Circle Update October 2016 IN THIS ISSUE: • Chakana tasting • Oregon’s Eyrie • Château Loudenne • Sierra de Salamanca • Update on Szekszárd Circle Update October 2016 and-coming Spanish region of Sierra de Salamanca to meet the local heroes reviving the Rufete grape variety. Looking From the editor: Wink Lorch back in time, John Salvi MW writes about the people who made Château Loudenne a home from home for the British wine trade and looking forward, Stephen Quinn meets the couple behind a young vineyard in Norway, who offer It’s all about the people customers the chance to stay overnight in a barrel. Within our own Circle, I want to thank all those who have wine loving friend was visiting recently and observed taken the time to contribute to this issue including Rebecca A that places, specifically wine regions, are linked to their Murphy from Texas and Raymond Blake from Ireland for heroes. We went on to discuss the exciting young, up-and- sharing their stories in the ‘meet the member’ feature. My coming heroes who emerge, especially those who while thanks go also to this issue’s featured photographer Steven revering the heroes who went before them, push out the Morris, whose portraits adorn our covers and whose 30- boat to make their own mark. On a recent visit to Oregon, The stress for wine producers of worrying about the year career is now evolving into shooting images by drone. this was evident not only with the well-established Eyrie weather hazards each year is not something all of us Special thanks to deputy editor Robert Smyth, who has family, who I feature in this issue, but also with the people could bear – for me they are all heroes for just coping with worked with me on this, our fourth issue of Circle Update behind considerably newer wineries. As much as we might that and getting on with it year after year. As so often this together. write earnestly about special terroir, obscure grapes or the century, producers across Europe have endured yet another As you will see from Colin Hampden-White’s chairman’s latest winemaking fad, when we question why we are in this challenging growing season in 2016, though fortunately for report, there will be many changes for the Circle in 2017, business, we all know it’s all about the people. most regions it was saved by excellent harvest conditions. among them a change to how we share news and features Most of us are motivated by the people we meet who Just one example is related in Caroline Henry’s on-the- within and outside the CWW. January will see the last issue work in wine. That motivation comes from the exchanges ground harvest report about how the growers in the of Circle Update in this format, which has remained more- we have, the unexpected friendships we forge across southern Champagne region of the Aube have coped after or-less the same since Liz Sagues, as former deputy editor, international boundaries and in different languages, plus a particularly difficult spring and summer. designed it in 2008 under the long editorial reign of Jim the mutual respect we have for each other’s jobs within this Elsewhere in this issue, Robert Smyth meets some Budd. Please send your contributions for the January issue world of wine. Indeed, people are often considered as an of those who are driving forward the red wine region of by 11th December and let’s say goodbye to Update with a essential constituent of terroir. Szekszárd in Hungary, while Amaya Cervera visits the up- bumper issue. Circle Update: the newsletter of the Circle of Wine Writers Published four times a year: January, April, July and October Circle President: Rosemary George MW Editor: Wink Lorch [email protected] Officers: Colin Hampden-White (Chairman) +44 7941 126747 [email protected] Deputy editor: Robert Smyth [email protected] Keith Grainger (Treasurer) Circle Update is available to external subscribers for £60 a year. The Circle’s Vivienne Franks (Secretary) +44 208 958 3319 [email protected] membership list is available in various media from £95. A special joint package of Kathy Burk (Membership Secretary) [email protected] the membership list with frequent emailed updates through the year and a year’s Committee members: Winifred Bowman, Caroline Henry, Tanya Mann, Steven subscription to Circle Update is available from £135. These options can be viewed Morris, Helena Nicklin, Angela Reddin (tastings co-ordinator), Liz Sagues, at www.circleofwinewriters.org. For more information, please contact Andrea Simon Woolf (webmaster – [email protected]) Warren (see right). Membership enquiries should also be directed to her. Administrator: Andrea Warren +44 1753 882320 [email protected] 2 Circle Update October 