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Photos from the Eyjafjallajökul Erruption by Ingolfur Juliusson

Other useful and informative links: The Icelandic Met Office webpages are where you can get an up-to- the-minute weather forecast for your holiday. It is also an education in itself, with informative pages (in English) on earthquakes as well as information about the Eyafjallajokull and Katla volcanoes. (There are no signs of Katla or Hekla erupting any time soon, by the way!) http:// en.vedur.is/weather/forecasts/areas/ Links to the more scientific and reliable northern lights prediction sites: www.swpc.noaa.gov/pmap/pmapN.html www.raunvis.hi.is/~halo/leirvogur.html www.swpc.noaa.gov/pmap/pmapN.html www.gedds.alaska.edu/AuroraForecast/ShortTerm.asp

Iceland rolls out the winter carpet The Road Administration website provides hourly updates on road conditions for all roads in Iceland, whether they be gravel or paved. Some and puts on her holiday finery roads are only open in summer or are only passable with 4x4 jeeps. You can access that information here: http://www.vegagerdin.is/english/ The idea that Iceland might be a in Iceland open year round, making winter travel destination is a new Iceland a very attractive destination concept in many people’s minds. for winter travel. “What?” you are thinking to yourself, Publisher: Text by: “Isn’t it dark and cold, with snow Be sure to check out our up-to- Interland ehf. Andrew Scott Fortune storms and wild weather?” Think date information from Iceland´s Postbox 514 [email protected] “exciting weather, invigorating Civil Defence about the state of 121 Reykjavík Marie Valgardsson (+354) 534-1880 [email protected] coolness, spectacular landscapes... the Eyjafjallajökull Volcano and the www.landogsaga.is Kelly Baumann www.istex.is blissfully peaceful...and even cosy surrounding areas that were affected www.icelandictimes.is [email protected] romantic northern lights-watching by Iceland´s most recent eruption. Vignir Andri Guðmundsson weather” and then you’ll get a picture Editor and General Manager: Einar Th. Thorsteinsson [email protected] of all that awaits you in Iceland this So whether you are contemplating [email protected] Nanna Hlín Halldórsdóttir winter. a short hop over to Reykjavik for [email protected] some weekend holiday fun, or you’re Sales and Marketing: This issue focuses on South planning a longer summer tour to Elín Björg Ragnarsdóttir Front page: Iceland and the myriad things to catch the midnight sun, we wish you [email protected] Northern Lights in Thingvellir Authentic Iceland do throughout the year, which are a safe and pleasant journey. Design and Layout: Photo by: Olgeir Andrésson easily accessible for day tours from Ingólfur Júlíusson For over a 1000 years, Icelandic weather has been a key factor in developing the capital. You will find more and Goða ferð! (Have a good trip!) [email protected] a protective wool, a natural shelter from harsh conditions. more accommodation and services The next issue of Icelandic Times will be published in February 2011. The opinions expressed in Icelandic Times do not necessarily reflect those of the editor, publishers or their agents. Though the content of this issue have been meticulously prepared, no warranty is made about the accuracy and completeness of its content. Copyright © December, 2010 Interland ehf. All rights reserved

2 The Tourist Information Centre The house at Adalstraeti 2, A sweet deal with the that gives you rides on city buses, a beautifully restored 19th Reykjavik Welcome Card admission to many top museums, Did you know? century timber house, is located One of the best offers available seven thermal thermal pools and in one of the oldest and most is the Reykjavik Welcome Card. the Reykjavik Zoo and Family Park. The Reykjavik picturesque parts of Reykjavik. Not justa discount card, but a card Sweet! The building, known as ‘Geysir Tourist Husið’ to most Icelanders, was once used as a general store, Information stocked with goods of all kinds Centre received and quickly became the ‘in’ place to shop in Reykjavik’s early over 350,000 days. visitors in 2009. Today, it’s the home of Reykjavik’s official Tourist Information Centre and is brimming with all the latest information about Reykjavik culture, events, accommodation, tours and more. Carrying a wide array of maps and brochures covering the whole of Iceland, this is where you can change money or get your VAT refund on the spot. Friendly and knowledgeable multi- lingual staff will help you choose The Reykjavik Welcome Card is between the myriad of things to do available in 3 different ‘sizes’: and help you to get the most out of 24 hrs. Card: Ikr. 1.500 your stay in Iceland. 48 hrs. Card: Ikr. 2.000 72 hrs. Card: Ikr. 2.500

4 Northern Lights We are one of the leading tour operators in Iceland and offer professional services, flexibility and safety for travellers in Iceland.

Allow us to introduce you to the variety that Iceland has to offer; from it’s richness in culture and history to its breathtaking beauty in nature and daily life.

Enjoy Iceland with Iceland Excursions – Gray Line Iceland Westman Islands

photo: Ragnar Th. Sigurdsson

Have you seen those Yule Lads? Gullfoss Perhaps its not just by lamented one parent. canned goods they are not bringing coincidence that the Yule Lads or In 1857, around the time a man Then, they got into the chest freezer to us-- they are taking from us! Jólasveinar, as they are known in named Klaus from Finland was and seized the leg of lamb that was This story does have a happy Icelandic, are virtually unheard of awarded the international “Best meant for Christmas dinner! They ending however. In a rare display outside Iceland! Their parents are Choice Ever” for Santa Claus award, don’t bring you stuff at Christmas, like of repentance they decided to give Grýla and Leppalúði, trolls who the Yule Lads noticed that they still a proper Santa would. They march in everything back, (except for two Taste the Saga live in the mountains with their had a ways to go if they ever hoped and make off with your Christmas candy canes which they took from the black cat. They have all sorts of to compete for the pre-eminent role dinner! Can you believe these guys? Christmas tree). They also decided funny names like Skyr-gobbler, of Father Christmas in their latter Taking our Christmas leg of lamb in that putting all their loot back into Þingvellir National Park Window-Peeper, Gully-Gawker, years. It has been very touch and hopes of making off with it without the washing machine, was of course, Meat-Hook, Spoon-Licker, go for them in this department as me noticing? the most logical place. and Door-Sniffer, their names the kind and benevolent qualities of describing their modus operandi Saint Klaus have been a bit beyond Hey! That’s our leg of lamb you got You see? I told you they are making over the Christmas Season, them. However, to their credit, we there! Note the sack bulging with progress in their moral development! starting on 12th December. have noticed some changes over Each one arrives in turn, leaving time, including the donning of the After doing somersaults, they roared off Day Tours Day ToursDay Tours2010 2 weeks later, with the last one de rigueur red suit and the placing of in their rescue jeep. That’s the jeep that Activities FREE COPY DayDay Tours Tours Gullfoss leaving on 6th January. I won’t tell gifts in children’s shoes if they have rescues them out of all their disgracefully & you here what kinds of mischief been good. They who? The Yule un-Christmas-like behaviour. they have been up to over the Lads or the children? A profound centuries .....let me tell you, you question. The last one, named Candle-Beggar, do NOT want to know what they steals candles or at least used to have been up to! A few days before Christmas, two when they were made of tallow, Contact us Tel.: +354 540 1313 Vestmannaeyjar which is edible. He must have been Email: [email protected] Geysir Area Yule Lads came to our house! ATV Day Tours Lately, it has been rumoured that These guys are still up to tricks and Here are two of them chatting desperately poor to have to eat

Day ToursJökulsárlón Whale Watching together in a shop in Hveragerði candles.....but that was then and this Skógafoss these naughty guys are to blame for managed to pilfer a type of sausage Blue Lagoon DayDayRiver Rafting Tours Tours much of Iceland’s economic woes. that they helped themselves to from where they were greeting is now. Really not sure what he does Visit our sales office downtown at Lækjartorg or go to www.grayline.is “We just thought the Yule Lads were the fridge, - without asking mind customers and were overheard now with wax candles, but the good rather harmless and had no idea they you! After that, they opened all the discussing the possibility of buying news is that he leaves on 6th January, Visit our sales office at Lækjartorg square, would have such disastrous effects a much needed corset for their when we can all rest easy.....sort of..... kitchen cupboards and filled their mother Gryla. call us at (+354) 540 1313 or go to www.grayline.is. on the moral fibre of our children,” sacks with canned goods! until next year.

6 Some of the best birding sites are the lake Skúmsstaðavatn and surroundings, Oddaflóð (protected) and lake Lambhagavatn. Large numbers of wildfowl and waders breed in the area and pass through in the spring and autumn.

