DOCSLIB.ORG

Circle Update October 2016 in THIS ISSUE: • Chakana Tasting • Oregon’S Eyrie • Château Loudenne • Sierra De Salamanca • Update on Szekszárd Circle Update October 2016

Total Page：16

File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb

Download full-text PDF Read full-text
Circle Update October 2016 in THIS ISSUE: • Chakana Tasting • Oregon’S Eyrie • Château Loudenne • Sierra De Salamanca • Update on Szekszárd Circle Update October 2016 Circle Update October 2016 IN THIS ISSUE: • Chakana tasting • Oregon’s Eyrie • Château Loudenne • Sierra de Salamanca • Update on Szekszárd Circle Update October 2016 and-coming Spanish region of Sierra de Salamanca to meet the local heroes reviving the Rufete grape variety. Looking From the editor: Wink Lorch back in time, John Salvi MW writes about the people who made Château Loudenne a home from home for the British wine trade and looking forward, Stephen Quinn meets the couple behind a young vineyard in Norway, who offer It’s all about the people customers the chance to stay overnight in a barrel. Within our own Circle, I want to thank all those who have wine loving friend was visiting recently and observed taken the time to contribute to this issue including Rebecca A that places, specifically wine regions, are linked to their Murphy from Texas and Raymond Blake from Ireland for heroes. We went on to discuss the exciting young, up-and- sharing their stories in the ‘meet the member’ feature. My coming heroes who emerge, especially those who while thanks go also to this issue’s featured photographer Steven revering the heroes who went before them, push out the Morris, whose portraits adorn our covers and whose 30- boat to make their own mark. On a recent visit to Oregon, The stress for wine producers of worrying about the year career is now evolving into shooting images by drone. this was evident not only with the well-established Eyrie weather hazards each year is not something all of us Special thanks to deputy editor Robert Smyth, who has family, who I feature in this issue, but also with the people could bear – for me they are all heroes for just coping with worked with me on this, our fourth issue of Circle Update behind considerably newer wineries. As much as we might that and getting on with it year after year. As so often this together. write earnestly about special terroir, obscure grapes or the century, producers across Europe have endured yet another As you will see from Colin Hampden-White’s chairman’s latest winemaking fad, when we question why we are in this challenging growing season in 2016, though fortunately for report, there will be many changes for the Circle in 2017, business, we all know it’s all about the people. most regions it was saved by excellent harvest conditions. among them a change to how we share news and features Most of us are motivated by the people we meet who Just one example is related in Caroline Henry’s on-the- within and outside the CWW. January will see the last issue work in wine. That motivation comes from the exchanges ground harvest report about how the growers in the of Circle Update in this format, which has remained more- we have, the unexpected friendships we forge across southern Champagne region of the Aube have coped after or-less the same since Liz Sagues, as former deputy editor, international boundaries and in different languages, plus a particularly difficult spring and summer. designed it in 2008 under the long editorial reign of Jim the mutual respect we have for each other’s jobs within this Elsewhere in this issue, Robert Smyth meets some Budd. Please send your contributions for the January issue world of wine. Indeed, people are often considered as an of those who are driving forward the red wine region of by 11th December and let’s say goodbye to Update with a essential constituent of terroir. Szekszárd in Hungary, while Amaya Cervera visits the up- bumper issue. Circle Update: the newsletter of the Circle of Wine Writers Published four times a year: January, April, July and October Circle President: Rosemary George MW Editor: Wink Lorch [email protected] Officers: Colin Hampden-White (Chairman) +44 7941 126747 [email protected] Deputy editor: Robert Smyth [email protected] Keith Grainger (Treasurer) Circle Update is available to external subscribers for £60 a year. The Circle’s Vivienne Franks (Secretary) +44 208 958 3319 [email protected] membership list is available in various media from £95. A special joint package of Kathy Burk (Membership Secretary) [email protected] the membership list with frequent emailed updates through the year and a year’s Committee members: Winifred Bowman, Caroline Henry, Tanya Mann, Steven subscription to Circle Update is available from £135. These options can be viewed Morris, Helena Nicklin, Angela Reddin (tastings co-ordinator), Liz Sagues, at www.circleofwinewriters.org. For more