180 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS WHERE TO STAY hether you feel like staying new boutique hotels. Beyoğlu, in an Ottoman palace, tak- across the Golden Horn, is a good Wing a room in a restored place to look for three- and four- mansion or traditional wooden star hotels, including the grand house, or even spending a night old hotels of the 19th century. The in a converted prison, you will hotels listed on pages 184–91 find the hotel of your choice in have been chosen from the best . Following a recent boom the city can offer across all price in , the city’s hotels and ranges. Each hotel is given a guesthouses now cater for every brief description and details are taste, as well as all budgets. Hotels provided about the facilities tend to be clustered around available. Also check the website Istanbul’s main sightseeing areas. Doorman at www.istanbulhotels.com on the Sultanahmet contains many of the Hilton (p190) Inter net. Information on other city’s historic hotels, guesthouses and types of accommodation is on page 183.

CHOOSING A HOTEL

Many hotels in Istanbul are rated by the Ministry of Culture and Tourism according to a star system. They range from comfortable but basic one-star hotels to five-star luxury hotels. Other types of accommodation licensed by the Ministry are the converted buildings known as Special Licence hotels. A further category is the accomm- odation licensed by the Greater Istanbul Municipality. These hotels provide perfectly Lounge of the Ceylan Intercontinental Hotel in Taksim (see p189) reasonable facilities, but with less stringent standards. slopes leading down to the LUXURY HOTELS Accommodation is available Sea of Marmara. There are in most central areas of the also middle-range hotels in There has been a rapid city. The Sultanahmet district central Sultanahmet. growth in the number of is conveniently situated within A short tram ride west from luxury hotels in the city, and walking distance of most of Sultanahmet are the Beyazıt, most international chains are the city’s major sights. Many Laleli and Aksaray districts, now represented in Istanbul. of the Special Licence hotels which are packed with one-, Almost all five-star hotels in this area are tucked away two- and three-star hotels. boast spectacular Marmara or on residential side streets. The cheaper hotels here are Bosphorus views, and between There are guesthouses along used mostly by Central Asian them they have some of the Divan yolu Caddesi, the main and Russian traders, while best international restaurants through road, and on the many of the three-star hotels in the city. All the major hotels cater for package tour groups. have swimming pools and Beyoğlu and Taksim, the health clubs. Many of them old European centre of also have Turkish baths. Istanbul, are within easy Conference facilities are reach of the best sights in provided, and many hotels the city. Both have innum- have extensive entertainment erable cheap hotels that are facilities. Most can also comfortable and dependable, arrange tours of Istanbul and as well as international nearby places through local chain hotels. companies. All hotels must The Asian side of Istanbul provide sections or floors is a mainly residential area where smoking is forbidden. but also contains some hotels. They also provide facilities There are also hotels in for disabled visitors, arrange Kadıköy, which are used special activities for children The luxurious Four Seasons Hotel, more by Turks than foreigners (see p182) and have wireless formerly a prison (see p187) and tourists. Internet in all rooms.

Freshly fried fish sandwiches being prepared on a boat in Eminönü (see p208) WHERE TO STAY 181