The valley of Mýrdalur is a rich Lakes, ponds and marshes can be birding area, with Reynisfjall, found across the lowland areas of Reynisdrangar and Dyrhólaey the Landeyjar and Rangarárvellir. Some chief birding sites. Puffins breed of the best birding sites are the lake on the cliffs at Víkurhamrar above Skúmsstaðavatn and surroundings, the village of Vík (the furthest Oddaflóð (protected) and lake colony from the sea in the world), Lambhagavatn. Large numbers of on Mt Reynisfjall and the headland wildfowl and waders breed in the Dyrhólaey, while Common area and pass through in the spring Guillemot and Razorbill breed at and autumn. the sea stacks Reynisdrangar and at Dyrhólaey. There is a huge Arctic Two of the larger lakes in the area, Tern colony at Vík and a smaller Apavatn and Laugarvatn, along one at Dyrhólaey. with adjoining wetlands and rivers, are among the best sites for ducks Þjórsárver to the south of the glacier in southern Iceland. Barrow’s Hofsjökull is the most expansive Goldeneye, Common Goldeneye oasis in the central highlands. It and Goosander winter here. array of birds all year and it is of on passage alike. The Red-throated is an area of spectacular scenery, Harlequin Ducks breed locally and particular importance for migrants Diver is the characteristic bird of with rich swathes of vegetation hundreds of Scaup, Tufted Duck such as Knot, Dunlin, Sanderling, the Flói reserve and Dunlin and Birds of Southern Iceland alternating with barren sands and Red-breasted Merganser stop Turnstone, Brent Goose, Eurasian Black-tailed Godwit are particularly - A Birdwatcher’s Paradise and glaciers. The area represents off on passage and are also common Wigeon and various other ducks. common here. Ölfusforir is an very important breeding and breeders. excellent birding location in winter, moulting grounds for Pink-footed On either side of the estuary of attracting large flocks of Teal, Birds of Southern Iceland is a is it an important staging area on wintering area for birds. A rich The bird life of the great glacial sands Geese. Other breeders include Sogið, the river which flows out of the Ölfusá river there are two Mallard and Goosander, as well as programme offering excellent migration, but breeding birds are mosaic of wetlands stretches from of the south coast has a character all of Great Northern Diver, Whooper lake Þingvallavatn, is one of Iceland’s large wetlands: BirdLife Iceland’s Iceland’s largest concentration of year-round services for well represented in spring and Höfn all the way west to the glacial its own. It is the kingdom of the Great Swan, Long-tailed Duck, Purple best locations for winter ducks. It is reserve at Flói on the east bank, Grey Heron. birdwatchers. Southern Iceland summer. It is also the region’s main sands of Breiðamerkursandur. Skua and is home to the largest colony Sandpiper, Red-necked Phalarope, home to the largest flock of Barrow’s and Ölfusforir on the west bank. has a great deal to offer visiting of this charismatic species on Earth. Arctic Tern and Snow Bunting. Goldeneye outside Mývatn and is Both are large expanses of pools www.facebook.com/ birdwatchers with its wide variety Wherever there is sufficient water, Part of Þjórsárver is protected and the main winter site for Common and lakes which attract numerous birdsofsouthiceland of habitats, including wetlands, vegetation sprouts up and attracts a Ramsar site. Goldeneye in Iceland. Goosander, birds in the breeding season and Visit South Iceland www.south.is seabird colonies, highland oases a range of birds. The spectacular Red-breasted Merganser and Tufted and unique coastlines. The Skaftafell area contains woodlands Another key birding location in Duck are common. White-tailed largest colonies of Puffin, Pink- and a variety of species. footed Goose and Great Skua the highlands is the chain of lakes Eagles are often seen in winter and called Veiðivötn. This beautiful and Harlequin Ducks move up the river in the world are located within The areas Landbrot and Meðalland unusual landscape has been shaped in spring. Lake Þingvallavatn itself this region, together with the support a wide range of birds. by repeated volcanic activity and is known for its breeding Great Europe’s largest Leach’s Storm- The region’s wetlands are varied most of the lakes are located in Northern Divers. petrel colony. South Iceland has and include flood-meadows, craters. Great Northern Divers are a wide range of accommodation lakes, springs, streams and lava particularly common, and other The coastline between the mouths from camp sites to 4 -star hotels fields. Breeding birds include breeding birds include Whooper of the great glacial rivers Ölfusá and and some within a short driving Horned Grebe and various ducks. Swan, Pink-footed Goose, Scaup, Þjórsá is the largest lava shoreline in distance from Reykjavik. The freshwater springs attract Long-tailed Duck, Harlequin Duck, Iceland and forms the southern end numerous birds in the winter and Ringed Plover, Purple Sandpiper, of the vast Þjórsárhraun lava field Hornafjörður and Stakksfjörður are form important wintering grounds Arctic Tern and Snow Bunting. which flowed 8,000 years ago and shallow fjords or coastal lagoons on for Barrow’s Goldeneye, Common Barrow’s Goldeneye winters here is the largest post-ice age lava flow either side of the village of Höfn. Goldeneye and Goosander. White- and has recently bred. on Earth. Inland there are myriad The area is home to large numbers fronted Geese are common visitors lakes and ponds. The area hosts an of birds all year round. Not only on spring and autumn passage. 8 9 REYST Educating the next generation of

specialists in sustainable energy H2 hönnun The Reykjavik Energy Graduate and 60 homes in 1930. Today almost School of Sustainable Systems Did you know? 90% of Iceland´s houses, buildings or REYST opened its doors in • Iceland’s water is of such high quality and purity that no treatment and swimming pools are heated by Suzuki Grand Vitara 4WD Comanche Montana August 2008, with its first class of is needed whatsoever. geothermal sources. international students graduating • Several restaurants and bakeries in Iceland make traditional in January 2010. The school, a steam-baked rye bread cooked in steam boxes right in the ground. With the worldwide demand for cooperation between Reykjavik • The first geothermally heated greenhouses in Iceland were built in energy expected to increase 50% by University, the University of 1924 and now account for 2% of geothermal energy consumption. the year 2030, the need for trained Iceland and Reykjavik Energy, specialists in sustainable energy offers a full Master’s programme being one of the poorest countries Happy Birthday, Geothermal around the globe is greater than ever If you want to visit and enjoy in sustainable energy including in Europe, dependent on peat and Energy! and Reykjavik Graduate School of geothermal energy, hydro-electric imported coal for its energy needs, In November of 2010, Reykjavik Sustainable Systems is prepared to power, wind power and others. to a country with a high standard of Energy celebrated the 80th anniversary help meet this growing need. Icelandic nature, then start your The programme is unique in that living where almost 82% of its energy of the first use of natural hot water it brings together 3 disciplines: is derived from geothermal and hydro- being piped directly into two primary Icelandic experts participate in Engineering, Earth Science and electric sources. schools, several swimming pools geothermal projects worldwide, journey by visiting www.rbcars.is Business, giving students an and have contributed to the world’s opportunity to not only learn the best known geothermal projects in theory behind sustainable energy but the United States, China, Indonesia, to also be involved in all aspects of the Philippines, Germany, Hungary, practical hands-on energy projects and Djibouti, Eritrea, Nicaragua, India, problem solving, business application Dubai and El Salvador to name but and implementation. a few.

The Pioneers of Sustainable For more information about REYST RB bílaleiga ehf. Skipholt 11-13 Energy please see their website: www.reyst.is 105 Reykjavík · Iceland Because of the country’s special Tel: (+354) 578 6500 If you bring this note to us when you rent a geographic location, Iceland has For more information on geothermal Mobile: (+354) 824 6500 developed into one of the world energy in Iceland please see the [email protected] car or a trailer tent you will receive a gift. National Energy Authority website: pioneers in the use of renewable www.rbcars.is energy. It is remarkable that in just the www.nea.is last century, Iceland has gone from REYST Graduating class of 2008 with director Edda Lilja Sveinsdóttir, centre 10 National Museum of Iceland —A state-of-the-art museum that any curator would be proud of

The Making of a Nation - Heritage and History in Iceland The Permanent Exhibition at the museum takes you on a journey through time, wending its way through the centuries from the Settlement Period right up to the present. Nearly 1,200 years of Iceland’s history is divided into 7 periods of time, presented in chronological order and is vividly portrayed by a collection of some 2,000 historical objects and 1,000 photographs throughout. The exhibition starts with the arrival of Settlers to Iceland by boat and ends at a modern-day luggage conveyor belt from Keflavik Airport, loaded with memorabilia from each decade of the last century.

Those cute little turf houses... The National Museum has a collection of over forty historic buildings scattered around Iceland publishes Icelandic heritage and events in the museum dedicated entertaining lecture in English by which are under its care and history books in several languages to various themes about life in Terry Gunnell, Professor of History protection. In South Iceland one that are available for purchase in Iceland. at the University of Iceland of the best preserved turf buildings the museum shop. is the ancient farm Keldur in The Christmas Programme The Museum Cafe Rangarvellir, which is mentioned in Temporary Exhibitions (5 - 24 December 2010) A pleasant café with floor to ceiling Njall’s Saga, and is easily accessible Throughout the year there are 5th–6th Dec.: Exhibition of windows is situated on the ground in the summer. These unique turf numerous temporary exhibits and Christmas trees in Iceland from floor just opposite the Museum houses were the principle type of different periods. Shop: sandwiches, light lunches, dwelling from the 11th century until 5th–6th Dec.: The 13 Yuletide Lads’ cakes and pastries, tea and coffee well into the 20th century, even as Christmas House exhibition gives are served. late as the 1950’s. There are only a complete picture of the Icelandic a few remaining in South Iceland Yuletide Lads or Jólasveinn. whereas many surviving turf houses 12th–24th Dec.: Live Happening - Opening Hours: and even a few turf churches are to “The Yuletide Lads are Coming” Summer: be found in North Iceland. Good - a succession of Yuletide Lads (1st May - 15th September) examples of turf farms are at Laufás arrive at the museum (in order of Daily 10 - 17 in Eyjafjordur (near Akureyri) and appearance) to the delight of young Winter Bustarfell in Vopnafjordur ( North and old alike with humorous tales (16th September - 20th April) West Iceland). These are open to from their mountain home. Daily except Mondays 11- 17 the public in the summer. 19th Dec.: The Icelandic Yule - an Free admission on The Museum Shop Wednesdays If you are looking for a special something, sold nowhere else in the Address: world, then check out the Museum Sudurgata 41 Shop with its unique selection of 101 Reykjavik fine gifts. The museum collaborates Phone : +354 530 2200 with Icelandic designers and artisans to produce a range of items that Admission Prices: are connected to Iceland’s history Adults: 1000 kr. including: specialty chocolate bars, Senior citizens and students: designer woollen goods, children’s 500 kr. toys, cards, stationery and more. Groups of 10+: 600 kr. The Museum of Iceland also Children under 18: Free

12 “Seeing Reykjavik without a guide is like leaving your glasses at home!” — what better ÁrborgTourist Information Centre way to sum up the Season Tour experience! Tourist Information and Árborg Library

15. May - 31. August Upplýsingamiðstöð Monday through Friday: 10:00 - 18:00 Information · Internet · Art · Library Saturday: 11:00 - 14:00 Telephone: (+354) 480 1990

We encourage you to pay us a visit in the Tourist information centre. We provide a wide variety of services, combined with the services of the library where the information office is located.

