BELAY DEVICE HANDBOOK can be a fun and safe experience – but only if you use the right . Nowadays there is a wide variety of different devices on the market. They all have their particular advantages and disadvantages. We’ve written this EDELRID handbook to share our expertise and provide important information about how to use the different types of devices available. We look at all the main belay techniques and give valuable tips for using and looking after belay devices. At EDELRID, we’re constantly working to further optimise climbing safety and develop new and innovative belay devices. As such, this handbook also provides an insight into our development process and our quality assurance.

Made by climbers for climbers. The EDELRID team is made up of passionate climbers and alpinists. In addition, we work closely with professional climbers and mountain guides. We understand the demands that climbers place on their equipment. CREATIVE TECHNOLOGY is our credo – we apply it to our belay devices to make versatile products that meet and exceed the highest quality standards. We have over 150 years of experience in mountain sports. This combination of experience and passion constantly drives us to explore new paths and only accept maximum performance. Furthermore, as a mountain sports company, we naturally make environmental protection, sustainability and quality management our highest priorities.

EDELRID 88316 Isny im Allgäu Germany Tel. +49 (0) 7562 981 - 0 Fax +49 (0) 7562 981 - 100 [email protected] www.edelrid.de CONTENT

4 I A history of belay devices 6 I Modern belay devices 8 I Manual belay devices 14 I Semi-automatic belay devices 16 I HMS - No belay device required 18 I OHM - Assisted-braking resistor 22 I Which belay device do I need? 24 I Better 30 I The birth of a new belay device 32 I Norms and standards 36 I Index

ABOUT THIS PUBLICATION

Typesetting: Text: Miriam Heberle, Jan Hoffmann Jan Hoffmann, Sebastian Straub, James Heath Photography: Proofreading: Christian Pfanzelt photography, James Heath, Tim Carruthers, Sally Maßmann Jan Hoffmann A HISTORY OF BELAY DEVICES

Climbing has a long tradition. Since time immemorial, adventurous men and women been fascinated by mountains and sum- mits all over the world. However, their equipment often left a lot to be desired. Thankfully, today there is a wide variety of technical belay and abseil devices. But how did they come into existence? We’d like to briefly outline the development of belay devices and their function.

Early ascents involved scaling steep cliffs with just a for protection. No other equipment was used. Around 100 years ago, Hans Dülfer, a German mountaineer, invented the Dülfersitz (literally ‘Dülfer seat’), which allowed the climber to abseil (aka rappel) from exposed sections and belay a partner. Eng- lish-speaking climbers refer to this as a classic abseil. To abseil using the Dül- fersitz, the doubled rope is passed through the legs and wrapped around the body. This produces friction between the rope and your body, braking the rope. Please note: heat is generated, which may result in a friction burn. It’s recom- mended that you wear robust, sturdy clothing, for example a good old pair of Lederhosen, should you happen to own a pair. On longer or faster abseils, enough friction is produced to burn through normal clothing. Nevertheless, the classic Dülfersitz was the standard means of , until climbers started using .

So, we’ve learnt that wrapping the rope around something increases friction and braking when abseiling and belaying and also allows the climber to vary the amount of friction used. Therefore both belaying and abseiling could be carried out in a more controlled manner. Friction can also be generated by wrapping a rope around a . This is significantly easier to handle than wrapping the rope around your body, as required in the Dülfersitz technique. To create more friction, it’s possible to join a number of carabiners together in a chain and wind the rope through them.

Earlier climbers attempted to refine this technique by running the rope through two carabiners. The resultant lever action produced by using two carabiners significantly increases friction. Alternatively, one or more carabiners could be placed crosswise across a main carabiner and the rope was then fed through, as shown in the diagram. This is known as the carabiner brake method. This technique provided the inspiration for the first dedicated abseil and braking devices.

The first braking devices were carabiners with an integrated braking crosspiece in the middle. The doubled rope was run through the carabiner over the braking element. These braking devices offered poor handling. As a result, this techni- que was generally only used to lower heavy loads or climbers as part of a moun- tain rescue operation.

4 www.edelrid.de Better handling performance was required to allow normal climbers to belay and lower. Two solutions were introduced at the end of the 1960s: the Italian hitch (also known as the , after the Swiss climber Werner Munter) and the Sticht plate.

For an Italian hitch all you need is a certified, pear-shaped HMS (German: HMS – Halbmastwurfsicherung) locking carabiner. The hitch works by crea- ting friction from several bends in the rope. It’s a very useful technique and is still used to this day – more on the Italian hitch later.

In 1967, Fritz Sticht invented the first mechanical rope brake that is widely regarded as the direct predecessor of today’s tubular belay devices. It con- sists of a flat steel or aluminium disc with two parallel slots. Depending on whether you were using single rope, half or twin ropes, one or two bights of rope were passed through the slots and then clipped to the harness with a carabiner. You still occasionally see the Sticht plate in use today. Its main drawback compared to modern tubular belay devices is its jerky action when lowering.

