Raffin Lochiver, Sutherland

Highland Archaeology Services Ltd Bringing the Past and Future Together

Desk Based Assessment and Walk-over Survey Report

7 Duke Street Cromarty Ross-shire IV11 8YH Tel / Fax: 01381 600491 Mobile: 07834 693378 Email: [email protected] Web: www.hi-arch.co.uk Registered in Scotland no. 262144 VAT No. GB 838 7358 80

Raffin, Sutherland: Building Survey February 2014

Raffin Lochiver, Sutherland

Desk Based Assessment and Walk-over Survey Report

Report No. HAS140205

Site Code RFN14

Client Mr K. Hamilton

Planning Ref 13/03986/FUL

OS Grid Ref NC 021 321 Date/ 28/02/2014 revision Author Lachlan Mckeggie

Summary

A desk-based assessment, walk-over and Level 1 building survey were undertaken at a site just to the East of Raffin, Sutherland in response to planning conditions (13/03986/FUL) for the development of a house on the site. This formed an accommodation camp for staff at a radar station nearby during the Second World War. An agricultural building had been erected on the eastern part of the site. As the physical remains of the camp are now disappearing and the site put to a new use, we recommend that the site might be marked in some way to record its previous use. A watching brief is proposed on clearance for the septic tank and soakaway where pre-camp features are still visible.

Raffin, Sutherland: Building Survey February 2014

Contents

Aims and objectives ...... 4 Location ...... 5 Legislation and Policy ...... 6 Background ...... 6 Methodology ...... 7 Results: Desk based Assessment ...... 7 Results: Field Survey ...... 14 Conclusions and Recommendations ...... 29 Appendix: Table of Photographs ...... 29

Illustrations Figure 1 Site Location ...... 5 Figure 2 Site layout plan ...... 6 Figure 3: Area investigated ...... 7 Figure 4: Desk based assessment sites ...... 9 Figure 5: Extract from J. Home Survey of Assynt 1774 ...... 11 Figure 6: Extract from OS first edition 6 inch (1:10560) map, surveyed 1875 ...... 12 Figure 7: Map showing post 1949 Field boundaries ...... 13 Figure 8: Site plan with selected features and modern building disturbance in red...... 15 Figure 9: Detailed site plan ...... 17 Figure 10: Feature 9 Plan with standing building ...... 18 Figure 11: Feature 28 plan...... 24 Figure 12: Feature 29 plan ...... 24 Figure 13: Camera Points ...... 31

Plate 1: General view of site (RFN14_009) ...... 4 Plate 2: Modern aerial view of site showing hut platforms ...... 8 Plate 3: Extracts from RAF aerial survey, 1949 ...... 12 Plate 4: Display board at Stoer Lighthouse ...... 13 Plate 5: Feature 3 steps (RFN14_031) ...... 14 Plate 6: Feature 5 Concrete Pad (RFN14_037 & 038) ...... 16 Plate 7: Feature 8 Concrete Pad (RFN_47) ...... 17 Plate 8: Feature 9, facing N (RFN14_051) ...... 18 Plate 9: Feature 13 Drain with Feature 15 in fore (RFN14_62) ...... 19 Plate 10: Feature 18 Wall S end (RFN14_074) ...... 20 Plate 11: Feature 18 detail from N end (RFN14_75) ...... 21 Plate 12: Feature 23, Air Raid Shelter (RFN14_092) ...... 22 Plate 13: Feature 25 Concrete Pad (RFN14_96-97) ...... 22 Plate 14: Feature 28 Building (RFN14_104) ...... 23 Plate 15: Feature 29 Building (RFN14_107) ...... 25 Plate 16: Looking N across Features 31 and 32 (RFN14_12-14) ...... 25 Plate 17: Clay brick from Feature 9 showing stamp (RFN14_066)...... 26 Plate 18: Photograph showing construction levels of buildings (RFN14_44) ...... 27 Plate 19: Photo showing Feature 4 air raid shelter construction (RFN14_34). New agricultural shed in background...... 27 Plate 20: Feature 26 Possible structure (RFN14_98-99) ...... 28 Plate 21: Stoer Head Lighthouse ...... 28

Raffin, Sutherland: Building Survey February 2014

Acknowledgements

We would like to thank the staff at the Highland Archive Centre for their help in locating RAF post- war aerial photographs. Lachlan and Lynne Mckeggie carried out the fieldwork; all photographs were taken by Lachlan Mckeggie, who also produced this report. Report editing and formatting was by John Wood. Background mapping has been reproduced by permission of the Ordnance Survey under Licence 100043217. Project drawings are reproduced courtesy of the client.