2016 Contents October 2016 Issue 128 Features About CWW members p9 p16 CWW Chakana tasting Membership changes and news 5 by Beverley Blanning MW 9 Forthcoming CWW events 11 CWW pre-BYOB Balfour tasting Meet the member: by Christos Ioannou 11 Rebecca Murphy 12 Rufete is the key to Sierra de Salamanca, Raymond Blake 14 says Amaya Cervera 16 p18 p20 Robert Smyth finds much to applaud at the Regulars Szekszárd festival 18 From the chairman 4 At Eyrie in Oregon it’s not necessarily like Featured photographer 8 father like son, discovers Wink Lorch 20 Book news and reviews 28 John Salvi MW reminisces about a British Forthcoming wine events 32 home from home at Château Loudenne 22 p22 Caroline Henry reports on Champagne’s Front cover: Zack Charilaou, wine director at p27 Côte des Bar harvest 24 M restaurants in London. In Norway, they do it in a barrel, finds Back cover: Mike Brown, p28 Stephen Quinn 25 winemaker at Gemtree, Australia. Photos by Steven The VDP tasting in Germany is planned Morris, this issue’s featured to a tee, thinks Richard Bampfield MW 27 photographer, who also took the portrait of Hugh Johnson on the right. Membership of the Circle of Wine Writers (www.circleofwinewriters.org) is open to accredited wine journalists and Members who wish to send copies of articles in Circle Update to non- other professionals communicating in the media about wine. As such, it is editorial policy to give the editor and subscribers are requested not to forward the full issue. Pdf ‘offprints’ of each writer for Circle Update freedom to express his or her views. It must therefore be stressed that the Circle as specific articles are freely available from the editor, Wink Lorch. an organisation does not formally associate itself with the opinions expressed by contributors, except where this is specifically stated. While Circle Update is copyright of the Circle of Wine Writers, copyright of each individual contribution remains with its author © Circle of Wine Writers 2016 www.circleofwinewriters.org (writer or photographer). 3 Circle Update October 2016 From the chairman: Colin Hampden-White Our plans for 2017 subscription (to non-members) as part of the website. Friends of the Circle Members will be able to update their profiles whenever they Very soon we will have a new website, a new online Circle wish and both members and subscribers will be able to publication as well as a new method for our supporters to download the membership list from the website at any time. interact with our members. This brings me to Circle Update. Following much debate, As both our subscription service to access Update’s we have decided that Update needs modernisation and the replacement and the membership list will be online, updated January issue will be the last pdf version. Exactly what form more regularly and more comprehensively than ever, there the newsletter will take online is still under discussion, and will be some changes to the service, too. Details will be we plan its new format to be ready in time for our next AGM announced shortly and the subscription package will include e live in changing times in 2016 and we need to and the London Wine Fair in May. the exciting addition of access to exclusive Circle tastings Wmove with them. With this in mind the committee has Update has been a unique publication which has served and events. Supporters and subscribers will be known as initiated a series of changes and improvements to the way as a hugely useful and interesting resource for members ‘Friends of the Circle’ and will have their own section on our the Circle communicates, as outlined in my recent email to and subscribers. I would like to thank the many people website where they will be listed. We would like to thank members. Particularly for the benefit of our subscribers, I who have made this possible and highlight a few stars. all our subscribers for their support over the years. I hope will use this column to explain briefly some of our plans. Our current editor Wink Lorch, with the help of her deputy that you will approve of our changes and enjoy our new Our new website is nearly complete. It will be launched Robert Smyth, has created a publication that has evolved subscription service. at the Christmas party on 1st December at the same time and progressed, and we owe them both huge thanks. There I hope you enjoy reading the final issues of Circle as the unveiling of a brand new logo that is clean and sleek, are two other people who have worked on Update for many Update and continue to enjoy reading what will come in and links the world of wine and spirits. years who I would also like to thank: Liz Sagues as deputy the future.