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Discover Explore beauties of albanian nature and its cultural heritage sites

Discover Albania 1

Discover Albania 4 Discover Albania Contents

04 Handicrafts Introduction Literature and Arts General Data Cinematography Geography Theatre Opening Hours of Museums and Population and Archaeological Parks History Religion 62 Political Structure Practical Information Economy How to travel to Albania National Holidays By Air (Rinas Airport) By Sea (ports) By Land (Land Border Crossing 16 Points) Albanian Nature RENT CAR Companies Albanian Coast Interurban Transport (departure and points) Mountain Tourism Potable Water Flora and Fauna Working Hours of the Albanian Administration Banks and monetary system 34 Stores National Heritage What can you buy in Albania Archaeological Parks Social tips and advice/caution UNESCO Sites Mobile phone services Cultural Monuments Border Formalities and Iso-polyphony Emergency Number

Discover Albania 5 Introduction

6 Discover Albania “Welcome to Albania!” A board at “Mother Teresa” airport welcomes you to the “Land of the Eagles”. It is Called “Albania” by foreigners, where hospitality is a centuries-old tradition and reality turns into a fantasy

Discover Albania 7 ith its favorable climate, that offers GENERAL DATA Wopportunities for many tourism activities, the diversified landscape, Area: 28,748km2 where are combined sandy and shallow Capital city: beaches of with small and Population: 3,150,886 inhabitants deep beaches of , large and Language: Albanian small Lakes, fields and valleys, Currency: Lekë high snowy mountains, with an ancient Political system: Parliamentary history, rich with archaeological parks, Democracy castles, medieval monuments, cities with Flag: Black double-headed eagle typical architecture, Albania is a tourist on red background destination to visited! International Area Code: 00355

lighting, air humidity, etc. The annual rainfall is averagely 1,430mm per year, decreasing from west to the east. It is believed that the prehistoric flow of is from a very ancient Indo- European tribe, which the Greek historian Herodotus described as the “Pelasgians”. They are considered as direct descendants of an ancient Illyrian tribe called “Albans”, who settled in today’ Albania. Others believe that Albanians and are direct descendants of the Pelasgians, who lived thousands of years before Christ. Through this guide we aim to provide Gjirokastra you practical information on our country, Located on the Balkan Peninsula in which will somehow come to your help southeastern , Albania is located during your travel and stay in Albania. near to the main European markets and This brochure contains information about can be visited easily by air, land and sea. the geographic position, population, Albania lies in the subtropical belt and history, climate, national parks, museums, is included also in the Mediterranean coastline, forests, language, religion, most climate, with relatively short and mild attractive tourist sites, information on winter and hot and dry summer. The border crossings points, etc. In addition, varies a lot from one visitors can find information on how region to another with big contrasts in to come to Albania, suggestions and terms of temperature, rainfalls, solar accommodation in various hotels and

8 Discover Albania Albanian Alps houses for rent that meet all tourists’ needs. “The sun in Albania never sets and Albania will never fade as a tourist The majority of the Albanian attraction.” territory (2/3 of the surface) is occupied by mountains and hills. Geography Such prevalence of mountains and Republic of Albania a total area of 28,748km2. It lies in Southeastern hills creates very favorable natural Europe, in the western part of the Balkan conditions for the development of Peninsula, with a significant seafront by several mountain tourism types Adriatic and Ionian seas. It is located between the geographical coordinates: 390 38’- 420 16’ north geographical latitude and 190 16’- 210 04’ east distance between North and South is geographical longitude. The extreme 355 km and 150 km from east to west. points of the geographic area of the Albania is bordered by Republic of Albania are: Vermosh in in the north, in the Northeast, the north, in the south, Sazan with in the east and with Island in the west and Vernik village in in the south and Southeast. In district in the east. The airline the west the country is surrounded by

Discover Albania 9 Climate

Albania has a typical , Albania is known for a large number of sunny days. with hot and dry summer and relatively mild and Normally, 80-90 percent of the days annually are humid winters. However, as a result of the rugged sunny. On average there are 2,200 hours of sunshine terrain, the country has many microclimates. The per year, while the largest number of sunny hours average annual temperature in the northern and is in the area of , with 2730 hours per year. Due north-eastern part of the country reaches 7.5°, to these characteristics, the beach season lasts while in the Albanian coast 17.5°C. In the central from 4 to 5 months a year. Therefore Albania can be regions of the country, the average temperatures in considered quite a “sunny” country. Such indicator January vary from -3 to 2°C, while at the coast it makes it attractive to a broad category of visitors, reaches 10°C. who come especially from Northern European

the waters of the Adriatic and Ionian sea. The Strait of , 72 km wide only, separates Albania from . Albania’s coastline length, including lagoons area, is 450 km. Albania is divided into four physical-geographical units which are: Albanian Alps, Central Mountainous Region, Southern Mountainous Region and Western lowlands. The majority of the Albanian territory (2/3 of the surface) is occupied by mountains and hills. Such prevalence of mountains and hills creates very favorable natural conditions for the development of several mountain tourism types. There are over 10 peaks that exceed the height of 2,000 meters above the sea level. The highest mountain peak of the Albanian Alps in , country is , which rises in the north- along the border with Montenegro and eastern part of the country, in the region of Kosovo. The rest of Albanian territory 1/3 Dibër along the border with Macedonia. is occupied by lowlands, which lie in the The highest peak of this mountain reaches western part of the country and in Korça 2,750 meters above sea level. Spectacular area. The country is rich with large and and highly preferred by tourists are the small lakes. The of Shkodra, with an

10 Discover Albania countries. As a result of the considerable terrain covered by the mountains, Albania possesses areas covered by a thick layer of snow, which lasts up to 100 days a year. Only in the area of Vermosh in the Albanian Alps, the layer of snow reaches 70cm of thickness and lasts from October to May. These features create very good opportunities for the development of the white tourism and winter sports. It is worth mentioning that the climate of Albania is an important natural factor for tourism development.

Albanian Riviera area of 370km2, is the largest lake of the Such a geographical position of Albania entire Balkan Peninsula. The Lake, is considered very favorable for its overall with a maximum depth of nearly 300 development, especially for the tourism. meters, is the deepest lake in the Therefore, Albania is often referred to as and the Lake represents the highest the “gateway to the Balkans”, or “a linking tectonic lake of the Balkan Peninsula. bridge in the Southeastern Europe”. The These lakes are located at the border with most important roads connecting the East the neighboring countries. and the West of the Southeastern Europe have traditionally crossed and currently The coast is one of the main and most cross through Albanian territory. important assets for the tourism industry. The Albanian Adriatic Sea is noted for its sandy and shallow beaches, which are Population and language very suitable for family vacations. The The Albanian population is approximately Ionian coast, also called the “Albanian 3.2 million inhabitants, with a density Riviera”, stretching from Vlora to Saranda, of 113 inhabitants per square meter. The is well-known for its beautiful and Albanian population is generally young attractive coastline, small and intimate and it is distinguished for its vitality. The beaches and above all, the high quality most populated parts of the country of marine waters. This coast is rocky and are the area of the capital city, the port mainly harsh, with craggy mountains that of Durrës and generally the western fall sloping into the sea. lowlands of the country.

Discover Albania 11 Butrinti; (bottom right) National Hero Gjergj Kastrioti Skenderbeu

Albania is a country with a homogeneous like Turkish, Greek, and population. The minorities represent , but it has preserved about 3 percent of the population. The its originality as an unique language. largest one is the Greek minority (located is recognized for its in the southern part of the country, in the two distinct dialects, which are: “Gheg” provinces of , Pogon and Vurg). and “Tosk”. Shkumbini river, which Other minorities are the Macedonians, divides the country into two almost equal located in the area of the Great Prespa parts, is the natural border of these two Lake, Serbian, Roma etc. The largest dialects. Gheg dialect is spoken in the population is concentrated in the cities North, while Tosk is spoken in the South. of Tirana, Durrës, , Shkodra, The Albanian has 36 letters. Vlora, Korça etc. Other cities of tourist importance are Berat, Gjirokastra, Saranda, Kruja and . History The official language is Albanian. It Albania is considered as one of the constitutes a special and original branch of regions with the most ancient population Indo-European family. Albanian language traces in the Balkans and Europe. There is a sequel of the and it’s are precisely the evidences of numerous without doubt one of the oldest languages archaeological findings in different parts spoken in the European continent. Its of the Albanian regions, such as those of vocabulary contains words from other Xara in Saranda, nearby Shkodra, at

12 Discover Albania Mountain, etc., that prove for Although they were under Roman traces of ancient population on Albanian conquestthe Illyrians retained their territory. By studying these archaeological language and traditions for centuries. objects, it has been proved that thefirst “”, the most important trade Albanian settlements have started to be route between and inhabited in the middle of the Paleolithic (Byzantium), passed through the port of period (100,000 to 40,000 years Durrës. BC). Likewise, during the Neolithic The first three Byzantine emperors period (6000 - 2600 BC), it’s indicated (Anastasius , Justin and Justinian I) a much more dense population on were of Illyrian origin. The attacks by Albanian territories. This is noted in the Barbarian migrating tribes (Visigoths, archaeological excavations, carried out Huns, Ostrogoths and ) continued in the area of Korça, where 12 settlements during the and VI century. In 1344, are found belonging to this period. Such Albania was under the rule of the Serbian settlements have also been discovered in Kingdom. After its fall in the war against , Kolonjë, in the valley of the Black in 1389, the Arbëresh principalities River in , in Përmet etc. were created. The Principality of Balshaj The Indo-European population settled was the most important one. The region here at the beginning of the III millennium was open to the Ottoman attacks, which BC. As a result of this merger, a new gradually managed to take Arbëria under population was created in the Balkan the rule. The culmination of the anti- Peninsula (Pelasgians), which preserved Ottoman resistance reached during the the specific cultural and language years 1443-1468, when the Albanian characteristics. national hero Gjergj Kastriot This ancient led the revolt of the Albanians population became against the Ottomans. During the ancestors of the this period, Arbëria turned Illyrians between the into a key factor in the II Millennium and I entire Europe. After the century .C. After its fall formation of a coalition in the year 30 B.C., and of Arbër Feudal in the at the end of three Illyrian- Historical League Roman wars, fell of Lezha, held on under the control of the March 2nd, 1444, latter. After the division of the National Hero, the (395 Gjergj Kastrioti B.C.), Illyria became Skanderbeg, led part of the Byzantine for 25 years the Empire. resistance against

Discover Albania 13 Monument of Indipendence in Vlora

the Ottoman threat. There of Nations”. After a period of political were three Ottoman attacks Kruja, all turmoil in 1924, the country went through of which failed and only 10 years after a bourgeois-democratic revolution and the death of Skanderbeg, in 1478, they immediately after it, the country was led finally managed to capture Kruja. For by the government of Noli. In 1928, more than 400 years, Albania was under the country was declared a monarchy the Ottoman regime. Albanian Resistance under I. The latter pursued a continued during the subsequent periods, policy of rapprochement with Italy and being inspired especially by the Illuminist Great Britain, but without being able to movement of the Albanian National avoid a military occupation of Albania , which emerged in XIX by Italian fascists. On April 7th, 1939, century. Successive revolts and efforts the country was occupied by Mussolini’s reached their peak with the proclamation troops, putting an end to the monarchy of the National Independence on regime that lasted 11 years. In 1943, the November 28th, 1912. The Assembly country was occupied by Hitler’s Nazi of Vlora established the first Albanian forces. The resistance to foreign attacks is government led by . During known as Anti-Fascist National Liberation the First World War, which broke out in Front. The end of World War II brought 1914, Albania turned into a battlefield into force the Stalinist regime of Enver for different occupation troops, such as Hoxha. Austrian-Hungarian, Italian and French For about 50 years, the totalitarian regime troops. The Congress of Lushnja, held in followed a policy of isolation, leaving 1920, aimed to maintain the territorial the country in economic poverty and integrity of Albania after the First World totally isolated from the international War. This Congress proclaimed Tirana community. Its economic policy was as the capital of Albania. In the same based on the principle of “relying on its year, Albania adhered to the “League own forces”, by banning loans and credits