Aims and objectives

The objectives of the proposed work were to:

• Identify and record any cultural heritage features which might be affected by this development • Meet the planning condition (13/03986/FUL). • Minimise possible delays or costs to the development by anticipating archaeological requirements as far as possible, timetabling and integrating archaeological recording work with the project, and dealing with any issues arising quickly and efficiently. •

Plate 1: General view of site (RFN14_009)

Raffin, Sutherland: Building Survey February 2014

Location

The site is centred at approx. OS Grid Reference NC 021 321, at about 43m above sea level.

Figure 1 Site Location

Raffin, Sutherland: Building Survey February 2014

Legislation and Policy

The common principles underlying international conventions, national legislation and local authority planning policies are that cultural heritage assets should be identified in advance of development and safeguarded where practicable; if disturbance is unavoidable appropriate recording of features and recovery of portable artefacts should take place. These have been set out in international and European Union agreements, and UK and Scottish legislation, as well as national and local planning policies1.

Professional standards during the present project will be secured by adherence to the Codes of Conduct and Approved Practice and Standards of the Institute for Archaeologists and the Highland Council’s Standards for Archaeological Work.

Figure 2 Site layout plan

Background

The proposed development is the construction of a house on the site of a Second World War RAF camp just to the east of Raffin in Sutherland. Archaeological work was carried out in response to planning conditions and included a desk based assessment and field survey.

1 A summary of relevant international, EU, UK and Scottish legislation and policies is available from the Highland Archaeology Services office on request.

Raffin, Sutherland: Building Survey February 2014

Methodology

Desk based assessment and fieldwork were carried out in accordance with the Project Design previously agreed by all parties2. Upon inspection of remains on site it was felt that none of the upstanding remains warranted 3D modelling due to their very simple nature, so photography for this purpose was not attempted. Photography for normal Level 1 building survey was however undertaken as proposed. Fieldwork covered all surviving remains within the area highlighted in red below (Figure 3).

Figure 3: Area investigated in red

Results: Desk based Assessment

The proposed house site is located in the centre of a former RAF accommodation camp, built in or soon after 1941 to serve a Chain Home Low radar station at Point of Stoer, Sutherland, a little over a mile away 3. The site today is an open field but modern aerial photographs show the footings and partially standing remains of at least 20 structures as well as old field boundaries (Plate 2). The camp itself is listed as DBA 5 below. In addition to this camp seven other sites are known within 1km of the development area (Figure 4).

2 Mckeggie L. 2014 ‘Raffin, Lochinver, Sutherland: Project Design (HAS140201)’ Cromarty, Highland Archaeology Services Ltd. 3 http://her.highland.gov.uk/SingleResult.aspx?uid=MHG36210 (Canmore ID 13943)

Raffin, Sutherland: Building Survey February 2014

Plate 2: Modern aerial view of site showing hut platforms (Landmark Information Group)

DBA 1: Cornmill, Alltan Na Fithriac Grid Reference: NC 0168 3172 HHER ID: MHG11275 Canmore ID: 69811

The remains of a corn-mill, at the S of Alltan na Fithriach, consist of a 6m x 4m foundation 0.75m high, with lade and 60m of dry millstream from a rudimentary sluice. The much rusted remains of a mallet-head and shaft were noted on the site. T C Welsh 1971m. One unroofed building annotated as an 'Old Corn Mill' is depicted on the 1st edition of the OS 6-inch map (Sutherland 1878, sheet lviii), but it is not shown on the current edition of the OS 1:10,000 map (1971). Information from RCAHMS (SAH) 4 September 1995

DBA 2: Township, Raffin Grid Reference: NC 0140 3190 HHER ID: MHG18538 Canmore ID: 89530

An unroofed building is depicted on the 1st edition of the OS 6-inch map (Sutherland 1878, sheet lviii), but it is not shown on the current edition of the OS 1:10,000 map (1971). Information from RCAHMS (SAH) 4 September 1995

Raffin, Sutherland: Building Survey February 2014

Figure 4: Desk based assessment sites

DBA 3: Raffin Grid Reference: NC 0120 3200 HHER ID: MHG18539 Canmore ID: 89531

A farmstead comprising three unroofed buildings, and a head-dyke are depicted on the 1st edition of the OS 6-inch map (Sutherland 1878, sheets lviii and lviiiA). Two roofed buildings and one unroofed structure with four compartments, which is marked as a sheepfold, are shown on the current edition of the OS 1:10,000 map (1971). Information from RCAHMS (SAH) 4 September 1995

