the aspects of eating, drinking, English and Japanese songs and dances; recreation, shopping, and learning, so walking tours to explore urban culture that guests will use this chance to have a in the surrounding community, etc. We fun vacation. At the same time, they can invite guests of all ages to enjoy a family choose to read a series of educational lifestyle and create memories of an materials on family activities. We hope enjoyable summer. to help produce a quality lifestyle for “The epidemic has changed people’s families, showing our care for the lives and spending patterns,” Regent communities we live in. We also aim Taipei Managing Director Simon Wu to increase understanding of food points out in describing the motivation ingredients and food safety, as well as to for the “Summer Cruise Vacation” encourage learning and sharing culture, room discount plan. “As we pay more while using creativity to showcase the attention to our health and that of our good things in life.”

5 00

REGENT HOTEL TAIPEI Please contact the Regent at 2523-8000 for booking or No. 3, Lane 39, Zhongshan North Road, Section 2, Zhongshan District, Taipei 104 further information. 詳情或訂房請洽2523-8000轉訂房組

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chemically with venom? To bribe someone to take your comatose body to a hospital? To send to next of kin? “Because your finger or hand or leg or head is possibly going to swell up like a balloon, and you don’t really want it to be constricted by a ring or bracelet or watch,” explains Murphy. “After that, yes, apply a light bandage over the bite site, tie a stick to the affected limb to restrict movement, and most of all, get to a hospital or clinic.” “Unless you’re in the high mountains, nowhere in Taiwan is more than an hour from a stock of anti-venoms, so you’re most unlikely to die,” continues Murphy, an American teacher of English who does most of his “herping” on Hutoushan in Taoyuan, as well as at Baling on the Northern Cross-Island Highway. Despite his decade of hikes into snake-infested hills, Murphy has never been bitten. “And Taiwan’s research, production, What You Need to and storage of snake anti-venoms is among the best in the world,” concurs Murphy’s co-author, Hans Breuer, who favors Yang- Know About Taiwan’s mingshan National Park, as well as a cave near Beitou where snakes snatch bats out of the air. Breuer has also collected Snakes and published his anecdotes in A Cobra Hijacked My Camera Bag: Snakes and Stories from Taiwan, and offers lectures Snake bites are fairly rare, only a few common species are venomous, and antidotes are widely available.

STORY AND PHOTOS BY MARK CALTONHILL

hen you see a snake while hik- “Don’t panic,” say most medical ing along a country trail, it authorities, such as Taiwan’s Centers for would be useful to know the Disease Control (CDC). Its website recom- differenceW between a harmless greater green mends: “When bitten by a snake, please try and the similar-looking but venomous to remain calm…and seek medical atten- green tree viper. tion at a hospital as soon as possible.” If you live near open farmland or dense Go ahead and panic, says William woods, it would be similarly useful to Christopher Murphy, co-author of the know how to reduce the risk of a snake Snakes of Taiwan website. “You might entering your home. as well panic, because believe me, you’re But most crucially, if you ever get bitten going to anyway. Next, once you’ve by a pit viper, cobra, or the hundred pacer, calmed down a bit, take off any jewelry it would be really useful to know what, if from around the bite site.” Bill Murphy certainly knows a harmless anything, to do about it. Why? Because gold and silver react greater green from a green tree viper.

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on snakes in schools, for which purpose he keeps a pet rat snake (Ptyas korros; TAIWANESE MYTHS SURROUNDING ) in a vivarium in his study. “Actually, children are generally the last SNAKES AND SNAKE BITES ones who need educating about snakes,” he says. “Typically when I find a snake, if there’s a family nearby, the mother will scream, the father will want to kill it, the teenage son will go ‘So what!’, but the little daughter will say ‘How cute’ and then start asking questions about where it lives and what it eats and so on.” Some academic research supports Breuer’s theory, suggesting that children

under the age of four are not instinctively HUNDRED PACER GREEN TREE VIPER afraid of snakes, which suggests that fear of them is culturally learned rather than 1. You should try to suck out the venom. inherent. No, that can be dangerous. His talks, which last about 90 minutes, “include general information about local 2. If bitten by a hundred pacer, you will die within 100 paces. snakes, their biology, lifestyles, and their How the hundred pacer (Deinagkistrodon acutus; ) acquired importance for man and the environment – its reputation isn’t clear as it is neither Taiwan’s most venomous snake such as their role in pest control (both ven- – that accolade goes to various sea snakes or the many-banded krait omous and non-venomous snakes consume between 30 and 400 percent of their body (Bungarus multicinctus; ) on land – nor is it responsible for a high mass each week in mice and rats) – and, proportion of bites or deaths. That being said, a bite from the hundred well, simply their beauty.” pacer is painful and conspicuous, as the site swells up and bleeds, char- acteristics of hemotoxic venoms. Hands-on experience 3. Drinking alcohol helps neutralize snake venom. “The rat snake is a good species for No. In fact, drinking alcohol accelerates blood circulation, which enables petting,” Breuer says. “Although it is rath- venom to work faster. er nervous initially after being captured 4. All venomous snakes have triangular heads and distinct stripes. and may bite or thrash about violently in an attempt to escape, it quickly settles Exceptions include the Chinese cobra and many-banded krait, whose down and after a few days may be handled heads are not triangular, and the red-banded snake (Dinodon rufozona- with little danger of biting.” tum; ), which is striped but is not venomous, and the false viper Although Murphy and Breuer readily (Macropisthodon rudis; ), which mimics the Taiwan habu, also acknowledge they are amateur enthusiasts, their snakesoftaiwan.com website is an known as the brown-spotted pit viper (Protobothrops mucrosquamatus; invaluable resource for anyone with even a ), in having both a triangular head and stripes but is by-and-large passing interest in the island’s herpetology harmless. but who lack Chinese-language skills. 5. If you encounter a snake, run away in a zigzag pattern. The site is hands-on, presenting Tai- wan’s 50 or more species not taxonomically No, you should move away slowly in a straight line. Venomous snakes or alphabetically, but rather by color, size, are not particularly fast, and with only one functional lung, cannot move and patterning – that is, according to the quickly for long. In any case, snakes don’t chase humans; if one runs into features a casual observer might prioritize. you, it just wants to get away. Click on a photo, however, and a world of detail opens up, describing everything 6. Many of Taiwan’s venomous snakes were released by Japanese out of from scientific name, distribution, habitat, spite when they had to hand over the island to ROC rule in 1945. appearance (down to the all-important Although widely repeated, there is no evidence for this; early postwar number of rows of scales and whether the initiatives by the incoming KMT-led government sought to continue the anal scale is entire or divided), ecology, and diet – but starting, in lower or upper Japanese colonial administration’s attempts to eliminate all venomous case, with the fact a layman most wants to snakes throughout Taiwan. know: non-venomous, VENOMOUS, or