SPECIAL LICENCE HOTELS atmos phere of parts of the city A number of the city’s old by saving old buildings have been reno- buildings from vated and transformed into demolition and hotels. However, due to the restoring them. nature of the buildings in Its work can be which they are housed, some seen particularly of these hotels cannot provide in the Special facilities such as lifts. They Licence hotels belong to a separate category, of Soğukçeşme the Special Licence hotel, and Sokağı (see p61). are under private management. Increasingly, Hotel roof terrace overlooking Sultanahmet The Special Licence hotels many of the city’s constitute some of Istanbul’s boutique-style hotels are facilities. While cheaper hotels most interesting and attractive choosing not to apply for usually have central heating hotels. They are often located official ratings or stars. This they are unlikely to have air in the residential streets of does not, however, imply any conditioning, but an electric historic areas, and lack of standards or fan may be provided. Some range from small, amenities. In fact, small hotels may not provide modestly priced these establishments hot water 24 hours a day. traditional wooden are contributing to houses to luxury the continually WHAT TO EXPECT Ottoman mansions. rising standards of Special Licence accommodation in All hotels listed in this book hotels, whether large the city. All have are comfortable and welcom- or small, are their own websites ing. Front desk staff usually generally of a high where you can take speak English, and will be stand ard. The a virtual tour, able to give information on authentic period compare prices sights and travel. decor of many of Latticed window of a and facilities, and Hotel rooms in Istanbul them gives even the Special Licence hotel make a booking. generally have two single larger ones a cosy beds, and enough space to atmosphere. A number of CHEAPER HOTELS add a third one if need be. If Special Licence hotels exist you want a double bed you only as a result of the Istanbul has plenty of cheap, should make this clear when strenuous efforts of the comfortable accommodation booking or checking in. Turkish Touring and which meets the standards of Most hotels with three or Automobile Club (the TTOK, the Turkish Ministry of more storeys will have a lift. see p245). Led by its former Culture and Tour ism. When There may not be a lift in a crusading director, Çelik choosing a cheaper hotel, Special Licence hotel, however, Gülersoy, it has successfully however, do not base your because of the problems of preserved the Ottoman decision on the façade or installing one in an older lobby, which may building. Facilities for wheel- look brand new. chair users are increasingly One-star hotels found in hotels. provide the most Noise can be a problem basic facilities, but even in some smart hotels, so often have rooms in busy areas choose a room with a private that doesn’t face on to a main shower and toilet. street. If you are not satisfied Two- and three-star with your room, you can hotels have more always ask for another. comfortable rooms Breakfast (see p194) is and usually a café included in the price of the or bar. Many three- room and typically consists star hotels offer of a generous open buffet, rooms with a TV including cold meats, fruits, and mini-bar. cereals and yoghurt. Many Guesthouses vary larger hotels have restaurants in terms of facilities. that serve à la carte meals. Most provide bed- Upmarket hotels have at least linen and towels, one dining room serving and the better ones evening meals, but some of will have rooms with the smaller, cheaper hotels do ensuite bathrooms. not. It is a good idea to check All should have when booking and confirm Yeşil Ev (see p187), a Special Licence hotel communal cooking by email or fax. 182 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

CHECKING OUT AND PAYING

Guests are expected to check out by midday, but hotels will usually keep lug- gage for collection later. All hotels accept the major credit cards, as well as Turkish lira and other currencies. VAT is always included in the room price. It is usual to leave a few dollars, or its equivalent, in the room for the cleaner, and to Reception desk at the Istanbul Hilton (see p190) give a tip to the receptionist to be divided among the staff. PRICES AND DISCOUNTS your choice during the busy Phone calls and mini-bar drinks season. You can book any can add to the size of your bill. Hotel prices are quoted in hotel listed in this guide euros and Turkish Lira (TL) direct ly, by telephone, fax CHILDREN and sometimes in US dollars. and e-mail. Many hotels Prices are per room not per also have their own website Children up to six years old person. All prices usually registration forms. You may are often not charged for include breakfast, and tax. be asked to give your credit rooms, and pay 50% until 12 Apart from top-class hotels, card details, which will years old. It is possible to which have guarantee your negotiate a discount for older standard prices reservation. If children who share a room that do not change you cannot find with their parents. Most hotels throughout the a place in any also have cots for babies. year, tariffs differ of the hotels that Some hotels arrange special according to the fall in your pre- entertainment for children. season. The busy ferred price range, The Swissôtel (see p190) season, when try one of the offers a weekend package. hotel prices tend established travel to be at their companies based HOSTELS highest, is from in Istanbul, such April to the end as Gazella Travel For those on a tight budget, of October. During Designer, Meptur, Istanbul has a number of the brief Christmas Plan Tours (see inexpensive hostels, mostly in and New Year Lounge area of the p228) or Vip the Sultanahmet area. A period, the higher Empress Zoe (see p185) Tourism. If you popular hostel in Istanbul is summer tariffs are arrive without the Sultan Hostel. This hostel applied. There are no single having reserved a room, the is right in the heart of the rooms, but all hotels offer a tourist information offices (see Sultanahmet district on single room rate of slightly p229) in the airport, Akbıyık Caddesi, close to more than half the price of Station, Sultanahmet Square or Haghia Sophia, Topkapı a double room. Karaköy International Maritime Palace and the Grand Bazaar. It is always worth Terminal will help you find a The hostel’s mission is to attempting to bargain with hotel, but they will not make provide accommodation that hotels, but do not expect to a reservation for you. is comfortable, stylish, get a discount. For longer stays of a week or more you may be able to get a reduction. Some hotels also offer discounts for Internet bookings, cash payments, or out-of-season stays. However, do not expect a room with any kind of a view if you have got it at a discount.