DBA 4: Township, Rubha Stoer Grid Reference: NC 0190 3210 HHER ID: MHG18537 Canmore ID: 89529

A township comprising seventeen roofed and six unroofed buildings, is depicted on the 1st edition of the OS 6-inch map (Sutherland 1878, sheet lviii). Eleven roofed and eleven unroofed buildings are shown on the current edition of the OS 1:10,000 map (1971). Information from RCAHMS (SAH) 4 September 1995

DBA 5: Second World War Military Camp, Stoer Grid Reference: NC 0215 3215 HHER ID: MHG36210 Canmore ID: 171475

Situated on the N side of the road to Stoer Ligthhouse (NC03SW 3) at Rubha Stoer is the accommodation camp for the Radar station at Stoer Lighthouse. Several hut bases can be seen with one or two buildings still extant. It is depicted on the current OS 1:10000 mapsheet (1971) as 'Camp site (disused)'. J Guy 2000; NMRS MS 810/10, Part.1, 6-7.

Raffin, Sutherland: Building Survey February 2014

DBA 6: Stone Rows, Cnoc Breac Grid Reference: NC 0289 3152 HHER ID: MHG30967 Canmore ID: -

[No description is given]

DBA 7: Clashmore Township Grid Reference: NC 03357 31286 HHER ID: MHG12219 Canmore ID: 4521

Over 20 roofed buildings shown as eastern part of village of Clashmore in 1878 (OS 6"map, {1878}). By 1907 (OS 6" map, {1907}) the majority had completely disappeared and only c6 roofless buildings are shown. OS 6"maps, Sutherland, 1st ed., (1878) and 2nd ed., (1907)

The area to NE of road at Clashmore is now cultivated in large fields but boundaries of smaller fields are still visible as well as the remains of c4 small holdings. Each small-holding seems to have consisted of a cottage and several outbuildings some attached to the cottages. Three holdings are in a group centre at NC035312 and are now little more than grassed over foundations. There are the tumbled amorphous remains of another group of buildings at NC038309. A roofless building at NC035310 was the cow stall for the roofed but deserted cottage near it. Visited by OS (G H P) 14 May 1962.

This deserted township is as described in the previous field report. The largest longhouse footing in NW group is 27m by 4m. Lazy bed cultivation is evident at NC033313. SE group comprises at least six building footings from 17m by 4m to 8m by 4m, all of which are subdivided. Lazy beds occur in the vicinity and large piles of stone clearance have been dumped at the N end of the group. Visited by OS (J B) 11 August 1980.

Township comprising 66 roofed and 6 unroofed buildings depicted on 1st edition of the OS 6-inch map (Sutherland 1878, sheet lviii). Thirty-three roofed and thirty-two unroofed buildings are shown on the current edition of the OS 1:10,000 map (1971). Information from RCAHMS (SAH) 4 September 1995

The township lies on an arc of SW, S and Seast facing sloping ground above Loch na Claise and between 20m and 70m above sea level. A model farm created by the Sutherland Estate in the 1870s destroyed the bulk of the early township, dividing the land into large rectangular fields, and the population was moved onto new crofts to the SW. The footings of several buildings survive within the area of the original township, and to the S east across an unnamed burn. Historic map evidence suggests that these latter buildings were mainly built in the first half of the 19th century as the earlier settlement expanded, but were then taken out of use after the construction of the model farm.

DBA 8: Ruined cottar house, Clashmore Grid Reference: NC 02887 31762 HHER ID: MHG52551 Canmore ID: -

The site of a ruined cottar house was recorded by Historic Assynt as part of a wider survey of Clashmore township. The remains of a cruck beam are visible within the surviving wall structure. A second house or outbuilding lies to the S. The main house has been incorporated within a rectangular sheep fank.

The buildings are first depicted on the 2nd edition Ordnance Survey map c.1906. They are shown to be ruined on the 6 inch Ordnance Survey map c.1971.

Raffin, Sutherland: Building Survey February 2014

Historical Mapping and Arial Photography

Figure 5: Section from J. Home Survey of Assynt 17744

Historical maps and aerial photography of the area were consulted as part of the desk based assessment. These revealed more information about the development of the site.

The earliest map available of the area is an estate map of 1774. This shows no permanent settlement in this area, although what is now Raffin appears as an area of shielings or summer grazings called ‘Clash a Char’. The second element of this name is unclear but the first appears to be clais, probably reflecting the general name for the area, Clashmore (the big drain) but possibly referring to the ridge and furrow shown on the map. Some evidence of rig and furrow was found during fieldwork and its presence suggests that this was at some time a cultivated hill-field or achadh rather than a shieling for cattle in the usual sense. Such sites can sometimes coincide with areas of Bronze or Iron Age settlement but we found no indications of such a connection here.