14 Discover Albania from abroad. This situation continued until after the democratic movement, the 1991 when Albania, as a consequence of freedom of religion was restored and all new winds that blew in , the churches and mosques were rebuilt, eventually emerged from isolation. Since as well as many other objects of religion. 1991, Albania holds pluralistic elections. Albania offers several types of religious The Socialist Party, along with its allies, pilgrimages. The most important are those is currently in power since 2013. Since in honor of Shna Nues (St. Anthony) on 13 2009, Albania adhered to NATO as a June at the Church of Lac, the pilgrimage member with full rights. The country is of Abas Ali on 19 August in Tomori now undergoing a series of reforms, which Mountain, the one in honor of St. Mary on aim the integration of Albania into the 15 August in some of the churches across European Community. the country, the pilgrimage in honor of Salltiku in Kruja, etc. Religious faith There are four official religious beliefs in Albania. These belong to the Muslim (Sunni), Orthodox, Catholic and Bektashi. The Muslim belief is widespread across the country. Catholics are concentrated in the northern part of the country, the Orthodox ones are in the south and center of the country, and the Bektashi sect is found in some specific regions such as , Krujë, Elbasan, Mat, Mallakastër, Korçë etc. The right to freedom of religion is guaranteed by the Albanian Constitution. Albania is a secular state where religious authorities are separated from the state. Besides the official religions, it has also followers of other religions as those of Baha’is, Evangelists, Jehovah’s Witnesses, etc. Likewise there are also atheists and non-religious people. Albania became a unique case in Europe in 1967, since all kinds of religions were banned by closing down churches, mosques, religious schools and tekkes. For about 23 years, Albania was the only atheist country in the world. In 1990, Church in Berat; (top) Mosque in Shkodra

Discover Albania 15 NATIONAL HOLIDAYS

January 1 & 2 - New Year March 14 - Summer Day March 22 - Nevruz Day May 1 - International Worker’s Day October 19 - Mother Teresa Beatification Day November 28 - Independence Day November 29 - Liberation Day December 8 - National Youth Day December 25 - Christmas

Religious feasts (according to the respective calendar) are also national holidays: 1. Catholic Easter 2. Orthodox Easter 3. The day of Eid Al Fitr (Eid Fitter) 4. Eid Al Adha

Political structure The Republic of Albania is based on a pluralist democratic system. The highest figure in the country, the President, is elected every five years by the parliament. The parliament is elected every four years by people’s vote and the executive power is exercised by the Council of Ministers, which is chaired by the Prime Minister. Local governments are led by officials elected directly and proportionately. operate more than 60,000 enterprises. Most of these enterprises are based in Eonomy Tirana and in the largest cities of the The Albanian economy is based on country. Similarly, the agricultural the following most important sectors: economy is almost completely privatized construction, hydro energy, agriculture, in over 400,000 small private family garment industry, extractive industry, enterprises located in the countryside. services and transport. In the private sector Regarding mineral reserves, Albania is rich

16 Discover Albania Port of Durres, biggest in Albania in chrome (reserves which are estimated percent of electricity is generated by to rank Albania third in the world after hydropower plants. The largest cascades the Russian Federation and the Republic are over Drin River. There are projects for of South Africa), copper, bitumen, iron, further utilization of these resources for nickel, oil etc. Of a major importance in power generation. Albania are hydro reserves. Albania ranks Very rapid developments have been second in Europe after Norway, regarding observed in recent years in the sectors of the hydro reserves per capita. Over 95 construction, transport, trade, tourism, etc.

Discover Albania 17 CHAPTER 1 Albanian Nature

18 Discover Albania Discover Albania 19 Albanian coast Albanian coastline has a considerable length of 450 km, including even the lagoons area. The coast has a particular character because it is rich in varieties of sandy beaches, capes, hidden bays, lagoons, small gravel beaches, sea caves etc. Some parts of the coast are very clean ecologically, which represent in this context unexplored areas, still virgin in the Mediterranean basin

Ionian Coast from Llogara; (bottom right) Phalacrocorax Carbo

he Albanian coast starts in the north at long, distinguished for the high quality Tthe Buna River estuary, which marks of sand. There are 250 sunny days in this the Albania-Montenegro border. Precisely area and the days with a temperature here, as a result of the river’s alluvions, it above 200C normally start by the middle is formed the small island of Franz Joseph of May. The beach is suitable for family which, depending on the flow, turns also vacations and is frequented in general by into a peninsula. This is an important vacationers of north Albanian areas. Near natural object, especially because of the Velipoja beach is situated the lagoon of presence of waterfowls and vegetations Viluni with an area of 130 hectares. This contained therein. Its vegetation is of the is a very important natural for type of coppice, dominated by poplar the breeding of waterfowls; 183 species trees, alder and other timbers. Woodcock of are found in it. There it is situated prevails, regarding the birds. Franz Joseph also a legally hunting area of 700 hectares is a very favourable place for those who near Velipoja beach. love nature and prefer to stay away from Shëngjini Beach is another sandy beach the noise. The estuary of Buna River is part in the district of Lezha. It is situated only 8 of RAMSAR International Convention. km away from the city of Lezha. Shëngjini The country’s northern beach is that of is well-known for the quality of its sand. Velipoja, situated 22 km away from This beach has 200 to 300 sunny days Shkodra. Velipoja is a sandy beach, 4 km a year. In the north of Shëngjin, near to

20 Discover Albania the Renci hills, lies protected from the Rodoni to Bishti i Pallës. The Cape of winds, the wonderful beach called “Rana Rodoni, which limits the bay from the e Hedhun”. Lezha Coast has an excellent north, is of great natural beauty that enters natural ecosystem for the development of the sea at the length of 7.5 km. Cape ecotourism, observation of the birds, etc. of Rodoni is one of the most interesting The area of Drini River estuary as a result places of the Albanian coast for practicing of the wind direction, it is very suitable for underwater diving “surfing”. At Drini estuary is located the The beaches of Lalëzi Bay are sandy, System of some of which are surrounded by a belt of Kune-Vain lagoons, where many natural vegetation of coniferous forests. It waterfowls nets. Two lagoons are is worth to refer the beaches of Shën Pjetri located here, the one of Ceka with an and Rrushkull, which are distinguished for area of 235 hectares and the one called the purity of sea waters. Merxhani with an area of 77 hectares. Durrësi beach, which is only 39 km The biggest surprise for tourists is the away from Tirana, the capital of Albania, Kunë sandy island, with an area of 125 is the largest and most populated beach hectares, on the right of the of Drini of the country. It is 6 km long with a River. The Kunë Island is covered with considerable wide sand belt. The sea lush vegetation of hygrophytes. Green depth increases gradually, thus making Mediterranean shrubs grow there, such as this beach suitable for children and family lianas, willows, ash, etc. In this area you holidays. The position of Durrësi bay can find 227 species of plants. Regarding makes it very protected by the winds. In the wild life, we can mention wild ducks, Durrësi beach are situated the biggest pheasants, woodpeckers, phalacrocorax number of tourist facilities like hotels, carbo, heron, anas Penelope, etc. In this motels, villas complex, bars, restaurants, lagoon system are found 70 species of discos, etc. Over the last few years, this birds; 22 reptiles, from 33 throughout beach has not only been frequented Albania; 6 species of amphibians, from from the capital daily tourists, but also 15 species in total in Albania; and 23 species of . In the south of In this lagoon system Kunë, in Tale area, are found 70 species of are located other less birds; 22 reptiles, from frequented beaches by the 33 throughout Albania; tourists. 6 species of amphibians, One of the most attractive from 15 species in total areas of the Albanian in Albania; and 23 species Adriatic is Lalëzi Bay, which of mammals extends from the Cape of

Discover Albania 21 from tourists coming from Kosovo and Macedonia. In the north of the city of Durrës, on the foot of its hills, is located the famous beach of Currila, where sea waters are deep blue and the beach is well protected from hot winds coming from the land. The beaches of Golemi and that of Mali i Robit are almost an extension of the beach of Durrës, as they have common features. Here you can find the presence of pine forests, which decorate the seaside. Same as in Durrësi beach, the number of tourist facilities is quite large here (hotels, complexes, restaurants). Regarding the beaches belonging to Kavaja District, it is worthy to mention Karpen and Spillenjë beaches, which are distinguished for the high quality of sand, pure sea waters and dense vegetation of pine trees (Spillenja beach). Recently, investments are made in this area in order to create the conditions for accommodation of tourists. The Lagoon of Karavasta The Cape of Lagji closes Durrës bay on the south. It is a natural place suitable importance. Divjaka forest stretches from for divers. Nearby can be found small mouth of river up to the estuary beaches of rare beauty, such as Bardhori of Shkumbini river. The Lagoon has an and Gjenerali beach. Bardhori is a rocky area of 4,330 hectares, being the largest beach, while Gjeneral is surrounded by lagoon in the entire Albanian coast. It is lush vegetation. It looks like a natural one of 12 National Parks of Albania and amphitheatre. Both are isolated beaches, it has a special importance in terms of very quiet ones, with high quality marine its biodiversity. The Lagoon of Karavasta waters. is the western extreme point in Europe, Undoubtedly, one of the most beautiful where the (pelicanus natural places of the Albanian coast is crispus) can nest. Here can be found the beach of Divjaka and the Lagoon 5 percent of its world population. It is of Karavasta. Divjaka sandy beach, due to these qualities, that since 1994, the forest and the lagoon constitute the Lagoon is under the protection of a natural complex with a greattourist international . It’s a

22 Discover Albania umbrella, are very noticeable. The forest has different categories of plants ranging from herbs to high woods. It is noted for the firs, ashes, etc. Divjaka’s Beach sand has a significant content of iodine and temperatures over 200C starting from the second half of May to continue until beginning of October. This is an area where beach activities are combined with ecotourism.

The Lagoon of Karavasta The very interesting experience watching these The estuary of Vjosa River, located further pelicans, while coming by boat to the in the south, constitutes a protected island in the lagoon where they usually natural area in both sides of the river sit. This ecosystem is home to 210 species called the area of Pish Poro Fier and Vlora. of birds, 12 species of mammals and This is a natural area with coastal pines, 16 species of reptiles. The waters of the sandy secluded beaches and favourable lagoon, which reach a maximum depth nesting location for aquatic birds. of 1.5 meters, are rich in fish, where the In the south of Vjosa estuary is located main catches are mullet and eel, which the Lagoon of Narta, with an area of are offered in many restaurants at Divjaka 4,180 hectares, being the second largest beach. The National Park vegetation of lagoon in Albania. The belt of the land, Divjaka is known for its unique beauty which separates the lagoon from the and freshness. The coniferous surfaces sea, is covered by a pine forest. Narta prevail here, such as soft and wild pine. Lagoon is another natural ecosystem The pines with large crown, shaped as an with possibilities for development of

Discover Albania 23 Beach and Karaburun Peninsula

ecotourism, poultries observation, fishing, Vlora etc. It represents the second largest Vlora is the second biggest harbour of the lagoon in Albania regarding the presence country and one of the most important of waterfowls. Narta lagoon is home to tourist places, which mainly offers the 195 species of poultries. Only during the product “sun & sea”. The area near winter season, 48,700 water birds build the town, along the beaches of Vlora here their nests. They constitute 23 percent bay, is distinguished for the new and of the winter birds that come in Albania. modern hotels and other facilities such Thousands of different ducks arrivals as bars, restaurants, disco-clubs etc. are noticed. There are also present the This is one of the most intensive tourist whitetail eagle, flamingos, pilgrims hawk, areas of the country. The tourist area the black claws falcon, etc. The area of starts immediately in the south of the Narta is well-known for its handicraft city, across the small, rocky beaches production of high quality wine. In the of Vlora bay. These are beaches with a future, natural tourism in the lagoon very interesting configuration. In front can be combined with the “wine tour” of these beaches lies the Karaburun produced here. In the waters of lagoon are Peninsula, the largest peninsula of grown various types of fishes, such as eel the coast and also , that and bass of Narta. is also the largest island of Albania.

