F r u it R e c ip e s

A Man ual of the Food Value:

of Fruit: an d N ine H undred

' Diflerm t Ways of Ul ing Them

BY

ILEY ‘ M FLET H RY R . C ER BER

ILLUS TRATED FROM P H 0 T O G R A P H S

1 JUL 1‘

NEW YORK Doub e da Pa e 8: C om an l y , g p y 1 90 7

DEDICATED TO ALL MEN AND ALL WOMEN

NT — INTERESTED IN FRUITS : AS SC IE IS TS WHETH ER IN THE LAB ORATORY. THE GAR RTIST BY R SIO KITCHEN. O R TH E DEN; AS A S P OEES N OR THOS E WHO UNP ROFESS IONALLY I'IAVE ARTISTIC APPREC IATION O F TH IS TYP E ' OF EARTH S B EAUTY; AND TO THOSE WHO CLAIMS PEC IAL TRAINING IN NEITH ER SC IENCE NOR ART B UT MPLY AND OROU HLY OY GOOD S I TH G ENJ , LES ME K WHO O C OO ERY.

RILE M. FLETC H ER BE RR Y Y , h rch ar f T e O d o P alms, Or an do F orida l , l .

PREFACE

DA N IE L had goo d reason for his f am ou s and wittv after “ d lion s A ou inner speech when he remarked to the , fter y , t t "” gen lemen , af er you On the same principle prefaces are often postponed . But I hope that you will read this be ore di one f ning , that you may understand why such an anomaly as both a discussion of the food values of fruits and formulas for the practical preparation of fruit dishes ofie re me n should be d as well as women . Whatever men tal attitude one may hold in relation to foods , whether one makes meat the chief article of diet or ex clu de s it , or follows a middle course , one uses fruit as one : does water possibly as a luxury , possibly only because other people use it , but always to some degree (unless one be an Esquimau beyond even the reach of courageous A r rctic ber ies) , and always , just as surely , in lesser degree and with less appreciation of its real value than one shou ld use it . D ff clim ate of i erence of age , of , \ occupation , or consti tu tion make variation of kind a—nd quantity of foods a necessity . but , generally speaking leaving out discussion : of the three types of necessary food elements protein , or s nitrogen , the carbohydrate (including sugar and starches) , an d fa — r t all this aside , it is ag eed that human beings as a class need more of the potash salts than they ordinarily realise or take into their systems . The lack of proper pro portion of these salts lays the foundation for many troubles , in simple and complicated form , which , however , may be avoided by the substitution or inclusion of more fruit FRUIT RECIPES

r foods , for vegetables and f uits contain these necessary

N . salts in abundance . (See ote ) Fruit juice s furnish the most delightful form of pure

o o to d w ; wate r , which is t apt be consi ered , in the ords of in u ose s vi the Southern colonel , good h p pp of na gation , ’ " i c t e but a mighty po drink . The fru t form of a ids is i h to freshin—g ; it speedily furn s es energy the —muscular system the sugar being readily assimilated and in ge neral or directly (as with the tropical papaw and pine

. l apple) assists digestion Each fruit has a. specia an d some of the general values ; som e of them me an t only as i an d accessories to other foods, as a rule st mulants purifiers . ai i cont n ng chiefly the carbohydrates, and must be bal an ce d t by fats , nitrogen , or protein , and foods con aining "

e . b more c llulose Some fruits require very little alancing , i be ng substantial and nearly perfect in themselves , as figs , prunes , and the cocoanut , which last , when fresh , should be r ranked rather with f uits than nuts . The banana is a “ " substantial food , very rich in carbohydrates and body ; G so also the persimmon . rapes are nearly perfect from a general point of view and the apple is unique in rank. Acid fruits are not always to be recommended in com s a d bination with starchy food , and too much d may be use d , but all people are not constituted alike : uncooked fruits may or may not agree with one (though in general fruits t ff t are bes and more direct in e ec uncooked and , whether re ‘ e f sh or cooked , should be aten with less sugar than is the usual habit) and special . fruits or combinations may be found undesirable . Some human beings need food te t of ner than o hers or in greater quantity . Some need c r to be redu ed in flesh or the everse . No hard and fast rul es can be laid down ; each one should realise the value of fruits as a whole and of fruits in dividually and s hould as thoroughly know his own needs. PREFACE ix

Facts concerning the values of fruits have been widely

scattered , hidden behind masses of figu res or buried in

scientific works . Figu res and scientific terms are nec essary in their places , but those included here are only as matters of reference . To be vitally interested is the first “ ” r requisite for lea ning more and more . Everyone has u not the gift for remembering fig res and names , and to be so burdened is often to stop one at the outset or detract seriously from interest . M any foundation recipes are included and explanations , because this collection is meant quite as much for men who are “ batching it ” (perhaps having their first experiences in cooking where strange fruits have to be dealt with) as for women who rightly believe variety to be the spice of life ; and I have given as far as possible just wh at ' I my self would many times have valued could someone have saved my having to hunt through a great many volumes for all I wished to know concerning the preparation of some f orm u la which particular fruit , or for some general each book usually takes for granted one already knows in exact proportion . I have included also a few old- time recipes because of their great interest , from their age , to this generation , or the superior results to be obtained from their use . The housekeeping of earlier centuries seems elaborate and heavy by contrast with the lighter , modern methods , but life as a whole was simpler then than now and in attempting to improve upon the old- fashioned ways we have dropped a i r l ttle too much , for there were ce tain quaint touches of housewifely care ‘ which exercised untold charm in many

—m - u - directions . Were the old ti e still rooms in vog e to day , with their fragrant atmosphere of aromatic herbs , fruit cordials , brandies , and wines , patent medicines would find fe w victims ; the murderously adulterated liquors of x FRUIT RECI P ES foreign an d domestic markets so generally use d as mild n ot n c tonics as well as stimulants , would be counte an ed or would be rate d at the ir real stan din g and mone y value n ue from strict analysis . Fruits have medici al or tonic val “ " which in cordials go to exactly the right spot ; the old fl rin n d w r f ar s e fruit bran dies were used for av ou g, a e e up e r e a we k s ff rior to th average , adulte rate d o ch p, a tu s we have to buy to-day an d which as a matter of course ia e lude alcohol . ’ As authorities I have consulte d H aig s Diet and Foods ’ “ " ’ Burnett s Foods an d Dietaries ; H olbrooks s Food ’ “ ” ' and Work Williams s Chemistry of Cookery ; Fown e s s ” ' ' Manual of Chemistry ; R emington s Practice of Phar ”

. . a d macy ; the Dispensatory of the U S (Wood n B ache) , ’ c n B an n a Ch ambe rs s the ency clope dias, Ameri a , rit ic . and ’ ’ Gray s Botan y ; Helen H arcourt s Florida Fruits an d n r i i"n A r c bl How to Raise Cou t y L fe me i a, Ta e ’ lk h o t H r er az ar The De ine ato Ta , W at t Ea , a jz s B , l r, the New England and all other of the leadin g periodicals per “ t d o l z c taining o the table an t hea th , and do ens of ook M r . i books ost of my recipes , however , are o ig n al or lon g since adopte d an d —adapted by family habit or tradition s of co f S En Ge oking o frien ds cotch , glish , rman , an d Amer o m am h i te ican (t who I muc ndeb d) , but endless con sul tation and compari son for years h as resulted in agreein g wi So omon th t n i a n i a e xce ti th l at , wi h at on l or i div du l p ons. ch o n ame o o i i ange f , or pr p rt on of n gre die nt . there is no e new thin g un de r th sun . wish a x r ss m o D to n k t r. i I lso e p e y tha s W le y , chief c em th e A r cu t a D h ist of g i l ur l epartment , an d to William

A . Ta or H . E. Van D man G. B . B ck yl . e . ra ett H . Harold

H P . . ol S . . m H f H b . , R e T. S m l w R . u e . J W ber , W g e , B .

Ha . H . E M. . f E a . 0 . ndy , W vans , J fa , W Atwater, Fre d C D V. vi a G P as o ol lle . and ebor h . srn re of this gre ate st o f the PREFACE xi government departments as well as to the Department in general . Such work , scientific , practical , and artistic , t w cannot be overestima ed , hether one is little or much dependent upon it ; for the results of these investigations reach people who might never be reached in any other way and yet influence those who have every other o ppor tu n it y and scientific authority at ha—nd , helping to sim plify everyday aff airs ; and we must men and women live with eyes open to the practical power of the products of the earth if we expect to live the sweetest , the simplest ,

and so , the fullest lives .

M. LE TCH E R E R RY . R . F B

NOTE : Bicarbonate of potash in proportion of about e s oon fu l an gg p to a p—ound of ripe fruit , rather more in the case of unripe fruits (Burnett) is now given—patients of gouty and other types of cases—with fruit even with lemons and tartest gooseberries that they may have

u - fr it diet , although until very recently it was supposed they

must be denied fruit .

M. . . R . F B

CON TENTS

P AGE Weights and Measures Introductory Recipes CH A P TER The Apple The P ear The Quince

Th e Medlar and the Loquat The P each and Apricot

Th e Cherry

Th e Plum The Northern Papaw The Wild Northern Persimmon The Grape

The Olive 1 2 2 Melons

A Cluster of Berries The Lemon " i O The Wild , Sour , or Sev lle range The Orange

Th e C L itron , Bergamot , imeberry , K umquat , and Trifoliata P L XVIII . The omelo (or Grape Fruit ime C Tangelo , and itrange — CONTENTS Con tin ued

C H AP TE R P AGI The P ineapple The Banana The Fig The Date—The Cocoanut The Japanese Persimmon The Guava

M A l P um Rose and alay pp es , Java l , Suri C ” nam and Barbadoes herries , and Marmalade Box The P omegranate

“ “ A u A The vocado , Ag acate , or lligator Pear ” Th V . C A C XX III e ustard pple , The herimoya , Sweet P A and Sour Sop , and ond pple — The Mangostee n The Mammee Apple M i Sapodilla , ammee Sapota , Wh te Sapota , A P E Star pple , Cocoa lum and gg Fruit (or Ti-es M XXX I . Six of the ore Familiar Tropical and Semi- Tropical Fruits

XXXII . Some of the Less Known Fruits xvi ILLUSTRATIONS

FACI N G P AGE Perfection Currant t o A ou lture (P ermission of U. S . Departmen f m )

The Common H igh H uckleberry of the South

lan do F la . ( T. P . Robin son , Or . ) The French (black) Mulberry

Cah forn ia Lemons with Blossoms

al. (C . C . P ie rce Compan y . C ) Spanish Lime or Ginep

t Ke West F la. F W. H u n ( . , y . ) The Seville Orange with Blossoms

lan do F la . M. F . B err Or (R . y . , ) Old Baldy and Navel Oranges from the C z ro Gabriel Valley , alifornia “ ' Ra L on ( Old BaW "mission 0} E . T. ndall . B each , Cal.

avel Oran ? C. G Allen S t. P etersbur Fha (N ge . , B- s

Blossoms of the Sweet Orange 2 1 0

(C . C . Alle n . S t. P e tersburg, Fla . ) Morton Citrange e er De artme n t (C ou rtesy of H j . W bb , U. S . p of Agriculture) Rusk Citrange

P erm o A t ( ission of U . S . Departmen t f gric ul ure) Willits Citrange

o e (P ermission of U. S . Departmen t f Agricultur ) Trifoliate Orange

(P ermission of U. S . Departme n t of Agric ultim )

The Ku mquat 2 2 2 P Ro o ( T. . bin son , Orlan d , Fla ) Trimble Tangerine (P ermission of U S Departmen t of Agricu lture) — Gr ape Fruit Tree

The Pomelo or Grape - Fruit

(I . C . E . En smin ger, S an ford , F la . ) ILLUSTRATIONS xvii

m e m o P AGE Sampson Tangelo n o (P ermissio f U. S . Departme n t of Agricu lture) Pineapples Raised under Protection of Slatted Sheds t r F (c . G. Allen . S . P etersbu g, la. ) North American Watermelons

( H oward. Orlan do, F la. )

The B anana .

B lossom by C . E En smin ge r , S an ford , Fla (P lan ts by cou rtesy of j acob S han n e barger) California Figs “ r e e (C. C . P ie c 6 Co . . Los An gel s . C al ) Bloom of the Date P alm i E . E nsm an ord Fla. (j . C . nger. S f , )

Up in the H eart of a Date P alm B F la M. F . err lando . (R . y . Or , ) Wild Date P alm of India ’ (S cowen 6 Co. . Cey lon ) Gathering Cocoanuts We t F la B loss oms by TV. H u n t. Key s , . ) ’ L c o H avan a Cu ba (P alm by y he n heim 6 C . . , )

Flat and Co nical Japan P ersimmons

r Fla . ( r. P . Robin son . O lan do. ) Delmas P ersimmon o A ltur (P en n iss ion of U . S . Departmen t f gricu e) Tropical P apaw

d F la. E . Emmin er S an or (j . C . g . f . )

Apple and Pear Gu avas

lando F la. M. F . B err Or (R . y , . )

The Alligator P ear : Aguacate

Fla . W. H u n t K West (F . . ey . ) Pomegranates

Glen S t. Mar F (P ermission af G. L. Taber. y . la. ) The Sweet Sop or Sugar Apple

n est F la. (F . W. H u t, Key W , ) xviii ILLUSTRATIONS

The Sour Sop

F W. H un t Ke est Fla . W ( , y , ) Mammee Sapota

F W H un t West Fla. ( . . . Key , ) The Mangosteen ’ o (S cowen 6 Co. . C ey l n )

The Sapodilla st F F W. H un t K We la. ( . , ey , ) The Bread Fruit

The Prickly Pear

W. H un t Ke West F la. (F . . y , )

Mam A D min o A mee pple or St . o g prico t F W H unt Ke West F la ( . . . y , . )

Cashew Nut or Apple

Fruit of Spanish Bayonet

( T. P . Robin son . Orlan do. Fla. )

Th e Tamarind

F W. H un t K West Fla. ( . . ey . ) Tamarind Trce

(F . W. H un t Key West. Fla. ) Mulgoba Mango

(P ermission of U. S . Deporh ne nt oi Agriculture) " On e of the Stringy Mangoes

(F. W. H unt. Key West, Fla. ) WE IG H TS AN D MEASU RES

2 saltspoon s equal one cofie e spoon z co fie e spoon s teaspoon 60 drops teaspoon 3 teaspoons (dry) tablespoon 4 teaspoons (liquid) tablespoon 4 tablespoons (liquid) wineglass 4 tablespoons (liquid) h alf cup 8 large tablespoons or 2 wine glasses 2 gills ’ 1 cup 2 cups or 3 2 tablespoons 2 pints or four c ups 1 cup granulated sugar 1 cup butter (solid) 1 rounding tablespoon butter 1 heaping tablespoon sugar 1 tablespoon of liquid

4 FRU IT RECI P E S

tapioca . Some instructors give the rule of a level table

o f spoon cornstarch to each pint of clear , pressed fruit juice , which , however , may be slightly diluted . The ar rowroot or cornstarch is a quicker process and should be d issolved till smooth in a little cold water , added when the fruit juice is at boiling point , then cooked till clear ; mean time adding sugar , and later a tablespoon of lemon juice or wine . If sago or tapioca is used it must be cooked till A thoroughly tender and translucent . fruit soup made of raspberries m ay serve as example of a lighter fruit soup and the Swedish of those more substantial . See also the

P A . e rune , the pple , etc , or apply as convenienc and taste dictate . R E D R A S P B ER R Y S O UP

Add one pound granulated sugar to two quarts of red raspberries well looked over and mashed . L e t stand an

. H hour , then put through sieve eat gradually , stirring carefully , and when at boiling point add a tablespoon of cornstarch which has been dissolved in just a little cold water . When clear , smooth , and thickened add a half pint of sherry , remove at once and let cool . When

ready to serve pour it over shaved ice in glasses .

S W EDIS H F R U IT S OU P

A - llow one third part of apricots or prunes to two - thirds dried apples , in proportion of a cup of the apples to two quarts of water . Wash and soak over night in the water

(cold) . In the morning place on the stove with a cup of raisins or currants , or half and half , a sprinkling of cinnamon and tablespoon of tapioca or sago . Ad d another quart of cold water and simmer till fruits and tapioca or sago are t er. Add a tt e s end li l ugar or salt as liked . INTRODUCTORY RECI PES 5

F R U IT S A L A DS In preparing fruit salads there are several points to be k : ept in mind the general form of the salad, the combination of the elements composing it ; the dressing and the gar~

n ishin . g Remembering these , one may have infinite and

s . As most appeti ing charm of variety to the form , the salad may be served in delicate green or rosy apples , hol lowed out ; in pears , like fashion ; in small or large melons ; in tomato , pepper , or other vegetable casing ; in the rinds of the citrus fruits etc . The salad itself may be a mere salad or it may have meat value by the addition of hard “ ” l s boi ed eggs , nuts , chopped or whole meat , or , some P ni . a ad times , even cheese opcorn fur shes nourishing i C d tion also . elery or other dainty vegetable may be n u combi ed with fruit , and of fr it itself not only the sub stan tial but the delicate may be combined to attract : both eye and palate bananas and melons , cubed , or peaches (of similar substance) may be added to cherries , to the candied angelica (traditionally “ good for the diges

to currants , red or blue plums , or strawberries .

P ineapple and other southern fruits , as well as the n o h e m —k rt nown , juicy citrus family , may be added r to the delicate g een cucumber , to pears and apples , or hi to seeded grapes or olives . There is nothing w ch cannot be artistically blended with something else “in the fruit or vegetable world , or with rose petals , candied violets , etc . The garnishing appeals to the eye but even the gayly graceful nasturtiu m has a spicily stimulating mission hwa C s tom ac rd . ress may be either a garnish or the body s r of the salad , as also may be lettuce , etc . But p igs of c stimu urrants , white or red, may be used ; parsley (a lant in disguise) ; sprays of cherries or kumquats ; or figs or r dates softly fresh or freshened . O there may be a bed of 6 FRUIT RECI P ES

vegetable or fruit gelatine celery or tomato , lemon or melon , and so on , endlessly . Th e dressing is an important matter whether it be the ” simple French or a combination of flavoured secrets . Olive oil requires virtually no diges tion and furnishes an immense amount of nourishment . But even yet there are people who fin d it apparently impossible to cultivate a taste for it and so eschew salads or substitute butter for the oil . The oil , however , may be used with little or none of the oil flavour , or whipped cream may be substituted with pure fruit salads .

F R EN C H DR ES S IN G

Mix well one- half teaspoon each of salt and pepper with P one tablespoon of lemon juice (or fruit vinegar) . our h i t is gradually , stirring the wh le , on three tablespoons of olive oil . Toss the salad in this thoroughly . Melted butter may be substituted for the oil .

S IMP L E MA YO NN A IS E To the yolk of one egg allow about one cup of olive oil and three tablespoons of lemon juice or strong, pure vine gar . To the yolk of the egg add one saltspoon of salt and n a dash of cayen e pepper or Tabasco , and a teaspoon of d hi either prepare mustard or Worcesters re Sauce . (These may of course be omitted if preferred) . Add a few drops w s of oil to the whipped yolk and beat well ith ilver fork , i add ng more oil , little by little , alternating with the acid

n is u - until the dressi g q ite stiff an d glossy . Keep ice cold A . hi until used lso , t s may be frozen (in glass) by burying it in ice and salt for two hours . (Real olive oil con geals at higher temperature than other oils . If the oil is merely labelled olive oil it will not freeze so quickl y . ) INTRODUCTORY RECI P ES 7

C R EA M O R W H IT E MA YONNA IS E

This may be made with sweet or sour cream ; if the for mer , having the cream whipped and adding in equal quan tity to mayonnaise already prepared . Sour thick cream t may be substitu ed , or whipped white of egg . This may be coloured green with spinach juice or pink with berry c syrup or ordials or with cochineal or maraschino .

C OOKED MA YO NNA IS E

Pu t on the stove one teacup of vinegar and let it come to a boil (in double vessel) , adding three tablespoons sugar , e i one t aspoon salt , a pinch of cayenne pepper , and s x mustard spoons of mixed or French mustard , with three tablespoons of olive oil or melted butter . While this mixture is heating beat well the yolks of three eggs , adding at the last a dessertspoon of flour . Whip this lightly into the heated vinegar , etc . , and let cook till thick , stirring all the while and never letting boil . Remove and cool . This will keep a long time (for salad dressing) without ice .

O L IVE OIL A N D C R EA M F R U IT DR ES S IN G

s . U e equal quantity of oil and cream (The evaporated , unsweetened cream will answer the purpose very nicely . ) The oil must be added gradually to the cream and mixed i shortly before serving or it w ll separate . Flavour this li u eu r with maraschino , or some other q , brandy , or cordial , and the oil is quite disguised .

W H IP P ED C R EA M DR ES S I N G A simple whipped cream may be substituted for an oil dressing with fruits and may be flavoured with cordials or ’

t n . liqueurs or n ot , as he fruit or one s taste i dicates 8 FRUIT RECIPE S

W H IP P ED E G G F R U IT DR ES S IN G

To the white of one egg allow a tablespoon of olive oil .

a d r d n . Whip first the egg , d ing oil g a ually as in mayon aise f or Flav our with lemon juice , salt , cayenne , etc . , as may i li u eu rs on n a se , or substitute pure fruit cordials or q ; fail

ui . ing these use a pure fr t syrup , fresh or preserved

S O U R C R EA M DR ES S I N G S

When cream is soured , but not old enough to be strong i (although t may be very thick) , it may be used in several ways for dressing : Rub smooth the yolks of four di fi e hardboiled eggs , ad ng gradually y tablespoons of sour , thick cream . Thin and flavour this with lemon or wild

2 Mix orange juice or tarragon vinegar . ( ) smooth in a cup of sour cream 3 tablespoon of flour . H ave heating three tablespoons of lemon juice or vinegar , and two of

- butter , one half teaspoon each of sugar and mustard , and Mix pinch of cayenne or paprika . cream and flour in this r and cook three minutes , stir ing the while . Just before f removing from fire add the stif whipped whites of two eggs .

Remove and cool . Thick , fresh , sour cream may be used uncooked , with lemon juice or a thick syrup or fl n cordial av ou ri g . Just before serving the whipped two whites of eggs may be added , but this cannot stand long and the egg is not necessary .

S IMP L E B IS C UIT DOUG H

Sift one teaspoon of salt and two (rounding) of baking powder through one quart of flour and rub into the whole e one heaping tablespoon of short ning . In the centre pour gradually one pint of sweet milk , or part milk and part k water , ma ing a soft dough with as little mixing as pos

s . ou t ible Roll out ; and bake quickly . INTRODUCTORY RECIPES 9

DR OP B IS C U IT O R S C ON ES

Where drop biscuit or scones are wished drop the dough by the spoonful (size desired) on to well greased pan instead of rolling out—while the dough is yet not in the t i d smooth , harder condi ion requ re for rolling and cutting.

S H OR T - C A K E (P lain ) To each pint of flour allow one dessertspoon of shortening

(or one tablespoon if a richer dough is preferred) , one rt n desse spoon of sugar , one heaping teaspoo baking pow

“

t. der , and a half teaspoon of sal Roll out and bake in two sheets (either round or square tins) , and bake about twenty minutes in a rather quick oven . Separate th e sheets with

r a fork and pour or spread over them the prepared f uit .

r i O the dough may be rolled th nner , buttered , and folded over so that the sheets may be opened more readily . For further directions see Strawberry Shortcake . )

P A S TR Y F O R P I ES A N D TA R TS

P otato P as te Without S horten in 1 . ( g)

To three- fourths pint very mealy potatoes ad d a half fi f teaspoon salt and suf cient flour to make qu ite sti f . Soften flicie n l su t . i this with cream y to roll out easily Bake qu ckly .

2 atmeal P aste Withou t S horteni n . O ( g)

Scald two cups fine oatmeal with one cup boiling water ,

- mixing thoroughly . Roll thin and line pie tins , then bake lightly b e lore filling with pie mixture .

P astr Mode with Cream 3 . y

On e and three- fourths pints flour in which h as been sifted a half teaspoon each of baking powder and salt . k cu cre Mix into this quic ly one p of am , rolling thin the I o FRUIT RECI PES

r resulting dough . Spread on this one desse tspoon of but ter ; fold over and roll out again .

B r ou h P as te 4 . ead D g

Roll shavings of butter in bread dough , rolling out and spreading it three times .

P lain P as tr with S horte n in 5 . y g

With three cups flour sift one teaspoon salt and one - half teaspoon baking powder . Rub or cut into this three

0? M fourths cup shortening . oisten with ice water just

- enough to bind together and roll out . Fine chopped , fresh

- beef suet may be used : one half cupful to each cup of flour . Make a funnel of stiff white paper and insert in top crust with covered fruit pies and the juice will not run out at the edges . (Where the lower crust is baked before adding “ ” i the tart or pie filling or the under crust is om tted , pies and tarts may be light , flaky , and digestible as well as delicious and few need be debarred their old- fashioned delights . ) E G G L E S S C A KE

On e - - and one half cups sugar ; one half cup shortening , s two cups sweet milk ; three and a half cup flour , in which has been sifted the baking powder (three rounding tea spoons) and a pinch of salt . If other shortening than but ter is used a tablespoon of brandy or other liquor will dis fl guise any possible suggestion , but other av ou rin g may be added as well without conflicting .

O N E - E G G C A K E

On e and a half cups sugar ; one - half cup shortening one cup sweet milk ; one egg ; three and one - fourth cups ; flour three rounding teaspoons baking powder , and

. pinch of salt Flavouring as wished .

1 2 FRUIT RECI P ES

B LA C K F R UIT C A K E (G e rman R e cipe ) Cream well one pound each of butter and sugar and add a good glass of brandy , three cups of flour, in which have been sifted five teaspoons of baking powder , one cup of water , the juice and grated rind of one lemon , six well

- r beaten eggs , and one pound each of well prepared cu rants ,

. raisins , figs , dates . and prunes . Bake three hours

P L A IN B OI L ED IC I N G (W ith E gg)

To a cup of granulated sugar add one - half cup water and let boil till it strings from spoon or hardens slightly in cold H i hi water . ave ready the wh pped w te of an egg (or two) i and on t his pour the boil ng syrup , beating with silver fork . Add flav ou rin g and when the icing has thickened a little spread on the cake .

IC IN G W ITH W A TER ON L Y

To a ha lf cup of boiling water add sufficient confection~ ' er s sugar to make of convenient stiffness for spreading .

' s o e r 1c m o (W ith ou t E gg)

Use one- third part of water to granulated su gar and let boil without stirring till it threads or ropes when t e

~ move and let stand till barely warm . Beat then till dough like and knead till creamy . This will keep if placed in glass in a cool spot . When needed place in double boiler with hot water in outer vessel and stir till sufficiently soft to use , then flavour .

F R UIT B UTTER

C a hop together equal parts of stoned r isins , dates , and figs and add (after weighing) nuts equal in weight to the Th e whole . nuts may be mixed according to convenience INTRODUCTORY RECIPES 1 3

k or taste, as one part each of blac and white walnuts , z Mix pecans , almonds , peanuts , ha el or Brazil nuts . t k thoroughly ogether and pac in a mould for slicing .

G ER MA N F R U IT B R OD Stew separately one pound dried apples and two pounds each of apricots , prunes , and pears , and when quite done mix together , adding two pounds raisins and a p ound each A of chopped citron and nuts . lso add one pound sugar ,

- one half teaspoon cloves , and one teaspoon each of all spice , anise , and cinnamon . Set a dough with flour and plenty of yeast but dampen only with the juice cooked out Let of the fruit . rise , and bake slowly two hours or more .

B R EA D F OR F R UIT TOA S T

At noon put to soak one cake of yeast in one- half pint lukewarm water and when thoroughly dissolved stir with fi n ff it suf cient flour to thicken well i to rather a sti batter . “ ” Le t rise till just before bed time . Then add one quart and a half-pint lukewarm milk (or one fiv e - cent can evaporated cream diluted to equal above quantity) ; one heaping tablespoon shortening ; one dessertspoon salt ; three- fourths cup sugar and flo ur to make a moderately k stiff bread dough (as if for last wor ing) . Work just a

to . little , then set rise (covered) in place free from draughts This will be ready to make up by about six o ’ clock next morning (depending somewhat of course upon th e k temperature) . Wor out into individual loaves and set

k - to rise again . Ba e three quarters of an hour . H ave oven at moderate temperature at first , then increase the “ heat as the loaves come up . This will make four brick loaves . To each loaf may be added one and a half cu ps of chop x4 FRUIT RECI P ES

not ped nuts (preferably peanuts) , but the nut bread must u be allowed to become stale or rancid . Served with fr it and the fruit juice this combination gives an excellent proportion of the food values required by the body for nourishment and in sufficient quantity is of itself. a good luncheon or breakfast . B A TTE R P UDDI N G

This is an old- fashioned foundation batter pudding which may be used plain with a fresh or stewed fruit sauce or the fruit cooked with the pudding . The pudding may be baked in a buttered dish for thirt y - fiv e minutes or boiled in a close - covered mould in rapidly boiling water for two hours .

To a pint of cold milk allow two eggs , a little salt , and

ffi u . four tablespoons of flour . Su cient for fo r people

B A TTER F OR F R U IT F R ITTE R S To one cup of flour add a good pinch of salt and a half teaspoon of baking powder , then sift . Into the middle of this stir two beaten eggs and a half cup each of milk and

. On e sugar , then beat well egg only may be used , in which case add a half teaspoon of baking powder .

P L A I N B O I L ED C U S TA R D A N D F L OA T To each quart of milk allow four or five eggs and three tablespoons of sugar , beating the sugar with the yolks of the eggs before adding the milk . The whites may be whipped separately with a tablespoon of sugar and used as a meringue or whipped ligh tlv into the body of the custard as preferred . The custard may have added to it a tea or spoon more of dissolved cornstarch . This may also be i b , aked plac ng the custard in cups or one dish , baking a in te v in c refully modera o en an outer vessel of water . I NTRODUCTORY RECI P ES 1 5

Float is a thinner form of custard and for this three or u fo r eggs may be used with a little cornstarch . Neither “ " the thicker, boiled custard or float should be allowed to boil but (in a double boiler) cooked just u n der boiling point i and watched carefully while t thickens .

P L A IN C O R N S TA R C H B L A NC MA N G E

Allow three heaping tablespoons of cornstarch to one it quart of milk , wetting and dissolving with a little of H i cold milk . eat the rest of the m lk to boiling point with d three tablespoons of sugar and pinch of salt . A d to it the fiv e dissolved cornstarch and cook gently about minutes , E adding at the last the flav ou rin g desired . ggs may be used with this if the perfectly smooth stiffness is not de sired . In this case have eggs ready whipped , the whites alone (one or two or more) or both yolks and whites ; pour in and beat lightly with the mixture just before removing . P lace in a wetted mould to cool and chill before serving .

P L A I N TA P IOC A OR S A GO

Allow one -half cup tapioca or sago to one quart of cold i Le t m lk . soak in part of the milk till softened well . P lace the rest of the milk meantime in double boiler to heat with two tablespoons sugar and half teaspoon salt . When the sago or tapioca is softened add to the heated milk and cook till thick . The sugar may be omitted and a little A butter substituted . lso , for a richer pudding , two eggs

flav ou rin n may be added , whipped (with g) and beate in just before removing from the fire .

For the plainest form add no milk or egg , substituting fruit juice or wine and pouring over the fruit desired . H ow ever the white o f an egg whipped stiff gives lightness in texture and taste . I 6 FRUIT R ECIP ES

P L A I N G EL A TI NE

Soak one box gelatine in three -fourths pint of cold water

, till dissolved , when add one quart boiling water the juice of three lemons (or other fruit juice) and sugar to taste L (about two cups will make this moderately sweet) . e t cool , then set on ice to harden . In hot weather reduce Or somewhat the quantity of water used . use three pints k fruit juice (no water) to one box of gelatine , soa ing it in part of the juice . Proceed as above .

S P ON G E

A sponge may be made by the addition o f whipped white of egg to plain gelatine (as above) .

ITA L IA N OR S P A NIS H A N D B A VA R IA N C R EA MS

The so - called Italian and Spanish creams are founded upon a gelatine mixture with the addition of eggs , while the Bavarian Cream in general substitutes whipped cream : for eggs . Very simple forms of these are here given

an is h or Italian Cream 1 . S p

Dissolve o n e -half box gelatine by barely cov ering it M with cold water , letting stand an hour or more . ean

a h - time make custard with one pint milk , t ree fourths cup of sugar , a pinch of salt , and , when at boiling point , the yolks of three eggs (beaten with part of the sugar) , whipped in with the dissolved gelatine . Beat and stir a few minutes flav ou rin then remove , add g and the whites of the eggs ff Le t whipped very sti . cool and set on ice to chill .

2 . B avarian Cre am

D - o n e - issolve one half box gelatine in half cup water . H eat to boiling point a cup of milk with a half cup of sugar

. Add and pinch of salt the softened gelatine , then strain INTRODUCTORY RECI PES 1 7

a a our n d add fi v ing. Beat till it begins to cool an d thicken when add lightly a pint of cre am well whipped

and place on ice to harden .

ICE CR EA M A N D IC ES

For a plain foundation ice cream use equal quantity of

new milk and cream . H eat to boiling point (not beyond) wi adding one cup of sugar th a pinch of salt . Le t co ol c i before addin g fruit jui e or pulp , or both , w th perhaps

a little lemon juice to bring out the flavour . It is often r is o e advisable , where the f uit juice unco k d or very tart , to partially freeze the cooled cream and milk before adding

the juice . Ab out one heaping te aspo on of gelatine (dissolved be fore adding) for each pint of the milk and cream gives th e smooth mousse aine b di on ness of a , which is also att d y the ad ti of

whipped cream . Evaporated cream or condensed milk may b e used with

excellent results . Whipped cream and the whipped whites of eggs in equal portion may be frozen and merely flavoured with fruit w n juice or h ave added an equal part of s eete ed fruit pulp .

F R O ZEN C US TA R D

add th - To one quart of heated milk ree well beaten eggs ,

cu n h sa t. Co l add th e f ui one p of sugar . and a pi c of l o , r t

e z . i cus a or juice desired , and fre e W th t rd , also , it is sometimes best to partially freez e before adding to it th e

fruit juice . F R UIT IC ES A N D S H ERB ETS

Make a syru p in general proportion of on e quart of water to a pound of sugar with a pinch of salt and boil fiv e s or s minutes . The sweetne s tartnes of the fruit used 1 8 FRUIT RECIPES

necessitates varying the amount of sugar . When cold add

. to the syrup a pint of fruit juice , also pulp if wished “ Sherbets or sorbe ts are made by adding to the ice made as above , when partially frozen , the whipped white of an egg (or two if liked) for the above quantity , or with a little sugar added . Granites are coarse - grained ices packed in the can and set awav without stirring till the expiration of an hour when

~ the sides are scraped fresh and the mixture re packed .

This is twice repeated . It is not until the ice is scraped and

r . stirred that the f uit is added , lightly mixed in

F R UTT JU N KE T

Make with junket tablets according to given directions on all such packages . Fill large dish or individual serving cups or sherbert glasses with fruit , fresh or stewed , sweet

- a . On ened , about one h lf full this pour the tablet when " Le dissolved according to instructions . t this set till quite firm before placing on ice to chill .

S OU F F L és

‘ sou lé The connection is immediate between the word fl , ‘ s ou ié F ou or the fl concoction , and the rench verb s fiier:

to . to inflate ; swell ; to blow out , etc , the foundation of sou iés e fi b ing the whipped egg which rises and falls again . ‘ Two simple forms of s ou filé are here given which may be adapted to any fruit or its juice .

i ‘ é I . S mple S oufll Separate six eggs ; add a pinch of salt to the whites and i whip t ll dry . Whip separately three of the yolks then i i fold in l ghtly w th the whites , adding a tablespoon of any i i fruit ju ce and sprinkl ng sugar over the top . Bake quickly in hot oven ten minutes .

2 0 FRUIT RECI P ES juicy fruits and the amount of sugar may be lessened or omitted entirely if the fruit is to be used for cooking pur poses . ) Place the fruit in the hot jars , (tops loose) filling up with a f alse t the syrup then putj ars in a boiler on bo tom of slats , perforated wood , or some soft material (as hay or cloth) having the surface even , and so packing in the jars with the hay , etc . , that they do not touch or move about with the mo tion of the (later) boiling water . Fill the boiler to the necks of the jars with lukewarm water ; place the boiler- cover on A over the fire and let water heat gradually . fter it reaches boilin g point let it boil twenty minutes for small fruits and longer for the heavier kinds , then remove the cover ; pull the bo iler back for convenience when the steam h as disap c w e are d . p Remove the jars singly , pla ing them in a shallo l n u w an d pan of boi i g water ; fill p ith boiling syrup seal . P a a n Be sure that all air bubbles are gone . lace g i on perfor a ated board to cool where there are no dr ughts . The covers may have to be tightened before setting away . An other method is to fill the jars with the fruit , adding for a n frui a half cup of granulated sugar e ch pi t of t , sift a P ing it into the jars (with no w ter) . roceed then as above till jars are to be removed when fill each on e up with boil ing water or boiling syrup (either syrup prepared or from one of the other jars of fruit) . c Set jars in a dark pla e , or wrap each one in paper . The old rule for the richer preserves is pound for pound of sugar and fruit . For jelly the general rule is pint for pound of fruit juice an d sugar , but this must vary with the kind or con dition of fruit . With very sweet fruit the quantity of sugar i should be less than the measure of syrup . Avo d making jelly (or icing or candies) on rainy or damp days . Choose a dry and if possible a sunny day . Never squeeze the fruit in jelly-bag but first wring out the bag in h ot water INT RODUCTORY RECIP ES 2 1

to avoid any waste of juice . In using spices place them in cheesecloth bags and remove them before the jars are sealed for the more delicate pickles or spiced fruits as the spice will darken the fruit and tend to make it look se e C M in M old ( itron elon Jelly , under elon s) .

P R ES ER VED F R U IT S YR UP S With some fruits the juice may be preserved without sugar , as with some grapes and with currants . For syrups to be used for sauces , drinks , frozen desserts , etc . , measure H juice and add half the amount of sugar . alf this amount ffi of sugar will su ce for an ordinary preserved fruit juice . Bring to boiling point then strain ; re - heat ; boil five minutes and bottle . TO MUL L W INE To one pint of wine add one fourth pint of wa ter which has been steeped with one teaspoon each of mace , cinna mon , and cloves . Sweeten to taste .

F R UIT L O ZEN G ES i Cherries , currants , or other tart fruits may be made nto the old- fashioned lozenges by adding one- third pint (or less) of sugar to each pint of thick , strained fruit juice , simmering together forty minutes and adding when at boiling point two tablespoons gelatine dissolved in a very little cold water . Stir well , remove , and continue stirring till it begins to cool and thicken when pour into buttered Le t earthen pans . dry slowly , sprinkle with sugar during the process , and cut into shapes liked .

C OOKED S OFT C R EA M C A NDY F OR S TUF F IN G F R UITS Where confectioner 's sugar is not used with white of S ff egg (uncooked) , making ti enough to roll , the following 2 2 FRUIT RECIP ES will be found satisfactory : Take two pounds of white sugar and one teacu p of water or milk , boiling till just before it threads from spoon if water is used , if milk , till it thickens and can be softly rolled when dropped in water (“ the soft ball Flavour with vanilla or fruit juice . Remove and stir till creamy .

C L EA R F R UIT C A NDY

Instead of using water , as above , use some tart fruit juice and let cook without stirring till it strings from the spoon . F R OS TED F R UITS

Frost as for Grapes (see Grape Snow) . CH APTER I

TH E AP P L E (Ma/u: mo lar: Malacca )

H E apple is of all fruits the most entirely taken for

granted . It has become as much a matter of course as the universe itself and just as naturally stands at the head of the fruits as does the sun among the heavenly “ " a u n c An ain ta e . d bodies (of familiar , speaking q ) , as its first letter gives it front rank in the alphabet and primers — — so has the name of apple appealed first foremost to the imaginations of men and the fruit to their palates from the time of the earliest relation (not to say actual occur " A Ev e . O r rence ) of the story of dam and the wise , why the apple instead of some one of the numerous delicious ? and more delicate southern fruits It is substantial , r n a firm , yet g acious and su ny ; eminently practic l ; thus in one may say , fitted every way to stand the wear and tear

- hi of the ages . In poetry , folk lore , and even story , no fruit has been more often referred to ; its beauty and whole som e n e ss more constantly eulogised ; standing out as the

Me n ch ie fl type of pomological excellence . it is who v have written poetry and history , however divided their s responsibility in the creation of beauty and fact , and men , ' Yet i . l ke the apple , are eminently practical are men s hearts and minds not always won through th e gastronomic channel or the appeal of the practical . The wild crab , supposed to be the earliest type of apple , lacked as a fruit some of the excellence of evolution , but there is yet , in e thes later ages , no flower , wild or cultivated , which can rival the wild crab -apple blossom in rare fragrance an d 2 3 2 4 FRU IT RECI P ES delicacy of beauty ; none which even approaches its magi cal perfume and charm save the sweet olive (Ole a frag ffi rams ) . It is su cient in its marvellous witchery to cap — tiv ate and inspire rhapsody in the most practical in even An d unimaginative , primeval man . so , to its possession a of unusual virtues and be uty has been added (happily , save in the instance of A dam) the appreciation of men ; therefore th e preeminence o f the apple . This first of fruits is known in Arabia an d other southern i countr es but is essentially a product of the colder , more bracin g climes ; one fitted by its combin ation of refreshing s u an d s e acid , s bstantial bulk timulating juic , its possi b ilitie s in natural or (whether cooked or dried) pre served r state , as food or d ink , to give in such latitudes just that ' e c n degr e of omfort to ma s physical organism , material for the playful exercise of the intellect and innocent revel of the aesthetic senses which are required for complete human e n e n jo ym t . It is concentrated power which may be applied toward the e stablishment an d preservation of health ; a a o in its dyn m possessing and giving out flavour , texture , and its action upon the body that vigorous poise n e ce s sary to offse t any possible ill effects from long continued

n w , seaso s of cold , hen the earth rests and humanity is prone to become careless and let the blood and liver grow sluggish . The juice of the apple combine s extremes ; the sparkle

’ s - of sun hine and the sparkle of frost time , the sun s glow i W m laugh ng out in the orking war th of winter cider , the

- frost touch cooling the blood in the seasons of the sun . Joel B enton claimed that the apple bears a very pertinent relation to the brain , stimulating life and activity , which m w it does by its i mense endo ment of phosphorus , in which i element t is said to be richer than anything in the v e ge E table kingdom. ven though the value or proportion TH E APP LE 2 5

of phosphorus , whether in apples or fish , is now considered no greater than that of other food elements ; this is an in te restin i the i g statement as prov ng earl er , generally ac c e pte d wholesomeness of apples and as a reminder that in former days men of marked mental achievement prized and placed first in their fruit affections and habits of e at in a m an d g, the pple , publicly proclai ing protesting their An d admiration for it . one who nowadays has even o c casion ally felt the stimulation and refreshment of this fruit can well believe that a comparatively steady diet of it might prove conducive to brain activity and general well

- being . To day , through improved methods of cultivation i s a and better shipping facil tie , we h ve more kinds of foods es fr h , canned , or concocted , so that the world indulges less freely in such simple pleasures of diet as cider and apples s O and has , by this gain , in a ense undoubtedly lost . ther fruits are also of value but to be less bound by the modern i x w e slavery of the necess ty of lu uries , heth r imported x e s r i and e pensive (because l s easily obtainable) f u ts , or in i u rich foods of other kinds , w nter or s mmer , would tend to simple r an d more powerful directness of thought and strength of brain . Malu Pomologi cally speaking , the apple is the s malus , a r an d bro dly conside ed , of the great Rose Family , twin in relative of the pear , yet somewhat more positive char r Its o n a a u acte . bulk makes it of as much pr portio te v l e — e as a food as do its juices preventing nec ssity of medicine . M e m r th e n alic acid , that gr at g—er dest oyer , is most promi ent of its acids , but its salts its phosphates , are of equal balance

ke e in liv e r s m and n e e t . in p g , to ach , i t stines in h althful activi y An un cooke d apple eaten at n ight before re tiring (a glass of water to follow it) is one of the oldest of beauty and health prescriptions , preventing or relieving constipation , ' and giv in g cle arn e ss of complexion . The uncooked apple 26 FRUIT RECIP ES

' was of old considered Nature s complement for nuts , the eating of them together off setting too great richness (by

- - over indulgence) of nut fat and preventing indigestion . Salt was eaten with them at night to assist in digesting C acid and fat : the three forming a notable trio . ooked , the apple is also laxative , tonic and nourishing .

Fresh , sweet cider , bubbling with beauty , scintillating

- iki re co m with sun shafts , needs neither poetry nor sp ng to it mend , so evident is its simple wholesomeness to even the ’ - wayfaring man unless he be a fool . The crab apple s “ ” juice ( ver- juice ) is not pleasing un til well fermented but in age (at even but three years) attains similarity to

M - champagne . edicinally ver juice is valued . It should be mentioned here that the common crab - apple and the iff Siberian crabs are of d erent species , the latter being

’

P y ms baccata and P ym s pru n ifolea . C r ide (with the possibility of gingerbread) and apples , i i salt , and nuts at the old t me gather ngs by early candle lighting ” were more apt to be followed by sleep and health than the complicated “ refreshments ” at later hours of modern evening parties . When it is realised that in any

r reasonable form , a diet of apples rivals the famous g ape

i - cures and is a diet conduc ve to beauty , this old fashioned first of fruits must certainly come back into favour and be given its former prestige . Th e following is the analysis of a pint of the cider given regularly to day - labourers in the agricultural districts of

E V E n c ngland (according to oelker ; . Brit ) :

G u m an d Alb u m in ou s at e r E r i W Alcoh o G rap e S u g . xt act v e Matt e r Malic Acid Ash Co mp ou n ds 8 2 9 2 4 1

rs . r . rs . g g s g rs . rs . rs g g g . g rs .

28 FRUIT RECI P ES

night and simmer in it in the morning . (The water in which the fruit was soaked should be sufficient to cook it all in y the morning . ) Simmer the raisins or prunes very slowl f or an hour then add th e soaked apples and simmer to 0 s e gether till don e . N sugar hould be n eded , which is an additional reason for the healthfulne ss of the dish .

B A KED A P P L ES (W ith n uts or h on e y )

P eel the apples and core well , then place in deep pan , allowing a heaping tablespoon of sugar and half a cup of water to each apple . In the centre of each apple place a teaspoon of chopped nuts and strip of lemon or orange peel i and over the whole spr nkle cinnamon and nutmeg . Bake

- very slowly and the juice will become jelly like . Serve hot or cold .

Or a i little , fill centres with honey and butter , preparing otherwise the same .

P A P L E S O UP N o . 1

For three pin ts of soup take a pint of apple stewed soft , rubbed through colan der and sweetened , and to it add one and one- half tablespoons sago or tapioca cooked till d soft an clear in a pint of boilin g water . Simmer together flav ou rin twenty minutes , g with salt and cinnamon ; strain and serve hot or chilled .

A P 2 P L E S OUP N o .

To two quarts of water allow seven tart apples cored

C - but unpeeled , sliced thin . ook them with on e half cup i r ce till soft then rub through sieve , add spice , a little sugar , and chopped or candied fruit . (See also Fruit Soups in

Introductory Recipes . ) TH E AP P LE 29

A P P L OM L E E ET N o . 1 M k P O R a e lain melet as in Introductory ecipes . When k ffi - a coo ed su ciently to fold over , place on one h lf of it a — cu p of apple sauce or fin e chopped apple ; fold over and serve .

A P P L O M L E 2 E E T N o .

Stew , then mash , eight large apples and put through Add colander . one cup sugar and one tablespoon butter. Let cool ; whip in four eggs beaten separately ; place in baking or souffle- dish in rather quick oven and bake till brown . A P P L E S A L A DS Green or red uncooked apples may be scooped out and r an d filled with popcorn nuts , cele y , some fruit other than i the apple , mixed w th its cubed pulp , bound together with G i mayonnaise . arnish with nasturt um or grape or other C graceful leaves . hopped apple makes an agreeable addition to almost any of the vegetable and many of the

fruit salads . A P P L E S A NDW IC H ES

Spread thin bread with Apple Cheese (see re cipe) or a w chopped uncooked pple mixed ith nuts.

A P P L E C R OQ U E 'I‘ TE S

C re e s f c t on e i o , pare , and slic tart apple su fi ien for p nt . Stew these with a dessertspoon each of butter and water to —“ s a e carefully , not burn then ma h as for ppl sauce . Place in double boiler an d cook till reduced and the apple

H - n ar seems dry . ave ready one third cup of cor st ch mixed

“ smooth with a little cold water and stir into the apple with Le t c k a pinch of salt added . oo fifteen minutes, just ten e w n before removing adding one bea gg, hippi g as it 3d F RU IT RECI P ES

k al l we t coo s , then place in a flat , mould or deep dish and set aside to cool . When needed drop a teaspoon of the mixture into fine , dry , bread or cracker crumbs , then into k i . P an egg beaten , and aga n into crumbs lace in the bas et D of deep frying kettle in boiling fat until brown . rain and serve with fowl . These croquettes may be spiced or

flavoured with lemon . — B A KED A P P L ES TO S ER VE W ITII MEAT Wash and core cooking apples and fill with equal parts of

and hr m . crumbs mus oo s or potatoes Season with catsup ,

C . P k di hili sauce , or herbs lace apples in ba ing sh with a bit of butter in each and a little water . B ake till tender.

F R IED A P P L ES

e Tart apples , pared, quartered and bak d , are better than apples fried but to cook the latter with delicate eff ect place a lump of butter in a saucepan and when heated spread on it a layer of quartered and again divided or

- i fin er sliced apples . Spr nkle with sugar and a little flour n letting brown , turning , and brow ing upon second side . Tart apples and onions (two- thirds apples) may be k fried or ba ed together as indicated for apples alone .

A P P L E F R ITT ER S

Sliced apples may be dipped in fritter batter (see Intro du ctory Recipes) or chopped apples added to a stifier r D batte , and fried in deep kettle . rain and sprinkle with sugar. A P P L E P I E

Peel and slice tart apples an d place in stewp an with barely enough water to keep from burning . Stew till but half e ( u r k ; - e an t nder and nb o en) fill a pastry lin d dish or p , TH E AP PLE 3 1 which has sugar and butter sprinkled and dotted over t the bot om , with layers of the apple , alternating with the d sugar and butter till ish is full . On top sprinkle flour an d nutmeg or cinna—mon or grated lemon peel and pour over the whole three fourths cup of the apple- syrup or water P and sugar . lace a pastry cover over the top and slash ni well . The pastry li ng should be baked till a light brown a e before the apples r added. For the paste see Intro duc tory Recipes . A P P L E C US TA R D P IE For one large pie use one pint of apple Sauce and a table oi spoon butter , the yolks of three eggs beaten well with a pinch of salt and half a cup of sugar . Beat this into a pint of h ot milk and bake in shallo w tin or dish lined with crust . (Pastry must be baked before pouring in the custard) . Flavour with lemon or spice . When done spread over the top a meringue made with the whites of the eggs and a half cup of sugar .

A P P L E TA R T Fill a baking dish with apple sauce mixed with two n tablespoons of apricot or lemon marmalade . Fi ish as for apple custard pie , dotting the top with chopped citron or r candied cherries or angelica . O a simple meringue may be substituted . ENG L IS H A P P L E TA R T

Core and pare tart apples ; stew whole with as little L water as possible till tender , though unbroken . ine the edges of a baking dish with thin pie paste ; fill centre of the dish with the apples , in the middle of each dropping C a little orange or other marmalade . over the top with k a lattice of pastry strips and bake quic ly till brown .