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HIGHLY VENOMOUS. than might be imagined. The basic answer SNAKES OF TAIWAN WEBSITE It is to this last category that another is “No, venom is simply made up of pro- good English-language webpage, Exhibition teins, which are destroyed by stomach of Venomous Snakes in Taiwan, supported acid,” so “as long as there are no wounds by the National Museum of Natural His- in the mouth or stomach, you cannot get tory (NMNH), is devoted. The site provides poisoned by eating venom or venomous information on the toxicity of their venom, snakes.” the degree of aggressiveness of their behav- More of a danger, it argues, are snake ior, and their relative abundance. parasites, cautioning that due to the “many Taiwan has six common members of cases of death due to threadworms… the highly venomous category, and the the eating of snake venom and venom- site introduces them clearly and concisely, ous snakes should therefore be avoided.” albeit somewhat morbidly focused on Maybe someone should tell the vendors the nature of the bite and toxicity of the of Taipei’s Snake Alley night market, or at venom. For those interested in such things, least their customers. however, there is also a detailed explana- The NMNH also has useful sugges- tion of how different proteases in snake tions on how to keep snakes out of your venom act – from those that attack the ner- home, such as regularly clearing weeds and vous system, blocking neuro-transmissions bushes, and sweeping up leaves to remove and causing muscles to relax (cholines- hiding places, trimming branches and vines terases), and those that start to digest the near windows to prevent access, checking victim’s flesh (proteinases), to those that walls and doors for cracks and holes, and paralyze victims (adenosine triphosphatase) covering vents with mesh. Most impor- or merely enhance the action of other tox- tantly, however, keeping the house clean ins (hyaluronidases). of leftover food because crumbs attract The website also contains a useful FAQ rodents, rodents attract snakes, and rat- section that challenges some of the myths eating snakes attract snake-eating snakes, surrounding snakes (see the “myths” the so-called king snakes. Do you still want sidebar). The answer to “Can people be your daughter to keep that guinea pig? poisoned by eating venom or venomous Despite the well-known cleanliness of snakes?”, for example, is more complex Taiwanese homes, emergency services are

WHAT TO DO IF BITTEN BY A SNAKE

1. Stay calm. Increased activity, especially of the affected limb, may cause the venom to spread more quickly. 2. Call for emergency help if available. Take a taxi or walk calmly to a hos- pital or clinic. 3. Wash the bite with soap and water. 4. Keep the bitten area lower than the heart. 5. Cover the area with a clean, cool compress or a moist dressing to ease swelling and discomfort. Do NOT apply a tourniquet. 6. Monitor your breathing and heart rate. 7. Remove all rings, watches, and constrictive clothing, in case of swelling. 8. Draw a circle around the affected area and note the time of the bite. 9. Try to remember the snake’s size and appearance – even take a pho- tograph if possible, though not if there is any chance of being bitten a second time. Second bites are often more venomous than initial ones, which may be warning “dry” bites. 10. Do NOT try to extract the venom using knife incisions or by sucking. Chen Szu-lung of Taipei Zoo discusses the habu's distinguishing features.