24 Discover Albania It is also said that Julius Caesar sank the ships that its troops brought during the pursuit of Pompey. A suitable area for diving and observing the different algae is the one called “Cold Water”, while Zhironi beach is well-known for the presence of green and black algae, etc. In the west, Vlora bay is closed by the peninsula of Karaburun, the largest peninsula in Albania about 16 km long and 4.5 km wide. Karaburun west coast is a spectacular one, with high and fragmented shores, small bays and beaches. In the north of peninsula is to be visited the , which is the largest marine cave in the country. It has a depthof 30 , a height of 18 meters and a width of 12 meters. These Orikum Beach and Karaburun Peninsula dimensions allow the entrance of the boats into the cave. The cave name is This configuration makes the beaches in the memory of an Ulqin sailor in the of Vlora bay quite protected from the XVII century, who used to sail in these winds. Jonufri beaches are located in waters. Regarding the small beaches this area of Vlora bay, which stretch to of Karaburun, it should be mentioned Dukat stream, close to the small town the bay of the Bear, Dafina and Grama of Orikum. The beach is surrounded by beaches, which are distinguished a hilly area, covered with citrus, which for deep waters, very high quality of contrasts nicely with the blue waters of marine waters and secluded positioning, the sea. completely away from the noise. In south of Vlora’s bay you can visit Nearby Grama beach you will find the Orikum, where recently is established a cave of Slaves. According to the legends, harbour for yachts. The Orikum beach in ancient times, the slaves used to work has a length of 2 km. In this area here and extract stones. On the walls of you can visit also Rrapi and Pana sea Grama beach are found ancient writings caves. All this area can be of interest and it is thought that here was probably a for underwater explorations, because temple of Pelasgian- Dioscuria. Western of archaeological remains and sunken of Karaburun is one of the most attractive ships. Such is the Italian ship “Po” sunk sites of the Albanian coast for those who in 1941 during the Italian - Greek war. love underwater diving.

Discover Albania 25 Near the Peninsula of Karaburun is beaches, wonderful configurations, situated the Island of Sazan, which is mountain slopes and hills lined with the largest island in Albania. It has an area typical Mediterranean vegetation (olives, of 5.7 km2, with a length of 4.8 km and citrus), and typical villages built between a maximum width of 2 km. It is about mountains and sea, that opens in front 12 miles away from Vlora Harbour. In of them. This is the warmest region of antiquity the island was named Saso. The the country, where average January island represents a block with harsh rocky temperature is 100C and 250C in July. The shores, especially in the western part of area has 300 days of sunshine. the island. In the southeast of the island From the Pass of Llogara, 1,057 meters is located a pebble beach named Beach above sea level, a magnificent view of of Admiral, which is known for its very the coast opens in front of you, which clean waters of the sea. Sazani represents seems to behold from the plane. Dhraleos a special interest for divers and along beach is the first one in Palace, which has with the Karaburun Peninsula, they a length of 1.5 km. It is one of the most create a real underwater park. After the exotic beaches across the Albanian coast, , the Ionian beaches follow, which is known for its quietness, very also called “the ”, which deep and blue waters and with a very is one of the most beautiful regions of high quality. The beach serves also as a Albania, where the sun meets landing point for air sports, especially for with the depth sea, parachute flights from the Llogara Pass. small rocky and Finally, there is a driving road available to intimate reach the beach.

26 Discover Albania Dhërmi; (bottom left) Road in Llogara

Dhërmi Beach that follows more in drive to the popular beach of Jali. the south of Albania, is one of the most is the main center of the “Upper frequented and important tourist places of Ionian coast”. It is a tourist place, which the entire Albanian coast. The crystal sea is revived during the summer season by waters, secluded beaches, water sports families and young people. The beaches and scuba diving make it much preferred, of Himara are: Spillea, Potami, Llamani, especially by young people. The beaches Livadhja and Filikuri. All of them are being part of Dhërmi are Drimades, Jaliksari, distinguished for deep waters, rocky nature Shkambo and Gjipea. Gjipe beach has and the high quality of sea waters. Before a very beautiful formation - as you walk reaching , you can find beach past the beach, you will see a canyon with and small tectonic bay of Porto Palermo, walls up to 70 meters high, created by a where to be visit the castle of Ali Pasha. stream. Near the beach of Dhërmiu, you Borshi is the longest beach of Albanian will find the Cave of Pirates, where tourists Riviera, stretching to 6km. This beach is can access by boat. There are several surrounded by massive Mediterranean hotels, restaurants, and summer discos plants (olives and citrus plantations). in Dhërmiu beach. “Family Tourism” Family tourism is very popular in the area. is developed in the entire area and the On the road to Saranda, you can visit the surrounding areas, offering to tourists beaches of Bunec, Kakome and Krorëz houses for rent. is located 8 km to (up to 3 km long), distinguished for their the south of Dhërmi. From Vuno you can rare beauty and the clear crystal waters.

Discover Albania 27 The Lagoon of Butrinti; (top right) Saranda; (bottom right) Venetian Fortress in

The city of Saranda is the largest is Butrint, which is part of UNESCO inhabited center of the “Albanian Riviera” heritage, located 18km south of the city. In and one of the most important tourist Saranda, you will find the small beaches sites of the country, preferred historically of Central, Pllaka and Liman. Usually, the by newlyweds, who come to Saranda tourists who prefer sea, travel on the south for their honeymoon. The city and the of the city, to the most frequented beach area around it, offer a network of hotels, of , which is located between starting from 5-star hotels to “budget the peninsula with the same name and travellers”, as well as houses for rent. The Butrinti lagoon. In front of Ksamil, lies the city has a very favourable geographical island of Corfu; close to Ksamil beach position, as it is located only 9km away you will find 4 small islands, completely from Corfu island. The ferries provide covered by green Mediterranean daily trips from Corfu to Saranda, making vegetation. Their total area amounts to 8,9 Saranda an attractive place frequented hectares. In Ksamil, you will find several by European and international tourists hotels and restaurants. coming from Corfu. An important place Another important ecosystem of tourist due to natural and archaeological beauty values, is the Lagoon of Butrinti, which

28 Discover Albania is also called a lake because of its tectonic origin. It has an area of 16km2 and it has access to the sea through Vivari Channel, 3.6km long. Maximum depth of the lake is 20 meters. Due to favourable wind direction, it is a very suitable place for those who want to practice the sport of sailing. Regarding its fauna, some of the most important species are: the wild duck, the black neck duck, fulica atra, eagle of the field, Falco tinnunculus, the white tail eagle, the Mediterranean horseshoe (Rhinolophus euryale) and the bat (Myotis capaccinni). The lagoon also shelters many amphibians and reptiles, which grow in the rred area, located in the north-eastern shore of the lake. To be mentioned is the frog of , a species found only in Albania. The ecosystem is also suitable for the observation of birds, of which 90 species are aquatic birds only in the forest of the archaeological area, near the shores of the lake. The southern extreme point of the Albanian coast up to the Cape of Stillo is composed by low, completely virgin beaches.

Discover Albania 29 Lakes and Rivers Albania is very rich in underground and ground waters. The hydrographic network is composed of 11 main rivers which, combined with their branches and big streams with running waters, reach the number of 152

Shkodra

esides the great lakes, there is a by a source of water, which was always Blarge number of small lakes, five kept closed and was opened only when big artificial lakes and several water women went there to getwater. One irrigation reservoirs and also 200 sources evening, while a woman was getting of underground water, with a capacity water at the fountain, she received the of 200 /second each. As mentioned news that her husband had returned home above, Albania has parts of the three most from immigration. She was so happy important lakes of the Balkan Peninsula, that she left quickly and forgot the water which are of big values and tourist source open. The water flowed during the importance. entire night and in the morning Shkodër In the north-western part of the country, lake was created. at the border with Montenegro, lays the The shores of the lake are very attractive Lake of Shkodër, which is the largest lake and divers. The northern part of it is of the Balkan Peninsula. It has an area of low, while the southern part at Tarabosh 368 km2, from which 149 km2, and 57 mountain foot is rocky and high. Here km of shore belong to the Republic of are to be visited the two most important Albania. tourist sites, Shiroka and Zogaj. An interesting legend explains the Sunbathing, water, fishing and rowing are formation of the lake according to the main activities on the Lake of Shkodër. which, it used to be a small stream fed Shirokë Beach has 250-260 sunny days

30 Discover Albania a year. In addition to these values, this Peninsula. Some of the activities to be lake represents a very important natural exercised include swimming, motor ecosystem. It shelters 270 species of boats, diving, water skiing, as well as sport birds, which constitute 87 percent of the fishing. In addition to the hotels built on entire ornifauna (poulty) of Albania. In the shore of the lake, family tourism is this lake, migrate in winter 24 thousand traditionally well known here, especially of water birds. This site offers very good in area. opportunities for nature lovers and Prespa Lake is located in the south- observation of poultry. The lake waters are eastern part of Albania. Located 850 rich in fish. There are 45 species of fish, meters above the sea level, it represents of which the most important are carp, the highest tectonic lake of the Balkan shtojza, eel etc. Peninsula. It is composed of the Great

Lake Ohrid is one of the most important natural tourist sites of Albania. It lies in the south-eastern part of Albania, up to 695 meters above the sea level, with an area of 358 km2. 1/3 of its surface belongs to Albania. A special characteristic of the lake is its depth of 289 meters, which makes it the deepest lake of the entire Balkan Peninsula. is 4 million years old. Its waters are known for high clarity, up to 22 meters of depth. It conserves in its waters a very old fauna and in this context, it may be considered a relict lake. Here lives the fish of Koran, a Lake Ohrid kind of that is found only in this lake in the entire world. Koran dish is also well Prespa Lake, with an area of 285km2. known in this area. There are 17 species It is a contact point between Albania, of fish, more than 30 mollusks as well as Macedonia and Greece. Small Prespa Ohrid sponge, which are found only in Lake lies in the territory of Albania and Lake Ohrid and in . Albania Greece, with an area of 44 km2, out of has a lake shore of 30 kilometres, with which 38.8 km2 belong to Albania. several suitable areas for tourism, such The waters of Great Prespa Lake are as Lin, Pojskë, Pogradec and Tushemisht. known for their high clarity, up to 20 Since ancient times, Ohrid Lake is known meters of depth. The rugged character as a place for vacation. Thus, the parents of the lake shore makes Prespë a very of Emperor Justinian used to rest in Lin attractive place. During the summer, as a

Discover Albania 31 result of moderate temperatures, you can Mountain tourism sunbathe and swim in the lake. Another Besides the seacoast, inland, Albania important tourist potential is ecotourism. offers countless opportunities for You can find 11 types of fish in Prespa practicing other types of natural tourism. Lake. Most important of which are carp, Being a rich territory in mountains and eel and the common bleak. Fauna is heights, Albania is a very suitable country represented by pink pelican, the eagle, for the development of mountain tourism. the Dalmatian Pelican, lutra, the bear This is the type of white tourism (activities etc. This area shelters 12 species of that take place during the cold season of reptiles and 56 species of plants. As the year) and green tourism (activities held a result of poultry nesting, tourist can during the warm season of the year). enjoy watching. Due to the significant layers of snow The most suitable place for this activity and suitable steep slopes, there are is a place called “Beli Hill”. Prespa great opportunities for practicing the National Park constitutes the largest skiing sport. The main area for practicing park of the country. Rural tourism is winter sports is the mountainous spot of developed in this area, where tourists Voskopoja in Korçë District, 20 km west of and visitors can be accommodated Korça. Voskopoja is located 1.160 meters in the houses of villages of the area above the sea level and the snow layer (Zaroshke, , Goricë e Vogël, there lasts for up to three months. There Gollomboc, Goricë e Madhe etc.), which is a “ski platform” in Voskopoja, where are rented to tourists. the races of National Ski Championship take place. Other places where the winter Albania is a country rich in rivers. They sports are practiced, are the Albanian Alps create numerous valleys with spectacular in the North of the country, in the spots of view and offer opportunities for Razma, Boga, , Shishtaveci in Kukësi development of water sports. We should District, Grabova in Gramshi District, mention here the Osumi canyons in Dardha in Korça District, Dajti in Tirana Çorovodë, Gradec canyon in River, District, etc. Këlcyra gorge in Vjosa river, the canyons The territory of Albania offers numerous of Bënça in the area, the Valleys opportunities for trekking activities and of and in the Albanian Alps, mountain climbing. These sports can be the valleys of Tomorricë, Skorana gorge practiced in the whole territory of Albania, on Erzeni river, etc. You will also find from north to south of the country. Quite waterfalls with magnificent view, such as attractive is the trekking program called that of Grunas in Theth, in Albanian Alps, “Çika Trekking”, which takes place in the that of Shoshan in the valley of Valbona, south-western area of the country and the waterfall of Kokotraf in Konispol area, goes through the valley of Dukat, Çika the waterfall of in Kurvelesh etc. mountain range, Kurveleshi area and ends