Photo: www.storrick.cnc.net

5 MODERN BELAY DEVICES

Nowadays, anyone wanting to buy a new device will be overwhelmed by the different options available in their local climbing shop. What’s the difference between them? Allow us to shed some light on the matter.

Modern belay devices are divided into two categories: manual braking devices (EN 15151-2) and braking devices with manually assisted locking (EN 15151-1) – according to the rather complicated wording of European standards. So what does it all mean?

Manual belay devices This first group covers tubular devices (“tubers”) and figure-of-eight devices in all their many shapes and sizes. These dynamic devices will hold a fall, but only if the belayer acts appropriately. All these devices do is increase the braking force/hand bra- king force. If the belayer lets go of the dead rope (the braking side) then the lead climber’s fall will not be arrested. The European standard (EN) 15151-2 has existed since 2012. It defines the test values, safety requirements and test methods for these manual braking devices. However, manufacturers are entitled to decide whether to test their products according to this standard or another one. All our manual belay devices are tested according to this standard and meet the corresponding requirements. Auto-locking tubular devices (manual devices with assisted braking), the latest development of tubular belay devices also mostly fall into this category. They have a significantly greater safety reserves than standard tube devices, but are not classed as “braking devices with manually assisted locking” (EN 15151-1).

6 www.edelrid.de Belay devices with manually assisted locking The second group covers ‘semi-automatic’ or ‘auto- locking’ belay devices, such as the EDELRID Eddy. These devices contain an assisted braking mecha- nism that ‘automatically’ stops the rope moving, eit- her when the rope receives a sudden, sharp tug or when manually activated, when it blocks completely and arrests the fall. The braking action is indepen- dent from the belayer’s hand braking force. However, similar to a seat belt in a car, these devices will not block a rope if it is pulled through slowly. For this reason, one hand should always be kept firmly on the braking side of the rope.

HMS-Belay As we mentioned earlier in the history section, you can also belay without a belay device by using an Italian hitch.

All belay devices have one thing in common. The increased braking force of the device makes it possible to hold a fall. However there are major differences in how to use them, their mechanical action and how dynamically they brake a fall. Let‘s take a closer look at all the different types of belay devices.

7 MANUAL BELAY DEVICES

Tubular belay devices Tubular belay devices are by far the most widely the braking rope is held above the belay device, in used type of belay device. All EDELRID tube belay the event of a fall the belayer will have virtually no devices comply with the safety requirements of the chance of holding the rope and will no longer be able European standard 15151-2. They are in essence a to prevent a ground fall... modern version of the original Sticht plate. This is The main advantage of tubular belay devices is their why many climbers still refer to them as a ‘belay dynamic braking action. They allow a small amount plate’. They create braking force through a double of rope to pass through the device before a fall is bend in the rope. The rope is bent around the HMS completely arrested. So with a little practise, tubular carabiner and around the device itself. The resulting belay devices allow you to belay very dynamically. friction increases the braking force sufficiently to be This softens the climber’s fall. In addition, tubular able to hold a fall by hand. However, a tube belay belay devices allow you to pay out and take in rope device’s increased braking force only functions if quickly and easily. the dead rope is held down by the brake hand below The rope is placed in the belay device as follows and the device to produce a further bend. Incorrect use secured with a locking carabiner. can be very dangerous and have drastic conse- quences. If the braking hand lets go of the rope, or if

8 www.edelrid.de Tubular belay devices come in many different shapes and sizes. Single tubular belay devices are designed for with a single rope. They have a straightforward design with just one slot for the rope and no release hole for belaying directly from an . Double tubular belay devices have two slots so that you can use double ropes. However, only double tubular devices with a release hole for a direct anchor allow the full range of belay operations: belaying a leader or second, bringing up two climbers simultaneously (by body belay or anchor belay), lowering and abseiling with single or double ropes.

ADVANTAGES DISADVANTAGES

Universal application (depending on model) – bela- Does not block automatically (belaying error can have ying a leader, bringing up a second, body belay fatal consequences)

Certain devices have less braking performance/ Lightweight require greater braking hand force

Braking performance affected by rope diameter – and Optimal dynamic belaying condition

Perfect for abseiling with single and double ropes

Easy to use

Does not damage rope

Minimal kinks in rope

9 MANUAL BELAY DEVICES

Tubular belay devices with assisted braking Extra safety. They might look rather different, but used. As a general rule, the thicker the diameter, the ‘auto-locking’ (or ‘auto-blocking’) tubular belay greater the friction produced and the more the devices function in exactly the same way as normal device blocks the rope. When using an auto-locking tubular belay devices. tubular belay device with assisted braking, the brake In the event of a fall, these belay devices produce so hand principle should always be adhered to. In addi- much friction that they prevent the rope from run- tion, one should note that the very high braking ning through the device. Therefore holding a fall is force of these types of tubular devices means that less dependant on hand braking force. This means dynamic belaying is only possible through body that tubular belay devices with assisted braking dynamics, i.e. by moving. We’ll explain more about offer much higher safety reserves than standard how to give a dynamic belay later on in the Tips and tubular belay devices. However, you should always Tricks chapter. Our tubular belay devices with assi- follow the manufacturer’s instructions regarding sted braking are also tested to the EU standard which type of carabiner to use and the recommen- 15151-2, i.e. as “manual braking devices”. However, ded rope diameter. Tubular belay devices with assi- the standard is not mandatory and is applied diffe- sted braking only guarantee their extremely high rently by each manufacturer. braking force if recommended rope diameters are