Serve hot . 3 2 FRU IT RECI PES

S C OTC H A P P L E TA R T

Pare and core apples an d place in a crock in a slow oven with neither water nor sugar . When tender mix in Sultana raisins in proportion of one - fourth pound to each pound of

i - i r w apples . Place in bak ng d sh ; sp inkle ith grated lemon astrv w k and sugar , cover with a sheet of p ell pric ed and

o . bake quickly . Serve c ld with milk

A P P L E T U R N OV E R S

M r n o h ake simple past y a d roll ut rather t in , cutting in squares. In the centre of each place apple sauce , then i e r e r fold over by oppos t co n rs , fo ming a triangle ; pinch k d u k together; slash , or pric an b ake q ic ly .

A P P L E P AN C A KES

Make a simple batter as for Batter Pudding (see In rod ctor R i t u y ec pes) , adding two heaping teaspoons of k u t ba ing powder for each q ar of flour used . Add two cups very fin e - chopped apple for each quart of flour used and cook as for ordinary griddle cakes .

A L P F F OR F I P P E U S , L P F LA P S

M k r C i a e as for Strawbe ry Batter ups , us ng tart apples ,

r l . U se pa ed , cored , and s iced or chopped two layers of : ta n apple in the centre and on p , Spri kle with sugar and spice before baking. U se gem pans for the distinctive “ - form of Flip Flaps .

A P P L E R O L Y P OLY

Make a sweet biscuit dou gh ; roll ou t thin and spread with a laye r of Chopped apples or apple sauce or othe r apple

x . k i r n d mi ture Sprin le w th sugar , butte , a spice an d roll the dough over as for jelly roll . Bake in moderate oven one e hour , or st am two . TH E AP PLE 3 3

A P P L D MP L I G S B A K D o E U N , E , N . I P k w eel and core coo ing apples , filling centres ith sugar . Roll out biscuit dough rather thin and cut in squares large c enough to over apples . Place an apple in th e ce n tre of i each square ; bring up the corners of the dough and fasten

by pinching and twisting dough together . Place in baking pan close together and when pan is full pour over them a

syrup made with one pint of water and one pound of sugar , letting this come half way to the top of the dumplings . P lace in rather brisk oven and bake about forty minutes . C b e f innamon may sprinkled over the tops o each . This is the best form of apple dumplings though there are other

good methods .

A P P L D MP L IN G S B A K D o 2 E U , E , N .

The apples m ay be cored and quartered ; placed in earthen baking- dish with a square of dough tucked down around each (not under them) a little sugar an d water

- . e added , and baked Individual baking dishes may be us d ,

instead . A P P MP L I B L L E DU N G S , OI ED

as f or 1 The apples may be prepared baked dumplings (No . )

then each one tied in a cloth , plunged into boiling water , n e and boiled hard an hour and a half . O large dumpling

may be made , filled with sliced apples and sugar . In the i latter case it will requ re two hours to cook thoroughly , as and the water must boil constantly , being replenished

needed . A P P L E DUMP L IN G S I N C UP S

Line baking cups with thin pastry ; fill up with slices of apple and sugar ; place on each a cover of the pastry and

- put them in a large baking pan , pouring boiling water

wa an d b ake ho t . around the cups half y up , _ in oven 34 FRUIT RECI PES

A P P L E DUMP L I N G S L IC ES M ake a biscuit dough and roll out thin , covering with a layer of fine sliced apples , and roll over as for roly poly . e n d Then slice , set the pieces on (as with domino rows) , in a buttered pan , and pour over them a syrup of a cup of Add sugar and half a cup of water . a bit of butter for

a . each dumpling and bake h lf an hour , or till brown

A P P L E B A TT ER P UDDI N G

P eel , co re , and slice thin six tart apples and place in

- - t baking dish . Cream together one four h cup butter and one cup sugar ; add two eggs , one cup of milk , and two cups . of flour in which must be sifted two teaspoons baking m powder . Pour the ixture over the apples and steam one hour . Serve with cream or sauce .

I A P P L E S L UMP N o . P are , core , and quarter one dozen tart , juicy apples and i P place in a saucepan wh ch has a close cover . our over them a pint of hot water and set on the back of the stove s M for eight minute s , when add two cup of molasses . ake a soft biscuit dough with milk and roll out half an inch thick , making of it a cover for the apples . Place this paste - cover on the apples and put on tight the lid of the

. C saucepan , bucket , or other vessel used ook on top of i stove for thirty minutes w thout lifting cover . This may be set in oven to brown a few minutes or served as it is with a sweet sauce .

A P P L S L MP N o E U . 2

Mix with a milk biscu it dough (using a pint and a half of

fin e flour) one or two eggs and through it two, quarts of cut apples . Place half an inch thick in buttered baking

. pan Bake in quick oven and eat with cream .

36 FRU IT RECI PES

Ad d cooking carefully a few minutes . salt to taste , a cup P each of molasses and suet (chopped) . our over the apples ; place in baking- dish and bake two hours or boil (in pudding cloth) for three . A P P L E A MB ER

- Mix C . Core , peel , and hop three fourths pound of apples together four ounces of suet , two each of sugar and flour , and six of breadcrumbs . When chopped and mixed add a little nutmeg and grated lemon peel and two beaten eggs . Stir thoroughly and place in a well buttered mould with cloth tied tight over the top . Boil three hours .

P P L C A K i o I G ER MA N A E E (S mple ) N . or A pfe l Ku ch e n Add to one pint of the sponge for the usual light bread

- r - one half cup each of sugar and sho tening , one half tea spoon salt , one cup of milk and enough flour to make a soft glou gh . Spread this half an inch thick in the baking pan and on it place in rows thin , lengthwise slices of apples . Le t this rise half an hour in a warm spot ; sprinkle with one — fe w half cu—p of sugar and cinnamon mixed also a bits of butter then bake .

G R MA A P P L A 2 E N E C KE N o .

This form of ku che n may be made with baking pow U se der . a pint of flour in which have been sifted a half teaspoon of salt and one and a half of baking powder with a tablespoon of sugar . Rub through this two tablespoons of butter , and mix well with one beaten egg and enough

- milk to make a thick batter (three fourths cup or more) . Place in baking pan one inch thick and over the top place n apples cut i to eighths , in rows , sharp edges pressed into k the dough . Sprin le as above with cinnamon an d sugar and bake in brisk oven . TH E AP PLE 3 7

G R MA A P P L CA E N E KE N o . 3 Into a pound and a quarter of sift ed flour rub three fourths pound of butter and roll out an inch thick . H ave ready pared , cored , and sliced thin , (as in foregoing recipe) juicy apples mixed with one or two quinces and half a pound of raisins seeded . Sweeten well with brown sugar and add a little nutmeg with a wineglassful of rosewater o r P i the juice and rind of two lemons . lace this m xed t fruit on the pastry and fold over , hen put in a baking pan which has been sprinkled with a little butter , cinna A mon , and sugar . lso on top sprinkle this and while baking add more . B ake two hours in moderate oven .

DR I E D‘ A P P L E F R UIT C A KE

e Soak two cups of dried apples over night . In the morn ing chop and simmer them , until dark , (red or brown) , in Le two cups of Orleans molasses . t cool and add one cup i each of butter and m lk , one half cup sugar , three cups of

flour , two level teaspoons each of cinnamon , allspice , and

- cloves , three of baking powder , three eggs , and one half A n . pound of raisi s ( lso , if liked , a cup of currants and a tablespoon of chopped citron . ) Bake for two or two and a half hours in slow oven .

A P P L E S O L ID Simmer one and one half pounds lump sugar with three pounds sliced apples and juice and grated rind of three i lemons , until thick , when pour into a wetted mould t ll cold.

Turn out and serve with cream .

A P P L E S N OW

Apple Snow may be made in two wavs , using either the

For . cooked or uncooked apples . the uncooked grate a 33 FRUIT RECI PES

- medium sized tart apple (peeled , grated , and set aside) . a Whip stifi the white of one egg with a pinch of s lt , then

r s add , g adually , three table poons of sugar , beating well into the egg , alternating with the grated apple , a table a spoon at a time . till all the apple and sug r are used , then “ ” continue to whip until the snow has risen to at least a

n . pint and a half in quantity , for it will swell surprisi gly If the cooked apple is used , observe the same proportion , C the white of one egg to the pulp of each apple . hopped

r . dates or nuts may be added or fresh , g ated cocoanut ” The snow may be served as it is , or quickly and lightly browned . A P P L E CH EES E (Cake or Tart Fillin g) To a pound of sug—ar add one- fourth pint of water—and one half pound of apples peeled , cored , and quartered and the C f o grated rind of one lemon . ook r three hours th e n a dd

ri the juice of the lemon , boil for ten minutes , stir ng con

tin u all . U se y , then removing this as a filling for tarts or cake or with nuts as sandwich filling .

A P P L E F IL L I N G F OR CA KE M A ake as for pple Snow , using one egg , one apple , and A one cup of sugar . lso , for variety , the yolk of the egg may be added , the whole heated carefully till it thickens .

A P P L E F L OA T Make first a plain custard and when cold stir in it a pint either of apple sauce or a pint of grated apple (u h

. ff cooked) Whip in the sti whites the last thing.

j E L L IE D O R G EL A TI NE A P P L ES

To two quarts of tart apples , peeled , cored and quartered , , , allow one half box of gelatine and put it to soak in one half TH E AP PLE 3 9 M cup of water . ake a syrup of a pint each of water and sugar , adding lemon juice , peel or flavoring , and a dusting of e t D ginger . L sugar dissolve then boil five minutes . rop in the syrup the apples , three or four at a time , and let Di cook till tender but not broken . p out with skimmer and place on a platter . When all are cooked and removed put the softened gelatine in the syru p until quite dissolved i l then remove and st r till it begins to set . Wet a mou d and place in it half the jelly , then the apples in a layer m w and the rest of the jelly over the , setting a ay to chill and harden . Serve with cream .

C IDER JEL L Y To two pints of cider allow two full tablespoons of gela tine , softening the gelatine in a little of the cold cider , i heating the remainder to boiling point , add ng a pound of sugar and then the softened gelatine . Strain and turn into a mould ; cool and set on ice . Serve with rich milk .

A P P L E C H A R L OTTE Soften a half box of gelatine in a half cup of cold water

. G then heat it over steam for a half hour rate two large , tart apples and one lemon or orange and beat lightly into i i a pint of wh pped cream , then add the gelat ne and when thoroughly mixed turn into a mould and set aside to cool

ci ice . before pla ng on . Serve with rich milk or wine sauce

MER I N G UED A P P L ES

P repare as for baking . When cold fill centres with marmalade , or marshmallows , then cover with meringue made in proportion of four eggs to one pound of s ugar . Flavour with rose water or lemon extract and place in

quick oven to lightly brown . 40 FRUIT RECIP ES

C ODDL E D A P P L ES

i For this use the earl er apples , wipe and lay in a kettle , to each half peck adding three - fourths pint of brown sugar C and a half pint of water . over and simmer till tender and sugared through .

' S P IC ED A P P L ES

l To improve immature , insipid apples pee them thin and u core , and to four po nds allow two pounds of sugar , one quarte r ounce each of nutmeg and cloves and one- half P i ounce stick cinnamon . lace the sugar and spices in a p nt b of vinegar and let come to a oil , when drop in the whole apples and cook carefully till tender enough to be pierced with a broom straw . Remove and pour the syrup over them . These may be served as a sauce or kept a long time

A P . in jars . (See also Sweet pple ickle )

A P P L E C H UT NEY

Chutney is as much used in India as we of other countries use other sauces and has as many variations as catsup , for A instance . pples are used as the foundation for several On e kinds of chutney . of the simpler preparations requires

. e e le d core d five pounds of tart apples These must be p , , and cooked smooth with two pounds of brown sugar and ' two quarts of cider vinegar . When thick as is catsup before diluting , place in a crock and add two pounds of chopped raisins , a small minced onion , one ounce each of white and black mustard seed (ground) and two of grou nd on e s ginger , table poon of salt , and two or three pods of red Mix peppers minced . and let stand over night (about i u ten hours) , then stir again w tho t cooking and place in This ill . w k small jars , sealing well eep for years . TH E AP PLE 41

A P P L E C A TS UP

A si pple catsup is similar to apple butter , u ng as a foun dation plain instead of cider apple sauce . Cook till thick , for each quart using a teaspoon each of ginger , cin namon , cloves , pepper , mustard, onion extract , two of mm salt and a pint of vinegar . Si er slowly till thick , w an d rt ( hich may take an hour a qua er) , then bottle and seal while hot . A P P L E B UTTER

Use hi only very tart apples , was ng and placing in kettle with a quart of cider to each pailful of fruit . Simm er down of r till a ve y thick , smooth consistency and add just a little spice , to taste . S W EET A P P L E P IC KL E Add a teaspoon each of cinnamon , cloves and allspice (in thin cloth bag) to a syrup made with a quart of vinegar H and three pounds of sugar . ave ready four pounds of P apples pared , cored , and halved . lace carefully in the syrup , simmer till tender , and place in heated jars . Cook down the syrup till thick , when pour over fruit , filling up well , and seal . P P L E L L Y 1 A E j N o .

Do w Take sour fruit , not core or pare , merely ash , wipe , Cu t u ffi i . i and cut out blem shes up , po r over su c ent water m to cover , and si mer till very soft , when drain through

flannel bag, letting drip over night . To each quart of syrup the juice of a lemon or other tart fruit may be allowed C n e ki u fl v ourin if . as f rther a g liked ook dow the juic , s m di u f or a ming well before ad ng s gar (heated) , a pound e ch

‘ e h as b orl pint of juice . Simm r till sugar dissolved ; then , R and the jelly will form in about twenty minutes. ose m as fiav ourin geranium , int , or other leaves may be used g, or orange blossom s preserved . 42 FRUIT RECI P ES

2 W ith u in ce A P P L E JEL L Y N o . ( Q )

o See Quince Jelly N . 3

A P P L E A N D C UR R A NT jE L L Y

See Currants .

L 1 C R A B A P P L E JEL Y N o .

Do M A . ake as for pple Jelly , using a little more water not pare or core the crab apples .

L 2 C R A B A P P L E JE L Y N o .

Wash and wipe the apples ; cut in half and place in crock on the back of the stove or the oven , setting in another vessel of hot water if there is danger of too great heat . When the apples are soft place in jelly bag to drain over M hi night . easure t s juice and allow one pint of sugar to one e of juice . Boil and skim the juice ten minut s before adding the heated sugar . Stir till dissolved , then boil eight or ten minutes . This makes a very tart jelly , stronger than M many people like . int may be used to flavour this to serve with mutton or lamb .

C R A B A P P L E JEL L Y

’ U se half and half of crab apples and Maiden s Blush r apples , and make as for apple jelly . O substitute for the ' M ri aiden s Blush black or huckle or raspber es , cherries , or pineapple juice .

C RA B A P P L E L L Y N o E j . 4

2 r See P lum jelly No . . O for the wild p lum substitute wild grape . C R A B A P P L E L L E j Y N o . 5

' U se M equal parts of crab apples and aiden s Blush , and allow for each quart or pound of the cut fruit the juice

- n . P and thin peeled ri d of one lemon roceed as above .

44 FRUIT RECIP ES

' P r k . are , stems , cores , and s in lace the parboiled f uit C in syrup prepared for apple preserves . ook carefully P ro a few minutes that the fruit may not fall to pieces . A ce e d as with apple preserves . little lemon or ginger flav ou rin g will be an improvement or one-third part of orange , pineapple , barberry , or almost any berry or citrus preserve . C RA B A P P L E MA R MA L A DE Cook crab apples and sweet or wild plums separately till soft , when rub through colander and measure . To each three quarts of crab apple allow one quart of the Mix plum . and weigh and allow one pound sugar to each C of fruit . ook slowly and very carefully , that this may P not burn , till smooth and thick . lace in marmalade pots and when cold seal as for jelly . C r rab apple and apple , or c abs and quinces may be used together for marmalade or any of the berries , citrus , or other distinctively flavoured fruits . They may be put up at f dif erent seasons and combined later .

A P P L E A N D QUINC E MA R MA L A DE

M rm z See Quince a alade No . .

A P P L E A N D B L A C K C UR R A N T MA R MA L A DE

U se equal parts of currants and apples , cooking separ ately , when soft putting through co lander and mixing

. C o ff pulp ook the pulp and juice (strained ) till thick , when add equal weight of sugar and coo k till of desired c onsistency .

L EMO N A N D A P P L E MA R MA L A DE

S ee L M emon armalade . Cook the lemon and apple s eparately and allow equal parts of lemon and apple . TH E AP PLE 5

A P P L E JA M P are , core , and weigh tart apples , allowing for four C pounds of apples four pounds of brown sugar . hop apples , meantime making a syrup of the sugar with as little water as can be used ; add apples , the grated peel of four lemons , i and a little ginger root . Simmer t ll the fruit pulp is translucent and golden in colour , when place in small jars . L oaf sugar may be used , the lemon and ginger omitted , and the pulp cooked longer .

T O MA KE C IDER It is generally reckoned that the richest cider is made A s from the sweetest apples . it comes from the press pour it into a tub prepared by boring a hole in the bottom

(the plug put in very loosely) , and filled with alternate A s layers of Charcoal and gravel . fast as it filters through put it in a C lean white oak - cask in a cool cellar and let remain open till fermentation has ceased , then bung tight .

TO K EEP C IDER S W EET

I A No . . handful of hops boiled with a little treacle or honey and added to the ac e tifie d cider will assist in keeping it sweet .

2 . For No . each barrel allow eight kitchen table spoon P fuls of white mustard seed . our in with the cider .

No . 3 . If made after freezing time cider may be kept sweet (if it is free from water) by bein g kept in a tem pe ratu re just above freezing point . It may be boiled ' - down one fourth after making , which will be an additional safeguard against any change in it . B OIL ED C IDER

k . r Boil down till thic as molasses , then bottle To se ve n w ho it dilute with charge d (carbo ated) ater ice cold , or t water , spiced . 46 FRUIT RECIPES

C IDER VI NEGA R

Pour half as much water on the pulp remaining after Le squeezing out the cider as there was of the juice . t it ferment then press out the pulp and barrel the liquid . k th e Or, as apples are used in the itchen , boil skins and e w cores in as little water as possible , sw eten ith a little rm molasses , and let fe ent . Apples which are not keeping well may be boiled and ff the liquor strained o , a little molasses added , and let fer

- ment . With crab apples reduce the pressed juice one third , then treat as above .

T DRY A P P L S A L o o P A CK o E , s T

Extremely acid fruit is best for retaining flavour when Cu t dried . in slices , string or merely place on shallow

- trays , drying in fruit dryer , in cool oven or sun . If dried in the sun , heat over steam before putting away to destroy any possible insect eggs , and while . drying cover with mosquito n ettin gto protect from insects . In packing apples away for winter keeping or shipping , if elder blossoms w are placed bet een layers a delicate flavour is given .

C IDER E G G N OG

w To one egg hipped, then slightly sweetened with sugar, allow one glass of cider . Sprinkle with grated nutmeg and

a . Or serve with sh ved ice serve hot .

—“ A P P L E W A TER A C oolin gDrin k in F ev ers

Pare and core three large juicy pippin s and slice them c into a pit her or crock with the grated rind of a lemon . On this pour one pint of boiling water , then cover close and

. let stand four hours Strain and sweeten with loaf sugar . TH E APP LE 47

A P P L E TE A

Roast very tart apples and pour over them boiling water , letting stand till the water is cold . This may be sweetened

a little if sugar is permitted .

A P P L B R A D O R P O MO W I E N Y , N A NE To six gallons of new cider add one gallon of brandy and let stand from eight months to a year before racking A o ff . To make pple Jack or Cider Brandy distill the cider

alone . C R A B - A P P L E C H A MP A G NE

Crush fruit as for apple Cider and proceed as for cider

- making , but let the verjuice (or crab apple juice) stand without the mustard seed or other means for keeping it At from getting hard . the end of two or three years

the verjuice has become very similar to champagne .

A P P L E W A T ER I C ES

These may be made by more than one method . Simmer

till tender a quart of apples , pared and cored ; when cold H r put through a sieve . ave ready a sy up made according

u i i to Introd ctory Rec pes , using one and a half p nts ; mix

ing with the strained apple and juice of two lemons . r Freez e . O the apple may be added to plain cider instead

flav ou rin . of to a syrup or the cider itself frozen , g as liked Preserved or stewed apples may be frozen by packing i in salt and ice five or six hours , or apple sauce , th ck and z flavoured with lemon or sherry , may be fro en . The sauce may be thinned as first directed and a softened tablespoon of gelatine added just as the apples are removed from the mou sse it . fire , stirring till dissolved This gives the

effect . 48 FRUIT RECI P ES

B A KED A P P L E IC E C R EA M

P an d r ten k are , core , qua ter tart apples , ba ing with sugar and lemon or spice (see Baked Apples) . When cold r add one quart ich milk and cream , scalded and cooled , and freeze . F R OZEN A P P L E C US TA R D

M A C Pie ake the custard as for pple ustard , using either one pint of apple sauce or one pint of grated apple , and whipping in the stiff whites of the eggs after the custard is partially frozen .

F R OZEN A P P L E S N OW M A sn ake as for pple ow , adding for each pint of snow one pint of mixed milk and cream and a trifle more sugar ; CH APTER II

T H E P E A R (P ym s commu n is : Malacece )

H E P ms commu nis y , or common pear , ranks close to

the apple in point of family , of abundance , lati din al tu range and general utility . The wild pear grows E A n throughout urope and sia , its branches thor y ; its small , hard fruit not considered edible . But from very early times the bristling little wild tree or bushy shrub has taken kindly to cultivation . The Greeks and Romans seem to have availed themselves of this susceptibility and t the legions of the latter introduced he pear into Britain . a h e Whether gr fted on quince , t mountain ash (the rowan) , k or wild pear stoc , it flourished and now the vast majority ” of pears do n ot deserve th e epithet in sipid even yet not infrequently applied by the thoughtless who judge all by the few exceptions or by those pears intended by na ture for cooking only . There are stores of riches In the grape sugar contained I in this fruit , in its proportion of ron , in its moderate per i cent . of malic , tannic , and tartaric ac ds , its albumen , lime , pectin , mucilage , and its relatively large proportion of

’ potash and phosphoric acid and toothsome juiciness , the “ ” quantity and pure quality of which last distilled water , should tempt one to make up for the water one shou ld but which one does n ot drink copiously enough in simple form . Such general rn ildn e ss of tonic properties agrees with al

" most any type o f stomach and the laxative quality has a properly stimulating eff ect upon the intestines . The pear may be used in almost as many forms and in 4 9 so FRUIT RECIPES very much the same manner as the apple (see The ” P " Apple for all desired recipes not found under The ear , or adapt to other fruit recipes) .

RECIP ES

P ER R Y Perry bears the same relation to pears that cider does to P r apples , being the expressed juice of the fruit . e ry may be made from the ordin ary pear the better ones of the windfalls or unsalable nubbins , but there are certain ” varieties known in general as perry pears , grown especially for this purpose . These varieties lack in fra ran ce g and edible qualities , being vigorously harsh , but G E they are much prized in ermany , France , and ngland , where numerous perry orchards are set out . The fer m e n te d perry is considered superior to cider in richness and sweetness . It contains 7 per cent . of alcohol ' En c — ( . Brit . ) and will keep in casks for three years when bottled , longer , but it does not bear shipment as well as might be desired . T O DR Y A N D P A C K P EA R S Where winter pears (or those which may be laid by to mellow as late as spring) are not to be had in quantity , pears may be dried in the sun or a slow oven with the same success as are apples . This is a common practice in parts E of urope where pear tarts , stewed pears , and other dishes

are concocted from the dried fruit and thoroughly relished . In packing pears place between layers of elder blossoms to add flavour .

P EA R S UN C OOKED A B re akfas t o r S u ppe r Dish

au n atu re l To vary the serving of pears , pare , core , an d

- , flav ou re d r slice mellow well f uit , using a silver knife .

5 2 FRUIT RECIP ES

H n place half of this in a pudding dish . ave ready a pi t of bread crumbs mixed with a tablespoon of butter half wh r e d a cup of sugar , a cup of warm water , and , lastly , the pp P whites of two eggs . lace this on the pears in the dish , pouring over the top the rest of the fruit . Grate a little nutmeg over this ; sprinkle a tablespoonful of crumbs k on top with a little sugar and ba e , covered , an hour and a quarter . Remove cover and brown the last few minutes .

Serve with a sweet or tart sauce as preferred .

C OMP OT E O F P EA R S

Stew pears in a syrup as above , paring and coring , but leaving them whole unless very large , when they may be P u t halved . them in the dish from which they are to be served and over them spread a lemon gelatine or some delicate jelly of pure fruit in place of the gelatine . The m b e syrup should meanti e cooked down till thick , then C poured over the fruit and jelly . hill and serve .

P EA R T R IF L E Cook pears as for Pear Bread Pudding and fill baking dish with layers of sponge cake sprinkled with cocoanut . then the pears , etc . , pouring over the whole the yolks of three eggs whipped with a half cup of sugar . Bake till brown , then add a meringue of the whites of the eggs ; re place in oven till well coloured and serve when cold .

P EA R IC ES These may be made with fresh fruit if it is very mellow and juicy , when it may easily be put through a colander or coarse sieve , or the fruit , stewed in syrup and put through a sieve can be used letting cool and adding the juice of

i . r a lemon or a little w ne Sweet apple cider , g ape juice , or r ma t a the w per y y be used ins e d of syrup ith un cooked , TH E PEAR 53

r . mashed pea s The addition of the whipped whites of eggs , when the fruit is partly frozen , will make the ordinary sherbert . Large pears may be hollowed out and the ice A served from these instead of from dishes or glasses . cream may be made with the ice cream or custard f ou n d a d tion given in the Introductory Recipes , ad ing stewed , mashed , or spiced pears .

P R ES ER VED P EA R S

s Select small pear and peel , leaving on the stems . To one pound of pears allow a pound of sugar , and to each four s pounds of ugar allow one pint of water and one teaspoon . s M ful citric acid crystals (dis olved) . elt the sugar and acid over steam ; let boil a minute after this , then set back M and keep hot till needed . eantime boil the pears with just enough water to cover . Acidulate the latter well with citric acid . When tender remove and place in the syrup o for half an hour ; place the fruit in h t jars and seal at once . k Keep in a cool , dar , dry place .

P EA RS P R ES ER VED IN P ERRY

See Apples Preserved in Cider .

P EA R S P R ES ER VED I N G R A P E JUIC E

See Grapes .

B R A NDIED P EA R S To four pounds each of peeled fruit and sugar take a C w pint of brandy . ook the sugar with a quart of ater , P simmering two minutes after coming to a boil . lace fruit in this and let boil five minutes . Remove the pears , u i e placing in heated jars ; let syr p boil till it th ckens , th n add the brandy and remove at once from the fire . P our D off r w i syrup over fruit and se al . rain any sy up h ch may 54 FRUIT RECI P ES ooze from the pears when they are first taken from the

fire . If the pears are allowed to lie in brandy over night after being cooked they are more certain to keep well . (See also other brandied fruits . )

P EA R S P RES ER VED W I TH GIN G ER O R L EMON

P eel and quarter pears , weigh and allow a quarter pound H of green ginger (scraped) to each pound of fruit . ave a syrup prepared as for preserves and in this lay the pears L i . and g nger , proceeding as with the preserves emon peel may be used instead of ginger .

B A KED P R ES ER VED P EA R S

An y small , hard pears may be baked for preserving P with the best results . lace in layers in a crock with some lemon peel ; cover with water and molasses , half and half ; set on the back of the stove all night and bake all next day L im in a slow oven . onger cooking will not impair but if prove done slowly enough . The fruit will become dark C red in colour . ook down the syrup ; pour over the pears when done and the fruit has been placed in heated jars .

P EA R MA R MA L A DE

To each pound of rather juicy pears, peeled and cored , allow one and a h alf pounds of sugar with the grated rind

- and juice of a lemon or orange , or one third part of some

- - C tart berry marmalade or fruit juice . ook down as for other marmalades , skimming and stirring often . TH E P EAR 53

R A IS IN EE

t G For his French preserve , sometimes called . rape and “

P G . ear butter , see rapes

P EA R j E L L Y P ear jelly may be successfully made by using the richer varieties of pears not fully ripe , with the usual proportion of sugar and juice : pound for pint (see other fruit i an d jell es) , flavoured as for apple .

P EA R C H IP S

Wipe and stem hard pears . To four pounds allow three pounds of sugar , and an eighth pound scraped green gin t ger root grated . Slice thin in bits and let s and twelve e hours , then cook with juic and rind of two lemons , let ting come slowly to a boil and cooking perhaps three hours : i t ll clear and thick . P IC K L ED P EA R S

To each six pounds of pears allow a pint of cider or wine u vinegar , three pounds of s gar , and a teaspoon each of

i Le i in . t c nnamon , cloves , and g nger ( thin bags) the sugar , i i vinegar , and sp ces boil up and place in the result ng syrup

- C i the peeled pears , a few at a time . ook unt l tender ; place pears in a crock ; pour over them the vin egar and let

P o ff stand three days . our the syrup and boil it down , then pour again over the pears (having placed them in — jars) ; remove spice bag , and seal . If tartness is desired the sugar , part or all , may be omitted .

P A R A C P L A I OR F OR S H O R T C A K E S U E , N E

M A flav o u rin ake as for pple Sauce , g with spice , lemon , or

' fla v ou rin i or other fruit g , and serv ng as a side dish with shortcake (see Strawberry Short Cake) . 56 FRUIT R ECI P ES

P EA R V I NEG A R The water in which pearshave been boiled for preserves may be used for vinegar or vinegar may be made from

- crushed pears as from apples at cider making time . Or pears may be cut , boiled , and crushed and the resulting liquor sweetened with molasses and allowed to ferment . CH AP TER III

' TH E Q U I N C E (Cydon ia cydom a : Malacece)

H E C don ia Quince , or y , is a near relative of the apple

and pear , sometimes in form resembling one , some i times the other , accord ng to variety . Its history is as fragrant as the fruit itself,which among the ancient Greeks as w typical of happiness and love , and bears about it a i H still more ancient suggest on , through the old ebrew

r An w iters : that it was the forbidden fruit . d surely no fruit was ever more tempting in perfume ; more dis appointing in reality before cookery creates chemical ' ' Th e C don ia a om ca change . ( Japanese Quince "y j p ] h e is not a general cooking fruit . ) T quince is native to Greece and is now known almost as widely as the apple and pear . Its name was bestowed upon it , it is said , in the davs when flourished the ancient city of Cydonia in Crete . a As an adjunct to or basis of preserves , and as a cordi l or i i r unfermented dr nk , made as is c de , the quince is a food success and the mucilage Which surrounds its seeds is con n sidere d of value in several ways , one of its uses bei g as a t cure for sore throat , or applied , ex ernally , to other ir ritate d surfaces .

RECI P ES

QUI N C E C IDER Make as for Apple Cider 58 FRUIT RECI P ES

1 QUIN C E JEL L Y N o . When quince preserves are made the parings and cores may be used for jelly , covering them with cold water and t cooking slowly three hours or longer . Strain hrough a jelly bag over night ; boil and skim juice in the morning for fifteen minutes then strain again , measuring and plac ing in clean cooking vessel with three - fourths its weight

C . of heated sugar . ook twenty minutes or till it jells fl v i i Vary the a ou r n g used with quince as w th apple .

2 QUI N C E JE L L Y N o .

Quince jelly may be made with the whole fruit , when the juice is strained allowing the usual proportion of a L pound of sugar to a pint of juice . emon may be used i with th s as variety .

I L QU N C E JE L Y N o . 3

’ Use equal quantity of quinces and Maiden s Blush

i in - apples , add ng sugar proportion of three fourths pound of sugar to a pint of juice .

I C MA R MA L A D 1 an QU N E E N o s . d 2

Slice unpeeled quinces , barely covering with water , P and cooking till tender . ress through sieve and replace on stove , allowing one pound and a quarter to each pound C . w of quince pulp ook slo ly and carefully , stirring f re stifL P quently , till ieplant may be cooked with this marmalade for a pleasant tart tone .

I C MA R MA L A D QU N E E N o . 3 A ppl e an d Qu in c e

Use M ’ equal parts of aiden s Blush apple and quince , proceeding as above , allowing but one pound of sugar to each pound of pulp .

60 FRUIT RECI PES

to each pound of fruit . Steam fruit till tender when M place in heated jars . eantime have the syrup boiling Le t In five minutes and pour over the fruit . stand the hot water bath In oven or on top the stove for . thirty minutes , then fill up with syrup and seal .

C A N DI ED QUI NC E S L IC ES

Core and slice thin the quinces and weigh , setting aside the same weight of sugar . Scald the slices then boil hard for eight minutes ; strain and remove to a kettle containing the sugar and two tablespoons of water an d set in the oven ' m e lt o to sl wly , letting gently cook till translucent and a C deep red . arefully remove the pieces and drain , when dry placing on plates with a layer of sugar above and below . Le t stand in dry place ten hours or more ; sift over them more sugar and pack away .

DR I ED QUI NC ES

P are and slice the fruit ; string and dry or spread to dry as for apples and pears . When needed for use wash and i in soak them over night , putt ng on to stew the last water .

QU IN C E C O R DIA L To secure the juice from the quinces slice and chop in A a vegetable cutter or grate . llow a pound of sugar for

‘ each quart of juice , a handful of bruised plum or peach pits , two or three cloves , grated peel of half a lemon , and - Le one half pint of brandy . t stand in a jug loosely

stopped for nearly three weeks when filter , bottle , and seal .

P R E S ER VED QUI N C E JUIC E A N D P R ES E R VED QUI NC E S YR U P

C P See herry Juice and Syrup reserved . TH E QUINCE 61

I C H O 1 C ak QU N E NEY N o . ( e or Tart Fillin g )

This will make filling for layer cake , or , thinned , a deli cate syrup for sauces, etc . Grate two large qu inces and t n Add cook ill te der . a pound of sugar to a pint of water , cooking till the soft ball stage is reached when add the an d quince simmer twenty minutes longer , stirring most of F . or i the time tarts use th s with a custard .

I C H O N o S r QU N E N EY . 2 ( y u p fo r P an cake s or P u ddin gs ) P repare quinces as above , using two pints of su—gar to one pint of wate—r and simmer till the syrup is clear four or five minutes when add the grated quince and boil S ix or seven minutes more before removing from the fire .

B A KED O R S TE A ME D Q U IN C E S ‘

Quinces make an attractive dessert baked or steamed , using the same method as for apples and pears . Grate them for variation . QUI N C E S A U C E i Stew qu nces and flavour with lemon and serve , pulped

r . H or qua tered , as for apple sauce alf apple may be used instead of all quince . QUI N C E TA R Ts w i Tarts may be filled th quince marmalade , honey , custard , sauce , or preserves , or the baked or steamed fruit .

‘ Vary them as are apple , gooseberry , and other tarts , using merin gu e and candied fruits or whipped cream or lattice pastry strips for the large tarts ; nuts may be sprinkled over the small ones or tartlets . Q UI NC E IC E S

Make as for pear and apple ices , custard , cream , etc . , so t o th e using the quince cordial me imes t vary flavour. 62 FRUIT RECI P ES

IN S A L A DS

The quince cordial or juice , freshly expressed , may be u used to flavour the dressing , or the candied q ince slices chopped and mixed with other fruits or v egetables .

G ENER A L DIR EC TIO N S

r Quince tapioca and other lighter forms of desse ts , or

fritters , dumplings , etc . , may be made with the quince

with excellent results . See Introductory and other

fruit recipes . CH APTER IV

TH E ME DL A R A N D TH E L O Q U A T

’ (Mespz lu s )

H E Mes i'lu s German ica medlar , p , like the apple , pear , Malacece ff and quince , belongs to the , but di ers from them all in being not edible until well past the mature stage . In appearance and general characteristics it more nearly resembles the plum than any other fruit , and the loquat , ' n Mes ilu s a om ca hotimla E io ot a its cousi , the p j p (P or ry b ry ' a om ca j p ) , is commonly , though erroneously , called the

Japan Plum . The latter tree is evergreen and very hand

a is some t all seasons . The fruit pulp delicate and tender i in consistency but unt l fully ripe is tart in tone . The pits , which are rather large in proportion to the fruit , are of a beautiful golden brown hue and as highly polished as h if coated with shellac . The seeds resemble the peac pit in flavour but are more delicate . The yellow clusters of i loquats , l ke enlarged , elongated drops of pale gold (though sometimes rounded and gooseberry like) need to be well rubbed with a soft cloth to remove the downy “ fuzz when the fruit is to be served uncooked . ad The peeled , seeded fruit , quartered , is an excellent i dition to iced dr nks . The juice of the uncooked fruit

lo u at ad e makes delicious q , and a syrup may be made from it for bottling (see Fru it Syrups in Introductory Recipes) . Almost any recipe for Northern or Southern fruits may be e " adapt d for the preparation of the loquat , including the ices; 64 FRUIT RECI PES

RECI P ES

L OQUA TS S T EW ED

Loquats may be stewed when but half ripe , or when o ff fully mature , or half and half . Rub the fuzz ; remove o ff Stems and seeds , or merely wipe the fuzz and stew

fire . whole , and put over a moderate with just a little water

When partially tender sugar to taste and finish cooking.

L O QUA T JEL L Y Preferably gather the loquats when full sized but still re hard and only partially turned in colour . Wash and o n move blossom ends . Place fire in cold water , barely

r k y cove ing with water , coo ing slowl as with other fruits for jellies , till the pulp is very soft and the juice entirely free .

D n - rain ; cook dow till juice is thick and cherry coloured , when add heated sugar , pint for pint , gradually . When sugar is thoroughly dissolved cook fifteen minutes , or till

- it jells . The loquat makes a very beautiful , light coloured , rt c in t ta jelly , firm but ex eed gly tender and delicate , e semblin g tart apple more than any other jelly .

L OQU A T MA R MA L A DE

The fruit pulp left from the jelly may be put through a sieve and cooked down with equal quantity of sugar till of the right consiste ncy .

L OQUA T JA M L oquat jam , when made with the unripe fru it , as e for jelly , clos ly resembles the cherry in colour and is not unlik—e it in flavour though with an individuality of its own perhaps richer , as well as being in fragrance and

flavour rather aromatic . Both the marmalade and jam TH E ME DLAR AND TH E LOQUAT 65

are prettier if made from the whole , fresh fruit instead of from the jelly pulp . For the jam wash and seed the fruit , removing the blossom end and any discolouration or im P fir perfection . lace over the e , barely covering with cold water and cook slowly several h ours till very tender and

deep red in colour . No water will be needed in addition to that first placed on the fruit as its juiciness requires

reducing rather than otherwise . When cooked down add sugar in equal measure and continue to cook down till o — of proper c nsistency two hours or more , when as much

as four or five quarts are used . The ripe loquats make i a yellower jam , lack ng the rich colour though of excellent

flavour. CH AP TER V

Am dalus P e rsica P ru n u s P ersica T H E P E A C H ( yg , or )

P . rme n iaca A . A A N D A P R IC OT ( or. )

NOTH ER great division of fruits is the Almond

P ~ mi Am dalace ce or lum fa ly , yg , including the

a ricot a d . almond , p each , p h cherry , n plum The peach b e is held by some to a distinct genus , by others is variously classed with the almond and apricot and with the plum , adding interest to the mooted question of exact origin by the fact that Darwin held the peach to be an e v olu tionise d ' A C form of the wild almond . lphonse de andolle has led i the theorists claiming the dist nct peach origin , with China as its probable earliest home : since in that cou ntry the peach has n ot ' b e e n found in varying forms (ap roachin a p g or dep rting from the almond) but instead , has never been unknown as a distinctive , individual fruit or

Chi - . P tree (The nese een To peach , in form flattened like a tomato , is now grown to a considerable extent in

- a N A parts of the semi tropical st tes of orth merica . ) The name P ersica was given the peach from the supposition that it originated in P ersia . It has claims upon beauty of complexion , unrivalled perhaps in the fruit kingdom , and in rich , luscious fragrance few fruits can equal it , being esteemed in almost every country of the world for its flavour and daintiness of texture . P eaches must be fully ripened and sound to be entirely wholesome uncooked but in this perfect stage have been 66

TH E P EACH AND AP RICOT 67 given to even typhoid patients with success when fruits r l A as a u e are forbidden . lso , peaches have been found beneficial in serious cases of intestinal disorders among C e u a hildr n and adults alike . The pec li r acids of this fruit are apparently fatal to germs of the dysentery type and

H olbrook quotes a physician who wrote - him that in th e f “ treatment of dysentery he much pre erred ripe , sound fruit , peaches especially , to any medicine that can be sug ” gested . Fresh or stewed the fruit is laxative and re f ri e n g ra t . The seeds and flowers of peaches are used in the manu facture of a liqu eu r calle d P e rsico and the bruised pits give " a to lmost any alcoholic liquor the flavour of N oye au . The flowers were formerly Steeped to be used as a tea for their laxative quality and it is also thought the y exert “ i to a moderate extent , a sedat ve influence over the ”

U . . D . nervous system ( S ispensatory) Sometimes , according to the same authority , they have been given in i i i S infus on for irr tabil ty of the bladder , ick stomach , '

i - cou A s and whoop ng g for the blossoms , it should be remembered that they have been known to cause fatal cases of poisoning among children although in the hands i “ of phys cians they are safely used (as a vermifuge) , and a syrup prepared from them is considerably used in infantile

i E . cases , on the cont nent of urope The leaves , when

in rubbed or steeped hot water , give out a strong almond

flavour greatly esteemed in many countries . From both

o il the leaves and kernels , when distilled , is extracted , that from the kernels being frequently used as an adulterant of almond oil . A The apricot is supposed to have originated in rmenia . i The nectarine , once puzzling to botan sts , is but a All b variation of the peach . ( recipes for peaches may e applied to nectarines and apricots . ) 68 FRUIT RECI P ES

RECI P ES

P EA C H ES H A L VED (Un co oke d)

Select large freestones ; drop into boiling water for two S minutes , then into iced water , and the fruit will easily lip H out of the skin . alve the peaches ; remove pits and place the fruit on ice . When ready to serve fill the cen tres with powdered sugar , or sugar and melted marsh i mallows ; join each two halves w th short , fine , tooth

In . P picks , and place the serving dishes or glasses ass with them whipped cream .

P EA C H S A L A DS

v Peaches may be ser ed half and half with bananas , or —fifth i wal with almonds (one almonds) , w th celery and

fin e - ch o e d a le F n nuts , or pp pp or pear , with rench dressi g , simple , or flavoured with a cordial .

P A C H O P E S U N o . 1 (H ot)

Remove S kins and pits from twelve ripe peaches and stew th e the fruit with two or three of cracked kernels , a cup of sugar , and two teaspoons of sago , till tender and the C sago lear . Rub through a sieve then return to the sauce pan ; add half as much claret . as there is juice just before rv m se g. P EA C H A N D P R UNE S OU P

P n No . 2 See ru e Soup .

P A C H S O P 2 E U N o . (C old ) P are , stone , and chop peaches . Sprinkle over them

n an sugar in qua tity desired and let stand hour . To a pint of juice add one - third pint of claret ; place in a jug and cover with ice one hour . Serve with shaved ice in glasses . TH E P EACH AND AP RICOT 69

B A KED P EA CH ES

P - are and place the whole fruit in baking dish , using Ad d sugar generously if the fruit is tart . a few bits of butter and half a pint of hot water; sprinkle with chopped nuts and bake till tender . Serve cold .

S TEW ED P EA C H E S

See stewed apples and pears .

P EA C H S H O R T C A K E

M S a ake and serve as for strawberry hortcake , slicing pe ches fin i rather e , or pulp ng , and letting stand with sugar over them for an hour before using .

' P EA C H S UET P UDDI N G OR P ON E

Wash , then dry a pint of dried peaches and dredge with H i flour . eat a quart of milk and mix with a p nt of Orleans

d d - le . A molasses , then t cool to this one fourth pound chopped suet and four eggs beaten light , a teaspoon each i . Add of ginger and c nnamon , and a pinch of nutmeg yellow Indian meal to make a thick batter and into this P stir the peaches . lace in pudding cloth dipped in hot

r water then d edged with flour , leaving room to swell . Boil A P i hard for five hours . (See pple one . ) Serve w th hard sauce . This , like plum pudding , may be made the day before using . DUTC H P EA C H C A K E — I No 2 k No . G A C . No . Make as for erman pple a e , , . 3

DUTC H F R U IT mo o n s (W ith P each e s )

Make a dough as for sweet shortcake , adding two eggs , or make with sponge . Roll out the dough half an inch D thick and cut with large biscuit cutter . rop on each a 7c FRUIT RECIP ES

spoonful of peach jam or chopped , fresh peaches , and fold “ ”

. P over , forming half circles or half moons inch edges An in together and bake well . y fruit ay be substituted for peaches . P EA C H F R ITTER S

P r are and halve peaches , sp inkle with sugar, and roll in powdered macaroons (or fine , stale cake crumbs) before placing in the frying kettle . When brown drain , roll in sugar , sprinkle with a few drops of maraschino , and serve hot .

P EA C H TA R T N o . 1

Line a pie pan or baking- dish (bottom and sides or S ides

r . only) with a sweet , sho t biscuit dough and bake well w When brown fill ith uncooked , sliced peaches ; place lattice strips of the paste across the top and bake in a quick oven till the strips are brown .

P A C H TA R T o E N . a

L i ine dish as above , bak ng brown ; fill with peach sauce or the uncooked pulp fin ish with the lattice work and brown quickly . P A C H TA R T N o E . 3 M ake as above , either method , substituting meringue i or whipped cream for the latt ce strips .

P EA C H TA R TL ETS

Line (and bake) little tart shells ; fill with peach mar malade . P EA C H C OB B L E R P eel ripe peaches , halve them , and fill a deep e arthen - w baking dish ith them , leaving in a few of the pits to give

. H S flavour alf fill the dish with ice water , prinkle sugar over the peaches , then place over them a sheet of light but thick TH E P EACH AND APRICOT 7 r

P pastry . inch this down around the edge , slash the cen tre crosswise , and prick well . Bake till brown , then serve

hot or cold with cream .

P EA C H P I E

With the old- fashioned pie the crust should be first i partly baked , as for tarts , then the sl ced fruit placed in

r " it , a sprinkling of sugar , flou , and butter added , and the

top cover put on , slashed , and the whole well baked .

Tarts or cobbler are preferable .

A C A W D O R P A H S P ID E P E H P N DO Y , E C ER P I

Pare and slice the peaches and fill baking- dish (no under

i . C crust) , sprinkling w th sugar , butter , and cinnamon over

as for cobbler and bake slowly . When browned remove c P the rust whole . lace half the peaches on a platter ; r over them the c ust upside down , then the rest of the

fruit . Serve with cream .

P EA C H P UDDIN G

O cu ver a dish of pared , whole peaches sprinkle a p and D off a half of sugar and let stand an hour . rain the juice i and add to it a pint of sweet m lk , four well beaten eggs ,

- three fourths cup of sugar , a tablespoon of butter, melted

and rubbed smooth with half a cup of flour , and a little of P h the milk ; add a pinch of salt . our over the peac es b y and bake till brown . This may also be made first o ff baking the peaches with a pint of water , draining the i ju ce and using as above .

P EA C H C U S TA R D P UDDI N G

e h Us large peac es , pare , and remove a slice across the tops ; take pits out without breaking fruit ; fill hollows with 7 2 FRUIT RECI P ES

any chopped fruit , as apples or citron , angelica or raisins , adding also nuts if liked . Sprinkle with sugar and a M little cinnamon or nutmeg . ake a custard with three P beaten eggs and a cup each of flour and sugar . our this over the peaches and bake ; or , cook the custard ; cool ; pour over the peaches and serve chilled .

P EA C H P UDDI N G S TEA MED

Mix well a cu p of flour and two of breadcrumbs with cu half a p of chopped nuts (almonds preferably) . Stir

- in the yolks of three eggs , three fourths cup of sugar , a

an little lemon juice , two heaping cups chopped peaches , d , f last , the sti f whipped whites of the eggs . Place in but e re d t mould and steam two hours . Serve with peaches pressed through a sieve and sweetened .

P EA C H B R EA D P UDDIN G M A P ake as for pple Bread udding.

P EA C H B ETTY

M A s ake as for Brown Betty (under pple ) .

S H E R R I E D P EA C H P UDDI N G L ine a dish with stale sponge cake dipped in sherry , and heap on this pared , halved peaches . Spread a merin gue over the top and brown quickly by placing the pudding i r d sh in another which is pa tly filled with ice water . In

this way the top will brown without heating the peache s .

Serve with cream . P EA C H KIS S ES P , , te n M are halve and remove pits of large peaches . ake a syrup of one pint sugar to half a pint of water and cook i till it str ngs from the spoon . Dip the peaches (on a wire

74 FRU IT RECI P ES

H S OW O R P A C H F OA M P EA C N , E

E Make as for Apple Snow . ither fresh or canned fruit F may be used . lavour the sugar and egg with almond or rose flav ou rin g and have all of the ingredients ice cold b e

C . fore mixing . rush or pulp the fruit instead of grating

C R EA M O F P EA C H S H ER B ET

. Scald a quart of rich milk , dissolving in it a cup of sugar i L e t s mmer eight minutes , then cool , adding to it when cold a pint of peach pulp sweetened and flavoured . When an d half frozen add the whites of two eggs whipped , com ple te the freezing . P EA C H I C E P are and slice peaches and let stand two hours covered i with sugar , allow ng a pint of sugar for each quart of peaches . Blanch and crack a handful of the pits and add A i to the peaches . fter lett ng stand strain and to each half F gallon of syrup allow a pint of water . reeze .

P EA C H I C E C R EA M

P e i ar , stone , and thoroughly mash r pened peaches. and sweeten well . To each quart allow a quart of cream and i in ti C new m lk equal propor on , scalded . ool and freeze , i n in add ng , when half froze , a cup of milk which a few of the bruised kernels have been simmered .

F R OZEN P EA C H ES For one can or one dozen large ripe peaches use two ff i co ee cups of sugar and a p nt of water . Break the peaches S i lightly , mix w th the water and sugar , and let stand half

an hour , stirring once in a while to dissolve the sugar . Then iff — add the st whipped whites of three eggs , place in mould and pack in salt and ice for six hours . THE P EACH AND AP RICOT 5

P A C H S DR I D E E E N o . 1 P eel very ripe peaches , slice and string them in the sun , or dry on thin clean boards in oven or fruit dryer . H eat i as for dried apples before pack ng away .

P A C H DR I D 2 E ES E N o .

P S i k eel and lice thin ripe fruit , spread on d shes , sprin le S over the lices granulated sugar , and set in moderate oven sun till the peaches are hot , when dry slowly in the or cool oven . P eaches may also be dried as are cherries with syrup .

P EA C H L EA TH ER P d eel and crush very ripe peaches , sprea on platters , and dry in slow oven . It will be like leather when thoroughly dried . Roll it up and put away in bags . When needed for use soak over night with just a little water and it should then be ready for using without stewing and without sugar .

P EA C H S A U C E P R ES ER VED k S Take thoroughly ripe fruit , pare , stone , and coo lowly Add - an hour . sugar in proportion of three fourths pound Fo r to each four pounds of peaches . immediate table use u it will not req ire long cooking, but for putting up it must

l . become dark in colour and free of juice . Seal whi e hot

A C H A M c o o xE D P E J ,

Prepare as for Sauce , using a pound of sugar to each

ff . P ui . pound of fr t , It should be very sti when done lace in jars with brandy on top and seal well .