32 Discover Albania Albanian Alps in the Ionian coast. This trekking takes jumpers from this site, land in the beach place along the itineraries Dukat-Tërbaç- of Palasë, making this passage from the Vranisht-Kuç-Kudhës-Qeparo. Other mountain to the sea an unforgettable areas suitable for trekking and mountain experience. Llogara Pass is a place where climbing are the Albanian Alps in such several international events are held for spots as: Vermosh, Theth, Razma, Boga, such activities. Other sites for practicing Valbona, Tomori mountain extending to such a sport are Morava, in the District of the districts of Berat and Skrapar; Vithkuqi, Korçë, Dajti in Tirana etc. Voskopoja, Drenova in Korça District, Mountain relief is very attractive for Guri i Kamjes in Pogradec, Llogara in outdoor camping and staying in tents Vlora District, Korab Mountain in Dibër, during the warm seasons. Some of the Gjinari in , valley camping areas are: Biza in , in Dropulli area, in Gjirokaster District, Razma in the Alps, Llogara in Vlora Borsh-Zhulat route that goes through District, in the forests of Hotova firs in Kurvelesh, etc. Albania offers excellent Përmet District, in the coniferous forests of opportunities for practising air sports, due Gërmenj in Kolonja Disttrict, in Kurvelesh to its suitable topographic and natural Region in the south of the country, Qafë- conditions. The best spot for practicing this Shtama Park in Kruja District, that of Lura sport is Llogora Pass, up to 1.052 meters in Dibër District, etc. above sea level, where the direction of the You can enjoy fishing in the numerous wind is quite favourable. The parachutes rivers and streams in Albania. They are

Discover Albania 33 perfect for fishing the cold water trout and 400,000 years ago, were found in this other fish species of warm waters. The cave. In the entire European continent are most suitable areas of natural beauty for known only five such caves. the fishing activity are the Valbona valley, Another attractive cave to visit is Thethi stream, Shala river in the Albanian Pirrogoshi cave, located in Skrapari Alps, the upper valley of Vjosa etc. District in the south of the country, which In the attractive valleys of numerous rivers represents the largest cave in Albania. It and streams you can practice different is located on the right slope of Çorovoda water sports like rafting and kayaking. stream, in Radesh village, at a height of Such sports are mainly practiced in the 450 meters above the sea level. The entry upper valleys of Osum along Qafëzez- to the cave is 5 meters wide, while its Mican-Çorovodë route. During this length reaches 1.500 meters. The most route, you will see the wonderful Osumi attractive part of it is the wide corridor. The canyons. Another route is the one that cave ends up in a deep well, populated by crosses the Bridge of Dash – the Lengarica a colony of . canyon in Vjosa valley. Other regions Other interesting caves are those of where you can practice these sports are Jubani, Zhyla, Murriqi and Pusi in Shkodër Devoll Valley in the south, the Valleys of and Alps area, the cave of Lekë Petë in Shala and Valbona in the Albanian Alps, Kurvelesh, etc. etc. As a result of the widespread limestone Flora and fauna formations in the territory of Albania, there Albania is considered a country rich in is a development of various forms, flora. You will find 3250 types of plants which has enabled the existence of many in Albania, which constitute 29% of the karst caves of great interest for the tourism, flora of the entire European continent, or otherwise known as Speleology. You 11% of which are endemic plants. Half can find 35 such caves only in the region of the endemic plants are found in the of Shkodër. A cave of particular tourism north-eastern and northern part of the interest is “Pëllumbas cave”, also called country. From the fund of vegetation, 489 the “Black Cave”, to be found in the of the plants are typical for the Balkan southeast of Tirana on the panoramic Peninsula. The Mediterranean shrubs gorge Skoranë, created by River. It is cover 35 % of the forest. The coniferous located 25 km southeast of Tirana, 10-35 trees are spread along the Adriatic meters wide, 15-40 meters high and up coast, especially between the estuary of to 300 meters long. The cave is in a very and Seman rivers, precisely good condition. Besides the numerous in Karavasta lagoon and on both sides of stalactites and stalagmites, is worth Vjosa estuary, in Pish Poro in Fier and the mentioning that theskeletons of the cave one in Vlora area. In this area you will find bear (ursus speleus), who lived around areals of soft and wild pines. The surfaces

34 Discover Albania Pëllumbas cave with black pine are found in areas situated are: the brown bear, wolf, fox, lynx, the 600-1000 metres above the sea level, in marten, the weasel, the wild swine, roe, the zones of Puke, Mirdite, , wild goat, wild rabbit, the squirrel, the Tomorricë, Kolonjë, etc. Worth to be otter, the badger. Among the endangered mentioned are the beautiful fir areals, species are: the jackal, the marten and the such as “Hotova Fir” in Përmet area and fir skunk. of Bozdoveci in Korçë District. Both areas The avifauna of Albania consists of 350 are National Parks. Regarding the tree species, among which are the mountain coverage, the main tree is the oak, which eagle, the pelican, wild ducks and geese, grows 400 metres above the sea level the heron, the swan, the crane, falco and up. Beeches are found especially in tinnunculus, the owl, etc. the northern and north-eastern part of In the waters of Albanian seas are found the country. There are 12 National Parks 260 species of fish, which belong to in Albania, the largest of which is that of the family of the Mediterranean fishes. Prespë, with an area of 22,00 hectares. The “Mediterranean seal” (in Karavasta These areas are important for tourism lagoon), a very rare species, can be found facilities. here. The world of reptiles is composed of The Albanian Fauna is noted for its variety, turtles, snakes, wall lizard, salamanders, which is due to Albania’s contrasting etc. Albania has several hunting reservoirs, landscape and the rugged terrain. Some where you can practice the “sport of of the species found in Albania hunting”.

Discover Albania 35 36 Discover Albania CHAPTER 2 Cultural Heritage

Discover Albania 37 The Archaeological Park of Antigonea; (bottom right) Monastery of St. Mary in

Archaeological parks

Antigonea The Archaeological Park of Antigonea is his first wife, Antigonea. located in the region of Gjirokastra, in the Isamber, a French historian, visited area of Lunxhëria. To get there you should the castle on the hill of Jerma in 1880. take the road from Gjirokastra going He thought that was the ancient city through Asim Zeneli-Krinë-Tranoshisht of . In 1930, the British villages. Near Saraqinisht village are archaeologist Nicholas Samond found the ruins of this archaeological site, recognized Pyrrhus’s typical construction which has the status of an Archaeological technique in the surrounding walls of Park. Antigonea is located 14 km far from Jerma. He proposed the identification Gjirokastra. of Jerma with the city of Epirus Antigonea was founded by Pyrrhus, the Hekatonpedon. During the Second World King of Molossoid, in 295 B.C, and it War, the Greek archaeologist Evangelis, became an important economic, social, carried out some limited archaeological cultural and political centre. By the end of excavations in this place. He had found century III and at the beginning of century traces ofburns and he related them to the II B.C., it took the form of a polis (city- ruins of the Roman army of Emil Paul. state). Pyrrhus named the city in honour of In 1964, the Albanian archaeologist

38 Discover Albania Dhimosten Budina started the get there, you have to go through Vlora- archaeological excavations in Jerma hill, Drashovica-Mavrove-Kote-Vajzë route. in front of the castle of Gjirokastra. This archaeological site had a fortified After 5 years of excavations, he discovered acropolis around 220 metres long. the house of a coppersmith of the ancient The upper rocky plateau, sloping different city, where he found some round thin in its sides, forced the builders to adapt plates of bronze in the shape of small the walls, the construction technique and coins. All of them were stamped with their direction to this site. The wall found the same Antigonian inscription, which there is 28 meters long and 8 meters in the meant “it belongs high. The builders of these ancient works to the Antigonians”. The archaeologist shaped the rock were the polygonal Budina thought that these stamps, which blocks were placed. One of the entrance are known since antiquity as PSEFOI and gates in acropolis had the form of an arch; served to vote, showed clearly that he its dimensions are 2.2 meters long and had discovered the city of Antigonians, 0.12 meters wide. The main attraction for Antigonea. Professor Budina led up to 25 visitors is the stadium of . expeditions to discover Antigonea. Among the objects that can be visited by tourists The archaeological park of Apollonia are the remains of fortified walls, the Apollonia is one of the most important ancient nymph of Acropolis, the leather archaeological sites of the country and workshop, the main gate of the city, Stoa at the same time, one of the most visited or the promenade, the housing complex places by the tourists. It is located 12 of columns, the mosaic, etc. kilometres far from the city of Fier. The city of Apollonia was founded at the The archaeological park of Amantia beginning of century VII B.C by the The Archaeological Park of Amantia is colonies of Corinth and Corcyra. The located in the region of Vlora. In order to first records of their presence have been documented around the year 588 B.C. The city was named in honour of the God of . Among 24 cities all around the Mediterranean world that held this name in the ancient times, Apollonia of Illyria was the most important one and played a major role as a

Discover Albania 39 trade mediator between the Helens and area of 20km2. The coins of Byllis were Illyrians. Apollonia was at that time a big different from those of Apollonia, one side and important city near Aoos (Vjosa) River. of which showed the head of Zeus. The Its population was estimated to be 60,000 first one to identify Byllis was a British inhabitants, a record for antiquity. named Holland, in one of its publications Apollonia preserved its grandeur even in 1815. The first archaeological data on during the Roman period. The Apollonian the park were published by Austrian Karls School of Fine Arts was well-known in the Patch. The first archaeological excavations ancient world. When Julius Caesar was were carried out in 1917-1918 by the murdered in Rome during a conspiracy in Austrian archaeologist Prshniker, while the Senate, his nephew Octavian Augustus the Albanian expeditions took place in studied philosophy in Apollonia. Visitors 1978- 1991 by professor Papajani. The can visit a series of objects, among which walls of Byllis are 2,250 meters long and we can mention the impressive wall of they surround a very large surface of land. Agonothets, the theatre of Apollonia, the The wall has a triangular shape and it is promenade, the monastery of Shën Meria, adorned with 6 gates. etc. The archaeological park of FIniqi The archaeological park of Bylis The Archaeological Park of Finiqi is This park is located in the region of located at a distance 8 km far from the Mallakastra, near Village. It was coastal city of Saranda, and nearly 20 km founded in 350 B.C. Pliny considered far from the border with Greece. Named it as a Roman colony, while according Phoenika, it has been the capital city of to Stephanus Byzantinus it was Kaonia in Epirus. This archaeological founded by Neoptolemus, the site is rich of archaeological son of Achilles (this way objects, which date back from Byllis takes an Homeric the classical period up to origin). Byllis itself the Byzantine period, constituted a and are located in “canyon” a still untouched withan landscape. Evidences of many ancient sources (, Strabo, Titus Livius, Ptolemy and later Procopius and Hierokli) describe the great

40 Discover Albania Column in Bylis wealth of the city, especially during the Hellenistic period between century III and II B.C, when the city played an important role in the League of Epirus. In general, it had good relations with the (even though it did not offer assistance as some other cities to Philip V and later to Perseus of Macedonia during the conflict with Rome) and organized within its walls the signing of the treaty that gave an end to the , known as the “Peace of Phoinike”. The prosperity of the city continued certainly during the imperial period, over which there is now a lot of archaeological The Port of Oriku was evidence. a very important site, During the Byzantine period, the city especially during the continued its normal life for about ten period of civil war between centuries. Procopius documented the Caesar and Pompey. It is fact that Justinian was highly interested thought that sunken ships in important urban interventions. Turkish dating from this period are invasion, for which Ugolin found found under the waters of archaeological evidence that showed a this gulf violent conquest, brought an end to the old history of the city, which remained later a small village at the foot of the city of Oriku. Acropolis hill; Finiqi that still exists. The main object to be visited in this Archaeological Park is the Theatre of The archaeological park of Orikum Oriku (which, in fact, is identified simply It is located near the small city of Orikum, with a fountain by many archaeologists). in the Southern part of the gulf of Vlora. It was built in centuries III-II B.C. and has It was mentioned for the first time by the a capacity that ranges from 400 to 600 Greek geographer and historian Skylaksi spectators. in century VI-V B.C. in his work “The The Port of Oriku was a very important Sailing” as the city of Oriku, a marine port site, especially during the period of civil in the Ionian and Adriatic Sea. According war between Caesar and Pompey. It is to the legend, after the destruction of Troy, thought that sunken ships dating from this the Pelasgian tribe of Eubeas returned to period are found under the waters of this the lands of their fathers and founded the gulf.