This area is all to the west of the Alltan Fithriach burn. To the east of the burn, a dyke is shown along the base of the ‘Mossie brae covered with heath’, above which the ground is described as “High mossie ground covered with heath and rough pasture”. To the west, the land is “Smooth mossie ground yielding pretty good pasture with a mixture of heath” (Figure 5).

By the time of the Ordnance Survey 1st edition survey of 1875 the settlement of Raffin has appeared with a scattering of dwellings and associated gardens to the north and west (Figure 6).

The Ordnance Survey map 1 inch to 1 mile popular addition of 1930 also shows the present site as open land5.

The best record of wartime activity in this case is provided by the 1949 aerial survey of the whole of the United Kingdom. Two photographs show the site, although it appears that even by this date most of the buildings had been demolished leaving only concrete bases (Plate 3). However, at least 21 individual features can be discerned from the aerial photographs, together with three site entrances. Of particular note are a pad on the west side of the site that has been destroyed by a track shown on modern maps. A standing structure is also shown opposite the westernmost entrance which is no

4 J. Home 1774 ‘Survey of Assynt: No 2. No. 2 - A Plan of the Farms of Clashnessie, Auchnagarnan [Achnacarnin], Culken [Culkein], Clashmore and Bellachlatach [Balchladich]’ From: http://maps.nls.uk/estates/assynt/detail.cfm?id=2228 5 Ordnance Survey 1930 One-inch "Popular" edition, Scotland. Sheet 15 Lochinver & Loch Assynt (http://maps.nls.uk/view/74400531)

Raffin, Sutherland: Building Survey February 2014

Figure 6: Section from OS first edition 6 inch (1:10560) map, surveyed 1875 (Sutherland, Sheet LVIII) Not reproduced to scale.

Plate 3: Extracts from RAF aerial survey, 1949

Raffin, Sutherland: Building Survey February 2014

From the 1949 pictures it is also clear that several new field boundaries have been added around the site since the photographs were taken. These are identified below (Figure 7).

Figure 7: Map showing post 1949 Field boundaries in red

Finally during desk based work, a supposed plan of the site was found among public contributions to the RCAHMS Canmore site6. It later became apparent that this was taken from an interpretation board at the lighthouse. However, the source of the information presented is unclear (Plate 4).

Plate 4: Display board at Stoer Lighthouse

6 http://canmore.rcahms.gov.uk/en/site/171475/contribution/stoer/

Raffin, Sutherland: Building Survey February 2014

The board shows a very stylised version of the building layout at the site. Unfortunately not even half of the structures found are accounted for and there is no way of proving the use of each building from the surviving physical remains.

Conclusion Although eight sites were identified during the desk-bsed assessment (DBA), only two of them might be affected by the proposed development. Although this is within the area of Rubha Stoer Township (DBA 4), the site is arable land at the time of the 1st edition Ordnance Survey map (Figure 6). Buried evidence of earlier occupation might be found, but if so, it is likely to have been very disturbed by ploughing, and the creation and use of the RAF camp (DBA 5).

Plate 5: Feature 3 steps (RFN14_031)

Results: Field Survey

The field survey was carried out on 18th February 2014 by Lachlan and Lynne McKeggie. The site is situated on a south-facing slope extending along and out from the road just to the East of Raffin. The weather on site during the survey was overcast and wet with light winds and occasional breaks in the rain. A large agricultural building and access track had already been constructed over the east end of

Raffin, Sutherland: Building Survey February 2014 the main RAF camp, totally destroying any features here. Some other areas close to this were also obscured with rubble and other building debris. Both the main field, and the small field to the east were however carefully walked and all features recorded. 33 features were identified and each was measured and photographed (Figure 8 & Figure 9). Where appropriate, scaled plans were drawn of the buildings. (All measurements are in metres)

Feature 1: A rectangular concrete hut base with brick edging, now heavily damaged and largely removed. The brick edging is still visible in places, as is the full extent of the (removed) pad which measures 11m by 5m with the long axis running NW/SE.

Feature 2: A concrete cap or pad over a brick lined pit, set into the ground just to the SW of Feature 1. It measures 0.75m by 0.83m.

Feature 3: Concrete covered steps with clay brick edging and scored concrete tops. Two steps survive although there may have been a third below, now buried. These lead to a slightly raised walkway leading NNW on the same alignment as the steps before petering out at N end. The visible step area is 1.2m by 1.3m with a tread depth of 0.3m (Plate 5: Feature 3 steps (RFN14_031)Plate 5).