C H A M C OOK D P EA J , UN E C Pare and slice perfect , freestone peaches . over the bottom of a jar with either brown or powdered sugar and 76 FRUIT RECIPES

A on this place a layer of the uncooked peaches . lternate s wn a with the sugar till jar i full , packing do well , and le ving t we ddin so k sugar on top. Place a layer of cot on g a ed in c ke brandy on top ; tie a. paper over all se urely and ep in a cool dry place .

MA A D I P EA C H MA R L E N o .

P . C are and stone peaches , cutting pulp fine ook with k k a few of the crac ed kernels over quic fire until soft , add then same weight of sugar , cook fifteen minutes longer , and place in jars .

MA R MA L A D o a P EA C H E N .

of l - For each pound pared , s iced fruit allow three fourths

. M s we e c k pound of sugar a h ll and plac in roc in oven , k covering and ba ing like beans for several hours . When - m cooke d sufficiently to be jelly like , re ove and place in jars .

P E A C H JEL L Y

Wash and slice but do not pare the fruit , using part n u ripe and part ripe fruit (the latter firm) . P lace in earthenware cro ck and set in moderate oven or on the b ack wi of the stove th neither sugar nor water , watching care Or u s fully . the fr it may be set in ide a second vessel con tain ing hot water and let stand far back on the stove for

- twenty four hours . The juice should by this be free and

- thick . Strain over night in cheese cloth bag . Measure i and use pound for pint of sugar and ju ce , heating separately before cooki—ng together . When th—is juice has cooked down a little skimmin g meanwhile add sugar gradually re l and let boil up . If ca fu ly made this will result in ex le n cel t jelly . C A N NED P EA C H ES

See Canned Apples .

7s FRUIT RECI P ES

vinegar over the fruit or , if to be kept in a warm climate , e boil the vinegar , scalding the p aches ; in either case seal ing jars at once .

P IC KL ED A P R IC OTS OR P EA C H E S i t Place the fru t in brine for a week , hen remove , wipe , P and place . in clean jar . our over them boiling vine Of i gar , (one gallon to eight pounds fruit) in wh ch

- i has been boiled one half ounce each of whole pepper , wh te

- mustard seed and cloves , and a fourth ounce of sliced ginger .

R e - Le t . Add one teaspoon Of salt . stand over night heat vinegar and again pour over fruit . Repeat ; add fresh to the spiced vinegar to fill up jars in which fruit is packed .

P EA C H B UTTER

P r e ach e s ' an d are , stone and crush ve y ripe p , simmer in boiled cider which has been reduced to the thickness Of

TO Of molasses . each gallon the cider (after boiling) should be added a pound of sugar . To three quarts of the peach Of pulp allow a pint the thick cider and sugar . This may i be sp ced if liked . P EA C H C A TS UP

r - Steam the peaches whole and boil till educed one third . To each quart Of fruit allow one pound of (loaf) sugar but

i i - do not add t ll ju ce has been boiled down one third . Place in little bags (loosely) one teaspoon each of broken mace and whole pepper , two of cinnamon , and half a teaspoon Of Pu t i cloves . these on to bo l with the vinegar with which i the pulp and ju ce (after cooking down) must be thinned , i removing before the fru t and sugar are added .

P EA C H C H UTNEY This requires much less vinegar than apple chutney

ke a a S and may be ta n as b sis for chutney for other imilar , TH E P EACH AND AP RICOT 79

- T . O soft pulped , juicy fruits four pounds of peaches (skins and pits removed) add one and one - fourth pints i Mix vinegar , and stew together t ll soft . and pound to Of gether a half pound each white mustard seed , chopped

- onions , raisins , and sugar ; one fourth pound Of scraped ginger root (green) and one - eighth pound each Of garlic and red peppers (dried) . When well mixed add to the

— Of C peaches with three fourths pint additional vinegar . ook slowly together fifteen minutes , then place in small jars .

EXTR A C TS O F P EA C H A N D NEC TA R I NE To each pint of blanched peach pits add one quart of Fo r deodorised spirits . the nectarine use one pint Of nec tarine pits and one half pint bruised peach pits and pour Le on them a quart of best deodorised S pirits . t stand indefinitely . P A H R A E C O P R IC OT W I NE N o . I

e TO U s nearly matured fruit and mash well . each eight f Le pounds O pulp allow one quart of water . t it come to a boil then squeez e out the juice and to each gallon add two F pounds loaf sugar . erment as for other wines , bottling when clear .

P A C H R A P R IC OT W I 2 E O NE N o .

Crack the pits of eight pounds Of peaches and place in i the bottom Of a tub . Sl ce the peaches into two gallons Of i i ra n water , add ng five pounds of loaf sugar , and boil

. i together , skimming till no scum rises Strain , pour ng

i . P upon the kernels , st rring , then covering till cold lace in this a slice Of toast dipped in strong yeast and let all i ferment , stra ning then into a cask and adding a bottle f Let O sweet grape wine . stand six months then add an ounce each Of gum arabic and powdered Chalk (dissolved in a little Of the wine heated slowly) , being careful not to 80 FRU IT RECIP ES

At b e t stir up the lees . the end of a week this may bo tled and in eight months is ready for use .

DOMES TIC P E A C H B R A N DY

Make with two gallon s French brandy to one gallon A i . dd well flavoured peaches , sk nned and mashed to this the pits from a peck of the fru it and let stand two

h . mon ths , w en filter and bottle

C OMMER C IA L P EA C H B R A NDY i Mash eighteen pounds of peaches , not remov ng pits , and cover with four and thre e- fourths gallons of 9 5 a n fil e alcohol and four g llo s tered wat r , letting stand

- A a n twenty four hou rs . fter m shing , straini g and filtering add two and one - half quarts of sugar syrup and colour with burn t sugar . C R EME D E N OY E A U

P ound together in a mortar one - fourth pound peach apri cot , or bitter almond pits and pour over them one pint

r - r C wate and one half gallon spi its of wine . ork and stir and shake each day for eight days when add a syrup u d Of made of a pint of water to a po n sugar . Strain Off k the ernels and let stand another week when bottle .

P EA C H VINEG A R

se - M U peaches which are over ripe . ash and mix with in water such quantity that the latter is strongly flavoured . i To each gallon of th s add four. ou nces brown sugar and a t dessertspo on of yeas . Set the cask in the sun to fermen t

82 FRUIT RECIP ES

l i C tions , as well as the a cohol c , deluding herry Bounce u N Am are , in general , manufact red from the orth erican P ru n u s serotin a A wild black cherry , , and the merican

P ru n u s Vir in/ion a wild Choke Cherry , g , which has the power Of calming irritation and diminishing excitability adapted theoretically to diseases in which debility Of the stomach or Of the system is united with general or local ”

D . irritation (U . S . ispensatory) Of E E The wild cherry urope and ngland , called “ is in the latter country the gean , a source of valued food supplies to German and Fren ch country folk . Bran d dies , jellies , and other drinks or ishes are made from this cherry , and from all varieties beverages , chiefly alcoholic , f Maraschiu o Kirs chwasser are distilled . O the latter and are the best known though a kind Of R atafia is also made from the cherry and in Turkey Crémé de N oy e au is flavoured O Mahale b Of with the riental cherry pits instead almond , i o . Maras ch n peach , or apricot kernels is made at and Z Of D f about ara , the capital almatia , where the pulp O M Maraz u es m the arasca cherries , or q , is ixed with honey and li u eu r sugar or honey is added when distilling the q , and the greatest care in every way is taken with the dis Kirschwasser tillation . is the German fermented drink “ C ” from cherries , and herry Bounce the American .

The cherry , like the muskmelon and nutmeg , seems v m A t—o ha e been introduced fro sia into Italy by Lucullus 0 . C . about 7 B , and later was taken by the Romans to

E . ngland Whether red , black , yellow , or white , the Cherry has always been a favourite but it mu s t be fully matured and sweetened before it can be properly eaten since its

type of acidity , while medicine to kidneys and bladder , h is not welcomed by stomac s which are weak , and will quickly disorder both stomach and bowels if under- ripe alS O and is uncooked . TH E CH ERRY 83

Cherry wood has a virtue Of its own in addition to its beauty for casks made Of it are said to give the finest

. . As flavour to liquors kept therein for the tree itself , Of h as dimly ancient line , it been made a particular pet Of by the youngest nations from neither beauty of blossom , t d frui , wood , nor me icinal value , but because Americans are equally patriots and humou rists from the cradle and

the cherry , linked indissolubly with that first of American n G W n ursery tales , of eorge ashi gton and his hatchet , has “ ” become a literal family tree .

R ECIP ES

C H ER R Y S O UP

For one quart Of soup pit and crush a pint Of cherries

add to them the juice of one lemon , sugar to taste , and f a dessertspoon O tapioca or sago . Simmer thirty minutes with a pint Of water ; rub smooth through a sieve and

re - Of heat , adding one tablespoon claret and a pinch Of Le t R salt . cool , then place on ice , before serving . eserve a few stemmed cherries to put in the iced soup at

the last . C H ER R Y S A L A D

Of Ston—e ripe , sweet cherries and place in the heart each a nut p referably hazel . Serve on lettuce with mayon naise or with a cream or other dressing flavoured well with

Maraschino . (See Introductory Recipes . )

C H ER R Y S A NDW IC H E S

Mix M equal parts of candied or araschino cherries , and d chestnuts which have been boiled , blanched , and simmere in a little syrup (letting stand in this till cold) . Spread long narrow saltines or thin bread and butter with the 84 FRUIT RECI P ES

mixture ; placing two together and , if bread is used , cutting A i k diagonally to form trian gular sandwiches . spr n ling u Of cress will add piquancy to the flavo r .

C H ER R Y P UDDIN G C M C P . G ake as for urrant udding See ( arden) urrants .

UN C OOK ED C H E R R Y B R EA D P UDDIN G

Slice a loaf Of dry bread ; spread with butter ; place in layers in a pudding- dish with stewed or S piced cherries Le poured over . t stand a half hour and serve with a cu stard or German Sauce .

G ER MA N C H ER R Y S A UC E

Crush a pound Of cherries with the seeds until the meat Of the pits is tender , then put through coarse sieve , add one Of pint wine with as much sugar as desired , and boil till thick as cream . This may be spiced if liked .

C H ER R Y P IE M ake as for gooseberry pie or tarts , using tart red cher ries . C H ER R Y B A VA R IA N C R EA M

Use the foundation recipe given in Introductory Recipes , adding two table spoons Kirschwasser or Maraschino and

- t three four hs cup of chopped , candied cherries .

C H ER R Y F L OA T

Thicken the juice from a quart Of stewed and sweetened cherries with a teacup of cornstarch dissolved in cherry juice (cold) or cold water . Add juice of a lemon or orange and when cooled pour over the cherries which should be ready in the serving dish .

86 FRU IT RECI P ES uncooked cherries are very ripe indeed and very sweet the combination is not always a safe one . )

L L N o C H ER R Y JE Y . I

Le t cherries not fully mature stand in a crock on the back of the stove , or in slow o—ven till all juice is extracted , then strain , cook down one third , and measure , allowing H y one pound of sugar for each pint of juice . eat separatel , then cook together twenty min u te s o r un til it jells .

2 W ith C urran t C H ER RY JEL L Y N o . ( )

Use equal parts of cherries and currants , proceeding

o I . as for N .

W ith R as b e rr C H ER RY JEL L Y N o . 3 ( p y )

Use equal parts of raspberry and cherry as above (No

F OUR F R U I T JEL L Y (Old R e c ipe )

s r . U e equal pa ts cherry , strawberry , raspberry and cur rant , stoning cherries and saving juice which exudes . Mix and crush , then squeeze hard ; strain through linen A bag and measu re . llow a pound and two ounces of loaf sugar for each pint of juice ; put together in prese rving

li . u w kettle , boi ng and skimming It sho ld jell after t enty minutes boilin g ; may take a little longer .

C H R R A M N o E Y J . 1

e n ru Stone ch rries and weigh , allowi g equal parts of f it P and sugar . lace in preserving kettle and let stand over P night , then boil till the jam jellies from the spoon . lace in jam pots .

C H R R A M N o 2 W it E Y J . ( h Curran t Ju ice ) To six pounds Of cherries (after stoning) allow two pounds M c of currants. ash and pla e currants with half the pits of TH E CH ERRY 87

k the cherries , cracked , in a double boiler and coo thirty Add minutes , after this straining through linen bag . this liquor to the cherries (mashed) and cook to half the original H quantity . ave ready a thick syrup and add S ix pounds

of it to the fruit , stirring , skimming , and cooking till the

syrup beads . Stir in either two wineglasses of Kirsch M wasser or araschino ; remove , and fill jars .

H R R A M C E Y J N o . 3

Cook together three pints each Of cherries and currant or raspberry juice till reduced one - half when add three pounds

C C NO . 2 . of sugar . ook as for herry Jam

P R ES ER VED C H ER R IES N o . I

Preserve cherries with the usual pound for pound Of

ru r sugar and f it , making a sy up with either a little cold water

or light wine . Grape Juice may also be used . (See Grapes . )

R R —W 2 P ES E VED C H ER R IES ITH L EMON N o .

TO each Six pounds Of tart fruit allow the rind Of three

lemons , simmering the latter thirty minutes , then straining M Off . the water eantime cut fine the lemon pulp , freeing it “ M from seeds and heavy rag . ake a syrup of three pounds Of sugar to one pint Of water (using that in which the lemon

peel simmered) . Skim , boil and add cherries , letting boil Ad d i i five minutes . the lemon pulp and bo l three m nutes

longer , then put fruit in jars , pouring over it the hot syrup .

— T P R ES E R VED C H ER R IES W ITH C U R RA N S N o . 3

TO i Of e ght pounds cherries , stoned , add two pounds of i stemmed currants and sugar equal in weight to the fru t . JAfter the sugar has dissolved cook together slowly thirty

minutes . 88 FRU IT RECI P ES

C A NNED C H E R R I ES

A - In Canning cherries use tart fruit . llow three fourths r F e pound of sugar to each pound of f uit . igs , pears , or pin apples may be canned with the cherries or added later ; thus also with jam or preserves .

B R A NDI ED C H E R R I ES L f se . O U , preferably , white cherries eave a bit stem on P each one . lace in layers in jars and fill up with brandy , H letting stand two days . ave ready a thick sy rup , drain the liquor from the cherries and add equal quantity Of boiling syrup to the brandy . Strain and pour over the i i — fruit , letting stand th s t me twelve hours the fruit bottled N d a i and corked . ext y fill up any space w th syrup till e just below corks , then s al .

P IC KL ED C H ER R IES (Un co oke d )

C . P lip , leaving an inch of the stems lace in jars in layers , Of alternating with thick layers powdered sugar . Fill three F ic fourths full . ill up with cold , sp ed vinegar and seal ; or thin bags of spices m ay be placed among the cherries and plain vinegar poured over fruit and sugar .

P IC KL ED C H ER R IES (C o oke d )

To two pounds of cherries allow one pound of sugar and - P one half pint vinegar . our this boiling hot over the cherries . If the yellow cherries are used place them in the

i r kettle and bo l a few minutes with the sy up . Add S pice an d or not omit part of the sugar if desired more tart .

C H ER RY C A TS UP

c n To ea h pound of cherries allow a pou d of sugar , boiling T o . O t gether , then straining every quart Of the liquor allow go FRUIT RECI P ES

C H ER R Y JUIC E A N D P R ES ER VED S YR U P

Prepare and cook as for jelly , for the simple juice adding a half- pint Of sugar to each quart Of juice and for the syrup making an addition Of one pint of sugar to each pint Of fruit juice . C H ER R Y S H R UB

C Of . herry , shrub is a modified form the syrup To each f quart of cherries add one cup O water and stew till soft . Press and strain the fruit ; allow a cup of sugar for each

Of . pint juice ; boil to a syrup ; strain , and bottle while hot

C H ER R Y B O UN C E O R W IL D C H ER R Y R U M

On four pounds of wild cherries , mashed with the pits Le u Of . t broken and bruised , pour five q arts rum stand in stone jar or crock two weeks , stirring daily . Then press

- Of in the fruit well , add five and one fourth quarts water which have been dissolved two and on e - half pounds of sugar . Filter and bottle .

C H R R I GA R F o r Flav o u rin S al ad s E tc . E Y V NE ( g , )

S te rn M and crush orella cherries , allowing for each quart Of e Le . t of cherries two quarts vin gar stand four weeks , when , strain and bottle .

C H ER R Y V I NE GA R

Cover several bushels Of mashed cherries with water

- D and let stand forty eight hours in a tub . rain and press TO through a bag . the resulting liquor add half as much water and to each half- gallon of the mixture two ounces Of Le sugar . t ferment .

DR I D C H R R I E E ES N o . 1

Stone and spread in thin layers on earthenware ; sprinkle

- sugar over and dry in slow oven , the hot sun , or fruit dryer . TH E CH ERRY 9 :

DR I D H R R I 2 E C E ES N o . Stew cherries with a little sugar (no water) then spread on earthenware and dry in slow oven . Cook down the syrup and when the fruit is dry pour it over the cherries , a little d a e each y till all is used , drying again in the oven and r e in p at g till all the syrup is used .

C A NDI ED C H ER R IES

There are several methods Of candyin g cherries or an y '

n e . ou n d for f fruit . O method is to use p pound O sugar and fruit , placing sugar in a kettle , allowing for each pound a

- Of . scant half cup water and simmering till dissolved Skim , a d L e and when the syrup is boiling d the cherries . t the

i Off fruit cook very slowly unt l translucent , when pour the f syrup , spread ruit in dishes , and dry in a slow oven or the sun for ten hours or until dry . Sprinkle with sugar and put away in layers .

The second method , which is better for heavier fruits , i is but may also be appl ed to cherries , to make a lighter

- Of i syrup , using a half pint water to each p nt of sugar and

i i . P letting come to a boil , cook ng then for two m nutes our D i then over the fruit and let all stand a day and night . ra n add to the syrup half the quantity Of sugar used the day P previous and boil until this is dissolved . our over the

- fruit and let all stand for forty eight hours . Repeat iff the process , letting fruit stand in the sy rup four d erent

in . times , when drain and wash cold water If to be glazed the fruit should be dipped in syrup (as for s th e O cry tallising) , then dried as quickly as possible in pen air or by electrical fans . If to be crystallised dip in a syrup which will string (like candy) from the S poon and dry in oven or sun very slowly . In some places the fruit for candying is first (after wash u ing , wiping , and cutting as req ired) soaked in brine , then 9 2 FRUIT RECI P ES

placed in boiling water , the time depending upon the kind

Of fruit and its stage Of maturity .

MA R A S C H I N O R EC IP ES Z D i In ara , almatia , there are var ous special dishes made ' " " i Mam s u rn M s M w th the q or ara chino , as araschino Jelly ” and Créme de Maras chiuo . For the former beat well the yellows Of ten eggs with a little sugar an d about

- H l On e fourth as much cream . eat s owly and care l a dd M fully ti l it thickens well , then let cool , araschino é an d . For Cr me de to taste , place in a mould to harden the Maraschi' no if whip cream till st f , add a little sugar , a few

M - drops of vanilla , one tablespoon araschino , and one half as Of Of Mi much powdered macaroons as whipped cream . x

r D well and se ve in tall glasses . elightful drinks may be made by using iced orange or pineapple or other fruit i ade (m xed with carbonated water , as a basis , adding sugar an d M s r araschino to ta te) . O ice d tea may b e the foundation .

94 FRUIT RECIPES general term to sweetmeats or stood as the symbol Of all sugared and particularly mysterious goodies . The leaves of the sloe are sometimes steeped to be used as tea , and the fruit , which is so astringent as to stop the ri k flow of blood , is , when un pe , not infrequently pic led , resulting in an excellent resemblance to Olives . P i runes , the dr ed form of certain varieties of plums , are O as food the most valuable Of all of them . ver a century ago Richard Brook declared them “ both food and physick

- A Ge and such they are to day . rman chemist , Bonneberg , has extracted crystallisable sugar from prunes equal to i Of i cane sugar . W th their large amount n trogenous ele ments and great percentage Of sugar the nourishing qualities Of prunes are indisputable and virtually u n su r passed among fruits and , in the sense of being fine for the "

rm . nerves , may be te ed brain food They are laxative , giving this property to water in which they may be stewed and which , therefore , is sometimes used as a vehicle for or i L addition to purgative med cines . ike other dried fruits , prunes shoul d be pretty well softened—soaked or stewed that they may be thoroughly masticated and digested , for they are a concentrated food and their skins of a texture requiring deliberate processes whether Of softening or L um chewing. ike other pl s, or plums in less mature stages , prunes are apt to cause unpleasant sensations of griping an when eaten in y great quantity at one time . In H ungary a bran dy is distilled from prunes called

’ Zwe tschen bran u weru 0 Of , which contains about 4 per cent . f alcohol . In parts O France a strong alcoholic beverage is distilled from plums b y mixing honey and flour with them ; K irschwasser is sometimes manufactured from—wild plums ; a pleasa—nt wine is made from various kinds wild or culti v ate d and where apples are added in process of fermenta tion a strong liquor results , TH E PLUM 95

RECIP ES

P L UM S O UP M ake with large sweet plums , as for cherry soup , or use F part plums and part cherries . (See ruit Soups , Intro d u ctory Recipes . ) P L UM S A L A DS

Greengages make one Of the prettiest Of fruit salads . They may be used with bananas—halved or cubed—with r good eff ect . Sp inkle powdered sugar over and let stand

O Oil an hour or under before serving , or marinate in live , li u eu r flavoured with a cordial or q , or use the cordial alone , serving with whipped cream . (See Introductory Recipes for Fruit Salads . )

W I L D P L UM MA R MA L A DE Cover well with water and cook wild red plums until

i C n soft ; let stand t ll ool , the drain and put through a

. U se coarse sieve pound for pound of fruit and sugar , cooking down till thick . The water in which the plums m a r were simmered y be added to the fruit and suga or not , i t . as preferred , as may be set aside for other uses

S W EET P L UM MA R MA L A DE

If plums are very large , soft , sweet , and thoroughly mature , i peel and remove seeds and skins . They will requ re no P water . lace in crock and proceed as with peach jelly

i Off to extract juice . Stra n this , through sieve , and add

- . S two thirds as much sugar as pulp Simmer lowly , stir

i . ring carefully , and cook twenty m nutes or until thick

The fruit juice may be added or not .

P L UM A N D C R A B A P P L E MA R MA L A DE

See Crab Apple Marmalade . 96 FRUIT RECIPES

DA MS ON P L UM JA M

Wash , halve , and pit the damsons , barely cover with ' k n water and cook till s ins break , whe add pound for pound of sugar to the fruit and juice and cook down till thick .

For marmalade cook with the stones , putting through a i u sieve or colander to remove p ts when fr it is soft , then cooking fifteen minutes with the sugar .

A P R IC OT A N D P L UM JA M

Use half and half of apricot and plum and make by usual r method for jams . The apricots may be used d ied and soaked or steamed .

P L UM A N D L EMO N JA M

se U with greengages , the grated rind and juice of a lemon for each quart of fruit .

P L M L L U JE Y N o . 1 If the plums are very tart or bitter a little soda may be ul e ek added , about one dessertspoonf for each p of fruit , i D . e lett ng all come to a boil rain and add fresh wat r, um barely enough to cover , cooking down till pl s are tender . Strain through a flannel bag (over night if possible ; a cheese cloth bag will facilitate matters but it must not be

Let - squeezed) . cook down one fourth ; skim and add sugar in equal proportion to weight of fruit . When sugar has dissolved the juice will jell in twenty minutes or under .

P L M L L 2 U JE Y —N o . U se u u ice - — wild p—l ms , the fruit or j one third or one fourth ar p t plums with juice of crab apples . This combination

c makes a beautiful colour and deli ious flav our .

98 FRU IT RECI P ES

P L UM P A S TE For this use tart but juicy plums and cook in their own juice until soft . Remove stones and press pulp through A sieve ; weigh , and replace on stove . llow and set aside C half this weight in sugar . ook pulp slowly an hour i before adding sugar ; let latter d ssolve and boil one minute .

P - our the mass into earthen dishes in quarter inch thickness , and dry S lowly in cool oven . Remove and pack away for use in ornamenting puddings or cakes or to dilute and serve as sauce . P L UMS DR I ED W ITH S UG A R

Cu t a re open plums of some sweet v riety , but do not

P n . a d move stones lace on plates sprinkle sugar over fruit , b setting in a S low oven . The sugar will be absorbed y the i s plums , when add more sugar and repeat as long as there

ffi . P juice su cient to take it up ack in layers in jars .

“ T O DR Y P L UMS W H OL E ( A m e ric an P run e s

Take ripe purple plums and spread on earthen dishes . Dr su n t y in the , pu ting them out each day to dry eight or

fre ten hours , or use a cool oven , turning the fruit over quently . P L U M L EA TH E R

R emove the pits of thoroughly ripe greengages and mash i the fru t , then proceed as with peach leather . Add sugar to the plums . P R ES ER VED P L UMS

- With the common wild or blue plums they may be steamed or dropped for a minute or two in boiling water to loosen i the skin , wh ch may then easily be removed . After this proceed as with other preserves . With other plums prick the S kins in several places with a large needle to keep them from bursting , then place in TH E P LUM 99

layers in preserving kettle , allowing same amount of sugar . Le t all come to a boil slowly ; take out plums with skimmer ; C drain , and spread on plates in the sun . ook down the syrup slowly for half an hour , skimming often ; place

o D plums in this for ten minutes (boiling them) . rain and

n dry as before and when quite cold place i jars , heated pouring the boiling sy rup over the fruit and sealin g a once . K L D L M I P IC E P U S N o .

Pour over hard , unripe plums which have been washed , dried , and pricked in a number of places , boiling , spiced vinegar , repeating three times .

2 P IC K L E D P L UMS N o . Plums of any kind may also be pickled like cherries

(cold) , placed in jars in layers , alternating with lavers of sugar ; cold vinegar poured over , and sealed .

D D L M x B R A N I E P U S N o .

- S d Select greengages which are full ize but still hard , and place in layers in jars . To each pint of white brandy allow two and one - half ounces granulated sugar ; pour over and seal tight . 2 B RA NDI ED P L UMS N o .

Make a syrup as for preserves . When thick add two thirds part of brandy and pour over the fruit .

P L UM W I NE To four gallons of damsons add five and a half gallons

of soft water . Simmer till tender , when strain ; add fifteen pounds of sugar and S ix ounces red tartar . Strain and Or d let f erment as with other wines . a syrup may be ma e of the at r an d c k d w t the sugar and. w e oo e i h plums two 1 0 0 FRU IT RECI P ES

On e - hours . fourth pin t of yeast may be added to this and let ferment ten days covered . With either formula the bruised kernels of half the plums should be added to the mixture and let stand till after fermentation .

P L UM B R A N DY Simmer two gallons of greengages (in barely enough water Add to cover) till soft . two pounds sugar and a gallon of

n . brandy and let stand corked three months , whe filter Or cover two gallons uncooked mashed plums with one gallon of brandy , adding the cracked stones and kernels, letting stand as above .

P L UM VI NEG A R

For two quarts of plums allow a gallon of water and let

- d - stand twenty four hours . A d one half pint sugar for each gallon of liqu id ; place in barrel in warm place (where it should be shaken each day while fermenting . )

P L UM TR IF L E

Cook plums slowly till soft when rub through sieve and let cool . To each cup of pulp add the whites of three eggs f beaten sti f and a little sugar . Drop a S poonful of this on

- S cups two thirds full of a imple custard , letting the fruit meringue heap up well . Serve cold .

P L UM DUF F Mix with a sweet soft biscuit dough chopped plums

(fresh or dried) , using one quart of plums to each pint of

- o , fl ur and tie up in a well dredged pudding cloth , boiling A hard three hours . simple stiff batter pudding (see

Introductory Recipes) may be used with the fruit instead . roz FRUIT RECIPES

S TEW ED P R UN E S k 'w w Wash well , then soa over night and ste ( hole) in same E water with juice of an orange or a little sherry , and nglish a w lnuts . P R UNES S P IC ED

as P runes may be very simply spiced by stewing , above , with the addition of a little lemon peel and a half-teaspoon eac h of allspice and cinnamon , or spicing as for plums , i pears , etc . , allowing a cup of vinegar to each p nt of the

m . ri . u d ed pru nes (See pl s , etc )

S TUF F ED P R UNES

Soak large prunes over night then make an incision at one end large enough to remove stones , and fill space with chopped nuts and sugar ; roll the prunes after this in sugar ,

Ma . then dry . y be kept ten days before using

P R UNE C R OQUETTE S

Stiff en prune pulp (prepared as for soup) with fine k k crac er or breadcrumbs , adding also , if li ed , chopped n k nuts ; roll in egg , the in crumbs , and fry in deep ettle of boiling fat .

P R U N E B ETTY A N D B R EA D P UDDIN G M k a e first as for apple Brown Betty . For bread pud ding see Introductory Recipes , and P ear Bread Pudding.

P R U N E DUMP L I N G S A N D S UE T P UDDIN G M k A a e as directed in pple and Peach recipes .

P R UNE P O NE OR B R EA D

Scald one - half pint cornmeal ; stir into it two cups of flour (preferably one of graham and one of white) ; one a ; k half cup mol sses one cup each sour mil and washed , TH E PLUM 1 0 3

s U se chopped , dried prune . with milk one scant teaspoon soda . Steam in a mould three hours or bake two (moder

. or ate oven) Serve with sweet sauce rich milk .

P R UNE C A KE H ave ready a cup of chopped nuts and two of chopped , A dried , steamed prunes . lternate these in layers with

m - cake batter ade with three eggs , one and one half cups

- - sugar , three fourths cup sweet milk , one half cup butter , and one teaspoon baking- powder sifted through three cups

. r of flour Bake in moderate oven till done through . O

. this may be all stirred together .

P R UNE R O L L M A P ake as for pple Roly oly , baking or steaming .

P R UNE S H OR TCA K E

Flavour stewed prunes with orange , cherry , or other tart fruit juice , mash to a pulp and serve as for strawberry

S hortcake . (See Strawberries . )

P R UNE TA R T

Line S ides of baking- dish with pastry and fill middle of dish with fresh or soaked , pitted prunes . Sprinkle over them sugar with a tablespoon of flour and bake . When fruit c is tender and jui y pour over it the yolks of three eggs ,

- beaten with a spoonful of cream , one half cup each of sugar and cake crumbs . Bake till done when place on top a meringue made with the whites of the eggs and half a cup

Le t . of sugar flavoured with vanilla . brown

S H E R R I E D P R UN E S

d a Wash , then soak prunes over night , simmering next y ,

in . H k very little water , till tender enough to pit ave soa ing 1 0 4 FRUIT RECIPES a half- box of gelatine (this quantity to each ori ginal quart of prunes put to soak) and place prunes with the gelatine Add in stewpan till gelatine is thoroughly melted . a heaping teaspoon of sugar , the grated juice and rind of two oranges and one- half cup of sherry ; remove from fire ; let k h . cool , t enplace on ice to chill This will not ma e a solid form but S hould be of the consistency of thick custard .

P R UNE S P O N G E

This may be made with the prune pulp instead of the whole fruit . (See Introductory Recipes . )

P R UN E G EL A TIN E

Allow one- half box of gelatin e to each pound of prunes which should be soaked over night (after thorough washing) ,

d . H t simmere fifteen minu—tes , and pitted ave the gela ine soaking in cold—water one- half pint of water to each half box of gelatine and when soft pour on it one pint of boiling water with juice of two lemons and one and one l Le ha f cups of sugar . t cool , stirring till it thickens slightly h when place alf of this in a wet mould . When firm lay on it the prunes and pour over them the rest of the jelly .

The gelatine may be made into plain lemon or wine jelly . instead of being merely flavoured with lemon . Serve w with hipped cream .

P R UN E S OUF F L E

Take one- half pound stewed prune pulp (prepared as for ; - soup) add juice of one lemon , three fourths cup of sugar , ff - and the sti whipped whites of four eggs . Turn into the ffle sou dish , sprinkling sugar over the top and baking In k bris oven ten minutes, or till brown .

CH APTER VIII

TH E N O R T H E R N P A P A W (A simin a triloba)

A Asimin a H E common wild Northern , merican papaw ,

triloba A n on acece C A , belongs to the , or ustard pple

Family , which has very interesting tropical members a G in f ct , according to ray , they are all tropical except i U " A s min a P . the single genus , , apaw of the nited States Ye e Carica t th tropical papaw of the West Indies , the — P a a a ff p y , is an entirely di erent fruit not related , as so often supposed to be . The wild Northern papaw inspires extremes of admira i tion or dislike as a fru t food , but those who decry it are very often those who once were too fond and over- indulged N in its richness . ortherners are not accustomed to using " it in any way except out of hand , but it may be baked e r i or used in delicate d sse ts such as gelat ne , cornstarch , or egg combinations , even using it as filling for tarts . For tarts it m ay be spiced and used as is pumpkin -pulp

(cooked) for pies . The papaw has fine tonic qualities but it is so rich and nourishing a food that it is anything but “ light " and should not be used in great quantity in connection with other concentrated , or with lighter foods , if the latter ” spread the board in great abundance . CH APTER IX

T H E W I L D N O R T H E R N P E R S I MMON

Diospyros Virgin ian a

H E N Dios racece wild orthern persimmon py , gener ally considered o f the Ebony Family) is a very nour ishin i g , attractive and delicious fru t after being touched by frost when in its sweetness and form it proves the “ D P . applicability of its nickname , ate lum It has enor mous riches of sugar and is fattening as well as toothsome

’ all of which the possums and other wild creature s dis co v

- i . ered centur es ago These veritable sugar plums , the

i l - astrin familiar , oddly wr nk ed lumps of sun transmuted y h y i gene w ich hang temptingl among qua nt , tinted

m ay a . leaves , be used in number of way s for the table

e rsim It must be remembered always , however , that the p " i mon is a hearty food , contain ng con centrated riches — chie fly of sugar and so m ay not be eaten in quantity P i indiscri minately . roperly treated it w ll keep a long time and its possibilities as a food will surprise those who care to experiment aff ectionately with it .

d r lace th e n To y it for future use hang in a cool , dry p , use K it uncooked , or in cookery as is the aki , or Japanese per e simmon , or the date . It may be ferm nted by the usual processes for wine , beer , and vinegar . The seeds , browned t in the oven and ground , are in some par s of the South used as a substitute for coff ee . CH APTER x

TH E G RA P E (Vitis)

' H E r itac ce b O d . V e grape (Nat . ) is y common consent ranked next to the apple in point of concentrated health value ; by many it is put first and no fruit has been “ ” n so widely used as a systematic cure , one recog ised by the medical profession as filling perfectly the promise or meaning of this term . The foreign , scientific and practical - method of taking this treatment under the care of physi cian s , is no more unusual than the taking of mineral waters at resorts established in the vicinity of medicinal springs . Its health- giving qualities were known ages ago and its habitual use in the form of the S imple fruit , the un fermented juice , or wine , are mentioned familiarly in the earliest

Biblical and secular historical records . The old Greeks and Persians valued it and preserved the fresh fruit as far s out of season as possible , making al o a syrup which con tain e d its fl V Ur fresh a O and aroma . In the grape - cures diff erent kinds of grapes—those varying in sweetness , etc . , are used , as individual cases seem to require . Some grapes contain as high as 3 0 % of sugar or as low as ro % an d this element is one of the most important contained in the fruit . There are also in it u m albuminous matter , g , dextrine , tartrates of soda , potash , phosphoric acid , lime , magnesia , and iron , and a large per “ . . H cent of water In addition , as olbrook states , No i grape s entirely devoid of the vinous acid , similar to the l “ ma ic acid of the apple , and some grapes contain con ” side rab le tannin and fatty oils . The colouring matter

ro8

I 1 0 FRUIT RECIPES

(AS food for stock- grape seeds are considered as good as oats in some portions of Europe , and , dried and ground , are used by peasants as a substitute for coff ee) . Raisins are the dried form of grape as prunes are of certain plums , and , like prunes , dates , and dried figs , etc . , contain concentrated food value . They have more pro tein , fat , carbohydrates , and ash than prunes and more fat r and ash than dates , figs , or dried apricots , anking in fuel ’ E A M. . O . value close to them . (See W . twater s and ’ Jaff a s tables of food values appended . ) Raisins are an i i ff excellent d et comb ned with other foods , furnishing su i s t cient sugar of them elves to sweeten mos dishes , but they - S hould be either cooked till the S kins are thoroughly tender S S or , if eaten uncooked , the kins hould be eschewed as well as the seeds , as neither one can be recommended as readily digestible . — The commercial name of the P assu lw minores the

i i - smaller , dr ed , redd sh or bluish , sweet , thin skinned “ — berries of the grape is Corinthian raisins or Zante C n Cor urra ts , the first name being directly derived from in th , near which place they were first raised , and from their resemblance to garden currants (see Currants or Berries) ; though some authorities claim the naming of currants “ ” from these grapes , reversely . The currants of commerce are dried in the sun and packed when their food value is positive and concentrated , similar to that of raisins . If eaten with regularity it is claimed they are blood purifiers as well as nourishment . Those who suff er from uric acid troubles are sometimes U advised to eat certain quantities ( p to eight ounces) daily .

They may be served alone , scalded , or as adjuncts to other S dishes , but , while the kin is thinner than that of raisins they S hould be thoroughly masticated and in the case of

use for children , previously softened or chopped . TH E GRAPE I I I

GRAP E RECIP ES

TO P R ES ER VE G R A P E S UN COOKED There are several methods of doing this and the attempt is worth making as grapes uncooke d are at their best in fla “ - vour and health giving elements . Unfermented grape juice e v alu e the next best m thod of keeping the full grape .

G RA P S IN S A W D S T S A D A S H S A N D C OTTO E U , N , E , N

' An - at old fashioned method of keeping grapes (which , t i the star , must be without blem sh) was similar to methods now used with white grapes or those shipped any distance : packing in bran or sawdust thoroughly dried in the sun or

S moderate oven , then allowed to cool perfectly , preading a layer of sawdust on the bottom of a box, then a layer r of the f uit , with bran or sawdust between so that bunches cannot touch . The last layer of bran should be rather thick and the top of the box screwed on so that the grapes may both be air tight and not jarred more than n e ce s

F - sary . ine , well sifted wood ashes and sand were also for merly used in this mann er and not infrequently cotton wad w ding was employed in the same ay .

G RA P ES S EA L ED W ITH W A X

H ave ready hot sealing wax and in it dip the cut ends

- of each bunch stem . Remove all imperfect grapes and place b u n ch in a bag of thin paper or a sheet of some soft i paper , gathering it up at the corners and tying around the stem snugly , fastening to the latter a string by which it may K be hung till needed . eep fruit if possible in a cool , dry , dark place .

B OTTL ED G RA P ES (comm. Lif e in America)

Cou n tr Li e in A me r French vine growers , according to y f fiv e Six ica , preserve grapes by leaving or inches of stem 1 1 2 FR UIT RECI P ES

when cutting the bunches . These stems are inserted in

- large mouthed bottles of water , the grapes themselves hanging outside , and the bottles are placed in racks in cellars where there is a uniform low temperature .

I UNF ER MEN TED G R A P E JUIC E N o . — H eat the thoroughly ripe grapes slowly in a double — boiler or crock on the back of the stove or in a slow oven . When the skins are tender strain through cheese cloth bag v without squeezing . When juice has been replaced on sto e u and is at boiling point , add half as much sugar as j ice

L e t dissolve perfectly then seal while hot .

A P o 2 UNF ER MEN TED G R E JUIC E N .

i Wash , crush , and heat the fruit , simmering for th rty C n minutes . rush agai , strain , and squeeze hard through a ’ h dd bag . Replace juice on stove , let boil and skim , t en a

- u h ~ one fo rt pint of sugar to each pint of juice , letting dis solve and boiling about S ix minutes . Fill heated bottles and seal at once .

F R M T D G R A P IC o W ith ou u UN E EN E E JU E N . 3 ( t S gar)

M e H t ash , boil , and pr ss grapes . ave bot les ready on a F false wooden bottom in a large boiler . ill bottles with the cooled juice , pour cold water in the boiler up to the the necks of bottles , let the whole heat , and boil for ten AS minutes . the juice may evaporate the bottles S hould S n be filled up from one pecial bottle . Cork a d seal while hot . F R M T D G R A P I W i h UN E EN E E JU C E N o . 4 ( t ou t S u gar)

A second method of preserving th e juice without sugar is to mash the fresh grapes before heating them . Strain off the juice , then heat to boiling point as above .

“ 4 FRUIT RECIP ES

C A TA W B A W I NE

Allow a quart of soft water to each gallon of crushed e fruit . L t it stand one week ; strain , and to each gallon S allow a pound of loaf sugar . This hould be fit to bottle in a year . R A IS I N W I NE

To each thirty pounds of chopped raisins , stemmed , k dried , and well loo ed over , allow three gallons hot water, i steeping in this a day and night . Stra n and press without bruising seeds ° add an ounce of crude tartar ; place in Add barrel and set In a warm spot . two gallons additional of hot water in which has been dissolved three pounds of Le t white sugar . ferment ; cover with a blanket ; place k bung in tight and let stand three months , when rac off into a clean barrel and close tight . Fit to bottle in a year . S H ER R Y O F R A I S I N S

To each quart of soft , boiled water , when cool , add a pound of raisins chopped , letting stand four weeks , stirring often . Strain liquor from the raisins and place it in a m o ff sealed jug. In a onth rack it , being careful not to disturb the sediment . To each five gallons allow the juice of six oranges and the rind (which should have stood

- twenty four hours in a quart of brandy ) . Stir in also three u po nds of loaf sugar for this quantity and mix all well , placing in a cask and bottling in four months .

G R A P E VINEG A R

For this use wild grapes , pressing out juice , boiling down

- - till one half the original quantity . To three fourths barrel add three gallons of molasses ; put in a warm place to i ferment , after wh ch close the bung . TH E GRA P E I I 5

G R A P E C O R DIA L

1 To every quart of unfermented juice allow a tablespoon

- each of cloves , cinnamon , allspice , and one half pint brandy ,

Le t boil up before adding brandy . Seal .

H OT G R A P E P UNCH

Use three sliced oranges for each quart of grape wine H and several broken sticks of cinnamon . eat the spice

and grated rind of the oranges with the wine ; strain , and

add the sliced oranges .

G RA P E C A TS U P

r To each five pints of g apes allow one pound of sugar ,

- a half pint of vinegar , and one half ounce each of cinnamon ,

cloves , and mace . Boil sugar and vinegar together fifteen H m minutes . eat the pulp and skins eantime ; let cool and rub through a colander ; add this to the vinegar and

o w . too . sugar , co king t enty minutes If thick reduce

G RA P E C H UTNEY

Use one quart of seeded grapes (not yet ripened , though

- n full S ized) and one and a half pou ds of tart apples .

Place in preserving kettle with an ounce each of garlic , h s grated horseradis , ginger , mu tard , four of salt , one salt

spoon of cayenne pepper , a pint of vinegar , and one cup of S stoned raisins . Simmer lowly till thick when rub smooth ,

- add one half pint brown sugar , and let stand a week (in earthenware) , stirring each day . Then place in small jars

w dr k . and cork , putting a ay in a y , dar , cool place

GR A P E B UTTER

Simmer the pulp of grapes (either green or ripe) till ki tender ; put through a colander , then add s ns and cook I I 6 FRUIT R ECI P E S

l w till tender , when the sugar must be stirred in , al o ing

- C one half pound to each pound of fruit . ook till thick and seal . S W EET G R A P E P IC KL E

To seven pounds of grapes allow four pounds of sugar and one quart of vinegar . Tie spices in a thin bag and cook P with the syrup . our the latter , when thick and boiling,

re - on the grapes . Remove , heat , and pour again over the fruit for two successive davs , then seal .

G R EEN G R A P ES P IC KL ED

H u - Si ave the grapes (not yet colo red but full ze) stemmed , washed , and drained and let stand in brine twelve hours , when drain and rinse . Spice vinegar as f or other pickles but let it get cold before pouring over the grapes .

S P IC ED G R A P ES The whole grapes or the pulp alone (put through a col ander) may be spiced , proceeding as for spiced apples , plums , or prunes .

W I L D G R A P E JEL L Y N o . I (W ith C rab Apple)

- Wash , stem , and heat grapes , adding to them one third part crab apples , simmering together with barely enough water to cover and keep from burnin—g . Crush the fruit gently and cook till soft and breaking about two hours . M Strain without squeezing , letting drip over night . easure i ul juice and let heat , sk mming caref ly . Allow one pint of sugar for each pint of juice and proceed as f or other

jellies . W IL D G R A P L L E JE Y N o . 2 S P IC ED

Cornelia Bedford gives the following as vouched for ” ‘ k Table Talk c . by an old house eeper ( , O t o s)

E I I 8 FRUIT RECI P S

‘ R AIS INE

This is the famous French marmalade or butter , using equal weight of grapes and pears . Simmer the grapes alone in a first , till soft , just a little water , having w shed , seeded , P and stemmed them . ress through colander and add the '

co ke d b u t . pears , u n o pared , cored , and sliced Simmer and stir till thick when sweeten and strain and place in jars . B R A NDI ED G R A P ES (W h ite o r P u rple ) Remove all imperfect grapes from the bunches and prick each one left on the bunches in two or three places . P lace a lay er of powdered sugar on the bottom of the jars to be used , then put in a bunch of grapes , alternating sugar F and grapes till jars are nearly full . ill up remaining 7 S pace with brandy ; cover jars and set away .

G R A P E F A R I NA

e Stew clean , stemm d grapes till soft enough to put A through a sieve . llow for each cup of this two table spoons of farina and p roceed as for blackberry farin a .

G R A P E S O UP

Allow a half pint of sugar to a pint of water and simmer clear before adding a quart of grape juice (P ress ripe grapes through a sieve) and juice of a lemon . H ave softened a n o S tablespoo of tapi ca, and immer till clear with the . juice . Remove and serve hot or cold ; for the latter cooling and ic adding shaved e .

G R A P E S A NDW IC H ES

Seed and slice thin , skinned , white grapes ; mix with chopped nuts and apples , binding together with French dressing and spread on buttered rounds of thin - S liced white bread .

I 2 0 FRUIT RECIP E S

Le t Seeded raisins . all cook together till raisins are S thoroughly soft , skimming well and stirring after kim

i Le . m ng . t cool and serve as sauce or dessert

R A I S I N W I NE A N D S H ER R Y

See Grape recipes above .

R A IS I N S A N D R IC E

- r To three fourth s cup of rice allow one cup of aisins . H ave washed and dried the rice , and place it in rapidly boiling water (two quarts , salted) for fifteen minutes , when it should be quite tender and flaky . Remove and drain H in colander and steam over boiling water . ave the raisins washed and simmered till tender in just a little water . When the rice is done mix raisins and juice with it and serve . ’ R A I S I N R IC E P UDDI N G

A . llow one tablespoon of rice to a quart of milk , salted

- Boil together half an hour , then place in baking dish with fre one cup of washed raisins and bake an hour , stirring quently (a little sugar may be added if liked) . The last half hour the crust should be allowed to form before stirring in ; the last time let brown lightly and remove from oven . EN G L IS H P L UM C A K E

On e pound of flour ; four ou nces each of drippings or i butter , Sultana rais ns and currants ; S ix ounces sugar ; two ounces candied peel of orange or lemon ; two eggs ; two teaspoons baking- powder ; grated rind one lemon and

a scant half pint of milk . Take an extra ounce of sugar (use for this the lump or cube sugar) and burn it brown in

‘ a saucepan , then pour in on it the milk ; stir till it is coloured

well ; strain and cool it . Rub the drippings into the flour , TH E GRA P E 1 2 1

n add sugar and the eggs well beaten , the Sulta as and candied peel , and milk . B ake nearly two hours .

EN G L IS H P L UM P U DDIN G

On e - pound each of bread crumbs , flour , suet , currants ,

- and raisins ; one half pound each of almonds , candied S citron , and sugar ; one hort pint West Indian molasses (Ne w Orleans) ; one orange gr ated ; eight eggs ; one nut of meg grated ; one teaspoon each salt , cloves , ginger , and i P i allsp ce . repare rais ns and currants , then dredge with flour and mix with the chopped citron and blanched al Mix monds . the suet with the flour , crumbs , sugar , salt , i sp ces , and orange peel , adding next the eggs , milk , and

- fruit . Scald and dredge a large , strong pudding cloth and lay on it the pudding ; tie well and daub the string i hole w th dough . The pudding must be placed in boiling oi i water and b l eight hours , but it may be bo led six or seven hours some days before needed and finished the day it is

served . C U R R A N T L OA F

To a quart of flour add a quarter pound of butter , and i a half cup of sugar , rubbing in well . Scald a pint of m lk D and cool , adding a half pint of cold water . issolve in this a Small yeast cake or tablet and add to the flour

(making a very soft , thin dough) , letting rise until light , Add which will be under three hours . two or three beaten eggs and a cup and a half to two cups of currants , floured ,

- stirring and setting to rise again in a greased cake pan . In two hours bake in temperate oven for about an hour . CHAPTER XI

T H E OL IV E (Olea Eu ropwa)

0 STATE that the olive has from an unremembered i limit of time been the sy mbol of w sdom , peace , 15 chastity , and victory , to concentrate volumes of pane

An d gy rics . there are truly ages of experience eloquently suggested in the very repression of intensity of colouring

i - possessed by the s lent , dignified , mystic looking gray green trees which live on indefinitely through centuries . Typifying the fat of those lands “ flowing with milk and honey ” which across the seas stretch back into impene trab le dimness , and its fruit literally giving it forth, its leave s resemble rather the muscular tissues of ancient Greek youths whose graceful bodies were not per m i te d S t to accumulate unnecessary or oft flesh , for these

i - i slim , somewhat w llow l ke leaves are apparently almost ff n devoid of sap , firm to the point of sti ess in texture . E a A The olive of urope n and siatic countries , now also

y A - C thoroughl a product of merican alifornian soil , growing , n too; eve on south walls in parts of southern England , is o il known to the world through its , its pickled and dried fruits . The first is often adulterated with those excellent oils of th e cottonseed and peanut (which should be allowed i to appear under the r own names , however) and poppy and other oils , but the adulteration is the more easily detected that olive oil congeals at a higher temperature than the other oils . It is the fleshy part of the fruit instead of the oil i seed which gives the and of th s there are several grades , i the virg n oil , or best grade being carefully pressed from

TH E OL IVE 1 2 3

olives plucked before perfectly mature . Other grades are manufactured from whole olives at other stages or conditions , or from the already pressed pulp thrown into boiling water , from which the fat is skimmed , and some of the lower C b grades (for astile and other soaps , etc . ) are procured y certain processes of fermentation . It is a matter of medical history that olive oil is nourish ing , fattening , laxative , and easily digested ; that it is

' soothing to th e stom ach and intestinal tract and lessens the harmful eff ect. of acrid poisons or other harsh fluids . b e au tifie rs It is one of the greatest known , a cupful each b i day uilding up the whole system , ton ng the nerves , and fi — i i making the flesh rm the sk n soft . It is a sooth ng and relaxing food for the skin ; in some countries is thought (so applied) to be a preventive of the plague and in the earlier stages of the disease to sometimes even cure it . For culinary purposes it is in salad dressings that olive oil gives the artistic and gastronomic eff ects that tend toward health (when combined with sufficient simplicity)

For and enriches the blood . ( prop ortion and combination for salads see Introductory Recipes . ) The plum - like fruit of the olive when unripe and u n i pickled is not pleasing in flavour , resembl ng a combina i o C i t u h . tion of pepper , salt , and v negar , with a pecul ar acrid But pickled the olive becomes with most people a much i desired article of diet , act ng as a spur to the palate as well as being a source of nourishment and by some claimed For to assist in the digestion of other foods . ( Imitation

Olives see Index to P lums . ) Olive wood is susceptible of an unusual polish which brings out strange , beautiful spots and streaks of cloudy black merging into green and yellow hues . The leaves and bark were once supposed to possess qualities similar to those of cinchona bark and the gum also was ’ I 2 4 FRUIT RECIP ES

- - thought to have health giving elements . To day o nly certain chemical extracts (prepared chiefly in France) call forth healing power from the leaves and in such prep s aration are sometimes given in fevers , but the gum is used almost entirely for perfumery where used at all , as among the Italians .