Megal Jul Jul2

10 www.edelrid.de ADVANTAGES DISADVANTAGES

Very high safety reserves due to higher braking per - Dynamic belaying only possible via body dynamics formance

Allows quick paying out Handling requires practice

Less hand braking force required

Suitable for use with half ropes and twin ropes (depending on model)

Intuitive to use

Minimal kinks in rope

11 MANUAL BELAY DEVICES

Figure of eight Figure of eights are intended primarily for abseiling We recommend fixing the figure of eight in the cor - and should be used with caution. The figure of eight rect position on the HMS carabiner. Why is this? If is actually under threat of extinction. It only offers the figure of eight can move about then this can relatively low braking performance and is pretty often result in cross loading the carabiner. If this heavy compared to other belay devices. In particular, happens, the carabiner has less than half the bra- when using new or thinner ropes, the figure of king strength that it would have if it was aligned for eight’s reduced friction does not offer the same lengthways loading. In certain circumstances, this increased braking force as other belay devices. can have very serious implications. If the figure of Nevertheless, it’s still used by some climbers for eight lies over the carabiner’s locking mechanism belaying and abseiling. Users say they like its poten- and a climber falls, then the high leverage and loa- tial for very dynamic belaying. The rope is placed in ding produced by the figure of eight can break the the figure of eight as shown below. It can be used gate of the carabiner. This could result in a ground with a single or double rope. First a bight of rope is fall. We therefore recommend using a rubber retai- fed through the large hole to the braking hand. Then ner, to fix the figure of eight in place in the correct this then looped around the outside of the small hole position – on the top bar of the HMS carabiner. and then clipped to the harness using a locking cara- biner.

12 www.edelrid.de ADVANTAGES DISADVANTAGES

Easy lowering Does not block automatically (belaying error can have fatal consequences)

Dynamic belaying possible Certain devices have less braking performance/ require greater braking hand

Suitable for use with half ropes and twin ropes Braking performance affected by rope diameter – (depending on model) and condition

Can change position on HMS carabiner and damage it

13 SEMI-AUTOMATIC BELAY DEVICES

‘Semi-automatic’ belay devices ‘Semi-automatic’ Belay devices certified to EN 15151-1 have an assisted braking (or assisted locking) mecha- nism that functions rather like a car seat belt. If the rope is pulled through slowly, it won’t block. If the device comes under a sudden load (e.g. a fall) a special mechanism is activated that blocks the rope completely. This mechanism is triggered by the increased friction when the rope runs through quickly. However, if there is no sudden loading or the device is used incorrectly, then it will not brake the rope. Therefore, when using an assisted-braking belay device, always keep your braking hand on the free end of the rope! If you only hold the rope leading to the climber, then there will be no sharp tug and the belay device’s assisted-braking action is bypassed. When used correctly, the braking performance of belay devices with manually assisted locking does not depend on the belayer’s hand braking force. However, because these devices block the rope completely, the possibilities for dynamic belaying are limited.

My climbing partner has fallen and now my belay device is completely locked. How do I lower them to the ground? Most assisted-braking belay devices have a lever for lowering or abseiling. The lever unlocks the device. The EDELRID Eddy has its own integrated panic locking element. Everyone has a panic and grasp reflex which can be triggered by panic or fear. This means that if the belayer panics, with some belay devices of this type, they may pull the lowering lever back towards them and a falling climber may then fall all the way to the ground. This is sometimes referred to as the ‘panic-pull syndrome’. The panic locking element prevents this. If the Eddy’s lever is pulled all the way back, then it blocks the rope completely in the device and arrests the fall.

STOP

STOP

14 www.edelrid.de SEMI-AUTOMATIC BELAY DEVICES

Unfortunately, ‘semi-automatic’ assisted-braking belay devices can only accommodate a single rope.

ADVANTAGES DISADVANTAGES

Very high safety reserves thanks to assisted Dynamic belaying only possible via body dynamics locking function

Blocks rope completely Comparatively large in size

Can only be used with single ropes

Paying out rope requires practice

Difficulties in paying out rope may lead to manipu- lation of the blocking mechanism

15 HMS NO BELAY DEVICE REQUIRED

Italian hitch Can you really belay safely with just a locking HMS carabiner and a rope? Yes you can. An Italian hitch tied to a carabiner also provides dynamic increased braking force. The Italian hitch is still used widely today. It’s a handy technique that every climber should be familiar with, regardless of which belay device they use.