The diamond-shaped scoring on top is probably for grip, either for people or another now missing surface to bond.

Figure 8: Site plan with selected features and modern building disturbance in red.

Feature 4: A sunken grey concrete brick structure, under turf, with 6 steps on its W side. The outer W wall above the surface is clad with local stone pressed at random into concrete to form a very rough surface. The

Raffin, Sutherland: Building Survey February 2014 steps inside descend from an opening on the E into a concrete brick lined chamber with corrugated iron ceiling, now partly filled with water. The whole structure measures 6.3m by 3.7m with the long axis running NW/SE. However as it is buried, a larger area of ground around was disturbed and raised by its construction. It seems likely that this is an air raid shelter, one of several similar structures on the site.

Feature 5: A concrete hard standing with a low lip around the edge, also covered in concrete and partly buried. At the W end, a small rectangular spur projects from the centre of the short W end. The large pad is 11.3m by 4.6m and the spur is 1.1m by 1.6m. Both are on the same long axis, running WNW/ESE (Plate 6).

Feature 6: A concrete standing, on brick foundations, now mainly covered with sandstone boulders. Four courses of brickwork are visible below the pad, exposed in the SW corner. It measures 11.2m by 4.6m with the long axis running WNW/ESE.

Feature 7: A concrete standing, on clay brick and rubble foundations. This pad also has one small square section on one side reinforced with central pin. The pad is 11.2m by 5.05m, with the long axis oriented WNW/ESE. There also appears to be a ditch on the East side. The reinforced patch is probably the base for a pillar for this structure and there is also evidence of concrete having been poured straight onto a rubble base.

Plate 6: Feature 5 Concrete Pad (RFN14_037 & 038)

Feature 8: A concrete standing with brick edging. This pad also has a narrow walkway connecting it to Feature 6 on the E side. There is also a set of steps leading down to Feature 9 on the S side. At the W end a small rectangular concrete spur projects from the centre of the edge. This spur is also on brick foundations. The pad is 11.25m by 5m and the spur extends out 1.25m and is 0.85m wide (Plate 7).

Raffin, Sutherland: Building Survey February 2014

Figure 9: Detailed site plan

Plate 7: Feature 8 Concrete Pad (RFN_47)

Raffin, Sutherland: Building Survey February 2014

Feature 9: A long concrete pad on brick edging, 14.8m by 5m with the long axis running SSW/NNE. A section of the S end of the pad is a separate section with a step down to a lower level. At this southern end, the eastern side of the brick structure still remains complete to full height with two cells, roof and a single window (Figure 10). On the SW end of the pad a set of concrete steps leads down to ground level. Much of this pad is covered in brick and broken masonry. In one place the brickwork is exposed to show the makers stamp reading ‘MUIR’. This pad is connected to Features 8 and 10 with a walkway to the WNW joining it to Feature 10 and steps leading up to Feature 8 in the NNE. The walkway is on extant brick foundations standing at least 0.6m above ground level on the S side.

Plate 8: Feature 9, facing N (RFN14_051)

Figure 10: Feature 9 Plan with standing building

Raffin, Sutherland: Building Survey February 2014

Feature 10: A concrete stand on brick and rough stone. Much of this pad’s surface is very broken up, with brick and concrete across the surface and some parts collapsed. A set of clay brick and concrete steps leads down from the W gable. The pad is 11m by 5m, with steps extending out 1.9m and 1.1m wide, but the depth of tread is lost.

Feature 11: A brick wall runs between Features 9 and 10, parallel and S of the walkway joining them. A second wall joins the wall, with the walkway halfway down its length forming two small cells. The whole area is 3.1 by 0.9m. It is unclear what function this area had.

Feature 12: Two concrete lined rectangular pits lie just W of Feature 9. The northernmost pit is orientated NE/SW and the southerly one, NW/SE. The northern pit has internal dimensions of 0.9m by 0.6m with an exposed depth of 0.65m. The southern pit is 0.45m by 0.55m, with a depth of 0.5m. These appear to be drain inspection pits, now missing their covers. The southerly pit appears to line up with Feature 13.

Plate 9: Feature 13 Drain with Feature 15 in fore (RFN14_62)

Raffin, Sutherland: Building Survey February 2014

Feature 13: A ditch running across part of the central southern area of the site; now fairly shallow (up to 0.2m) but about 1m wide. This appears to be connected to Feature 24 at the NW end, Feature 12 in the middle, and at the S end with Feature 15 (Plate 9).