A D - There is a species of merican olive , The evil wood , Ame rican a (Olea ) , which grows wild in some of the more southern states , which has a flower attractive for its sweet scent , and its fruit is considered fit subject for pickling. ' Save the wild crab apple blossom the sweet or Fragr ant Olive (Ole a fragran s or Osman thu s fragran s) of Japan and C hina , has no rival in the botanical world in , delicate yet distinctly penetrating and rarely exquisite fragrance .

I 2 6 FRUIT RECIPES origin and merge exact dates because of present riches

Broadly speaking , there are three classes of melons , to the first belonging the larger , watermelons ; to the second sk the mu melon , canteloupe , and nutmeg group , and to All the third the citron melons . of them are members of Cucu rbitace ae G F the , or ourd amily , to which , also , the

. r pumpkin , squash , and cucumber belong The wate melon , ” Citru llu s citru llu s , is , in a sense , a thing apart , being considered a distinct genus . It is in this , with its many

A . varieties , that we particularly revel in merica The

Kau k or itru llus u tillissimu s o (C ) , is a favourite variety of melon in India . It is rather a small , oval , and yellow meated melon of which both the flesh and seeds are prized the former pickled or used in curries , or uncooked . The oily seeds , when round , form a farinaceous meal ; the oil , d extracted , is used for lamp oil ; the seeds are also use E an d A medicinally . In gypt rabia the favourite melon is the Chate (Citru llu s chate) which much resembles the

American watermelon . Ou r grandmothers made good use of all three of the i types known to the Un ted States . The citron melon was i i ’ espec ally esteemed for r ch conserves . On the other hand it made the simplest of sauces . The canteloupe group was a b asis highly regarded as for pickles and marmalades , and r the wate melon as conserves or medicine . This l ast melon u is partic larly refreshing , arriving as it does with the

. U greatest heat of the year nripe , like the muskmelon , Cu cu mis melo ( ) it is apt to produce unpleasant , colicky s symptom , but thoroughly ripe furnishes safety to th e system with the carrying away of any feverish tendency . A mong many foreign peoples , as formerly in our own c country , the fresh simple jui e is considered excellent for the liver , kidneys , and bladder , and the seeds , like those of “ the pumpkin and cucumber , bruised and rubbed up with MELONS r2 7 w ater to form an emulsion , are given for catarrhal dis D orders . The ispensatory of the United States (Wood “ and Bache) to- day recognises in its list of unofficial di reme es , the refreshing and purifying qualities of water “ melon seeds and states that an infusion of two ounces , ” r d k ad ibitu m b uise , to a pint of water , may be ta en l . s The freshly expres ed , simple juice and a preparation called " watermelon honey , or are in high repute among the peasants of Russia and used in dropsy ,

n . chronic congestion of the liver , and i testinal catarrh

The watermelon , though more bulky , and having one tenth per cent . of fat where it is reckoned the muskmelon has none , has less of the richness of the fruit sugars , less ash , in protein , and heat producing or energy value and its very lack of actual food elements is one of the simplest , most ’ wholesome of nature s purifiers . (See tables appended for figures regarding food value of melons . ) RECIPES

TO S ER VE CA N T E L O U P E S S IMP L Y

Can te lou pe s should be placed on ice and thoroughly hi cu t e i c lled , then in half and the seeds remov d , be ng care ful not to scrape out the delicate pulp nearest the seeds as P this is the most spicy portion of the fruit . lace the ice halves on plates of cracked , reversing the usual order of serving ice in the hollow of the melon , as by this latter method the flavour is drawn out instead of preserved with u in the p lp .

T O S ER VE W A TER MEL O N S IMP L Y (Thre e W ay s )

I . H ave the melon thoroughly iced , then slice across m about an inch thick , re ove the rind and cut th e solid red I 2 8 FRUIT RECIP ES

pulp in to cubes , diamonds , hearts , or other shapes as de

P in sired . lace salad bowl or individual dishes , dust with

fine sugar , and serve at once .

2 Cu t i . in , inch sl ces across remove rind and serve the heart (each large slice) of the red pulp in round or oval form ; S prinkle with sugar . If cut into small rounds or ovals (inch length) S prinkle with maraschino and serve as cherries or plums .

3 . If the melon is preferably to be placed upon the table whole it should be held lengthwise to ward one ; the knife inserted near the top and cut diagonally downward (instead of straight down ward) toward the other end , leaving four or five inches as a base . Three inches to the left of the point where the knife was first inserted cut again , this time diagonally toward the far end of the first line of cut , thus making a i pointed tongue . Cont nue to cut up and down in this manner until the melon is completely cut around , when two equal sets of points will result , and these jagged h alves of the melon can easily be pulled apart . (The melon may

r be plugged or halved twelve hours before se ving , filled with wine and let

NUTMEG B A S KETS Tie a string around the melons that the halves may be plainly marked to the eye , then from one end cu t a strip

Re (both ways) an inch wide and reaching to the string . move the side sections and from the baskets thus formed ” A take seeds and threads . lso cut the sweet pulp care it b e fully so that will in dainty bits . Set the baskets and pulp , separately , on ice , and when ready to serve them fill

the hollows with the pulp , and sprinkle with sugar , salt ,

d . Or or lemon juice as desire , first treat with wine , as k flav above , or use the Tur ish ou rin g on the cut cubes : two

1 3 ° FRUIT RECIP ES

W A TER ME L ON S H ER B ET

Scrape all the red pulp of the melon , carefully saving the juice and having sufficient melon to give strength ' of

flavour . Allow to one gallon of liquid a pound of sugar n flav ou r and freeze . (This may be varied by addi g lemon ing and juice , or sherry . ) When half frozen add the whip ped whites of eggs (one for each quart of the mixture) and

finish the freezing.

C A NT E L OU P E I C E To one quart of melon pulp allow a pound of sugar and M a pint of water . ake a syrup of the sugar and water , c to simmering five minutes . When old add the melon pulp and freeze .

NUTMEG C O MP OTE Make a syrup as above and while it is still hot lay in it

‘ cubes or strips of melon , simmering five or six minutes ,

- then placing in serving dish . Cook the syrup down till thick , H add any flav ou rin g desired and pour over the melon . eap whipped cream on this and serve .

NUTMEG TA R T Nutmeg or canteloupe prepared as above may be made into a tempting tart by lining a baking- dish with a delicate ki paste , ba ng, and then filling it with above mixture . Make a meringue with th e whipped whites of two eggs and cup of sugar ; place over melon , brown quickly in oven , and serve hot or cold . MEL O N MO US S E

P . lace the pulp of nutmeg , canteloupe , or muskmelon in preserving kettle with half the quantity of sugar . Stew down till rather thick ; rub through sieve and replace on MELONS 1 3 1

H a stove . ave dissolved a h lf box of gelatine (for e ach pint l t of pu p) first softened in a li tle cold water , then more thoroughly dissolved by pouring on it a half-pint of boiling water and placing over steam . Add this to the cooked r melon , sti ring until it begins to cool and thicken , when place in wetted moulds ; set on ice till firm and serve with L cream . ( ess gelatine may be used if preferred . )

MEL O N MA R MA L A DE (Ol d -fa s h ion e d R e cipe )

Take large citron melons , quarter , and remove seeds .

‘ Weigh , and to every pound of melon allow a pound of loaf sugar (double refined) . To every three pounds of melons s ul tw o a . allow lemons and a te poonf of ground white ginger ,

Grate the melon on coarse grater , not too close to rind . Grate off also the yellow rind of the lemons and add with Mix the ginger to the sugar . all the ingredients in a pre it serving kettle . Set over a moderate fire , boil , skim , and o Pu t stir until it is a very thick , smo th jam . it warm into glasses ; lay a double round of tissue paper on the surface and seal the jars .

S MA L L MEL ON P IC KL ES (Old R ecipe )

Select muskmelons the siz e of black walnuts ; prick well and place for three days in brine , when freshen and pour over them hot spiced vinegar .

P I K Mr k ll R IP E MUS KMEL O N C L ES ( s . H as e ) With all melon pickles use about one teaspoon alum to harden four pounds of melon . Take hard muskmelons ffi r after they are su ciently ripe to develop flavou , and slice lengthwise ; scrape out seeds and lay melon in salt

i . i , over n ght Wash and w pe dry then put . in alum water dr k one hour ; wash and wipe y again , cut in slices , and pac P in glass jars . our over them a syrup of vinegar with 1 3 2 FRUIT RECI P ES

a b o ile r . H a spices , and set in of cold water eat gradu lly to boiling ; remove the bottles and cork as soon as cold .

The melons may be peele d or cut in rings if preferred .

S P IC ED MEL O N S

Quarter , peel , and cut into preferred size the pieces of melon . When weighed place in earthen jar ; pour over them cold vinegar and let stand over night . Then drain and for every seven pounds of melons make a syrup of e three pounds of sugar , a t aspoon each of allspice and k cloves , a little grated nutmeg , and a few bits of stic cin namon . Boil several minutes after commencing to sim the o m e r . Pour this over mel ns ; cover them and let

n . sta d over night Repeat this twice , the last time sim mering until melon is tender and translucent , though firm . P S lace in heated jars and pour the piced syrup over them , then seal . ME L O N MA N G O ES

Take small green muskmelons ; place in earthen or wooden receptacles and pour over them hot brine in which a little alum has been dissolved . Repeat twice and let stand In brine six days after scalding last time , when place in i kettle ; scald and let stand over n ght . Repeat this at in te rv als s of everal hours three times , letting stand last time

- o e twenty four hours . Remove n section of the melon and scoop out the inside . Wash and soak twelve hours in acidu M . ff lated water ake a stu ing of onions , cucumbers , to

. D matoes , beans , horseradish , etc rain the melons . P lace first in them a few cloves , cinnamon , ginger , white mustard seed and horseradish , then the filling . Replace and sew on the removed section ; place melons in large receptacle , cut side up , and pour over them spiced vinegar P ( lace weights on them) , letting stand six days . Drain and e k cover with unspic d vinegar for indefinite eeping .

1 3 4 FRUIT RECI P ES

till it is clear . Take out the melon ; place in jars ; boil down the syrup till thick ; pour over the rinds and seal . W A TER MEL O N H O NEY C k Use the red portion only . rush and strain it or coo down (with seeds) till very soft and then strain , cooking ' of re d again till thick . (Three quarts pulp will make but “ - about one fifth pint of honey . This requires time and C patience . ool the honey , then proceed as with grape juice i in bottling . It is best w thout sugar but a little sugar and “ lemon juice may be added , the honey alone not keeping so well . W A T ER MEL O N C A TS U P

Use the red and a little of the white portions , cooking down pulp and seeds till soft , when press through a colander and add spice , etc . , as for grape catsup .

C ITR O N O R P IE - MEL ON S A UC E

Cu t and pare the melon ; place in double boiler with no water or barely sufficient to wet the bottom layer of A pieces , and cook till soft . dd sugar and lemon juice fla or other v ourin g . This approaches apple sauce in flavour and consistency . To vary the flavour add , instead of lemon , or with it , barberry , cranberry , currant , or rasp r ber y syrup , when the melon begins to soften .

P IE - MEL O N T A R T M ake as for apple tarts , using the sauce made as above .

ME L O N S A S VEG ETA B L ES ripe melons of the canteloupe group may be cucumbers and egg - plant for fryn in egg and

in batter , or for scalloping , stuffi ng , and MELONS 1 3 5

ME L ON S C U R R I ED

Use P for curries , also , the half ripe me lons . eel and cut in small cubes or S lice s nearly an inch thick and fry P carefully in a little butter . repare the curry in another saucepan , frying an onion (sliced) in a tablespoon of butter until a golden brown . Ad d to this the fried melon ; sprinkle over it a teaspoonful of curry powde r (or quantity

r . A prefer ed) and let cook up , covered little water or milk may be added if necessary .

MEL O NS F O R S A L A DS

The fully ripe fruit is delicious for salads , cut in cubes i and served alone or w th other fruits , as tomatoes or peaches or bananas . Serve with mayonnaise plain or flavoured with some liqu eu r or French dressing to which has M been added a suspicion of araschino , or serve with whipped

r . cream . (See Salads in Introducto y Recipes )

C ITR O N MEL O N IN JEL L Y There is an unusual quantity of pectin in the citron melon which makes it of practical value In jelly making . Where fruit does not readily jell the addition of citron melon i (proport on varying with fruit used , half and half ; one w at third , ill make this end far more quickly i ta n ab le . G ENER A L DIR ECT IO N S The melons of the nutmeg group stand half way between E the vegetable marrow so valued by uropeans , (near which must be placed the squash and pumpkin) , and the luscious sweetened melons which are classed with fruits , so that they may be used far more generally than usually supposed in sweetened croquettes , as for apples , and with Of cheese or nuts or eggs , as with vegetables , all of these ,

. course , giving meat value CH APTE R XIII

A C L U S TE R O F B E R R I E S

H E little fruits classed scientifically or popularly as

berries form a most exquisite group , beautiful in variety of form and colouring , delightful in rich fragrance

ou u e t or b q and in delicacy of flavour , appealing to and stimulating the appetite through every ae sthetic sense ; cooling , in refreshing the whole system ; subtly satisfying i the intellectual and phys cal natures alike . The chief members of the group , whether wild or cultivated , are the strawberry , blackberry , and raspberry (with subdivisions) ; the huckle or blue or whortleberry ; the mulberry , cranberry , gooseberry , and currant ; the elderberry and barberry . TH E S TR A WB E RRY

T e F aria a r r N t . Rosacece 0 rd . h strawber y , or ag ) , while in its wild state not perhaps so lavishly generous with its riches as is the blackberry over both southern and north S ern latitudes, yet , peaking broadly , grows from the Arctic to the Antarctic z ones ; the mountains of Switz erland and even the H imalayas not too high or chill but that it may M E be found nestling close to other arth , giving out beauty and charm in unexpected spots . It was , undoubt e dl —so y , this shy , rich sweetness free from tearing thorns which stamped from the first with indelible favouritism the wild crimson berry , and its being found so amenable to t cultiva ion , (therefore making its season long , from the width of belt from which it may be shipped ,) gave it con tin ue d first rank in favour

1 3 8 FRUIT RECI P ES

th e he blood , seem to be congealed sunshine with all t rapeutic value of the sun concentrated in them . It seems a pity that they are comparatively rare and not usually to be bought in open market , although if they were to be had at every corner grocery most of their healing agency would have O departed . nly by gathering them in their native haunts may all this value be given and received .

TH E B LAC KB E R R Y

r If the strawberry , with its combined ta tness , sweetness , brilliance ye t shyness of beauty may be regarded as a feminine type the blackberry may as truly be said to possess ' masculine characteristics . The blackberry vine s vigour ,

- O- its happy g lucky , sturdy habit of growth , its wandering

i e —-b e prodigality , its riotous , rollicking ins stenc of right to , and thorny defence against aggression are marked traits ”

Of . (modified , of course , by training) the eternal boy The blackberry and strawberry might well be considered brother and sister since both belong to the Rose Family . ” The blackberry (Ru bu s) shows in its generic and nick names S imilar Roman and Anglo- Saxon associations Ru bu s L ru ber being connected with the atin (red) , and black berry derived from the Anglo- Saxon blackbe rige and Old “ E B lackber e nglish y . Bramble , applied to both black

- and raspberries , takes its meaning from the Anglo Saxon brembel brembe r , or , that which tears or lacerates . The blackberry is rather unusual among fruits as being i a astr ngent inste d of laxative ; fruit , young leaves , and roots all partaking of this quality . It is said to contain iron and from its general tonic composition eff ectually tones up the system . The Greeks made from the pressed young shoots of the plant a thick syrup to be given intern ally for throat , mouth , and eye troubles , but more commonly

’ b e e n u se d the berries and roots have for various specifics , A CLUSTER OF B ERRIES 1 3 9

particularly the roots for troubles related to dysentery . The sugar of the berries makes them more palatable and nourishing and the mild acids are cooling to the blood . Blackberry cordial is an excellent remedy for diarrhoea and blackberry wine is tonic in eff ect while the jams and syrups made from the berry are very pleasing forms of throat remedies . The decoction from the roots is pre pared by boiling down an ounce of the smaller roots , or of the bark of the larger , in a pint and a half of water , down to a pint ; of which from one to two flu id - ounces may be given to an adult three or four times , or more frequently " - : U . . during the twenty four hours . (Wood Bache S

Dispensatory . )

D - The ewberry is but a variety , with sub varieties , of blackberry , the coating of which is considered to resemble dew . TH E RA S P B E RR Y

The Raspberry is very nearly related to the blackberry , Ru bu s a similar variety of the genus , having , again , sub varieties in black and red raspberries and the wild cloud berry and thimbleberry (the latter black in colour . ) The fragrance and flavour of the red raspberry are rarely

aromatic and delicate , but its seeds and coat are harsher than those of the blackberry . From this inherent rough ” ness came its name : from the English rasp . It is placed with the strawberry as to value in liver and gouty troubles . Syrup of Raspberries in various forms is considered very refreshing and purifying and , the seeds being removed in these preparations , the fruit is perhaps more wholesome than in other forms as well as being quite as attractive .

L OGAN B E R R Y The Loganberry is a cross between the black and rasp

i C . b e rry , one O the famous alifornia hybrids (Seed of 1 40 FRUIT RECIP ES the Au ghin b au gh blackberry and pollen of Antwerp As n Raspberry . ) yet it has not bee found to ship well C and in the East does not flourish as in alifornia , where the fre sh berries are much liked b ut are perhaps improved with cookery . — TH E H U C K LE B E R RY C R A N B E R R Y G ROU P

The huckleberry or whortleberry , the blueberry , bil berry , or blaeberry , and cranberry are related , comprising ff E ricaceae H in reality di erent groups of the , or eath family , V iff though there is a ast d erence between the mild , dark

- hued , blue coated berries and the crimson , acid variety of whortleberry and cranberry . The latest classification s : h a of these (F . V . Colville) is as follow uckleberry : G y lu ssacia ; blueberry : Vaccinium ; cranberry : Oxycoccus ; iu farkleberry : Batodendron ; deerberry : P olycod m . The “ Ne w whortleberries and huckle or blueberries (—beyond England commonly called huckleberries Gray) make excellent jellies and jams , may be dried and preserved E s irittiou s otherwise , and in some parts of urope a p

A . liquor is manufactured from them . goodly per cent of citric acid is contained in some varieties of whortleberries . an d The cranberry , with its decided acids , has marked valuable characteristics . It contains a large per cent . of citric acid and iron as well ; is therefore strongly ton ic and purifying and particularly grateful on long voyages or in the winter season when other berries are difficult or impossible to procure in fresh condition . From the ’ A c rctic s southern limits ranberries reach southward , instinctively being used in these col der regions as an anti

- scorbutic . In Great Britain they form part of S hip stores for the same purpose . They are also excellent used ex te rn all m y , as poultices , in reducing infla mation . In Siberia and Russia wine is made from them and in Scandinavian

1 4 2 FRUIT RECIP ES

TH E E LDE R B E RR Y The elderberry is one of the richest of the whole collection

I of berries n legendary lore , in mystical and practical charm , each part , from roots to flowers , giving out some thing of value as food or medicine , being possessed of indisputable medical properties , of remarkable qualities — flav ou rin in for g or colouring , and as a food jelly , jams , etc . , or wine , having unique elements of excellence . S ambu cu s N O The elder , or , belongs to the atural rder

Ca ri oliacece H F p f , or oneysuckle amily , and its name , S ambu cu s , seems a fit one throughout the centuries , since it was taken from the old Greek name for one of the ancient musical instruments and it has been much used in Scot land and England for the manufacture of certain music giving instruments , while boys all over the world know

- its inestimable value for whistles , and for pop guns , or i p pes . Tradition says that it was once a tree but cursed and dwarfed b y the hanging of Judas upon it . Other tradition goes further in claiming it as that of C th e which the ross was made , and even mistletoe cannot lay greater claim to these storied reasons for being stunted . S ambu cu s e bu lu s D E The , or warf lderberry , rather rare n A in the British Isles and almost unk own in merica , possesses strong characteristics which make it desirable i A to avoid save under med cal direction . In merica the red- berried elder (S ambu cu s pu be n s ) grows only in rocky woods of the more northern portions , but the black

Can ade n si 5 . s elderberry commonly known ( ) , with its striking , graceful clusters of flowers or fruit , is quite cos m o olitan - i p (though , like the red berr ed elder , masquerading i under var ous nicknames , as the black varieties being virtually the same . H owever unbelievable may be the many traditions and A CLUSTER OF B ERRI ES 1 43

charms connected with or said to be worked by the elder , one may approach understanding of the origin of these beliefs when even in these “ enlightened ” days ' it is claimed in Scotland and England that the leaves give out so strong and narcotic an odour or power that it is unsafe to sleep in S A their hade , and when , in merica , the apparently innocent young leaf- buds are declared too much of a risk to put into the mouth . P ossessed of such element s of possible dan

ger , it might readily have once been considered its powers of evil were available for charms . The United States Dispensatory remarks (in list of Un o flicial Remedies) : “ The juice of the berries has been used as an alterative

in rheumatism , also as a laxative . The inner bark is in large

i . doses emet c It has been employed in dropsy , epilepsy ,

and various chronic diseases . The leaves are not without activity and the young leaf- buds are said to be a violent i Th e and even unsafe purgat ve . juice , also , of the root

has been used in dropsy . There is so great an abundance of citric acid in the scarlet- fruited elder (S ambu cu s race

mos a ru bra E ) , native of the south of urope and Siberia , Thib ie r V that M. Thibierge of ersailles proposed its use

as a source of the commercial supply . Wine is made from s both the flower and berries (of the common black elder) ,

rare l d e licate bou ue t the former y . , declared similar in q and

flavour to Frontignac . The juice of the berry is used to

colour and adulterate other wines , and the berries supposed

to improve ale , currant wine and jellies by their addi F t tion . ormerly hey were made up into vinegars and sauces for meats ; the flowers into ointment and elder flower water (the latter still used in perfumes and medicinal decoctions) ; the tiniest blooms stripped and separated i ff i to mix in with and l ghten pancakes or mu ns , and in F rance , as packing or filling for certain delicate apples , they still flavour richly and spicily and beautify a 1 44 FRUIT RECI P ES

- - Th e matter Oi fact present . clustered , unopened buds of e the flowers , and sometim s the unripe berries , were in Olden days pickled to serve in the fashion of capers an d a “ syrup or rob of the berries was con sidered excellent a i r as a lax tive , diuretic and cough med cine for child en .

Cooked , the young shoots seem to have none of the purga tive qualities of the immatu re leaf- buds and the fruit un cooked is eaten in quantity with relish by Indians of west ern America although to white s its peculiar flavour makes it seem lacking until cooke d with some form of spice or i the ac d of other fruit ,

C U RR A NTS AN D G OOS E B E RRIE S

r ou The dried cu rants of commerce , so fav rite an in re dien t i s o are g in cakes , pudd ng , and ther dishes , not re lated to the garden curran t (although once in a while the m latter is also dried for do estic purposes) , being in reality a kin d of raisin or grape (F ossulae min ores) raised and dried L o a in the evant and exp rted from there in l rge quantities , as Corinthian raisins or Zante currants (see Currants C r under Grapes) . ur ants proper belong to the genus Ribes Gross u lariacew , of the , these being the spine - e t th e less , twin r la ive of spiny gooseberry . Ribes is sup s b e A m po ed to an rabic name and , as a atter of fact , the cur w w in A E A rant gro s ild sia , urope , and parts of merica . A The name currant is , in ustralia , applied to other (native) berries of that continent as well as to the culti r m E vated , garden cu rants introduced fro ngland . ell There are red , white , black , and y ow garden currants , u s vario sly valued , the red con idered best f or most wines , i shrubs or v negars , and tart jellies ; the white for simple rt desse fruit , uncooked , and the black for medicinal de c u co tions , altho gh the black currant is also much used in

e . pres rves , vinegars , etc , and in France a certain liqueur,

1 46 FRUIT RECIP ES

TH E B A RB E R R Y

berid d . B er aceae Nat . Or The beautiful Barberry ( ) , with its brilliant red clusters of minute , juicy ovals of pulp , is known all over the world in temperate and colder climates except in Australia—either as the common Bar

or A sh - l berry the leaved Berry , the atter , however , being B erb . eri insipid or unpleasant in flavour The former , s vu l aris g , is not only extremely ornamental but its tartness is of decided value and so recognised , scientifically , in m France , where alic acid is manufactured from the berries.

A . certain , smaller per cent of citric acid is associated with the malic acid but the latter is its chief source of acidity and value . These loose bunches of little oval berries are generally too acid and astringent to be pleasing as food in their d natural condition of ripeness (a mitting exceptions) , but cooked , a syrup , preserves , jelly , and jam of fine flavour and colour are made from them , and in tarts they rival A the cranberry . lso , some varieties are susceptible of being dried in the sun and kept indefinitely for future use . The bark and the root are used in tropical countries for tanning and dyeing yellow . Their juice is refrigerant and anti- scorbutic and they are used in fevers for their cooling effect and in diarrhoeas a preparation of them is fre quently prescribed by some physicians because of th e malic ff acid which so e ectively kills germs of this type . In larger doses they are cathartic ; in small ones tonic and laxative .

TH E MAY AP P LE

Another member of the B erberidac ew is the American Ma A P odo h llu m e ltatu m y pple ( p y p ) , sometimes called mandrake but not related to the mandrake proper (Mc u dra ara o icin aru m Na t . Ord . S olan ac ece g fl , , or the Night A CL USTER OF B ERRI ES 1 47

“

shade Family) or the mandrake of the ancients , and the Ma A y pple is the only species of the genus . It is also poisonous by report , so far as the plant itself is concerned , but the root is used medicinally , though too violent in nature

r to be safe except under medical direction . The f u it is

“ “ n ot poisonous , however , and may be eaten freely with impunity (Wood and Bache) . It deserves to be ex e rim e n te d p with further , its flavour being delicious for marmalades ,

TH E CH E C KE RB E R R Y

: C P The names heckerberry , Boxberry , artridge Berry , i or Wintergreen , are famil arly applied to two diff erent Gau ltheria H berries , one the , of the eath Family , the other Mitchella re e n s C M the p , or Winter lover , of the adder

Family . It is the former from which is distilled the oil of Wintergreen and whose berries are so enticingly gay and floWe rs M spicy . The of the itchella are pretty and scented but the berries , though edible and keeping all through the winter , become dry and tasteless . They possess medicinal virtues in being tonic and soothing and have been used in dropsy and other troubles .

TH E WI N TE R C H E RRY

C P h s alis The Winter herry , or y , although of the Night shade Family (S olan acece ) is one of most picturesque of real food berries , a sweet , succulent morsel of yellow , green , s purple , or red , hiding away in a dainty green or yellow ne t , unsuspected by those unfamiliar with it . This Ground or

C IS a Winter herry a friendly little thing , m king open over ru n n in wild tures to cultivation , g by inherited habit but often entering gardens of its own accord and remaining , when

e n cou ra e d as . g , . a permanent resident There are numerous “ Alkeken i ' species , among them the g , or Strawberry To ” “ ” “ e L A P G mat , or ove pple , and the eruvian ooseberry , 1 48 FRUIT RECI P ES

alis besce ns k w w or P hys pu , and they are no n , ild or culti A i y ated , all over the world , from the tropics of mer ca and

Asia northward , sometimes found in Scotland and other i C damp , cold latitudes . The W nter herry is excellent “ ” either in natural condition or put up , and may be cooked by any method of which the general berry group —w is susceptible ith most satisfactory results to the palate . " C r Also , this little Winter he ry is good for the health , u being as cooling as its name . It acts wholesomely pon an d di in the kidneys has been valued me c ally in other ways, as for gout and fevers.

H A CKB E R R Y A N D H AWS

ltis N Ce Nat . ord . U mace The ettle Tree , the , of the l a , (related to the elms) should be mentioned in the group of r A berries as its f uit , known in merica as the H ackberry and Sugarberry , is edible and of most pleasing sweetness and aromatic flavour . It is at its best , like the persimmon , after frost. — The H awthorn or Crataegu s (of the Malacew) known in varying forms over the world : as the White Thorn or “ ” E Ma k Y nglis—h y , the Blac thorn , the ellow or Summer H aw ; wi u Thorn t—he Scarlet th yellow , orange , p rple , or red fruit is more useful than is general ly known . The ui fl r fr t varies in size and avou , but there are a nu mber of the haws which make a pleasin g breakfast or desse rt ui i fr t , be ng used this way in the south of Europe an d the L al in uf u evant , and so the man act re of hawthorn liquor , an t as a r in oxicant , and the b sis of cooke y concoctions, as t i i ib arts , prov ng their delic ous poss ilities . (The Vibu rn um runi olium th e H di p i , of oneysuckle Family , related stantly to the elderberry , is sometimes called the black h aw or s - loe or stag bush , though the two latter terms belong more

1 50 FRUIT RECI PES state is regularly shipped to the London marke t from

- s English country towns . This mature stage or over ripenes is also necessary for the best flavour of the true Service

Tree fruit (known as Service or June Berries in Savoy) . A drink similar to cider is made from these berries and when the latter are dried and powdered they are valued as an M Ash astringent , used in curing diarrhoea . The ountain contains a large quantity of malic acid , of which fact chem ists often take advantage in the manufacture of the com m i e rc al . form The berries are available for food , as are those of the rowan , which are used in tarts , (and every other

E . dish adapted to acid berries) , in Scotland and in urope The Buff alo Berry (S heperdia a rge n ta) is a fruit par ti la l m cu r . y known in the West , used com only as food The names indicate something of its wild associations , and originated in the custom of serving it as a sauce with buffalo meat . Like the barberry it is tart and is used in much the same manner .

RECIP E S

S TR A W B R R I S S R D W H OL O E E E VE E , UN C OKE D n These berries may be served u hulled , to be dipped in sugar and eaten with the fingers . Place in the heart of e h ad lettuce or other bed of green , if to be served from a large receptacle , or on lettuce or other large single leaves if from individual dishes . If served hulled , strawberries should have sugar placed on them at least an hour before serving . The addition of a cup of orange or pineapple u j ice will add to the flavour .

S TRAW B ERRY S H OR TC A KE The simpler the form of the cake the more delicious will be the result , although many people prefer a sponge A CLUSTER OF B ERRI ES

or cup cake with the berries . For a plain shortcake make u r a sweet bisc it dough (see Introducto y Recipes) , rolling

out an inch thick , cutting in diamonds or squares or rounds,

and baking like biscuits . These may be readily broken b e rrie s swe e te n e d open (never cut) and the mashed , (to gether with some whole ones) mixed and heaped upon them

r for individual serving . O the dough mav be rolled thin n ner , spread with butter , folding over o ce and baking in i either one sheet or individual form , the butter fac litating

- h e . Or t opening of the cake single , inch thick sheets may i be made and heaped in layers , us ng the crushed berries for of fi . A lling , the whole ones for the top nother form short

- cake is to add to the biscuit dough two well beaten eggs . Whipped cream may be heaped over the Whole berries

used on the top of any form of the cake .

S T R A W B ER R Y B A TTER C UP S

Stir one pint of sugar through a quart of slightly mashed M berries . ake a batter with one and a half cups of flour in which has been sifted a half- teaspoon of salt and one heap

- ix ing teaspoon of baking powder . M with this a table

. spoon oi butter , two beaten eggs, and one cup of milk

Place a layer of the batter in buttered cups or moulds , then

- a layer of the berries , etc . , until two thirds full . Steam

or bake for forty minutes . Serve with whipped cream or strawberry sauce

S TR A W B ER R Y S A UC E

a h alf - 0 Cream together one cup of sugar and cup of but ‘

ter ; add the whipped white of an egg , then one cup of P mashed or chopped berries . lace on ice several hours

before serving . 1 5 2 FRU IT RECI P ES

S TR A W B ER R Y DUMP L I N G S Line muffin rings with thin -rolled sweet biscuit dough and bake quickly . When browned fill the shells with ripe Or strawberries , sprinkle sugar on top , and serve . make “ " A e like conventional dumplings . (See The ppl )

S TR A W B E R R Y TA R T Line sides of large or small pans or baking dishes with F pastry and bake a light brown . ill then with strawberry jam or fresh berries and serve (dished) with a meringue or r E whipped cream . O finish with lattice strips as for nglish

Apple Tart and brown .

S TR A W B ER R Y F L OA T H eat a quart of milk with one cup of sugar and a pinch of salt . When at boiling point add one tablespoon of cornstarch which has been dissolved in a little of the milk C (cold) . ook for three minutes , when add the beaten yolks of three eggs ; whip together two minutes and remove M v . from sto e , letting cool eantime have ready a pint of

- sweet berries mashed with one half cup of sugar . Le t

d . stan an hour then strain Whip the whites of the eggs , and two tablespoons powdered sugar , then the juice from the berries ; place on top of the custard when the latter is ice cold and serve quickly .

S TRA W B ER R Y P YR A MID

H ave cooked one pint of flaky rice . Place a layer of it

- on the bottom of glass serving dish , spreading with a table A spoon of butter . lternate this with layers of whole straw a berries (sugared) until pyramid is formed . Serve with cream . E S C A L L O P E D S TR A W B E R R IE S

Alternate layers of strawberries and whipped cream in

- C glass serving dish . hill on ice and serve .

I 54 FRUIT RECI P ES

Do together over a S low fire with no water . not mash in stirring and when skimmin g is required set on back of stove that scum may rise before trying to remove it . When . sugar is dissolved boil fast for thirty minutes ; remove fruit ; place in jars ; boil syrup five minutes longer , then pour over the berries and seal .

T O S EA L S TR A W B ER R I ES W ITH O UT C OOKING (Old - F a s h ion e d R e c ipe )

i n - Take firm berries and we gh , allowi g one quarter pound ‘ i P and of sugar for each pound of fru t . lace sugar berries w in layers in earthen are dishes and let stand in , cool spot

D o ff and over night . rain juice without breaking berries i i D we gh ju ce . educt this weight from the weight of the fruit . Weigh out as much sugar as the fruit weighs with out the juice (deducting the quarter- pound of sugar already

P - used) . lace berries and sugar in layers in large necked j ars or bottles which must be corked and wired very tight . Then place them in outer vessel of cold water and let latter i come to a boil . When th s exact point is reached remove an - d seal the corked bottle air tight . These bottles should

' six i be looked at for weeks daily—, turn ng them to keep fruit from moulding , but carefully not to break fruit .

S P IC ED S TR A W B ER R IE S Strawberries may be spiced after making into j ams as below . S TR A W B ER R Y j A MS

Boil mashed berries in their own juice till well reduced ,

- when add heated sugar , three fourths to each pint of fruit or pound for pound , cooking down S lowly till of desired i . th ckness Strawberry jam is usually too sweet . To f o fset this do not be afraid to add lemon juice , pie plant , or A CLUSTER OF B ERRIES

other tart fruit . Also a very delicious variety may be had by using with the strawberries equal quantity of goose r n be ry , fig , date , pi eapple , cherry , currant , red raspberry , or orange or lemon marmalade .

S TR A W B ER R Y JEL L Y

Strawberry jelly may be made with gelatine , of the i strawberry juice alone , if tart ; or , if sweet and full ripe , w th H red currant juice or lemon juice added . eat berries in r double boiler till juice is f ee , mashing them well . For i u each p nt of resulting , strained j ice , allow the juice of a

- u u small lemon or one half cup red c rrant j ice , and for each i pint of mixed ju ce , one pound of sugar .

TRA W B R R S H R B 1 S E Y U N o .

Dissolve five ounces tartaric acid in two quarts of water and pour it over twelve pounds hulled berries (in earthen

- ware) , letting stand forty eight hours , with plate to keep a them down . Strain through fl nnel bag , then add to juice one and one- half pounds granulated sugar for each pint in of juice . Stir till dissolved ; bottle ; cork and keep cool

Ad - Do . d place . ( not seal corks ) two and one half tea of spoons this to each glass of cold water when serving.

W B R R S H R a S TR A E Y UB N o .

M r ake as above up to bottling point , when pou it over ten pounds more of berries ; let stand twenty - four hours ; i a i . strain and add sugar , pound for each p nt Bo l then

five minutes , then simmer five more , and bottle .

S TRA W B ER R Y W I NE

Scal d berries ; press and strain juice ; allow to each quart r two pounds sugar and one quart soft water . Fe ment as 1 56 FRUIT RECI P ES for currant wine and leave cask undisturbed for six months before using . S TR A W B ER R Y B R A N DY To eight quarts mashed berries add four pounds loaf

- . P sugar and one gallon brandy our into a four gallon jug , tying cheesecloth over the mouth , and let stand three weeks before corking . Bottle after six months .

S TR A W B ER R Y V I NEG A R

To one gallon of strawberries take four pounds sugar. Mash together ; add two gallons soft water and place in warm spot to ferment .

TO DR Y S TR A W B E R R I E S

Spread the berries on plates , sprinkling sugar over them e t and placing in the sun , prot cting wi h netting as for apples . For S Ou fflé G F Strawberry , elatine , ritters , etc . , see

Introductory Recipes and other fruits .

B L A C KB R M o I R A N . E Y J _

Take equal weight of blackberries and currants , adding pound for pound of sugar (and fruit) ; no water ; cooking S lowly together till sugar is dissolved , when boil fast for thirty minutes .

B L A C K B R R A M o 2 E Y J N .

If blackberries alone are used take but three - fourths pound of sugar to each pound of fruit and proceed as above .

B L A C K B ER R Y JEL L Y

Extract juice as from strawberries ; allow one pint heated sugar to each pint of juice . May take twenty minutes to jell .

1 58 F RUIT RECIP ES

w . and let stand till next day , stirring once in a hile

Then press out , strain and measure juice , allowing a half

' poun d of sugar to each quart of the liquid (first placing sugar in a cask and straining juice into it) . Stir till dis k solved , then let cas remain unstopped till fermentation is over . At this point stir in the beaten whites of four eggs

- or a half ounce of gum arabic dissolved in a little water .

e . Leave open till next day , wh n it may be bunged Will be ready to bottle in two months .

R W I o 2 B L A CKB ER Y NE N . wi Scald berries ; press and strain juice , allo ng for each quart of juice two quarts of soft water and three pounds of white cofle e su gar . Keep bung open till fermentation c e ceases , when stop , and place barrel in cool pla e for ight months , then bottle .

R C O R DIA L o B L AC KB E RY N . 1

'

Crush and strain berries , allowing for each quart one half pound loaf sugar, a teaspoon each of cloves and cin namon (powdered) and a grated nutmeg . Boil all together

fifteen minutes ; cool , and for each quart of syrup add one D : half pint brandy . Bottle . ose From one teaspoon to wineglassful . KB R R O R DIA a B L A C E Y C L N o . To three pounds uncooked berries allow one pound white

u . n s gar and let stand twelve hours The press and strain , adding one-third rum or brandy and allowing one teaspoon allspice (powdered) to each quart of cordial . It must be bottled some time before it is fit for use .

B L A C KB ER R Y B R A NDY

Mix ui equal parts of fruit j ce and brandy , for each gallon i allow ng one pound loaf sugar. A CLUSTER OF B ERRI ES 1 59

B L A C KB ER R Y S L UMP OR S TEA MED P UDDIN G

- I . Rub together two cups flour , one half cup sugar , two

‘ thirds cup milk , one egg , a tablespoon of butter , and two cups of berries . Sift through flour two teaspoons baking i . i t powder and pinch of salt St r in berries last th ng , hen place in buttered mould or bucket ; cover well and steam wi two hours . Serve hot th milk or sweet sauce .

- 2 . F ill tight covered vessel half full of hot , stewed ber ries ; cover with biscuit dough ; cover tight and bake , or steam in boiling water .

B L A C KB ER R Y P IE Line sides only of pan or dish and make like huckle berry pie . H uckleberries or pieplant may be used in equal er proportion with the blackb ries .

B ER R Y MU F F I N S

Into a pint of flour in which have . been sifted two tea

- - - spoons baking powder and half teaspoon salt , rub one half cup butter or shortening, then add one cup milk , one table

Spoon su gar and a beaten egg . When mixed well add one cu p berries and bake in muffin tins twenty minutes in rather brisk oven .

B L A C KB ER R Y F A R INA

Wash , stew and mash a quart of berries (with two table spoons water) then add one teacup farina , a pinch of salt , and cook fifty minutes in double boiler; Place in wet moulds to harden . For breakfast slice and serve with cream . B L A C KB ER R Y C H A R L OTTE R U S S E di P lace stale sponge cake around edges of serving sh, H filling centre with berries . eap whipped cream over the top. I 60 FRUIT RECI P ES

TO DR Y B L A C KB E R R IES

Dry in thin layers in sun (fruit not over ripe) , proceed ing as for strawberries .

G ENER A L DIR EC TI O N S For other methods of preparation see Introductory

Recipes or adapt from other fruits .

R AS P B ER R Y S O U P

See Introductory Recipes (Fruit Soups) .

R OS E S A N DW IC H E S

- Use thin sliced bread . Spread with a very little butter

(or none) adding a thin layer of cream cheese , then stiff rasp r Cu t berry ja n . the bread from each corner (diagonally) across , twice , forming triangles , or with cutters, in rounds .

A P R R A M Ol n lis h R c i R S B E Y J ( d E g e pe ) N o . 1

To every pound of raspberries allow a pound of sugar, and to whatever proportion of raspberries used allow one fourth weight of currants . Wash and strain currants and s cook juice with the sugar about twenty minute , then —add r e the raspberries , whole , simme ing together twenty fiv minutes . Bottle and seal at once .

R A S P B R R A M N o . 2 A N D N o E Y J . 3 M No . I o . 2 ake as for Blackberry Jam and N , or add equal quantity of gooseberries or strawberries .

R A B R S P E R Y JA M N o . 4

Weigh berries and simmer without water till redu ced

- one third , when add gradually as many pounds of heated sugar as there were berries (original weight) . As soon as

1 62 FRUIT RECI P ES

. and strain , and to each pint of juice add one pound sugar

i . . Boil twenty m nutes , skimming well Bottle when cold

RA S P B ER R Y VI NEGA R OR S H R UB (W ith ou t S u gar)

Pour a quart of wine vinegar over three quarts of ber 1 P ries and let stand two days . ress out juice ; pour over L fresh berries and repeat twice . ast time bottle (without sugar) . R A S P B ER R Y R OYA L

P Use four quarts of best berries . our over them one quart cider vinegar and add one pound sugar , mashing all Le t a off to a paste . st nd in sun four hours , when strain juice and add one pint brandy . Bottle , seal , and place in cellar .

R A S P B ER R Y VI NEG A R (F or C ookin g or Tab le U s e )

‘ Mix twelve pounds sugar with three gallons water and Le t i six quarts raspberry juice . fru t pulp stand in an other gallon oi water with a pound of sugar and three n W tablespoo s yeast till well worked up once , hen strain w h and place it the rest of the liquor in a cask .

R A S P B ER R Y C OR DIA L

Fill stone jar with ripe berries ; cover close and let stand il where it will heat gently t l fruit breaks of itself . Squeeze juice through linen bag and to each quart allow one pound e of loaf sugar . L t all come to a boil and skim well till scum ceases to rise , when remove from stove and put again through linen bag , pouring into a crock with brandy in equal proportion to juice . Stir , and when cold place in demijohn and cork for two weeks , when , if not clear, filter , then bottle and seal . A CLUSTE R OF B ERRI ES 1 63

R A S P B E R R Y W I NE

Mix together eight pounds sugar, eight quarts soft water, and one gallon juice of raspberries . Ferment as for Blackberry Wine . For a sweeter wine allow two quarts of water to each quart of juice and three pounds sugar . The berries for this must be simmered till soft in their own juice , strained , and the pulp washed out with a little additional water to be added , strained .

R A S P B ER R Y C A T S U P

Use C a quart of vinegar to a gallon of berries . ook

Ad - longer than for blackberry catsup . d one half pound L e sugar for each qu art of juice . emon juic may be added if liked . Otherwise proceed as with blackberries .

OL D-FA S H IONED W H OR TL EB ER R Y P UDDIN G

Rub a pint of flour in with a quart of whortleberries and a little salt , wetting the whole with a very little water

- about a half cup . Tie snug in a pudding cloth with no room for swelling and boil two hours . Serve with a sweet or wine sauce .

R 1 H UC KL EB E R Y C A KE N o .

Cream one cup of sugar with a half- cup of butter ; add a one cup of milk , two of flour, and two te spoons baking P a powder . lace a pint of huckleberries in dish and rub sugar through them well , then stir into the cake and bake in shallow pans .

H C KL B R R C A K N o . 2 U E E Y E , Sift through a quart of flour a scant teaspoon of salt and two (heaping) of baking powder . Rub into this a table f spoon o shortening , two eggs , a cup of milk, and quart of

k . berries well sugared , and bake quic ly in a shallow pan

the . Serve with butter or cream , cutting cake open 1 64 FRUIT RECI P ES

B L UEB ER R Y B R EA D OR MU F FIN S

r M ffi s m ffi n Make as above or for Blackbe ry u n , in u n ri gs or one shallow sheet .

H UC KL EB ER R Y S L UMP

See Blackberry Slump .

H UC KL EB ER R Y MU S H

r Make as for Blackberry Fa ina. Serve hot or cold (slice d) .

W H ORTL EB ER R Y OR H UCKL EB ERRY P IE

Line the sides of b aking dish or pan with paste and fill centre with the berries , sprinkling with sugar , adding a w lump of butter and a tablespoon each of flour and ater . or e ov r Flavour with lemon cranberry juic . C e with crust ke or lattice strips and ba .

H UC KL EB E R RY JEL L Y wi Heat berries not yet fully ripe very slowly thout water . n e Add pound for pi t of sugar and juic . The perfectly e e r e r ard gre n b r ies or the b r ies mature yet h , an d re d in c - of e c olour , may be used alone , or one third a h (green an d - er to e r red) and one third ripe b ries giv a icher , deeper m a n ma s ou . h o col r T is last c bin tio ke a rich , tart jelly .

H UC KL EB ER R Y JA M

Cook berries in their own juice an d pro ceed as for Res")

r am No . A e ber y J 4 . littl lemon or other tart fruit juice ma b e e nl th e u e r s y us d if o y mat r be rie can b e secured. Re n k are d a d . Or blac mixed best , with the huckle berries, u se n equal quantity of curra ts or gooseberries.

1 66 FRUIT RECIPES

C R A N B ER R Y S YR UP

Make a syrup of a pint each of sugar and water and drop into it the whole , uncooked berries , simmering until clear and tender . C RA N B ER R Y JEL L Y

Proceed as for Cranberry Sauce till berries are tender, when add a pound of sugar for each pint of juice and sim mer three minutes before removing from fire . Strain v through coarse sieve and place in wet moulds . Ser e cold .

C R A N B ER R Y C O MP OTE Make a heavy syrup as for Cranberry Syrup and place in this (While boiling) a quart of cranberries which have been C pricked with a coarse needle (twice) . ook the berries and syrup together till syrup is very thick, when remove and serve cold .

C R A N B ER R Y S H OR TC A KE

M r ake as for Strawbe ry Shortcake , using recipe for Sauce given above , and serving with a meringue .

C R A NB ER R Y S P O N G E

se See Introductory Recipes for Sponge . U with this S the yrup . C R A N B ER R Y S N OW

M for A i ake as pple Snow , beating n the berries sub stituted in the form of strained sauce . Serve with a " simple float .

C R A NB ER R Y TA R T M G ake as for ooseberry Tart , which will give variations . A lso add a cup of raisins sometimes for a change . A CLUSTER OF B ERRIES 1 67

S TEA ME D C R A NB ER R Y P UDDIN G Make a simple Batter Pudding (see Introductory

Recipes) adding a cup or more of chopped , uncooked cran berries , and flour to make rather stiff . Steam for two hours an d serve with cranberry sauce .

C R A NB ER R Y C A K E (F roz e n )

M k . Add . a e as for Sauce , straining three cups of this to a syrup made of a pint each of sugar and water. Freeze l partial y , then mix in one pint of cream (whipped or plain) and complete the freezing. Frozen custard or ice may also be made with the cranberry .

C R A NB ER R Y B OMB E C Cook berries as for the ompote , adding a tablespoon of dissolved gelatine , then cool and add a pint of whipped white of egg or omit gelatine and add a pint of whipped z cream . Sweeten more heavily and free e in a bombe or

M . Or melon mould as for elon Roll , freeze the berries

(cooled) partially , then line the mould with the mixture e and fill th centre with the whipped egg or cream .

TO KEEP C R A N B ER R I ES (Un co oke d)

Cranberries may be dried , or may be bottled , filling up n c with cold water , the corked and pla ed in cool dry o firkin w place . Sometimes a go d will ans er the same purpose when examined frequently .

G EN ER A L DIR EC TION S F OR C R A NB ER R IES

Cranberries make an exce llent Roly Poly or may b e spiced or use d as jam adjunct or the syrup in drinks (shrubs and cordials) are more susceptible of variation than al generally su pposed and , being more wholesome than most any other tart sauce , should be more widely used . 1 68 FRUIT RECI PES

G ENER A L DIR EC TIO N S FOR MUL B ER RIES

Mulberrie s may be used in all ways Suitable for black or raspberries but are superio r to them or almost any e -mak avi he other fruit in the matter of j lly ing , h ng t rich a e e od colour and tartness of currant with littl mor b y , but very tender. For shrub and rob , also , the mul berry has few rivals .

L B R R L L MU E Y JE Y N o . 3

or mo t r l n mson e rm and F a s b i lia t , cri j lly , ran , use n th e a red mmatu r o e ear o ly h rd , , i re be ries (th s n ly full a of e On e sized) . To each three qu rts b rries add quart Le . t cold water simmer slowly together fifty minutes , when add a second quart of cold Water and simmer again as r es The for an hour , m hing well the ber i . resultin g juice s h - H v hould be thick and ric looking. a e sugar ready , heat ed ln an a ea n of c , another p , and llow a pint for ch pi t jui e . k W n r d sso S im ell . Whe the suga has quite i lved an d boiled re e m nu s te t ma en e th i te s it, for it y th be r ady to pOu r into

as s. m nu s a e S c gl se Five i te is usu lly quit uffi ient . Place in the sun till firm and cool .

LB R MU E R Y JE L L Y No . a

For a arke sweet e u se ua d r , , j lly , eq l parts of the hard

' re d or e en e r es e et re d an ‘ ( v the b r i scarc ly y ) , d fully ripe b erri s Use a e . but pint of water with three Quarts of al l u ce can e x rac berries , simmering till j i be t ted by mashing

k . c in the ettle Strain well and pro eed as above .

MU LB ERRY MA R MA L A DE AN D JAM

These ma b e ma f om th e e ri s u sed f y de r b r e or j elly , in w ase the ms m s b e c d efore cookin hich c ste u t lippe b g, but t are richer to b e ma w fre s un c hey de ith h , ooked be rries. For M armalade mash the pulp and pu t throu gh coarse

1 7 0 FRUIT RECI PES

EL DERB ER R Y W INE N o . 1

Strain the juice of crushed berries , adding for six quarts

- se of juice a half gallon of water . U three pounds i Le t of sugar to e ach gallon of the l quid . ferment in a cask or open earthen jar, filling up as it evaporates . When fermentation ceases stop well and set aside for eight months fi before racking o .

a S ice d EL DER B ER R Y W I NE N o . ( p ) Boil five gallons elderberries with same amount of rain

i - water . Stra n and add twenty three pounds white sugar with four ounces red (or crude) tartar and to each gallon

Add - allow a dessertspoon of strong yeast . one half ounce each of ginger , nutmeg , mace , and cloves with one and a Le t half ounces bitter almonds . ferment and when this k off n is over close cask tight , rac ing it later at conve ience .

