56 The Herald Magazine Saturday November 24, 2018 etc TRAVEL North East 250 No need to hurry through Moray, or Strathspey, or Royal Deeside...

FIONA RUSSELL

RIVING along the Old Military Road north from the small village of Spittal of Glenshee towards Tomintoul, the highest D settlement in the Highlands, I feel like an ant in a country of giants as I survey the landscape of rounded mountains and vast glens. My progress through the Cairngorm National Park to the highest point on this road, now mapped as the modern A93, also slows to a snail’s pace. The gradient approaches almost 20 per cent in places, forcing me to use first gear on occasion, as it rises to 2,119ft (646m) at Glenshee Snowsports Centre. My eyes flick between the campervan’s speedometer – “Only 25mph!” – and the spectacular scenery. But it feels good to be able to take my time. I have just embarked on a four-day journey around a new tourist trail, the North East 250 (NE250), and there is no pressure to be anywhere soon. So, at regular intervals, I pull into laybys, get out of the van and stand amid the high-rise terrain, with peaks in almost every direction. I reach the ski resort, which is busy with determined late-season enthusiasts. Skiing in winter – and hiking in summer – and are only two activities on a long list of attractions on the NE250. Along the 250-mile circular route through Speyside, Moray, and Royal Deeside, as well as the Cairngorms, I discover myriad places to see and things to do. Beaches, golf courses, nature reserves, mountain biking and walking trails, distilleries, castles, churches, museums and heritage centres all Estate. The estate and the wider Moray The striking sea arch Already I have seen so many more gems beckon me to stop, visit and enjoy. Speyside region are synonymous with Bow Fiddle Rock at than I ever knew existed and my journey is Perhaps you’ve not heard of the NE250, whisky making and another tourist route, Portknockie on the not even a third completed. yet I expect you already know of another the Malt Whisky Trail, meets the NE250 to Moray Firth I am fortunate with the spring weather road route, the North Coast 500 around offer many options for visiting distilleries although many locals are keen to tell me north-west , which was launched and a historic cooperage. Right: A map of the how much sunnier and drier it is in the in 2015 and is already world-famous. It Walkers and mountain bikers will also NE250 route which is north-east compared with the west. “Mind, has brought a significant boost to visitor delight in a network of waymarked trails highlighted in purple it can be a couple of degrees cooler,” one numbers and revenue in the area. Now the across the estate. shop owner told me. creator of the NE250, local businessman From Tomintoul the NE250 leaves the Map courtesy of From Aberlour, the NE250 continues and owner of Ballindalloch Castle, Guy Old Military Road, built in the mid-1700s, www.northeast250.com north to Spey Bay on the Moray Firth. The Macpherson-Grant, hopes to generate a and follows a peaceful road to the whisky landscape changes from gently undulating similar economic injection to the north-east. settlements of Knockandhu and Glenlivet farmland to coastal plains. This coast is Back on the NE250, I enjoy a swift before joining a busier road, the A95, just popular for wildlife spotting, especially descent through heather-covered moors south of Ballindalloch. dolphins. to . The tourist village brims with On reaching Aberlour, also home to a Several former fishing settlements, such as sightseeing opportunities, such as Balmoral picture-postcard whisky distillery, I take up Findochty, Portnockie and Cullen, feature Castle, 17th-century and my booking for a campervan pitch at the must-see historic harbours and pretty Crathie Kirk. newly upgraded Speyside Gardens Camping beaches. I find myself meandering between The NE250 travels north again, to and Caravan Park. Husband and wife each before I park and investigate a coastal wilderness landscapes. The route turns west owners Olly and Amy Lyon are anticipating walking path that links the settlements. on to a smaller road, the A939, heading for greater numbers of guests thanks to the A well-trodden trail from Cullen takes Cock Bridge, before passing another ski NE250. me to a cove to a slanted arched rock called resort, The Lecht, and descending again Olly said: “We believe the NE250 route Whale’s Mouth. Further along the shore at to Tomintoul. A wildly beautiful drive, will introduce our beautiful area to many Portknockie is the striking sea arch Bow you’ll feel remote from civilisation yet at more people and hopefully it will bring a Fiddle Rock. Tomintoul you enter the vibrant Glenlivet boost to local businesses and attractions.” Back on the road going east, I spot