Feature 14: A concrete stand with brick and rubble stone foundations close to the S edge of the site. This pad appears to have been divided into two parts around with three-quarters one open space on the W side and a dividing wall across its width leaving a smaller E end with central drain. The whole pad is 11.4m by 5m, with the long axis running WSW/ENE.

Feature 15: A brick-edged inspection point for drain Feature 13, 1.1 by 1.2m. This is capped with an irregular concrete slab that may not be original. This feature seems to be directly across the modern road from a large concrete tank that was outwith the survey area (Plate 9). This feature was probably connected with waste management on site.

Feature 16: A small, drystone rubble corner section, possibly for the foundations of a spur projecting from the W end of Feature 14. Approximately 2m by 1m.

Feature 17: A sweeping driveway or road, indicated by stone and concrete edging on both sides and two upright timber posts with possible gate fitting holes set into concrete. This area extends from the surrounding wall up to Feature 9, with a small section extending towards Feature 14. It seems likely this is the site main entrance with gates and a parking area. Steps leading down from Feature 9 onto this area are also significant.

Plate 10: Feature 18 Wall S end (RFN14_074)

Feature 18: A line of large upright stones stretching across the middle of the site, running away from the road on a roughly N/S alignment (Plate 10). One stone closer to the N end is marked with a series of deeply incised grooves both on the corner and one face (Plate 11). The line of stones seems likely to be the base of a dry stone wall, now mainly removed. The incised stone is not of a recognised type or function.

Raffin, Sutherland: Building Survey February 2014

Plate 11: Feature 18 detail from N end (RFN14_75)

Feature 19: A levelled-out rectangular area, cut into the hill on the N side and forming a clear corner on the NW side. Although the edge is ephemeral on the S and E sides it seems to be at least 9.6m by 6.1m. This is probably the robbed out remains of another concrete pad, now entirely removed.

Feature 20: The remains of a sunken building, now mainly buried. The entrance passage is visible on the E side, open to the S with two almost buried concrete steps leading up to the opening. The passage is lined with clay brick, with concrete brick extant at the N end. The N face is constructed with boulders pressed into the concrete and the building extends underground at 90 degrees to the passage to the W. The whole structure is around 7.1m by 5.4m but the area of disturbed ground around it is larger. This appears to be a filled-in air raid shelter similar to Features 4 and 23.

Feature 21: A small concrete pad with remains of clay brick walling on its western side, mainly tumbled out of building and concealing a small spur on this side. The pad is 3.4m by 3m. The spur in this case probably supported a brick chimney that survived longer than the rest of the structure but is now tumble.

Feature 22: Rig and furrow lines, running uphill on the northern side of the site. These have an amplitude of about 2m and survive as linear turf –covered mounds up to 0.1m high. These are evidence of earlier agriculture on the site and might refer to the rig shown on the 18th c. estate map.

Feature 23: A sunken building built into the hillside and constructed from rubble and concrete brick, measuring 2.9 by 3.7m. In this case the entrance passage is on the W side, with the steps now buried along with most of the chamber. However the chamber is still around 1m high with most of the roof complete. The outer walls exposed on the S and W are constructed of rough stone and the ground around the building is disturbed (Plate 12). This appears to be a partially buried air raid shelter, similar to Feature 4 and 20.

Raffin, Sutherland: Building Survey February 2014

Plate 12: Feature 23, Air Raid Shelter (RFN14_092)

Feature 24: A small brick building with a concrete base, surviving to 8 courses in places, and with its entrance in the SW. The broken thick white porcelain remains of a urinal still remain in the southernmost corner of the SE wall. The whole building is 3m by 2.2m. The building appears to be at the top of Feature 13, a drain which would have carried waste off the site. This is a small toilet block.

Feature 25: A concrete standing with brick edging on rubble foundations. The pad is 11.2m long by 5m wide, with its long axis running NW/SE (Plate 13).

Plate 13: Feature 25 Concrete Pad (RFN14_96-97)

Raffin, Sutherland: Building Survey February 2014

Feature 26: A low rectangular drystone structure, surviving up to 2 courses on NE side but sloping away to flat in the NW. Measuring 7.3m by 4m, with its long axis running NW/SE, this structure survives up to 0.35m high in parts.

Feature 27: A large concrete pad, partly buried beneath modern rubbish and turf. It is cut into a slope in the NW corner and measures about 13.7m by 11m, with the long axis running roughly E/W. This pad may have been a large workshop for vehicles. It is still opposite an entrance to the site.

Feature 28: A concrete brick rectangular structure on a concrete base with clay brick edging, a flat roof and a large opening on the W gable. The building measures 4.8m by 3m, and is orientated just off E/W with a buttress on each long wall. Small blocked in vents are also visible in the long walls. The building is largely intact, with wooden panelling, a window and door filling the East end opening. The woodwork, door and window are in poor condition but do not appear to be original (Plate 14).