EL DER B L OS S OM W INE (H o m e -b re we d F ro n tign ac ) A i llow a gallon of water to each quart of str pped flowers , M and to each gallon of water three pounds of sugar . ake a good syrup of sugar and water , skimming well , and pouring i while bo ling over the flowers . To each gallon of this liquor add the juice of one lemon and a heaping dessert ” oi - - spoon home brewed hop yeast , stirring thoroughly . P i lace in wooden or earthen receptacle , covered w th a heavy cloth , and let ferment three days . Then strain and add the beaten white of one egg , stirring well through the liquid . Allow for each gallon of wine a little over a pound i of ra sins , chopping them and placing on the bottom of On the cask . them pour the wine ; close the bu ng , and in i six months it w ll be found ready for use .

EL DER B ER R Y B R A NDY

For each gallon of berries allow a gallon of brandy and let ' stand a month before using . Spice may be added if wished . A CLUSTER OF B ERRI ES 1 7 1

EL DER -F L A V OU R ED A L E Allow a bushel of the berries to a cask of ale and eight di ounces each of cinnamon , can ed lemon or orange peel , nutmeg , mace , cloves , and ginger .

EL DER B ER R Y C A TS U P (F or Fis h o r Flavourin g Me at S au c e s ) Place a gallon of ripe berries in a jar and pour over them one gallon boiling vinegar , letting stand in this over night on back of warm stove . In the morning strain and place C the vinegar in preserving kettle to heat . rush and rub berries through sieve and add to the vinegar a —teaspoon each of grated nutmeg , clove and cinnamon , one half tea spoon each salt and ginger , and two blades of mace . Boil

an d . Le t for ten minutes , then b ottle (spice all) while hot re - stand five or six weeks , then strain ; heat to boiling

- point and t e bottle .

EL DER B ER R Y jE L L Y

This may be made of the elderberries alone , plain , spiced , l or with lemon juice added , or half and ha f , with green or r ripe grapes (former preferably) , gooseber ies , or currants .

EL DER -F L OWER P A N C A KES A N D JUNKET

The finest flowers of the elder blossoms , stripped , may be whipped lightly into pancakes or muffins just before “ - baking , a half cupful to each batch of ordinary quan i . A tity This gives both lightness and flavour . pla n junket should have added one- fourth part flowers to quantity of cream or milk used .

EL DER B ER R Y TA RTS

The elderberry is equal to the huckleberry for tarts but should have spices or lem on added to flavour. x7 2 FRUIT RECIPES

E LDER-B E R RIES DR IED

r s w Sun e dry the berries as fo tra berries (In some parts n t of Europe peasants use these i soups through he winter. )

EL DER -F L OW ER W A TER To five pounds of flowers take one gallon water and one

t D o ff a - half ounce re ctified spiri s . istil half gallon .

WH ITE EL DER OIN TMEN T

B oil equal weight of elder flowers and fre sh sweet lard or suet and strain through a cloth into boxes or j ars . This is considered a cooling application .

DRIED B A R B ERR IES

Dry as for other berries in a loose layer in the sun .

B A R B E R R IE S P R ES ER VED (C old )

Place bunches of barberries in jars (uncooked) ; fill up with cold molasses , and seal tight .

P R ES ER VED B A RB ER R IES C OOKED

Place berries in double boiler for two hours or till heated an d A through . Remove weigh . llow equal weight of berries and sugar but cook berries with no water (on re o placing) twenty minutes bef re adding sugar . When sugar has dissolve d , berries soften and juice begins to jell , t remove o jars and seal .

B A R B ER R Y JAM

A - llow one quarter pound sugar to each quart ripe berries . Mash them ; mix with sugar (no water) and boil till no

c m s . C our or e s a s u ri es ook an h ov r. alway , The jam m y u as i t ar be put p it is , or made n o m malade . mashed through

1 7 4 FRU IT RECI PES

allow a pound of sugar for each pound of juice . Stir together with the hand till sugar is smoothly dissolved . P lace in glasses an d let stand in window where hot sun light may shine o n them through glass for at least five

. days . Cover and keep in cool , dry place

B A R - L E - DU C (Imitation o f th e Impo rte d Jam or Je lly )

1 Add - fifth . one part of currants (by weight) to red raspberries . Crush and strain currants and weigh again ,

i . this t me with the raspberries , fruit separated by paper

Add three - quarters pound of sugar for each pound of the second weighing of fruit and juice and simmer , then boil

— —fiv e skimming for twenty minutes , when add the rasp berries (uncrushed) and boil until the juice jells (in about

fifteen minutes) , then remove and seal well while hot .

2 r i two - . Boil together five m nutes thirds measure of sugar (as two pints) to one of cold water . Measure the syrup resulting and when again boil ing add to it ' equal measure of strained red or white i currant juice . When th s jells add seeded garden currants which have been carefully opened with fine sharp wooden blade or a quill . If the measure of syrup is one pint add one pint currants ; if a quart , then a quart of currants and so Le t on . boil up once when remove ; pour into jars and set (uncovered) in a dark , dry , and cool place for five or s six day , then seal . The currant juice is sometimes omitted , r only the sugar sy up and fruit used . The currants , if red , u sho ld be pale in colour .

R E D CURRANT JA M

Wash , stem , and weigh currants , allowing equal weight r of sugar , adding it when f uit has been boiling three minutes . When dissolved and at boiling point remove and place in jars . A CLUSTER OF B ERRIES 1 7 5

k k To ma e a darker , thic er jam boil sugar and fruit together an hour .

B L A C K CURRANT JA M

Make as above but cook fifteen minutes before adding sugar , then fifteen minutes before removing , stirring all the

While . CURRANT R A IS I N JA M M Wash , drain , seed , and chop two pounds uscatel raisins M an d a . pl ce in preserving kettle eanwhile have ready , ffi washed and stemmed , su cient white currants to make s Add three quart of juice when mashed and strained . to this three pounds of sugar and stir the sweetened juice into Mix the raisins . well and let slowly come to a boil , skim L ming and stirring till it is thick and smooth . e t cool ; place in jars and seal . S P IC ED C UR R A NTS

Three pounds sugar ; five pounds currants ; one pint vinegar ; tablespoon each cloves , cinnamon , ginger , and

. m allspice , with one teaspoon salt Sim er carefully three hours , then bottle . C U R R A N T C A TS UP

To four pounds washed , stemmed currants add two pounds brown sugar and one pint vinegar . Simmer till sufficiently thick when add spice (one teaspoon each cloves , pepper , and cinnamon) . Boil five minutes longer ; strain and bottle . C UR R A N T S H ORTC A KE

Make a sweet shortcake , placing between layers and on top washed , mashed currants well sweetened , with a

rrin e . me gu , lightly browned 1 7 6 FRUIT RECIPES

R ED C U R RAN T P UDDING

Stew two- thirds currants and one - third raspberries with a little sugar till soft ; pour ofi juice and place fruit in a pudding- dish lined with stale sponge cake Le t stand till cold with cake on top and on this a weight. Boil down the juice poure d o ff and when ready to serve pour it over the pudding . C U R R A N T I C E A N D S H ER B ET

e To each quart of juice allow a pound of sugar . L t gently heat till sugar is melted when cool an d freeze . S erve with stemmed currants sprinkled over the ice in sherbet glasses . Sweet raspberry syrup will lessen the tartness e and give variation of flavour . For sherbet add th usual whipped whites of eggs (se e Introductory Recipes) .

C UR R A N T IC E C R EA M P artly freeze the cream or custard before adding currant o juice . Where fresh or canned currants are not t be had of ur an l an d e of o n e mo two teaspoons , c r t je ly juic le n may b e use ac i of th o e x ea d for e h p nt e fr z n mi ture. (cr m, custard. or ice) . C U R RAN T C UP C f ook into syrup a pint each o sugar and water . When co ol pou r it over stemmed currants and set on ice four l h ours . Serve in sherbet glasse s .

C UR R A NT S H R UB

Strain currant juice and allow a pound of sugar for each

. pint of juice Boil five minutes , then stir till cool . Bottle when cold . Old e f ashion e d proportion is one t ab le Spoon o l A t each g ass of water . nother shrub calls for a wine glass

of brandy to each pint of syrup .

A CLUSTER OF B ERRI ES x7 7

R E D C UR RA NT W INE

To a quart each of currant juice and sugar allow two P s quarts of water . lace in a ca k unstopped , for—three weeks , when place bung in loosely for a week longer until e all dang r of fermentation is past . Then seal tight and

let stand a year before using .

CURRANT A N D RAS P B ERRY W I NE To four gallons of red currants add one quart red rasp

r d . n be ries ; scal , crush , and strain O the pulp pour five

and a half gallons cold water and one pound sliced red beet ,

letting stand over night . When strained add this to the D juice . issolve in the whole ten pounds white sugar and P k three ounces red tartar . lace in cas and when fermenta

tion has ceased bung tight and let stand eight months .

B L A C K C U R R A N T A N D S TR A W B ER R Y W INE To three gallons black currants add six quarts straw o berries , two ounces red tartar , and twelve and a half p unds H of sugar . eat the fruit and press out juice then add

sugar . When dissolved stir in five and a half gallons soft water and let ferment .

G R EEN C U R R A N T W I NE

r Take full grown currants still green in colour . Ste n and weigh and allow for each three pounds one gallon M G C water . ash and proceed as with ooseberry hampagne , using brown instead of white sugar .

B L A C K C UR R A NT B R A NDY (F or In te s tin al Dis orde rs)

In on e gallon cold water place two gallons black currants .

- e Le t heat gradually and boil one half hour . R move and cool ; add two gallons deodorised pure spirits ; stir and 1 7 8 FRU IT RECI P ES

. strain , mashing fruit to extract juice To juice add four u l in pounds sugar and place in a cask . Wash fr it pu p s half- gallon each of water and spirits ; mash and train again ; add two more pounds sugar and pour in with first Ma m liquor (in cask) . y be used in a onth but improves with age . W H IT E C U R R A NT B R A N DY

To each half- gallon currant juice add one quart spirits Le t and two pounds sugar . stand undisturbed three months before bottling.

C UR R A N T VI NEG A R

Pour juice from two gallons mashed cu rrants in a barrel ; wash remaining pulp in water ; add to it two gallons molas ses ; strain when dissolved and pour also into the barrel

- Dis with enough soft water to fill barrel two thirds full . solve meantime a cup of strong yeast in a gallon of water w and add to the mixture . P lace barrel in sun and hile fermenting shake often . The autumn following add " eight gallons water . C U R R A N T P UN C H

M n ake a syrup of a pint each of sugar a d water , boiling A d ui m . d and skim ing j ce of an orange and lemon ; strain , and mix in a glass of currant jelly or half pint currant Le . t juice cool , then add shaved ice and charged water .

DR I ED G A R DE N C UR R A NTS

Pick just before ripe ; stew without crushing in a little sugar ; spread on plates, with sugar strewn thickly over , and dry in the sun . To be eaten as they are as a relish , or as confection with desserts . May also be soaked over night and stewed for sauce .

1 80 FRU IT RECI P ES

place the berries in it , simmering forty minutes , till berries are translucent , when they are ready to seal .

G OOS EB ER R I ES A N D W H ITE C U R R A N T JA M

a Use equal weight of gooseberries , and curr nts and sugar i equal to their combined weight . S mmer together slowly , k crushing and cooking till tender and thic .

P R ES ER VED W H OL E G OOS EB ER RIES

Make a strong syrup of two pou nds of sugar to a pint of ' water. Prick gooseberries in several places and put them ° e 1 60 in the syrup . L t heat to and take from stove but o let berries remain in syrup ver night . Repeat twice ;

re - then heat , stopping just short of boiling point , again letting berries stand over night in the syrup . While still cold place them in bo—ttles with syrup poured over and set bottles in the water bath to finish . Should the berries seem to be cracking before the water boils remove bottles at once and seal ; otherwise let stand till water is at boiling point . S IMP L E G OOS EB ER R Y P IE

To gooseberries stewed in a little water add sugar to taste , then crush fruit somewhat ; add dessertspoon each P of flour and butter (mixed) . lace all in pan or dish with t - c ri pas e lined sides and over with crust , p cked or slashed, and bake . G OOS R TA R T EB ER Y N o . 1

t w k t o- S e berries li e cranberries , using w thirds as much su gar as fruit . Line tin or dish with pastry and bake it till light brown before placing gooseberries in it . Finish with diagonal lattice of pastry ; replace in oven and bake i t ll done . A CLUSTER OF B ERRIES 1 8 1

GOOS B R R TA R T o E E Y N . 2 P lace sugar on ripe , uncooked berries , letting stand till s clear , when ma h through coarse sieve and fill pastry shells

r a - k (al eady h lf ba ed) . Replace in oven till heated through , w hen place meringue on top and lightly brown . Whipped cream may be substituted for meringue or canned berries ' A for the fresh . lso the very small tart shells may be used .

GOOS EB E R R Y TA R T No: 3 L P ine sides of dish with short crust . ile ripe , uncooked berries in centre with one - fourth pint sugar and place crust

- P . on top . rick well Bake three quarters of an hour ; sprinkle fine sugar and nutmeg on top and serve with a jug of cream and dish of custards .

GOOS EB E R R Y P UD DIN G (B oile d )

Top and tail a quart of full - grown but green berries ; C scald and let stand till cold , after which drain them . hop six ou nces of beef suet and rub well through a pound of

i - Of - Of flour , —add ng a half teaspoon salt and a half pint ice water just enough to keep the dough together. Roll out in in circular form and place gooseberries the middle ,

- meantime having added to them a half pound of sugar . D (More added before boiling would toughen them . ) raw up the dough as for dumplings and place in a wet , dredged w pudding cloth ; tie , leaving room for s elling , and place in a pot of fast boiling water , with plate at bottom to pre i vent scorching . Boil three hours , turning once in a wh le and filling up with boiling wate r as needed . Serve with su gar .

1 G OOS EB E R R Y F OOL N o . Top and tail a quart of ripe berries and simmer in a pint of water . When the fruit turns colour , is soft and swelled 1 8 2 FRUIT RECI P ES

Add ~ drain and put it through a colander . one half pound H sugar and let cool . eat a quart of milk and stir into it Le t carefully the beaten yolks of two eggs . thicken and flavour with nutmeg then remove and mix carefully with the cold fruit .

L O 2 G OOS EB ER R Y F OO N . Prepare very young gooseberries as above and when u ll cool add to them grad a v a quart of cream , whipping well . Serve cold .

G OOS EB E R RY S A UC E FO R L A MB Scald a half—pint of berries and stir into a pint of drawn butter . Serve hot . G O OS EB E R R Y C A TS U P M C C ake as for urrant atsup , using five pounds goose berries with two pounds of sugar.

G OO S EB E R R Y C H UTNEY

To two full pints of n e arlv ripe gooseberries allow three i i C o fourths pound of ra s ns and three onions . hop t gether i and heat slowly w th one cup brown sugar , three table of spoons each mustard , ginger , and salt , a saltspoon of i red pepper and a little turmer c . Simmer forty minutes with two pints vinegar , then strain through coarse sieve and seal in little jars .

l G OO S E B E R R Y C H IP S P lace gooseberries in jars and let them boil in outer i vessel t ll soft . Remove and to each pound of pulp allow

- P a half pound sifted loaf sugar . lace this , well mixed — about an eighth of an inch thick in flat dishes ; set in sun and dry , which may require several days . The dried b e cakes may cut in strips and twisted .

1 84 FR U IT RECI P ES a cool dry place where it will not be shaken in the slightest Le t t — degree . fermen thoroughly perhaps three weeks then bottle , corking well and placing bottles on sides . This will be fit to use in eight months and if rightly made will be very like champagne .

G O OS EB E R R Y W A TER IC E e Squeeze juice from st wed berries unsweetened , or the very ripe berries , allowing a pound of sugar to each pint . Mix well and freeze . i a The ju ce from the stewed fruit m y be used further , for custards and creams as well , CHAPTER XIV

TH E L E MO N (Citru s limonu m: Rutacee )

EMON k S are not often enough used as food , drin , or

medicine . There is nothing more wholesome in ff in natural foods , more e ective toning the system and purifying the blood (unless for some special reason the acid is directly prohibited ; see note on potash in Introduction)

than this most positive of citrus fruits . It is a special i agent with the liver , acting d rectly upon it and assisting Of with the proper action the bowels , cooling the blood and reaching or preventing a long list of ailments which

take their rise in disorders of the liver . It is true that the ff liver may be made torpid by the nerves , which a ect it

strongly , so that worry , for instance , will partially paralyse its freedom and cause heavy colds and more serious troubles , but whether from improper physical or mental diet—from — v whatever cause a clogged li er can make one as miserable ,

as discouraged and ill as one can be and live . If too late to remove the cause the condition should be relieved or it goes further , being , without doubt , the cause of suicides “ m e n tal from the resulting depression , as well as death ” from natural causes , through disordering the functions V of other vital organs of the body . ividly picturesque descriptions of the horrors Of these various resulting com plications may be found in almost any patent medicine circular , for it is upon the liver that the authors of these literary gems place the blame for most of the ills to which

flesh is heir . The public is not so apt to seek or dwell upon written 1 85 1 86 FRUIT RECIP ES or realised liver- nightmares when lemons are plentifully M “ and judiciously used . alaria is one of the simple and direct results of a rebellious , inactive liver , and one most commonly known . Typhoid , with its more serious , complicated aspect , comes under this head , yet physicians claim that even these germs can be driven ou t or actually killed by the plentiful and timely use of lemons . It is, however , not only the juice which is beneficial sometimes, the rind being a helpful accessory , as the method of pre it paring and using in Roman malarial districts proves ,

- as does also an old fashioned remedy for colds . It is claimed that it will entirely prevent or cure scurvy and in England every foreign - going ship is required by law to take such a supply of lemon juice that every seaman shall have a daily allowance of an ounce after having been — As ten days at sea Wood Bache . a cooling drink — its refrigerant qualities are proven especially when u sed i E . ac without sugar , wh ch is heating ven merely as an ce sso ry or fiav ou rin g it is extremely refreshing in food or drink and many not commonly known ways of using the

c on e lemon are here presented , as well as others more v n tion al as , of value in that very common and natural desire e for vari ty . (It should be remembered that lemon juice , or any other acid , should never be placed in tin recep Use i taeles . enamel or porcela n . ) RE CIP ES ITA L IA N C UR E F O R MA L A R IA — — Slice thin one lem o n rind and all and place in sauce pan . Over this pour one and a half pints cold water and cook

- i down to one half pint , then stra n through coarse cotton or linen so that part of the tender pulp and rind exude . Le t stand till cool and drink it fasting . This should be u — — kept p continuously for some days .

88 FRU IT RECI P ES

L EMON S IN DR IN KS

When one is forty miles from a lemon , one may still have “ lemonade ” by using citric acid in crystals or pul fiav ourin i e d . v er s , with or without a pure lemon tincture as g NO ill eff ects can accrue from using this acid in such trifling

- quantity as required to make tart a drink or pudding sauce .

It cannot completely take the place of the fruit juice , but , as it is the acid found in and taken from the fruits of th e citrus family , it can be substituted , therefore , if necessary . in moderation without harm .

TE A W ITH L EMO N JUIC E This is not a mere fad or foreign fashion without foun dation of reason . There is a scientific fact beneath the surface . Where either lime or lemon juice is used in the clear tea (with or without sugar) there is little possibility of harm resulting from the eff ect of the tea (such as may be felt when tea , pure and simple , is used) since the citric ff acid of the fruit o sets the tannic acid of the tea , rendering it refreshing and wholesome . (It is perhaps needless to add that the black , perfectly cured teas should be used ; not the green or mixed teas . )

L EMON “S QUA S H OR S IMP L E L EMO N A DE For a good plain lemonade (called “ Lemon Squash b Of y our British cousins) use one lemon to one pint water, adding very little or no sugar if one wishes the most “ " ff r cooling e ect , as sugar evolves heat du ing oxidation , and should be avoided only a degree less than alcohol in hot weath er .

S IMP L E GG L MO A D F or On e E E N E ( ) , k Beat the white and yol of one egg , separately , then

u ice f of together , and add one tablespoonful of sugar , the j f one lemon and a cof ee cupful of water , then whip again . TH E LEMON 1 89

Strain this , pouring it on to a large tablespoonful of shaved ice ; shake up and pour into glass from which it is to be served .

E G G L EMO NA DE W ITH S H E R R Y (In Quan tity )

Slice thin four lemons , add six dessertspoonful s Of sugar

s Le and pour over this three pint of boiling water . t

- stand several hours , then add one half pint of sherry . Strain and add the well-whipped whites of the four eggs and P a pinch of salt . ack ice around the pitcher and when chilled serve . ITA L IA N L EMO NA DE

Of Slice one dozen lemons , add to them a pound sugar , and let stand over night . In the morning strain , add one f Of pint O sherry and three pints boiling water . Beat or shake this well , then add one pint of boiling milk and

D . strain . rink hot or cold

L EMO N—OR A N G EA DE

Use as many oranges as lemons and carbonated , instead Mix Of re of plain , water . the juice with amount sugar quired some hours before serving , at the last moment , P only , adding the carbonated water . ineapple juice may be substituted for the orange , and as an artistic finish , a graceful touch is the addition of shredded orange , pine

r e . apple , che ri s , berries , or angelica

L EMO N G IN G ER B EER

Pour eight quarts of cold water over six thin-sliced Of lemons, with one and a half pounds sugar and a little less Le t than an ounce of ginger root . this come to a boil Of before adding one tablespoonful of cream tartar , then strain and let stand till cool , when a yeast cake dissolved or broken into bits should b e stirred in an d th e whole 1 go FRUIT RECI P ES

allowe d to stand overnight . In the morning mix thoroughly in and bottle (corking tight) , placing bottles on the side cool place . In twelve hours the beer will be ready for use .

L EMO N W H EY Boil together for five minutes a pint each of milk and water and the juice Of two lemons . Strain and add sugar to taste . L EMO N S YR U P (W ith L e m on s )

The following recipe makes it possible to have real lem on ade at an y time . To each pint of lemon juice add one pint of water and two and a half pounds of sugar . Add Of the grated rind the lemons used , then place in enamelled kettle and simmer slowly until thick , when it should be strained and bottled (hot) .

L EMO N S YR U P (W ith o u t L e mon s ) To three pints of water add six pounds of sugar and boil Of five minutes . Into this stir the white one egg beaten i up with half a p nt of cold water . When a scum rises (as it will in a few moments) set the kettle off the fire and let stand five minutes , when the scum must be removed . When cool measure and to a gallon Of syrup add three r ounces of ta taric acid dissolved in half a pint of hot water. Of Oil f With this add one teaspoonful O lemon . The latter must be absolutely sweet and fresh ; if the least rancid i the syrup will be spo led .

L EMO N TI N C TU R E F OR F L A VO UR I N G Pare the lemons quite thin and cover the shavings of the

ellow - C y rind with good grain alcohol . ork tight . When

ready for use the alcohol will be bright yellow . This should then be poured o ff into a second bottle from which is it to be used .

1 9 2 FRUIT RECI P ES

d w together ten minutes , then add heated sugar ; boil o n to in desired consistency and place , while boiling hot , small jars or marmalade pots .

o 1 W ith o u G latin L EMON JE L L Y N . ( t e e ) It is usually considered impossible to make lemon jelly without gelatine but by the following process the appar en tly impossible may be achieved . Small quan tities are best managed and most successful in results . Slice fou r lemon s very thin and cover (in granite kettle) with two

e C - quarts of cold wat r . ook down to one half the quantity a and strain , squeezing skin and pulp as well s juice through C i an a coarse cheesecloth b ag. ook aga n d when at boil

' in i a ne g po nt str in a second time but through a fi bag . Re turn juice to kettle and after ten minutes ' simmering add hot sugar in proportion of one heaping pin t to one scant i pint of juice . Bo l until sugar melts and it jells , which should require but five or six minutes . The result is a light tender jelly which will acquire firmness by being set the in hot sun several days in succession . A a second method is to proceed as bove , with the " addition of uncooked pie - melon pulp (half and half i with the lemon in weight) , us ng sugar in proportion ate addition .

M E Y O 2 i L E ON j L L N . (W th G e latin e ) Soak one box of gelatine (American brands preferably) n r in one pi t of cold water for an hou , when add on e quart i an d of bo ling water two cups of sugar . Stir un til gelatine is thorou ghl y dissolved . When cool add the ju ice of fou r lemons and strain through coarse cotton cloth into glasse s u rtl s or other mo lds when pa y cool , etting on ice to harden . This may be more tart than desired ; if so add sugar just at the last . In warm weather if ice is unavailable u se but one pint of hot water.

1 94 FRU IT RECI PES

juice of two lemon s . Beat three eggs separately and add the yolks to the above . If the pudding is to be baked it should be removed at this stage from the fire and poured

- into the baking dish , remaining in the oven until the cus u tard is set , when a mering e made of the whipped whites Of the eggs and two tablespoonfuls of sugar is to be poured d over the top and browned . The pu ding is equally

“

n ot . delicious baked , however In this case the whipped whites should be lightly beaten in on being removed from o the stove and when somewhat cool , poured int a glass dish and later set on ice . Serve with cream or wine sauce .

EG G L ES S L EMO N P IE OR P UDDI N G (A N ov e lty )

To the juice and grated rind of two lemons add one cup each of cold water , sugar , and grated , raw , Irish potato . As When used as a pie bake with upper crust only . a pudding use no crust but sprinkle with sugar and bits of butter and when baked serve with cream .

L EMO N C H EE S E F O R TA R T L ETS

TO the juice and grated rind of two lemons add beaten

- yolks of three eggs , one cup of sugar , and a half cup of butter .

Beat well and cook in double boiler until thick .

L EMO N C R EA M P IE H eat to boiling point one cup of water , adding juice and r g ated rind of two lemons with one cup of sugar . Stir well together and add one tablespoon of cornstarch dissolved Le t in cold water this boil up once then remove and cool .

H - ave the under crust baked by the time the above is cool , then add to the mixture the beaten yolks of three eggs ,

- u place the custard in the crust and bake one half ho r . When done remove from oven , let cool , then place on top a TH E LEMON 1 95 meringu e made of the whipped whites of the eggs and one in half cup of sugar , and brown oven .

L EMO N R IC E P UDDING

Of To one quart cold milk add two (small) , level table .

n oi r - spoo fuls rice , the g ated rind of two lemons , and one half Le t k cup of sugar . coo in double boiler until rice grains are

well filled out and tender , then place in baking dish and

bake for an hour , stirring the pudding a number of times meanwhile (even though a light brown skin forms repeated

ly) till the last fifteen minutes , when it should be allowed Add to brown . more sugar if not sweet as desired on plac wi ing in oven . This ll be creamy and delicate .

L EMO N S A GO A N D TA P IOCA Either tapioca or sago may be used for this with de

liciou s results , and the pudding may be made either clear

and tart or creamy and sweet . If the former is preferred

use water instead of milk . To one quart of cold water or milk add two large tablesp oonfuls of tapioca or sago and u soak for an ho r , then let come to a boil on moderate fire . With the water use the juice of two large or three small t Of lemons with the gra ed rind one , and a small cup Of

sugar . With the milk substituted use only the grated

rind (no ju ice) . When clear , soft , and thick , remove from

fire and beat in lightly the whipped whites of two eggs .

When cool place on ice . It is unnecessary to add the “ i whites of the eggs but they g ve a more delicate , feathery

consistency . L EMO N S P ON GE

Soak one box of gelatine in one and a half pints of cold wate r then place in granite kettle with the grated rind and

r e u . e t juice of th e lemon s and one cup of s gar L boil , pour 1 96 FRUIT RECIP ES

Off . e e , an d cool (If the grated rind is not desired xc pt for

flavour the liquor should at this stage h e strained . ) When beginning to set add the whipped whites of two eggs and beat until spongy in appearance (length of time required h diff ers with temperature) . Then heap lightly in t e dish b e se rv e d from which it is to or in mould and place on ice . Should this be made in warm weather when impossible to procure ice , the whipped whites should not be beaten in thoroughly but the gelatine allowed to set and the egg froth rising to the top should be served with the sponge as a sauce . By placing the bowl containing the gelatine in an outer vessel of cold water and changing the water about

- every half hour or twenty minutes , the sponge will harden better . B OIL ED L E MON P UDDIN G

on - - Beat together e fourth pound of butter , one half pound r of sugar , the g ated rind of two lemons , and two table o spoons i flour , with a pinch of salt . In a separate basin

- - stir one half pound of bread crumbs , with the juice of n the lemo , and four eggs well beaten (previously) , then add

- to the prepared batter. Tie securely in a well dredged pudding-cloth (leaving room for swelling) and boil three hours . Serve with hard sauce .

L EMO N DUMP L IN G S

These dumplings may be made in two ways ; b y using a soft , sweet biscuit dough , cutting out as for large bis cuits , placing in the centre of each a teaspoonful of lemon

, marmalade and tying in large squares of cotton or linen , and dropping in boiling water for forty- fiv e minutes (these may be baked , instead) , or by the following recipe : Mix

- - thoroughly a half pound of bread , grated , one fourth pound each of sugar and suet , the grated rind of two and ju ice of

; g , or cu one lemon one rated tart apple p of tart pineapple ,

1 98 FRU IT RECIP ES teaspoon of butter and two tablespoons of flour mixed hi smooth with a little Of the water . Boil t s together i until it thickens (watch ng carefully) . then place between layers . L EMO N S NA P S

- Beat together one cup of sugar , two thirds cup of butter,

- o f adding two eggs , one half teaspoon soda dissolved in four tablespoons of hot water , and one tablespoon of lemon Ad d f juice with grated rind of two lemons . suf icient flour to roll soft and thin and bake in a qu ick oven .

L EMON C R A C KE R S

Of Two cups of sugar , one each shortening and milk , two eggs , grated rind of three lemons , and two ounces of b ffi f aking ammonia , with su cient flour to make a very stif h ou t dough . Roll t in , in squares , and bake .

L MO S A DW I H Mr R o r r E N N C ES ( s . e )

Cu t r bread in fo m desired , then place slices in tight box i it w th lemon peel wrapped close to and between slices . L eave for several hours before using then butter and serve . The butter should also have been prepared with lemon fiav ou rin g by placing lemon rinds generously in the butter jar or cup , and when ready to spread the juice of one lemon added for each cup of butter .

L EMO N C A TS U P

Mix one tablespoon grated horseradish with the grated

. Add rind of four lemons one teaspoon of salt , the juice Of the lemons , a dessertspoon each of white mustard seed

and celery seed , a few blades of mace , four cloves , and a dash

f - O . fiv e red pepper Boil thirty minutes , then bottle while

. w hot In five or six weeks this will be ready to serve ith fish . TH E LEMON 1 99

MA iTR E D'H OTE L S A UC E F OR FIS H

With two tablespoons of butter cream in one- half tea

S - poon of salt , one eighth teaspoonful of white pepper , and c e ach of a tablespoon lemon juice and powdered parsley . K eep very cold till ready to serve with fish .

L EMO N I C E To one quart of water add one pint of sugar and boil five minutes . Remove from fire and add juice Of three large lemons with one dessertspoon of gelatine dissolved in a little cold water. Stir well and , when cool , freeze .

L EMO N S H ER B ET

To the syrup given above add juice of three lemons and in one orange . The sugar used the syrup should have been treated as for Lemon Sugar for Flavouring " or flavoured with a little pure lemon oil . Place in freezer and when half e froz n add the whipped whites of two eggs , then finish freezing. The yolks of the eggs may be added with equally good flavour and make the sherbet more acceptable and nourishing for invalids .

F R O ZEN L EMO N C US TA R D

Make simple custard (see Introductory Recipes for ”

C L C . ustard ) or emon ustard , and let cool Grate three Or flav ou rin lemons , using this lemon tincture for g . If the rind is used stir in with the milk before cooking the

se z custard . If tincture is u d add just before free ing . (The quantity will depend upon the quality and strength of the flav ourin g) . L EMO N IC E C R EA M

Mix the grated rind of two lemons and one orange with

one quart of mixed milk and cream and partially freeze . z o o FRUIT RECI P ES

H ave ready a syrup made of the juice of two large lemons and one orange and a pint of sugar . When cool add this M to the partly froz en cream and finish freezing . ( ore sugar may be preferred . )

C A NDIED L EMO N P EEL

See Orange Chips . z o a FRUIT RECIP ES

Chinese pomology ) are parvenues beside the sour or Seville E orange . ven the Oriental varieties just mentioned and the sweet orange treeswhich for centuries have been found grow ing on the H imal ayas probably came from the sour stock origi S O O nally , evidence and pinion seem to emphatically indicate .

The Moors took this orange to Spain . From just what ffi particular spot they may first have imported it , it is di cult e to say at this distance of time , but from that period (the b

D. of th e A . ginning eighth century , ) until into the fifteenth century , the sweet orange was not known or cultivated in E i urope wh le the sour orange was greatly cultivated . The Greeks and Romans seem to have known nothing Of any variety of orange and so , although biographical sketches A Ev e G of dam , , and the recian and Roman gods may by scoff ers be classed irreverently as equally and only alle orical 1 g , one fact may be depended upon ( ) that , as compared E with their first parents , the uropeans were hopelessly

- of— P matter fact , since the apple of aris was literally an w apple , hile botanists declare the forbidden fruit of the Garden to have been undoubtedly an orange or other mem i — ber of the citrus fam ly whether true or typical . (The ’ admirers of the chiram oy a claim that fruit as Eden s temp tation i i , but ne ther th s fact nor those people who would decry the Seville as sufficient to drive anyone from P aradise i need be cons dered . ) The imported Moorish orange was planted in great num

' ber in and about the city of Seville , singly and in groves , and immediately so flourished and grew in favour that it became widely known as the Seville ” orange and by this E —i name is still recognised throughout u—rope where n Italy and other countries , as well as Spain it is a commercial Of crop importance , whether exported in natural form or dr otherwise (the peel , ied or candied , or having u ndergone flav ou rin distillation for g or medicinal purposes) . TH E LD OU OR E LLE A E WI S R , S VI OR NG 2 0 3

It is now generally conceded that the Spaniards intro du ce d their adopted fruit into Florida durin g their earliest th e se e d explorations , although and soil were so eminently adapted to each other and the fruit of their union was so prolific that “ wild orange groves were soon to be found all over Florida and in consequence some authorities have ' declared it must be native to the Gulf regions . The Bitter

iu i C . au ran t m vu l ar s Sweet ( g ) is but a variety of the Seville , “ M in distin u ish though anville , in describing it as a tree g N able from the sour , terms it the ative wild orange of ” Florida . In flavour this variety is exactly what its name M indicates , both bitter and sweet . ost of the wild orange groves have been killed in some one Of the several descents

z to free ing temperature during the last century , or have i been budded to sweet var eties , as the sour stock is gen e rally immune from foot- rot and has all over the world proven less susceptible to extreme cold or drought than the sweet stock .

u rcmtiu m bi aradia The A g , as the Seville is scientifically is termed , smaller than the sweet orange tree , more gen e rall S s lli y inclined to be piny , and its leaves more truly p tical , though both these points vary . The oil cysts are concave , the general texture of pulp and rind heavier and coarser , and the flavour quite distinct from the common Th e sweet orange . flowers are similar in form and fra gran ce but susceptible of much variation by cultivation and Europeans are familiar with varieties of the bigaradia culti Nose a y ated exclusively for their floral beauty , as , the g y

P le bou u e tier Of F lant , or q the rench , these blossoms grow ing at the end Of the branches in thick clusters . Other

- flowe re d bi arade varieties are the double g , the myrtle arades flowe re d and the biz arre big , the last of which has

- purplish white flowers , and fruit which curiously varies

- in form and flavour . Throughout the semi tropical 2 0 4 FRU IT RECI P ES

portions of North America the original , simple form of the u imported Seville orange trees , blossoming and fr iting , also

Off er abun dance Of beauty to the ey e and nostril . But the av erage tourist fails to appreciate this ultimately because i e of lack of proper introduction , the tak ng for grant d that e this is the sw et orange of common popularity , and the consequent shock on discovery Of its peculiar acidity . This ao results in sudden coolness , the dropping of the slight ’ quaintance , and injury to the wild beauty s reputation and standing in society , whereas , were it but known that the Seville is the proud descendant Of the ancient Span ish line and one of the few remaining tan gible traces of the days of the gallant Spanish explorers , all this would be avoided . It is particularly a pity that the average Northerner misses so simple yet S O great an intellectual and gastronomic e n joy me n t since the season of the Seville is longer than that O S f the usual weet varieties , lasting well into the spring when sweet oranges are scarce and high in price . In time , as however , the Seville will doubtless come into favour has

- omelo S the grape fruit (or p ) , through imilar experience , for it was but a few years ago that the pomelo was not appreciated ; there was no demand for the few shipped north and the remainder , almost without exception , lay upon the ground until decayed because even in the South it was supposed that , although exceptional , depraved palates might be educated to the point of imaginary e n o m e n t j y , the pomelo could not be fit for cookery in any “ " form and even uncooked , separated from all rag and served with sugar , the result was extremely doubtful . From the fruit of the Seville much of the citric acid of commerce was manufactured until quite recent times . From its flowers most of the Oil of Neroli (one Of the bases eau de colo n e li ue u rs of g and q ) is made , although the sweet orange flowers are also used to a limited extent , and th e

20 6 FRUIT RECIP ES

varying degrees of acidity . Several individual and dis tin ctiv e methods of usage are the following

RECI PES

1 S C OTC H OR A N G E MA R MA L A DE N o .

The juice and grate d rind of one lemon must be used to every four pounds of oranges and the juice of two sweet oranges to every poun d of bitter or Seville oranges . Pare the fruit as thin as possible and cut the peel into very u small strips . Then q arter the oranges , removing seeds, and place in the preserving kettle with only sufficient water i to cover them . Squeeze w th the hand until the heat is too great, then press with a wooden spoon through a fine sieve . Add the chipped rind and a pound of sugar to each pint of

Ju l ce ' R A G MA R MA L 2 S C OTC H O N E A DE N O .

To two pints of chopped Seville oranges (pulp , rind , and juice) , add two pounds of yellow honey and cook down to proper consistency .

W IL D ORA N G MA R MA L A D F lorid a R e c i I E E ( pe N o. ) Peel and cut up the oranges and place in fresh water for

- twenty four hours , then in salt water for the same time and i again in fresh water , chang ng the water several times during the last twenty - four hours to remove all trace of the bitter tone . (If the bitterness is liked soak only as long as de e sired . ) Us equal weight oi sugar and fruit with only sufficient water to keep from burning when placed on the C fire . ook until rind is soft before adding sugar, then cook

t . down as desired and place in hea ed jars Seal .

W IL D ORA N G MA R MA L A D F l orid a R eci E E ( pe N O. 2)

r Off Wash and qua ter the oranges , then pull the peel and k soa the latter in brine over night . In the morning place in TH E LD OU OR EV LLE A E 2 0 WI S R , S I OR NG 7

- fresh water and bring to a boil , pouring Off the water and

replacing with fresh if still too salt or bitter . Remove white

pulp with a spoon , shred fine or chop the yellow shells re

maining and cook in preserving kettle . In separate vessels

have the pulp and juice cooking . When peel is tender cook the two portions in one kettle and when perfectly trans A lucent add sugar , pound for pound . few moments only will be necessary to cook to proper consistency after this

preparation . Sweet and sour oranges may be used half

an d half . O R A N G E A N D L EMO N MA R MA L A DE

Take equal parts lemon and Seville and sweet oranges ,

2 proceeding as for Florida Recipe No . with the exception that the water will not have to be replaced after bringing

to a boil and pouring o ff the first time .

P R ES E R VED S EVIL L E O R A N G E Peel the yellow rind from the fruit then halve crosswise

and seed . Sprinkle the halves thickly with salt and boil fruit in soda water for at least fifteen minutes (a heaping D teaspoon of soda to each quart of water) . rain and pour

over the oranges fresh hot water and repeat . If the rind M is not soft boil it until it is . ake a syrup of a pint of water to a pound of sugar (a pound of sugar for each pound

of fruit) and when thickening well add the fruit , cooking

it till translucent . Remove oranges , place in hot jars , and when syrup has cooked down till quite thick pour over the

fruit while the syrup is at boiling point , filling jars pretty

full . Seal well .

S EVIL L E O RA N G E JEL L Y i M O M e No . 1 ake as for Scotch range armalad , omitt ng

‘ - i W the chippe d r n d . Boil the . juice ith the rind of two sweet

oranges and two lemons , removing them when the juice 2 0 8 FRU IT RECIP ES

has cooked down rather thick , then strain and add sugar as dire cted . S EVIL L E O R A N G E W I NE

For each gallon of juice add two gallons of water , and three pounds of sugar to each gallon of the resulting liquid .

Le - t this ferment , covering bung hole with thin cotton cloth only . Fermentation will cease in two months or less , when rack Off into another receptacle (preferably a good barrel each time) , stop the bung and keep in a cool place .

OR A N G E B R A N DY

P - lace. the thin peeled rind of eight oranges with three fourths pint of juice in stone receptacle and pour over this

- A a half gallon of best French brandy . dd after four days Le a pound and a quarter of sugar and stir up well . t stand

- Ma again , for twenty four hours , when strain and cork . y be used in five weeks .

DO M S TIC C R A A 1 E U CO N o .

P r repare ten o anges as above but do not add juice . The dried rind will answer if the fresh is not convenient . Cover b ran d th e for four days with a gallon of y , n strain , add three pounds of sugar, and proceed as above .

DOM S TIC C R A OA O 2 E U C N . Take the rind of twelve oranges and pour over them a P e gallon of pure whisky . roc ed as above , adding a quarter

- to a half pound more sugar .

P R S R D O RA G F L OW R S N O E E VE N E E . 1

Place alternate layers of o range flowers and salt in jars and screw on the covers well . There should be at least

- d one thir the weight of the flowers in salt .

2 1 0 FRUIT RECIP ES

O R A N G E F L O W ER IC I N G

P repare flowers as above , boiling in with the syrup until the syrup is ready to slightly harden in cold water . Then whipin with the stiff- beaten white of an egg and spread on cake or cookies .

O R A N G E F L OW E R W A TE R

Oran e F - Take of g lowers , forty eight troy ounces ; water , ix h em ‘ n d — M t a t . . U . sixteen pints dis il eight pints S . D ispensatory . OR A N G E F L OW E R IC E S

S The simple ice , herbet , cream , or custard may be made by using the Introductory Recipes for ices an d flav ou rin g th e P O F with syrup of reserved range lowers , or the recipe O O for range Ice under the Sweet range may be used , O r as liked , flavoured with range Flower Sy up , or Orange

Flower Water .

2 1 2 FRUIT RECI P ES under the wild orange in the preceding chapter and some of the recipes given there may be adapted to these sweeter varieties . RECI P ES

S H E R R IE D TA N G ER INE

Cu t a slide from across the tops of the tangerines and remove the pulp with a spoon . From these pieces take all the coarse fibre , then mix the pulp with sugar and flavour with sherry . Return the mixture to the shells , chill , and serve . ORA N GE S W ITH C OC OA NUT

H ere is a pretty way to vary the usual serving of Am r sia as - b o , the sliced , cocoanut sprinkled orange is often : H a e w termed lve the unpeeled fruit , th n ith a small , sharp knife remove th e pulp from the skins . Place the pulp in a bowl an d mix with fresh cocoanut if possible to e secure it (though the desiccated form, soaked a f w moments a t o in milk m y serve he purp se) , and sugar , with a dash of lemon juice . Replace in the shells and serve each half on

i a small fruit plate garn shed with some form of dainty leaves . O RA N G E S A L A DS For any of the following forms of salad peel the fruit “ - to the juice pulp , cutting out core and heavy rag . With quite tart fruit serve the oranges sliced on lettuce , tender a c bbage leaves or sorrel , with a simple French dressing , using wild orange juice instead of vinegar (three table

S poons of oil to one of acid) . Season with salt and paprika or tabasco . This dressing may be omitted and the salad varied by substituting sherry with a little paprika as a. finish . Other forms of salad may b e prepared by mixing the TH E ORANGE 2 1 3

- a orange with chopped celery stalks , pples and nuts , one or all , or with banana alone (sliced) and serving with

mayonnaise . (See Introductory Recipe s . )

O R A N G E OMEL E T

P e n to - c eel thre oranges dow the juice pulp, then sli e in lengthwise strips until the heavier rag around the core

. M is reached Set these slices aside . ake a plain omelet

S e a e . with three eggs , beating whites and y olks p rat ly Add to the y olks one - half cup of oran ge juice an d the

grated rind of one orange , a saltspoon of salt and two

tablespoonfuls Of sugar . Beat this in with the stiff whipped whites and place in hot buttered omelet pan . l When the omelet is set and browning , place the s iced

orange on top , fold over , and serve at once .

O R A N G E F L OW E R S OUF FL E Break in bits in a bowl six macaroons (well flavoured with almonds) and mix them with a handful of orange

. O blossoms or buds , pounding them well together range fl m ower water ay be substituted (a large wineglassful) . A lso stir in S ix ounces of powdered sugar . Beat separately now the whites and yolks of six eggs ; Add the smooth yolks to the o tlie r ingredients and last stir in lightly the ff H in sti whites . ave four ounces of butter heating the omelet pan and when beginning to turn brown pour in on “ i it the batter . When t begins to colour transfer it to the sou ffié dish (buttered) ; place in hot oven and bake about ten minutes ; till slightly browned and puff ed quite high . On it sift powdered sugar and serve at once .

O RA N G E S A N D R IC E

This may be prepared and served in two diff erent way s : as a breakfast dish or a dessert . If for the former , cook 2 1 4 FRUIT RECI P ES

plain boiled rice , using half milk and half water , and add

- - ing one half cup of sugar . Serve with thin sliced oranges .

A s a compote , for dessert , pare the orange to the fruit

. pulp , then halve (across) and cut out the core of each H ave ready a syrup of sugar and water with a little lemon juice added , and in this cook the oranges until tender and P n ot . clear , but until they come to pieces lace them around a mound of plain boiled rice and pour the syrup over the fruit and rice . Serve with cream , whipped or plain , or a sweet custard sauce . O R A N G E F R ITTER S Make a simple batter (See Introductory Recipes) and in this dip slices or sections of orange from which all peeling ,

Fr an d core have been removed . y at once in hot fat in a r proper f ying kettle and when brown drain , dust with powdered sugar , and serve .

OR A N G E S H OR TC A KE

Make a sweet shortcake (see Introductory Recipes)

‘ - and after baking , butter it , then pour over it thin sliced oranges well sweetened . Serve with cream , whipped or plain. O R A N G E S UET P UDDI N G

two To cupsful of stale bread add one pint sweet milk ,

fin e - — one cup chopped suet , three fourths cup of sugar , two

- t - well beaten eggs , a saltspoon of sal , one half teaspoon baking powder , the juice of one orange and grated rind of two . Stir together and set aside for twenty minutes in

- a covered bowl , then bake in buttered pudding dish

- (tying cloth over top) , for three quarters of an hour . This may , instead , be boiled , in one mould or in individual , s—mall ones , tying the cloth over tops securely and boiling for the large mould , one hour ; for the smaller one , forty minutes .

2 1 6 FRUIT RECI P ES

O R A N G E L OA F C A KE

On e cup of sugar ; one -half cup butter ; three eggs ; one cup of rich milk or light sweet cream ; grated rinds of i two oranges and their ju ce . Through three cups of flour sift one saltspoon of salt and one teaspoon of baking

L L C . powder . Ice as for emon oaf ake This batter may be used for drop cakes as well .

O R A N G E F R U IT C A KE For three loaves take two cups each of orange marma lade and chopped , steamed prunes or raisins (or instead of two cups of prunes use one cup chopped nuts and one of currants or raisins or prunes) ; three - fourths cup of shortening ; one scant cup of sugar ; three eggs , four cups of flour ; a teaspoon each of salt and nutmeg ; two of

akin i o de r - c l v e b g p w , and a half teaspoon each of O s and cinnamon . Bake slowly till quite done . In three indi vidual loaves it will require about two hours .

O R A N G E L A YER C A KE

Make a simple one - egg cake for the layers and place on them thin slices of oranges before icing with plain boiled icing (see Introductory Recipes) . On the top of the cake

around the edge , may be placed the sections Of the oranges

as a finish to the icing . A custard filling may be sub sti tu te d L C C for the icing (See emon ustard ake) .

O R A N G E MA C A R O O N S Rub lump sugar on orange rind then roll the sugar and add sufficient powdered sugar to make in all one -fourth

. H f pound ave whipped very stif the whites , then add yolks of four eggs and beat in the sugar with the strained juice of the orange and three heaping tablespoons of flour ( ff or more this must be sti enough to roll into little balls) . TH E ORANGE

Di La p the hands in cold water to roll the paste . y the t balls on but ered paper and bake till done . Try them well as they will not brown .

O R A N G E C OO KIES

M L ake according to directions for emon Snaps , sub stit ti u n g orange .

O R A N G E F OO L Add gradually the juice of three large and very sweet oranges to eight thoroughly beaten eg gs , then whip in a half re pint of cream , a little grated nutmeg , and sugar as P quired . lace in a double boiler and let thicken but n ot boil . When thick pour into a heated glass dish and let P cool . lace on ice and when chilled serve with cream .

O R A N G E C US TA R D

M L C NO . 1 s b sti ake the same as Simple emon ustard , u tuting orange rind for lemon .

’ O RA N G E S W ITH C U S TA R D (S O- c alle d S ou ff le )

P eel , halve , core , and slice six oranges , placing a layer in the bottom of a glass dish . Over this sprinkle sugar thickly , then repeat process until all the orange has been

M - used , then let stand for two hours . ake a soft boiled custard of the yolks of three eggs beaten into a pint of b oiling milk and stirred gently until the mixture thickens ,

i . not , however , allowing it to bo l after adding eggs Sugar this to taste and let stand until partially cool , when it should be poured over the fru it . Beat the whites of eggs to a stiff froth with a half- cup Of sugar and pinch Of salt and pile daintily on top . 2 1 8 FRUIT RECI P ES

O R A N G E TA P IOC A O R S A G O M ake a simple , clear tapioca (see Introductory Recipes) sw eetened to taste ; add whipped white of one egg and pour over sliced oranges .

OR A N G E R IC E P UDDI N G

Make as for Lemon Rice Pudding .

OR A N G E S P O N G E

See Lemon Sponge .

OR A N G E G E L A TINE

NO 2 M L . ake as for emon Jelly , using instead of one quart of water a pint each of orange juice and water and the juice of one lemon .

O R A N G E IC E Peel six sweet oranges and steep the rind in a quart of boiling water for twenty minutes . In another vessel cook i into a syrup the ju ce of the oranges and of one lemon , an d Add with a pint and a half of sugar teacup of water . this to the strained liquor from the peel ; stir ; set aside and let cool . When cool add the strained juice of the fruit and freeze . This may be made without the peel , making a simple , strong orangeade and freezing .

O R A N G E S H E R B ET

P roceed as for Orange Ice until the mixture is half- frozen then add the whipped whites of two eggs to each quart of liquid and finish the process .