Discover Albania 41 The Archaeological Park of Butrint; (bottom) Gjirokastra UNESCO sites Albania has three main sites that are (the God of Health, of the century II part of UNESCO world heritage, which B.C.), the theatre with 1,500 seats that are also among the most visited places dates back from century III B.C., the by foreign tourists. One of them is the font with the mosaics (a Paleochristian ancient city of Butrint, which lies monument), nympheus, bathrooms, the south of Albania, 18 kilometres from gate of the lake, the gate of the lion, the the coastal city of Saranda having a Venetian castle of Ali Pasha, etc. pretty good position in front of the The city of Gjirokastra with its specific Greek island of Corfu. Part of UNESCO architecture, is part of UNESCO since since 1992, the city has the status of 2005. It is built in the Eastern part an Archaeological Park representing at the same time a National Park, which is also part of the RAMSAR Convention. Butrint is without any doubt, the most important archaeological site of Albania and one of the most visited touristic spots in the country. Tourists can visit a variety of objects, among which we can mention the temple of Asclepius

42 Discover Albania of the Wide Mountain. Because of its architecture, Gjirokastra is also known as “the Stone City” or “city of a thousands stairs”. The most important attractions in Gjirokastra are the high stone houses, which look like small castles and they seem to be architectonic monumental complexes. The main attraction is the castle of the city, also known as the castle of Argyro. It was after this name that the city was named “Argjirokastro” in 1336. In the premises of the castle is Gjirokastra Old Bazaar also found the Museum of Guns; in Gjirokastra. The Albanian contemporary which are exposed guns dating from writer and sometimes candidate for the the Paleolithic period until World Nobel Prize in literature, , War II. The castle of Gjirokastra is the was also born in Gjirokastra. His house largest one in the entire country. Among is also found in this city. other things, it serves as a place for organizing the National Folk Festival, which takes place usually once every four The main attraction is the years. Gjirokastra is castle of the city, also the birthplace of the known as the castle of former communist Argyro. It was after this dictator of Albania, name that the city was . His named “Argjirokastro” house, today is in 1336. The castle of the Ethnographic Gjirokastra is the Museum of largest one in the entire country

Discover Albania 43 Mangalem, Berat; (bottom) Gorica

The city of Berat, part of the elite of UNESCO world heritage since 2006, is located at a distance of 120 kilometres far from Tirana. It is one of the oldest cities of Albania, nearly 2415 years old. Berat is one of the most prominent examples of the traditional architecture in the country, as well as a treasure of our national history and culture. The major tourist attractions are the characteristic neighbourhoods of Mangalem, Gorica and Kala, where you can see the facades of the houses with numerous windows placed one above the places, an important part of the oral world other. For this reason, Berat is also known heritage of mankind (of UNESCO) is also as “the City of thousand Windows”. In the Albanian iso-polyphony. This old way the city is found a complex of Byzantine of singing without musical instruments and post-Byzantinechurches, the museum (with the exception of flute) in the area of of paintings (the famous Albanian (a mountainous village in the area iconography), as well as monuments from of Himara), is widespread in the regions the Ottoman period. Despite of its age, the of Southern Albania, such as Tepelena, Castle of Berat continues to be inhabited Gjirokastra, Vlora and culminating in even today. Besides the above mentioned Himara in the Ionian coast.

44 Discover Albania Historical Center of Korçë;

Monuments of culture Albania is a country with an early two storey buildings, narrow alleys and a civilization. This is shown by the construction style that attracts the attention prehistoric settlements, archaeological of visitors. Centuries ago, the bazaar has sites with Illyrian, Hellenic and Roman been a place for the exchanges between styles and influences, the numerous merchants, which came not only from Byzantine and especially post-Byzantine Albania, but also from Turkey, Greece, churches and also the monuments that Trieste and Venice. It was noted for several date back to Ottoman and Venetian inns located next to each other, where period. With its millennial history and Elbasan and Manastir Inns distinguished a culture, Albania offers all the possibilities lot. They served as dormitories. to visit the traces of early architecture, as - Historical Center of Korçë; Korçë old well as new monuments belonging to later neighbourhoods (quarters 1, 2, 11 & 12) periods throughout Albania. are located in the east of the city. Old Some of the most important monuments houses and the cobbled alleyways make are: these neighbourhoods an interesting area - Bazaar of Korçë - The Bazaar is a place to be visited. of early historical, cultural and artistic - National Museum of Medieval Art - values. It is characterized by one and The National Museum of Medieval Art

Discover Albania 45 was opened in 1980. Its assets include characteristic houses of Korça of the early historical, cultural and artistic objects of nineteenth century, which, due to their the medieval period, primarily related architectural values, are declared cultural to the Byzantine and post-Byzantine monuments. The museum is focused on Christian heritage. The museum has about pre-historical data of the South-eastern 200 art objects. zone, starting from the Neolithic period - National Museum of Education: This until the evolved stage of the Iron Age. It museum is located in the building where has about 1,200 exhibits, most of those the first Albanian school was opened on belonging to the Neolithic, Bronze and March 7th, 1887, named “Mësonjëtorja”. Iron Ages. At the stands of the museum, among - Mosque of Iljaz bej Mihrahori is others, there is a photocopy of the first located in the city of Korçë, near the Albanian ABC Book, written by the patriot Bazaar, and it is part of a socio-cultural , and the second ABC construction complex. Its construction Book, written by the Albanian patriot dates back to 1495 and it is named . after its builder Iljaz bej Mihrahori. - Archaeological Museum: The museum This mosque is the first monument of was founded in 1985 and took a broader an Ottoman classical type in Albania and complete form after its reorganization and also the oldest one of the style in 1990. The museum is located in two hall of a dome in our country. After its construction, it was restored 3 more times between the century XVI andXIX. (1562, 1831 and 1887). - House museum of the painter : The house of impressionist painter from Korça, Vangjush Mio, is declared a cultural monument and contains 40 oil paintings, landscapes and still life paintings. Vangjush Mio is the first Albanian painter who opened the first exhibition in Tirana in 1920, while in 1942 he opened his personal exhibition in Bari. - Tumulus of Kamenica: Tumulus of Kamenica is one of the largest discovered so far. Nearly 400 graves and more than 3,500 objects have been identified there. The Tumulus of Kamenica is located in the Bazaar of Korçë extreme southeast of Korçë Basin. Just like

46 Discover Albania Monastery of Shën Prodhromi in Voskopoja the other tumuli in the region, it is located just 3 km away from the city of Korça, in the first belt of the terrace, created belongs to the architectural cross shaped between the field and hilly area around it. churches with a cupola. The inscription The territory around Kamenica Tumulus by the donor of this construction dates also contains several other smaller tumuli, back to century XIV. The interior of almost completely damaged nowdays. As the church is decorated with mural one of the most representative prehistoric paintings, which distinguish for the perfect monuments and the largest of its kind painting, harmonious composition and in the Albanian territory, Tumulus of the masterful use of colours. It carries Kamenica is the cemetery of a rural the typical features of late Palaeologan community that has functioned as such period. Besides the paintings of century for more than seven centuries (from the XIV, the church porch preserves paintings late , around Century XIII of a later period, addressing scenes from B.C, until the developed Iron Age around the Apocalypse of John. It is believed that mid of century VI B.C.) It was excavated they are painted by the Albanian painter in the beginning of 2000s by the Rescue known as Kostandin “the teacher”. Archaeology Group of the International - Shën Mitri Church in Boboshtica Centre for Albanian Archaeology, village is a church with one nave, with in collaboration with the Institute of apses, which was covered with a gable Archaeology in Tirana. roof in a later period. The interior of the - Ristozi Church in village, church is decorated with mural paintings,

Discover Albania 47 dating back to two different periods. The of that time, the one of Kostandin and first layer dates back to the last quarter Athanas Zografi, were requested to paint of century XIV, while the second one to the arcade. centuries XVII – XVIII. - Basilica of Shën Thanas in Voskopoja - Shën Jovani Church in Boboshtica is a construction of basilica type. The village is a building with one nave, with paintings of the church hold the authorship an average size, of the artistic personalities of that time, consisting of a central nave and a porch Kostandin and Athanas Zografi. It is closed on the west side. The floor of the considered one of their most professional church is paved with bricks, surrounded artistic works, carried out in 1745. by lines of small stones. The interior of the - Shën Mëhill Church in Voskopoja is a church is decorated with mural paintings monument of basilica type with relatively of high artistic quality, which represent large dimensions. Its numerous interior the most complete cycle of the life of St. saved mural paintings demonstrate the the Baptist, as well as other scenes adoption of the most prominent features inspired by the . They are of the art of century XVII. classified in the group of post-Byzantine - Church of Shën Mëri in Voskopoja is a paintings. basilica construction, which stands out for - Voskopoja Village (Historic Centre): its monumental values of external part. It a developed cultural centre founded in was part of a social complex of buildings, 1330, where you can find the necessary built at the end of century XVII and at the conditions for mountain tourism. beginning of the century XVIII. The interior - Monastery of Shën Prodhromi in part contains murals, and iconostasis Voskopoja: The church of the Monastery of Shën Prodhromi is an important monument, not only for its historical values as a building of century XVII, but also as a reflection of the cultural and economic prosperity of Voskopoja. It belongs to the Byzantine style, stands out particularly for the mural paintings, which are works of the monk Andon of Shipska. - Shën Koll Church in Voskopoja dates back to century XVIII. The interior of the church is decorated with murals painted by the prominent master David Selenica and his collaborators Kostandin and Kristo. According to the inscription, the painting was completed in 1726. About 24 years later, another famous atelier Church of Shën Mëri in Voskopoja

48 Discover Albania engraved in wood, which show great artistic values and have a special historical significance. The inscription on the murals witnesses the artistic activity of the masters Theodhori, Anagnosti and Sterani from Agrafa, whilesome of the icons are painted by Kostandin Jeromonaku. The painting of the church was finished in 1712. - Shipska is an important centre, which achieved its high economic and cultural development during the centuries XVII - XVIII. Now, instead of the old city, has remained only a small village, about three hours north of Voskopoja. The only proof Shën Mëri Church in Maligrad, Prespa left of its development is the Church of Shën Gjergji. The monument rises above a hill at the entrance of the village. The interior of the church is decorated with murals, which date back to the time of its construction. They are based on an expanded cycle of paintings, inspired by the and New Testament. - Monastery complex of Shën Pjetri and Pavl represents one of the most important monuments of the material culture of in century XVIII (today a village in the southeast of Korçë). This complex includes the cemetery of the Anargyes Saints Cosmas, Damian and Konaks. The monument is an important proof of the Shën Mëri Church in Cercka of Kolonja outstanding architectural, historical and artistic values. Popular artists of the time, with mural painting. The construction such as Kostandin brothers and Athanas characteristics, similar to the church of Shën Zografi and Kostandin Shpataraku decorated Mëhilli, which was built in 1682, are those the interior and are the authors of mural of the second half of century XVII or the paintings, iconostasis and icons. beginning of century XVIII. - Shën Mëri Church is one of the best - Shën Mëhilli Church is one of the oldest preserved monuments in Vithkuq. The and magnificent monuments in Vithkuq, interior of the monument is decorated built in 1682 and painted in 1728.

