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Chapter 1 Discovering the Best of

In This Chapter Searching out the top historical sites and attractions Finding the best places to explore Native American culture Participating in Arizona’s myriad activities Seeing glorious Western film–style landscapes Shopping for the top arts and crafts Discovering the best historic lodgings Dining at Arizona’s top Southwest restaurants

icture a land of silent, manly men and spirited, sun-worn women P leaving clouds of dust in the wake of their pickups as they hightail it through rugged canyon lands and parched deserts. Of noble braves in touch with Earth’s ancient wisdom. Of lonely Mexican cantinas and run- down roadside cafes . . .

Then give it a name: Arizona.

Okay. You’ve obviously watched too many Westerns and pickup-truck commercials.

Me, too. Before I moved to Tucson, nearly a decade and a half ago, I had many of the same preconceptions about the state. As it COPYRIGHTEDhappens, the men in Arizona are farMATERIAL more likely to golf, hike, or mountain bike than to rope cattle, and the sassiest females are generally from New York City, like me. Women here know better than to go out- doors without slathering on sunscreen, and if their skin gets parched, they head for the nearest spa. More contrasts to your possible precon- ceived notions: Arizona’s is lush with vegetation, much of the income of the southern Native American nations comes from casi- nos, and a long line often forms for the best Mexican restaurants, which tend to be in lively downtown barrios. 05_043075 ch01.qxp10/18/062:01PMPage10 10 Arizona

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HHumphreysumphreys Pe aPeakk NEW MEXICO CALIF. KAIBABKAIBAB N ANATIONALTIONAL FORE FORESTST LaughlinLaughlin 68 40 KKingmaningman 40 BBullheadullhead WilliamsWilliams FlagstaffFlaggssttaafff PAINTED 40 CCityity PRESCOTTPRESCOTT DESERT MMeteoreteor 95 NATIONALNATIONAL 17 CCraterrater WinslowWinslow PetrifiedPetrified Fo Forestrest 40 PRESCOTTPRESCOTT 89 FORESTFOREST SedonaSedoonnaa HHolbrookolbrook NationalNational Pa Parkrk NeedlesNeedles ALT 179 COCONINOCOCONINO 191 NATIONALNATIONAL 89 93 NATIONALNATIONAL 87 377 180 FORESTFOREST JeromeJerome 279 FORESTFOREST 77 St.St. JJohnsohns Lake PrescottPrescott 260 260 LakeLake HHavasuavasu C iCityty APACHE-SITGREAVESAPACHE-SITGREAVES Havasu 69 CampCamp V Verdeerde NATIONALNATIONAL FO RFORESTSESTS 61 180

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12 Part I: Introducing Arizona

But back to those preconceived notions. The Arizona scenery is indeed as spectacular as anything you’d ever imagine (more than 80 percent of the state is undeveloped), ancient traditions are alive and well on the Indian reservations, and several cattle ranches are still active — some even rent out their rooms.

And Arizona has long stretches of open roads and a highway speed limit of 75 mph. Zooming down those wide stretches of macadam with your favorite tunes blaring on the radio, you may well experience the freedom and exhilaration you view in Hollywood versions of the Southwest.

This chapter, then, offers some of the best experiences that the state has to offer, proof that the reality of Arizona is as good as — in some places even better than — the fantasy.

Best Historic Attractions Over the centuries, Arizona has been home to conquistadors, missionar- ies, miners, and a variety of American Indian tribes — all of whom left their marks on the landscape. Today, these historic sites are among the state’s biggest tourism draws.