O R A N G E DE L IGH T

r To the sherbet add g ated or shredded pineapple , can

r - died cher ies , white grapes , nuts chopped fine , fresh grated

2 2 0 FRU IT RECIP ES

n e together into a S yrup . Whe the pe l is ready drain it an d a s ru b oilin e S pl ce in the y p , g g ntly until the yrup thickens and becomes hard (like candy) when dropped into cold At water . this stage lift the chips singly and carefully from the syrup , placing them on oiled paper on trays , to

- drain and dry , setting trays in the sun . In twenty four hours remove the strips to fresh paper but leave trays in the sun until all moisture has evaporated from the peel .

A - m This may take weeks . fruit dryer will facilitate atters

a . if a slow , gentle he t is used The process will be shorter for mandarin and tangerine peel .

- W T O R A G MA R MA L A D o 1 S EE N E E N .

Wash the fruit an d with a knife point ou t the rind through to the pulp lengthwise and around (in the middle) so that the rin d may readily be taken off either in halves Pu t t n d w an d or quarters . his rind (i clu ing yello white) he v in of o a an d ome on t sto e a vessel c ld w ter let c to a boil , Co n t n ho u h e e Cu t n nti uing ill the ri d is t ro g ly t nd r . then i to M a the fin e strips . eantime h ve pulp prepare d b y h alv in e n an d m v e i at g, s edi g , re oving the hea i st rag the core , i Put e on ly then sl cing it . to boil in s parate sau ce pan an d t e r se t ck n cook ill t nde , then ba till ri d is soft an d clear. _ At n d m n d this stage add the pulp to the ri , easuring , a stirring in equal measure of heated sugar . It will take but about twen ty minutes to cook down sufficiently r a thick afte this ; then se l .

S W T OR A G MA R MA L A D 2 EE N E E N O .

C u n is ook the j ice of twe ty oranges till it transparent, then add five pounds of sugar and the grated or very fine minced rind of the oranges . Boil until translu cent and very thick , then seal . Either formula for the marm alade admits of variation TH E ORANGE 2 2 1

by the addition of other fruit . When thick and still hot

apple , pear , pieplant , or fig marmalade or the stewed citron a t melon m y be added in equal quantity , the wo cooked

down together and put up as usual .

S W EE T OR A N G E P R E S E RVE S

P reserves are sometimes made of the halved fru it , with

the rin d . In this case the oranges should be halved and ffi cored su cien tly to remove seeds and the heaviest rag . It is sometimes considere d necessary to le t the fruit remain i r n weak b ine over night , in the mornin g draining , placing

n n d . in fresh water , bri ging to a boil a repeating the process At other times the prepared fruit is at once put on in fresh i water and boiled t ll tender , replacing the water once . When translucent add equal quantity of hot sugar and

s re cook till sufficiently thick . Still another form i to

move entirely the yellow rind , cooking the halved or

quartered fruit till ten der , then adding sugar ; or to prepare

as a compote , placing the prepared fruit in hot syrup and

cooking down till ready to seal . Orange P reserves may be varied as is the marmalade

or by the addition of other citrus fruits , or barberry or

cranberry syrup .

O R A N G E JE L L Y

To five ripe sweet oranges add one tangerine or mandarin , r i with rind and pulp of seventh orange . Slice f u t whole , d o e — co removing seeds as far as possible . A d n half pint ld water and cook until juice and water have simmered down

- w n . H a n w n to one scant half pint , hen strai e t agai and he boiling add heaping half- pint Oi sugar to each scant half pint of juice . 2 2 2 FRUIT RECI P ES

OR A N G E S YR UP

To each pint of sweet , strained , orange juice add one pound of sugar and a little of the grated peel . The peel and juice of one lemon may also be added if desired , to give piquancy . Boil for fifteen minutes , skimming care fully as scum rises , and straining when ready to remove .

Bottle and seal tight . This will keep a long time and is excellent for use in sweet sauces or cold drinks .

C R EA M O F OR A N G E (Ol d R e cipe ) C hop fine two dozen oranges , peel and all , then add three ff quarts spirits of wine ; one fourth ounce tincture of sa ron ,

- flowe r- one gill orange water and six pounds of loaf sugar. Le t t . stand one mon h , when filter and bottle

O R A N G EA D E

For this and other beverages of orange juice see Lemon ’ ade . S W EET O R A N G E W INE M ethods vary in making orange wine , some wines being made with equal parts of orange juice and water and some

i . w th the orange juice alone . In either case three pounds of sugar should be used to each gallon of the liquid . Le t

In ferment a barrel , covering the bung with cloth . When fermentation ceases (from six to eight weeks) rack Off into another barrel , stop bung , and keep in a cool place .

O R A N G E V INE G A R

To orange pulp and juice add water and Florida syrup . Mother ” will form in a few weeks and strong vinegar

. C ar t n result ( over the j with hi cloth , only , while vinegar h is in t e making . )

CH APTE R XVII

T H E C ITR ON B E R G A MO ME B E R R , T , L I Y ,

KU MQ U AT, A N D T R IF OL IATA

- median. H E Citron (C . ) is the heavy weight of the whole C u itr s family , although some varieties are no larger P than certain Shaddocks or omelos . Readers of r ecipes i C somet mes confuse this , the true itron , with the Citron ' Melon (P ie Melon) which is frequently ca-relessly mentioned ” C n o n as the itro without the w rd melo attached , r but it bears not only no elation but merely the slightest , I most superficial resemblance . It is edible (the true Citron) only when cooked—preserved in some form but it then has very great food value . It contains more fru it s f re sh protein than most , or dried , and also riches of carbohydrates and energy .

It is usually candied , or preserved in syrup in bulk u r (halves or q arte s) and used , chopped , in cakes or puddings , but may be varied b y combination of the preserve or by r the u se of the sy up for various purposes .

RECIP ES

TO DR Y W ITH S UGA R

a k Citron is useless in its n tural state . For eeping for home use or market it must b e dried and this should be done just before the fruit reaches maturity : while still green vet well filled out . Quarter it and place in fresh D d a . water a y and a night rain and, replace water several r a m times , then boil for fo ty minutes with little alu and 2 2 4 FRUIT RECIPES

D handful of citron leaves . rain from this and boil in a s mild syrup forty minute longer . At the end of this time add sugar , pound for pound (with weight of citron itself) . mi Let this boil five or six nutes , then remove fruit and Di cook syrup till thicker . p the fruit in it again and boil o as bef re , and once more repeat the process before placing F the citron in the sun to dry . ill the hollow sides with sugar and let fruit remain in the hottest sunshine for as a u many d ys as req ired to dry thoroughly , filling the u hollows every few days with s gar .

C O MMER C IA L C A N DI ED C ITR O N (H e le n H arcourt)

Cu t o the fruit into halves or quarters (acc rding to size) , then pack it in cask or tub of brine , having first cleaned ul out the p p , and leave it for a month ; then renew the salt water and let the citron lie in it for four or five months , or as much longer as y ou choose ; this long process is necessary r to eliminate the bitter p inciple from the rind , which s otherwise it is not pos ible to eliminate entirely . Next boil the fruit in fresh water until a fork will easily pass through s l k i it ; it u ua ly ta es an hour and a half to reach th s point. m Then put it in cold , fresh water , to re ain there for at

- u least twenty fo r hours , when it will have turn ed to that light green colour which we have learned to asso ciate with candied citron . The next step is to drain the fruit , place it in earthen jars , and pour over it hot syrup of white sugar ° at 20 sacch rometer ; cover it entirely and let it stand k for three wee s , but the syrup must be poured off twice w k d an d a eek , boiled , s imme , more sugar a dded each time un til the syrup is a little thicker than it was at first c i boiling ; turn it ba k over the fruit at bo ling point . The three weeks elapsed , put the citron in a v es se l containin g the syrup , with all the sugar it can dissolve ; let it boil for ten minutes ; and then for twenty -four hours keep

2 2 6 FRUIT RECI P ES

The true Bergamot (Citru s bergamia ) is often ' L confounded with the imeberry , also spoken of as i ia ri oliata Tr has t . Bergamot , but in reality the p f The

- true Bergamot is pear shaped ; pale yellow , with green subacid, firm , fragrant pulp , fruit and foliage distinct . The famous Oil known by the name of bergamot is dis f orm e rl c ob tilled from its rind , and v citri acid was also tain e d from it .

Tri hasia tri oliata L The p f , or imeberry (distinct also from the Citru s or Limoniu m f rifoliata) is a gooseberry

- - i like , deep red or wine coloured little fru t about a half inch in diameter . This and the true Bergamot may be preserved and treated in general like the orange , with B w Ru tace . adaptations . oth are of the

a on ica The Kumquat (C . j p ) has greatly come into A favour in merica the past few years , but its comparative scarcity and high price have militated against an intimate acquaintance with its peculiar fascination l K is C with the general pub ic . umquat a hinese word of poetical significance ; meaning Gold Orange . The Japan l Kin ese equivaent is Kan . Its combination of Oriental of spiciness flavour and fragrance is unique in charm , this , e wh ther eaten uncooked or prepared otherwise . The thin skin and suggestion of tartness make it a candidate for honours in fruit salads in its natural form .

T H E KUMQUA T A U N A TU R E L The kumquat is an exceedingly pretty adjunct to fancy dishes of various descriptions or cold drinks . For these purposes it may be served whole or halved or quartered , or , for table decorations , with the leaves not removed . The kumquat may be sliced thin and served in dishes with whipped cream or a meringue , or in tall S lim glasses with sugar and shaved ice . To add wine to this fruit is rather C ON ET C. ITR , 2 2 7

an insult . For a salad few fruits give greater piquancy a th n shaved or quartered kumquats as an accessory , or e r th y may fo m the body of the salad , with a slight addition of celery , banana , pineapple , cherry , pear , or orange , etc . , c As and nuts if one hooses . a garnish , also , the kumquat is picturesque . KUMQUA T P R ES E R VE S Make a heavy syrup of four pints of sugar to one pint of a w ter . When thick and boiling drop into it the kumquats w ( hole or halved) and boil an hour and a half . (Simmering will toughen the rinds . ) Seal at once on removing from

fire or , for immediate use , when cool , serve with cream .

KUMQUA T JE L L Y

In proportion to one dozen kumquats , cut in small

- pieces , use one half pint cold water . Simmer down to one

i R e - fourth pint of ju ce then strain . heat and add a very scant half pint of sugar . (See also other citrus jellies . )

KUMQUA T JA M OR MARMA L ADE

e d The fruit left from jelly may be us d , ad ing no water , and sugar , pound for pound , with a little lemon juice , or the fresh , sliced kumquats , may be used , cooked till ten der , then sugar added , retaining or not the juice , as liked . The fruit may be put through a colander or left in the

C . original slices . ook down to consistency liked

C A N DI ED KUMQUA T

The fruit may be left whole , halved , or quartered , the form deciding the time of cooking . The kumquats may c be candied as for herries , or first cooked till tender , then i placed in a th ck , boiling syrup , for fifteen minutes , an d ss onti placed in the sun to dry , the proce c nued till 2 2 8 FRU IT RECIP ES

ffi n n e w S k su cie tly ca di d , hen sugar may be prin led over them before packing away , though this may be omitted .

F RO ZEN KUMQUA TS

Make a syrup as for ices (see Introductory Recipes) and add to it the sliced kumquats in proportion according

Le . O . t to taste stand till cool , when freeze range , lemon , or lime juice may be added .

The preserve may be frozen , diluted but slightly as it c omes from the jar , or an ice or ice cream or custard made with kumquat syrup .

K UMQUA T G E L A TI NE M ake as for lemon gelatine , using orange or lime juice k mixed , or umquat syrup with a little lemon , adding the sliced fruit .

23 ° FRUIT RECI PES

who is said to have first conveyed it into the West Indies . Under the shaddock comes that variety so long known “ ” in Europe as the Forbidden Fruit . The world in general has had a mistaken fashion of eat ing the pomelo before it is mature and thus many times M has misjudged its flavour . ost varieties do not really ripen and attain full richness and sweetness until March on Ma i at the earliest and from then , through v and nto

June , are at their best . While the grape - fruit and lime do not contain so great n a percentage of citric acid as does the lemo , yet both have goodly share and like all juicy citrus fruits are antiscorbutic , while in the pomelo there is in addition , though in lesser degree , the same bitter tonic quality possessed by cinchona . The grape- fruit should oftener be eaten in its natural state w ithout wine or sugar , either or both of which , though making it very delicious , perhaps detract from the fullest

- value of the pomelo . ' h s tmx acida The lime (C . y ) elicits almost equally great e prais from other humans , the acid varieties as the basis i “ L " of cool ng , wholesome drinks , and the Sweet ime “ ” Lima da lei/ s M in the of exico , some of the more southern A of merican countries , as a rival of the sweet orange .

The tangelo , a cross between the tangerine and pomelo , i is the name by wh ch a new group of citrus fruits is called , a group which so far includes but the Nocatee and the k Sampson tangelo . Its s in is rather thin and readily removed ; its flavour lacking the extreme bitterness , acidity , and sweetness of its parents , yet pronounced in individual flavour . With man y people it will take the

place of the pomelo as a favourite breakfast fruit , partly because of its more convenient size . The Citrange is still a newer member of the citrus family and also a hybrid , this one the result of the crossing of OTH ER CITRUS FRUITS 2 3 I

the common orange with the trifoliate orange , the two varieties thus f ar in existence (the Rusk and the Willits) “ " - being reciprocal hybrids . The Willits citrange is more tart , more nearly resembles the lemon than does the

Rusk , but both varieties are excellent as citrangeade and for general purposes of cookery may be treated as are the

- orange , lemon and grape fruit , with the necessary adapta tions .

i oli ta C . tr a The trifoliate orange ( f ) is the hardy , dwarf ,

Japanese stock formerly so much used for budding on to . It is thorny and bears a small yellow fruit not over two inches in diameter which is ornamental and aromatic but “ ” l useless , with its bitter , gummy pu p , thick rind and many seeds , for eating .

RECIP E S

G R A P E F R UIT F OR B R EA K F A S T At night halve the fruit across , then with thin , sharp knife remove upper part of core and seeds . In the hollow thus made place a tablespoonful of sugar and set in co ol spot till morning . Serve without further preparation ,

- but with sharp pointed spoons .

G R A P E F R UIT F O R L UN C H EO N “ f or Prepare in same manner as Breakfast , letting stand but six hours , however , and on ice , and adding tablespoonful of sherry to the sugar in each half of the Or pomelo . the pulp may be entirely removed from the shell and skin and served in the clean shells with just a little sugar , or in sherbet glasses or in individual g lass dishes set in outer cups or bowls containing shaved ice . If served on the dishes the sections may be left whole ; if in glasses the pulp shredded . There are many ways of 2 3 2 FRUIT RECI P ES

A t varying this . nother method more sui able for a dessert or other than introductory course is the following

P I N K P O ME L O P Y R A MID

Shred from the pulp every vestige of White rag and break n t sections into bits not over half an inch in le g h . Serve in tall slim glasses with a meringue of stiff- whipped white A i of egg and sugar and bits of angelica . little shaved ce may be placed with the fruit . The combination of pink , f l . white , ye low , and pale green gives a pretty e fect Where the pink pomelos or S h add OCkS cannot be secured a few drops of cochineal may be added to the fruit and sugar b and let stand an hour or m re , or the cochineal may be used merely on the bits of ice , or in the meringue .

P O ME L O W ITH G R A P E S

A pretty addition is made by filling the core- hollow hi first with a little sugar and sherry , then with w te grapes r (halved and seeded) , or candied cher ies , angelica (cut fine) , and shredded pineapple . Where these fruits are combined the colour eff ect is charming : the red of the cherries ; the W green of the angelica , with the hite and yellow.

GRA P E F R UIT A N D C L A MS

P e L - N - lac four or five ittle eck clams in the core hollow, i e i pour ng over them a sauce made of hors rad sh , tomato t al d ca sup , s t , and a dash of tabasco , blen ed to taste .

G R A P E F R UIT C O C KTA IL

To four tablespoons of grape- fruit juice add one table ” — spoon each of simple sugar syrup , brandy , and maraschino , Pour these on to a glassful of shaved ice and when well mixed place in the glass from which the cocktail is to be

2 3 4 FRUIT RECI P ES

G ENER A L R EMA R KS O N P O MEL O MA R MA L A DE Many people soak the rind in salt and water over night or longer before bringing to a boil but it seems proven by n experience to be unnecessary trouble . O the other hand some housekeepers do not soak the rind at all but prefer to have the whole fruit sliced across , rind and all , removing only seeds , and then cooking till tender , changing the water perhaps once . By the latter method a trace of the bitter principle remains , as with the Seville orange peel , when it is preferred . G R A P E F R UIT JEL L Y Proceed as for marmalade until fruit is soft and trans off lucent , then strain the juice ; heat it again to boiling

i n point ; boil down for five m nutes or until thick , the add hot sugar , a pint and a half to each pint of juice . This i should jell within ten m nutes .

G RA P F R IT L L o 2 E U JE Y N .

n Soak rind over ight in brine . In morning place in fresh water , replacing until all bitterness is removed.

- off w Slice the fruit pulp , after cutting ith sharp knife the white tissue , and place with rind in jelly kettle . In proportion to one grape - fruit use one quart of cold water

- i and cook down to one third pint of juice . Stra n and add sugar in proportion of a little more than measure for measure .

G R A P E F R UIT DR O P S (A C o n fe ction ) M No . 2 ake as for Jelly , using fruit not yet matured and when strained adding to the juice twice as much sugar .

Stir until it begins to grain , when drop on sheets of buttered paper . This may be kept in jars for flav ou rin g

- or for grape fruitade . OTH ER CITRUS FRUITS 2 3 5

G RA P E F R U IT P R E S ER VE

Remove outer , yellow rind and most of the white by H peeling very thick . alve the fruit and with sharp knife core and seed it . Then slice across and place pulp in granite vessel with very little water and cook at moderately quick

- heat . When at boiling point add three fourths pint of

. slowl sugar to each pint of fruit pulp and juice , then cook v

'

fifteen minutes . This may be used at the moment as a luncheon or supper dish or sealed in jars .

G R A P E F R U IT IC E

Make the same as lemon or orange - ice ; a rather “ — i . strong , sweet , grape fruitade w th the pomelos alone or adding to each quart the juice of one lemon or two oranges (or both) .

G R A P E F R UIT S H ER B ET

Take the juice of six pomelos , four cups of sugar , and a pint of water . Soak a tablespoon of gelatine in part of the water until dissolved , then bring to a boil with the

r . water and f uit juice When cool , freeze partially ; add whipped whites of two eggs and finish freezing .

F R O ZEN P O ME L O

Make as for Frozen Oranges , using more sugar and some orange juice . G R A P E F R UIT W INE

Make as for Seville Orange Wine .

P O ME L O S YR U P

This may be made from the pulp of the fru it alone or i u with the rind , us ng about one quart of water to each q art i of sliced fruit (rind and all) . If the r nd is used the syrup 2 3 6 FRUIT RECI P E S

s th e will be bitter but will thu contain more of tonic quality.

The fruit must be simmered and strained , after adding sugar (about one pin t to each quart of liquid) . This may be used with shaved ice for summer drinks or with

e c . gelatine , t

P O MEL O A N D L IMEA DE

U se these fruit juices separately or in combination , add ing carbonated water and sugar as liked .

P OME L O R I NDS I N B R I NE F O R P R ES ER VIN G P Alwavs keep these for future use . lace in brine as for

L . lemon rinds . See the emon

P OMEL O S TR IP S C A NDIED The rind of the pomelo has a most attractive and dis tin ctiv e flavour when candied . First cut and place in salt and fresh water till sufficient of the bitterness is with w O dra n (not all of it) , then proceed as for range Chips .

TH E LIME

L IME JUIC E F R E S H A N D IN S YR U P

Fresh lime juice with water alone is preferred b v many people to that of any other citrus fruit . It Is thirst quenching and a mild tonic . When a dash of calisaya is f added the tonic ef ect is of course more pronounced . Lime juice may be added to lemonade or orangeade with a most an ff L pleas t aromatic e ect (see the emon) . To preserve u n w e the juice of fresh limes s eet ned , care must b e used . ° i I 0 Squeeze the limes and heat the ju ce to 5 F . ; neither u w below this nor above or the flavo r ill be ruined . Filter while hot through some standard filtering medium k and it should eep in good condition a year . The juice may w m also be preserved ith sugar as for le on and orange syrups.

CH APTER XIX

L E Or T H E P I N EA P P a an an as : Nat . (A n c m s d . B rome liacece )

UTS IDE of the citrus fruits none is to be found which i l is more ent rely beneficia to the human system , more simple and direct in wholesome eff ect than the pine

hen in er ect con dition : t apple w p f not the s unted , woody specimen s too often sold as pineapple . It has not so much nutritive value as some other fruits but is rich in mineral and h salts these , with the water w ich forms so large a per

- — centage of pine pulp , and the fruit sugar , purify the system and soothe the stomach . The active principle of the fruit , an an asin e , may be very properly considered a vegetable counterpart of the gastric juice since , as discovered by

n V . M Se or arcano , the juice of the ordinary pineapple possesses the “ power of digesting proteid vegetable and ”

l . C anima substances hittenden , who , with others , fol lowed up the investigations , found , in addition , that this

“ ' digestant is active with either acids o r alkaline ” “ carbonates and that the ferment , to which the name ‘ ’ i bromelin has been g ven , is more nearly related to trypsin i than to pepsin . The s mple fact that pineapple juice will ,

for instance , digest beef , is very interesting to even the

simplest understanding .

The juice is extremely healing in catarrhal aff ections ; and physicians recommend its use as a gargle for ordinary

sore throats and even for diphtheria . For the greatest benefit to be secured the pineapple is of course best in sim le st p form , uncooked , but when eaten as often as fruit 2 3 8 TH E P INEAP PLE 2 3 9 s hou ld b e eaten , sameness sometimes palls with even the most delicious of foods and of this there is no n e ce ssitv as there are many tempting ways of preparing and serving the pineapple .

TO P R O P E R L Y P A R E A N D TH US P R E P A R E

An almost invariable mistake is made by Northerners in the peeling of this fruit whole and the attempt to remove the eyes with the peel . The pineapple shou ld first be

sliced across , rind and all , according to the thickness de

sired , then each slice taken in turn , in the left hand , held

' with the rind toward one an d pare d with the right hand by means of a slim , sharp knife , inserting point and peeling

downward , toward one , close to the rind . The eyes mav now (left exposed without the hard skin) be easily and quickly removed with none of the usual awkward hacking

and loss of juice attendant upon the ordinary method .

A S A S IMP L E B R EA KF A S T O R L UN C H EO N DIS H

si Serve the pineapple in either the mple slices , one for

- i each fruit plate , w th or without sugar , as the pine may : require , or as follows Take a fully mature , juicy , small , wis t o ff o ff t . unpeeled pine , cut the stem and the top or crown In the pitted space now exposed drive two slender but stout wooden skewers straight down through the apple until the P points appear at the stem end . ull the skewers through in the pine , outward , thus dividing it half , and then again

i . div de , so that the fruit lies in quarters This can be done

ow with little loss of juice . N tie the quarters together re — th e u with a narrow ribbon , insert crown and place p right on the fruit dish from which it is to be served . Serve by untying the ribbon and placing the quarters on fruit

- i plates . The ordinary small , sharp , silver fruit knife w ll dismember the tiny sections of rind so that these little

2 42 FRU IT RECI P ES

d grated pineapple . Stand in a col place for half a day

before serving . r O a more simple batter may be made and baked in layers , the filling to be made of o n e pint whipped cream and one

cup grated pineapple sweetened to taste .

P I NEA P P L E AN D TA P IOC A P UDDI N G

- To a half cup of tapioca , prepared with a quart of milk or water (see Introductory Recipes) allow one pint of diced n or grated pineapple , pouring it in when the puddi g has partly cooled .

P INEA P P L E P UDDI N G OR P IE F IL L IN G

Slice , pare , and chop a pineapple , which if not thoroughly tender and sweet should stand an hour with sugar liberally

A r - sprinkled over it . rrange in a butte ed pudding dish

S lices of bread , over which pour the juice from the apple and sugar . Beat the yolks of three eggs with half a cup of white s which sugar , adding last the , should have been beaten A separately . ( tablespoon of white wine and half a cup of P chopped almonds will improve this . ) our over the juice soaked slices and bake . The pudding minus the bread may —fi li be used as pie l n g.

C O MP OTE O F P I NEA P P L E

D - - issolve one half box of gelatine in one half cup of water . Make a syrup of one cup of water and one- half cup of sugar in which , while hot , mix thoroughly one (whole) shredded pineapple . When at boiling point remove and when slightly cooler add the gelatine , pour into mould , cool , then place on ice . P INEA P P L E S P O N G E

Grate one small pine (or use one - half pint can of preserved

- fruit) , add two thirds cup of sugar and one - half cup of TH E P INEAPPLE 2 43 water ; place on stove and let simmer: Meantime have re ady one-half package of gelatine which should have bee n in on e dissolving for half an hour cup of water. When the pine has simmered for ten minutes add the gelatine ; strain into a mould and let cool for half an hour . Now add the stiff-beaten whites of three eggs and a little lemon juice ; place mould in outer dish of ice-water and beat th e mixture until it thickens somewhat , when set on ice to harden . It should be remembered that when gelatine is u se d with pineapple the resulting co ncoction must be chilled as soon as possible and u sed not later than two hours after making on account of the chemical action of the peculiar elements of this fruit on the gelatine . A variation of the above is found in the recipe below.

P INEA P P L E MOUS S E

Place in a saucepan with one cup grated pineapple , half - h and e f r a cup of sugar , one fourt cup of water , simm r o five Add minutes . juice of half a lemon ; take from fire ; cool , stir in one cup of whipped cream or one- fourth cup gelatine

- k (dissolved in one fourth cup of water) , pac the mould

let . round about with ice , and stand two hours

P INEA P P L E IC E

For one can grated pin eapple or one pint fresh fruit use e one pint each of sugar and water and juic of one lemon .

i Or . Mx and freeze . see Introductory Recipes

P IN EA P P L E S H ER B E T See Introductory Recipes or use the following : To one quart of boiling water add one and one-fourth C s pounds of sugar and juice of two lemons . ook thi for two five minutes. Take from the fire and add large 2 44 FRU IT RECI P E S

i e . pin apples grated , or one quart can of grated pneapple i s . Strain through a cloth , pre s ng hard to get out all the juice

Then freeze partially , when add beaten whites of two eggs and complete the freezing.

P INEA P P L E IC E C R EA M

M . M ake as in Introductory Rec—ipes and let cool eantime have ready grated pineapple one pint to each quart of Le t it cream and milk . stand in a little sugar and lemon or P orange juice . artially freeze the cream before adding fruit , then , stir it in and finish the process . The reserved pineapple syrup may be substituted for the fruit . In this case a little dissolved gelatine may be used .

F R O ZEN P INEA P P L E C US TA R D

Add to a quart of milk a tea~ cup of sugar and bring to a

- boil . Add four well beaten eggs and let the mixture w e thicken , atching car fully , however , that the mixture does

n . Let not agai boil this cool , then add one pint of pine apple or r n d juice one pint of g ated pineapple a freeze . A little m u b t le on j ice added will ring out he fruit flavour .

F R O ZEN P INEA P P L E Gr ate or chop fine one quart of pineapple , adding sugar in proportion of one cup to one quart of fruit , if tart ; if Or sweet , less . , the grated pineapple may have syrup added to it instead of the sugar . The white of egg or other fruits make variation , also .

P I A P P L o I NE E JE L LY N .

D e in issolve one packag of gelatine a pint of cold water, gradually heating it through on the stove . When at boiling and take point add one cup of sugar off to cool . When the

2 46 FRU IT R ECIP ES

as much depends upon quality of fruit . If extremely juicy some of the liquor should be strained from the fruit before cooking .

P R ES E R VED P INEA P P L E (S lice d an d C ooke d )

u In n C t slices , then pare the fruit , placing alter ate layers of pineapple and sugar (pound for pound) in pre

- serving kettle . To each pound of fruit add one half cup i w e r ou rin in at . of , p g this after fruit is placed with sugar H eat to boiling point , then take out the slices and spread M in the sun on dishes . eantime gently boil the syrup for A forty minutes . t the end of t his time place pineapple an d again in kettle cook all together for twenty minutes .

Then remove the fruit , placing it in jars and pouring on it the boiling syrup . Seal at once .

P R E S ER VED P INEA P P L E (Un c ooke d an d Grate d) N In the orth , where the climate is less trying to preserved r f uits than in the extreme South , pineapple may be grated or and preserved uncooked for culinary medicinal use . Use one pound of sugar to each pound of grated fruit and let stand twelve hours in covered jar in a cold place , if a possible , on ice . Then pl ce in jars which (with tops and As bands) have been thoroughly sterilised . an additional safegu ard the tops may be dipped in sealing wax or par affine . C A NNED P INEAP P L E (W ith ou t S u gar)

o Slice , pare , and heat thoroughly the ripe pineapples t be canned . When boiling remove and place immediately in sealed jars .

C A NNED P INEA P P L E (W ith S u gar)

Use three - fourths pound of sugar to each pound of shredded fruit and to each pint of sugar one teacup of

. H water eat through and when boiling , can . TH E PINEAP PLE 247

P INEA P P L E C H IP S

s d d The pine should be slice thin and pared , place on dishes , and covered thickly with powdered sugar . For ten days these dishes must be kept in a slow oven or other heated

d . place , and the slices turned each ay At the expiration of this time place the slice s in a quick oven for just ten l minutes , then remove , coo , and place between layers of paper with powdered sugar sifted over the fruit .

P IN E A P P L E A DE

with r Boil the parings of pineapple (or the chopped f uit) , Add and allow the liquid to cool . juice of lemon or limes a n d sweeten to taste .

P I A P P L L MO O R L IM A D NE E , E N E E For each glass to be served take one tablespoon each of

" - pineapple and lemon or lime juice , and a half teaspoon

- t . F of grated orange peel Sugar to tas e . ill up the glass with hot or iced water . P INEA P P L E S YR U P

s a . P Slice , pare , and dice three pound of pine pple lace in preserving kettle , add one quart of water and one C e pound of su gar . ook till v ry soft , when the fruit should be mashed and strained . Replace in kettle and to each pint of juice add one pound of sugar and cook to a rich h ot t syrup . Bottle when and cork tigh ly and it will be ready for use at any time for sauces or drinks .

P INEA P P L E P UN C H

r Grate one fresh pine or use a quart can of the prese ved , grated apple , or chop fine one can of the sliced pineapple . Add to this at least one quart syrup from any preferred fruit , preserved or fresh (as canned raspberries , cherries , 2 48 FRUIT R ECI P ES

fresh strawberries , or oranges , also a half dozen each of lemons and oranges , unless the latter have been Used with

i r - r i the pineapple , when substitute l me or g ape f uit n suf

ficie n t . proportion The citrus fruit juice prepare d . may be squeezed out and the pulp allowed to remain in the fruit or may be sliced across very thin . Over this pour a hot syrup made as for ices (see Introductory Recipes) and let stand about three hours when strain and add a half gallon of ice water and shaved ice . (The preserved fruit added need not be strained out or , if preferred , o fresh , diced , r sliced fruit may be substituted . )

P INEA P P L E C H A MP A G NE

For this the parings alon e may be used or in conjunction with the chopped fruit , allowing to and pouring over the A parings of one small pine a pint of boiling water . fter an letting it steep till cold sweeten to taste , then strain d

y . bottle , fastening corks ver tight If kept in warm place (bottles on the side) it S hould be ready in twenty -four h e hours . When ripe cool t bottles in ice water .

P INEA P P L E B EE R

This , while similar , is more simple than the champagne . ' The parin gs mu st stand in a covered crock for three days At covered with cold water and sweetened to taste . the u e end of this time the beer is ready to strain and s .

P I NEA P P L E VI NE GA R Pineapple parings should never be thrown away as there is no finer vinegar in the world in flavour and colour than that made from pineapples . The fruit parings (fruit may also be added) S hould be placed in cro oks and covered with t wa er , sugar or syrup being added in quantity according to

CHAPTER XX

T H E B A N A N A u a Na ; rd Musacece M s t O . , ( , )

- ERH APS no form of plant life , with the exception of

the palm , is more typically tropical in appearance than the Mu sa (including both plantain and banana) ; none is m ere widely cultivated through the variations of the warmer climates , and nothing has ever been found in the vegetable kingdom which could with such entire satis faction o r in so wholesale a manner take its place in the e countries where it grows . The nam s of the plantain disiaca M. ara type of the p , and a variety of

ie rttu m M. r a it , p , or horse banana , indicate the esteem — “ in which this fruit- food is held its honour in its own country . The former was so called by the early oriental C f hristians , it is said , who , venturing boldly to di fer from i those idealists mentioned in connect on with other fruits , betrayed a certain materialistic tendency in imagining the banana to have been the cause of the dissension in the original garden . If it was there was indeed irony in the wisdom of the serpent ’ s choice (or must we credit him with kindly as the plantain provides not only food and drink for man and beast but shelter , since the n large leaves make an excelle t thatch , and also , we are ” “ told , readily furnish table covers and parasols " S ap ” “ ” ien tu m m e n means of the wise , in allusion to the choice of the banana as food b y the wise men of India- this ac cording to Theophrastus .

- The banana is certainly , with many hot country

’ “ f is peoples , the sta f of life It perhaps the best of all TH E BANANA 2 5 1 starch-foods and healthful when eaten with an under ’ standing o f the fruit s very substantial and sustaining nature . From its composition and wholesome qualities like n e ss is a directly traceable to wheat bread . The n on rish ment to be derived from the banana is ve ry great and it has been stated that “ one pound of bananas is equal to " three pounds of meat in nutriment , which , however , should be considered conditionally or relatively . Lean c beef , for instance , contains chiefly protein (no arb ohy d rate s ) while bananas are essentially a starchy food , con taining an exceedingly small per cent . of protein and made up almost entirely of the carbohydrates . With children the banana should be cut into bits or

m ash e d . n ot , merely because of the danger of choking on the larger , solid , slippery pieces so often mistakenly given them , but because , as with adults , it is usually not suf ficie n tl y masticated , gives trouble in the process of dis integration and so is considered indigestible : the difficulty being plainly with the people and not with the banana . i C a en d shi C M. ri t M. v O en am (The , or avendish , and , or ’ H C L F or art s hoice , or ady inger , are the most delicate f eating uncooked) . The luxuriance of the banana plant is typified in the long and broad rich leaves of soft , satiny texture , (though i firm and somewhat velvety in the earl er stages) . But ’ these elongated , vegetable , elephant s ears soon have their u smooth surface dist rbed , for the wind , brushing their

fin e- helpless delicate weight , quickly tears them into frayed ribbons . These , when first unfolding , have their tender , pea- green breadths cut up for cooking like vegetables among some of the tropical peoples . The banana blossom is one of the most beautiful creations

- of nature . It consists of fold after fold of close sheathed ,

- c shell like leaves , under each of whi h a circle of embryo 2 5 2 FRUIT RECIP ES

h bananas lies . These leaves , the lining of w ich is of a deep , delicate maroon , and the outside of dusty , silvery gray richness , rise slowly up and back as the little bananas grow , protecting them from too great degree of sun or an d dampness , finally curling withering as the stem lengthens and the bananas , filling out gradually , need no longer their care . RECIP ES

IC ED B A N A N A S O UP

Ma a m sh four banan s ; pass the through a sieve ; measure , then add twice this quantity of cold milk , sugar to taste ,

an e . l c a pinch of salt , and the grated rind of orang P a e on stove an d when at boiling point add two teaspoons of corn m r . C sta ch ook five inutes ; remove and cool , then place o w on ice . Serve in bouill n bo ls , adding to each a few de the creme men or maraschino cherries.

B A N A N A S A L A D

n n s m a e Ba a a y be slic d , diced or crushed , to b e served w t fin e - n e s on i h sliced ora ge , or diced appl and nut , the P s tenderest lettuce . ineapple or cherrie may be added . U se th e cream or liqu eu r-fl av ou red dressings given in

Introductory Recipes .

B A N A N A O ME L E T

e e B at three ggs separately , adding whites last , with a -cu half p of sugar and breadcrumbs , a pinch of salt , and the pulp of three bananas . Into this stir the stiff whites and cook in omelet pan .

B A KE D B AN A NA S

The banana may be baked whole , one side of the skin n h bei g stripped back in t is case , or it may be peeled and

2 54 FRUIT RECIPES

B A NA NA F RITTE RS (C ru sh e d) OR P A N CA KE S Crush pulp of six bananas and to this add the beaten yolks of two eggs , a little salt , a tablespoon each of butter and on e C u sugar , and a half ups of flo r , and small teaspoon of - Add baking powder. beaten whites of eggs last and drop from spoon into fryin g kettle . Serve as above . For n pancakes make a thin er batter , putting fruit through sieve and cook as for the regular pancake .

B A N A NA P IE

M t 0 1. h ash or gra e a banana , add yolks t ree eggs , two tablespoons of sugar and thre e- fourths pint of milk in e Le which h as be n dissolved a tablespoon of cornstarch . t

- e cook in double boiler till thick , then plac in a pastry er shell just baked . Spread over the top a m ingue made with the whites of the eggs and half- cup of sugar ; set in the oven and let brown before serving.

B A NA N A C U P C A KE

On e cup of sugar , three of flour , one and a fourth cups

two kin - of banana pulp , and te aspoons of ba g powder. e Grate orange or lemon peel over the top and bak .

B A NA NA A N D N UT L OA F (F or Te a C ake or P uddin g)

To one cup crushed b anana pulp add one cup each of chopped nuts , grated cocoanut , oatflake s and cracker

r - or breadc umbs , and one half cup sugar . Into this sprinkle o i - e on e two teasp ons each of butter and bak ng powd r , of salt , f n k and su ficient flour to bi d together in thic batter . Bake - fiv e in moderate oven forty minutes.

B AN A NA L A YER C A KE

An y simple cake batter may be used for the body of the cake (see Introductory Recipes) . The filling may be made in any of these way s TH E BANANA 2 5 5

o I . N . Spread sliced bananas over the layers and on t e h banana place lemon or apple j elly . N o . 2 . Instead of the jelly substitute a plain icing .

N . o 3 . Substitute whipped cream for the jelly . No . 4 . The pulp of six bananas may be beaten up with a pint of whipped cream or the stiff- whipped whites of two

or three eggs and a little sugar . The cream or egg may

also be used on top of the cakes .

B A NA N A N U T S TR I P S To two cups of mashed banana pulp add one cup each of

oatflake s - , flour , chopped nuts , and sugar with a half cup of

shortening and saltspoon of salt (or more) . Roll out a

quarter of an inch thick and cut in strips . Bake in brisk

OVCII . B A NA N A S H O R TC A KE Between the layers of a simple but sweetened biscuit

dough pour , just before serving , the crushed pulp of six bananas into which has been stirred juice of one Orange

(or other. slightly tart fruit) , half a cup of sugar and th e w hipped white of an egg or cup of whipped cream .

TH E S IMP L E S T B A N A NA DES S ER T

To eight sliced bananas add one cup of sugar , the juice of one lemon , and serve with shaved ice in tall glasses or dainty dishes , adding a teaspoonful of whipped cream A or white of egg to top o ff each one . little white wine may be added if desired , or a sprinkling of chopped nuts .

B A N A NA B L A N C MA N G E

- T o one quart boiling milk add one half cup of sugar , a pinch of salt , and three tablespoons of cornstarch dissolved

- in one half cup of cold water . When it thickens stir in 2 5 6 FRU IT RECIP ES the pulp of thre e large bananas and the stiff- beaten white ' ith thi . w n of an egg . Set away to cool in a mould Serve a custard s uce .

W H IP ? E D B ANA NA S

To of fiv e n o , the pulp ba anas add the , juice of two ranges , on a “t the grated rin d of e , ablespoon of sugar , a pinch of ‘

- salt , and one fourth box gelatine dissolved in a little

e . d cold water . Chopp d nuts or candie cherries may co ed on be stirred carefully in . When ol ice beat in lightly a pint of whipped cream or whites of two eggs and place in mould .

L ITTL E S O UF FL ES

Stir juice of two lemons or other tart fruit into the mashed Add nt pulp of six bananas and rub through sieve . one pi of whipped cream , or whipped white egg and cream mixed , an d b ak r sk e at o n ce or r z cr m as e . e b i ly , s rving , f ee e ice a

R r t f u ma - b e d e aspbe ry or o her lavo ring v a d d if liked .

B A N ANA TOA S T

La i t e d ere in y sl ces of banana be ween thin br a , butt d ,

- baking pan and place in hot oven till lightly browned .

Serve immediately . Or make Banana P udding Sauce w nt m a e oo e h bu ith one pi ilk , t bl sp n ac tter , cornstarch ' and s r of a and u l uga , pinch s lt , p p of four ban anas stirre d in u b e s w en j st fore erving, h pour th e whole over slices of n a thi , crisp to st .

B A NA NA P U DDIN G

Mash six ban an as an d - add one tablespoon cornstarch in “ c rubbed smooth half a cup of old milk . Add a half cup of su gar and a pinch of salt and p lace a layer of this in

‘ t m a - O bot o of b king dish . ver this sprinkle crisp bread or

TH E BANANA 2 5 7

-c w t cracker rumbs mixed i h one cup chopped peanuts . Re e e n h o o e . p at the alt r ation of layers , aving tw f ach On t ap sprinkle sugar an d bake fo rty minutes in mo de rate oven . (Sauce : see above . )

B A NA NA IC E AN D S H E RB E T

M k ru c o a e sy p as in Introdu t ry Recipes , adding crushed bananas to taste .

B A NA NA IC E C R EA M

To the s u s ix C u s a cru hed p lp of bananas add one p ug r ,

- l o an d ar . an d one ha f teaspo n salt , one qu t milk cream i M e l d e ze . mixed . x w l an fr e

F R O ZEN B A NA NA S

Add to one dozen crushed banan as the juice of two

oranges and a pint of sugar . Freez e partially , then add two the whipped whites of eggs and finish freezing.

F RO ZEN B A NA NA C US TA R D

. To th e regular custard for freez ing (see I ntroductory Recipes) add the crushed pulp of four or five bananas and

e . pinch of salt . Fr eze

B A N A NA MA R MA L A DE

Make a syrup of two cups of sugar to one of water and

cook till it strings from the spoon . Stir into it then the cru shed o r cubed pulp of f our bananas an d cook slowly ti A (wh ere the re is no danger of burning) un l thick . ( bout it on o f fe on fi e n i e . e fte m nut s) The add i m , currant , or oth r tart fruit juice relieves the int e nse swe etne ss b ut do es not

detract from the b anana flavou r . 2 58 FRUIT RECIP ES

B A N A NA JE L L Y Make a plain gelatine (see Introductory Recipes) with a decidedly tart flavour and add cubed or crushed bananas in quantity liked .

MU B IS I S A fric n n f rm n t d B an an a W in e ( . a U e e e ) “ " P . W . H m h r W h at to E at u p e y s , ( ) A big hole is dug in the ground , lined by banana leaves , i a a filled with unr pe b nan s , and kept covered by mats and earth until the fruit has become completely ripe . Then

b ‘ u the bananas are slit , mixed with fine ay , a d placed in a

- large , boat like , wooden trough which at one end has an A som e wate r th e h ole emptying pipe . fter the addition of w is thoroughly mixed by the hand or by short wooden sticks . Thereupon the trough is covered with banana leaves and the mixture is left standing for about one or two hours . After the expiration of that time it is taken out and through is grass sieves poured into large calabashes . It then ready i x for use and represents a sweet , agreeable and not n to i cating beverage .

M m n t i U E N G E F e r d H . ( e e W n e ) P . W .

If the m u b isi is left standing for three days it under a goes fermentation and becomes a slightly acid , refreshing is beverage which strongly intoxicating . If it is filled into bottles and they are kept well corked at a cool place for several months one obtains a sparkling wine strongly resembling champagne .

B A A A B R P W . H N N EE , . .

If a larger or smaller quantity of millet (b oiled) is added to it and the mixture is left standing in large earthen pots for two or three days and stirred from time to time , it h becomes a beer whic , according to the quantity of millet

added , is more or less intoxicating .

CH APTER XXI

TH E F IG (Moraceae)

H E cu s carica Fi , or common fig , is but one of more than a hundred species of a most interesting fruit which r from the earliest of ancient times has , in its varying fo ms , been accorded not only a place of importance but honour and reverence . Biblical records mention the fig as clothing , d food , and medicine , and , regar ing the first , were foliage available for modern costumes the fig tree would be en hanced in value because of the infinite variety of its leaf patterns ; two leaves , even on the same tree , seldom being found exactly alike . c o u s The Egyptian Sycamore (F . sy am r ) which is sup posed to be the sycamore of the Scriptures , the Banyan l t I n dica F . e as ica Caou t (F . ) , the India Rubber tree ( ) , or P I li io a : F . re s chouc , and the renowned eepul Tree of ndia ( g the B 0 Tree of Ceylon) are among the many species of the C fig , and the oldest tree in the world is a eylon Bo Tree whose age is estimated by historical records to be over two thousand years . The H indus venerate the Sacred Fig because Vish nu is said to have been born under it and the Buddhists because under one of them they believe Gotama Buddha reclined at Uru we lay a when he underwent his ” apotheosis . Colder countries are not strangers to the fig for it is cultivated many degrees north of the frost line in E A both urope and merica though , as in France and

E - ngland , winter protection is a necessity . Either green or dried figs are excellent food and as a whole the fruit has no superior in healthfulness . Its large

260 TH E FIG 2 61

’ amount of su gar is nourishing and being one of nature s best laxatives , pleasant to the taste , mild yet positive in f — ef ect , it may be given more freely with greater safety in quantity—to many more people (from children to i those most advanced in years) than decidedly ac d fruits . Figs are also considered good for the kidneys and because of their demulcent property are sometimes given in pulmonary E troubles . xternally applied they are considered very H healing (as in the day s of ezekiah) and so , roasted gently or boiled , the inner part is not infrequently used as a poul M tice . It is said that among the alays the juice of one i icar a . F . tox species of fig , the , is used for poisoning arrows With some figs the milk is very mild but with many others is acrid though not harmful as with the toxicaria . It was without doubt this very common , temporary stinging sen sation which gave rise to the custom of eating fresh figs as below . Wherever this fruit grows every effort should be made to put by a goodly store for future use for , perhaps , in addition to its wholesome qualities there is no fruit which dried , or preserved by some method of cooking , so retains or so transforms its Charms into equal attractiveness . It is r almost Unique in being as ag eeable dried as in its original , fresh juiciness and its saccharine quality is greater.

RECI P E S

TO E A T F R ES H F IG S When figs are served at the table uncooked hold them r by the stem and with a small knife cut the f uit across twice , at right angles , downward as far as the stem . Thus d quartered the pulp will open and hang sligh. tly outwar but will not become en tirely detached . Then with the knife separate the pulp from the skin , gently scraping it 2 62 FRU IT RECI P ES

- toward one , from the centre , or stem heart , downward . By this method one secures the entire pulp without the skin and in convenient bits for eating .

S TEW ED F I GS f Figs may be stewed in three di ferent ways , if the dried fruit is used :

1 r No . . Wash figs and place in cold water ove

. N night , using a pint of water to a pound of figs ext morning bring the figs (in same water) slowly to a boil and when tender add half the quantity of sugar that there is juice , cooking down till the syrup is thick . Serve cold with cream .

No . 2 . Steam the figs till soft , then place them in boiling syrup for a moment , setting them back where they will not even simmer , for twenty minutes or more , when remove the figs , cook down syrup till thick and pour it over the fruit .

No . . 3 Wash and cover the figs with wine , letting stand over night . Then barely simmer till tender , treating the syrup as above . Fresh figs require simply simmering a few moments in very little water before adding sugar , when let a syrup

. P form before removing ineapple , ginger , lemon , rhubarb , or other fruits may be used to flavour .

B A KE D F IG S P lace fresh figs in a small crock or earthenware dish , with

a little sugar and lemon juice or that of. other fruit . Cover

and bake slowly and no water will be required .

TO F R E S H EN F I G S

Place dried figs in an enamelled colander and steam until soft and filled out in appearance . Remove and prepare

2 64 FRU IT RECI PE S

F I G L A YE R C AK E

Use any of the plain foundation cake b atters (see Intro l ductory Recipes) an d bake in layers . For fi ling use the “ ” real fig jelly , or the filling given next below or Fig Snow .

F IG F IL L IN G OR JE L L Y F O R C A KE

Chop or shred o n e pound of figs an d boil until tender In

- A d an d ff f u o f o . d one co ee cup l water , in d uble boiler one

- one half cups of sugar and one teaspoon of vanilla . Boil down until smooth and thick . Spread while warm .

F IG S N OW F OR F IL L IN G

Mix d fig pulp (fresh or steamed , or stewed) with whippe cream or meringue as f or banan a filling for Banana Layer

Cake .

F IG P UDDIN G O R P IE (Ve ry S im ple )

Cu t fine one - half pound fresh or dried figs and simmer

- half an hour in three fourths pint of water , a dessert e spoonful of sugar being added when nearly de ne . R

‘ - w move and cool , when add the well beaten yolks of t o eggs . Place in a pudding or pie dish and bake in moderate oven k fi l o a until the yol s are set suf ciently , then p ace on t p meringue made of the whites of the eggs and two table f S Le o . t wn an d spoonfuls ugar this bro remove to cool .

F IG S UET P UDDI N G (A n En glish R e c ipe )

Chop fine six ounces of suet in three - fourths pound of

- flour , adding a well beaten egg , three fourths cup of sugar , S uffi e and ci nt milk to form a smooth dough . Roll out half an inch thick and sprinkle on it one pound fin e - chopped fi s. g Roll this up and tie in a pudding cloth , place In boil

’ f or A ing water , and boil two hours . ( little nutmeg may be fl used for avouring . ) TH E FIG 2 65

F IG B R EA D P UDDIN G

Soak three cu ps of breadcrumb s in one an d one- fourth of t and e s o pints wa er b at into thi f ur eggs , a pinch of salt ,

' - su ar an d . two tablespoons of g , one and one third cups of

. chopped figs (The figs should be first dredged in flour . )

Flavour with lemon or nutmeg . Beat well , then place in u in - d s an d s an an d a p dd g i h bake lowly for hour a h lf , or place pu ddin g in tight- covered vessel which is to b e place d in a pot of boilin g water an d kept at a boil for two r a and a half hours . Se ve with h rd sauce .

F IG B L A N C MA N G E

Make as for Banana Blanc Mange ; using one cu p of fig pulp and one cup of Chopped nuts and a little lemon tinc P o ture . repare a sauce with the y lk of the egg beaten with a tablespoon of sugar and stirred in with a pint of Add boiling milk . one teaspoon of cornstarch , wet with N e a . a little w ter , and remove from the fire utm g may be

added or a dash of lemon extract . Serve cold .

F IG ICE - C R EA M

For two quarts of fig ice - cream mix one quart of cream z with two cu ps of sugar and free e partially . Then add x r on é to the mi tu e two cups of fig marmalade , the juice of w on e s t an d lemon ith tea poonful of lemon extrac , the whites of four e ggs with which has been whipped a pinch

n . of salt , and finish freezi g

' - M F IG I C E C R EA N o . 2

new m Stir together one pint of cream , one pint of ilk ,

- P and three fourths cup of sugar . lace on stove and bring s r o s w to a boil . In a epa ate vessel sh uld have been te ed on e cup of chopped dried figs or two cups of fresh fruit in 2 66 FRUIT RECIP ES

- Add . one half cup of water . to the hot milk and let cool

Then freeze , adding at the last moment either pineapple or lemon extract and the juice of half a lemon . This will make nearly two quarts .