Discover Albania 49 - Shën Mëri Church (located in the island It dates back to year 6000 B.C. Its interior of Maligrad, in the Great Prespa Lake) is is prevailed by prehistoric wall paintings the most representative monument of the with hunting scenes. area. The are maintained in good - Shën Mëri Church in Cercka of conditions. To reach this monument you Kolonja is located near the small town of have to go there by boat from the village (south). The interior of the church of Pustec. You can contact the people that is decorated with frescoes of high artistic offer this service at the village bar. quality. - Shën Mitri Church in Bezmisht (the - Shën Mëri Church in rises at northern village of Prespa shore, near the the entrance of the village in the south of the border with Macedonia), is an important city of Erseka. It is located outside inhabited monument of century XIV. areas. The village cemetery is found in its - Hermit Cave of Shën Mëri Glluboko courtyard. According to the inscription, the (Bezmisht) is located east of Bezmisht church was painted in 1616. village, on the shore of the lake. The - Shën Marena Monastery is built on a murals are kept in good conditions. The small plateau in the mountainous area of cave is an important expression of the start Mokra, in Pogradec, in the South-Eastern and organization of monastic life on the part of Albania. The Church of Shën Marena shores of Great Prespa lake. represents a basilica and its interior is - Hermit Cave of Evangelism is located covered with frescoes which, according to at the place known as Crnapesh or the inscription, along with the construction Gollomboç, near Pustec village, on the west of the church, are foundations built with the coast of Great Prespa lake. It dates back to expenses of residents of the city of Llënga on the second half of century XIV. October 2nd, 1754. - Shën Mëri Church is a chapel in the - Lower Selca represents a significant centre of Gollomboç village. The interior of archaeological site of the Illyrian period in the church preserves murals of two different the Dasareti province, which, in written stages, which are the expression of artistic documents, is known as the ancient city of activity in the area of Korçë during the late Pelion, where the decisive battle between Byzantine period. and Illyrian leaders - Cave of Tren: The Cave of Tren represents took place. Five monumental tombs lie the rock art of Albanian territory and here, which are almost unique in the entire carries a series of archaeological values. Balkans. The cave is located in the western part - Golik Bridge has survived as a complete of Small Prespë Lake and dates back to monument to this day. It was built in year 6000 B.C. A variety of objects have century XVIII. It is the bridge with two semi- been found there such as paintings, but circular vaults and there is a discharge also ceramic works, which are an asset window between them. The bridge was and real evidence of its early residence. built with carved stones. -

50 Discover Albania Castle of Shkodër

Castle of Shkodër is the main monument - Drishti Castle is located northeast of of the city and almost the main visited Shkodër, on a rocky hill with a powerful object. This medieval fortress retains natural protection that, besides the large today traces of fortification walls from the sloping sites, it is also protected from period of antiquity. The castle is divided Kiri river surrounding it in the north and into 3 yards. The basic form of the castle west; in the south, while at the foot of the is typical of the second half of century hill flows into Kiri a mountain stream. XIV. Inside of this system, we can clearly The castle has small, half circular towers distinguish a number of constructions made by a building technique with thin such as some belonging to the Illyrian walls without girdles. After the invasion period, century IV B.C.; mainly medieval of Drishti by the Turks in 1478, its constructions starting since the Balshaj importance as a city and as a fortress was Dynasty, century XIV; Venetian period weakened and there was a massive fleeing century XV; Turkish period centuries of the population. XVI-XVII; and finally those of Bushatlli - Mesi Bridge is a cultural monument Patriarchy period in the century XVIII. The of the first category. It lies on Kiri River. castle stands out for its well-built orderly The whole area is built with stones and walls, covered, worked and with many paved with cobblestones. It was declared architectural fragments such as cannons a cultural monument of first category in or gun turrets, counterforts, gates, stairs, 1948. The Mesi Bridge, built by Mehmet vault. Pasha Bushati at the end of century XVIII,

Discover Albania 51 is one of the largest and best preserved - Leusë Church was dedicated to St. stone bridges in our country. It is an Mary and it is located in the village with arched bridge, built with over 13 arches the same name, which lies south of of different dimensions, with a length of Përmet city. It is quite well known for its 108m. This bridge is located 8 km far from wooden iconostasis, carved with artistic the city of Shkodër, in Mesi village. craftsmanship. It consists of the central - Mosque of Plumbi is a first category nave, built in 1812, the narthex and the monument, built in 1773 by Mehmet porch. Bushati, an Albanian coming from - Shën Mëri Church in Kosina is an early Bushatllinj tribal family and vizier of monument of the type cross in square Patriarchy of Shkodra at that time. The with a cupola, whose basic features are mosque is located within the city of not clearly formed, especially in the Shkodra, near the fortress of Shkodra. The lower building. The internal part of the mosque represents a unique example church contains murals from two different of classical architecture monuments phases. The first phase goes back to the of the city and an enclosed courtyard, construction of the church, while the covered by a dome with fine arcades and second one dates back to post- Byzantine decorated columns. period. - Stone of Përmet city is a massive 12 m Frashëri Tekke consists of two separate high rock with steep sides. In the upper buildings, which are connected with a part, the rock is flattened in a surface of wall and a vault gateway at its centre. 15mx15m, which preserves the ruins of The building that is located on the right a fortification that date back to century side is in shape of letter L, with an area of IV-VI. At the foot of the cliff, there is a tract 325m2, which expands in three rooms, of ancient period, coffee chimney, cellar and bakery. The similar to the fortifications of century III building on the left side is partly two- B.C. in the valley of Drino. storey with an area of 218 m2. At the - Shën Premte Church is among the distance of 20 meters are two shrines, oldest monuments in the area of Përmet with domes, and separate entrances with and it is one of the best preserved an area of 102 m2. examples of post - Gjirokastra Bazaar is a trade-craft and painting in the south of Albania. It complexes built (reconstructed) in was built in the second half of century centuries XVIII - XIX with unique XVIII. The church is located on the historical, architectural and urban values southern part of the city. It is a basilica for our country and abroad. It played and construction. The interior of the church is still plays an important socioeconomic decorated with murals, which represent role for the historical centre of Gjirokastra an interesting ensemble of post Byzantine city. painting, completed in September 1808. Its position in the centre of the city, the

52 Discover Albania Basilica of Shën Mëhilli, Durrës compositional extension and architectonic worked with limestone-tiles, this hydraulic - decorative aspect, give the complex a building is in the form of a cylinder with a special significance regarding the types diameter of 5 meters, raised 1m from the of Bazaars in our country. This is a first ground, in center of which rises the mouth category monument and it is located of the Well for receiving water. The area in the town of Gjirokastra, which was around the mouth of the stone cylinder is declared a world cultural heritage by paved with cobbles, with cross fall at the UNESCO in July 2005. Its design is radial, sides. You can reach the square around the where from the Bazaar Pass, four main mouth of the pit, by climbing on a three- roads open, which serve as a connection legged ladder. They lead to a narrow and with the residential areas. Located as a short cobbled street. distinct urban center, it has an organic - Libohova Castle is on a rocky connection with theinhabited areas. Its platform in the eastern city of Libohova, urban scheme of significant radial trend Gjirokastra. The hill rising on the eastern for a better interconnection, dates back to side has a favourable position and century XVII. On the contrary, the Bazaar dominates the castle. It is thought to constructions belong to a later time, have functioned as a protected building. centuries XIX and XX. However, the castle retains all the typical - Sofratika Well, although not in working building characteristics of Ali Pasha. conditions, is preserved almost complete This castle, together with its surrounding and shows clearly its function. Entirely Saraj, was built by Ali Pasha for his sister,

Discover Albania 53 Shaninshanë. hectares makes it the biggest city of the - Shën Mëri Monastery is located Late Antiquity period in our country, after on village in Dropulli region Dyrrahu. The castle dates back to century (Gjirokastra) and presents specific features IV B.C. regarding external decorative architectonic - The Castle in the city of Durrës; the formulation. Four columns, with capitals largest fortified city in the central coastal carved with plant motifs, have created a Albania was Durrës, founded by settlers square central core, covered with a dome coming from Corcyra and Corinth around on a high drum. The church was painted 625 B.C; although archaeological objects in 1600 and it consists of the central nave, discovered in its territory witness the narthex and exo-narthex. establishment of this settlement in an - Shën Mëri Church is located in the earlier period. In written texts the city village of Labovë e Kryqit. The Church appears with two names: Epidamn and of Labovë e Kryqit is one of the oldest in Dyrrachium, but in the Roman period Albania and once contained a holy relic only the name Dyrrachium started to be believed to be part of the true cross of used. No traces of these wall remain from Christ. The building is typical Byzantine this period; however, the importance of with a high central dome, the Naos and the city as a trading centre is observed in naves built in order to create the image the numerous castles built to defend it and of the cross. The main entrance to the the main road artery connecting it with church is through a subsequent narthex. Macedonia and other local regions. The The Church, as seen today, is mainly a surrounding of Durrës with triple walls construction of 13th century and of the was completed by Emperor Anastas. The Epirus Despotism time. Although an initial first fortification formed the Acropolis, the foundation can go deep to the time of second constituted the biggest quadrangle Emperor Justinian in 527-565 AD. castle, while the third one, without towers, - Castle of is located near was in the north of the city. Today are Bulqizë – road, 11 km southeast preserved 500 meters of fragments of of Peshkopi, between two streams, these walls. Grazhdani (north-west) and Maqellara - Rotonda: The Old Bazaar was (south - west), which flow into the Black discovered in the years 1987- 1990 and Drin River. The castle is built on a hilly- it was declared a cultural monument in field terrain at about 525-600 m above sea 2003. It is believed that the monument level. It stands out for its very important geo- was built from Century II B.C. up to strategic position in the basin, century IV B.C. and has functioned as especially for trading - military roads, such until century VII. Later, this Bazaar Via Egnatia and Lissus-Naissus connecting was turned into cemetries. The monument the provinces of New Epirus, Dardania is composed in the form of a circular and Macedonia II. The area of about 34 portico, among which there is a podium.

54 Discover Albania Durrësi Amphitheatre

The monument has served as a public - Church of Shën Ndoji is located on square where fairs were organized. the shore of the Adriatic Sea on the north - Durrësi Amphitheatre is one of the side of Cape Rodon. It is mentioned in most important monuments of ancient historical documents as the Church of Durrës. It is a construction of the Antonine St. Anastasia in the XVIII – XIV centuries. century (century II A..), built during the In century XV it was taken over by reign of Trajan. Today the amphitheatre Franciscan missionaries who restored it is located within the city walls built by and since that time, the church is known Anastasi in century VI. Studies suggest as the Church of St. Anthony. that the monument had a capacity of - Basilica of Shën Mëhilli is located on 15000 to 20000 spectators. Its major axis the west side of the hill with the same is 136 m and from the hill is stored up to name, in Arapaj area, about 6 km from 20 m height. During the the the city of Durrës. It was discovered place was used by people for protection. by the archaeological campaigns In its underground galleries was built a conducted in the ‘80s. The floor of paleo-christian church, which is decorated the basilica is paved with polychrome with mosaics showing St. Mary with the mosaics, with anthropomorphic, imperial clothing between two angels. zoomorphic figures and geometric The composition is also accompanied by herbal decor. It is one of the most portraits of donors, such as Alexander with beautiful paleo-Christian mosaics in his wife. It constitutes one of the earliest our country, dating back to century V - evidences of early Christianity in the city. VI A.D.

Discover Albania 55 - Bashtova Castle is built on a field, took place in 1451, while the inscription nearly 400 m north of Shkumbini River dated May 1st, 1477 shows the existence and 3-4 km far from the coast of the of the monastery in that period. Ardenica Adriatic Sea, in villa Bashtova, Kavaja. Monastery represents an architectural Bashtova castle is mentioned at the ensemble with beginning of the XVI century in a map a triangular layout, with the church at drawn in 1521. According to the Turkish its centre. The complex consists of the traveller Evliya Çelebi, the castle was Chapel of the “Shën Triadha” in the founded by the Venetians. Later it was Northeast, the Church “Dormition of conquered by the Turks, when Sultan the Virgin Mary” in its southwest and Mehmet departed for the conquest of hospices around them, which planning is Shkodra in 1478. conditioned by the terrain. - Church of Shën Premte is located in - Monastery of Shën maria in Apollonia the hilltop of Çetë village, about 2 km is a complex with architectural features east of the city of Kavaja. The interior of that show the combination of eastern the church is decorated with frescoes, and western construction traditions, painted by Joan Çetiri (Katro) from which provide these monuments Grabova, whose activity spans from 1792 with a particular individuality. The to 1813. The church of Çeta constitutes combination and rivalry between these the northernmost monument where Joan two spheres of influence is reflected in Çetiri or other painters of Çetiri family the architectural formulation, decorative worked. sculpture, and pictoresque and technical - Monastery of Shën Mëria, Ardenica, painting of frescoes. Despite the fact represents one of the largest religious that the architecture of the building is buildings in the area of . It rises Byzantine in concept, some elements of in a dominant position on a high hill, on the exonarthex, sculpture and painting one side of which lies the wide area of features, show the work of craftsmen who Myzeqe field, while on the other side you follow Romanesque construction and can see the Adriatic Sea. Located between paintings practices. the villages of Kolonjë and Libofshë, it was - In Myzeqe area, there are several a culminating station, in constant contact interesting churches to visit, such as those with the economic and social aspect of of “Shën Kolli” in , “Shën Kolli” in these two areas. On the western side of Toshkëz, “Shën Maria” in Bishqethem the hill, where the monastery lies, passed etc. the southern branch of Via Egnatia nearby, - Kanina Castle represents a civic center which continued to be used also during of the Hellenistic period (century III - II the medieval period. According to the B.C), which flourished as a medieval city legends, it is the place where the marriage up to century XVIII, without changing its ceremony of Gjergj Kastriot Skanderbeg fortification system. It is located in Kanina