Our services include: • Tourist information ( 15. may- 31. august) • Free maps with service lists • Books, maps, postcards and stamps for sale • Internet access for 200 kr. per half hour • Books in English for sale or trade • Magazines for reading at the library Short on time? Summer scooter tours - a fabulously fun way to experience • Copy machine Reykjavik. ☎ 480 1990 • Hotspot for your laptop South Coast Plus - a cosy Austurvegur 2 · 800 Selfoss ... and last but not least; friendly staff! guided tour for two to eight tourinfo.arborg.is · [email protected] people Did you know? This guided tour of the South Coast takes you to places off the beaten Season Tours also Season Tours track like Thakgil, where you can have dinner in a cave! A unique offers guided experience not on your average tour’s itinerary! You’ll visit some amazing day tours by A Tour for all waterfalls, including Urridafoss, jeep or minibus Seljalandsfoss and Skogarfoss, and visit the towns of Skogar and Vik. Ice Iceland Tour Services walking, driving in the mountains to popular above Vik, or having dinner at the Seasons beach front ‘Havið Bláa’ restaurant destinations Friendly and informal tours We are a small fully licensed sights using electric bicycles, leaving are other possibilities on this tour. for two to eight people make you refreshed but not breathless. The around Iceland family bus and Travel agency in Season Tours perfect for small tour starts at the old harbour and Go to www.seasontours.com for a Iceland. Our fleet is of the highest groups or couples. The folks at takes the ‘long route’ around the city, complete list of tours offered. quality and includes buses of all Season Tours are all experts at stopping at all the major sites and types and sizes. ferreting out fascinating facts on to the highest point in Reykjavik: about Iceland. Each guide has a Hallgrimskirkja Church, finally diploma in tour guiding from the culminating downtown. We provide first class services University of Iceland and they * El Bike Tour is not Spanish...it just to groups, individuals and travel make it their business to know means ‘electric bike tour’ agencies that need ground their country and to know it well! transportation or guided tours to You will come away from a Season Hiking Tours any location in Iceland. Tour more knowledgeable and Lots of people hike Mt Esja, that have a better understanding of beautiful mountain that overlooks the people, the culture and the Reykjavik, but Season Tour’s Guided Quick transfer from or to the history of Iceland. Mt. Esja Hike, offers no less than airport, we can also arrange for four separate Mt. Esja tours. They short or long sightseeing trips in El BikeTour* of Reykjavik each vary in their degree of difficulty and around Reykjavik. Some people’s idea of travel is to and length and are jam-packed with zip through a city/area/country so tidbits of geology, history old and fast you wonder if they really see new, plus information about elves Please feel free to contact us for more information via email or phone. anything! Season Tours, on the other & trolls in the area...stuff that even Best regards hand, offers the traveller a slower and your average Icelander doesn’t Time tours and Time travel / [email protected] / www.timetours.is a more healthy approach to seeing the know! Enjoying Icelandic cuisine with Season Tour´s dining tour Tel: +354 578 7111 / Mobil: +354 869 7111

14 Characterised by turbulent rivers, the area encompasses Iceland’s largest forest and rolling highlands inhabited by herds of wild reindeer, something quite unique to this corner of the country.

swans, waders and ever-popular steep mountains and jagged peaks. eider ducks. Both the village of The area is brilliant for winter Djupivogur and the Uthérað Coast sports; snowmobile riders favour are excellent for birdwatching. the highlands and skiers gather from around Iceland to enjoy the Extreme adventures slopes at Oddskard in the Fjords. In the ice and snow in the nearby Vatnajökull during the Food for thought winter and spring, you can visit East Iceland is renowned for its the magnificient Icecaves of wonderful local food. Game such Eyjabakkajökull or enjoy the as Reindeer and ptarmigan are the once–in–a–lifetime adventure of local speciality which, along with East Iceland – Only an hour away bathing in the warm waters of the delicious lamb and the freshest of Kverkfjöll ice caves. In the east you fish, organic greens, wild berries can also experience some of the and mushrooms make the heart of From sparkling glaciers, across largest forest and rolling highlands corner of the country. Home to a by Húsey, East Iceland also boats best northern lights while enjoying the region’s prize-winning cuisine. black deserts and volcanic inhabited by herds of wild reindeer, large population of seals, which are a wide variety of birdlife, including a warm natural bath at the edge of Regardless of whether you want to craters, to emerald valleys something quite unique to this most easily seen along the coast most migrant birds, skuas, Europe’s largest glacier. Tours are go birdwatching or spot reindeer, and dramatic fjords – much of available from Egilsstaðir that make maybe experience the extreme what makes Iceland so unique this a breathtaking experience. adventures of the arctic winter or can be found in the East of Travelling towards the coast, the simply enjoy a romantic get-away, the country. Mysterious and East Fjords reveal a magnificent East Iceland is a magical place to seemingly remote, it is in fact landscape of long, narrow fjords, do it. only an hour away on one of the frequent domestic flights. Make sure you get a window seat! Egilsstaðir, the region’s largest town with an excellent airport, makes a good starting point for any trip. It is situated on the banks of lake Lögurinn, a beautiful 35km-long lake whose milky glacial waters are said to be home to Iceland’s ancient equivalent of the Loch Ness monster, the terrifying ‘Lagarfljótsormur’ or Wyrm.

Winter wildlife Characterised by turbulent rivers, the area encompasses Iceland’s

16 17 The puffin www.alafoss.is The puffin is approx. 30 cm. tall Its wingspan is 15 -17 cm. It weighs 300-450 gms. It lives in the North Atlantic Total population is approx. 14 million

It gets its directions from the moon, but it sometimes confuses city lights with the moon and ends up in the town. In the Westmann Islands, the children collect them all and bring them back to sea.

The puffin in Iceland The biggest puffin colonies are in the Westmann Islands. Several million nest there annually. In recent years with fewer sand eels in the sea, possibly due to global warming, many pufflings have died as their parents cannot bring them enough food. Puffin hunting, which has been practised on the coasts of Iceland for many centuries, has been limited because of this. Other puffin colonies close to Reykjavík, are on the small islands of Lundey and Akurey right off the coast and in Andríðsey a bit further north. They are also found in The– The bird that has become Puffin synonymous with Iceland Breiðafjörður fjord, on the island of Vigur in the West Fjords, Grímsey, Puffins are seabirds and they priest. In Icelandic, it has often been single egg. The hole itself is unique; the northernmost island of Iceland spend most of their time at called “the Dean” or the “Priest”. the puffin digs it uphill to prevent it and Skrúður in the East. sea. Only from the end of April In other languages, it has been from getting wet during rainy days With over 10 million living around can they be seen near their called the “clown of the air” or “sea and puts some corners inside it to its coasts, Iceland is the ideal nesting locations on land, right parrot”–probably due to its colourful use as a toilet. location to see the puffins and many before they begin to mate. Both beak, one of its most remarkable Incubation takes 6 weeks though travellers even visit especially to male and female acquire their characteristics. The beak has blue, the puffin does not lie on the egg like see this small, strange bird. The colourful beaks at this time. yellow and red stripes, though only most other birds but protects it with remainder are scattered around At sea, they are silent but during from nesting time in the spring until its wings. After birth, the puffling is the coasts of Ireland, the Faroe breeding, the puffins are vocal, their autumn, becoming dark brown fed well on sand eels as it needs up Islands and Norway, in Europe and sound being monotonous, long and after that. to one third of its weight in food of Newfoundland and Maine, in 1896 creaking. every day. When not getting food for America. Compared to many other birds, the The puffin islands and its puffling, the parents can be seen puffin’s flight seems clumsy, but it colonies sitting comfortably in front of their can fly fast. The puffin’s real talent Unlike its cousins of the auk family, holes, enjoying life. is to dive. It can dive down to about the puffin does not make its nest After feeding it for 40 days, the 60 meters and stay underwater for on the cliff face but in grassy hills parents leave the puffling and fly to almost 2 minutes. It makes great use above it. There, they make a hole sea. Hunger causes the puffling to of this talent to fish the sand eel for in the ground in which they lay a try to fly and it leaves the nest, too. its pufflings.

The “Dean” or the “Clown Places to see puffins

of the Ocean” SJÁALDRIÐ 2010 The puffin has been called many Westmann Islands WARMTH FOR MORE THAN A CENTURY! names, as its appearance and Lundey, Akurey and Andríðsey by Reykjavík special walk often resembles some Breiðafjörður fjörd human characteristics. It belongs to Hafnarhólminn by Borgarfjörður eystri fjörd the auk family and its Latin name is Skrúður by Fáskrúðsfjörður fjörd Fratercula artica. Fratercula literally Vigur in Ísafjarðardjúp WOOL SWEATERS, ÁLAFOSSVEGUR 23 means “little brother”, referring to the Ingólfshöfði and Reynisfjall by Vík í Mýrdal bird’s resemblance to a monk or a BLANKETS & ACCESORIES, MOSFELLSBÆR TRADITIONAL CRAFTS OPEN: MON -FRI 9:00 - 18:00 18 AND MODERN ART & SAT 9:00 - 16:00 the exposure time and aperture and on an icy patch. My foot broke I won this competition with the same you can see right away what you through the ice and I fell in up to my photo that was in Times Square. My have done and make the necessary knees. As I fell, I let out a yelp and work has also appeared in many changes. The second piece of immediately an arctic fox somewhere different magazines, adverts and equipment you need is a tripod. in the distance answered my cry with books around the world. The smaller tour companies that do another yelp! My foot was stuck, but This summer my new book, Northern Lights tours often offer I eventually dislodged it and had to “Northern Lights in Iceland” tripods, but it is good to check this use my tripod as a crutch to walk came out in English & German, before you come. Also make sure the remaining fifteen metres to my showcasing the best of my last 3 years you are warmly dressed, because car. My leg is healed now but it was of work. Its available in bookstores you are sometimes spending up to a good lesson in watching where you throughout Iceland and you can 4 or 5 hours out there watching the step in Iceland! also pick up a copy at the Keflavik lights. Get away from the city lights Airport bookstore before you catch and check the websites listed below What about the colours? your flight home. for the forecast before you go. From The Northern Lights are most Reykjavik, you only need to go about frequently a greenish colour but If you have questions about Northern 10 minutes outside the city to be able as they start moving faster, other Light photography, Olgeir would be to see them without interference colours appear - often pink, violet happy to help. You can contact him from city lights. and sometimes red. Red is quite rare at: [email protected] but I think in the next couple of years Olgeir Andrésson, photographer What have been the most unusual we will start seeing more of these Olgeir’s portfolio can be viewed here: reactions you have had from totally red Northern Lights. If the olgeir.zenfolio.com/ people who see the Northern activity is at a ‘10’ they are so bright Lights for the first time? it is almost like daytime. This is very The following websites publish One time, I had a small group with difficult to capture and this is where regular updates of auroral Tales from a Northern me and a woman in the group got I have to put down my camera and activity: so excited she was jumping up and just enjoy the moment. www.swpc.noaa.gov/pmap/ down holding on to my arm, her pmapN.html nails digging into my skin. It was Any awards or publications? www.raunvis.hi.is/~halo/ Olgeir does all the preparations for his Northern a phenomenal occasion and the Kodak displayed one of my photos leirvogur.html Lights’ Hunter www.gedds.alaska.edu/ forecast rating was a ‘10’. She was on the big screen in New York’s Lights photos beforehand, and rarely relies on Can you tell us a little about when I was 14 years old, I got my first us optimal viewing. I was completely shouting, “Oh, my God! Is that real? Times Square in 2007 and I was AuroraForecast/ShortTerm.asp yourself? camera, a Kodak Instamatic 100. A fascinated with the Northern Lights Is this for real? I just can’t believe this chosen ‘Photographer of the Year’ in www.gedds.alaska.edu/ optimisation to perfect his work. I was born in Iceland in the little couple of years later, I switched to a from an early age and to this day, is real!!!” and she was going on like Denmark in 2008 by Zoom Magazine. AuroraForecast/ fishing village of Sandgerði on the Canon EOS 5d mark 2 and have used the fascination has never left me. I that. Reykjanes Peninsula. As a boy, I spent this same brand ever since. started photographing them about 4 many summers driving around the or 5 years ago on a full-time basis. Have you had any unusual whole country with my grandparents. What are your first memories of experiences on your ‘hunting’ It was my grandmother who first the Northern Lights? Do you only photograph the trips? taught me the basics of photography When we were young, my friends Northern Lights? In April of 2010, I was coming back with the little camera that she always and I used to lie in the snow, making For the most part, yes, and for two from a night of photography in carried with her on these trips. I soon snow angels and looking up at the reasons. One is that I love going out the highlands at about 2:30 in the became the main photographer for Northern Lights. We lived far from in our beautiful natural surroundings morning. This was in the spring and the family because I seemed to have any city centre and so going even just a when it is cold and fresh to watch the ground was just starting to thaw. developed an eye for photos! Then hundred metres from the house gave this stunning phenomena. It’s an On the way back to my car I stepped amazing thought that our ancestors were witnessing the same thing hundreds or thousands of years ago. Number two is because I love to share my talent with others. Just another reason to come to Iceland in the winter!