F IG IC E Peel two quarts of fresh figs and stir well with the juice of one lemon and its grated peel , or one teaspoon lemon

u . Add extract , some fr it acid and two cups of sugar two cups of water and freeze . F IG C A N DY Boil over a slow fire one pound of sugar and a half pint of water until the syrup hardens when dropped into cold Add water . half a teaspoon of vinegar and remove from Cr the fire , stirring once twice before pouring over a layer D m of figs placed in deep dish . ried figs ay be used either

e rfe c l previously soaked an hour in cold water , or those p t v

. dry They are more apt to give good results . than the fresh figs .

C A NDIED O R C R YS TA L L IS ED F IG S P roceed as in third method for drying until the syrup A . t dipping stage is reached this point , on removing them from the boiling syrup drain and sprinkle thickly with granulated sugar , then place on thin wooden slabs ” or hurdles of galvanised iron and dry very slowly in

- n fruit dryer or slow ove , turning the figs frequentl y . When thoroughly dried and su gared these may be packed in lay e rs in , with oil paper between and kept a dry place . Or proceed as for candied cherries , dipping first in brine instead of lye . F IG JA M

If dried steam first till very soft . If fresh and ripe

- place them in a double boiler , heating through perfectly

2 68 FRU IT RECI P ES brine and let stand over night when rinse well in fresh cold water , drain , pack close together in jars , and pour over them hot spiced vinegar (sweetened if liked) as for apples , cherries , grapes , etc .

C A KE S OF F IG S

Cook ripe , peeled figs slowly in double boiler with a

- li . little sugar and flavouring (if ked) , till smooth and thick P Almonds may be added while cooking . our into shallow moulds or pansand dry slowly in sun , oven , or dryer , when perfectly dry cutting in squares or strips and wrapping in oiled paper or storing in dry place . These may be used for cookery as are the commercial figs .

TO DR Y F IG S

e C There are several methods in vogu for this , a alifornia E ’ treatment of them (Dr. isen s) reported by the Depart D A iv . P No . I ment of griculture ( of omol . , Bul . ) being the following : When the figs began to wilt and show small white seams they were cu t from the tree by means of k scissors or a nife , then carefully placed on trays similar to An raisin trays . ( improvement is here suggeste d of nailing

- laths to form longitudinal ribs across the tray bottoms . ) By placing the figs with the eye elevated on the rib the sugary contents are prevented from leaking out . The e figs are now plac d in the sun to dry turned every day , at e first s parately by hand, but when partially dried were u E turned as we t rn raisin trays . very night they were covered over. The figs are suffi ciently dry when they

show the same dryness in the morning as the evening . ffi " w l ff If not su ciently dried they il pu up and spoil . It is , however , a great danger to overdry the figs Such figs will get a cooked and earthy taste . It took from five e to twelv days to dry the figs , according to the weather . TH E FIG 2 69

When dry they may be dumped into sweat boxes for a few days but the better way is to dip and pack them right

a . Now way prepare a kettle or tub with boiling water , in which is put enough common unrefined rock salt , such as is used for cattle ; table salt will not d o . Sea water A may be preferable . bout three big handfuls of rock salt to one gallon of water is enough . When the salt is dis solved and the water is again boiling immerse the figs for t h e two seconds ; immediately afterwards thumb figs , and work the eye of the fig downward and the stalk end u p

. n e ce ssarv . ward This process is First , it dis

S tributes the thicker kin around the eye of the fig evenly , and in eating we thus get equal parts of the thicker r It and thinne skin . Secondly , places the

fine skin of the stalk end on top , and when the figs are packed and pressed they present a beautiful smooth

' boilin surface . I believe the dipping of the figs in g salt water may be dispensed with if the figs are sufficiently pliable without it . But it is absolutely indispensable to dip the figs in salt water , and during the thumbing of the figs the hands of the packer must be constantly moistened b y salt water or the sugar will stick to the fingers and make the operation almost impossible . The figs taste at first exceedingly salt but after a few davs the salt works into the fig and gives it a peculiar appetising taste , counteracting the excessive sweetness . “ The heavy pressing of the figs , which is always so strong that it causes them to burst at the stalk end is much it objected to by the consumer , as evidently defaces the

fig . But , nevertheless , this compression is absolutely necessary . It prevents insects from entering between them and it prevents the air entering , thus drying out the

fig .

Mr. . A second California method reported ( Burn ham , 2 7 o FRUIT RECIP ES of Riverside) was to pick the figs when wilted and while y et green to treat it to a strong sulphur bath , then put in ting the sun to dry , after this sweating it in sacks , then packing . H F A Florida method . R . ( armer and Fruit Grower) is to gather the figs when fully ripe but before they crack in open . The fruit should be placed a wire basket and it dip into a deep kettle of hot lye made from wood ashes . Le t it remain in the lye a minute or two to remove the gum Le and milk and until the figs begin to shrivel slightly . t off all the lye drip the figs , place them in a kettle or vat of boiling syrup , and let them remain in it three or four i minutes . Then dip them out with a sk mmer , let the syrup run off entirel y and place the fruit at once in a dryer ffi or evaporator . When su ciently dry let them become an d C perfectly cool pack very lose in drums or boxes , i " press ng the fruit down compactly with a small lever . Figs form their own sugar in packing but spices may be th e placed between the layers , or Southern sweet bay , if i time and fancy so d ctate . A simpler method is to pick when ripe and dry on trays in the sun , turning every day and pressing flat with the P hand . ack in layers and keep in a dry place .

2 7 2 FRU IT RECIP ES

or terminal bud of these palms , called the cabbage , is u i sweet , tender , and nutty , but it is too lux r ous an article m of diet to be often indulged in , as its re oval causes the

- death of the tree . The ends of the leaf stalks , however , are almost identical in texture and flavour and are used as a vegetable . With the se po ints of similarity the ge neral re semblance in appearance and food values of the trees ceases for the fruits borne by them are totally unlike in form and ‘kind of ’ Th e nutriment . date s distinctive and preponderating Th e element is sugar ; that of the cocoanut , oil . sma ll proportion of fat contained in the date is chiefly in its stones or pits wh ich are sometimes roasted and ground for use as a substitute for coff ee an d sometimes ground u n Th e roa sted to secure the oil contained in them . cake or paste remaining from the l atter p rocess is given to camels as food , as are also types of imperfect dates . The dates

' th e m se lv e s wh e n In r h e t , compressed prepa ing t m in o dried ou ru is u se d cakes for future use , give t a sy p which in cookery i th l ke molasse s , and e crushed fruit may be fermented for e date wine . So concentrated has natur made the food th e o r value of date , s powe ful and readily carried a store s of i hou e energy , that in some countries the k lling of a

- ff date palm is a crimin al o e nce . It is true that dates l contain a very smal per cent . of protein but their sugar is in so pure and simple a form that they are readil y digested and when eaten with nuts to furnish the nitrogen and fat th e b s l com ination i an a most perfect food . M Th ore th an one variety of date bears fruit . e wild P oe n ix s lvestris s date of India, h y , i famed for its sugar l On the production as wel as for its fruit . whole this fruit bearing pal m is not as sensitive to col d as is the cocoanut

“ in " I l and grows luxuriantly parts of Spain and ta y . It b ol d begins to bear from a out ten years upward indefinitely , —— DATE u COCOANUT 2 7 3

age seeming no hindrance . Some of the Italian date trees prove their longevity for it was over on e thousand years

“ ago that those of Bordighera were planted by the monks . C o ocoanuts , like dates , c ntain only a small per cent . of

e but un ke t on e nitrog n . , li hat other palm fruit . provide of the most delightful forms of oil and in as generous quantity as the date gives sugar. According to the tradition of m s t b colder cli e he cocoanut is indigestible , ut in the balmy countries Where the cocoa- palm flourishes one does not i i hear of this , chie fly be cause ts fruit is there eaten n proper condition : when at the right stages to be offered human “ — stomachs . The white nut lining is Soft enough fi w “ t at rst ( hen half ripe o be e aten with a spoon , and e b t the milk is not thick and whit u clear , somewhat sweet , o s and most refreshin g up t perfect maturity . It is aid h t ere is nothin g more easily digested , assimilate d and a i fattening than fresh cocoanut milk , nd it s recommended s s : to invalids to be, a freely indulged in a possible perhaps i re stora the juice of six cocoanuts a day to beg n with , as a tive . (Fresh cocoanut oil is sometimes prescribed as a sub stitute for cod liver oil . ) There are people whose e n thusiasm over it goe s so far as to claim th e probability of cocoanut milk being that fountain of youth so ardently sought and so persistently concealed since time itself was young . But , as with many other fruits , the cocoanut is a e b tu for me and c g ther d efore, ma rity ship nt even where old does not aff ect it o n the long journey it is impossible b ut that it should be the reverse of improved on reaching its H e destination . owever , one may get something of th flavour of both milk and meat in the northlands and need not shun them if one uses the cocoanut from the shell and o n s gets it unadulterated , a d uses alway s sufficient of all ’ kinds of fruit to keep one s digestive apparatus in good condition . 2 7 4 FRUIT RECIPES

RECIP ES FOR DATE S AND COCOANUT

DA TE S A N DW IC H ES

' Stone an d chop dates u n til soft enough to spread between i th n slices of buttered bread . If good butter and whole some white or brown bread are used one has a most satis f in y g luncheon , containing all the requirements of fat ,

fin e - . On e sugar , nitrogen , etc may substitute chopped

the u . nuts for b tter , for variety , if one wishes

DA T E G EMS

cu To half a p of stoned , chopped dates add the well b e -ten a yolk of one egg , a pinch of salt , half a pint of sweet I two e milk , scant cups of flour in which two t aspoons of

in - e bak g powder have be n sifted , adding a tablespoon of oil or butter before beating in the whipped white of the mi egg . Bake for twenty nutes rather briskly .

DA TE F R UIT B R EA D

M eas F ak for Bread for ruit Toast (Introductory Recipes) , and for each loaf allow and work in nearly a pint of chopped , S toned dates .

DA TES W I TH B R EA KF A S T F OOD With any cooked breakfast food stir in a cup or more f ew of stoned , chopped dates a minutes b efore r emoving

. Or from the fire , they may be added to any uncooked, i ff flaked food w th delicious e ect .

S TEW ED DA TE S Wash and cover a pound of dates with one pint of water let and stand over night . In the morning place on the L stove and let them come to a boil . e t them simmer gently

— DATE COCOANUT 2 75

te a f e for a few minu s , ddinga wdrops of lemon orlime or e f orange juice , then remov the ruit , add a little su gar to

t - the water lef in the cooking vessel , and simmer until the hi P syrup is t ckened . our this over the fruit and serve when cold . DA T E JA M Jam may be made from dates by cooking in the pro portion of one pound of ston e d f ru it to one cup of water — and a half- pound of sugar th e sugar to be added after r s u Ad the f uit has immered about eight min tes . d with

u 9. e e the s gar t aspoonful of butt r and spice , or lemon flav ou rin s C juice , or other g as one choose . ook down o e until smo th and thick and plac in jars .

DA TE F L UF F - DUFF

Stew one cupful of dates , stoned , until tender , then put through a colander and mix with one cup of sugar in which has been sifted a teaspoonful of cream of tartar . Beat thorou ghly th e whites of five eggs with a pinch of salt and f two when perfectly stif add the yolks of and whip again . w No mix lightly , a little at a time , with the dates and

d - l sugar and place in a buttere —baking dish . Sprink e over the top one- hal f cu p of fin e chopped nuts and bake f or w . i fifteen minutes Serve this ith cream , p lain or wh pped .

DA TE F OA M

Make an orange or lemon gelatine jelly . (With a plain gelatine it is best to foll ow directions given by the m an u f ac u kn tu re rs of the partic lar brand one uses , as they ow best u a the strength o f their gelatine , sing , however , in a w rm “ h e climate one cup less of water than t at r commended) .

With this as a foundation , when the gelatine begins to harden slightly on being removed from the Stove and 2 7 6 FRUIT RECI PES — add whipped in process of cooling , the well beaten whites P d . of two eggs and one cup of stone , chopped dates lace in a mould and set on ice to chill .

DA T E P IE

' e For two pies use a pound of d at s . Wash them and place in a crock with a quart of milk to heat slowly . When A soft stone them and crush or put through colander . dd an egg or a tablespoon of dissolved cornstarch to thicken , then place in a baked pastry shell . Whipped cream or a meringue may be used with this or thin lattice strips of paste laced over it .

J DA TE L A YE R C A K E

U se On e Fo In trod the , Two , Three , ur recipe (see u c tory Recipes) and bake in layers . Ice with a plain , boiled icing (see Introductory Recipes) in which , as it cools, should be stirred one cup of stoned , chopped dates .

DA T L OA F C A KE E L M ake the cake as above , using , however , an additional cup of flour and a second he apin g teaspoon of baking pow dd . A der one grated nutmeg , the grated rind of one lemon , and one pound of dates , stoned , cut fine , and dredged with flour . Bake in a moderate oven one hour or more .

DA TE MA C A R OON S ff Beat the whites of three eggs sti , then add gradually a half pound of powdered sugar (a dessertspoonful of cornstarch sifted through the sugar) ; one - half cup o f fin e chopped nuts and one of dates , and the rind of an orange grated . Work well together gently , adding enough grated f cocoanut to make sti f enough to form into balls . Very

2 7 8 FRUIT RECIP ES

C OC OA NUT A N D DA TE S A L A D

The fresh cocoanut , cut in cubes , mixed with stoned , halved dates , served on crisp , tender lettuce or young cab M bage leaves , makes a pretty and delicious salad . ayon naise or a cooked dressing in which lemon juice takes the n place of vinegar , gives proper piqua cy .

C OC OA NUT MI L K F O R C OOKE R Y

' Cocoanut milk m ay b e used in any way that cow s milk "

: . k is used for soups , stews , and dainty desserts The mil may still be used after the shell is brown and hard through the proper stage is when the shell is tender enough to be i f . cut into with a sharp , sti f , slender kn fe To get all the milk at the more advanced stages the white meat should be t grated , and boiling wa er poured over it in proportion of a one sc nt quart to each large cocoanut . Stir this for some minutes , then strain through a cotton cloth , squeezing Le t the cocoanut well . this liquid cool and it will be found e that the fat rises as does cr am and may be used as cream , butter , or oil . The fibre remaining may again be treated with boiling water but its quality will not be as rich .

C OC OA NUT 8 60 ? (Old R e c ipe )

’ Scald and scrape (but do not skin ) two sets of calves feet (eight) and place in a soup - kettle with the thin- p ared rind of a lemon and six blades of mace . P our over this one gallon of cold water and let heat gradually , skimming , simmering till the calves ’ feet are thoroughly shredded by w the long gentle cooking , hen strain and set away to harden . Remove the fat from it and replace on the stove with a fin e - scraped fresh cocoanut (at least a half- pound of cocoa nut meat) and a pint or more of undiluted cocoanut milk or cream . (Butter and a little corn or rice flour may be — DATE COCOANUT 2 7 9

A substituted with milk for the cocoanut juice . ) dd half r a nutmeg g ated ; boil fifteen minutes , skimming , then serve with small French rolls or milk biscuit . Sugar may be passed with this .

C O C OA NUT C U R R Y

For In India cocoanut is very much used in curries . a vegetable curry melt two tablespoons of butter in a sauce pan (or use co okn g oil) ; slice into this one onion and let it Now cook for a few moments . add one tablespoonful of curry powder mixed with a half pint of cocoanut milk and

of an d . a scant teaspoon salt , let simmer for five minutes h The vegetables should ave been prepared beforehand , cooked separately : (cut in small bits) : two carrots ; two

- i - medium siz ed Ir sh potatoes ; one half pint of green peas,

- and one half pint of grated cocoanut . Place these in the curry and let simmer for about five minutes , when it is ready to serve .

C OC OA NUT O MEL ET Beat together the whites of three eggs with a half tea n spoonful of salt and dash of tabasco . Whe well whipped add the yolks and one cup of gr ated cocoanut with a half C y cup of cocoanut milk . ook carefull for three minutes

- in a well buttered saucepan where there is moderate heat , slipping a knife under the omelet once or twice to prevent r n i burning . When pa tially brown set in the oven to fi sh cooking , a good final test being that of no particle sticking to a knife thrust into the centre .

C OC OA NUT INDIA N F R ITTE R S

P lace in a bowl three tablespoons of flour and scald with ff sufficient scalding cocoanut milk to make a smooth , sti th e paste . Let it cool , then add to it beaten yolks 2 80 FRUIT RECIP ES

r w of fou eggs , and the whites of two , ith a cup or

r . s mo e (as desired) of fresh , shredded cocoanut Work thi up well to gether then drop by dessertspoonfuls into boiling fat or oil and fry to a golden brown .

COCOA N UT TOA S T

Toast to a medium brown some slices of rusk an d pour r m C oan m en ove the fresh oc ut ilk , slightly th—ick ed ; adding at o r s e the last shredded , tender coc anut f e h gather d .

Se rve hot with a dash of nutmeg OVe r the whole .

C OC OA NUT A N D O RA N G E F L O W ER S

When at its first creamy spoon stage serve the nu r m s e c cocoa t f o the hell , in conv nient pieces , or s raped

- an d n on to a serving dish , spri kled with the fresh or can died

- flowe rs Th r petals of orange . e p eserve d orange fioWers l ma b e e w a o . C a m r n y us d ith this , s re m , sugar , a e i gue , or wine may be served with it .

S H ERR IE D C OC OA N UT

Grate a fresh Cocozinu t an d drop into a thick syrup made of our c su a to two t r an d co k f ups of g r of wa e , o gently for m nu e W n on e forty i t s. he d e remov from the fire and mme ia e s in th e n hree i d t ly tir beate yolks of t eggs. These s ou t i k n a e w th e n an d h ld h c e littl ith beati g heat . Add wine laSSful s err w we o T a g of h y , hip ll and co l . ( he e ggs may be stirred in while still on stove but shou ld never be al owed o l t boil . ) C O C OA N UT C UP S

Gently stew a sliced cocoanut in th e cocoanut milk for an u e hour, or ntil t nder, then add juice and grated rind of

m n - one le on or ora ge , a half cup of sugar , an d the beaten

. Le t y yolks of four eggs thicken slightl , then pour into

2 8 2 FRUIT RECI P ES

drop on buttered paper . Bake fifteen minutes in rather

ui a q ck oven . C OC OA NUT" C R EA M CANDY

Grate one cocoanut and set aside . Boil one and a half pounds of sugar with the milk of the cocoanut , heating i very slowly till sugar is melted . Bo l then for five or six minutes gently ; add the grated cocoanut an d boil ten min P utes longer . Stir continually . our on buttered plates

- and give forty eight hours as time for hardening .

C OC OA NUT MO US S E (F ro z e n )

H ave ready one cup of fresh , pounded cocoanut and add “ ” i to it a pint of the richest cocoanut cream and m lk , or half a pin t of cocoanut milk and a half pint of whipped ' Add - cream (from cow s milk) . three fourths cup of sugar i and a tiny p nch of salt , then stir in a small tablespoon of gelatine which h as been dissolved in two table spoons of

For . water and strained . Freeze . ( one quart )

Th e - cocoanut , particularly the fresh picked fruit , lends o itself or its milk to almost . every form of fr zen dainty ,

- making most attractive ices , ice creams , etc . , and in many forms supposedly adapted only to other (more strictly) i fru t it is delightful as foundation or accessory .

- - u n The palm cabbage , or the stalk ends , may be used , in cooked , salads , or delicately cooked (like cauliflower) , or pickled . CH APTER XXIII

T H E JA P A N E S E P E R S I MMO N (Diospyru s K aki' Diospy race e )

H IS l i , the nationa fruit of Japan , is a g ant compared with the persimmon of the North American woods as regard s the size of its fruit ; the tree is a comparative dwarf but makes up in beauty , symmetry , and convenience i of size what it lacks in he ght . It does not need the frost to sweeten its fruit but neither does the frost- touch prove

- harmful as to other semi tropical fruits . There is as end less an array of variety in this persimmon as the apple can present and it is used by the Japanese in as many different ways and as constantly . The Japan persimmon varies

in - so size , flavour , and shape , from the size of a base ball to that of the largest orange ; from those somewhat tasteless and dry to a ravishingly delicious and juicy type ; and from the rounding , through all degrees , to the extremely — i in i elongated that one can but general se dealing w th it . It seems a great pity that it is not better known and ap re ciate d N p in orthern markets , as it ships well , grows so readily and in such abundance that it is not the expensive

- fruit many of the semi tropical products prove to be , and yet is one of the richest of fruits in food value . It can best perhaps be compared with the banana as to its type ” in of riches and its practicability as a whole meal itself . e n It has wealth of carbohydrat s , also fat and protei , (with

- more sugar however) , and its energy producing power is about the same as the forceful banana . It is susceptible of much more variation than is realised 2 8 3 2 84 FR U IT RECI P ES

C an d yet in even Florida and alifornia , its prodigal abun dance might be indulged in not only more freely , with better results because of its substance, but farther north than it

d. has yet been grown or shippe It should be mentioned , “ - however , that only the chocolate or dark meated vari e i are t e s , of which there a number , should be used in E l cookery . ven where the others are perfect y ripe the chemical action of the heat brings out the astringent qual ity so actively that it is impossible to eat the results . The chocolate varieties may be used without any danger of the development of unpleasant qualities . The thoroughly N sim w ripe orthern per mon in its s eet , sugary state , may be also used with great success with most of the recipes or suggestions given for the Japanese .

RECIP ES

TO S E RVE OR C O MB I NE T H E UN COOKED P ER S IMMO N In serving the uncooked Kaki send it to the table with sharp-pointed spoons with which both to pierce quickly r the thin skin and eat the pulp . O it may be peeled care fully , the pulp removed and mixed lightly with orange r —hi be ore juice and sugar or with whipped c eam t s , f serving. k Tapioca and sago , or gelatine already coo ed , may be added i with the whipped wh te of an egg for a dessert , but in such case the puddings should be made rather thick and partially cooled before pouring over the persimmon , in order that the latter may not become too juicy with the warmth and e make the dessert wat ry . Frozen pers immons are very delicious—peeled and frozen whole with sugar and orange juice , or mashed with syrup and lemon juice as an ice , or

- added at the last moment to plain ice cream .

9 86 FRUIT RECI P ES — First Method When f airlv ripened pick the fruit from

off at the trees , peel the skin and hang them by threads tach e d to the stems in a room for two or three weeks . They You will then turn brown or black and become soft . will say that they are the most delicious fruits in the world and dried still further , they will become just like dried figs , or better than figs . Further , pack them in a box in alternate

' layers with cut rice straw and keep them for a month . Black ones then become covered With a white powder (not mouldy) . They then become very sweet , though the sweetness may not be retained through the next summer . “ Second Method—H arvesting time being the same as above , the fruits are packed into an empty wine cask (in

k - S d e . Japan casks , Japanese rice wine) This should still a be full of alcoholic flavour , or if the fl vour be weak , the cask should be sprinkled with wine or brandy or au v other spirit . Sherry wine somewhat resembles our Sake . Sprinkle the fruits very lightly with wine and keep covered air- tight for a week or two according to the temperature A and the degree of austereness of the fruit . t the end of the time they become sweet . Other Methods—The process of sweetening is not merely limited to the above methods , but the fruit may be treated e in s veral other ways ; for instance , put new rice straws ' and dried h au lrn s of sweet potato in about equal proportion

n - fif in a vat , filli g it about one th full . To this add a little wood ashes and pour warm water over them . Stir up the straw so as to get it thoroughly wet . When the water is

- - tepid , put in fruit to fill it one quarter to one third full and stir up to wet the fruit and imbed it in the straw . Cover fiv e the vat for or seven days , after which time the fruit will be fit to eat . The fruits thus cured are n ot as sweet as " a by the Sake c sk process,

2 88 FRUIT RECIP E S

RECI P ES

TO S E R VE TH E G UA VA UN C OO KED

P h e eel t fruit , selecting if possible the nearly seedless ' ml across varieties , and where the seeds are virtually slice the fruit and serve with sugar and cream or a little wine and spice with sugar . Where the seeds form an objection able centre, slice lengt hwise or halve after peeling and scrape r o scoop away the seeds from the inner side before serving . The scooped- out halves of th e larger varieties m av be w filled ith chopped nuts , cocoanut shredded , candied K fruits , whipped cream or meringue , the aki and orange jui ce an d innumerable other variations for special occasions . S TEW ED G UA VA

d Peel an proceed as ab ove , then cover with cold water At or sweet milk and simmer gently until tender . this dd u ar r r w stage a s g , o suga and spice to taste , and serve hen cooL G UA VA S A UC E

h This may be made with t e cooked or fresh guavas . Peel and put throu gh a coarse sieve or fruit crusher to T — remove the seeds . he pulp resulting a smooth mass may be mixed with sugar alone or with th e addition of a little lime or lemon juice or spice . Serve as with apple n sauce . The white of a egg may be whipped stiff and added if liked . G UAVA S A LADS

P th e as e eel and slice as far outside seed centre possibl , on removing seeds remainin g inner side . It is advisable to

- use either the large pale yellow pear guava , mild in flavour ,

- or the vermilion tinted red , tart fruit (the original apple

r u - guava) . Se ve on lett ce or tender cabbage heart with TH E GlJAVA 2 3 9 M . s is French dressing ayonnai e , howe ver, sometimes pre As ferred . with other fruits variety almos t without end may be made by adding celery or nuts , other fruits or delicate vegetables.

G UA VA W ITH MA C A RO NI P For this use only the very tart fruit . eel and put pulp

through sieve . In one pint of pulp rub smooth a

teaspoon of flour with a teaspoon of butter , and salt and A l u pepper to taste . ( ittle lemon j ice will be necessary with the milder varieties . ) Bring this to scalding point in

- H e e n double boiler. av r ady plain boiled macaro i cut in P inch leng ths ; drain and add the prepared guava . lace

- ru in baking dish , sprinkle breadc mbs an d bits of butter

to . on p , and bake in quick oven fifteen or twenty minutes

GUA VA F R ITTER S

Peel and slice thick the fruit (removing seeds) . The Di lengthwise slices are best where seeds are prominent. p in fritter batter (see Introductory Recipes) and proceed

as for other fruit fritters .

G UA VA S H O R TCA KE

e Make a sauce (as abov ) , preferably with the

s t k . fruit , and erve as for S rawberry Shortca e

Introductory Recipes . )

G UA VA C O B B L ER

See Peach Cobbler .

G UA VA B ROW N B ETTY

A le Make as for Apple Brown Betty . (See pp

G UA VA DUMP L IN GS

Se e Apple and Le mon Dumplings . 2 9° FRU IT RECI PES

G UA VA R O L Y P O L Y

See Apple Roly Poly .

G UA VA C U S TA R D

To the yolks of three whipped eggs add three cups gu ava

n pulp , one pi t of milk , a little orange peel , two teaspoons

. cornstarch , a pinch of salt , and sugar to taste Bake in

l in - cups or pastry shel s , pudding dish unlined or cook in double- boiler with care (as with all custards) and pour into heated glass dish .

OTH ER DES S E R TS Guavas may be used with all of the foundation formulas given in Introductory Recipes and will be found very deli ciou s with gelatine and other delicate concoctions as well u a as in tarts , etc . For all ices the g av is particularly satis , factory . For these the syrup may be used as well as the preserved forms put through a sieve so that they may be had out of season as well as when the fresh , crushed fruit is at hand .

I G UA VA JE L L Y N o .

A good general rule in guava- jelly (more than with al most any other fruit) is to avoid that which is dead ripe . i i Never use the ent re quant ty of mature gu avas . To make in small quantities is best and an excellent plan is to save the parings and seed centres for a day or two from

For l N 1 fruit used for sauce or desserts . Jel y o . use half the quantity of ripe gu avas and half those which are well filled out but not quite turned in colour : not thoroughly mature . If the whole fruit is used slice it , cover bottom of preserving kettle with cold water , and simmer till soft . Strain through jelly- bag (never squ eeze) ; boil the juice rapidly twenty minutes with or without the juice of half

TH E GUAVA 2 9 I

- a lemon added for each half pint ; add warm , granulated

an d sugar , cup for cup with the juice , let melt and boil . f - fiv e mi This should jell in about twenty n u te s .

G A A L 2 U V JE L Y N o . For this take the entire quantity of guavas well filled out u — but still q ite under ripe . Slice ; place with cold water

as above ; simmer till cooked to pieces and strain . F oreach

' ' pint of thick juice which results place in another vessel a

- wt M half pound of sugar and a half pint of a er . ake this into a syrup and when it has thickened somewhat add two pints of the syrup to each pint of the fruit juice . Cook . C M in slowly till it jells . (See itron elon Jelly . )

C A TT L E Y G UA VA JEL L Y

The Cattle y may be used in its mature or immature stages , its general tartness precluding the necessity gener ally of using lemon juice with it . Proceed otherwise as with any regular fruit jelly , using sugar pint for pint .

G UA VA P A S T E

l e This is a heavy , pasty je ly much esteemed as a d licacy .

e - e U s for the unripe fruit three fourths its w ight in sugar . Cook the sugar in a separate vessel with water equal in u u quantity to the s gar , red cing to a heavy syrup . In another vessel cook the sliced ; unpeeled ripe guavas with h a little water till quite soft , t en strain through coarse sieve and cook again slowly in double- boile r; When t he mass

” is a thick paste add the boiling syrup to it and cook until it

- begins to candy when dropped in iced Water . Line tin boxes with white or oiled paper and fill with the paste . a e Serve for breakf st or for dess rt , in latter case with accompaniment of Edam or fresh cream cheese . 2 9 2 FRUIT RECI P ES

G UA VA MA R MA L A DE

Cook as for jelly , pressing through coarse sieve when soft . i Cook up again with equal quant ty of sugar , adding juice of one lemon to each pint of pulp . When thick place in jars . G UA VA P R ES E R VE P eel and halve ripe guavas , removing seeds with pointed an spoon . For each pint of fruit add one pound of sugar d

- C three fourths pint of water . ook together until the n syrup candies slightly in cold water , then add fruit a d cook till translucent .

G UA VA S W EET P IC KL E

Make a syrup of three pounds of sugar to each quart of an d six vinegar pounds of fruit , adding a teaspoon each of allspice , mace , cloves , and cinnamon . Simmer half an hour , skimming the while , then drop into it the whole fruit , peeled (ripe but very firm) , and cook slowly until tender but not too soft . Remove fruit and cook syrup alone till thick , then pour , boiling hot , over the fruit , packed in jars for sealing .

G UA VA C A TS UP

Slice ripe guavas and cover with cold water . Let sim mer till soft , then rub through colander and coarse sieve

(both) . To each four quarts of guava allow four small tablespoons each of salt an d ground mustard ; one each of pepper , allspice , and celery seed (the latter in a small b ag) . Simmer slowly in a quart of strong vinegar for four hours . Stir carefully and frequently to pre

bu . vent rning This should cook down thick and smooth .

Set aside at the end of four hours and let stand over night .

e , Wh n cool if too thick add vinegar till of right consistency , e t e - i n an d w ho th n heat to boil ng poi t bottle hile t , sealingtight .

FRUIT RECI PES

k the mouth of jar tie thin cotton cloth and let stand a wee , when the old seeds must be removed and replaced with fresh seeds or else start new jars with fresh peel and seeds , the d pouring all the water together as old see s are removed . After the fruit is removed add one - half pint sugar to each K t gallon of fermented liquor . eep the clo h tied over the

" jar- mouth for about two weeks (or less) after the sugar is

d . added and fermente , then cork tight CHAPTER XXV

R O S E A N D MA L A Y A P P L E S A V A P L M , J U , S U R I N A M A N D B A R B A DOE S “ C H E R R IE S ” , A N D MA R MA L A DE B OX

TH E R OS E A P P L E or. Eugen ia jambos H IS beautiful , dainty fruit is of the same large family M taceae of which the guava is a member , the yr , and h E u en ia imen ta also that to whic the allspice , the g p , belongs . With its rose odour and overdress and delicate

flavour , it is an extremely attractive morsel . It may be a im eaten in its natur l state ; sliced , with wine and sugar ; s mered gently with sugar so that a delicate , simple sauce is the result , or its top and seeds removed , dropped into fi boiling syrup for about fteen minutes , then served whole , it cold . In general should be treated very much as is the u g ava for foods , either cooked for immediate use , preserved , or used in beverages .

MA L A Y A P P L E A N D JA VA P L UM

' ' Malacce n sz s The Malay Apple (E . ) is not unlike the Rose : i Apple , though larger ; in colour the same p nk and white .

u E ambolan a l The Java P l m ( . j ) bears a sweet purp e fruit about the size of Northern plums .

S U R INA M O R C A YENNE C H ER R Y (Eugen ia Miche li)

an d - u This cherry is both black red fr ited , the black variety being considered somewhat sweeter than the red . 2 9 5 2 96 FRUIT RECI P ES

Although n ot a cherry it may be treated almost identically “ the same in food preparations ; in simple cookery or put up . — The Barbadoes Cherry (Malphigia glabra) resembles

th e . Surinam , though not the same fruit It is a little more tart but may be treated the same in food prepara~ tion .

MA R MA L A DE B OX o r Ge n ipa Americana This plant or small tree is not distantly related to the C ff P C M F o ee lant and ape Jessamine of the adder amily , and bears a curious and delicious fruit called familiarly “ M m l ” D . G ar a ade Box It is much valued in utch uiana ,

Brazil , and othe r tropical countries .

2 98 FRU IT RECI P ES it may be in numerous ways) : these must be removed by pressing the pomegranate through a sieve but the seeds k t n o must not be crushed in so doing for , bro en , hey are t pleasant in flavour .

RECIP ES

P O MEG R A NA TE IC E

Cu t a dozen ripe pomegranates in half and remove se eds u o from the rind carefully . In the j ice stir till diss lved one Add r a i pound of sugar. g adu lly a p nt of water ; strain again and freeze .

P O MEG RA NA TE S YR UP Press and strain from seeds and cook down juice till F thick , when add sugar (see ruit Syrup : Introductory v Recipes) . The uncooked juice is considered ery cooling s k in fevers and the syrup makes a deliciou drin .

M L L A E TC . JE Y, J ,

Use the tart varieties or those somewhat under-ripe and u h proceed as for other s c preparations . The jelly resulting is particularly beautiful . Pomegranate win e may be made with successful results and the fruit , seeds removed , served cooked , or fresh with — , flav ou rin o r - g of orange blossom rose water , or cocoanut s and ugar. CHA PTER XXVII

TH E A V C A D “ O O , A G U A C A TE , OR A L L IGA TOR P E A R (P ersea Gratissima : Lau raceae)

H IS favourite West Indian and Southern American

fruit in form resembles a pear somewhat , hence its

. z popular name It varies in si e from that of a large pear ,

upward . Its seed occupies rather large space , but

the melting pulp makes up for this in richness . It is ” ’ ” Palto M called additionally , (in Brazil) and idshipman s

or Vegetable Butter . Its wealth of oil is given out to best

advantage of fruit and eater in salad form . The pulp is

generally left adhering to the rind in serving . A Cuban method of preparation is as follows : Th e

fruit is halved before sending to the table , and cut across with a sharp knife into little grooves into which the dress “ ” ing will run and thus permeate the flesh of the pear .

Then salt , red pepper , and possibly a little cinnamon are

‘ N o - . tw dusted over it ext , mustard spoonfuls of prepared

mustard , a tablespoonful of vinegar , and two of oil are

poured into the halves , a piece of ice placed thereon , and the fruit set on ice that it m ay be thoroughly chilled

before serving . A u M nother method , in vog e in exico , is to serve the

fruit uncut , to be halved at the table . The pulp is then S rubbed smooth as butter with a poon , and lime or lemon

juice added , with oil (one tablespoon of acid to three of

oil) and a dash of pepper and salt . By some the addition of a little sugar is preferred . This is eaten with thin

S lices of bread . 3 o o FRUIT RECIP ES

A third method of making salad with the avocado is to combine it with cress , a little chopped onion , radishes , —in cucumbers , lettuce , beets varying combinations , but alway s with the French dressing of oil , vinegar , salt , and red pepper . Still another way is to use the smooth - rubbed pulp with a little oil (in place of the o il added to the yolk of egg for may onnaise) , and with pepper , salt , and lemon or lime

n . juice to taste , servi g with crisp lettuce The S liced fruit is sometimes used as a garnish for meat

i S dishes and is also served with w ne , sugar , and pices ; may be peeled , sliced , and fried , or the mashed pulp used for sandwiches with lemon juice , pepper , and salt .

30 2 FRUIT RECIP ES

though it is a fragrant , creamy fruit , conical , with blunt B ellflowe r S point (not unlike a apple in hape) , and when ri th e pe the large stem pulls out of fruit , leaving a hole — - E n D . . Va . half way through it . H eman A cherimoli'a C r On n . the other ha d , , the he imoya , or Chiramo a A y , or Jamaica pple , is the greatest favourite of A an d d the nonas , most delicious , even considere to outrank in general attractions every other known fruit sav e the M v angosteen . It aries in size and weight from those no “ ” an oran e larger than g to fifteen pounders . Its juicy white pulp (containing small brown seeds) is eaten with a

e spoon , uncooked . It also makes a d licious frozen dainty .

3 0 4 FRUIT RECI P ES

L ike the guava , it is susceptible of many variations as a fresh food or preserve .

M P Rhee dia E du lis The ountain lum ( ) , is a relative of the mangosteen and bears , also , edible fruit , which are sub - acid and not unlike the ordinary plum of the tem perate zones CHAPTER XXX

S A P ODI L L A MA MM E , E S A P OTA, W H I T E S A P OT A T A , S R A P P L E , C OC OA P L U M A N D “ " E GO F RU IT (or Ti- e s )

H ESE fruits come under the S apotacew and are a

very delicious group . The Sapodilla , or Sapodilla ” P D Achras s a ota lum , or illy , ( p ) at first sight invariably reminds one of a russet apple , though in flavour it is rather a combination of pear and peach and th e soft pulp is

- coarse grained . Its homely , rusty coat is a deceptive u covering for it is an excellent fruit , ncooked or preserved , and may be treated very much as are peaches . “ ” D Mimu so s S ie be ri' The Wild illy ( p ) is a delicious ,

- e berry lik little fruit very much liked .

M L u cu ma mammos a The ammee Sapota or , has rather unusual fruit which much varies in size—from that of a

‘ - — muskmelon down to that of a goose egg and the bright , l reddish pu p , which has been compared to both pumpkin is o pie and to muskmelon , eaten unco ked , just as it is .

It contains from one to three long seeds . The White Sapota (Casimi' roa e du lis) is about the size e of a peach an d resembl s it somewhat in flavour . The Star Apple (Chrys ophyllum caimito) varies in colour e with variety , (being purple or gre n) , described by Kingsley as an evergreen peach , shedding from the under side of — " l every leaf a golden light call it not shade . It is arger , however , more like an apple in form and smoothness of

- n skin . Its star shaped core contains umerous brown seeds , rather large and flat . The flavour is somewhat peculiar , 3 0 5 3 0 6 FRUIT RECIP ES

but the apple may be varied in preparation . Its pulp M mixed with orange juice is in Jamaica called atrimony . C P Chr sobalan us icaco k The ocoa lum ( y ) , with its pin i n and wh te fruit , was so amed because the seeds were thought to resemble the cocoanut in form and the fruit the common plum . The egg Fruit (Lu cu ma called in Ke y West “ - - e s M Ti ess or Ti , is like a small ammee Sapota and considered equally delicious.

3 0 8 FRU IT RECI P ES

tree is more nearly that of a palm than anything else and an d the leaves resemble those of both the castor bean fig ,

e . a being curiously cut , larg and graceful They h ve a singular and valuable power in their action upon meat fibre in which quality th e rin d of th e papaw shares : When the rind is rubbe d o v er the tou ghe st meat or the meat is wrapped for a few hours in the leaves the offending tough

ness entirely disappears . The fruit juice has remarkable stomachic qualities and Joseph Jeff erson was a noted e x ample of the claim that the tropical papaw is a cure for m t dyspepsia . In for the frui is rather a cross between the

f or banana and the muskmelon . It may be prepared i r C cookery , l ke the coarser vegetables of no thern limates ,

a u before it quite reaches maturity ; e ten ncooked , it must be thoroughly ripened to be acceptable to the palate . N (This fru it is not in the least related to the orthern papaw . ) ” Prickly P ear is rather an indefinite term as there are O m m' over one hundred and fifty members of this , the p a,

’ ’ - i - n t a ct c ce r O. F ca s I d c of the C a a e . The yellow f uited and

- O. tu n a r the , which bears purple red f uit , are perhaps best known and are very commonly used for eating uncooked or

stewed with some other fruit , as lemon or pineapple , for

- flav ou rin . i g , or preserves The fru t , though sub acid , has with many varieties not distinct enough a tone to render it extremely popular though it is very refreshing and cooling and the mucilaginous quality , which is not unpleasant , is

- considered healing . The purple fruited prickly pear is

‘ u se d f or C often olouring in desserts and preserves . “ ” The Granadilla and May - Pop are members of the P assi oracece r Ma fl , edible f uits of the passion vine . The y P assi o ra in carn ata w r pop , fl , grows ild in the Southe n States , but it is little known that it makes a be autiful an d delicate

’ P assi o ad jelly . It is a smaller edition of the fl ra ah s and ’ the P assi ora u adran u larzs two r ies r n fl q g , va iet of g a adilla, SIX FAMI LIAR FRUITS 3 0 9 so me o f the latter o f which grow to the S ize of a s mall

l . me on It was named, it is said , by the early S paniards “ ” fo r ra the pomegranate , or g nada. It is o ften served co un oked with wine and sugar . Where je lly is made of

Ma - this or the y pop , the ripe fruit , halved acros s, shoul d be er a n - cov ed with cold w ter, addi g about one third the

w - quantity of ell filled out but still immature, green skinned

Co - fruit . ok slowly for three quarte rs of an hour, then ad d d an d m a little col water si mer again for an hour. S train o ff the j u ice (which should b y this time be well cooked an d r as down) , p oceed for ordinary fruit jelly . (See Ma m a pre vio us re cipes. ) rmalade y be made by us ing the n d c pulp of the fruit , putti g through a colan er or sieve , ook ing down , and adding sugar . The resulting colour of jelly or marm alade is a pale yellow . ' The famous Tamarind Tree (Tamarin dus I a di ca) has delicate leaves and pink and white flowers succeeded by edible pods which are preserved and used in confections , beverages , and medicinally . The acid of the fresh tamarind is very pleasing , and is a combination of citric , malic , r formic , butyric , and tartaric acids, the ta tness being given chiefly by the citric . The laxative and coolin g qualities make the tamarind con sidered of much value in a many cases of illness and cert inly in the prevention of it . Tamarinds are usually shipped from the East or West Indies in some form of preserve though with a little more care it is said they might be had more abundantly in the market in fresh form , if the shell or pod were prevented i from breaking , for with th s natural protection they keep well for some months . With the pods removed the tama rind may be preserved b y pouring boilin g syrup over the fruit or by placing in stone jars with alte rnate layers of i sugar . They may be also cand ed and made into syrup i i for use in various summer dr nks , though now known ch efly 3 1 0 FRUIT RECIPES

‘ as a valued drink in fevers . The tamarind perhaps may be likened to the lemon and also some what to the grape .

' t It has a good percentage of bitartra e of potassa , its other components (besides the acids) being gum , pectin , water , r and pulpy matte .

A r ocar u s in cisa A . c The Bread Fruit Tree ( t p , or om mu n is ) bears for e ight months in succession its generous balls of pulp which are so useful as a food to so many is in tropical peoples . It prepared various ways for eating , one of the most common methods being to bake it with a bit of fat meat in the centre of the fruit . It tastes something like “ potato as well as somewhat resembling bread .

CHAPTER XXXII

S OME O F TH E L E S S KN OW N F R U ITS

H E Otaheite and Spanish or B arbadoes goose “ ” l berries are gooseberries by courtesy only , a r though the esemblance is not strained. The former , di Cicca sticha C . racemos a ( ) , is a tree whose berries are e whit and waxy , growing in clusters , the tree , leaves , and berries all being very ornamental . The gooseberries are extremely acid and very acceptable at their season of i r : . pening the height of summer The Spanish , or o P ereskia acule ata Barbadoes G oseberry , the , or Lemon V ine , is a climbing cactus with exquisite blossoms which resemble miniature pond lilies , and fruit of pleasin g y tartness . (The blossoms , however , gi e out an unpleasant i musty odour . ) The berr es may be used in many diff ou t hi erent ways , bringing their refres ng flavour in e natural state or for culinary purpos s . ‘ L G Meh cocca bi u a The Spanish ime , or inep ( j g ) has edible fruit rese mbling the Northern plum in appearance b ut r with rather a grape flavou , both pulp and seeds being i e edible , the latter somet mes roasted and eat n like chest nuts . or G the The Sea Grape Shore rape of the West Indies , ' occolo m ara - a C ba a f , is not a vine but a broad le ved , bushy

- red tree or plant with purple fruits of agreeable flavour , susceptible of varied preparation . The Ceriman or Maus tera delicios a is sometimes called

- i t the false bread fruit , but its distinct on should res w entirely upon itself for the tall , spreading plant ith large , 3 1 1 3 1 2 FRUIT RECI PES

curiously shaped leaves bears a most delicious fruit , cone m like in for , whose flavour is singularly delightful , a com bination of pineapple and banana both as to taste and pulp

far . consistency , though more aromatic than either The l i ight , husky skin is not unlike the pineapple in its mark ngs , though very tender an d readily removed . ai Aberia Ca ra N The K Apple ( fi ) , from atal , is a large , edible fruit which makes an exce llent pre se rve . " ' i r n das C a Cariss a ardm n a The C ar ss a ca a or ar unda , the acu min ata a N n and C . , are lso atal fruits , k own v ariously " “ ” “ as Amatungulu and Am atu ngu la and Marit s gula. The Carissa ardu in a resembles both a cherry and r - k raspbe ry , having a thin , deep red s in , and tiny seeds kes i (larger than the fruits it resembles) , and ma a delic ous al n pre serve though equ ly good u cooked . “ " The Strawberry P ear (Cereu s trian gu laris) is a rela “ N - C tive of the ight blooming ereus , and its scaly buds , " c Godoc ro are i o alled h in Jamaica , used in mak ng the to th “ — “ " some pepper pot of the West Indies . Th e pear itself is pleasing but not more pronounced than many other fruits of the cacti . M P P e The elon ear or pino , sometimes called also M S h ru m s elon is one of the edible Solanu s , de cribed Gre le ch L A Mr . os e by of ngeles , who introd uce d it ther “ G a as m from uatemal , rese bling in many respects the C i o hili pepper v ne , the tomat , or the nightshade . The

is e fruit of the size of a hen or goose egg or even larg r , th e S and very much of same hape . The interior of the

e fruit is a solid pulp similar to that of a pear , also of a pal yellow colour and of a tast e re se mbling that of a fin e musk~ ch melon , but which has besides a arming acid , so wh ole some and delicious that when the fruit is partaken of on ” s a very warm day it allay the thirst for several hours . o em re It is in c lour l on , st aked with violet .

3 r4 FRUIT RECIP ES

The Emblic Myrobolan (P hyllan thu s emblica) is a beauti r i ful plant with delicate leaves , a f uit sim lar to the plum s r and equally edible in simple or pre erved fo m . ‘ D Dario z ibe thin us : D Nat . The urian or urion ( 0rd .

S tercu liacece ),is a remarkable Malay fruit . The tree is tall “ a and spreading, the fruit , rounding yet ov l , the size of a ' ” e wi man s head, is light gre n and covered th spines . It takes nine months to ripen and the odour from it is very

off ensive to Europeans till accustomed to it . The creamy

pulp , somewhat like a strawberry in flavour , is delicious

i w e . and contains large seeds , ed ble hen roast d a he liu m lon an u m L The N p g , or ongan Tree , is hand ui somely leaved and clustered with fr t , the latter having

one large seed in the centre with sweet , translucent pulp

" r su rounding it . It is a near relative of the famous Chinese - e e heliu m Litchi Leechee nut tr e , the N p (or ) , which loses its pink colour (of pulp) when dried and so reaches other

countries in brown , shrivelled form . The Strawberry Tree (A rbu tu s u ne do) is semi- tropical

but will grow as far north as Ireland . The tree , flowers and berries are all very ornamental and from the edible fruit

both sugar and a fermented liquor are made . In Italy and n Spai the berries are much liked . ' O A S ondi as du lczls The taheite pple , or p , is a fruit bearing tree whose apples are in colour and siz e like

small oranges and in flavour resemble the pineapple .

O P a - The taheite lum , or Jam ica or H og Plum S ondias u tea c the ria ( p I or S . y ) is related to the Otaheite Apple but its fruit more nearly resembles the larger Loquat (“ Japan ' The Ximem a American a is also often called the H og " P a lum and is lso an edible , though a smaller fruit . " Adam onia di itata B aob ob The g or , known best in A m “ M ’ ” frica , is com only called onkey s Bread . The oval

3 r6 FRUIT RECI PES

' mi s ma bu m ns a f o f a v mduCes The A de , ruit J a , p a

i e o ea h ur be rry whic h is r d bef re r c ing mat ty , when it turns f e is a ar an d x e or . black . It r ther t t e cell nt pres rves ' H ave m o du lcis swe e A Japanese tree , the , bears a t,

fle shy and aromatic little fruit of fine flavour. n d Te rminal ia c ata a not The Tro pical Almo , pp , is an h u h as edi se d al mo nd save in name , t o gh it oily , ble e s which are used like nuts . is hus has its The Jujube (Z yp ) , which given name to the t e P s e c e famous confec ion , Jujub a t (whi h latter , how ver, is u su ally made m erely of gum - arabic an d su gar and is quite innoce nt of the Jujube ingredient) has a number of ia

t ere stin e L s . r g members , among th m the true otu The f uit u md cmfs ke of the common Juj be (j . g ) is not unli an olive o r is di m a date and or narily red , though someti es yellow, is r i in colour . It d ied and sold as a sweetmeat , so delic ous Al is a . it in fl vour so , it is much eaten uncooked , as a

- dessert fruit in some places . The Jujube contains a lar ge amount of nourishm ent an d is considered o f value medic i in ally for its demul cent propert es . The Sorrel or Roselle Berry (Jamaica Sorrel : Hibiscus sabdariffa) is a rival of the c urrant and mulberry as a

- ui jelly maker. With its j ce , however , use only about e - o f i thr e fourths pound sugar to a p nt of juice . The calyxes of the sorrel may be preserve d an d the young ” leaves cooke d as greens . The colour of the jelly is apt to fade in strong light so the glasses should be wrapped in newspaper and placed in a cool , dark spot .

The Spanish Bayonet of the South , belonging to the Yu ccas (Yucca baccata) has a magn ifice nt flower stalk r si the c i ng from centre of its tall , spiny olumn , which is succeeded by an equally imposing cluster of curious w k fruit ith thic , tender rind and seeds . The juicy pulp re i may be prepa d for cook ng in similar fashion to apples , to which it bears a not distant resemblance in flavour . SOME LES S KNOWN FRUITS 3 1 7

There are two plants which deserve me ntion amon g

" th e fruits from the value to mankind of their roots : the

‘ ’ Caiarh um assailan ts Zin ribe r o i i , and the g fia n aé s , or P Ginger lant . ‘ The Caladz wm ass istants is on e of the most commonly cultivated of all Caladiums but its le ave s literally and v e y a o figurati l oversh dow its r ots , and the riche s of the

e re . latt r main undreamed of It is a very starchy food , conside re d of more value than Irish potatoes but may b e e o i w prepar d in c okery n much the same ay . Th e Cocco E of the C e Root , or ddoes , genus olocasia , of the sam

. O Araceaf e the C di natural rder ( ) as ala ums , is much culti v ate d for the food v alu e of num ero us v arieties in the S outh H A e Seas , in the imalayas , and in tropical m rica . Some of the Cocco varieties are a little acrid before cooking and

. e W in the raw state rather stimulating Th Caladium. hQ i ever , s mild . The virtues and delights of the Ginger Root are as famil iar as the alphabet whether con sidered medicinally or is u culinarily . It s pposed to have been imported originally a The from India to Africa nd the West Indies . roots are Old generally dug when about a year , cleaned and scalded , “ " is then dried and shipped , though the green ginger also Th e r f r an article of commerce . favou ite o m of ginger is of

course , the preserve or confection , and for either one the

'

d . young , tender roots must be use (It may be mentioned “ ' Li Al nia n u ta that the roots of the Shell ly , the pi ns m may be preserve d or candied with si ilar results . ) The following are old recipes which may be succe ssfully used with Ginge r Root.

en s s nnvnn GINGER

i t em S crape the young , green roots and we gh h , allowing B s t he n e equal weight of sugar . oil each epara ely , t gi g r 3 1 8 FRUIT RECI PES

d w until ten er enough to be pierced with a ooden splinter, and the sugar with water and cream of tartar until it forms

’ A h alf te as oon a syrup . ( llow a half pint of water and a p of cream of tartar to each pound of sugar . ) Skim the syrup well ; place the ginger in it and when it has boiled up well place in jars and seal .