56 Discover Albania Bashtova Castle; village, near the tourist coastal city of - Church of Shën Mëria Monastery Vlora. Kanina is the balcony of the coastal is located on the island of Zvernec, area of Vlora bay, protected naturally from opposite the village with the same name. Shushica valley. This urban antic-medieval Its style is of free cross with a dome centre is of importance for researchers, and narthex, while the exonarthex and for the interpretation of Illyrian-Arbër the open porch were added later. The continuity, serving both the tourism and architecture of the church, with cast the cultural tourism. and developed forms, the treatment - Porto Palermo Castle was built by of facades with arcades, are elements Ali Pasha in 1804. It rises in a very nice thatdate back to the second half of century position, in the small tectonic bay of XIV. Romanesque architecture impacts Porto Palermo, in the Albanian Riviera, are evident in its external part, which south of Himara. At that time, the ruler relates to the power and the domination was distinguished for reconstruction and of the noble family of Balshaj over construction of a series of fortifications. these territories. Every August 15th , a He created a whole system of separate pilgrimage takes place here in honour of castles and towers, as he forecasted a Saint Mary. potential conflict with Turkey. Castles were - Church of Source of Life (Marmiroi) in built in strategic key points, near the main Orikum is located behind Pashaliman, in a roads and ports of the country. It is said secluded place on the crest of a low hill in that the Pasha gave the castle his wife’s the western part of Vlora bay. It has been name, Vasiliqia. dedicated to the image of Saint Mary, as

Discover Albania 57 Source of Life, but, in people’s memories it post-Byzantine chapel, the walls of which exists as “Marmiroi”, a name that appears are integrated parts of an earlier basilica, in historical sources in 1307 and relates consisting of the central nave divided to the marble quarry nearby. Marmiroi into three naves, the altar and narthex on Church dates back to the early stage of the west side. The interior of the church middle Byzantine period, the first half of preserves traces of mural paintings of two century . different stages of implementation. The - Church of Shën Spiridhoni was built in first stage belongs to century XVI, while the lower neighbourhood of Vuno village, the second one was completed in the where it forms a building ensemble second half of century XIX, by the studio along with the other buildings of social of Fionjat. character, such as schools and church - Mosque of Muradije is composed by administration. The interior of the church the cubic halls and the minaret, while is decorated with murals which, according traces of the former porch are preserved to the inscription on the southern gate, on the north wall and its foundations. were painted in 1784 by Jani from the The walls are built with stones and bricks Eparchy of Drinopolje and Gjirokastra, placed on a regular basis, two rows of with the contribution of the inhabitants of carved stones, alternated by two rows the village at the time of Bishop Joaniq. of bricks. The building is covered with a The same master is believed to have dome. The entry to the mosque is on the also painted the of Christ and the north side. It was built in the second half in the iconostasis. of century XVI. The mosque is designed - Ipapandia Church is located at the and built by the Albanian architect Sinan, lower part of Dhërmi village, near the who was one of the most important sea. It preserves the typological features builders of mosques in the early Ottoman of the coastal one nave churches. The Period. The Mosque of Muradije is built interior of the church is decorated with with supporting walls. The walls are wall paintings, which reflect two different made of stone and bricks. The building is phases of construction. The paintings of covered with a spherical dome made of the first phase are related to the Ionian stone. The mosque is located in the centre School of painting and according to the of Vlora city. inscription, they were completed in 1751, - Church of Shën Koll Monastery in while the paintings of the second phase is located on the southern are completed in a Fjonjat studio in Kostur part the monastery. This church is of area, and date back to the second half of a unique type. It is the largest among century XIX. preserved Byzantine churches in Albania - Shën Stefan Church is located at the in -XIV centuries. The church has a lower part of Dhërmi village, close to the shape of a cube with the central part sea. In its actual state, it represents a small which rises above and is crowned by four

58 Discover Albania domes. It is thought that the church was architectural - constructive level of surrounded on three sides by galleries the remaining constructions testify its or open porches with arcades. They importance and values. The monastic were demolished in 1793. According complex is composed of churches, towers to researchers, in 1510 the church was and a two-storey building, which was hit by an earthquake, which caused used for service premises. The entire considerable damage. The church is monastic complex is surrounded by high known for its unique architecture, its stone walls, where can be found also the brick decoration, sculptural relieves well protected entrance gate. on the exterior walls of the facades, for the capitols, for the artistic values, the high level of Byzantine-style building, including the Roman influence. It belongs to the XIII century, fact that is also shown in the emblem of D’Anjou. - Castle of Lëkurës is another fortification built by the Turks. It is located on a high hill southeast of Saranda, near the ruins of the Lëkurës village. The castle’s layout is almost square, measuring 42 x 44 m, with two round towers located in the northwest and southeast corner, and a Mosque of Muradije in Vlora rectangular tower on the western wall. In terms of planimetrics, Lëkurës Castle - Monastery of Shën Mëri in Krorëz is similar to the other castles of Turkish rises on a rocky shore with natural occupation period, such as Preza and protection and a broad view of the coastal Peqini castle. Each of them, besides the landscape. Churches and towers remain towers round the corner, is also equipped from the monastic complex. The church with a rectangular tower in one of the is in a cross shape, with a dome with walls. Based on the available data, the internal dimensions 7,90 x 4, 40 m. There most likely time of the construction of this is a two-storey bower in the church. The castle is second half of century XVI until tower or the fortified building is three- the end of century XVII. storey, with closed style and few and small - Church of Shën Mëri Monastery - lighting spaces. Besides these buildings, Kakome; The Monastery of Shën Mëri there are ruins of other buildings around rises on a hilly plateau inside the Gulf the church. The monastery courtyard is of Kakome, away from residential areas. paved with stone slates. The nearest village is Nivica- Bubari. - Shën Thanas Church in Sopik is built The position of the monastery and the on the highest park of the hill in the centre

Discover Albania 59 of Sopik village. It consists of narthex, - Church (Rubik Municipality, central nave and apse. On the north side, Mirditë) or Shelbuemi Church is the porch of the church is provided with currently under the jurisdiction of the one division roof. Nowadays, the church newly established diocese of Rrëshen. looks like a construction of century XVII, It has historically been part of Lezha and it is thought to be raised on the diocese. It was built in century XII as a foundations of an earlier building. The Byzantine church and repainted in 1272. interior of the church does not show any According to written texts, it is closely exposed frescoes, which should have linked to a community of monks of the been covered with plaster during the Benedict Order. This is also evident in the dictatorship period. clothing of Abbot Innocent, presented in - Lisus Castle and Memorial of miniature in Deisis composition, which Skanderbeg (Municipality of Lezha); belong to the Latin rites. the early stages of construction of the - Church of Shën Kolli, Perondi is Castle of Lezha date back to century located near the town of Kuçova. The III B.C. The walls reach the maximum only information about the village and height to 8 m and a width of 2.5- 4 m. On the church is a note left by the Bishop of the Hellenistic buildings there are later Berat Monastery, Anthimios Aleksudhis, phases, such as the Roman, Byzantine, at the end of century XIX. According to Venetian and Ottoman buildings recently. this note, in 1399, the abbot of Shën Kolli The area of the castle is nearly 2 hectares monastery in Pendearhontion gave the and the perimeter of the surrounding city library to Theodore III Muzaka, in order to walls is up to 850 m. save it from the Turks.

Rubik Church

60 Discover Albania Albania Follk Costumes

Folklore and Iso-polifonia south; as well as “Qylafi of lebër” in Albania, part of the Balkans, which is the south as well, which also originate internationally recognized as a zone rich from antiquity. A very important event in folklore, has very old traditions, which of Albanian folklore is the National Folk continue even nowadays. The Festival of Gjirokastra, which takes place has its roots in antiquity. Albania is known in the magnificent castle of the city every for the songs of “Epos of Heroes” and iso 4 years. In this festival participate folk -polifonia, which is part of the UNESCO groups from all over Albania and other oral world heritage. Albanian iso-polifonia Albanian regions of Kosovo, Macedonia, is a group singing without musical Montenegro, Italian Arbëresh and instruments (except Piluri area, on Himara Diaspora. coast). It is spread over the districts of Besides of this important event, other Gjirokastra, Tepelena, Vlora, culminating activities are regularly held such as: The in Himara, on the Ionian Coast. National Festival of harmonicas and Folk In addition to this genre, the Albanian Orchestra of Korçë, the National Festival folklore is also rich in its literature, music, of Rhapsody and Folk Instruments in choreography and drama. It comprises Lezha, the National Citizen Song Festival tales, legends, anecdotes, proverbs, etc. in Elbasan, the National Festival of Iso- Albania is known for its rich and diverse Polyfonia in Vlora, International Festival costumes, where it is known the northern “Multicultural Përmet” in Përmet, Folk “” (female dress), which origins Festival “Dardanelle Sofra” in , date to ancient times; men’s in the Festival “Dibra Room” in Peshkopi, etc.

Discover Albania 61 Handicrafts The most prominent figures of this Albanian handicrafts have a long period are: as publicist, poet tradition. In ancient times, the Illyrians and leading translator of world literature and Arbëresh had a high level of artistic masterpieces in Albanian, , works development, usinga special , , Ernest technique. Most of the mentioned works Koliqi, etc. After World War are costumes with national artistic II, socialist realism influenced literature folklore motifs. Other works are filigree topics. Although the themes were limited, products, wood carvings, alabaster, bone a great number of valuable artworks work, ceramics, stone, wool and leather were realised during this period. We can products. All these types of works have mention writers such as , always attracted the attention of tourists, Ismail Kadare, Dritëro Agolli, etc. The for their originality and high technical works of the novelist Ismail Kadare have and artistic value. Nowadays, visitors and been translated in 40 languages and in tourists can purchase items and souvenirs 2005 he was awarded with the prize “Man of the Albanian crafts during their stay. Booker International”. Kadare was also The main bazaar to buy these items is that nominated for the Nobel Prize in literature. of Kruja, which is located at the entrance to the castle. Other stores of this type Cinematography are also found in Tirana, Shkodër, Berat, Albanian cinematography has been Gjirokastra, etc. established after World War II, around 1947. The first Albanian movie “Tana” Literature and Arts was produced in 1952. Some of Albanian The first Albanian book is “” of movies are also known by the European (1555). Early literature is public. They are awarded with prizes in represented by religious books, expressing various international activities. Successful resistance to the Turkish invasion. The movies have been produced in recent most prominent authors of this literature years and they have been awarded in are: Pjeter Budi, , Pjeter various festivals and competitions in Bogdani, etc. reached Europe and beyond. Some of these movies its peak in the National Renaissance are also broadcasted on European TV period. This literature combines the channels. Short and animated films have enlightened, romantic, democratic been significantly developed. Nowadays, spirit of the writers of that period. The two professional cinematography schools most prominent authors of Renaissance have been opened in Albania. literature are: Naim Frasheri, Andon Zako Çajupi, Sami Frashëri, , Theatre Rada, etc. Duringindependence period, The Albanian theatre has a long tradition. literature dealt with the same topic of This evidence is also supported by the Renaissance patriotism, deepening more cultural and theatrical wealth dating back in the democratic character. to IV and III centuries B.C. The origins

62 Discover Albania Theatre of Opera and Ballet, Tirana of the amateur theatre date back to Korçë “Renaissance”. The theatre established its 5. National Museum of Education, Korçë traditions in Shkodër, Korça, Gjirokastara 6. Onufri National Museum, Berat and Elbasan. Albania is the birthplace of 7. National Museum of Ethnography, Berat the international famous actor, Aleksandër 8. Museum of Independence Vlora Moisiu. The acting profile can be studied 9. Archaeological Park Apollonia in Albania at the Academy of Fine Arts. 10. Archaeological Park Byllis Theatrical professional groups with their 11. Castle of Berat shows are always present in different 12. Archaeological Museum of Durrës cities of our country. Artistic and cultural 13. The Durres Amphitheatre institutions operating in Tirana are: 14. Castle of Gjirokastra National Theatre, Theatre of Opera and 15. Archaeological Park Antigone Ballet and the Puppet Theatre. 16. Archaeological Park Amantia OPENING HOURS OF MUSEUMS 17. Archaeological Park Orikumi They are open from Tuesday to Sunday: 18. The Monastery of Mesopotami Time 9:00 a.m. – 02:00 p.m. 19. Castle of Porto Palermo Time 05:00 p.m. – 08:00 p.m. 20. Church of 40 Saints, Saranda The museums are closed on Monday. 21. Castle of Himare 22. Castle of Kanina Museums 23. Archaeological Park of l. National Historical Museum, Tirana 24. In the National Park of Butrint the 2. National Museum “Skanderbeg” Kruje opening hours are: 3. Ethnographic Museum, Kruje Monday to Sunday 4. National Museum of Medieval Art 9:00 a.m. – 08:00 p.m.