44 TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2020

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regularly called out to remove venomous Measuring up to 6-7 meters in length, Bur- snakes. “Between 1,200 and 1,700 snakes mese pythons often appear in news reports are captured this way each year in Taipei when firefighters around Taiwan are called City alone,” says Chen Szu-lung, cura- to collect particularly large specimens, tor of the Taipei Zoo’s Conservation and which are presumably escaped or aban- Research Center. “Islandwide, that num- doned pets. ber must be more than ten thousand,” he In warm climates, snakes often lay eggs. calculates. In other – ovoviviparous – species, the eggs Most of these snakes are taken to hatch inside the mother’s body and the more remote areas (Chen won’t specify hatchlings emerge as functioning free-living exactly where) and then released. The young. These include Taiwan’s green tree center keeps a few snakes for research or viper (Viridovipera stejnegeri; ) educational purposes, and others are sent and Russell’s viper (Daboia Russelli; ). to academic and medical institutes for the Also lost were snakes’ external ears, “milking” of venom and production of probably because getting soil in them anti-venom. To make anti-venom, horses while burrowing was annoying, though and goats are injected with trace amounts this does not mean snakes are entirely of venom, and antibodies are then har- without hearing. In addition to vision, vested from their blood. snakes also use smell to hunt prey, their This process was fairly haphazard until forked tongues darting in and out to a decade ago, and captured snakes had a collect airborne particles that are then This female habu will stay with her eggs lifespan of just a few months. This put the analyzed in the Jacobson’s organ in the until they hatch. CDC in the awkward position of being roof of their mouths. Furthermore, many involved in the deaths of protected species snakes, including pit vipers like the Tai- (a category in which all but one of Tai- wan habu, also have infrared-sensitive responsible for most snake bites in Taiwan wan’s venomous snakes belong), until the receptors in pits or grooves on their snouts as it rests in ground plants and bamboo lit- CDC joined forces with academic institutes that enable them to see the radiated heat ter during the day, and so is a menace for to improve its ability to keep snakes alive of warm-blooded prey. farmers. Nevertheless, deaths are rare as in captivity. Snake jaws are strong enough to with- even the smallest clinic in the countryside Chen’s research center also provides a stand the kicks of prey being swallowed, stocks this specific anti-venom. home for non-native species intercepted but are flexible enough to move indepen- In fact, deaths from snake bites are gen- during Taiwan’s customs checks (such as dently and thus consume prey larger than erally quite rare in Taiwan. A 1964 article boa constrictors native to South America) the apparent mouth size. in the government’s Free China Review and for pets no longer deemed owner- The Taiwan slug snake (Pareas formo- reported that fatalities, which had num- friendly, like an Egyptian cobra that bit sensis; ) has more teeth on its bered around 50 in 1945, had “by 1963 and killed its owner. right jaws than on the left, which helps it been reduced to two…both snake hunters The center is not open to the public, eat round corners inside a spiral snail shell. who were bitten while pursuing venomous but Taipei Zoo also has an Amphibian and Snake tails are quite short, as are their species.” These men were probably not Reptile House that is. Besides housing a necks; everything in between is elongated collecting snakes for consumption in Snake wide range of both local and foreign speci- thorax. Paired organs are arranged one in Alley, but killing them for cash. Snakes mens, the Zoo facility also has good educa- front of the other to maximize slenderness, were considered a pest, and Yangmingshan tional displays about the biology, ecology, and most snakes have only one functional National Park, for example, paid NT$5 and sexuality of various snake species, lung. The green tree viper, also known as per corpse in the early 1960s. though this is only in Chinese. the bamboo viper, has a red-brown tail that Since then, despite many snake spe- it can wiggle to imitate worms or caterpil- cies being protected, fatalities have fallen Evolutionary outcomes lars, a process known as caudal luring, further. According to a study in the Jour- which attracts small mammals, lizards, and nal of Acute Medicine in 2015, a total of Much snake biology derives from the even unsuspecting birds. 4,647 snakebites were reported in Taiwan process of evolution, probably from bur- This colored tail, as well as a white or between 2005 and 2009, but there were rowing lizards, a process that started about white-and-red stripe down the length of its only two documented deaths. Most bites 150 million years ago. First they lost their body, plus its triangular head, are the main were by GTVs, habus, cobras, and krait, in front legs, followed by the hind ones, ways to differentiate it from the harmless that order, and fewer than 1% were by the though in a few species these have evolved greater green. Also, it is nocturnal, whereas dreaded hundred pacer. into cloacal spurs used to grasp during the greater green is active in the daytime So, as Murphy says, “The most danger- mating. These species include the Burmese and sleeps in trees after dark. ous part of my herping trips is probably python (Python bivittatus; ), whose Although it is not aggressive, the green the five-minute scooter ride home after- range includes the Kinmen archipelago. tree viper or GTV as Breuer calls it, is wards.”

TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2020 45

snakes.indd 45 2020/7/2 下午5:31 ART EXHIBIT

Exploring Emergency and Trauma Through Art

Taking the 921 Earthquake as inspiration, modern art exhibition “Code Blue,” held in late March, looked at how people are affected by disasters.

BY ANTONIA TIMMERMAN

uch of life as we know it was “The Death of Light.” Attendees were ush- forever altered when the novel ered into a seemingly empty room, where coronavirus (COVID-19) blue lights shone from behind a white beganM its spread last December. To capture cloth draped ceiling-to-floor. Once past the trauma that people are experiencing this barrier, they found themselves stand- around the world as a result of the pan- ing in a bedroom bathed in blue light. The demic through artistic expression, the exhi- installation employed several mosquito bition “Code Blue” was held at the Taipei zapping lamps, whose buzzing sound and Contemporary Art Center in March. eerie glow created a chilling atmosphere. A Beautifully curated by Hong Kong art germicidal lamp, which emits harmful UV professional Shormi Ahmed, “Code Blue” rays that kill bacteria when turned on, sat brought together two Taiwanese artists – in the center of the room. Betty Apple () and Peng Yi-hsuan As Peng’s performance began, the lights () – whose performances and instal- were shut off. Peng sat at a desk, appear- lations reflected on what it means to live in ing to write something in a journal. Several a state of emergency caused by a disaster. minutes later, an alarm went off, and he Drawing inspiration from the 921 Earth- began switching the mosquito zappers on quake in Taiwan, the exhibition contem- one by one. He then announced that he plated how humans experience trauma. was going to turn on the UV light, requir- Betty Apple sets up the camera for her The exhibition opened with Peng’s ing attendees to evacuate the exhibition remote performance.

46 TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2020

art.indd 46 2020/7/2 下午5:32 ART EXHIBIT

Above, Peng Yi-hsuan writes down his memories of the 921 Earthquake. Left, Peng Yi-hsuan’s and Betty Apple’s installations.