It might look complicated, but it’s easy to learn. This is how to tie an Italian hitch:

It’s also easy to tell if you’ve tied it properly. When tied correctly, the flips from one side of the carabiner to the other when you pull the ends of the rope. This means that when you change from paying out rope to taking in rope, the knot jumps into the corresponding position. When belaying with an Italian hitch, it’s impor - tant to select your HMS carabiner carefully. A slipped Italian hitch can potentially open certain locking carabi- ners. We therefore recommend not using using simple screwgate, twistlock and slide gate carabiners. In addition, the braking rope should be on the opposite side to the carabiner gate.

16 www.edelrid.de Unlike most other belay techniques, rope diameter makes no difference to the increased braking force when belaying with an Italian hitch on an HMS carabiner. However, using an Italian hitch puts twists and kinks in the rope. Some climbing centres even ban its use completely with their ropes.

ADVANTAGES DISADVANTAGES

Universal application – belaying a leader, bringing Does not brake automatically (belaying error can up a second, body belay have fatal consequences)

Universal application – belaying a leader, bringing Greater rope wear due to rope-on-rope friction up a second, body belay when lowering

Greater braking performance than a tubular belay Can produces serious kinks in rope if lowering is device not carried out properly

Braking performance not affected by rope Danger of unintentional opening with certain diameter locking carabiners

Easy to see if tied correctly – knot flips from one side of carabiner to other

Dynamic belaying possible

17 OHM ASSISTED BRAKING RESISTOR TO INCREASE ROPE FRICTION

The problem: climbing partners with a signifi- cant difference in weight

A significant difference in weight between lead climber and belayer frequently causes a problem. This applies in particular to climbing couples, where the woman is often significantly lighter than her partner. In the event of a fall, a lighter belayer can be suddenly pulled off the ground and hurled against the wall. In addition, when a belayer is pulled high off the ground, this significantly increases the distance that the leader falls. If the climber is still near the ground, belayer and climber might collide, or the climber might even hit the ground.Moreover, if a dynamic belay device is used (for example a tubular belay device) then a lighter belayer has to apply significant hand braking force to arrest the fall. In the worst-case scenario, the belayer might not be able to hold on to the rope. Their hand may get painfully burnt as the rope runs through the device or they may drop their partner completely. This is why the German and Swiss (DAV, SAC) recom- mend that a climber should not weigh more than 1.33 times their belayer, i.e. maximum 1/3 more (for exam- ple: belayer 60 kg, climber maximum weight 80 kg). In the event of a big fall, in particular at the , such large differences in weight require extreme care and attention on the part of the belayer. Using a weight bag to reduce the difference in weight is not possible all the time (who wants to carry a weight bag to the crag?). In addition, weight bags restrict a belayer’s freedom of movement. And even when using a weight bag, the belayer still has to supply full braking

There is a short video about the OHM here: force (risk of burns as rope runs through belay device). http://www.edelrid.de/en/ohm/

18 www.edelrid.de OHM: assisted-braking resistor to increase rope friction

The OHM is an OHM assisted-braking resistor to in- paying out rope. The device’s assisted braking mecha- crease friction. It’s attached at the first in the nism is only activated in the event of a fall. The OHM safety chain using a and the rope runs also works independently to the belay device used. through it. In the event of a fall, the OHM increases Should a lead climber fall at the first bolt, the OHM rope friction so that a lighter belayer can hold a hea- significantly reduces the risk of a possible ground vier partner without difficulty. This helps prevent fall. Lowering a heavier climber is also much ea- the belayer from being thrown forcefully against sier to control due to the increased friction. This the wall. In addition, the belayer needs to apply si- reduces the risk of accidents when lowering. gnificantly less hand braking force to arrest the fall. The OHM was developed together with the The OHM is designed not to affect rope handling when Institute of Mechanical Handling and Lo- belaying a lead climber. It neither increases gistics at the University of Stuttgart. to the lead climber, nor has a negative affect when

Weight difference belayer - lead climber

+100%

+90%

+80%

+70%

+60%

+50%

+40% Maximum weight difference +30% according to DAV recommendation

+20%

+10%

+0% 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 WEIGHT BELAYER [KG]

19 OHM FUNCTION AND APPLICATION

Operation mode The Ohm is an assisted-braking resistor that is at- tached at the first bolt with a quickdraw and the rope runs through it. In the event of a fall, the rope is pulled into the device’s braking mechanism. This then brakes the fall. The device does not stop the rope abruptly; instead it progressively brakes the speed it runs through, so that the belayer can still dynamically arrest the fall. The Ohm in-creases the amount of friction in the safety chain, independent of the belay device used. As a result, the belayer needs to apply significantly less hand braking force to the braking rope to arrest the fall and they wont be hurled against the wall in an uncon-trolled man- ner. The Ohm is designed not to affect rope handling when belaying a lead climber. It nei-ther increases rope drag for the lead climber, nor has a negative affect when paying out rope. The device’s assisted braking mechanism is only activated in the event of a fall. The OHM benefits both climber and belayer: The belayer wont be pulled against the wall in an uncontrolled manner. The climber can climb right to their limits, without having to worry that their belayer might not be able to hold them should they fall and with no fear of a hard landing.