In recent years, there has been an explosion in the number of people who are eager to learn the technique of capturing the Northern Lights. Do you have any tips that you can share with us? The advent of the digital camera has made it a lot easier nowadays, because you have more control over Olgeir Andrésson, photographer

20 21 VATNAJÖKULSÞJÓÐGARÐUR CenterHotel Thingholt was NATIONAL PARK recently awarded a place on Expedia’s “Insider’s Exclusive WELCOME! List,” - an annual Vatnajökulsþjóðgarður is Europe’s largest national park. You are invited to see selection of top Iceland’s highest mountain along with volcanoes, waterfalls, lava fields, sand hotels around the deserts, and glaciers. Green oases, rich flora and birdlife. world. Climbers on Hvannadalshnúkur, Iceland‘s highest summit Hafragilsfoss, 2 km downstream from Dettifoss

Hótel Arnarhvoll CenterHotels of Reykjavik Ingólfsstræti 1 101 Reykjavík Email: [email protected]

Location, location, location Affordable yet trendy CenterHotel’s premises are located right in the centre of downtown CenterHotel Thingholt Reykjavik and so exploring local ‒ CenterHotel’s most celebrated and cafes, shops, galleries, nightlife, and innovative boutique hotel museums couldn’t be easier. The famous Laugavegur, probably Decorated in a truly timeless the best-known street in Reykjavik, Icelandic style, Hotel Thingholt was is just a two minute walk from designed by award winning Icelandic both Hotel Thingholt and Hotel architect Gulla Jónsdóttir. The floors Arnarhvoll, putting you right in the © Ragnar Th Sigurðsson are tiled in black leather and the lobby centre of the action. © Sigurgeir Sigurjónsson walls are covered in salmon-leather tiles. An impressive, long, black Stay connected via social lava-textured wall covered in dark media glass masks is meant to represent Stay connected and get the latest the hidden people of Iceland, while a about CenterHotels on Facebook, small and refreshing waterfall trickles Twitter and TripAdvisor. Find out down over it. what’s happening in Reykjavik via Coolness factor rating: Off the charts! CenterHotel’s Facebook page or try Happy hour at Center Hotel Thingholt is from 5pm to 9pm, every Friday your luck playing our Give-Away and Saturday. Hótel Thingholt Þingholtsstræti 3-5 game, also a frequent event on 101 Reykjavík Facebook where we give one lucky Email: [email protected] fan a free night’s stay, with breakfast included, at any one of our hotels; CenterHotel Arnarhvoll Thingholt, Arnarhvoll, Plaza, Klöpp This brand new hotel, right in the or Skjaldbreid. Reykjavik city centre, boasts modern CenterHotels website is:

Scandinavian design, providing © Skarphéðinn G. Þórisson www.centerhotels.com/ guests with a sophisticated and stylish Reindeer in the northeastern highlands environment. Excellent location, Laki craters personal service and breathtaking Did you know? © Helga Davids views overlooking the Reykjavik bay and the mountain ranges beyond ...CenterHotel Arnarhvoll are just a taste of what you can boasts a spa including expect when staying in CenterHotel Turkish bath and Finnish Visit our website www.vjp.is to find more information hönnun PORT Arnarhvoll. sauna. on Vatnajokull National Park.

22 The Lobster House Made From the Finest Ingredients Available The Icelandic Lobster is a delicacy you simply must try during your stay in Iceland and few are more experienced in preparing delicious lobster dishes than The Lobster House, situated in the heart of Reykjavík.

However, what most Icelanders call lobster is probably not what you think it is. The crustacean on offer in The Lobster House is actually a much smaller species called langoustine which is commonly found in the north-eastern Atlantic Ocean and North Sea. The langoustine is usually around 17 cm (6.7 inches) in length and weighs up to 400g, whereas the common lobster usually ranges from 20-40 cm (8-16 inches). The history of commercial langoustine fishing in Iceland only dates back around fifty years, but since its introduction to the Icelandic cuisine it has been considered one of the top gourmet foods available. giant lobster doesn’t come anywhere a cluster of old houses behind with the langoustine on it and inside The langoustine‘s smaller size near the langoustine when it comes a small peculiar garden with an the feast awaits. A Quiet Icelandic Christmas however does not mean less taste to taste and texture. The langoustine oversized chess board. On the most Further information is available on Leave the frenzy of holiday stop at the Blue Lagoon on the way. Christmas dinner begins at six in the followed by a visit to the Settlement – on the contrary, the chefs at is considerably softer and the taste prominent building you’ll see a sign www.humarhusid.is shopping and hectic preparations Dinner at Hotel Hamar, followed by evening and is followed by a mass at Centre in nearby Borgarnes. A guided The Lobster House claim that it is much more concentrated. It is far behind. Treat yourself to a Icelandic stories read in English by the local church, for those who wish tour through the saga trail is happily outshines the common lobster in one of the bests possible materials a quiet little getaway this season in candlelight. Just like Icelandic children, to attend. provided by Unnur. The rest of the most aspects. “Even though it is chef can work with, making my job the countryside at Hotel Hamar in don’t forget to leave your shoe out and day is free for you to do whatever smaller than the lobster most people that much easier,” says one of the Borgarnes. Just one hour’s drive one of the Icelandic Yuletide Lads may 25th December you wish, followed by an evening are used to, I have found that the Lobster House’s expert chefs, Ottó from Reykjavik, the hotel beckons leave you a gift! — Christmas Day trip to spot the elusive but stunning Magnússon. you with its lights twinkling in Relax over a leisurely breakfast; northern lights. the brisk night air. A panorama of 24th December take a drive around the beautiful But appearances can be deceiving craggy snow capped mountains th “Even though it is — Christmas Eve Borgarfjordur countryside, visiting 27 December and Ottó says that it is not form a dramatic backdrop to uncommon to see a look of surprise A lesson in how to make traditional hot springs, waterfalls and trolls. Leave for Keflavík airport or add a smaller than the set the holiday mood. Let the on the faces of customers when they Icelandic laufabraud (‘leaf bread’), Dinner is at the hotel, followed by an few days in Reykjavik celebrations begin! lobster most people receive a plate of these relatively followed by an easy walk around the optional walk through the local town Choose a two– or four–night small crustaceans, thinking a surrounding area. After lunch at the of Borgarnes, to see all the traditional For more options, trip suggestions, are used to, I have vacation package which gives you mistake has been made. “They are hotel, join Hotel Hamar’s owners, Christmas lights. details and booking, please see the the opportunity to include trips to often sceptical at first, but after the Unnur and Hjörtur, in preparing the hotel’s website: found that the giant Iceland’s famous Blue Lagoon and th first bite, their doubts are removed table for the Christmas feast, or relax 26 December www.icelandairhotels.com/offers/ other attractions. A highlight is the lobster doesn’t instantly,” says Ottó. in one of the hotel’s outdoor hot tubs. — Boxing Day christmas-iceland-hotel-hamar- traditional Icelandic Christmas Eve The most popular dish in The Like everywhere else in the country, Enjoy a hearty buffet breakfast, special-offer come anywhere dinner with Hotel Hamar’s owners Lobster House is the grilled lobster and their family, followed by an near the langoustine with garlic, a dish most Icelanders optional visit to the local church for savour on sunny summer evenings. Christmas Eve mass, with plenty of when it comes to But as the name implies, the chefs time to relax and enjoy the hotel’s taste and texture. at The Lobster House are experts in beautiful surroundings and outdoor coming up with innovative ideas on hot tubs. The langoustine preparing this delicacy. The Lobster House is located in A few package highlights is considerably one of Reykjavík’s oldest houses include: softer and the on Amtmannsstígur 1, which was 23rd December originally built in 1838. If you are — St. Thorlakur’s Mass taste is much more walking north, away from the pond Pick up your car at Keflavík airport. towards the sea on the right side Drive to Hotel Hamar, with a soothing concentrated.” of Lækjargata you should notice

24 25 Eyjafjallajökull - Fimmvörðuháls - Þórsmörk From Dept. of Civil Protection and Emergency Management