Plate 14: Feature 28 Building (RFN14_104)

Raffin, Sutherland: Building Survey February 2014

Figure 11: Feature 28 plan.

Figure 12: Feature 29 plan

Feature 29: A clay brick structure with an open E end and two buttresses on each long wall, as well as a single buttress on the back gable (Figure 12). The building is 7.9m by 3.9m wide, and has blocked-in windows on both long walls. It is orientated in parallel with the road just off E/W. The roof level appears to have been raised, with the top eight courses being concrete brick. The roof appears to be formed by a concrete slab supported by two concrete joists running across the building. There is

Raffin, Sutherland: Building Survey February 2014 evidence for a wooden frame around the opening to hold large doors and also at least two sets of brackets to replace them. It is currently housing a tractor (Plate 15). This structure may not have changed its use since it was built, and was probably always a vehicle garage.

Plate 15: Feature 29 Building (RFN14_107)

Feature 30: A narrow pit, lined with concrete blocks.

Feature 31: A bell-shaped drystone enclosure constructed from random rubble. The enclosure wall abuts the site’s outer boundary wall (Feature 33) and is constructed using some very large stones set into the ground in lower parts. The walls survive up to 1m high in places but are badly tumbled in others (Plate 16).

Plate 16: Looking N across Features 31 and 32 (RFN14_12-14)

Raffin, Sutherland: Building Survey February 2014

Feature 32: A sub-rectangular enclosure formed using two external site walls (Feature 33) and sharing a third wall with Feature 31. It is not clear whether feature 31 or 32 was constructed first, but both were constructed after Feature 33. This enclosure survives up to 1.1m in places but is tumbled in parts and constructed in the same random fashion as Feature 31 (Plate 16).

Feature 33: The external boundary wall of most of the site, made up of large stones set into the ground. It is best preserved on the roadside, where it has probably been repaired. On the N side of the site, part of this wall has been demolished to construct the new livestock barn. It survives up to 1.3m high in places and is around 0.4m wide.

General interpretation

The primary and dominant features of the site are those belonging to the 1940’s RAF camp constructed mainly from clay bricks and poured concrete. As well as the overall layout (Figure 8), a number of elements have been identified during the survey to shed further light on the site. Firstly it appears from the brick stamps that all clay bricks were made in Barbauchlaw Brickworks, Livingstone, which operated between 1897 – 1947 (Plate 17: Clay brick from Feature 9 showing stamp (RFN14_066).Plate 17).

Plate 17: Clay brick from Feature 9 showing stamp (RFN14_066).

The sloping nature of the site has required the use of steps and walkways that may not be present on other sites of a similar nature. This is particularly notable on the S side of many structures, where foundations are often exposed. These exposed foundations have allowed some conclusions to be drawn as to how most of the buildings were constructed on this site. Firstly areas were cleared and made flat (Feature 19), sometimes using rubble to help in building up lower parts (Plate 18). Next a clay brick foundation wall was built around the outside edge for 3 to 5 courses. This hollow box was then filled with random local rubble, smaller stones and flattened with poured concrete, with varying levels of success in terms of solidity. On top of these foundations buildings could be constructed in clay brick or other material as necessary, or prefabricated huts erected.

Raffin, Sutherland: Building Survey February 2014

Plate 18: Photograph showing construction levels of buildings (RFN14_44)

This construction method would have been the case for the majority of buildings, however for the air raid shelters (Feature 4, 20 and 23) once an outer shell was constructed yet more rubble and finally earth would be piled over the whole construction to provide protection (Plate 19). These shelters are very similar in construction but the steps were placed on different sides and the shelter chamber varied slightly in shape.

Plate 19: Photo showing Feature 4 air raid shelter construction (RFN14_34). New agricultural shed in background.

Apart from the Second World War remains, there is good evidence of the area’s earlier agricultural past. This is particularly clear in the enclosures (Features 31 & 32) as well as the rig and furrow on the north side of the site (Feature 22). The apparent footings of a wall running N-S across the site (Feature 18) also suggest an agricultural use, but also that the Second World War camp was built in a hurry, when removing such large stones was not considered a priority. Finally there is evidence of a possible pre-1940 building on the SW side of the site, close to the enclosures (Feature 26). This

Raffin, Sutherland: Building Survey February 2014 feature however is in a poor state of preservation, and it is possible that it may represent some other activity (Plate 20).