20 www.edelrid.de Integrating the OHM into the safety chain The lead climber ties in to the “sharp end” of the rope. They place the rope in the OHM (see fig.1) and then attach it to their harness with a quickdraw. At the first bolt, they attach the quickdraw with the prepared OHM to the bolt (see fig.2). The leader and belayer then climb as usual.

Fig. 1: Attaching the OHM to the harness Fig. 2: Clipping of the first bold

21 WHICH BELAY DEVICE DO I NEED?

Intended purpose The main thing when buying a belay device is to be clear about what you want it for. Do you only climb single- routes? Do you want to be able to belay a partner on multi-pitch routes? As we mentioned previously, there is often more than one solution for each type of climbing.

MODEL SPORT CLIMBING ALPINE CLIMBING ABSEILING BELAYING A LEADER BELAYING A LEADER BELAYING A LEADER (BODY BELAY) (ANCHOR BELAY) (ANCHOR BELAY) BRINGIN UP A PARTNER

Single tubular belay device ++ -* -* -* -* -* -* +++ -

Double tubular belay ++ -* -* -* -* -* -* +++ +++ device

Tubular belay device with release hole for direct ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ +++ +++ +++ +++ anchor

Single tubular belay device +++ -* -* -* -* -* -* +++** - with assisted braking

Tubular belay device with assisted braking and +++ +++ +++ - - +++ +++ +++ +++ release hole for direct anchor

Figure of eight + -* -* -* -* -* -* +++ +++

Semi-automatic device +++ +++ - - - +++ - +++** -

Italian hitch + + + +++ +++ ++ + + +

+++ our recommendation ++ very suitable +suitable - not suitable * = not suitable for alpine climbing as a roped party **=Abseiling suitable only with single strand

Single rope Half rope Twin rope

22 www.edelrid.de MODEL SPORT CLIMBING ALPINE CLIMBING ALPINE CLIMBING ABSEILING BELAYING A LEADER BELAYING A LEADER BELAYING A LEADER (BODY BELAY) (ANCHOR BELAY) (ANCHOR BELAY) BRINGIN UP A PARTNER

Single tubular belay device ++ -* -* -* -* -* -* +++ -

Double tubular belay ++ -* -* -* -* -* -* +++ +++ device

Tubular belay device with release hole for direct ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ +++ +++ +++ +++ anchor

Single tubular belay device +++ -* -* -* -* -* -* +++** - with assisted braking

Tubular belay device with assisted braking and +++ +++ +++ - - +++ +++ +++ +++ release hole for direct anchor

Figure of eight + -* -* -* -* -* -* +++ +++

Semi-automatic device +++ +++ - - - +++ - +++** -

Italian hitch + + + +++ +++ ++ + + +

23 BETTER BELAYING

Want to be a better belayer? Research from Germany by the DAV () shows that incorrect use of belay devices is responsible for more than a third of climbing accidents at climbing walls. We’ve com- piled some of the main points that explain how to be a better belayer. We’d like to stress though that belaying is not something that you can just learn in theory. It has to be learnt in practice. In order to become a better belayer and master other climbing techniques, beginner’s courses, refresher courses and regular fall training with supervision are a good idea. Climbing is no different to every other sport – practice makes perfect.

Braking hand principle Regardless of which belay device you use, your braking hand should ALWAYS be on the dead rope. The dead rope is the loose side of the rope that does not lead to the climber. The other side of the rope (the live rope) is the side of the rope that goes from the belay device to the climber. Your other hand should remain on the live rope and act as a sensor. If there is a sudden load on the rope, then you’ll be alert to it and have plenty of time to control the dead rope with your brake hand.

Braking Understanding how a belay device functions is crucial to ensure correct braking. As we mentioned earlier, tubular belay devices only function properly when the dead rope is pulled down by the braking hand to produce an additional bend in the rope. If the braking hand is on the rope, but the rope is held in the wrong position, i.e. above the device, then a fall could prove fatal. So it’s essential to understand how your belay device works. We recommend reading the user manual before you first use the device and getting some proper instruction.

24 www.edelrid.de 25 BETTER BELAYING

Rope type The type of rope you use will have a major impact on the effectiveness of your belay device’s increased braking force. Diameter, overall condition and the state of the sheath should be taken into consideration. Each belay device is designed to be used with ropes of a certain dia- meter range. In some cases, using a certain belay device with a certain diameter of rope might not be permitted and could even be dangerous. You should always follow the manufacturer‘s recommendations. If a rope is too thin, your belay device might not produce sufficient braking force to hold a fall. If a rope is too thick, then it may get stuck in your belay device and be difficult to handle. In addition, the condition of a rope’s sheath also plays a role. Does it look old or show signs of abrasion or furring? If this is the case, it will have a thicker diameter and its surface will produce more friction. This could mean that it won’t run through your belay device smoothly and that the belay system is no longer safe.

Carabiner position In addition to the belay device, it’s important to use an HMS carabiner with a suitable gate locking mechanism. The belay device should always be clipped with the carabi- ner to the belayer’s harness so that it’s loaded in a lengthwise direction. A cross-loaded carabiner has less than half the braking strength than when it’s loaded lengthwise. To prevent the carabiner from rotating, we recommend using an HMS carabiner with an additional internal component to fix the carabiner in place. This then prevents the carabiner twisting on the harness and ensu- res that it remains loaded in the optimal lengthwise direc- tion.