The Civil Protection authorities prepare for natural hazards in Iceland. The countryside’s beauty is legendary but it is also with small children, from age 2 a volatile land. onwards and for beginners of all ages. The Fimmvörðuháls eruption So, whether you are a beginner or a attracted people from many nations. more experienced rider, Kálfholt has It started on March 20th 2010 and organised tours to suit every level. lasted three weeks in a mountain pass between two glaciers, Popular tours include : Mýrdalsjökull and Eyjafjallajökull. Introduction to the Icelandic Horse Through this mountain pass is a - a gentle half hour ride for children 8 popular hiking path 22 km. long and years and under. 988 meters high to the Thorsmörk Introduction to the Icelandic Horse nature reserve. Last summer, ash - a one hour tour for beginners of any and tephra covered some of the path age. and made hiking difficult at times. 90 minute, 2.5 hour and 5 hour tours This hiking path is known for in the countryside along the banks sudden and extreme weather of the Þórsá (Thorsa) river and to changes. At times there were Urrithafoss, for intermediate and hundreds of people at the site advanced riders. during the volcanic eruption. This made the rescue, relief and security A Man and His Horse on an Immerse Yourself in a Week- effort during the eruption more Long Stay difficult, since some people did not Kálfholt offers an exciting week- wear proper clothing for the cold long stay at the breeding farm which and high altitude. Thorsmörk is a nature reserve and Tourists also started to revisit the May to September. It is a challenging Icelandic Midsummer’s Day includes full board, accommodation, Lava now covers parts of the old a popular destination for hikers area again. The Road Administration environment and visitors should - Kálfholt Riding Tours a 4-day riding tour, airport pick- hiking path and a new path has and campers, especially during the repaired and reopened the road to enter it prepared with proper up and drop-off and one day of been made in order to protect the summer. The road to Thorsmörk Thorsmörk in early June, but it is clothing, boots, food supplies Riding an Icelandic horse through proprietors of Kálfholt Riding newly formed craters that are still was damaged by floods from the only suitable for 4WD vehicles. and phones. Bear in mind that a the windswept countryside of Tours have known for many years hot from the magma underneath. Eyjafjallajökull glacier that came hike that may start in calm, +20°C South Iceland on a delightfully and now they offer their time and The two craters have been given down the Gígjökull glacier during Enjoying your trip sunshine can face sudden weather sunny summer’s day is the dream talent, expertise and services to names from the old Norse gods. of many a horse enthusiast. travellers in Iceland. the Eyjafjallajökull eruption. The Hiking this area can be a very changes that see the temperature fall The bigger crater was given the Freedom fills your senses in the Soil Conservation Service has made rewarding experience and is dramatically, with rain and a strong, name Magni and the smaller is wide open expanses, lifting the an effort to restore the ash-covered enjoyed by thousands each year cold wind. Whilst such weather Breeding for Excellence Móði, both names of sons of Thor, spirits of both man and horse. land and in late summer, green - especially for those who enjoy can be equally rewarding, it can be Kálfholt is a well established breeding the god of Thunder. The power and majesty of these and lush vegetation emerged. The the rugged beauty and spectacular dangerous for anyone unprepared farm in southern Iceland that has Whilst the hiking trail is open, noble animals combine instantly ash appears to be a good fertilizer. views. It is best visited from late for it. produced some excellent horses the track for 4WD vehicles up with the power and majesty for both breeding and competition. the pass that runs from Skógar to of the Icelandic landscape as Amongst those are Röðull, which Fimmvörðuháls remains closed for it thunders out before you. won the Class B at the National any vehicles. This interplay between man, Icelandic Horse Show in 2008. Should you face horse and nature is something Courses and private lessons taught The Eyjafjallajökull glacier that Eyrún and Steingrímur, volcano erupted on 14th April. a situation where by professional riding instructors Glacial floods followed the eruption are offered for advanced riders sight seeing at the Golden Circle and ran into the Markarfljot and you need help, using Kálfholt’s well-trained horses. (Geysir, Gullfoss and Thingvellir) Svaðbælis rivers, damaging roads the Emergency Located 70 kms from Reykjavik, Participants will receive basic riding and protective floodwalls. Ash between Selfoss and Hella, the farm instruction which is geared to your and tephra spread over vast areas. number is 112 is easily accessible from ring road #1 level of competence, allowing you Eyjafjallajökull has been a restricted and is perfectly situated for day tours to gradually progress in your riding area since the beginning of the We hope you in the area. skills. Evenings can be spent relaxing eruption, except for scientists. in the hot tub, enjoying traditional Whilst there has been no volcanic never need it, Personalised attention is all Icelandic songs, music and games. activity in the Eyjafjallajökull but if you do, we yours volcano since June, scientists are Kálfholt Riding Tours specialise in For further information go to: closely monitoring it and the Civil are here to help. providing riding instruction and http://www.kalfholt.is Protection is still on alert since tours to individuals, couples and or for direct bookings go to: earlier eruptions in the glacier small groups of up to 12 participants. [email protected] (1821-23 and 1612) started again Eyrún and Steingrímur’s patient and Phone: +354 487 5176 after short breaks. personal style is perfect for families

26 27 Feel the Freedom of a Farm Holiday - Is this how Santa Klaus lives?

Imagine walking outside from a cosy farmhouse, looking up to see the largest glacier in Europe seemingly within a stone’s throw from where you’re standing, stretching out its fingers towards you. Or walking over the crisp snow to view a herd of reindeer. Have you ever wondered which animals and birds share this island with you? Would you like to be able to tell your friends about a very unusual experience, of which few can boast?

Hólmur farm guesthouse, situated just 33 km. from Höfn, is much more than a guesthouse. Here you can stay during winter as well as summer and drink in the stillness, the fresh air, the awesome views - not only around the house but by A Ride Off the Beaten Track taking trips to the nearby beach or Jökulsárlón, the Ice Lagoon or to the - Kerhestar’s horses will take you to a hidden world nearby glaciers.

In winter, all the animals are ‘home’ Less than an hour from Reykjavik, overlooking the famous Þingvellir All necessary clothing and safety horses but riding them, being led from their summer wanderings. in history to the time the British & a wilderness, there are regular you could find yourself preparing and Þingvallavatn (Thingvallavatn). equipment is provided for everyone, and supervised by an adult for their Guests who stay overnight in winter for a trip unlike anything you US forces were stationed here in flights and coach connections You can stay in the mountain cabin no matter how long their ride will safety. have free access to the zoo and they The reindeer tour are likely to have experienced the Second World War. After that, from Reykjavík to nearby Höfn í used by the riders in autumn when be. On the longer trips, food is also can help care for the animals under before. Just 15 km. from Selfoss, it’s time to taste the Icelandic shark Hornafirði, where a car from Hólmur they go to collect their sheep off the provided. Sleeping bags can also be What else would you like the guidance of Magnús and Guðrún is unique to the Kerhestar has a stable of 100 meat and dried fish, washed down can pick you up. Being fairly close to mountain plateaux for the winter. provided for those who don’t bring to see? - Maggi and Gunna, who are both horses. They can provide you with brennivin or Egils malt. the Ring road, it is also easy to reach winter here and (This has been recently renovated their own. For those who have enjoyed a ride agriculturalists. with a thrilling and memorable it by car. and provides a place for a comfortable and want to do more, Kerhestar also adventure to tell your friends Above all, this is a chance to visitors are driven night’s rest.) An ideal choice for offers trips in coaches or minibuses, The reindeer tour is unique to the about! experience the pristine beauty, calm Their website is packed with children depending on the size of the group, winter here and visitors are driven and stillness of the countryside, information: up close to where Other rides or trips into the The Icelandic horse is not as large as to visit the surrounding tourist up close to where the herd is grazing. Most tourists to Iceland will visit the unwind from the stress of modern www.eldhorn.is/mg/gisting You can the herd is grazing. surrounding countryside can easily its European or American relatives attractions - such as Geysir, Gulfoss Powerful binoculars are provided spectacular sights like Geysir, Gulfoss life in a family-run farm guesthouse, call +354 478 2063 or 1037 or +354 be arranged. Some rides, in particular but it has become renowned for or Þingvellir (Thingvellir) or a one- and you can see them in their natural or Þingvellir (Thingvellir) - sights styled in the manner of the last 861 5959 the longer (3 – 4 day) trips, require its comfortable ride and good day tour up on the Langjökull glacier, habitat and learn about their ways. that will stay in your memory. What century. The email address is: some riding experience. demeanour. Whether you ride for if you want a rest from riding. The trip to the coast takes you back Kerhestar offers is an opportunity to Despite being on the edge of [email protected] an hour or a day, these horses make see these but, uniquely, also take a ride it a time you will treasure! You can find out more by contacting into a world most tourists will never Kerhestar: see and take home an experience The calm nature of the Icelandic Helga: +354 482 3666; that you will never forget! horse makes it an ideal choice for Sverrir: +354 662 4422 Email: [email protected] or Where will you ride today? children to start learning to ride. At Kerhestar’s horse farm, children visit their website: At Kerhestar, you can ride for an can enjoy not only being around the http://www.kerhestar.is/ hour or more - 2 hours, a day or go on longer trips of several days. A favourite day ride is down to the nearby Álftavatn, riding the horses through the waters of the lake, surrounded on all sides by the beautiful countryside. A longer, 3-4 day ride for the adventurous can take you up into the mountainous area of Lyngdalsheiði, Photos: Björn A Einarsson

28 29 Another annual celebration takes place over the first weekend in August every year, attracting thousands of mainland visitors. This is “shopkeepers weekend” when almost everything in Iceland shuts down for this 3−4 day extravaganza.

work! A healthy hike to the slopes the whole island for 5 months, you 3−4 day extravaganza. Music, of the Eldfjall volcano is a good probably didn’t know that the end entertainment, sing−a−longs place to start, followed by a bus of the eruption is commemorated (for several thousand people) tour around the island to see where, every year on the first weekend in and firework displays mark the amongst other things, the Algerian July. This is a weekend of music and occasion which is especially festive pirates came ashore in 1627 and song when establishments open in the Westman Islands. Locals set kidnapped half the population of their doors wide and life is féted to up large white tents and actually the island. Boat tours circle the the full. move some of their furniture into You haven’t seen Iceland till island, providing opportunities for them so they can camp out in puffin viewing and a visit to the Annual “Shopkeepers comfort for the duration of the singing sea cave before your tour Weekend” festival. Because of the popularity of the island is complete. Another annual celebration takes of this event, hotels and every place over the first weekend in other sort of accommodation are you’ve seen the Westman Islands Celebrating Life, Westman August every year, attracting booked months in advance. Island Style thousands of mainland visitors. - Now closer than ever before Although much has been written This is “shopkeepers weekend” For further information go to : about the 1973 volcanic eruption when almost everything in www.visitwestmanislands.com/ which forced the evacuation of Iceland shuts down for this english For many years, there were only been to take a 6-hour round trip Then there is the option of an Eagle year round, weather permitting. three ways to get to the Westman car ferry from Thorlakshöfn, on Air flight from Reykjavik or taking The trip takes around 30 minutes Islands. The most common has the south coast of South Iceland. a 6-seater, single-engine plane from Landeyjahöfn in good from the tiny Bakki airport near weather, considerably reducing the Hvolsvöllur, options which, for overall travel time and can carry up those travelling by car, often force to 500 passengers and 60 vehicles. them to cross the Westman Islands off their wish-list of places to see in An island in bloom Iceland. Because of all the increased traffic to and from the island, several The shorter, cheaper new shops, restaurants, cafes and option hotels have blossomed in the In July 2010, a new harbour opened town of Vestmannaeyjar, making at Landeyjahöfn, near Hvolsvölllur this destination more desirable - something which a few years ago than ever. It’s a common mistake seemed to be an impossible dream for tourists to visit the island for but has now made possible due to the day and then realise that they recent advances in technology. The should have booked a room to ferry Hérolfur, which is operated spend the night. Fitting all there is by Eimskip, sails several times a day to do and see into a day just doesn’t

30 31 Visit the Setting for Iceland’s Greatest Saga −The Saga Centre in Hvolsvöllur offers a unique chance to stand in the footprints of Iceland’s greatest heroes The most famous and acclaimed of all of the Icelandic Sagas is, without a doubt, Brennu Njáls Saga, or Njála as most Icelanders call it. It is an epic prose written in the thirteenth century by an unknown author which tells the story of blood-feud lasting fifty years.