BOOKING A ROOM

While you will always be able to find a room of a reasonable standard, it is advisable to book in advance for the best hotels or those of Double room in the Special Licence Kariye Hotel (see p189) WHERE TO STAY 183

coast but situated DIRECTORY to the east of the Bosphorus is another TRAVEL AGENTS equally attractive and popular camp site, Gazella Travel Designer the Kumbaba Moteli, Cumhuriyet Cad Babil Sok 2, which is situated 1.2 Elemdağ. Tel (0212) 233 15 98 miles (2 km) outside . the resort of Şile www.gazella.com (see p158). This site Meptur is open between May Büyükdere Cad 26, Mecidiyeköy. Guests at a youth hostel in Istanbul and September, and Tel (0212) 275 02 50. the amenities it has www.meptur.com.tr convenient and affordable, to offer include hot showers which is great for younger and cooking facilities. Vip Tourism and more independent For further details, contact Tel (0212) 241 65 14. travellers on a restricted the Turkish Camping and www.viptourism.com.tr budget. It offers a variety of Caravanning Association, dormitory rooms with 6, 18 which is helpful and YOUTH HOSTELS and 26 beds, as well as single, informative. The association Orient Hostel double and triple rooms, also has a website with Akbıyık Cad 13, Sultanahmet. which are less crowded. The comprehensive listings of Map 3 E5 (5 E5). Sultan is a member of the sites throughout the country. Tel (0212) 517 94 93. International Youth Hostel www.orienthostel.com Federation (IYHF) and offers a discount for members. The Sultan Hostel hostel has a wealth of Akbıyık Cad 21, Sultanahmet. facilities, including a common Map 3 E5 (5 E5). room and library, a barbecue Tel (0212) 516 92 60. area, security lockers, a www.sultanhostel.com 24-hour reception, a luggage store and free Internet access. CAMPING There is also a travel agent who can help guests with Kumbaba Moteli Tel (0216) 711 50 38 travel arrangements and a Şile. . (0216) 711 48 51 currency exchange. On the Fax . same street, the Orient Hostel Londra Kamping is a modern youth hostel with Londra Asfaltı, Bakırköy. excellent facilities, including a Tel (0212) 560 42 00. rooftop café, a bar and a safe. Fax (0212) 559 34 38. In the evening, a programme View over Dolmabahçe Mosque of entertainment, including from the Swissôtel (see p190) Turkish Camping and belly dancing, is offered. Caravanning Association The tour operator Gençtur SELF-CATERING Feliz Sok, 52 Kartaltepe Mah, (see p229) is also affiliated to Bakırköy. the IYHF and can provide Istanbul has a number of Tel (0212) 662 46 15. detailed information on apartment hotels located www.kampkaravan.org additional hostels in the city. near various central business and residential districts, SELF-CATERING CAMPING providing fully furnished Akmerkez Residence apartments for those who Akmerkez Shopping & Business Camping and caravanning in prefer more homely Centre, Etiler. have steadily gained surroundings. The Akmerkez Tel (0212) 282 01 20. Residence Apart Hotel popularity in recent years. , which www.akmerkez.com.tr There is an ever-increasing is mostly used by business- variety of excellent camping men, is in the upmarket Century 21 places with self-catering Akmerkez shopping mall Topçular Kişla Cad 5, Rami-Eyüp. facilities open in the summer in Etiler (see p211). Its Tel (0212) 493 26 00. season, which lasts from luxuriously decorated flats www.century21.com.tr May until October. Londra have air-conditioning and Entes Apart Hotel Kamping is open throughout all domestic appliances. İpek Sok 19, Taksim. Map 7 E4. the year. It has washing and The Entes Apart Hotel has Tel (0212) 293 22 08. cooking facilities, a fast-food compact modern apartments. www.entesapart.com restaurant, bar, pool table and Global real estate franchises football pitch. As well as like Century 21 and Remax Remax providing camping facilities, it can assist in finding long- Tel (0212) 232 48 20. also has two-room bungalows or short-term rental www.remax.com.tr for rent. On the Black Sea accommodation.