26 www.edelrid.de Gloves Gloves are not just for winter. Using gloves when belaying, significantly increases safety. They provide greater friction and can prevent you from seriously burning your hands. If you don’t have the hand strength to hold your partner, or if you lower your partner too fast, then significant heat can be produced. The reflex reaction is to drop the rope, cau- sing the lead climber to fall the ground in an uncontrolled manner. Wearing belay gloves can prevent this. They should be made of robust materials and provide plenty of friction. Thin, soft leather gloves are ideal. The right fit is also important. If your gloves are too big, then you might not have enough control over your belay device.

Looking after your belay device Look after your belay device and it will look after you. As with all mechanical devices, belay devices should also be kept free of dirt at all times. Only then will they function reliably. The is especially important in climbing as it also helps to protect the rope. In addition, belay devices made of aluminium should be checked regularly for sharp edges. These can form over time by rope friction from belaying and lowering. Sharp edges can damage the rope and in extreme cases cut through it. We recommend that you inspect your belay device every time before you use it. Make sure it’s not dirty and clean it if necessary. Clean it using (clean) water or compressed air. If required, moving parts should be oiled with acid-free oil.

27 BETTER BELAYING

Spotting Where to stand when How do I protect my climbing partner from falling It’s worth thinking about where you stand when and hitting the ground on the first few metres of a you’re spotting. When belaying, it can make a big route? You should spot your partner before they difference to your partner’s safety. In particular, have clipped a quickdraw in the first bolt or second because there is an increased risk of a ground fall bolt – depending on how far apart they are spaced. during the first metres of a route – up to around the How? By standing behind them and holding up both fifth bolt. This is why you should not stand directly hands towards their hips. Try to make sure you keep underneath your partner. But don’t stand too far your thumbs turned in. If you’re unlucky and your away from the wall either. This is important for two partner lands on your outstretched thumb, you could reasons. Firstly, if you stand further away you will get injured. Should the climber fall during the first have more slack rope. Should the climber fall, they few metres, try to ensure that they don’t hit their will fall further, significantly increasing the risk of a head or their back on the ground. If they do fall, ground fall. Secondly, you (the belayer) might also don’t try to catch them, just spot them. You can still be pulled forwards and slammed into the wall. This hold both ends of the rope in your hands while spot- could result in an accident. Most climbing walls ting, using your turned in thumbs. This way you can recommend that you stand one metre from the wall ensure a smooth transition from spotting to belaying. and one metre to the side. This will hopefully prevent you from being hit should your partner fall and keep the amount of rope you have to pay out to a mini- mum.

1m 1m

28 www.edelrid.de How to prevent a hard fall Hard falls can be prevented. Using dynamic belaying belaying. Belay devices for dynamic belaying, such to give a soft catch can significantly reduce impact as a tubular belay device or figure of eight allow a force. Impact force is the maximum force to which small amount of rope to run through before com- the body and equipment are subjected during a fall. pletely blocking it. However, it’s possible to delibera- The abrupter the jerk when braking, the greater the tely belay more dynamically. The climber falls impact force. Drop an egg and it will break. However, further, but the catch is softer. Even if you are using everyone knows that if you catch it softly, moving a very direct and hard semi-automatic belay device, your hands down in the direction of the fall to absorb it’s still possible to give a softer catch. How? First the energy, then it generally remains intact. To apply up, you should make sure that you are watching your this principle when belaying, it depends firstly on climber carefully the whole time, so that you are not how high the climber is. First priority: if your climber taken by surprise. If the climber falls, a small jump or is not far off the ground – prevent a ground fall. hop is enough to soften the fall. The timing is impor - Shorten the fall rather than add to it. If your partner tant: you should be moving as the force is applied – is higher up a route, then you should try to give a moving after the impact is felt is too late. Prepare to softer catch. As we’ve already mentioned, different be pulled up and in toward the wall and stretch your belay devices provide different options for dynamic feet out to protect yourself.

1m 1m

29 THE BIRTH OF A NEW BELAY DEVICE

Modern belay devices have very sophisticated braking mechanisms. The finished product is the result of a long and intensive development process. Braking performance, handling, design – everything is meticulously devised and rigorously tested. Take for example our Mega Jul tubular belay device with assisted braking. Let’s have a look at how it was developed.