Njála is a highly complex work, telling the lives of memorable characters such as the powerful, yet peaceful, warrior Gunnar Hámundarson from Hlíðarendi and his friend and title character, Njáll from Bergþórshvoll, who were continually sucked into power struggles and battles by both their enemies and their own families.

The Saga Centre in Hvolsvöllur offers you a chance to actually visit the a prophecy saying Gunnar would meet blooming meadow.” After viewing was descended upon by an army of a sites described in the story and learn his demise if he were to slay another the meadow of Hlíðarendi Gunnar hundred men who burned the home more about its characters through the member of Þorgeir’s family. So it was no decided to stay in Iceland and thus to the ground with Njáll and eleven informative Njála exhibition. There, coincidence that among the attackers live the remainder of his days as an others in it. This event spawned the Dogsledding Iceland the story and principal characters was Þorgeir‘s son, whom Gunnar, of outlaw. That same influential meadow name of the story, “The Story of the are explained in great detail, richly course, killed. is naturally still there today and you Burning of Njáll”. - In the golden silence of the highlands illustrated with pictures and can decide for yourself if it is beautiful Dogsledding Iceland is the only company in Iceland to offer this unique and fun way to sight-see, combining adventure and fun. descriptions of their conflicts at fateful Fair is the blooming meadow enough to spend your life as an outlaw Insight Into the World of moments in the story. A famous passage in the book is when for it. Bergþórshvoll was home to Njáll, Vikings Gaining in popularity in recent sled. On these tours, passengers Njála describes Icelandic society as it Gunnar was being forced to exile from as well as the setting for his death. The Njála exhibition also offers a unique years with young people and are given the opportunity to have The Greenland Dog was approximately 1,000 years ago; it Iceland and took his last look over After a series of misfortunes, mostly insight into the pre-Christian world of families alike, Dogsledding a break in the middle of the tour offers a magnificent characterization his homestead and spoke: “Fair is the caused by his sons, Bergþórshvoll Vikings, including their noteworthy Iceland offers sled tours and there will be plenty of time for Used in Greenland among the of the power struggles, torrid passions, sailing techniques and miniature in the highlands and “dog photography ‒ and dog petting! On Inuit people for thousands strife, and skulduggery in a heathen models of the Althing, or parliament. trolley” tours. Each tour lasts the way back you might even get to of years, the Greenland dog society that was about to become Another part of the exhibition explains approximately 45 to 60 minutes drive the dogs yourself! or ‘Greenland Husky’ as they Christianised. the unique Icelandic tradition of and you will experience some are sometimes called, are safeguarding its storytelling wealth by of the most beautiful scenery Travel with film stars! extremely strong working Unforgettable Experience writing it down on calf skin. in Iceland. Your tour will take The dogs have starred in television dogs who are happiest when The immediate surroundings of the Then, if you really want to immerse you up over the magnificent commercials, movies and just they have a job to do. They Saga Centre are the actual historical yourself into the life of a Viking, you can Langjökull Glacier in West recently, in a German historical are very much pack dogs, built setting of Njála itself. The key sites attend events in the Saga Hall, which is Iceland, where silence reigns documentary about the race to pull heavy loads in harsh from the story are labeled with the a reproduction of a typical Viking Age and the only sounds are the hiss between Roald Amundsen and winter weather conditions. Saga Centre logo and, in many places, chieftain’s hall, complete with benches of the sled gliding across the Robert Scott to reach the South Originally starting with 16 there are information signs detailing clad in horsehide. snow and the occasional words Pole in 1911. International dogs, the Dogsledding Iceland how the site is related to the events of encouragement from the companies like Hyundai, Landrover, pack has now grown to 26 and characters in Njála. All the sites History of Trade driver to the dogs. Amundsen Vodka and Morrison’s dogs, with another 5 puppies are easily accessible to visitors. The The Saga Centre also hosts an awaiting training in the Spring Supermarket chain in Britain have Saga Centre can be of assistance in exhibition of Icelandic co-operative of 2011. Dog Trolley - Sledding all produced successful television hiring expert tour guides for large and society, where guests can learn about without a sled! small groups alike, for an experience the history of trade, commerce and commercials and adverts using www.youtube.com/ In the autumn, when there isn’t which will not easily be forgotten. the co-operative movement. Take a dogs from Dogsledding Iceland. atch?v=8nnJrfj1-tk enough snow in the highlands and Dogsledding, the Imagine standing on top of the same glance back in time and explore the The dogs have even been cast in www.youtube.com/ the glaciers are not safe for sledding, rock as the seemingly invincible Gunnar life and work of past generations. The movies such as Tomb Raider (1997) watch?v=T2DbXZIO2gY the company offers another kind ultimate in green Hámundarson did when he fought off exhibition is conceived as a journey with Angelina Jolie. www.youtube.com/ of sledding experience. This is the an ambush at the river Rangá. Gunnar through time and enables visitors to Clips of some of these commercials watch?v=F2Cm_4573fs technology “dog trolley” ‒ a specially built are all available for viewing on You had previously killed Þorgeir Otkelsson walk through the past 100 years of trolley that the dogs pull like a Tube here:: and a nemesis of Gunnar had heard of trade in Southern Iceland.

32 33 Iceland Excursions Let your dreams come true this year with Iceland Excursions-Gray Line Iceland

If one of your dreams in life is to see Iceland and the Northern Lights, then make this your year to do it! The 2010/2011 winter season has been one of the best in recent years for experiencing the Northern Lights and Iceland Excursion’s Northern Lights Mystery Tour is the oldest running tour of its kind in Iceland. Experienced guides know where the best viewing spots are located - but if perchance you miss them, a second chance is yours, free of charge. Tours run from 15th September to 15th April.

On a clear day you can see for miles Iceland Excursion’s South Coast tour is packed with some of Iceland´s most dazzling sights. Leaving Reykjavik, the tour proceeds over the Hellisheidi Plateau where, on a clear day, you can see over 100 km. Ribbons of light undulate across the sky, sometimes with seeming rhyme and reason and sometimes doing the Glacier Jeeps to Eyafjallajökull with its fresh new most unexpected things! snowcap and the mountainous Westman Islands just off the coast. into full and glorious view and you a glimpse of South Iceland’s past The route passes Hveragerdi, the will visit some of the most famous with its turf houses and indoor town known for its geothermally waterfalls in Iceland ‒ Seljalandsfoss exhibits of life in 19th century Unforgettable Glacier Jeeps heated greenhouses, and then and Skogarfoss, which cascade down Iceland. Then its on to the beautiful it’s on to Hvolsvöllur for a short from the glacier. seaside town of Vik, known for With a stellar safety record and stop. For the next 80 km., between its black volcanic sand beaches over 20 year’s experience on the Glacier Jeeps most Hvolsvöllur and Vik, the dramatic Skogar and Vik and the Reynisdrangar Sea Stacks largest glacier in Europe, Glacier popular tour, the coastline begins to emerge: the At Skogar you will visit the Skogar that rise curiously from the sea. Jeeps operates from South East notorious Eyfjallajökull comes Historical Museum where you get Legend has it that three trolls were Iceland and offers spectacular Jeep Tour takes you attempting to drag a three-masted tours to Vatnajökull Glacier. The ship to shore when daylight struck freshness and purity of the glacial to Jökulsel with the them and turned them to stone. air will energise and mesmerise The return journey stops at two you, leaving you with a special option of going other colourful south coast seaside feeling that you will not soon further over the towns, Stokkseyri and Eyrarbakki, forget. the latter having been a major glacier by Ski-doo. port for trade in the 18th and 19th A Mountaintop Restaurant centuries and where many of the Did you know? Jöklasel Restaurant, at an altitude of oldest houses in Iceland still stand Iceland Excursions-Gray 840 m., is the highest restaurant in today. Line Iceland is a family-run Iceland and the base of Glacier Jeep also offers hiking tours to many other company, founded in the activities. It offers a soup and salad destinations on the glacier and must The South Coast tour is available early 1980s by two boyhood buffet lunch as well as a variety of be booked one day in advance. in English, French, German and friends from a small village in cakes and coffee, comfortably seating Scandinavian languages. For Glacier Jeep tours depart daily from the West Fjords. It is known for 80 to 90 people. A seafood buffet for views of both the glacier and the the glacier by Ski-doo. Along the further information and booking the junction with road no. F985 (the its exceptionally friendly and groups and freshly caught arctic char Atlantic Ocean. way, there is a magnificent view of go to: road to Jöklasel) at 9:30 and 14:00, knowledgeable staff, constant and salmon are available by special deep valleys like Kálfafellsdalur, tall www.grayline.is/tour/Day_Tours_ but other timetables can be arranged innovation and adding new arrangement. Incentive groups can Glacier Jeeps most popular tour, the mountains such as Þverártindsegg and_Sightseeing/AH34_South_ to suit. For further info visit : tours to its itinerary enjoy a buffet lunch right on the Jeep Tour takes you to Jökulsel with and Öræfajökull, and of course the Coast_(AND)_Waterfalls/Iceland.is www.glacierjeeps.is Seljalandsfoss glacier while enjoying breathtaking the option of going further over great Vatnajökull itself. The company