Discover Albania 63 CHAPTER 3 PR ACTICA L INFORMATION

64 Discover Albania Discover Albania 65 BY AIR E-mail: portiDurrë[email protected] All flights take off in the Airport “Mother web: www.apDurrës.com.al Teresa”, located 17 km northwest of The Port Authority operates 24 hours. Tirana. The city of Tirana offers a shuttle Port of Vlore service at the airport. It is connected with the Italian port of The buses leave from “Dede Gjo Luli” Brindisi Street, behind the National Museum, Tel: 00355/033224521 every one hour, starting from 07:00 until Fax: 00355/033229417 19:00. The ticket costs about 2 Euros. You E-mail: [email protected] can also use the taxi service, which costs web www.portivlore.al 20 Euros. The Port operates until 22:00 “Mother Teresa” Airport Port of Sarande At the airport there are shops and “duty It provides daily connections to passengers free shop”, which provide 24 hour service. on the Greek island of Corfu Tel: 00355 4/2381800/1600 Tel: 00355/073222734 Fax: 00355 4/2379065. E-mail: [email protected] For the lost baggage during the flight, web www.portisarande.com.al please contact: The Port operates until 22:00 Tel: 00355 4/2381681/82 Mob: 00355 69 20 66626 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.tirana-airport.com.al The airlines that operate in Albania (Rinas) are ADRIA AIRWAYS, LUFTHANSA, ALITALIA, AEGEAN AIRLINES, AUSTRIAN AIRLINES, HEMUS AIR, BRITISH AIRWAYS, TURKISH AIRLINES, PEGASUS AIRLINES, AIR .

BY SEA You can enter Albania from Italy and Greece, as well as through the ports of Durrës, Vlora, Shëngjin and Saranda. Some foreign companies provide regular services in ports as follows: Port of Durrës It is connected with the Italian ports of Bari, Ancona, Trieste and Brindisi in Italy Tel: 00355/052222028

66 Discover Albania - Through Vermoshi border crossing point, which connects the region of with Plav and Gucija area. Customs operate until 22:00.

KOSOVA Through the border crossing point of Pass (in Kosovo called the point of Vermica), which connects Kukes to Prizren. E-mail: [email protected] - Through the Morina border crossing point, which connects Bajram Curri with . - Through the border crossing point of Prushi Pass, which connects Has and Bytyci region with the province of Gjakova. - Through Shishtavec border crossing point, which connects this region with BY LAND Brodin and Grgash. The Republic of Albania is connected with all its neighbouring countries through MACEDIONIA land border crossing points. These border Through the border crossing point of Qafe crossing points are as follows: Thana (Kafasan, Macedonian side), which connects Pogradec and other parts of MONTENEGRO Albania and . - Through the border crossing point of Customs operate until 22:00. Hani (Bozhaj Montenegrin side), E-mail: [email protected] which connects Shkodër with and Tel & Fax: 00355 8326166 . - Through Tushemisht border crossing Customs operate until 22:00. point, which connects Pogradec with E-mail: [email protected] St. Naum and the southern part of Lake - Through the Muriqan border crossing Ohrid. Customs operate until 22:00. point (Sukobin in Montenegrin side), E-mail: [email protected] which connects Shkodër with . - Through Bllatë border crossing point, Customs operate until 22:00. which connects Peshkopi and Bulqiza E-mail: [email protected] with Great Dibra. Tel & Fax: 00355 26290070 Customs operate until 22:00.

Discover Albania 67 E-mail: [email protected] bus and minibus. - Through the Gorica border crossing point (Strenjë, Macedonian side), which FROM TIRANA MAIN ROUTES: connects the shores of Great Prespa Lake, To South: on both sides of the border. Tirana-Berat, Tirana - Vlora, Tirana - Customs operate until 19:00. Gjirokastra and Tirana - Saranda. The E-mail: [email protected] buses leave from “Kavala” street, near the bus park. GREECE To North: - Through Kakavijë border crossing point, Tirana-Kukës, Tirana - Peshkopi in “Dritan which connects Gjirokastra with . Hoxha” street in Lapraka. Customs operate non stop during 24 Buses depart to Shkodra in Rruga e hours. Durrësit, near the Palace of Sports. E-mail: [email protected] Minibuses to Bajram Curri depart from - Through Kapshtica border crossing “Murat Toptani” Street. point (Krystallopigi, on the Greek side), To Southeast: which connects Korçë with Follorina and Tirana- at the Boulevard . Customs operate non stop, “Zhan D’Ark” near the headquarters of during 24 hours. Democratic Party, Tirana - Pogradec, at E-mail: [email protected] the street of “Elbasan” (at the Faculty of - Through the border crossing point of Economics), Three Bridges, which connects Përmet Tirana - Korçë, near “Qemal Stafa” with Konica on the Greek side. Customs National stadium. operate until 22:00. Minibuses to Kruje leave at the end of E-mail: [email protected] “Mine Peza” Street. - Through Qafe Boti border crossing point, From the harbour city of Durrës, buses which connects Konispol with Filat on the and minibuses to different destinations Greek side. inside Albania leave at the square near the Customs operate until 22:00. railway station. E-mail: [email protected] POTABLE WATER CAR RENTAL RENT A CAR Potable water is controlled and In Albania there are several centers of chlorinated in all districts. In stores, car rents. The main companies are “Alba supermarkets and markets is sold bottled Rent”, Avis, Hertz, Sixt and Europcar. drinking water.

Interurban transport WORKING HOURS OF THE The main form of interurban transport in ADMINISTRATION Albania is the service provided by private Government offices work from Monday to

68 Discover Albania Thursday, from 8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.; on Fridays, from 8:00 a.m. to 02:00 p.m. Albanians are known as Saturdays and Sundays are holidays. hospitable people and willing to help foreigners. If you BANKS AND MONETARY need guidance, feel free to SYSTEM ask the help of local people, They work from Monday to Friday, from especially the youth. 8:30 to 15:00 (closed on Saturday and Sunday).

THE MONETARY SYSTEM Albanian currency is called Lek and is SOCIAL TIPS - THINGS YOU available in denominations of 5000, 1000, SHOULD KNOW 200, 100 and in cents 100, 50, 20, 10 Albania is a safe destination, and you can and 5 ALL. Foreign exchange rates are also travel individually. Foreign languages published daily. Electronic machines are are widely used in hotels, restaurants installed and found in the most important and other services. The young population cities of Albania. The major part of Banks, is widely practicing the languages, hotels and some restaurants accept credit especially Italian and English. During the cards, as well as checks. Cash payments introduction with someone, Albanians are widely practiced. The most popular like to shake hands and feel happy if you credit cards are: American Express, Dinner ask about their family and health. If you Club, Visa, Maestro (ProCredit Bank). have a chance to go as guests in Albanian SHOPS houses, they usually offer you coffee and Usually shops are open from 09:00 to raki. Similarly, if you have a chance to go 20:00 (some of which are closed on home as guests in the northern area of the Sundays). country and especially in the villages, you must take off your shoes. THINGS YOU CAN BUY If you enter the mosque, you should During your stay in Albania, you can respect the dress code which is preferable buy various items and souvenirs. Among to be serious, during the month of them, we can mention carpets and Ramadan. The sale of alcoholic beverages tapestries (Kukes and Korçë products in hotels, restaurants and shops continues are recommended), embroidery items normally and you are free to enjoy these (Zadrimore motives), albastër bunkers in drinks; only for those who are fasting, is miniature, pipes, Skanderbeg Albanian alcohol prohibited. cognac, various jewellery, filigree items, We recommend you to exchange bags with traditional Albanian motives, money at certain points where you read etc. “EXCHANGE”. Exchange rates in these

Discover Albania 69 stores are displayed and you will be BORDER FORMALITIES provided with an invoice for the service. Passports Be careful if you travel late at night in Foreign visitors from the following isolated areas with low lighting. Do not countries can enter Albania with a leave your vehicle unlocked and with passport, without a visa, by paying an items that could attract the attention of entry fee (10 Euros). The visitors from evildoers. If you travel with urban bus and the are line in Tirana or other cities, beware of exempted from this tax. This category of stealing and in these cases keep as less foreign visitors who enter without a visa valuable items. If you travel in remote can stay in Albania for 30 days, with an mountainous areas we recommend entry visa. This period can be extended up you to travel with local companions to 90 days. who know the country. Be careful with the use of the Albanian currency. The citizens of the following countries Albanians use new banknotes, but in who can enter the Republic of Albania practice they still calculate with the old without visas by presenting passports banknotes. are: That way, if you have a banknote worth Andorra, Argentina, Armenia, Australia, 100 ALL, the Albanians will count it as , Azerbaijan, , Bosnia- 1,000 ALL (old lek). For example: if you , Brazil, United Kingdom, buy in an ambulatory shop a “Tirana” or , , Estonia, Finland, “Korça” beer, the seller can tell you that , , Greece, Holland, Hong it costs 1,500 Lek (which in reality is - Kong, Hungary, Ireland, Iceland, Italy, 150 lek). However in all the restaurants, Israel, Japan, Canada, Kazakhstan, Chile, cafes and shops, the bills will appear Kosovo, , Latvia, Liechtenstein, with their real value. Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malaysia, Montenegro, , Macedonia, , MOBILE PHONE SERVICES Norway, Poland, Portugal, , the Cellular companies providing mobile Republic of Korea (South Korea), Czech service in the territory of Albania are: Republic, , Marino, Vatican, Telekom Albania, Vodafone, Eagle Mobile Serbia, USA, Singapore, , and Plus. , , , Taiwan, Turkey, These companies have agreements with , New Zealand, Switzerland, most European countries. If you have United Arab Emirates, Kuwait. roaming in your phone, it can be used in Albania. Note that the cost of using the From the above list the citizens of the mobile phone in Albania is higher than in following countries can enter Albania other countries of Europe (in the case of by presenting an ID card: roaming). Australia, Austria, Belgium, United

70 Discover Albania Kingdom, Bulgaria, Denmark, Estonia, THE CITIZENS OF THIRD Finland, France, Germany, Greece, COUNTRIES WHO: Holland, Hong - Kong, Hungary, Ireland, Iceland, Italy, Canada, Kazakhstan, Kosovo, a) have a valid multi-entry Schengen visa, Croatia, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, which was first used in one of Schengen Luxembourg, Montenegro, Malta, countries, or have a valid residence permit Macedonia, Monaco, Norway, Poland, in one of the Schengen countries; Portugal, Cyprus, the Republic of Korea, b) have a multi-entry visa to the USA or Czech Republic, Romania, , the , which was first used in one of Vatican, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, these countries, or have a valid residence Spain, Sweden, New Zealand, Switzerland, permit in the USA or in the United United Arab Emirates and Kuwait. Kingdom.

In addition to these countries, due to * If they stay more than 90 days during a visa liberalization in the countries of six-month period, they must be provided the Schengen area, the citizens of the with a visa type “D”. following countries can enter Albania IV. For the period of 25 May to 30 without a visa: September 2014 visas are removed for Antigua & Barbuda, Bahamas, Barbados, the citizens of Russia, Saudi Arabia, Brunei, Guatemala, Honduras, Costa Rica, UAE, Qatar, Oman. Passport is the only Maurishius, Mexico, Nicaragua, Panama, valid document to travel abroad for these Paraguay, Salvador, Seychelles, St Kitts citizens. For more information, please & Nevis, Uruguay, Venezuela, Macau and check the following website: Moldova www.mfa.gov.al

Discover Albania 71 72 Discover Albania Discover Albania 73 CON TAC :

NATIONAL TOURISM AGENCY Rruga Sermedin Said Toptani no 1 Tirana – Albania Tel/Fax: 00 355 4 2273778 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.albania.al Web: www.akt.gov.al

OTHER LINKS:

Ministry of Foreign Affairs www.mfa.gov.al www.inyourpocket.com/albania www.lonelyplanet.com

74 Discover Albania