Taliesin West (North Scottsdale): Who says historic sites have to be really old? In the urban sprawl of greater Phoenix, Frank Lloyd Wright’s former home and architectural studio stands out for its integration of architecture and nature. See Chapter 11. Mission San Xavier del Bac: This Spanish Moorish–style church is not only lovely, but, as an active Native American parish, it serves as a testament to Arizona’s rich living history. See Chapter 13. Bisbee: The entire hilly town — a kind of San Francisco in miniature — gives visitors a more charming glimpse of Arizona’s mining history than one may expect. See Chapter 15. Tumacácori National Historical Park (Tumacácori): The haunting ruins of a mission, the fine historical displays, not to mention the tranquility of the gardens and grassy courtyard, all make this a prime spot to soak in the past. See Chapter 15. Jerome: Its perch on Cleopatra Hill, ramshackle buildings, and array of mining exhibits make this one-time ghost town a must-see. See Chapter 16. Sharlot Hall Museum: The territorial history of Arizona is high- lighted in this array of historic structures, a collection put together by a pioneering woman. See Chapter 16. Grand Canyon Village Historical District: Tear your eyes away from nature for an hour or so to explore what man — and woman (architect Mary Colter, to be specific) — wrought at the edge of the abyss. See Chapter 17. 05_043075 ch01.qxp 10/18/06 2:01 PM Page 13

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Riordan Mansion State Historic Park: For insight into Arizona’s logging history, you can’t beat this sprawling home built by two lumber-baron brothers. See Chapter 17. Holbrook: Dinosaurs, wigwams, neon signs . . . you won’t find a better place in Arizona to view classic Route 66 kitsch. See Chapter 18.

Hubbell Trading Post National Historic Site: The former home of trader Lorenzo Hubbell is among the many lures of this still-active trading post. See Chapter 18. Best Places to Explore Native American Culture From A.D. 200 to A.D. 1300, Native American tribes had this country pretty much to themselves, sharing it only with the animals that freely roamed the land. The evidence of their civilizations is found throughout the state.

The Heard Museum (Downtown Phoenix): Combining historic dis- plays with exhibits of contemporary Native American works, this world-class museum is a must for anyone interested in Southwest Indian culture. See Chapter 11. Casa Grande Ruins National Monument: If not Arizona’s largest Native American ruins, these are among the most elusive. What is that tall building anyway — and what’s with all those fire pits? See Chapter 14. Amerind Foundation Museum (Dragoon): If you like your muse- ums compact and in scenic settings, don’t pass up this small collec- tion of Native American artifacts. See Chapter 15. Montezuma Castle National Monument: An easy detour off Highway 17 is rewarded by the sight of a couple of well-preserved ancient apartment houses and, nearby, a dazzlingly blue, spring-fed pool. See Chapter 16. Museum of Northern Arizona: Find out about the native peoples of the Colorado Plateau in this historic building, which hosts a fine series of Native American markets in summer. See Chapter 17. Walnut Canyon National Monument: Here you have an opportu- nity to clamber among intact Sinagua ruins, nestled in a beautiful piney canyon. See Chapter 17. Canyon de Chelly National Monument: The Navajos have steward- ship over — and dwell in — these spectacular canyons, which also host the former homes of ancestral Puebloans. See Chapter 18. Hopi Mesas: Talk about living history. The Hopi people live on the three mesas that their ancestors settled centuries ago, and they 05_043075 ch01.qxp 10/18/06 2:01 PM Page 14

14 Part I: Introducing Arizona

still observe many of the same customs as their forebears. See Chapter 18. Navajo National Monument: A gorgeous, serene setting and dra- matic cliff dwellings — Native American sites don’t get much better than this. See Chapter 18. Best Activities The state’s warm, sunny climate is an outdoors-lover’s dream. Even the winter cold in the northern regions of the state isn’t all that cold — but it’s cold enough to make Flagstaff a winter sports mecca.