This may be varied in flavour by adding lemon , orange , fi v o in or other fruit as a u r g. To every three pounds of w u ginger allo at least the j ice of one lemon and rind , and for each pint additional of lemon juice add one pound of sugar . CAN D IED GINGER K See Candied Cherries and the umquat .

GINGER V I NEGAR

For each quart o f strong vinegar allow two ounces of crushed white ginger and let stand two months , when

t . strain , bot le , and cork well

W o 1 Old R ec i e GINGER INE N . ( p )

Allow twelve ounces of bruised ginger to n ine gallons of

- flav ou re d soft water and boil till well , when add eighteen Le t pounds of sugar . dissolve and partially cool when

- add a little hop yeast . When clear rack ofi and bottle at once .

W 2 Old R GINGER INE N o . ( e cipe )

To ten ga llons of soft water add fifteen poun ds of loaf

- sugar clarified with the whites of six eggs , and one half pound of sliced and bruised white ginger . When this has boiled on e- half hour stir into it the thin- peeled yellow rind of a dozen lemons and let stand till cool . Then add a s gill of yea t , first , however , reserving two quarts of the mixture in which must be dissolved two ounces of

RE MING ’I‘ O N ’S A NALYSES OF FRUITS

Alb u ' m i nou s Kin ds of Frm t 3 “ P e r cen t . 3 2521212

Apple i to 1 5 Apric ot 5 to I 5 to 1 0 B lac kb e rry R ub u s Villosu s I to 1 5 Can ad e n sis Trivialis B l e rr ac i b y ( V .

Goos e b erry Pe ac h

ear . gin e app e

P . lu m .

R aspb e rry (Ru bu s Id oen s ) . S trawb e rry

S D P T : . N TORY : AN ALYSES OF FR U I S U . IS E SA WOOD B ACH E

B arb e rr : Fi Gra e - su ar u m an d y g ( p g , g , ’ m u c i a e K o e n i s An a l g . g l . ) Malic ac id P er cent. S u gar Wate r 3 I 2 0 Nitro e n o s m at e al I Gu m g u ri . a e S u ar W t r g . 49 . 7 9 a t t as sa a n d Ash S l s , P o , R e ckon e d o n th e we igh t of ab so lu te ly dry m aterial th e ui tro e n ou s m a e rial : a s Van g t Mu lb e rry : (An ly si o f H . su ar : H e e se ) g

P er ce n t. ' P run e : e s a s s K o n ig A n l y i . G u c o se an d un c r s l y (C o n t a in s u n cry stallisab le t a a s a llis b le ug r su ar m alic acid an d mu ci g , , e e a id su o se d Fr c ( pp la in u s atte g o m r) . t o b e m alic an d tar P er cen t. t aric) Wate r Ash Nitroge n o u s m at lb u m m atte r Fat A . 53 c s a P e tic f a t , S u r ts an d u m sal t e n t re e a . . , g O r i . f m t Water Fre e acid In so lu b le m atte r as Wood y fib re (n ot in see d s e cto se c ol u c u din st on e , p , l l g ) e lo se , tc Ash FR H F T V R M ITI ” ES RUI S . A E AGE CO POS ON NORTH E R N

C ar Fu el

‘ Ref use Wat e r P rotein b oh y Ash v alu e F ood Mate n als d rat e s p e r

P er Ct. P er C t. P er C t. P er C t. P er Ct. po u n d A le s 2 . 6 1 0 pp 5 3 3 3 . 3 9

G 3 . e s 1 2 . 8 o 1 2 2 5 5 . 4 9 5 Mu s e on s 0 8 0 l 5 . . 3 Wa erme lo n 1 1 0 t 7 5 . 5 P e a s 60 2 0 r 4 . 4 3

P e rsimm o n s . . ° N . 6 1 7 3 1 -5 -9 5 5 (e dib le po rtion

R as b e rri e s . 6 2 2 0 p . S t awb e ries 6 1 0 r r . 9 . 5

Apple s 1 1 8 5 Apricots 1 1 2 5 R aisin s 1 2 65

' Extr cts f rom Tab l e 1 Farme rs B u lle tin No . 1 2 . P rin ci le s of Nutrition a , , 4 p and Nutritiv e Valu e of Foo W . At ater P h . D . S e cial A e n t d Re v . E d . ) B O w “ ( y . , , p g i n Ch arge of Nu trition In v estig ation s Offic e of E xp erimen t S t atio n .

— ' Tn o mcu . A N D S E MI TR OP ICAL Fn u xr s

Wat er Fat b oh y Ash Food Mat e rials drate s p e r e e C L P e o n d P er Ct. P er C t. P r Ct. P er CL P r r Ct. p u a a a 2 6 B n n . 8 . 4 . 6 0

an e 6 6 . 1 1 0 Or g 3 4 . . 4 5

n a e 6 . . 2 1 G v t 9 43 9 8 5 . 3 4 3

a P ersimm on . 80 . 0 n . 7 . 9 5 5

{ e mon . 1 2 . 7 5 . 4 5 t 1 2 coan u . Co . 9 95 P re p 2 8 65 2 . 4 . 8 3 4 Alli ator pe ar (e 1b le portion ) S urin am c h erry R o selle : 1

Cal . 3 P 0

E x f om c al x . . r y 9

x f rom od s - E . p 93 7 Dried Frwits Date s 1 2 7 5 1 2 8 0

' M. E . a c ort . B ull o . 1 2 . n u Milk dat a. f rom afi re etin N t Guav a—an d Co coa t J p 3 Guav a Additio nal : Crude Fib re . p er cent . ' B ull n o . 1 6 . 3 From Farmers eti , N 9

1 0 er ce n t. in vert su ar e r cen t . total su ar. . 0 Inc lu ding p g . p g b In cluding p e r c e n t . sug ar.

r. c In clu ding 1 p er ce n t . suga V R G DIB L PORTION " FOOD MATERIALS . (A E A E E E ) COMP OS ITI O N DE TE RMI N E D

Fresh Fru its Sug ar S t arch

P s rCt.

Apple s . 5 0 68 B an an as 1 9 . 0 Grape s . 7 Oran ge s 1 P e ars . 9 9 5 . 7 3

a P e simm on . J p. r

Oh v e s . . 1 8 S c arle t H aws . 5 7 6 1 Wate rm e lon . 8 7 . 4

R aisin s : Pru n e s

e e . . C an n d P ach e s . 5 5 6 Co c o an u ts 5 9 . 7

C OMP OS ITION A S S U ME D

Fre sh Fru its

1 P o m e gran ate s .

A r c t . 62 p i o s (d rie d) . 5

a D te s . 5 S trawb errie s R as b e rrie s , re d . 1 A e S au ce pp .

Composition of Food Mate rials U se d in Diet ary S tu dies an d Dig estio n Exp at

E . M. 8 . r. E - e n ts M. an Cal A x erimen t t ti n 1 2 . im (Table J e. , g p al S a o . 90 1

' B E —Con un u ed TA L 5 6.

Kin d of Food Material

ams P reserves etc . J , Dam son

Grape Figs (ste we d) .

a a a ad . Or n ge m rm l e .

P in e apple m armalad e . Pru n e sau c e P a am e ch j . a a P e r j m .

Pin e apple .

Q u in ce Strawb erry Tom at o jam Raspb e rry j ellies : Apple B arb rr e y . B l ackb erry h e r fi st C r y , r

Crab apple .

Grape

H u ckle b e rry Pin e apple P a e c h .

Q uin c e R aspb e rry S trawb e rry Can n ed F rui ts : A pric ots 1 6 Oh e rrie s 1 6 P e ars 6 1 5 3 -3 3 45 -5 P e ac h e s 1 6 Pin e apple 1 6

' Apple (fall l ?pl n 2 0 B lac kb efl ll y 2 0 5 7 -1 4 I 3 3 -3

3 2 4 — TAB LE 6 on ti u 5 . C n ed

Am oun ts

Kin d o f Foo d Material

Crab a ) le Grape l v e s se e dlin g) Oran ge (Florid a n av e l) Pe ac h Pe ar (B artle tt) Pin e a le Plum am so n ) Plu m (wild f o x) Mixe d Fru it B errie s : B lackb errie s Cran b e rrie s

H uc kle b e rrie s s Logan b e rrie . R as pb e rrie s ” ra e s St wb e rri . Wh ortleb e rrie s

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

n n n n n n n n n n n n n

o o o o o o o o o o o o o

o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o

t t t t t t t t t t

0 1 . . 9 4

. 1 0 5 . 9 Fro m F urth er In v e stigatio n s Am on g Fruitarian s —at th e ta n a tu ral Ex erim e n S ion 1 0 1 1 0 2 M. E . Calif or i Agricu l p t t , 9 9 A st an P o f e ssor o f A ric u lt re U n iv ersi of S . ssi t C aff a M. J , r g u , ty De a tm e n t o f A ricu e u l e n No 1 2 U . S . r . f ornia. B l ti . 3 , p r g ltu 3 2 5

3 28 INDEX

e Lemon an d A e Mar A le S ar 0 . Appl , ppl pp , t , 3 5

S te we d with Da es 2 . m a ad e . l , 44 t , 7

S u a 0 1 . Lo e 1 . v , 47 g r, 3

Swe e Pickles 1 . Mala 2 . y , 9 5 t , 4

Mamm e e 0 Ta 1 . , 3 3 . rt , 3

Marm alad e En ish 1 . , 44 gl , 3

Fil in 8 . an d u rran t . C , 44 l g, 3

n S cot ch 2 . an d Le m o , 44 . , 3

n c e Te a . an d Q u i , 44 . , 4 7

Tu rn o e rs 2 . Crab a e . ppl , 44 v , 3

6 in e ar 6. Ma 1 . y , 4 V g , 4

Me rin u e d Wate r 6. g , 3 , 4 Ic 2 Nu ts with B kd A l s 2 8 . e . a e pp e , , 4 - in P o m on W e a . Old f ashion e d S au ce 2 . , , 4 , 7 — 7 cot Th e 66 0 A i 8 . Ome le t 2 . , 9 pr , ,

Am e rican 0 . S o . Otah e ite 1 . , 3 4 , 3 3 Domin o or ld 2 o P ck 6 S t . Wi T a , 4 . g , 47 P an cake s 2 0 , 3 . 3 3 — Pickle we e t 1 A o cad o 2 0 0 . S . , , 4 v , 99 3

Pie 0 . , 3 B acu r 1 u st ard 1 . . C , 3 y , 3 5 — B an an a Th e 2 — Pin e 2 8 2 . 0 2 . , 3 49 , , 5 5 9 B ake d 2 P omo n a Win e . 2 . , 4 7 , 5 B r 2 8 Po n d 0 1 . e e . , 3 , 5 Po n e B lan c Man e 2 , 3 5 . g , 5 5 . k 2 Ca e Cu . P e se rv e s Plain . r , , 43 p , 5 4 L a e r 2 Cid e r . . , 43 y , 4 d N u t o 2 Crab a le . an af . p , 43 , 5 4 ic Drie d 2 Gra e u a . . p , 43 , 5 9 F o r 2 an d u in ce s u . Q , 43 . l , 5 9 Frie d 2 P u n e s an d 2 . . r , 7 , 53 din B r Fritte rs Pu d at e . Cru sh e d 2 g , t , 3 4 ( ) , 5 4 . B row n B H e tt . a e d 2 y , 3 5 lv , 5 3 In dian A le Froz e n 2 , 3 5 . , 5 7 . P u fis o r Fli a s 2 Fro z e n Cu stard 2 p p , 3 . , 5 7 .

u in ce s an d A le s 2 Ice 2 . Q ( pp ) , 4 , 5 7 Cre am 2 44 , 5 7 . isin s an d e l Ra 2 . 2 8 . ( ) , 7 J ly , 5 R o P o 2 L a e r Cake 2 ly ly , 3 . y , 54 .

R o se 2 . L o af Cak e 2 , 95 , 5 4 .

S alad s 2 . an d Nu t 2 , 9 , 54 . w c S an d i h e s 2 . Mar l ma ad e 2 . , 9 , 5 7 c d S au e Ci e r 2 . Mu b isi 2 8 . ( ) , 7 , 5 Old -f ashion e d 2 Mu e n 2 . e 8 . , 7 g , 5 m S u . Nu t Stri s 2 l p , 3 4 p , 5 5 . w S n o . m le O e t 2 2 . , 3 7 , 5 B a s P an c l . ake s 2 l , 3 5 , 5 4 . Froz n e 8 . Pie 2 , 4 , 54 .

S o id . P u d din 2 6 l , 3 7 g , 5 .

S ou 2 8 . With R c 2 i e . p , , 53

S ice d 0 . S a ad 2 2 p , 4 l , 5 I NDEX 3 29

B an an a S an dwich e s 2 . B ie s Ch e ckerb r 1 er er . , , 59 r , y , 47 b S h er e 2 . Ch e rr Win er 1 . t , 5 7 y , t , 4 7 S h or cake 2 — . an b er 1 0 1 6 1 6 t , 5 5 Cr ry , 4 , 5 7 . m e De S i st sser 2 . om 1 t , 5 5 B b e , 67 . S ou gés Li t e 2 6. Com o e 1 66 , t l , 5 p t , .

S ou Ice d 2 2 . C e am F oz e n 1 6 p ( ) , 5 r r , 7 .

S e we d 2 . i 1 6 t , 53 " 6.

g st 2 6. klldin 1 6 a , g, ah 1 6 pp 2 5 . R oly P oly in Ge n eral Win e 2 8 . 1 Di e c ion s 6 . , 5 r t ) , 7 B aob ab 1 , 3 4 . S au ce , 1 6

B arb ad oe s Ch e r 2 . n ow 1 6 r y , 9 5 S ,

B arb e rr S e e B e rrie s . S on e 1 6 y ( ) p g , 6.

B a o n e S an ish 1 . S ru 1 66 y t, p , 3 7 y p ,

B e n al m ec 1 . 1 Tar 66. g Qu —, 3 5 t, B e amo 2 2 2 2 6. U n co oke d To K e e rg t, —3 , p , B erries 1 6 1 8 . 1 6 , 3 4 7 . — B arb er ie s 1 6 1 2 1 . an t 1 1 1 r , 4 , 7 , 7 3 Curr , 44 , 7 7 9 . - - ie d 1 2 . D B ar le Du c am 1 . r , 7 J ) , 7 4

am 1 2 . r n 1 , 7 B a d y , 7 8 .

r d o d 1 2 . a su 1 ese v e C C t . ( l ) , 7 p , 7 5 ooked 1 2 lourin 1 . C , 7 . Co g, 7 9

S ru 0 f 1 . Cu 1 6. y p 7 3 p, 7 d B l u e b e rrie s D e d 1 B ilb errie s an , ri , 7 8 .

Wh ortleb e rries 1 0 I ce 1 6. (S e e ) , 4 , , 7

1 6 1 6 Ice Cre am 1 6. , 5 . , — - 6 0 B ar l c 1 B lac13b e r1e s 1 8 1 1 6 . am e u . r , 3 , 5 J ( ) , 7 4 B lack 1 B ran d 1 8 . . y , 5 , 7 5

R aisin 1 . C a s 1 . t up , 5 7 , —7 5 R ed 1 1 Ch arlo e R u sse 1 . tt , 5 9 , 7 4 7 d 1 8 Whi e with Go o se C o ial . r , 5 t 1 6 13 31 1 1 0 To Dr 0 . 1 5 8 . y , 5 , 1 e ll 13 ac1 1 . Farin a . , 5 9 J y ( 3 7 3 R ci s 1 60 R e d 1 en al e e . . G er p , , 7 3 t Whi e 1 . , 7 3 n 1 Puddi g (R cd 7 6. h 1 . P u n c 1 8 . 5 9 , 7 l ad s ckl 1 . a In 1 . P i ed , 5 7 S ( ) , 7 9 h erb e 6 1 . S 1 . Pie , 5 9 t , 7

P e se e d 1 . S h ortc ake 1 . r rv , 5 7 , 7 5

P ddin S e amed S h ru b 1 6. u g ( t ) , , 7 ic e d 1 I S . 5 9 p , 5 a o oke 1 . 1 . S lump , 5 9 7 9 in e 1 8 in e ar 1 . ar . V g , 5 7 V g , 7

Win e 1 1 Win e s 1 . , , 7 7 , 5 7 — an d em eS E d erb e rrie s 1 2 1 1 6 B lue berrie s , l , 4 44 , 9

S e e Wh or e b e rie s 1 0 1 2 . ( — tl r ) 4 , 7 Ale Fla ou ed with 1 1 1 63 1 65 v r , 7

or Ch e ckerb e Blo s so m Win e 1 0 . B oxb erry rry , , 7

B ran d 1 0 . 1 4 7 . y , 7

o B e 1 0 . Ca su 1 1 B uff al rry , 5 t p , 7 3 3° I NDEX

Mu b r B er ie s E lderb e rie s Dried 1 2 . B e ie s l e ie s am 1 68 . r , r , , 7 rr , r , J ,

w ater 1 2 . e l 1 68 . Flo er W , 7 ly , arm alad 1 6 e l 1 1 . e 8 . l y , 7 , Win e 1 6 u n ke 1 1 . . J t, 7 , 9

in m en 1 2 . Ne t e Tree S ee H ackberr O t t , 7 t l ( y) P ar rid e B er 1 P an cake s 1 1 . . , 7 t g ry , 4 7 b — 6 . R as erries 1 1 60 1 R ob of 1 6 . , 9 p , 3 9 , 3 6 B ar- le -Du c am 1 S u of 1 . yr p , 9 (J ) , 7 4 B c dm 1 61 Tar s a k Pu d . t , l , g , ld e r lo r C atsu a r F we 1 6 . W te ) , p , 3 C ordial 1 1 2 . 61 7 , . F o z en 1 61 r , . I 1 cc 1 0 . ce 61 7 , . o om am 1 i 13?ss 1 0 . 60 W n e , 7 J , .

. l 1 6 o se b e r i s 1 1 1 8 e 1 . G o r e , 44 , 7 9 , 4 J l y , B a b adoe s 1 1 Pu d din s R e d an d r , 3 g , B l ack 1 1 . at su 1 8 2 . 6 C p, ,

Ch am a n e 1 8 . R ed Ras b err Pud p g , 3 p y din h i s 1 2 . 1 61 C p , 8 . 1 8 2 R o s wic h u n e . e an d h s 1 6 C t y , e , 0 . d e l 1 R o a 1 61 Co oman . r —, 3 3 y l , oo 1 1 1 8 2 . S an dwich e s 1 F l , 8 , 60 . S h u b 1 61 am 1 . J , 7 9 r , . d R ed Cur an t With o u 1 an S ar 62 . r , ut g ,

1 S ou . 7 p , 4 d Wh ite ur in e 1 an C a 1 6 . V g r, n t 1 Win 1 a 8 0 . e 6 r , , 3 ell 1 owan 1 R . J y , 7 9 , 49 Otah ei e 1 1 e v ice B e r S 1 . t , 3 r ry , 49

P er ian 1 . 1 u S orb . v , 47 , 49 wb Pie 1 8 0 . S a errie s , tr ,

Pr s Wh o 1 0 . e er ed le 8 1 6. v , 5 P u ddin B oile d 1 8 1 . B att er C s 1 1 . , up , 5 S au ce or L am b 1 8 2 B r an d 1 6. , . y , 5

S an ish 1 1 . s Cu t a d or F o a 1 2 . , —3 r l t, 5 art 1 8 0 1 8 1 . D r To 1 2 . , y , , 4

in e ar 1 8 . Dum lin s 1 2 V g , 3 g , 5 . ' Wa 1 er Ice 8 . E 5 0 o d 1 2 . t , 4 pe , 5

Win e 1 8 . F o at or u st ard 1 2 . , 3 l C , 5

H ackb e rr 1 8 . Fritt s e y , 4 e r (S ee th

H aws 1 8 . A le ° , 4 pp ) . 3 H u ckle be rrie s Se e Wh ot Fr oz e n 1 . ( , 53 tle berrie s) . Ge latin e (S e e Intro

u n e B e r 1 . d u ctor e ci s 1 6 r y , 49 y R pe ) , . {0 an B er 1 6 Ice 1 g ry , 9 , 53 .

Lo e A e 1 . C e am 1 4 . v ppl , 7 r , 53

Ma A e 1 6. y ppl , 4

Moun t am Ash 1 . , 49 M lb e rrie s 1 1 1 68 1 6 u , 4 , , 9 .

B an d 1 6 . r y , 9 a Dire ction Gen er s 1 68 . S au ce 1 l , , 5 1

3 3 2 INDEX

P re se r e d u 0 . Corom an d e ooseb e 1 Ch e S G . rry , v , yr p , 9 rry , 3 3 Cran b e r S e e B e rrie s P ud din 8 . . g , 4 ry ( )

B re ad 8 Curran t S e e B e rrie s . , 4 . ( ) s rd 1 P n ch Cu ta A e 0 . u 8 . , 9 ppl , 3

R u m W1ld Ch e 0 . ( rry ) , 9 Da e Th e P a m 2 1 - 2 S a ad s 8 . 8 l , 3 t , , ( l ) , 7 7 . an dwich e s 8 With B re ad fr uit 2 S , 3 . , 7 4 . m an P dd n B re akf ast Food 2 S au ce Ge u i . ( r g) , 7 4 2 6 ake L a e r . 8 4 C ( y ) , 7 6 f 2 . S h u b 0 . coa r , 9 , 7

S ou 8 . Mac aro on s 2 6 p , 3 , 7 .

S an ish 2 . Fluff Duff 2 . p , 9 5 , 7 5

u rin m 2 F oam 2 . S a . , 9 5 , 7 5 d 2 S ru Pre se r e d 0 Fru it B re a . y p ( v ) , 9 . , 7 4

Un co oke d P u d d n Fu d e 2 . i 8 . g , 4 g , 7 7

Vin e ar for S alad s G e m s 2 . g ( ) , 7 4 '

f or Cooke an d Tab e Ice 2 . ry l , , 7 7 Cre am 2 , 7 7 . Wi d Che rr R u m 0 am 2 l y , 9 . J 7 5 Win te r 1 a r ak 2 6 L e C e . , 47 . y , 7 With I ce Cre am Lo af ake 2 6 8 . C . , 5 , 7 Macaro on s 2 6 Chi ian M rt e 1 . l y l , 3 5 , 7 . h m o C ira a or Ch e r m o a 0 1 Pie 2 6. i . y y , 3 , 7 itran 2 2 C e 2 0 . S a ad 2 8 . g , 9 , 3 l , 7 Cit on 2 2 2 a w c 2 S n d i h e s 2 . r , 3 7 , 7 4 B i‘ in e In 2 2 S te we d 2 ( ) , 5 . , 7 4 . C an die d 2 2 S tu ff e d 2 , 4 , 7 7 . Drie d with u ar 2 2 D Wild 0 S . i . g 3 lly , , 3 5 Ice an d 2 2 S u . Du rian 1 . yr p , 5 , 3 4 P re se rv e 2 2 , 5

n u 2 2 . Fx t p, 5 l 5 Niion S e e Melo n s E fe rb ei‘ i' 13S e e B e s . ie ( ) y ( rr ) . o c co Ro o 1 f l 1 C t . h an t A e , 3 7 pp , 3 5 . Co c o a Plu n i Einblic M ro b olan 1 , 3 — y , 3 4 . Co co an u t P alm 2 1 2 2 8 . E u e n 2 ia . ( ) , 7 g , 95 C ake s 2 1 8 . , — Grc ani an d 2 2 Fi 60 2 . C 8 . 2 0 y , g , 7

Cu s 2 8 0 . B ake p , d , 2 62 .

Curr 2 . B an c Man e 2 6 y , 7 9 l g , 5 . D o s 2 1 8 . B re ad P u ddin 2 6 r p , g , 5 . Fri tte rs In dian 2 . Cake La e r 2 6 . ( ) , 7 9 ( y ) , 4 Mac r a oon s 2 8 1 . Lo af 2 6 , , . Mi k f or Cooke r 2 8 . C ake s Drie d 2 l y , 7 ( ) , 68 . Mou sse Fr oz e n 2 8 2 . Little 2 6 ( ) , , 3 . Omele t 2 , 7 9 . Can die d , 2 66. Oran e F owe rs an d 2 8 0 Can d 2 66 g l , . y , .

P astel de Co co 2 8 1 . Cr stallise d 2 6 , y , 6.

S alad 2 8 . Dr To 2 , 7 y ( ) , 68 . S h e rrie d 2 8 0 . E at T 2 61 , ( o) , .

S o u 2 8 . Fil in Cake 2 6 p , 7 l g ( ) , 4 .

Toast 2 80 . F e s e n h To 2 62 . , r ( ) , INDEX 3 3 3

i Ice 2 66 F , , . G ra e Fru its P e ser e d in u ic e g p , r v J , C eam 2 6 . 1 1 r , 5 3 . In dian S e e P rick Pe ar Gre e n G a e s Pick e d 1 1 6 ( ly ) , r p , l , . 0 8 H om e - m d e Tok 1 3 a a 1 . — y , 3 am 2 66. Ice wate r 1 1 J , , 9 .

e l 2 6 . Cre am 1 1 J ly , 7 , 9 .

For Fi in 2 6 . am s P ain 1 1 ( ll g) , 4 J , l , 7 . c - Pi k e s , 2 6 . R aisin curran t 1 1 l 7 , 9 . Pie 2 6 . R , 4 aisin (Grape an d

P re se r e d 2 6 . P e ar 1 1 8 v , 7 ) , . P d d n u i 2 6 . e l Crab a le an g , 4 J l y , pp d Wild

B re ad 2 6 . Gra e 1 1 , 5 , 6.

S u e t 2 6 . E d e rb e rr an d Gra e , 4 y p ,

S n ow 2 6 . 1 1 , 4 7 .

S e we d 2 62 . Gre e n r 1 G a e 1 . t , p , 7

S tufi e d 2 6 . Ri e Gra e 1 1 . , 3 p p , 7

S u e P u d din 2 6 . W1ld G a e wi h rab t g , 4 r p t C Fo o d alu e s T le s of 2 0 ab . a le 1 1 6 V , , 3 p , . o F F u r ru it e l 8 6. S ice d 1 1 6 J ly , p , . F oste d Fr it In t od u cto r u ice 1 1 r u ( r y , 3 . R e ci e s 2 2 J c l 1 . i k e G re e n ra e 1 6 p ) , , G p , . S we et Gra e 1 1 6 p , , in e 1 1 G . Plu k E n lish 1 2 0 m Ca e . p , 3 , g ,

Ge n i a Am e ican a 2 6. P u dd in 1 2 1 p r , 9 g ,

Gin e Plan t or Root 1 1 8 . P e serv e Un co oke d g r , 3 7 , 3 r , ,

Can die d 1 8 . In A sh e s B o t e d , 3 ( , t l , P e se e d 1 C otton S an d S awd u st r rv , 3 7 , , ,

in e ar 1 8 . Wax 1 1 1 V g , 3 ) , in e 1 8 o r i s n a e W . T F u t i G , 3 , r p

G oo seb err S e e B e rrie s . u ice 1 1 . y ( ) J , 3

0 P d din R aisin Ric e 1 2 0 . G an adil a 8 . u r l , 3 g , , , 1 —1 2 1 P 1 1 r e Th e 0 8 . u n ch H ot . G ap , , , , 5 A le s an d R aisin s R aisin an d Cu rran t S au c e pp , , 1 1 1 1 9 . 9 .

l d a e s 1 1 1 . R aisin s 1 1 8 B ott e Gr p , , . 1 1 1 B ran die d , 8 R aisin s an d Rice , 2 0 .

e r 1 1 R aisin Ric e P u d din 1 2 0 . B utt , 5 , g ,

ake P u m 1 2 0 . R aisin s S h e rr o f 1 1 . C ( l ) , , y , 4 1 1 S te we d with A e s Can n e d . , 3 ppl ,

a in e 1 1 . 2 . Cat awb W , 4 7

Win e 1 1 . Catsu 1 1 . p , 5 4

wich e s 1 1 8 . h u t n e 1 1 . S an d C y , 5 c R aisin ‘ an d Cu rran t o rdial 1 1 . S au e C , 5 , , l 1 b a e an d G a e e 1 . Cra ppl r p J ly , 9

2 S e a or S h ore 1 1 . 4 . , 3

h b e t 1 1 . n Lo af 1 2 1 . S e Curra t , r , 9

r an d G a e e S h o e or S e a 1 1 . Eld e rb e r y r p J lly , r ( ) , 3

1 1 S n ow 1 1 . 7 . , 9

sh P u m Cake 1 2 0 . S ou 1 1 8 . E n gli l , p ,

n 1 2 1 S ice d 1 1 6. P u ddi g , p , - 1 1 Toka H ome mad e 1 1 . Farin a, 8 . y , , 3 3 3 4 I NDEX

G v Mac aron i With 2 8 G a e Un cooke d Pre se rv e d u a a . r p , , , , ( ) , 9

Marmalade 2 2 . A sh e s 1 1 1 . (In ) , , 9

P ste 2 1 . B o e d 1 1 1 . a ttl , , 9

1 Pick e s 2 2 . o on 1 1 . C tt , l , 9 P s r s 2 2 an d 1 1 1 . re e e . S , v , 9

st 1 1 1 R ol Po 2 0 . S awd u , . y ly , 9 d 2 1 1 1 S al a 88 . Wax . (With ) , , u ice 1 1 2 au 2 Unf ermen ted J , . S ce , 88 . Un cook 2 S e r d 88 . in e ar 1 1 . e e V g , 4 v , S h o t cake 2 8 Wa er Ice 1 1 . . t , 9 r , 9

Wi d Gra e e l 1 1 6. S h r b 2 . l p J l y , u , 93

Win 1 1 te we d 2 88 . e , 3 . ,

1 gr 2 . Cat awb a 1 4 . y u , lb 3 1 . Un co kegl 2 88 Raisin , 1 4 , . in e 2 S h er or Raisin 1 1 . ar . ry , 4 V g , 93 in e 2 Toka 1 1 . W . y , 3 — , 93 - Gra e fru i or Po m e lo 2 2 2 . p t , 9 3 7 akf as t 2 1 H ackb e rr 1 (For) B re , 3 . y , 48 .

Can died S tri s 2 6. H aws 1 8 . , p , 3 , 4 An d lams 2 2 0 Plu m 1 ) C , 3 . g , 4. ockt ail 2 2 H oven ia Dnlcis 1 6 , 3 . , 3 . H u ckl b e rr e e B D o s 2 . e S e ies r p , 4 y ( rr ) .

With a e s 2 2 . ( ) r p , 3

Froz en 2 . In dian Fi S ee P ick Pea , 3 5 g ( r ly r) , Ice 2 0 8 , 3 5 . 3 . — e 2 In tro d u c tor R e ci e s 2 2 J lly , 4 . p , 3 . An d 13im e ad e 2 6 B atter or Fru it F i e s 1 ( ) , 3 . r tt r , 4. For Lun ch e on 2 1 P u dd in 1 ( ) , 3 . g, 4 . Ma m a ade 2 B a arian C e am 1 6 r l , 3 . v r , . Gen eral e m ark s 2 isc . B u it Dou h , 3 4 g , 8 . P s 2 e e e . Dro r rv , 35 p , 9 . mid n k 2 P a 1 i 2 . B lan e Man e 1 yr ) , 3 , 5 .

Rin d s 2 6. B e ad f or r i Toas 1 , 3 r u t t, 3 . S a ad s 2 B ro d G e m an F u i 1 l , 3 3 , r r t , 3 .

Sh erb et 2 . B u t e r F ui 1 2 , 3 5 t r t , . S 2 Cake E e ss 1 0 . p. 3 5 , ggl , 1n e 2 Fr . u it B ack 1 2 . , 3 5 ( l ) ,

Groun d Ch err 1 . Ge n eral Rem arks 1 1 . —y , 47 ( ) . G a a 2 8 2 . On e E 1 0 u v , 94 gg, . B an 2 . On e Two Th e e 1 1 . r y , 93 , , r , B rown B e 2 8 . h ort Ca . tty , 9 , 9 Cattle e ll 2 1 . gon 1 1 e g1m le . y J y , 9 , k p )

Cat s 2 2 . Whiie 1 1 up, 9 ( ) , .

Ch n e 2 . Can To F ui 1 ut y , 93 ( ) r t, 9 . l Cob b e 2 8 . an d r, 9 C y , Cl e ar, 2 2 .

Cus ard 2 0 . C e am 2 1 t , r , . D s n e ser s e eral 2 0 . Co n s arch B lan e Man e t ) , 9 r t , g . Du m lin s 2 8 p g , 9 . 1 5 . Fritte s 2 8 . , C st a d B aked 1 . r 9 u r , , 4

e l 2 0 . B o i e d 1 J l y , 9 l , 4 .

Cattle 2 1 . F oa 1 1 y , 9 l t, 4, 5.

3 3 6 INDEX

c mo n P 1 Le mon Te a wi h Lemon u i e , Le C e am ie . , r , 94 , t J

6 1 88 . u re Malaria 1 8 . C fo r ,

Tin c ure o f Le mon 1 0 . Cu s ard F o z e n 1 . , t , r , 99 t 9

in e 1 1 . im le 1 . S , 93 V , 3

rin n 1 8 8 Wh e 1 0 . D ks I ) , . y , 9

6 Ze s 1 1 . Du m in s 1 . , 9 l g , 9 t — Lime Th e 2 2 2 . E pm on ad e s 1 88 1 8 . gg e , , 9 , , 9 3 7

Ice 2 . l s 1 . E gg e s Pie , 9 4 , 3 7

with 1 8 uice F e sh 2 6. Flax se ed . , 7 J , r , 3

in S r 2 6. Fro z e n Cu s ard 1 . u t , 9 9 y p , 3

n r 1 Pickled 2 . Gi ger B ee , 89 . , 3 7

Pre serv ed 2 . Fo r H ach e 1 8 . e ad , 7 , 3 7

H oa se n e ss 1 8 . She b e t 2 r , 7 r , 3 7 H on e 1 S an ish 1 1 y , 93 . p , 3 Zes 2 Ice 1 . , 3 7 , 99 t — - Lim be r 2 2 2 2 6. re am 1 . e C , 99 r 3

I alian Cu e f or Mala ia Li ch i or e e ch e e 1 . t r r , t , 3 4 6 1 8 .

Lemon ad e 1 8 . , 9 l e 1 2 . J ly , 9

uice an d Te a 1 88 . J ,

L a e Cake 1 . y r , 9 7 — w 6 S te ed . Le m on ad es 1 8 1 8 . , 7 9 , 4 1 L oaf 1 . Lo e A le 4 . , 9 7 v pp , 7 Maitr e S a c 1 e d H6 e . t l u , 99

M 1 1 Mala A le 2 . arma ade . l , 9 y p , 95 n 1 M mmee le 0 O a ad 8 . a . r e e , 9 pp , 3 3

P e e 2 0 mme e S a o a 0 . Can die d 0 . a l ) , p t , 3 5 Pick 1 M n o 0 e s . a . l , 93 g , 3 7 M n s n Pie C e am Cu stard 1 . a o ee 0 , r , , 94 g t , 3 3

E ss 1 . Man ov e 1 e . ggl , 94 gr , 3 3 Pr 1 1 M mal ad e B ox eserv e s . ar 2 6 , 9 , 9 . M 1 Lemon Rin d 1 1 . aritz u la 2 , 9 g , 3 . P u ddin B o i e d 1 6 Ma A e 1 6 g ( l ) , 9 . y ppl , 4 . 1 M P E le ss . a o S ee G an adilla 0 gg , 94 y p ( r ) ; 3 8 . Rice M d 6 1 . e ar . , 95 l , 3 M — S auce 1 . elon s 1 2 1 , 9 7 , 5 3 5 .

Rice Puddin 1 . Can die d Ci ron Me lon 1 g , 95 t , 33 .

Rin d P e serv ed 1 1 . Cante lo u Ice 1 0 r , 9 , 3 . S a o 1 To v e S im l 1 2 g , 9 y , 7 . S an c 1 dwi e s 8 . Ca su Waterm n 1 e o . , 9 t p , , 3 4 ’ S au ce Mai re d H O el 1 n Me o t . Ci o l n in e l 1 ( t ) , 99 tr J l y , 3 5 . Pudd in 1 Me on . S a c e 1 . g, 97 l u , 3 4

S h erb e 1 . C rried Me on s 1 t, 99 u l , 3 5 .

S n a s 1 8 . for S alad s 1 p , 9 ( ) , 3 5 .

S on e 1 . as e e ab le s 1 p g , 9 5 ( ) V g t , 3 4.

S u ash 1 88 . Ge n eral Dire c ion s 1 q , t , 3 5 . S u for Flav o a urin 1 1 . Ice Rin s 1 2 g r, 9 g , 9 . S ru with Le m on 1 0 Man o e s 1 . 2 . y ( 9 g , 3 evithou t Le mo 1 0 Ma m al ad n . e 1 1 , 9 r , 3 . Ta io 1 ca . Mousse 1 p , 95 , 3 0 . INDEX 3 3 7

Me lon s Nu m e B aske ts 1 2 8 Oran Ice O an e F owe r 2 1 0 , t g , ge ( r g l ) , . Com o 1 te 0 . Icin Oran e Flo we r 2 1 0 p , 3 g , g , . Tar 1 0 t . ll S e v il e Or n e 2 0 a . , 3 y , l g , 7 Pie Me lo n S au c e 1 1Jiarm al . ad e 2 0 6 2 0 , 3 4 , , 7 T 1 art , 4 . Florid a 2 0 6. 3— , Pick e s 1 1 1 2 Le mo n an d Oran e 2 0 l , 3 3 . g , 7 . Man o e s 1 2 S co ch 2 g , 3 , t , 0 6. M skm s 1 1 Ri e u e lon . Pre se e d Oran e F ow p , 3 rv g l S m all M o n 1 1 e . e rs 2 0 8 2 0 . l , 3 , , 9 Wate rm e lon 1 in S ru , 3 3 . y p, P e se e d Citron Me lon 1 S e i e O an 2 0 . r rv , 3 3 v ll r e , 7

Ro ll 1 2 . S co ch Oran e arm alade , 9 t g , l 1 S a ad s . 6 , 3 4 2 0 . S au ce Citron or Pie Me lo n Wa er O an e Flowe r 2 1 0 , , , t , r g , . 1 Win e l 2 4 . S e il e 0 8 . 3 , v , — To s 1 2 r S er e Can telou . O an e Th e w 2 1 1 2 2 2 e S e e . v p , 7 g , t ,

Wate rm e lon s 1 2 . B ake d P d d n 2 1 . , 7 u i g , 5 S ice d Me lon s 1 2 Cake 2 1 —2 1 6 p , 3 , 4 S u r rise 1 2 s Ch e e e 2 1 . p , 9 . , 5 Tart Nu tm 1 0 2 1 6 e . Fruit . , g , 3 ,

M lo n s as 1 . L e r 1 e e ab le s e a 2 6. V g t , , 3 4 y , Wate rm e lon s 1 2 L oaf 2 1 6 , 7 . , . m e lo n 1 Wate r Cat su h o 2 1 . p , 3 4 S rt , 4 H alf Fr n 1 2 c oz e . h e e se ake 2 1 . , 9 C , 5

H o n e 1 . Ch i s 2 1 . y , 3 4 p , 9 Pickl s 1 co an u with 2 1 2 e . Co . , 3 3 t , ,

S h e b e t 1 0 . Cookie s 2 1 . r , 3 , 7

m o f 2 2 2 . Me on Pe ar or S hru b 1 2 . C e a l , 3 r , '

B re ad 1 s ard 2 1 . Mo n ke s . Cu y , 3 4 t , 7 o te r deliciosa 1 1 or Oran e S ou ffle 2 1 M ns a , 3 g , 7 .

8 . ou n t ain Ash 1 . De li h 2 1 , 49 g t ,

Pl n f or P e 2 1 . Mou n tain u m 0 . Fil i i , 3 4 l g ( ) , 5 Mulb e rie s S e e B e rrie s Flowe r O an e S ou ffle 2 1 r ( ) , ( r g ) , 3 .

M skm e lon S e e Melon s Fo ol 2 1 . u ( ) , , 7

M ob olan Emb ic 1 . Fritters 2 1 . yr l , 3 4 , 4

F oz e n Oran e 2 1 . r , ( g ) , 9 “ w 1 e la in e 2 1 8 ash e w or K ash a . G N u t , C , 3 3 t , 2 1 Ice , 8 . - Cre am 2 1 . 1 2 2 1 2 . Oliv e , Th e , 4 , 9 w et Ma malad e 2 1 Oran e Man d arin (S ee S e , 9 . g , — r l 2 2 1 O an e 2 1 1 2 2 2 . e r g ) , J ly , - ke 2 1 6 Oran e S e ille 2 0 1 2 1 0 . L a er Ca . g , v , y ,

Lo af Cake 2 1 6. B r n 2 0 8 . a d y , , 6 Maca oon s 2 1 . d Flowe s 2 0 . Can die r , 9 r ,

Marn i alade 2 2 0 . o s ic Cu aco a 2 0 8 . D me t r , ,

l cc 2 1 . ow rs Can die d 2 0 . Fl e , , 9 , 9

Tuddin 2 I ' Ice , 2 1 0 . g’ 5

Ome let 2 1 . Icin 2 1 0 . g, , 3

d 2 0 Oran e ad e 2 2 2 . P e se rv e 8 . r , g , Pie Fillin 2 in S ru 2 0 . y p , 9 ( g) ,

Chee se 2 1 . Wate 2 1 0 . r, ( ) , 5 3 3 8 INDEX

dd n Oran e P e serv e 2 2 1 P e ac h Cu st ard P u i 1 . g , r , . , g , 7 m e stic B ran d 0 P u ddin Marm a ad 2 1 Do 8 . e . g, l , 5 y ,

R c Drie d . i e , 2 1 8 . , 7 5 Du tch Fru it Mo o n s 6 u 2 1 . S e t , 4 . , 9 E x ract o f N e ct arin e Rice an d Oran e s 2 1 . g , 3 . t , 7 9

S a o 2 1 8 P e ach . g , . , 7 9 Fo am - e ach o r S n ow S alad s 2 1 2 . , p , , 7 4 Fritte rs 0 S au ce 2 1 . . , 5 , 7 Fro z e n h r 2 1 . S e b e 8 . t , , 7 4 F u it Mo o n s D ch 6 S h e rrie d Tan e rin e 2 1 2 u . g , . r ( t ) , 9

H a e d 68 . S h ortcake 2 1 . , 4 lv ,

S ou ffle or u stard 2 1 Ice . C . , 7 , 7 4

S ou flié Oran e Flowe 2 1 Cre am . , g r, 3 . , 7 4 m Cooke d S on e 2 1 8 . a p , J ( ) , 7 5 ,

d n 2 1 Un c ooked . S e t u di . u g , 4 , 7 5 ll 6 S u 2 2 2 e . yr p , . J y , 7

1 - Tan e in e S h e rrie d 2 1 2 Kisse s 2 . g r , , 7 L e a h e r Ta roc a 2 1 t . p , 8 , 7 5 Man o e s in e ar 2 2 2 . V g , g , 7 7

Win e 2 2 2 Marm a ad e 6. , . l , 7 O an e - tan e rin e S e e S we e t Mo o n s Du tch Frui 6 r g g ( ( t) , 9 . - Oran e 2 1 1 2 2 2 Mou s se . g ) , . , 7 3

Otah e ite A l 1 P a m 1 . e . pp , 3 4 l , 3 5 P an Do wd 1 Go ose b e rr 1 1 . . y , 3 y , 7 P u m 1 Pickle d P e ach e s or A rico . ts l , 3 4 p ,

7 7 ' , P alm Co co an u 2 1 Pie 1 t . , , 7 , 7 — ‘ Da e 2 1 2 2 t 8 . S id e r 1 , 7 p , 7 . Pe ach 1 P o n or S u et P u ddin . e 6 , 3 5 g , 9 . P a aw N orth e rn 1 6 P u d in B re a 0 d 2 . p , , . d g , , 7

T rts 1 0 6. a Cu st a d 1 . , r , 7 Tro ic al 0 Plain 1 p , 3 7 . , 7 . P artrid e B e rr 1 , 4 . S h e rrie d 2 . y— 7 , 7 P e ac h e h 66 80 . S e am e d 2 , , t , 7 . A ricot o r P e ach Win e P p , 7 9 . S u e t u d d in g or Pon e B ake d P e ach e s 6 . 6 , 9 9 B e tt 2 . Ru sse y , 7 , 7 3 . B ran d ie d . S alad s 6 , 7 7 , 8 . B an d o mm rcia C e 8 0 . S au ce P re se r e d r y , l , v , 7 5 . Dom e tic 0 s 8 . S h e rb e rt Cre am of , ( ) , 7 4 . B d P ddin 2 e a . S h e rrie d P u d din r u g , 7 ( g) , 7 2 . B u r tte 8 . S h or c ake 6 , 7 t , 9 . Cak c e Du t h 6 . n o w S . , , 9 , 7 4 C an n e d Pe ach e s 6 . S o u ffle , 7 , 7 3 . Cat su P ac e h e s 8 . S ou an d Pru n e 6 p , 7 p , 8 . Ch u t n e 8 . o y , 7 H t , 68 . Cob b er 0 . old l , 7 C , Comm e rc ial B r d an 8 0 . 1ce d y , S p 7 7 . Cre am of Pe ach Sh e rb e t S id e P ie 1 . p r , 7

4 . S e am e d P u ddin 2 i t g, 7 . C me de No au 80 . S ewed Pe ach e s r y , t , 69 .

3 4° INDEX

lu m Kirsch wasse Dom e stic Sh o tcake , 1 0 . P , r ( ) , r 3 n ow 1 0 S , 5

Pru n e S o flié 1 0 . Le ath e 8 . u 4 r , 9 , , Marm alad e Crab a e an d S o u 1 0 1 , ppl , p , S ic e d P ru n e s 1 0 2 9 5 p ,

S o n e 1 0 . S we e t . , 9 5 p g , 4 d S tu ff e d 1 0 2 Wi . l , 9 5 , Tart 1 0 Mou n t ain 0 . , 3 4 , 3

Otah eite 1 . , 3 4 — in c e Th e 62 . P aste 8 . u , g Q , , 57

B ake d 61 . ckle d . Pi , 99 ,

C an d ie d S lice s 60 . P r se rv e d 8 . e , 9 ,

C an n e d . P u d din 1 0 1 . g , , 5 9 d r Ci e . S alad . , 9 5 , 5 7

Cordial 60 . o u . S p , 9 5 ,

d Drie d 60 . ic e . S p , 9 7 ,

r fl 1 0 0 Ge n e al Dire ctio n s 62 . T i e , . r ,

in e ar 1 0 0 H on e 61 . V g , . y ,

m Cats Ice s 61 . Wi d Plu . l up, 97 ,

d e ll 8 . Marm a a e . l , 9 5 y ,

ice reserv ed 60 . Win e . u , 9 9 , ,

Marm a ad e s 8 . P om e ran ate 2 2 8 . g , 9 7 , 9 l , 5 , 5 9

P re se r e d . Ic e 2 8 . , 9 v , 5 9

ice 60 . am 2 8 . u J , 9 J , s ru 60 e ll 2 8 . J y , 9 y p,

S ru 2 8 . S a ad s 62 . y p , 9 l , 61 S auce . Win e 2 8 . , 9 , - lo e e G ra e f ruit 2 2 S te am e d 61 . P om e (S p ) , 9 ,

2 S ru P e ser e d 60 . 3 y p , r v , l 1 Tart s 61 P0 11 JA e 0 . . p , 3 ,

p r 0 . n ce B e n a 1 P rick e a 8 ui . ly , 3 — Q , g l , 3 5 Th e 1 0 1 1 0 P ru n e . , , 5

B e tt 1 0 2 R as b err S e e B e rrie s . y , p y ( )

B re ad or P on e 1 0 2 R o se A le 2 . , p , 9 5 6 P u ddin 1 0 1 R ose e e r 1 . g , ll r y , 3

Cake 1 0 R owan T e e 1 . , 3 r , 49 h or 1 0 t . S , 3

ro u ette s 1 0 2 . a ot a Mamm e e 0 . C q , S p , , 3 5 Du m in s 1 0 2 White 0 pl g , . , 3 5 .

G el atin e 1 0 . S a odilla 0 , 4 p , 3 D r 1 1 Ge n e ra i e ction s 1 0 S e a Gra e S51ore Gra e . l , 5 . ( p ) , 3

Ice s 1 0 S e ice e 1 . , 5 . rv rry , 49 n l Pu dd 1 1 I di id u a in s 0 S h adb e rr . v g , 5 . y , 49 P o n e or Prun e B ad S h add o ck 2 2 re , ,

1 0 . S h o e se a G ra e 1 1 . 2 r Grape f p ) , 3 P ud din - b e ad 1 2 S our 0 1 0 . S o . r , p , , 3 In iv idu al 1 0 o w 0 1 . S S eet . , 5 p, , 3 S u e t 1 0 2 S o b 1 , . r , 49 . 11 R 0 1 0 . S orre am aica 1 6. , 3 l , J , 3 “ S au ce P ru i n 1 0 S ou r S o 0 1 . ( 5 . p , 3

S h e rrie d P r - u e s 1 0 . S o uth Am e ric an A rico n 3 p t, INDEX 3 41

n ish B a on e 1 Tom ato awb 1 S a St e . p y t , 3 7 r rry , 47

Ch e rr 6. Tre e Tom a o 1 2 t . y , 9 , 3 3 G o ose 1 1 Trifo ia 2 2 6 . te Oran e 2 2 . , 3 l g , 3 Lim e 1 1 Tro c l A 1 i a lm on d 6. , 3 . p , 3 A 0 P S ar e . a aw 0 t ppl , 3 5 p , 3 7 . Do m in o A rico 0 S t . . g p t , 3 3 - S trawb e rr S e e B e rrie s . Vo a an a 1 . y ( ) v g , 3 5 P e ar I , 3 — m on 1 2 1 ar A 1 . W r S u le 0 a e e l . g pp , 3 t , 3 5 We i h ts an d e asure s Tab e s — g , l l s o f Fo od lu s 1 2 f xix Tab e Va e . o . , 3 9 3 4 , White S a ot a 0 We i h s an d Me asu re s xix . g t , p , 3 5 in 0 Wh ortle b rr S e e B e rrie s Tam ar d . e . , 3 9 y ( ) Win te r Ch e rr 1 Tan e lo . g , y , 4 7 - Ti e s 0 Win er re e n 1 . , 3 5 t g , 4 7