in a journal. He then invited members Ahmed’s initial intention for the exhi- of the audience to write down their own bition was to share stories about the 921 accounts. Earthquake that took place on September Betty Apple’s installation, a collabora- 21, 1999, in which over 2,400 people were tion with visual artist Chiu Lin Yao ( killed. However, her conception of the ), was next. It took place in the Center’s exhibition kept changing throughout the basement, which the artists transformed year leading up to it, until the COVID- into a futuristic altar of worship inspired 19 outbreak began. While she was doing by the time Apple spent researching reli- research for the show, Ahmed explains, she gious practices in Mexico. Visitors were found that disasters like the current one are invited to attend a “mass” in which Apple often used by groups and governments as performed as a priestess. The original political tools. plan was to have everyone cram into the “In the case of the 921 Earthquake, basement with Apple, but coronavirus- it generated a collective consciousness prevention measures required that the that helped people to rebuild Taiwan,” performance be held remotely. Attendees said Ahmed. On the other hand, she stood outside and watched it in real time says, certain measures intended to reduce via an Instagram live feed. transmission of the virus are being used in As she stood in front of the camera, some places to suppress political dissent. Apple chanted mantras and performed As an example, she referred to her native strange dance moves, enticing her audience Hong Kong, where social distancing space as quickly as possible. Once outside, to follow along with her. guidelines have been used to crack down they naturally began talking to one another Ahmed noted that Apple’s perfor- on the ongoing mass protests triggered by about what had they had just witnessed. mance alluded to the current situation the government’s proposed extradition Peng’s performance created a situa- in which people in lockdown experience bill last year. tion eerily similar to the one we are facing everything through social media, and to Four months have passed since “Code now. Not only are we aware of an ongo- how many churches are conducting their Blue” was held, yet the topics it explored ing emergency (the pandemic), we are also services remotely to prevent the spread of continue to be relevant. Ahmed expresses aware of other people’s reaction to it. We COVID-19. the hope that the exhibition encouraged are forced to really look at and listen to Apple’s over-the-top style contrasted viewers to reflect on the past and to use one another. with Peng’s calm, subtle demeanor. The this reflection as a tool to face the current Once visitors were back inside, they merging of these two approaches made for situation, eliciting opportunities to work watched as Peng sat at the desk, writing a captivating exploration of death, fear, together and rebuild when the crisis has down his memories of the 921 Earthquake and mysticism. passed.

TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2020 47

art.indd 47 2020/7/2 下午5:32 Congratulations, TOPICS

For decades, Taiwan Business TOPICS has “inspired the Taiwan government with its policy suggestions and insightful reports. As a faithful reader of this magazine, I con- gratulate TOPICS for having completed 50 successful years through the efforts of its team of editors, writers, and journalists.

2020 is a critical year. As the world is fight- ing together against the COVID-19 pan- demic and the long-established world supply chain is undergoing restructuring, Taiwan has much to offer the world and will remain a reliable trading partner with the U.S. and the global economy. As we work to advance our strong and abiding relations with the United States, a bilateral trade agreement (BTA) between Taiwan and the U.S. can be mutually beneficial to

the people of both countries. A BTA can

also promote a better environment for American business investing in Taiwan. Best wishes for a most memorable 50th “ anniversary and for every success in the future.

— Dr. Jauhsieh Joseph Wu, Minister, Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Taiwan (R.O.C.)

48 TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • NOVEMBER 2019

7 congrats.indd 48 2020/7/2 下午5:33 Are You Reading a Borrowed Copy?

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Fullpage_Subscription_19.indd 49 2020/7/2 下午5:42 EXECUTIVE SUITE MEET PAULINE LEUNG OF COMPASS PR

For the past 40 years, home for Hong Kong native Pauline Leung has been Taiwan, where she has forged a path for herself in the high-paced world of public relations. After working for almost a decade as PR manager for Hilton International Taipei, Leung set up Compass PR, one of Taiwan’s foremost homegrown PR firms, serving a broad swath of international clients. She has served as chairman of Compass for over 30 years, and was also a longtime co-chair of AmCham Taipei’s Travel & Tourism Committee.

Pauline sat down with Taiwan Business TOPICS Deputy Editor Jeremy Olivier in June to discuss her career trajectory, her hands- off management style, and her thoughts on whether Taiwan tour- ism can rebound once the COVID-19 pandemic has eased.

How did you become interested in about building credibility and devel- by travel agencies have gotten better, public relations? What about the pro- oping a good reputation, so that people and there is a sizeable, well-educated fession attracted you to it? trust your company’s brand. To do this, boomer population that still prefers Before coming to Taiwan, I worked I kept up communication and worked group tours. The main issue now is briefly for a British travel agency in with all of our different stakeholders, making sure that tour operators have in- Hong Kong, as well as for Cathay including communities, government, depth knowledge of the local language, Pacific. When I came here with my universities, and local media. I was history, and culture of each place. husband in 1980, I was given the there for nine years, until I decided it In terms of inbound tourism, Taiwan opportunity to join Hilton International was time for me to move on and start relies mainly on tourists from sur- Taipei as a PR manager. At that time, my own company. rounding Asian countries. It still needs PR was not a big industry in Taiwan – to improve in its long-haul markets. there was only one international firm, From your experience, what are your Since travelers from faraway destina- I believe – and I did not have a full observations on Taiwan’s travel and tions like the U.S. and Europe tend to understanding of what kind of work it tourism market? visit more than one country when they entailed. However, the company said When I first came to Taiwan, its out- come to Asia, Taiwan would do well to they needed someone with an interna- bound tourism market was just starting coordinate with its neighbors to work tional perspective, so I just went for it to open up. I was shocked to see that out an itinerary that fits the traveler’s and was hired, no questions asked. the products available were very cheap, purpose. For example, having a single Since Hilton is an international hotel and there was very tough competition airline offer flights to several destina- brand, they had very a well-organized between local travel agencies to offer tions in Asia, as well as return flights to training process for their PR depart- less expensive packages. Also, people the traveler’s home country from any of ments worldwide, including a thick traveled almost exclusively in group those destinations. manual on how to handle all aspects of tours to avoid issues with the language the job, such as writing press releases. barrier. What were the main lessons that you I also researched and read many books Things have changed since then. learned from establishing a PR com- on public relations. You could say my The average Taiwanese traveler is a bit pany in Taiwan? expertise was developed by a mix of more sophisticated, his level of English When I founded Compass PR with company training and self-training. has improved, and he is more likely to a few friends in the late ‘80s, I had While working for Hilton, I learned engage in solo travel. Products offered to learn about how to generate cli-