Golfing in Greater Phoenix: If you’re a duffer, you won’t find a better collection of challenging desert courses than in the Valley of the Sun. See Chapter 11. Driving the Apache Trail: Motoring through the long and winding — and oh-so-scenic — road that takes you through the Superstition Mountains is an adventure in itself. See Chapter 12. Horseback riding in Tucson: No other city affords so many opportunities to canter among lush stands of saguaro cacti. See Chapter 13. Stargazing at Kitt Peak National Observatory: Star light, star bright — Kitt Peak’s dinner/observing program is heavenly. See Chapter 14. Observing hummingbirds in southern Arizona: Even those who find bird-watching tedious are enchanted by the tiny critters flitting around this region’s nature preserves. See Chapter 15. Mountain biking in Sedona: Sedona’s many bike-rental shops attest to the allure of fat-tiring among the red rocks. See Chapter 16. Riding the Verde Canyon Railroad: Eagles and wildflowers and canyons, oh my! You never know what kind of show Mother Nature will put on for you. See Chapter 16. Rafting the Colorado River in and around the Grand Canyon: The surrounding canyon walls are spectacular, and you don’t have to white-knuckle it in whitewater — gentle float trips are also an option. See Chapter 17. Descending into one of the slot canyons near Page: Whether it’s the popular Antelope Canyon or the more remote Canyon X, this region’s skinny, dune-formed caves are a photographer’s dream. See Chapter 18. Hiking Canyon de Chelly’s White Horse Ruin Trail: The only trek into the canyon you can take without a Navajo guide rewards your (modest) efforts with an ancient cliff dwelling at the trail’s end. See Chapter 18. 05_043075 ch01.qxp 10/18/06 2:01 PM Page 15

Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Arizona 15 Best Places to See Western Film–Style Landscapes The Westerns of film directors like John Ford are synonymous with the tumbleweed desert landscapes found in Arizona. See them for yourself at the following locations.

: The array of desert specimens in this off-the-beaten-path preserve is eye-popping, as are the sand- stone boulders that serve as the plants’ backdrop. See Chapter 12. Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum: You see impressive spreads of desert in many parts of southern Arizona, but you’re never guaran- teed a peek at the fauna that dwell in them — except in this won- derful zoo. See Chapter 13. : Gigantic saguaro cacti grow almost exclu- sively in Arizona and northern Mexico, and you find no better place to view them than in this prickly preserve. See Chapter 13. Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument: The skinny-armed cousin of the saguaro is the star of this desert park near the U.S./Mexico border and the Tohono O’odham Indian reservation. See Chapter 14. Chiricahua National Monument (Dos Cabezas Route): You’ll be bowled over by the weirdly balanced boulders of the “Land of the Standing-Up Rocks,” the rugged terrain where Cochise and his band of Apaches hid out from the U.S. cavalry. See Chapter 15. Red rocks of Sedona: The startlingly vermillion rocks and mesas around Sedona have inspired artists and filmmakers from the 1930s on. See Chapter 16. The Grand Canyon: Celluloid can’t fully capture this sight’s gaping grandeur — probably for the best, because no actor could compete with this scene stealer. See Chapter 17. Canyon de Chelly National Monument: These sheer cliffs painted with “desert varnish” — a blue-black veneer formed by seeping water — are among the most awe-inspiring sights in the Southwest. See Chapter 18. Lake Powell: Adding water to Glen Canyon only enhanced its appeal, although the submerged rock formations seem a bit surreal. See Chapter 18. Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park: The favorite “set” of film- maker John Ford, these strangely shaped spires and mesas have come to symbolize the West for generations of cineastes. See Chapter 18. 05_043075 ch01.qxp 10/18/06 2:01 PM Page 16

16 Part I: Introducing Arizona

The Painted Desert: Petrified Forest National Park provides a good showcase for one of the West’s softer landscapes, with its delicate shades of pink, dun, and sienna. See Chapter 18. Best Places to Shop for Arts and Crafts Artisans and craftspeople flock to Arizona as much for the quality of light and natural beauty as for the relatively inexpensive rents. Their wares, along with the distinctive crafts made by Native American tribes, make Arizona a rich source of original American artwork.