Requirements profile Requirements profile The requirements profile is the starting point for all development. In developing the Mega Jul, our aim was to design a tubular belay device with assisted braking that included the following characteristics:

- It should be small and lightweight; lighter than comparable products on the market - It should look like a tubular belay device and be intuitive to use - It should be suitable for belaying a leader, bringing up two climbers simultaneously, and be equally suitable for abseiling (prioritised according to frequency used) - When used with appropriate diameter ropes, it will provide sufficient braking, so that arresting a fall is signi- ficantly less dependent on user hand strength - The diameter range of ropes that it can be used with should be as wide as possible - Material wear should be kept to a minimum - Heat generation on the device should remains within limits

Stage 1: Modifying the Kilo Jul Could we produce an auto-locking tubular belay device that still looked and handled like a conventional tubular belay device? We decided to modify our existing Kilo Jul tubular belay device and give it better braking geometry. We wanted to produce sufficient friction to stop the rope from slipping through the device when loaded. Conclusion: its braking performance was actually very good and it offered excellent handling – as does the Kilo Jul. However, the way it blocked the rope was not yet satisfactory. And it was not good enough at bringing up other climbers. So we went back to the drawing board.

Stage 2: Functional prototype 1 Simply modifying the existing Kilo Jul was not going to be sufficient, so we created an adjustable functional proto- type. The angle of some of its elements could be adjusted. This made it possible to investigate the best possible angles for a fully functional braking mechanism. Conclusion: an initial step in the right direction. But there is still the problem of bringing up other climbers.

30 www.edelrid.de Stage 3: Functional prototype 2 Creating a second functional prototype allowed us to explore solutions to this problem. In addition, we were able to enhance the braking mechanism. The prototype had an adjustable block, which acted as a pressing surface that locks the rope. In addition, the proto- type has an additional hole, which can be used to attach it (to a direct anchor), to bring up other climbers. Furthermore, a wire (like the conventional tubular belay device) was used as a lever. Conclusion: once the correct angle for the blocking function was found, the device was able to hold the rope on its own when the rope is loaded. Bringing up another climber also worked well. However, releasing the blocked rope was pro- blematic.

Stage 4: Release lever Blocking the rope is all very well, but it’s not much good if the rope is hard to release. The prototype needed to have a lever or something similar to release the blocking action on the rope. We experimented with a number of solutions, from large to very small levers. Ultimately, the best solution invol- ved using the wire as a lever. Conclusion: the wire functioned very well as a lever to release the device’s blocking action and can be operated with a thumb. The only drawback is that the wire cut into thumbs when releasing.

Stage 5: Final Mega Jul with special thermoplastic element We developed a special thermoplastic element to stop the wire cutting into the thumb. In addition, we put the finishing touches to the overall design. And we decided to make the main body of the device from stainless steel. This means that it is more hard wearing and lasts longer than conventional aluminium devices. Moreover, the problem of abrasion on the material that can lead to dangerously sharp edges forming is virtually eliminated. Conclusion: the contact area for the thumb is comfortable to use and its attachment at the release hole functions super - bly. Thanks to its stainless steel design, the device is small and lightweight. The braking mechanism works superbly. The Mega Jul heralds the birth of a compact, safer all-round belay device that covers all climbing requirements. 31 NORMS AND STANDARDS

Climbing is all about trust. We trust our belay devices and our partners with our lives. To ensure that this is not simply a matter of blind faith, all our belay devices conform to strict internal and elaborate external standards. This is the only way to guarantee that a device will reliably perform its duties, providing that it is used properly. At EDELRID, we view the following norms and standards as minimum requirements. EDELRID belay devices not only fulfil, but also exceed these standards.

CE mark (European Conformity) This symbol indicates that the manufacturer confirms their responsibility; it shows that a product meets all the relevant European Union requirements. It is the technical passport that is required before a product can be sold within the European Union. However, it is not man- datory for all product groups. For example, manual braking devices do not require a CE mark and are not bound by a European standard. The CE mark means that a product complies with all the relevant requirements and that it is officially certified. The number after the CE sym- bol, indicates the certification body, e.g. CE 0123 stands for TÜV SÜD Product Service GmbH.

ISO 9001 ISO 9001 is internationally-recognised quality management system certification. This standard is used to define, establish, and maintain effective quality manufacturing proces- ses in order to assure the quality of a product.

EN Standards The European Standards (European Norms EN) are technical rules and definitions that have been drawn up specifically for products and product groups requiring standardisa- tion. European standards ensure uniform standardisation across Europe. An EN symbol is always indicated with the number of the standard. The standards for belay devices are EN 15151-1 for braking devices with manually assisted locking (e.g. semi-automatic devices) EN and EN 15151-2 for manual braking devices (e.g. tubular belay devices). Products with an EN standard fulfil prescribed safety standards and have passed a type inspection conduc- ted by a testing institute. However, external testing is not mandatory for all product groups (e.g. manual braking devices). In such cases, the manufacturer is exempted and allowed to test products with internal quality control procedures.

UIAA This symbol shows that a product fulfils the requirements of the International Union of Alpine Associations (UIAA) standard. It is a special standard for climbing and mountainee- ring products. The UIAA has been developing practice-driven standards for decades. UIAA standards conform with EN standards, but are not binding.

32 www.edelrid.de 33 NORMS AND STANDARDS

All our belay and abseil devices comply with these standards and have undergone the required testing. In the next section, we’ll demonstrate how belay devices are tested to fulfil EN standards 15151-1 and 15151-2.