50 TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2020

Paula Leung.indd 50 2020/7/2 下午5:33 EXECUTIVE SUITE

ents, how to make business pitches. We can share my views and experience, Does Taiwan brand itself well as an started small, and as I became more but PR is also very much about per- attractive destination for international familiar with the type of work you do sonal creativity, something that I don’t travel? What are some things Taiwan in a PR firm, we began pulling in bigger want to limit in my staff. I encourage can do post-pandemic to boost its clients, such as the Bank of Montreal brainstorming for this very reason; image as a hub of tourism in Asia? and Northwest Airlines – companies sometimes even small suggestions by I think Taiwan needs to do a better that were looking for a Taiwan PR firm inexperienced staff may lead to a very job of facing its history when it comes that understood the needs of a multina- good idea. to promoting itself as a tourist destina- tional operation. In terms of weaknesses, I tend not tion. It has a long history of occupation The big change came in 1991, when to be very aggressive. I don’t put in the and colonization by different countries, we were sought out by Formosa Plas- extremely long hours that are common but tends to focus mostly on the Jap- tics, who was planning to build its sixth in the PR business. I like my leisure anese period. Many visitors therefore naphtha cracker, but were being refused time. Similarly, I don’t require that are not aware of the Dutch and Spanish by the local counties, who were wor- kind of overwork from my employees, influences on Taiwan. Highlighting this ried about the pollution it would create. either; there’s no point in making huge history could do more to boost Tai- So, we helped them with the commu- profits if it means sacrificing your staff. wan’s image as a meeting ground of all nications plan, working to change the If you’re not aggressive in this sense, of these different cultures. attitudes of major stakeholders to the it means that you can only expand the As a PR professional, when I pro- project. This is the purpose of PR. You business so much. But I am happy to mote tourism for a certain place, I like need to display sincerity, but more keep our company the size it is now to tell its stories – to really draw atten- importantly, you need to be honest with and give a handful of good clients our tion to the history and culture of a everyone involved. If you’re not, people full attention. We go for quality over place. Another one of our big clients is will see that, and you may have to deal quantity. the Macau Tourism Office, who came to with negative results. us in 1992 and have been a loyal client One of the very basic components of Do you think Taiwan’s tourism ever since. Back then, Macau didn’t even our work – something which I believe industry will be able to make a come- have an airport, and few people were many companies don’t think is impor- back once the COVID-19 pandemic has aware of it as an attractive destination. tant – is monitoring the news on a daily ended? However, Macau has this wonderful basis. If even one customer makes a Actually, whether or not Taiwan history and was very important as the small complaint, a PR company that’s tourism can make a comeback depends first gateway into China when the Por- been following the general trends can more on other countries. If we are tuguese began landing there in the 16th help the client keep that small flame doing well, but other countries are not, century. So, it has all of these old-world from turning into a big forest fire. we are not going to see the tourist num- characteristics melded with Chinese bers from those countries come back influences. There is a lot to do and see Do you have a particular style as up. We do have a chance, though, for in Macau in that regard, and we’ve a manager? What do you see as your some recovery with the Rotary Inter- done our best to show that to Tai- main strengths? Any weaknesses? national Convention that will take wanese travelers. I think of myself as a very liberal place next June. We are expecting some So, back to Taiwan: I think you need leader. I believe that all roads lead to 45,000 registrants from 150 countries to craft an image of Taiwan as a very Rome, that there isn’t just one right – the biggest turnout we will have ever modern country with a very solid, inter- way of doing things, as long as your had in Taiwan for one event. So, I’m esting past. One thing that Taiwan can road doesn’t include a big detour. I hoping that will help. do better in this sense is to repurpose some of its old buildings as museums, which can give tourists a more well- rounded idea of Taiwan’s unique history.

How do you like to spend your lei- sure time? What do you find is the best way to get “recharged?” I’ve been in Taiwan for the past 40 years, and for 30 of those years, I’ve taken part in a women’s choral group. We meet every Wednesday night, and every year we perform at the National Concert Hall in Taipei. Singing in this group takes away a lot of my stress from work.

TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2020 51

Paula Leung.indd 51 2020/7/2 下午5:33 HOTELS

PHOTO: SHANGRI-LA'S FAR EASTERN PLAZA

Japanese meal nearby, I figured there would be ample time for a shochu night- Pandemic Affects cap. Alas, the staff told me that last call would be at 9:30. The reason: “Because Hotel Sector Unevenly of the pandemic, we’re closing at 10 now instead of midnight.” That made for a quick nightcap indeed. Still, it was an improvement over a visit to Urban hotels dependent on global travelers are the W Hotel’s Yin Bar a few weeks earlier. struggling with low occupancy rates, while rural When I arrived at 10 p.m. that evening, they were already shutting down. Usually, properties catering to the domestic market are Yin Bar is buzzing at that hour. doing a brisk business. The pandemic has hit Taipei’s five-star hotels hard. They rely on international visi- tors, usually a combination of business and leisure travelers. The domestic market usu- BY MATTHEW FULCO ally accounts for no more than 20%-30% y late May, Taiwan had corralled of their business. the coronavirus. With no sign of Taiwan’s borders have been closed to local transmission and minimal foreign tourists since March 19. “Hotels importedB infections, people began ventur- reliant on international business are really ing out again. Aside from temperature struggling,” says CK Cheng, founder and checks at the door and masked employees, chief executive officer of AsiaYo, a Taipei- a semblance of normalcy returned to many based vacation rental platform. “Some restaurants and bars. have occupancy rates as low as 3 to 5%, That impression was reinforced during compared to more than 60% normally.” a recent visit to the Okura Hotel’s lobby To be sure, Taiwanese are traveling lounge in Taipei’s Zhongshan district. again as fear about COVID-19 within Tai- Arriving at 9:15 p.m. after an excellent wan’s borders subsides. But they are choos-