Downtown Scottsdale: Fans of Western art, of both the cowboy and American Indian variety, won’t find much better pickin’s than on thoroughfares like 5th Avenue and Main Street. See Chapter 11. The Heard Museum gift shop (downtown Phoenix): Here you find an excellent selection of Native American crafts at reasonable prices (the artists aren’t charged a gallery fee). See Chapter 11. The Lost Barrio: Southwest and ethnic furnishings and accessories are the focus of this collection of shops in an old warehouse dis- trict in Tucson. See Chapter 13. Old Town Artisans: The work of local, regional, and Latin American artists is showcased at these shops in a historic building occupying an entire city block in downtown Tucson. See Chapter 13. Kitt Peak National Observatory gift shop: Because the observa- tory is on land owned by the Tohono O’odham Indians, its visitor center carries many of the fine baskets made by tribal members. See Chapter 14. Nogales: Bargaining is part of the adventure of shopping for crafts in this Mexican border town. See Chapter 15. Tubac: Arizona’s oldest European settlement is now a haven for local artists and crafters — as well as importers of wares from Mexico. See Chapter 15. Jerome: The hippies who revived this one-time ghost town brought along their craftsy ways. Some of the shops lining Jerome’s two main streets have gone upscale, but others retain an endearing quirkiness. See Chapter 16. Tlaquepaque Arts & Crafts Village: Practically all of Sedona is an arts and crafts zone, but you find the greatest concentration of high-quality boutiques in this charming Mexican-village replica. See Chapter 16. Cameron Trading Post: You may be overwhelmed by the huge array of crafts at this Navajo-owned gift shop/grocery near the east entrance of the Grand Canyon’s South Rim. See Chapter 17. 05_043075 ch01.qxp 10/18/06 2:01 PM Page 17

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Hubbell Trading Post National Historic Site: Come here for one of the best selections of antique Navajo rugs in the state; also watch new rugs being woven. See Chapter 18. Second Mesa: A smattering of crafts shops on Second Mesa, includ- ing the excellent Tsakurshovi, make this the prime place on the Hopi reservation to find katsina dolls and silver inlay jewelry. See Chapter 18.

Best Historic Lodgings Many of the state’s historic properties have survived and been reborn as vacation lodgings. The following are my picks for the best in the state.

Arizona Biltmore Resort & Spa (Phoenix/Camelback Corner): This Frank Lloyd Wright–inspired resort, nearly 80 years old, continues to add amenities without subtracting character. See Chapter 11. Camelback Inn, a JW Marriott Resort & Spa (Scottsdale): Scottsdale’s first luxury resort has retained its old-fashioned appeal while keeping up with the times (most recently by rebuilding its excellent spa). See Chapter 11. Royal Palms Resort and Spa (Phoenix): Built as a winter getaway for a wealthy couple, this intimate property still fulfills that func- tion, although now more upscale pairs can come to play. See Chapter 11. Kay El Bar Ranch: This dude ranch remains faithful to its historic Western roots but offers a touch of Hollywood glamour as well: Val Kilmer’s family owned the ranch for a spell, and little Val used to hang out with the horses. See Chapter 12. Arizona Inn: Tucson was a desert outpost when the Arizona Inn opened in 1930. Although the city is no longer primitive, this charming property still provides the same civility it afforded weary travelers in the past. See Chapter 13. Hacienda del Sol Guest Ranch Resort: A girls’ school turned dude ranch to the stars in the 1940s, this is now a scenic miniresort with artfully rustic rooms that offer all the creature comforts. See Chapter 13. The Royal Elizabeth Bed & Breakfast Inn: Lovers of Victoriana will adore these downtown Tucson digs, with immaculately maintained fittings and gorgeous antique furnishings. See Chapter 13. Westward Look Resort: Among the legacies of this property’s guest ranch past are spacious quarters designed for long-term stays, along with a generous spread of desert with great city views. See Chapter 13. 05_043075 ch01.qxp 10/18/06 2:01 PM Page 18