Test methods according to 15151-1 The European Standard 15151-1 defines the safety requirements and test methods for “braking devices with manually assisted locking”, i.e. ‘semi-automatic’ or ‘auto-locking’ belay devices, such as the EDELRID Eddy. To meet the requirements of this standard, these belay devices have to pass three tests. In all three tests the braking rope is not fixed. This means that the test set-up simulates letting go of the braking rope, i.e. the worst possible belaying error. During testing, the thinnest diameter rope is used – as specified in the manufacturer’s user manual. All tested belay devices display the permitted rope diameters and the standard according to which they have been tested.

The first test is a blocking load test. The belay device is put in blocking position and loaded with 2 kN (which corresponds to ca 200 kg). The rope is permitted maximum slippage of 30 cm and there must be no damage to the device or the rope. If the device is intended for use with twin ropes, it’s tested with two strands.

The second test is the static strength test. The rope is attached to a fixed anchor point knot. The incoming rope is given a stopper knot, clamp or plate to prevent it from running into the device. With the belay device blocked, it’s loaded for one minute with 8 kN (800kg). Again, the device shall not break nor release the loaded rope.

The final test assesses dynamic performance when belaying. The rope is connected to an 80 kg test mass. This is then dropped three times from a height of one metre above the belay device. The average slippage of the rope through the belay device may need exceed 1.50 m. Moreover, maximum slippage in any of the three tests is not allowed to exceed 1.8 m.

80 kg

F = 2 kN for 60 s F = 8 kN for 60 s 2000 mm 2000

F 1500 mm 1500 F

34 www.edelrid.de Test methods according to 15151-2 The European Standard 15151-2 governs the safety requirements and test methods for “manual braking devices”, i.e. tubular devices, including devices with assisted braking, such as the Mega Jul. In the static strength test, these types of belay device have to withstand a force of 7 kN (700 kg) for single ropes and twin ropes and 5 kN (500kg) for a half ropes (one strand) for one minute and are not allowed to release the loaded rope. The test is carried out with ropes of both the maximum and minimum diameter speci- fied in the manufacturer’s instructions for use. There is one key difference to the tests for semi-automatic devices (EN 15151-1) – the braking rope is fixed. Why? Because dynamic belay devices are only designed to increase your own braking force. Should you let go of the braking rope, there is no way to arrest a fall. As a result, these belay devices are only tested with the braking rope fixed to an attachment point. A second test is carried out for devices designed to be used as a direct belay anchor, i.e. if the belay device has an additional attachment point (for example a hole) for releasing it to bring up a second in guide mode. If this is the case, the belay device has to be able to withstand a force of 8 kN for one minute.

F = 7 kN/5 kN for 60 s

30° F = 8 kN for 60 s

35 INDEX

Belaying with an Italian hitch Page 16 Release hole Page 09 Blocking load test Page 34 Release lever Page 31 Body dynamics Page 10 Requirements profile Page 30 Braking hand principle Page 24 Rope Page 26 Braking mechanism Page 24 Rope diameter Page 26 Braking performance Page 29 Rope run through Page 24 CE mark (European Conformity) Page 32 Rubber retainer Page 12 Development process Page 30 Safety reserves Page 06 Dülfersitz Page 04 Sensor hand Page 25 Dynamic belaying Page 29 Sheath condition Page 26 Dynamic braking action Page 22 Single tubular belay device Page 09 Dynamic test Page 34 Spotting Page 28 Edges Page 27 Standards Page 32 Figure of eight Page 12 Static strength test Page 34 Functional prototype Page 30 Sticht plate Page 05 Gloves Page 27 Testing institute Page 28 Hemp rope Page 04 Tubular belay device Page 08 HMS carabiner Page 16 Tubular belay device with assisted braking Page 10 HMS carabiner positioning Page 22 UIAA Page 32 Intended purpose Page 22 Weight bag Page 18 ISO 9001 Page 32 Weight difference Page 18 Italian hitch Page 16 Locking carabiner Page 08 Lowering lever Page 14 Manual belay devices Page 06 Manually assisted locking Page 07 Ohm Page 18 Panic and grasp reflex Page 14 Panic locking element Page 14 Prototype Page 30 Quality management Page 32

Disclaimer: this handbook provides information about the different types of climbing equipment and its uses. The contents only provide an overview and make no claim to be exhaustive. In addition, we would also like to point out that the techniques shown in this booklet are not a substitute for reading the user manual belonging to the relevant product or reading the appropriate standard literature. , climbing and working at heights or underground often involve hidden risks and dangers from external factors. A risk of accidents cannot be ruled out. For more detailed and in-depth information, please refer to the applicable literature. However, even user manuals and instructions will never be a substitute for experience, personal responsibility and knowledge of the risks involved in mountaineering, climbing and working at heights or under - ground. They do not release the user from taking responsibility. The equipment may only be used by trained, experienced people or under appropriate supervision and instruction. Before using the equipment, users must first familiarize themselves with how to use it correctly in a safe environment. The manufacturer cannot be held liable if the equipment is misused and/or used incorrectly. Users and or the persons responsible will bear the responsi- bility and risks in all cases.

36 www.edelrid.de