34 35 The 3-day midsummer trek over the 1,100 m. high A 24 km. hike from Skógar The tour culminates at Básar in equipped lodge for up to 80 guests, to Thórsmörk Thórsmörk with music and singing several more huts and a popular Fimmvörduháls Útivíst offers guided excursions around a bonfire after an enjoyable camp ground. From Básar, Útivíst to Thórsmörk every weekend in summer evening meal. This hike also organises a 6-7 hour round-trip hiking trail starts summer, from late June to late is not for beginners! Being in hike up to the Fimmvörduháls crater out at Skógar, August. One of the more popular shape and possessing some hiking where you can get a good look at weekend tours takes place every experience is required. how this most recent volcano has taking you past the year around Jónsmessa or St. forever changed and re-shaped the John’s Eve, (June 24th). The 3-day The heart of Útivíst beats landscape. Útivist Fimmvörduháls midsummer trek over the 1,100 m. at Básar high Fimmvörduháls hiking trail Some of the most enchanting Útivíst welcomes volunteers to eruption site where starts out at Skógar, taking you past scenery in Thórsmörk is found at assist in the marking of trails, you will witness the Fimmvörduháls eruption site Básar, and it is here that Útivíst building mountain huts and in where you will witness first-hand volunteers built their first hut. nature conservation. For more The Outdoor Touring Association of Iceland fresh lava, new craters, sulphur information please go to: first-hand fresh Over the years improvements have There’s something for is called Thórsmörk, (Thor’s Located just 50 km. from the town but is reachable only by specially- deposits and the earth still warm. been made and now there is a well- www.utivist.is everyone! Woods) and is one of the most of Hvolsvöllur, the area is popular equipped 4x4’s or by tour buses lava, new craters, The Útivíst Touring Association beautiful areas of South Iceland. with Icelanders and tourists alike with experienced drivers. sulphur deposits began life in 1975 as a hiking club at a time when interest in and the earth still the outdoors was just beginning warm. to gather momentum in Iceland. Membership in the club rose from a few hundred in its first decade to around 1,400 at present and is still growing, drawing members from all over the world. But you don’t have to become a member to join in on the many varied hiking tours, bicycle tours and even the new self- drive jeep tours that Útivíst now offers around Iceland.

Breaking New Ground While the heady days of South Iceland´s recent volcanic activity may be behind us, the memory of those tumultuous weeks is as much etched in our minds as it is in the landscape itself. The area around Eyafjallajökull and Fimmvörduháls

36 37 Hestheimar Remote Beauty Near Reykjavik The Icelandic landscape can be challenging for creatures who are not fleet-footed, but a farm holiday at a charming family-owned horse farm called Hestheimar offers guests the chance to experience Iceland on the backs of horses bred to lead riders through the countryside. Hestheimar lies in the south of Iceland close to the Hekla Photos: Ingolfur Juliusson volcano and has a view of three nearby glaciers. Located between the towns Selfoss and Hella, less than 100 kilometers from Reykjavik, the accommodation is cozy, featuring double rooms with private bathrooms and an outdoor hot tub. Guests are treated to home-cooked meals Hvolsvöllur as well as home-baked breads — From obscurity to flame virtually overnight and pastries, with a traditionally Icelandic flavour. Hospitality is a Unless you have been living out should any changes take place campgrounds, youth hostels, guest Skaftárhreppur (in which large area top priority for the farm, which under a rock for most of 2010, at Eyafjallajökull and has a well- houses and hotels ranging from 1 to of the Vatnajökull National Park and has received a customer service you are sure to have heard of a developed plan of action in the event 4 stars. Ferry trips to the Westman Vatnajökull Glacier are located). The award for the past two years certain volcano with a ridiculously of any emergency arising. (see article Islands are now possible from the region has a unique geodiversity with running and remains a popular snowy, Hestheimar provides guests such as the Northern Lights, away all the comforts of home. difficult-to-pronounce name that from the Dept. of Civil Protection) new harbour, Landeyahöfn, that geological features found nowhere destination for visitors all the with a superb array of services from the bright lights of Reykjavik. wrought havoc with air travel opened in July, 2010 and is just 20 else on Earth. Therefore, the goal is to year. ranging from snowmobiling and Winter’s numerous pleasures lend For more information about around most of Europe and even -An exciting array of minutes from Hvolsvöllur. become full fledged members of the quad bike tours to guided hikes and Iceland a different kind of charm not Hestheimar visit www.hestheimar.is. affected many flights to the possibilities just on our European Geoparks Network and the Year-round Hestheimar horse tours, all which are arranged to seen in summer, inviting visitors to States. Indeed, Icelanders got doorstep The Geo-Vision of the UNESCO Global Geoparks Network Delights suit the needs of its guests. experience adventure while keeping a good chuckle listening to us Hvolsvöllur is an excellent location Future in 2011 or 2012. foreigners trying to pronounce As winter draws on, Iceland becomes There are some new exciting Adventure with Comfort Eyafjallajökull and stumbling all from which to base to explore South less crowded and provides a haven Iceland. Its central location makes developments on the horizon for South For more information about the area for visitors looking for an escape. Close at Hand over their language! please go to: it ideal for day trips in the region Central Iceland, in particular the huge Winter visitors are able to enjoy The farm has ample room for larger and then back for a good night’s area covered by the municipalities www.rangarthingeystra.is lower prices on a variety of activities We would love to send someone up groups, even featuring a horse sleep in one of the area’s many of Rangarthing-eystra (Hvolsvöllur www.europeangeoparks.org/isite/ and it provides guests with the best to the summit or a few ‘somebodies’, show for groups of 20 or more. types of accommodation. There are area), Myrdalshreppur (Vik area) and home/1,1,0.asp offers of the year. With mild winter along with several geologists and Customised riding lessons give temperatures peaking at 7 degrees reporters, with camera crew trailing visitors an opportunity to brush Celsius, Iceland can provide either a behind for an in-depth interview with up their riding skills with expert much-needed break from the brutal the now famous volcano. Perched on trainers. Weekend riding courses cold of other Northern climates or the edge of the crater, they are there for groups and longer summer tours winter snows can blanket the land to ask the question that is on mind are offered. Day tours allow guests with quiet beauty. Whether mild or of many: “So, what are your plans for to witness Iceland’s winter sights, 2011 and beyond? Will we be seeing more of you in the near future, or will you be going back into hibernation for a few more hundred years?” With no such eventuality in sight any time in the near future we have to look to scientists and the Civil Protection Dept. to give us their best estimates.

The Civil Protection Dept. has got you covered.... The region around the volcano, including the Fimmvörduháls hiking trail and the Thórsmörk Mountain Reserve, is now open to visitors. That said, the Dept. of Civil Protection of Iceland keeps a watchful eye 38 39 instruction and guidance in this extreme sport. In February 2011 they will be introducing Iceland as one of the best locations on earth for snowkiting enthusiasts. An experience you won’t want to miss.

Inspirational Iceland: New Lava, New Land You’ve seen the photos, the TV reports and heard all the rumours. Now you can discover for yourself how this eruption has changed the face of the land in a dramatic statement that can only be appreciated first hand. The SIA Super Jeep Tour, which operates out of Hvolsvöllur to the Eyjafjallajökull area, can pick you up from Hótel Rangá, Hótel Hvolsvöllur or from Hótel Fljótshlíð for a very inspirational look at Iceland´s most recent geological happening.

Feel it! Get inspired! Go for it! Let South Iceland Adventure take you to the edge!

For information and bookings go to: www.icelandadventure.is or write to : [email protected] or call +354 770 2030

Feeling Adventurous? - South Iceland Adventure, edgy and just a little bit daring Feel it! Get