18 Part I: Introducing Arizona

Copper Queen (Bisbee): A holdover from Arizona’s days of mineral wealth, this hotel still offers lots of Old West charm. See Chapter 15. Tubac Golf Resort: Founded in 1959 by a group of investors that included crooner Bing Crosby, this gracious property sits on Arizona’s first Spanish land grant. Conferences are held in an 1880s hacienda. See Chapter 15. Hassayampa Inn: Prescott’s premier historic hotel helped usher in Arizona’s auto age with its modern covered driveway. Today’s visi- tors like the fact that it’s within easy walking distance of the town’s Courthouse Square. See Chapter 16. El Tover Hotel: The grandest of the Grand Canyon lodgings closed briefly for a makeover in its 100th anniversary year, 2005, and emerged better than ever, with accommodations as appealing as its public areas. See Chapter 17. Grand Canyon Lodge: It would be hard to find a better complement to the woodsy beauty of the North Rim than this impressive lime- stone-and-log structure flanked by rustic cabins. See Chapter 17. Goulding’s Lodge: Ever since Harry Goulding brought director John Ford out to his place, it has been a favorite of filmmakers, who like its proximity to Monument Valley as well as the modern con- veniences subtly incorporated over the years. See Chapter 18. La Posada: Resuscitated in the 1990s, the hotel that architect Mary Colter created in Winslow in 1930 just keeps getting better, as the gardens mature and more original fittings are restored. See Chapter 18. Thunderbird Lodge: This hotel, the only one inside Canyon de Chelly National Monument, features a dining room that used to be a trading post and cottonwoods planted in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps. See Chapter 18.

Best Places to Savor Southwest Flavors New Southwestern cuisine is the nouveau cousin of the standard Mexican/ cowboy fare traditionally found in these parts. But you won’t have trouble finding standout versions of the latter in restaurants throughout the state. Here are my recommended places to dine.

Kai (near Phoenix): Here, dazzling New Southwestern recipes incor- porate traditional ingredients grown on the reservation of the Pima and Maricopa Indians. See Chapter 11. Los Sombreros (Scottsdale): This lively eatery departs from typical northern Mexico fare to range all over our southern neighbor’s map. See Chapter 11. 05_043075 ch01.qxp 10/18/06 2:01 PM Page 19

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Roaring Fork (Scottsdale): Innovative takes on steak and other Western menu staples make chef Robert McGrath’s restaurant a favorite with Valley foodies and meat-and-potato types alike. See Chapter 11. Café Poca Cosa: For far-flung regional dishes not found in most of Arizona’s Mexican restaurants, you can’t beat this colorful down- town Tucson cafe. See Chapter 13. Janos/J Bar: The food at upscale Janos has a French accent, while that at more casual J Bar speaks with Mexican tones. These adja- cent restaurants share the talents of Southwest cooking guru Janos Wilder. See Chapter 13. La Roca el Balcon (Nogales, Mexico): Savory seafood and grilled meat dishes are among the offerings at this cavernous, romantic taverna. See Chapter 15. The Cowboy Club’s Silver Saddle Room: The rattlesnake brochettes at this haute-rustic eatery in Uptown Sedona may be gimmicky, but the ribs, steak, seafood — and even buffalo cuts — are seriously good. See Chapter 16. Cameron Trading Post dining room: Under the pressed tin roof of this historic dining room, you find the best Navajo taco in Arizona — huge and made with fresh hot fry bread. See Chapter 17. Romo’s Cafe: The New Mexican–style food at this low-key Holbrook cafe will bring happiness if you’re a fan of sopaipillas (fried bread sweetened with honey), red and green chile sauce, and other imports from the Land of Enchantment. See Chapter 18. The Turquoise Room: Drawing on the menu of the Santa Fe rail- road’s luxury dining car and on Arizona regional specialties, the restaurant at La Posada in Winslow features everything from Hopi piki bread to chile-cherry duckling. See Chapter 18.