Plate 20: Feature 26 Possible structure (RFN14_98-99)

Plate 21: Stoer Head Lighthouse

Raffin, Sutherland: Building Survey February 2014

Conclusions and Recommendations

War time remains The wartime remains on this site represent an important part of Britain’s history and illustrate how every part of the UK was affected. The surviving physical remains have now been recorded but we recommend that the site is marked in some way, perhaps with a roadside panel or board to indicate that this is where service personnel were billeted during activities at Stoer head lighthouse.

Pre War Activity Pre-War features in the development area are less clear - in particular, Feature 26 on the W site. Although the evidence is limited, as a precaution we recommend that ground-breaking works for the septic tank and soak-away are monitored by an archaeologist and that any features encountered there are recorded.

Appendix: Table of Photographs

Photo No. From Facing Showing (RFN14_) 1-6 CP1 -S- General view of site from N East corner 7 - - Brick with stamp 8-11 CP2 -SE- General View of site from N W corner 12-16 CP3 -E- General view of site from W end 17-23 CP4 -NW- General view of site from East end 24-27 F1 -NE- General view of new development on site from Feature 1 28 - SW Feature 1 robed pad 29 - W Detail of Feature 1 showing brick lining 30 - N Feature 2 brick lined pit with cap 31 - NW Feature 3 steps 32 - W Feature 4 Air raid shelter 33 - N Feature 4 Air raid shelter steps 34 - NE Feature 4 Air raid shelter W end 35-36 - E Feature 4 Air raid shelter interior 37-38 - -W- Feature 5 Concrete Pad 39 - W Feature 5 Concrete Pad 40-41 - NW Feature 6 Concrete Pad buried under rubble 42-43 - WNW Feature 7 Concrete Pad 44-45 - N Feature 6-8 Walkway between two features 46-47 F6 W Feature 8 Concrete Pad 48 - E Feature 8 Concrete spur 49 - N Feature 8 Steps 50 - S Feature 9 Concrete Pad with upstanding building 51-52 - N Feature 9 Steps and structure 53-54 - NE Feature 10 Concrete Pad with steps 55-56 - S Feature 11 joining cells between Feature 9 and 10 57 - E Detail of drain between Features 8 and 9 58 - W Feature 12 N drain pit 59 - S Feature 12 N drain pit 60-61 - NW Feature 12 S drain pit with drain Feature 13 in back

Raffin, Sutherland: Building Survey February 2014

Photo No. From Facing Showing (RFN14_) 62 - NW Feature 13 Drain and Feature 15 Drain cover in foreground 63 - W Feature 14 Concrete Pad 64 - W Feature 14 Concrete Pad detail with drain 65 - S Detail of drain cover East of Feature 9 66 - - Detail of brick showing stamp in Feature 9 67-68 - E Feature 17 Driveway and gate posts 69-70 - ENE Feature 17 Driveway and gate posts 71 - NE Feature 16 Dry stone feature 72-73 - N Feature 18 Line of large stones 74 - E Feature 18 Line of large stones 75-76 - NE Detail of stone with marks part of Feature 18 77-78 - N Feature 19 Levelled area 79-80 - -NW- Feature 20 Air raid shelter 81 - N Feature 20 Air raid shelter entrance 82 - SE Feature 21 Small Concrete Pad 83 - S Feature 21 Small Concrete Pad 84-87 - -S- Feature 22 Rig and furrow across top of site 88-90 - NW Feature 32 Dry stone enclosure outer wall 91 - N Feature 23 Air raid shelter entrance 92 - S Feature 23 Air raid shelter from above 93 - E Feature 23 Air raid shelter interior 94 - NE Feature 24 Toilet block 95 - SE Urinal in Feature 24 96-97 - NE Feature 25 Concrete Pad 98-99 - W Feature 26 Dry stone structure 100-101 - -NW- Feature 31 Dry stone enclosure 102-103 - NW Feature 27 Large Concrete Pad 104 - SE Feature 28 Concrete brick extant building 105 - NE Feature 28 Concrete brick extant building 106 - NW Feature 29 Brick built garage 107 - SW Feature 29 Brick built garage 108-110 - - Feature 29 interior 111 - S Feature 29 N side 112 - E Feature 29 W gable 113-114 - N Feature 29 S side 115 - W Feature 30 Concrete block pit 116-118 - NE Feature 31-32 Dry stone enclosure wall 119 - W Feature 33 Dry stone exterior wall road side. 120-123 - -S- General view of East field. 124-132 - - Store lighthouse information board 133 - - Store lighthouse -

Raffin, Sutherland: Building Survey February 2014

Figure 13: Camera Points