Many people are surprised when limit of - but not beyond - your possess an understanding of the Jossarand, considered to be one inspired! Go they arrive in Iceland to discover personal comfort zone. challenges that are to be found, of the most daring snow kiters just how much there is to do and are adept at finding the hidden in the world today, has teamed for it! Let beyond the usual touring! There The South Iceland gems that can really make your up with SIA exclusively to offer are glacier hikes, volcano tours, Adventure Advantage holiday special. South Iceland geo-tours, cave exploring, hot- SIA guides have lived most of SIA’s winter activities spring bathing, ice climbing, their lives in the area around No Guts, no Glory include: Super Jeep tours, Adventure Super Jeep ice safaris, diving Eyjafjallajökull. With years of - Snowkiting in the diving and snorkeling and the list goes on and on. mountaineering experience Highlands adventures, Northern Light take you South Iceland Adventure is for behind them, they combine their SIA offers the challenge of a lifetime tours, highland hiking, ice those who want just a tad more knowledge, talent and passion climbing, ice walking, caving, to the edge! excitement and edge to their - especially geared for those who for the Icelandic Highlands with snowmobiling, and, of course, Icelandic vacation in a way that want to test their limits to the max. safety and skill. Like their Viking snow kiting. challenges you to go right to the Enter (drumroll please): Snowkiting forefathers before them, they in the Icelandic Highlands! Jerome 40 41 to see for yourself Eyafjallajökull’s crevasses under the watchful eye of enormous impact on the area. ‘Super experienced mountain guides. This Jeeps’ are specially modified jeeps tour is offered daily, year-round. that are able to handle rocky terrain and easily ford the ever-changing Gullfoss-Geysir Direct Markafljót glacial river. This tour is If you want to maximise your sight- available year-round. seeing into a short space of time, the Golden Circle Tour is no doubt Northern Lights Tour one of the best of the best. The big Your chances of seeing the Northern 3 sights are: Lights this year are, in a word, excellent! Just one more reason to • Gullfoss - one of the most beautiful visit Iceland in winter! Let Reykjavik waterfalls in Europe, guaranteed to Excursions show you the sights inspire you! and the lights, but don’t forget your • Geysir Geothermal Area - The camera and tripod. The tour runs famous Geysir has gone quiet these Relax at the Blue Lagoon catch your flight home or can get you daily from 15th Sept. to 15th April. days but its ‘little’ brother Strokkur Tour back to Reykjavik, either way. Take a Walk on the Ice Side Easily is the more active of the two geysirs Finish off your trip to Iceland with one of the most popular tours on now, erupting regularly every 10 a dip in the Blue Lagoon. After all, a Prefer to tour Iceland on your own? offer, ‘Take A Walk on the Ice Side’ minutes or so. trip to Iceland without going to the Discover Reykjavik Excursion’s takes place on the Solheimajökull • Thingvellir - besides it’s historical Blue Lagoon would be like going ‘Iceland on Your Own’ and be the glacial tongue at Myrdalsjökull, significance, this is where you can to Paris and not seeing the Eiffel master of your own vacation. Go to: Reykjavik Excursions South Iceland. Just a 2.5 hour drive straddle the two mid-Atlantic Tower! A great way to end your www.re.is/IcelandOnYourOwn/ from Reykjavik, you will be taught tectonic plates simultaneously. journey, bathing in the relaxing for further information. the basics in using ice equipment Thingvellir has been recognised milky waters of this exquisite Enjoy your holiday in Iceland and let Enjoying Iceland in comfort and security and walking on crampons. A safe by UNESCO as a cultural site example of Iceland’s unique use Reykjavik Excursions take you there! and easy walk on the glacier, this connected to Viking culture and is of geothermal energy. Afterwards, For tours and bookings go to: tour gives you a chance to explore the only place in the world bearing Reykjavik Excursions can either drop Reykjavik Excursions is one of tops. There’s a stop at Skogar with its beyond the village is priceless. actually getting there! It’s a rocky www.re.is/ the ridges, ice sculptures and this distinction. you at Keflavik Airport, in time to the oldest touring companies broad curtain waterfall and history road and one that is interlaced with in Iceland. Founded in 1968, waiting for you to discover at Skogar Thorsmörk (Þórsmörk) glacial rivers and rivulets and not it offers professionally guided Museum. The approach to the village Visiting Thorsmörk is high on a necessarily something you would tours around Iceland, in English, of Vik with steep slopes rising on one many traveller’s list of things to do want to try to drive yourself. So what German, French and the side and the view down to the ocean in Iceland. But the tricky part is to do? Problem solved! Reykjavik Scandinavian languages. Excursion’s specially-equipped buses and their experienced drivers will Here are just a few highlights of what put you at ease, so you can relax and Reykjavik Excursions offer: enjoy the scenery in comfort and security. This tour runs from 15th South Shore Adventure June to 11th Sept. Tour In this 10-hour day tour of the south Super Jeep Tour – coast, you will take in some of the Aftermath of a Volcanic most impressive scenery in Iceland. Eruption Stopping at Seljalandsfoss, you will Witness with your own eyes how get a chance to walk behind this 60 the recent eruption of Eyafjallajökull metre “bridal veil” waterfall - beautiful changed the landscape for miles in any season! The dramatic cliffs around. You will travel to Gigjökull almost touch the shore, and glimpses glacial lagoon, going deeper into of Myrdalsjökull Glacier peek out Thorsmörk where tour buses cannot from above the craggy mountain Thorsmörk (Þórsmörk) Blue Lagoon manoeuvre, giving you a chance

42 43 The Gift of Silence With only 0.065 inhabitants per square km Skaftárhreppur district is the perfect place to relax and unwind, you’ll practically have the whole the region enjoys mild winters “Skaftárhreppur place to yourself! and often rather warm and sunny Fresh mountain air, pure summers comprising one of the district is the glacial water, safe and secure, most geologically young and exciting perfect place to with more sheep than people, volcanic areas on Earth! you are truly “at ease with the relax and unwind. elements.” Geo-Tourism at its best: Stay and explore! For more information go to: You have practically ·Kirkjugólf or ‘Church Floor’ is an www.klaustur.is the whole place 80m2 protected natural monument, Systrastapi. Photo: Þórir N. Kjartansson just east of Klaustur, made of to yourself! Fresh An ecclesiastical history columnar basalt formations that With a population of only 150, curiously resemble laid hexagonal mountain air, fresh Kirkubæjarklaustur is a peaceful shaped tiles, and hence the name. glacial water and village on the south central coast of · Systrastapi - a steep rocky hill Iceland. Affectionately referred to as where legend has it that a couple of with more sheep “Klaustur” for short, the town is the nuns got into trouble about 1,000 service area for the whole district years ago... than people, you of Skaftárhreppur and is easily · Systrafoss - ‘Sisters Falls.’ Beautiful accessible from ring road #1. In 1186, twin waterfalls surrounded by will truly be ‘at ease a Benedictine convent was founded towering 65 year-old pines. Located with the elements.’ at Kirkjubær which was active until right in the town of Klaustur. The it disbanded during the Reformation picnic area is frequented by young in 1550. Many local place names and old alike in this romantic and and folk tales reflect the presence scenic part of Klaustur. of the nuns and the ecclesiastical · Eldgjá or ‘fire canyon’ - This is a history down the centuries. Because spectacular volcanic canyon 270m of it’s relatively ‘southern’ location, deep, 600m wide and over 70 kms long - accessible in summer and Feeling free on the black sand beach. autumn only. · Fjaðrárgljúfur - a dramatic canyon with unusual and extravagant rock formations and beautiful views - accessible all year round. · Geo Hikes - a brand new 20 km marked hiking trail circles Klaustur with informative signs giving insight as to how the unique geology in the area is constantly evolving - starts in Spring 2011.

This is life in Klaustur, Fjaðrárgljúfur. Photos: Ingibjörg Skaftárhreppur District. Eiríksdóttir Kirkjubæjarklaustur, Skaftárhreppur District Home to one of the youngest and greatest shows on Earth Slow down: you’ll see more! looking around, immediately dismiss of history waiting to be discovered give way to the pounding surf of the While on the road travelling east, you it as not worth bothering with and in these parts. There are pearls and Atlantic Ocean to the south while might well stop at Kirkjubæjarklaustur drive onwards. You would be very gems of beautiful waterfalls to behold. the Vatnajökull Glacier dominates A waterfall in Rauðá, near Systrastapi. Laufskálavarða on the Myrdalssandur. to fill your car with petrol, and mistaken! There are a thousand years Walk along black sand beaches that the eastern horizon. 44 45 was quite minor in February, 2000 Hekla is about 4,890 ft. (1,491 m.) reassuring update on its condition, but there were fears that it might high and sits on a mountain ridge the Weather Bureau provides the erupt again in early 2010 following some 25 miles (40 km.) long. The latest information on their website: reports that there were spots near volcanic fissure which splits the http://en.vedur.is/earthquakes-and- the summit not covered with snow. ridge is almost 3.5 miles (5.5 km.) volcanism/earthquakes/ long. During the 1693 eruption, 14 Fire, Smoke, Death and craters along its length were active A Fiery Future Destruction simultaneously and in 1766, 18 The rise in volcanic and earthquake Hekla’s fearsome reputation is not craters were spewing smoke, ash activity worldwide over the past few Katla is a volcano. The last major eruption occurred in 1918 without reason. In 1300, for example, and tephra. Some eruptions have years would seem to indicate that it a major eruption split the mountain. been so violent that the ash has risen won’t be long before we see Hekla The noise was heard all the way to the stratosphere and reached as justifying its formidable reputation in the north parts of the country far as Russia. with another eruption. Whether it where the ashes and smoke plume will be massive or just a plume of created such darkness that no-one At one time, Hekla’s slopes were smoke is one of its hidden secrets! would risk putting out to sea to go green and verdant with forests. Later fishing. Earthquakes followed, farms eruptions destroyed that with lava If past experience is anything to go collapsed and many people died in and tephra, some rocks being so by, an eruption of Hekla will be quite large that they have killed people as Hekla’s eruptions in 1913. Pictures the ensuing famine. This was not an a sight to behold - from a distance! from old postcard isolated occurrence, as the volcano far away as 28 kms! The earth will be split by those fires We live in exciting times and it’s has caused much damage, famines from the pits of hell along its length, more than likely that Hekla will be and loss of life down through the Like all volcanos in Iceland, Hekla smoke and steam will billow up the centre of attention once again years. Bishops and priests across is constantly monitored for any towards the stratosphere, blazing in the near future. How long it will Europe branded it the ‘Gateway to activity. An eruption is expected at lava will flow down the mountain erupt is open to question - but it has Hell’ during the Dark Ages. Perhaps any time but, at the time of writing like a massive torch-carrying army, been know to continue for several that was not such an inappropriate (Dec. 2010), there are no signs of accompanied by thunder, lightning years! description, even if not entirely volcanic activity. For a (hopefully) and earth tremors or larger quakes. accurate! Some went so far as to say it was the home of Satan himself and that witches gathered there to meet him. The unsaved dead were said to be carried by birds to its craters. Such was the superstition and fear created by such stories that no-one dared climb Hekla’s slopes for centuries.

Breaking the Taboo Finally, in 1750, two naturalists, Eggert Ólafsson and Bjarni Pálsson broke the taboo by climbing the mountain during a dormant period. Besides the gaping craters, no witches were to be found. Satan might have been entertaining some Hekla photo: Ragnar Th. Sigurdsson kilometres below, but if he was, they didn’t receive an invitation!

A Hike Around ‘Hell’ Today, it is a popular climb and hike. Being the highest point for many miles around, the views are worth the The Gateway to Hell effort and the photo opportunities are many. In spring, when still covered with snow, climbing Hekla - Hekla’s fearsome reputation through the Ages and skiing around the craters is a popular pastime. However, due to Hekla is one of the best known Situated in the south of the peak glistening in the sunlight Whilst other volcanos on this fiery Iceland’s temperamental weather volcanoes in Iceland and has a country, it rises up majestically as the traveller descends from island have captured the headlines in that can change in a matter of history going back to the Middle from the plains and is visible the Hellisheidi plateau that recent months, Hekla is never quiet minutes, it is wise to carry good The lavafield around Hekla is called Ages. It has erupted almost 30 for many miles. Travelling from separates the capital from the for long. It has erupted more often clothing when hiking there - and a times that are known, the first Reykjavik, it is possible to see it rest of the south. Dómadalshraun - Judgement Day! than any other volcano on in Iceland check on earthquake activity would one recorded being in 1104. on a clear day, it’s snow-capped since its settlement. The last eruption not be unwise! photo: Ragnar Th. Sigurdsson 46 47 By the sea and a delicious lobster At the Restaurant Fjöruborðið in Stokkseyri spör ehf. < Only 45 minutes drive from Reykjavík

Eyrarbraut 3, 825 Stokkseyri, Iceland · Tel. +354 483 1550 · Fax. +354 483 1545 · [email protected] · www.fjorubordid.is