information, please contact Andrea Simon Woolf (webmaster – [email protected]) Warren (see right). Membership enquiries should also be directed to her. Administrator: Andrea Warren +44 1753 882320 [email protected] 2 Circle Update October 2016 Contents October 2016 Issue 128 Features About CWW members p9 p16 CWW Chakana tasting Membership changes and news 5 by Beverley Blanning MW 9 Forthcoming CWW events 11 CWW pre-BYOB Balfour tasting Meet the member: by Christos Ioannou 11 Rebecca Murphy 12 Rufete is the key to Sierra de Salamanca, Raymond Blake 14 says Amaya Cervera 16 p18 p20 Robert Smyth finds much to applaud at the Regulars Szekszárd festival 18 From the chairman 4 At Eyrie in Oregon it’s not necessarily like Featured photographer 8 father like son, discovers Wink Lorch 20 Book news and reviews 28 John Salvi MW reminisces about a British Forthcoming wine events 32 home from home at Château Loudenne 22 p22 Caroline Henry reports on Champagne’s Front cover: Zack Charilaou, wine director at p27 Côte des Bar harvest 24 M restaurants in London. In Norway, they do it in a barrel, finds Back cover: Mike Brown, p28 Stephen Quinn 25 winemaker at Gemtree, Australia. Photos by Steven The VDP tasting in Germany is planned Morris, this issue’s featured to a tee, thinks Richard Bampfield MW 27 photographer, who also took the portrait of Hugh Johnson on the right. Membership of the Circle of Wine Writers (www.circleofwinewriters.org) is open to accredited wine journalists and Members who wish to send copies of articles in Circle Update to non- other professionals communicating in the media about wine. As such, it is editorial policy to give the editor and subscribers are requested not to forward the full issue. Pdf ‘offprints’ of each writer for Circle Update freedom to express his or her views. It must therefore be stressed that the Circle as specific articles are freely available from the editor, Wink Lorch. an organisation does not formally associate itself with the opinions expressed by contributors, except where this is specifically stated. While Circle Update is copyright of the Circle of Wine Writers, copyright of each individual contribution remains with its author © Circle of Wine Writers 2016 www.circleofwinewriters.org (writer or photographer). 3 Circle Update October 2016 From the chairman: Colin Hampden-White Our plans for 2017 subscription (to non-members) as part of the website. Friends of the Circle Members will be able to update their profiles whenever they Very soon we will have a new website, a new online Circle wish and both members and subscribers will be able to publication as well as a new method for our supporters to download the membership list from the website at any time. interact with our members. This brings me to Circle Update. Following much debate, As both our subscription service to access Update’s we have decided that Update needs modernisation and the replacement and the membership list will be online, updated January issue will be the last pdf version. Exactly what form more regularly and more comprehensively than ever, there the newsletter will take online is still under discussion, and will be some changes to the service, too. Details will be we plan its new format to be ready in time for our next AGM announced shortly and the subscription package will include e live in changing times in 2016 and we need to and the London Wine Fair in May. the exciting addition of access to exclusive Circle tastings Wmove with them. With this in mind the committee has Update has been a unique publication which has served and events. Supporters and subscribers will be known as initiated a series of changes and improvements to the way as a hugely useful and interesting resource for members ‘Friends of the Circle’ and will have their own section on our the Circle communicates, as outlined in my recent email to and subscribers. I would like to thank the many people website where they will be listed. We would like to thank members. Particularly for the benefit of our subscribers, I who have made this possible and highlight a few stars. all our subscribers for their support over the years. I hope will use this column to explain briefly some of our plans. Our current editor Wink Lorch, with the help of her deputy that you will approve of our changes and enjoy our new Our new website is nearly complete. It will be launched Robert Smyth, has created a publication that has evolved subscription service. at the Christmas party on 1st December at the same time and progressed, and we owe them both huge thanks. There I hope you enjoy reading the final issues of Circle as the unveiling of a brand new logo that is clean and sleek, are two other people who have worked on Update for many Update and continue to enjoy reading what will come in and links the world of wine and spirits. years who I would also like to thank: Liz Sagues as deputy the future.