52 TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2020

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ing far-flung locales like the unspoiled off- up compared to a year earlier on the back earlier to only about 78,000. shore islands of Matsu (population 12,716) of demand for non-urban vacation rent- In March and April, business was so off the coast of mainland China’s Fujian als. Cheng expects positive year-on-year slow that some five-star hotels used their Province, or the idyllic Penghu archipelago, growth in June of up to 100%, with inven- restaurant kitchens to produce lunchboxes which has Taiwan’s best white-sand beach- tory running low for the Dragon Boat Fes- for office workers in nearby office build- es. Taiwan’s scenic east coast is also a top tival holiday. ings, says kkday’s Chen. “It was a way to destination. generate revenue, especially as business “When Taiwanese go on holiday, they Survival of the fittest was slow at the restaurants.” don’t usually go to Taipei,” says Chen Several five-star hotels have not sur- Ming-ming, founder and chief executive For hotels in Taipei, 2020 has been the vived the pandemic. Thus far, those exiting officer of Taipei-based travel activity book- toughest year in memory. It didn’t start the market tend to be laggards that were ing platform kkday. “It’s not where you go out that way, though. January was largely already struggling amid an oversupply of to get away from it all.” unaffected, as the coronavirus outbreak rooms in Taiwan’s major cities. The Landis In addition, properties in Taiwan’s in China only became apparent late in the Hospitality Group shut down its Taichung rural areas are usually smaller than the month. Occupancy in Taiwan’s tourist hotel in March. That property had rarely city hotels, which may have hundreds hotels was 62.5% in January, down 8.3% broken even, reaching the black only once of guestrooms to fill. A typical bed-and- over a year earlier, according to property in its 13-year history, according to media breakfast has anywhere from 5 to 15 services consultancy CBRE. The decline reports. rooms. It doesn’t take much for them to can be attributed largely to China restrict- On April 30, the Tayih Landis Hotel reach capacity. ing its citizens from visiting Taiwan except Tainan announced it would permanently The abundance of B&Bs in places like in tour groups, a rule that came into effect shut down on June 30, citing a steep Penghu and the southern beach town of last summer. decline in business caused by the pandemic. Kenting – it previously seemed to be over- By February, as the virus tore through In late May, the Mandarin Oriental supply – is coming in handy as Taiwan China, occupancy in Taipei’s tourist hotels Taipei, one of the capital’s top luxury approaches summer vacation. Young people had plunged to 30.5%, a 40% decrease hotels, announced it would suspend guest- who would ordinarily travel overseas will over the same period a year earlier. At that room operations starting June 1 and lay hit the beach at home instead, Chen says. point the situation began to look grim. off 212 employees. Its restaurants remain Matsu, which is geographically much “The cancellations started to accumulate in operation. In a statement, the Manda- closer to mainland China than Taiwan, in February and March as countries closed rin Oriental said the timing for reopening will attract adventurous travelers. Many of down, one after another,” says Randy guestrooms would depend on when inter- its lodgings are homestays a stone’s throw Zupanski, general manager of the Shangri- national tourism in the region recovers. from quiet beaches. Some units lack air La Far Eastern Plaza Hotel Taipei. Japanese and Hong Kong business travel- conditioning, Wi-Fi, or even proximity to By March, the occupancy rate in Taipei ers are among Mandarin Oriental’s largest a convenience store. But the lack of ameni- had fallen to just 11.3%, down more than sources of customers. ties does not appear to be a deterrent. For 70% year-on-year. Total visitor arrivals fell Mandarin Oriental could have applied the four-day Dragon Boat Festival holiday 93% that month from 1,079,000 a year for financial relief from the Tourism weekend last month, 98% of Matsu prop- erties on booking.com were occupied. For the same period, Kenting and Tai- tung were 100% booked, Hualien 99%, Tainan 97%, and Penghu 85%. In con- trast, rooms for the entire holiday weekend were available in 568 Taipei properties. For AsiaYo, bookings have risen steadi- ly early April, when a surge in domestic travel during the Tomb-Sweeping Festival holiday weekend prompted the govern- ment to recommend that travelers who had visited crowded places during the holiday practice self-health management for 14 days and avoid public spaces. Fear of com- munity transmission lingered throughout the month, which also saw a coronavirus

outbreak on a Taiwanese navy ship. For- PHOTO: REGENT tunately, only 24 sailors were infected and community transmission did not occur. Each of the to-go meals that The Regent Taipei sells is accompanied by a card By mid-May, AsiaYo’s bookings were guaranteeing the safety of the food's preparation.

TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2020 53

Hotels.indd 53 2020/7/2 下午5:34 HOTELS

Bureau, which has prepared bailout funds for distressed hotels. The luxury hotel may have decided against doing so because international business travel and tourism will not rebound in the short term. The tourism aid program that the Exec- utive Yuan rolled out in April offers up to NT$18,960 (US$629) to each hospitality- industry worker furloughed during the pandemic. Loans of up to NT$50 million are available to hotels, travel agencies, and amusement parks, while B&Bs can apply for loans of up to NT$16 million. In June, the Ministry of Transporta- tion and Communications, which oversees the tourism industry, announced a new NT$3.9 billion subsidy plan for the travel sector, effective from July 1 to October 31. PHOTO: MATTHEW FULCO The ministry estimates that the plan will generate NT$23.5 billion in business. Colorful B&Bs at Penghu's Shanshui Beach. As part of the plan, every Taiwanese national is eligible for a NT$1,000 subsidy for one night’s stay at a hotel on Taiwan’s mitted to visit Taiwan without undergoing In Taiwan’s case, a so-called “travel main island. The subsidy can be used a a 14-day quarantine – it will be reduced to bubble” in which regular travel is restored second time for travel to Taiwan’s outlying five days – provided they meet certain cri- between the island and some of its key islands. teria. Besides the usual documents needed tourism markets – for instance, Hong While government support will help for a business trip, they will need to submit Kong, Japan, South Korea, and Singapore the overall tourism industry, Taipei hotels a negative COVID-19 test certificate from – could provide a huge boost to the belea- are unlikely to reap much benefit. Occu- a test conducted within three days of their guered hotel sector. pancy rates at Formosa International Hotel flight to Taiwan, a “disease prevention However, politics could prove to be as Corp’s flagship property, the Regent Taipei, plan,” and a travel itinerary. big a stumbling block as concerns about averaged just 20% in June compared to Hong Kong, one of Taiwan’s largest the virus. Reportedly, China has pressured 80% a year ago, group chairman Steven sources of business travelers, is consid- countries to include Taiwan in a travel Pan said at a shareholders’ meeting. ered low risk. Other key Asia business bubble only if the PRC is also included. traveler markets are considered medium It remains to be seen whether other coun- Waiting on a recovery risk: Japan, South Korea, Singapore, and tries will bow to Beijing’s pressure. A new Malaysia. coronavirus outbreak occurred in the Chi- For Taiwan’s hotel sector to recover, the Shangri-La’s Zupanski sees the eco- nese capital in June, suggesting the virus pandemic must be brought under control. nomic downturn adversely affecting busi- remains at large in the world’s most popu- Otherwise, Taiwan’s borders will remain ness travel, even after the pandemic ends. lous nation. closed, and occupancy rates in the large “A recession will have as much if not more Even if Taiwan lifts restrictions on Chi- cities will hover at 20-30%. Some hotels impact on the corporate travel market,” nese travelers, Beijing’s regulations current- cannot survive another six months without he says. As companies look to tighten their ly allow visits to Taiwan by tour groups international guests, even if the govern- belts, “business travel slows down.” only. Given the tense cross-Strait relations, ment offers generous support. Another factor affecting business travel China might extend the ban to FITs. There is some cause for measured is the rise of virtual meetings. “Business It could be six months to a year before optimism. In East Asia and Oceania, the travel could decline because of webinars Chinese tourists return to Taiwan, says virus is ebbing. Taiwan itself has not had a and Zoom [the video-conferencing soft- Ping Lee, CBRE Taiwan’s head of research. locally transmitted case for more than 60 ware], especially if costs are a major con- “Some Taiwanese hoteliers will be disap- days as of this magazine’s publication time. sideration,” says Achim von Hake, general pointed, because they feel it’s an easy mar- Vietnam, Thailand, Hong Kong, Macau, manager of the Sherwood Taipei. ket to develop.” Australia, and New Zealand have also He expects the MICE (meetings, incen- In the long run, however, Taiwan’s contained the coronavirus and are taking tives, conferences, and exhibitions) market tourism market will reap substantial measures to reopen their economies. to be slow for some time, while the global benefit from the nation’s success con- From June 22, business travelers from FIT (free independent traveler) market taining the coronavirus, says von Hake. countries and territories Taiwan deems low could recover relatively fast once travel “Taiwan will gain global recognition as and medium risk for COVID-19 are per- restrictions are lifted. a safe destination.”

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SEEING TAIWAN

Seeing Taiwan from the Basket of a Balloon

aiwan is an island of spectac- Taiwan Taitung International Balloon the area’s tea plantations, then much ular landscapes, and many of Festival has developed into a pivotal farther afield. T the best are found in the eastern fixture on the tourism calendar. The The sight of the balloon-filled sky counties of Hualien and Taitung. 2020 event, which will open on July 11 is also deeply impressive for those who Hualien has long been known as and run until August 30, is expected to stay on the ground. Whether you are a the gateway to Taroko Gorge, where draw hundreds of thousands of visitors. dedicated photographer or content to tourists look up and gasp at vertigi- Luye Highland’s association with aerial snap away with your smartphone, you nous walls of marble. Luye Highland sports actually predates the Balloon can be sure of leaving with delightful in Taitung is a different kind of natu- Festival, as it has long been one of images and memories. ral attraction, a small plateau from Taiwan’s leading paragliding centers. If you are unable to book an unte- which visitors can gaze down at the During the festival, tickets for unte- thered flight, or if such an early start verdant East Rift Valley. Created by the thered balloon flights lifting off from does not match your idea of a vacation, convergence of two tectonic plates, the Luye Highland are in huge demand. consider buying tickets for a teth- 150-kilometer-long valley is squeezed Spots must be reserved well in advance. ered balloon ride, which do not have between the Central Mountain Range While it is possible to book crack- to be purchased in advance. These are in Taiwan’s interior and the Coastal of-dawn untethered flights in other far briefer (typically seven minutes, Mountain Range, which shelters the seasons, the experience – though by all compared to up to an hour when flying valley from Pacific typhoons. accounts tremendously enjoyable – is untethered) and much less expensive. Much of the country’s best farm- not quite the same. In previous years, they have been avail- land can be found in this well-watered When they arrive at the launch site able between 5:30 and 7 a.m. and from region. From the seat of a bicycle, it is at 4:30 a.m., ticket-holders will see 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. Children under the age lovely. Seen from Luye Highland, it is multiple balloons of different dimen- of 10 are not allowed on any flights. gorgeous. But for views that will truly sions and colors slowly filling with air. In fact, the majority of people who take your breath away, book a flight in Later, as the balloons rise together into attend the festival never leave the a hot air balloon. the clear morning sky, those aboard ground. Simply finding a comfortable Since its first edition in 2011, the gain an eagle’s perspective, first over spot on the hillside to sit and watching