Load more

Recommended publications
  • 49. Präsenz-Weinauktion 4. Juni 2016
    Cover_Juni_2016_Layout 1 16.05.16 17:36 Seite 1 ## Weinvorspann_Juni_2016_Weinvorspann 16.05.16 17:26 Seite 1 Online-Vinothek Raritäten Wein- und Champagnerankauf Events Lagerservice www.winespecials.de | +49 (0) 70 22 - 99 91 14 Weinvorspann_Juni_2016_Weinvorspann 16.05.16 17:26 Seite 2 PRÄSENZ- 49. AUKTION ERLESENER WEINE& SPIRITUOSEN SAMSTAG 4. JUNI AB 12 UHR Weinvorspann_Juni_2016_Weinvorspann 16.05.16 17:26 Seite 3 49. SOMMER-WEINAUKTION AM 4. JUNI 2016 AB 12 UHR Das waren ja frostige Pfingsten — den Eisheiligen sei Dank! Verzweifeln Sie aber bitte nicht. Wir versuchen zumindest Alles, um das vinophile Herz wieder auf Betriebstemperatur zu bringen. Eine beachtliche Weinauktion, gespickt mit hochwertigen, interessanten und auch seltenen Weinen, wartet schon auf Sie: Ein süd- deutscher Bordeaux Keller mit phantastischen Altweinraritäten, eine tolle Sassicaia Sammlung, eine USA Einlieferung mit allein 40 Fla- schen Sine Qua Non, eine einzigartige rote und weiße Burgunder-Kollektion, sowie der letzte Teil unserer Champagnerkollektion eines Münchner Gentleman's! 1176 Lots warten am 4. Juni auf Sie – lassen Sie sich überraschen: VIEL SPASS BEIM SCHMÖKERN DURCH 1176 LOTS & VIEL GLÜCK BEIM ERSTEIGERN — LOS GEHT‘S: Rote Bordeaux ab 1899 einzeln und in OHKs, Ausone, Branaire Ducru, Calon Segur, Canon, Canon La Gaffeliere, Cheval Blanc, Clinet, Cos D'Estournel, D'Armailhac, Ducru Beaucaillou, Figeac, Giscours, Grand Puy Lacoste, Gruaud Larose, Haut Brion, La Conseillante, La Fleur de Gay, La Mission Haut Brion, La Mondotte, La Tour Haut Brion, Lafite Rothschild, Lafleur, Latour, L’Eglise Clinet, L’Evangile, Leoville Barton, Leoville Las Cases, Leoville Poyferre, Lynch Bages, Margaux, Montrose, Mouton Rothschild, Palmer, Pape Clement, Pavie, Petrus, Pichon Baron, Pichon Comtesse, Pontet Canet, Sociando Mallet, Talbot, Troplong Mondot, Trotanoy & Vieux Château Certan.
    [Show full text]
  • 16. Präsenz Weinauktion September 2008
    Einband A16.qxd:Einband A8 fertig 24.08.2008 19:25 Uhr Seite 1 Online WeinauktionPräsenz Weinauktion Online Weinshop Wein Vermittlung Beachten Sie unseren Direktverkauf von Weinen aus Kommissionsbeständen. Gerne beraten wir Sie telefonisch unter den folgenden Nummern T +49 (0) 89 678 055 55 oder T +49 (0) 89 678 055 66 WeinvorspannSept_08.qxd:Weinvorspann_sept06 24.08.2008 23:55 Uhr Seite 1 UNSERE SEPTEMBER-AUKTION 2008 VEREHRTE(R) WEINFREUND(IN), HÖHER, WEITER, BESSER, LECKERER! WILLKOMMEN ZU HAUSE. WIR HOFFEN, SIE HABEN DEN SOMMER ERHOLSAM VERBRACHT UND SIND WOHLBEHALTEN AUS DEM URLAUB ZURÜCKGEKEHRT. AUCH UNS HAT DIESER SOMMER ZU HÖCHSTLEISTUNGEN ANGESPORNT. DEN ZU HAUSE GEBLIE- BENEN HABEN WIR IM JULI UND AUCH IM AUGUST DIE DURSTSTRECKE MIT ZWEI SCHÖNEN, HOCHWERTIGEN ONLINEAUKTIONEN VERSÜSST. AN DIESER STELLE VIELEN DANK FÜR DIE AUCH FÜR UNS ÜBERRASCHEND HOHE BETEILIGUNG IN DIESEM „SOMMERLOCH“. OFFENBAR HAT DER OLYMPISCHE GEDANKE EBENFALLS UNSERE EINLIEFERER UND UNSERE BELEGSCHAFT ZU NEUEN BESTLEISTUNGEN MOTIVIERT. SELBST UNSERE GAUMEN SIND OB DER WUNDERVOLLEN NEUEN EINLIEFERUNGEN BEREITS HOCH ERFREUT. LASSEN SIE SICH ÜBERRA- SCHEN WAS DA AUF SIE WARTET. SOVIEL SEI VERRATEN: MEHR BORDEAUX ALS IN DIESEM KATALOG AUS VERNÜNFTIG GEPREISTEN, GUTEN JAHRGÄNGEN GAB ES BISHER NOCH NIE IN UNSEREN KATALOGEN. SCHLAGEN SIE DEN SUBSKRIPTIONSPREISEN EIN SCHNIPPCHEN. SIE HABEN DIESE SCHÖNEN SACHEN IM ÜBRIGEN UMGEHEND IN IHREM KELLER, DIE 2007ER KOMMEN ERST 2010 BEI IHNEN ZU HAUSE AN. IM SECHZEHNTEN KATALOG DER HERBSTAUKTION AM 13. SEPTEMBER 2008 WARTEN 1171 LOTS AUS GEPFLEGTEN KELLERN, NACHLÄSSEN UND SAMMLUNGEN AUF SIE. AUCH DIESMAL WURDE AUF GUTE QUALITÄT UND FAIRE PREISE WERT GELEGT. » Schöne weiße und rote Burgunder (Romanée Conti Richebourg 1958, Vandermeulen Romanée Conti 1923, Tâche 1928 von Chevillot, A.