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balloons as they come and go is bliss- to rural calm, Taitung City offers more fully relaxing. excitement, as well as a wider range of Not all of the balloons are designed eating options. The city has significant to fly any distance. Several of the most attractions of its own, such as a 21-kilo- unusual in terms of shape or decoration meter bike trail that links the Seaside are kept close to the ground after being Park, Taitung Forest Park, and Liji inflated. Visitors hoping to take selfies Badlands. with a balloon replica of their favorite On the outskirts of the city, the cartoon character are advised to arrive National Museum of Prehistory (www. early, before the summer heat kicks in. nmp.gov.tw) introduces the peoples and Full details of the 2020 Taiwan wildlife that thrived in Taiwan thou- Taitung International Balloon Festi- sands of years ago. Among the objects val can be obtained from the event’s on display are ancient arrowheads and official website: https://balloontaiwan. ceramics, skillfully chiseled jade knives, taitung.gov.tw. The website has pictures and delicate shell ware. and videos of some of the wonderful When Taitung’s railway station was balloons that starred in previous festi- moved from the downtown to its pres- vals, a venue map, pilot credentials, and ent location in the suburbs, part of other useful information. CHISHAN the old site was reinvented as Tiehua Getting to the venue has never been Village. Local musicians and artists – easier or quicker. Taroko and Puyuma are able to pause wherever the view is many of them members of Taiwan’s express trains zip between Taipei and suitable to stop and take photos. Austronesian indigenous minority – Taitung in as little as three and a half For tourists planning to fly in a come here to perform and exhibit. Mid- hours, and the East Rift Valley Tour- balloon at daybreak, it makes sense to afternoon is the best time to arrive if ist Shuttle bus takes around an hour stay as close to Luye Highland as possi- you want to browse the market, which to get from Taitung Railway Station ble. Fortunately, that is easy to arrange. sells everything from locally grown to Luye Highland. Travelers happy to There are two accommodation options organic vegetables to handicrafts. Later dawdle on a somewhat slower train can on the plateau itself, and more than in the day, live music is performed. disembark at Luye Railway Station, a a dozen very nearby. Booking well in To learn more about the highlights 15-minute drive from the Balloon Festi- advance is advised. of Taitung County, go to https://tour. val venue. If you make a last-minute decision to taitung.gov.tw. Additional informa- For train fares and schedules, go attend the Balloon Festival but cannot tion about parts of Taitung and Hualien to www.railway.gov.tw. For details of find anywhere to stay in Luye itself, can be found on the website of the East Tourist Shuttle bus services, see https:// look at hotels and homestays in Guan- Rift Valley National Scenic Area (www. www.taiwantrip.com.tw. Renting a car shan, the next township to the north. erv-nsa.gov.tw). For all kinds of travel or motorcycle brings more flexibility, Guanshan earned its place on the tour- information about Taiwan, visit the of course. Two wheels are often better ist map by creating a 12-kilometer-long Tourism Bureau’s website (www.taiwan. than four, and not merely because park- bike path that shows off the area’s best net.tw), or call the 24-hour tourist ing is cheaper (usually free, in fact) and scenery. information hotline 0800-011-765 (toll more convenient, but also because you For tourists who prefer urban bustle free within Taiwan).

GUANSHAN

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7 ST.indd 57 2020/7/2 下午5:35 Foodie Goodies Hotel Indigo Taipei North - T.R Bar & Kitchen

Named after the abbreviation of Taiwan Renga, the most important industry in Dazhi in the 1920s, our brand-new restaurant - T.R Bar & Kitchen invites renowned French chef, Frederic Jullien to design an array of specialties and presents to you a unexpected experience of “familiarity”, “sharing”, and “trendy!”

Culinary consultant, Frederic Jullien Another dish worth mentioning is the "NO BONE CHICKEN WINGS RISOTTO". As a consultant, Frederic Jullien is responsible for the restaurant’s Using Taitung locally grown rice Koshihikari, and grilled Nantou entire menu design and the building and training of the culinary Puli boneless chicken wings, drizzled with a concentrated team. Frederic Jullien was born in Southern France, near the Italian essence, giving it a perfectly encapsulating authentic Italian and French border. After working many years at the Michelin flavor. three-star restaurant Taillevent in The signature specialty item that Paris, France. In 2012, he was you don’t want to miss is the noticed for his exquisite, delicate “AUSTRALIAN M5 WAGYU BEEF WELLINGTON”. and ingenuity creativity and joined Each is built with 36 layers of puff the renowned "Chef of the Century" pastry, made fresh daily by chef Joel Robuchon’s team. Fred, a perfect delicacy for 4 to share and will surely leave you wanting to A must try cuisine come back for more. Not forgetting Combining the classic tastes of it’s only available by pre-order 3 days Italian and French with elements in advance! from local Taiwanese cuisine, each dish shines of excellence. With A series of attractive bang for your each portion designed for 2 or buck, sea and land delicacy more, this is definitely THE place to selections, and popular handmade go with friends and families. kiln-roasted pizzas. Our items range The “SQUID-On-a-STICK” would be between NTD250 to NTD2,800 with our first recommendation. Inspired tailored set menus available upon by the famous local dish “Deep fried request. So come on over to enjoy oysters”, chef carefully uses only some fun and delicious food, to fresh and tender Penghu squid, amaze your foodie taste buds! stuffed with spiced vegetable mix and sprinkles of crispy deep-fried spring roll chips before serving to add a layer of texture. Each bite is filled with essence of the sea.

Calling all Amcham Members! 20% discount in T.R Bar & Kitchen Dine & Stay *Discount not applicable for set menu/ VIP room/ corkage Till 30 September, for every consumption of NTD 4,000 and above, and service charges enjoy a special surcharge at NTD2,200+15.5% for a 1 night stay! *Offer valid until Sep 30, 2020 * T&C may apply

Menu & Wine T.R Bar & Kitchen Restaurant 6:30-21:30 / Bar: 11:00-21:30 Reservations: 02- 3518-7778 Address: 4F, No. 200, Zhifu Road, Zhongshan District, Taipei City