    [Show full text]
  • A M D G Beaumont Union Review Winter 2020
    A M D G BEAUMONT UNION REVIEW WINTER 2020 As you well know a great deal of what I write in the REVIEW is past history and when I say past, it tends to be prior to the end of WW2. Beaumont certainly produced some remarkable people in that first 90 years which in itself was extraordinary for so small a school. Indeed, it is easy to be ―cocorrico‖ as there were so many. But what of ourselves now that the vast majority of OBs have now retired: have we continued their tradition? For a start society has changed, there has been considerable levelling of opportunity whatever certain politicians might say: competition to make one‘s mark has become much harder. In the 19th Century your family could greatly influence your advancement although in this country being a Catholic was a considerable disadvantage and blocked many a career. Much changed between the Wars and there is no greater example of this than Noel Browne from the workhouse to Irish Government Minister. But of the last 70 years if you think back to your own contemporaries, it is remarkable how many have earned recognition in one field or another and made a significant contribution to society. It was brought home to me by the deaths of Olly Oliver, Michael O‘Sullivan, John Okell and Ludo de Vleeshauwer. When Olly died, the flag flew at half-mast on the Council buildings and for Judge Michael people lined the streets as his cortege passed to show their respect, John‘s contribution to Anglo-Burmese relations has been unique and there have been many tributes to Ludo in the Belgian Press.
    [Show full text]
  • VIEW from the CELLAR by John Gilman
    VIEW FROM THE CELLAR By John Gilman May-June 2016 Number Sixty-Three Mount Eden Vineyards’ Utterly Brilliant Santa Cruz Mountain Wines. (pages 1-32) Recently-Tasted Right Bank Gems (2008- 1947, With Right Bank Vintage Guide). (pages 33-59) The Méo Family’s Superb Example of Clos de Vougeot. (pages 60-68) Taurasi- Today’s Answer To What Italian Region Will Replicate, In the 21 st Century, Barolo’s Buying Opportunity Of Thirty Years Ago? (pages 69-94) A Very Deep Vertical of Château Beaucastel’s Hommage de Jacques Perrin. (pages 95-100) The Bi-Annual Champagne Report- Summer 2016. (pages 101-162) Coming Attractions Round Two of Kalin Cellars- America’s Great Iconoclast Traditionalist. A Vertical Report on Domaine Dujac’s Stellar Clos de la Roche. The 2015 Vintage In Beaujolais. Checking In Again On the Underrated 1981 Bordeaux Vintage at Age Thirty-Five. Richard Olney’s Extraordinary Life In Wine. The 1986 Bordeaux Vintage Starts to Seriously Stir at Age Thirty. The Very Promising La Ragnaie Brunello di Montalcino. The Annual Loire Valley Report, More Mâconnais Wines, Ric Forman, Gérard Boulay’s Lovely Chavignol Sancerres, A Taste For Campania’s Beautiful and Ageworthy White Wines, Château La Lagune, François Cotat, The Hill of Corton, Cathy Corison, Château Ausone, More Off the Beaten-Path Italian Wines, Bruno Paillard, Old German Wines in Bottle, The 2015 Burgundy Vintage and Château Musar. View From the Cellar is published bi-monthly by John Gilman, who is solely responsible for its content. Electronic subscriptions are available for $120 per year ($220 for two years), available at www.viewfromthecellar.com.
    [Show full text]