Avoiding Tobacco Curing Losses Due to Electrical Failures | NC State Extension Publications

9/8/2017 Avoiding Tobacco Curing Losses Due to Electrical Failures | NC State Extension Publications

Avoiding Tobacco Curing Losses Due to Electrical Failures Disaster Recovery Consider the Purchase of a Generator

Most tobacco farms today are equipped with back-up generators to provide energy during inclement weather. If a generator has not been purchased, sources to rent, lease, or buy one is strongly urged. A small standby generator can be moved from barn-to-barn and can be effective in keeping tobacco cool during periods of power outages. More information is available through Cooperative Extension (http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/local-county-center/) concerning the purchase of a standby generator.

Curing Tips

Should adverse weather cause the loss of electrical current to the tobacco curing barn and a backup generator is not available, listed below are some tips that are recommended in order to minimize leaf damage.

For tobacco that is being cured, the damage that might be sustained is related to the stage of cure when the power is lost and the condition of the tobacco when it is loaded into the barn. Tobacco that is in the very early or late stages of curing generally fairs the best when the power is out for extended periods. The following guidelines are useful when generator capacity is limited or not available:

Yellowing (95 degrees WB/100 degrees DB) - about 24 hours - This period can be extended if the tobacco can be cooled to near outside temperatures before power outage occurs or as soon as possible after the outage occurs. Thereafter, the heat should be flushed every hour if the generator capacity is not sufficient to continue the cure normally. If a generator is not available, all air vents and doors should be opened to allow as much heat as possible to escape.

Late yellowing/early leaf drying (105 degrees WB/105-115 degrees DB) - about 6 hours - This is the most critical period for damage and the tobacco should be cooled as soon as possible by any means available, with the heat being flushed every hour as suggested above. If sufficient generator capacity is not available and your area is expecting severe damage, tobacco that would be in this stage of curing during a prolonged power outage might be more profitable to the grower if it had not harvested.

Leaf drying (105 degrees WB/120-135 DB) - about 24 hours - Extend the safe period by cooling as suggested above. Stem drying (110 degrees WB/150 degrees + DB) - several days -

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Attention to these barns can be delayed in order to provide attention to barns in the earliest stages of curing.

Barn Loading Considerations

Damage to tobacco during power outages is usually more severe in boxes than racks and particularly when containers are not loaded uniformly or loaded with wet tobacco. Therefore, tobacco harvested between now and the time the threat is passed should be harvested dry, loaded uniformly, and perhaps the containers should be loaded lighter than normal in order to maximize air movement and cooling potential should a power outage occur.

Insurance Coverage

Growers who have insurance that requires a certain amount of hail damage before wind damage is in effect should be aware that hail damage is very difficult to prove following a hurricane. This is due to the fact that hail during a hurricane is rare and severe wind damage may mask damage due to hail. Therefore, evidence such as photographs of the hail (with date and time) or eye witness accounts by neighbors could be helpful in these situations.

For More Information

For more information on disaster preparedness and recovery visit the NC Disaster Information Center (http://ncdisaster.com).

Adapted by Dr. Grant Ellington, Extension Assistant Professor and Mitch Smith, County Extension Director.

Publication date: June 11, 2014

North Carolina State University and North Carolina A&T State University commit themselves to positive action to secure equal opportunity regardless of race, color, creed, national origin, religion, sex, age, veteran status or disability. In addition, the two Universities welcome all persons without regard to sexual orientation.

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Avoiding Tobacco Curing Losses Due to Electrical Failures Disaster Recovery Consider the Purchase of a Generator

Curing Tips

Leaf drying (105 degrees WB/120-135 DB) - about 24 hours - Extend the safe period by cooling as suggested above. Stem drying (110 degrees WB/150 degrees + DB) - several days -

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Attention to these barns can be delayed in order to provide attention to barns in the earliest stages of curing.

Barn Loading Considerations

Insurance Coverage

For More Information

For more information on disaster preparedness and recovery visit the NC Disaster Information Center (http://ncdisaster.com).

Adapted by Dr. Grant Ellington, Extension Assistant Professor and Mitch Smith, County Extension Director.

Publication date: June 11, 2014

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Choosing a Contractor Disaster Recovery

If you’re going to hire someone to do home repairs, take care to find a reliable company or individual. Ask people you know to refer you to a contractor, or call the local office of codes enforcement, builders association, Chambers of Commerce, or Better Business Bureau. In North Carolina, jobs of $30,000 or more require a General Contractor’s license.

Find a contractor familiar with the type of work you need and ask to see some past work. If this is not possible, ask for references from previous jobs the contractor has done.

The contractor needs to be insured. Insurance should include comprehensive policies that protect his or her business and your home, including public liability, property damage protection, and workers’ compensation. The contractor also should warranty damage that might become evident in the year after completion.

Ask for written quotes with all details from three different bidders. Make certain all are bidding on the exact same job. Remember, the lowest price is not always the best one. There may be a misunderstanding of the nature of the work being quoted, a mistake in the quote, or differences in the quality of workmanship and materials. All the details and agreements about the job must be written down.

Include the building plans and/or specifications in the contract.

Specify the start and finish dates in the contract to protect your interests, but realize that bad weather, availability of materials, or other problems may affect these dates.

Have a lawyer review all contracts and related documents before you sign, if possible (especially for large projects).

The contract should specify terms for payment. There may be terms for making a series of payments throughout the project, such as after each inspection is made and passed. Don’t make a large first payment, and don’t pay for the project in full until work has been completed and after an approved final inspection.

Describe the work to be done. This should include a detailed description of the materials and grades to be used as well as the repairs to be made.

Include all financing information required by state and federal laws.

List the name and address of contractor and your name and address.

Clearly state any warranties or guarantees on the work.

Be sure both you and the contractor sign the agreement, with each of you keeping original copies.

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Never sign a completion certificate until all work is satisfactorily done. Also, never pay a contractor or workman in full for work before it is done. The contract should specify the payment schedule. There is a Homeowner’s Recovery Fund that went into effect October 1991. Its purpose is to provide some amount of monetary assistance to homeowners who have suffered a reimbursable loss resulting from the dishonest or incompetent conduct of a licensed general contractor. There are specifics that must be followed when applying, including having won a judgment against a contractor. Information can be obtained at:

North Carolina Licensing Board for General Contractors (http://www.nclbgc.org/) PO Box 17187 Raleigh, NC 27612 Phone: 919-571-4183 Fax: 919-571-4703

For More Information

For more information on disaster preparedness and recovery visit the NC Disaster Information Center (http://ncdisaster.com).

Author:

Sarah Kirby Professor and Department Extension Leader Agricultural and Human Sciences Publication date: June 5, 2014

This publication printed on: Sept. 08, 2017 URL of this page (http://content.ces.ncsu.edu/choosing-a-contractor)

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Choosing a Contractor Disaster Recovery

Find a contractor familiar with the type of work you need and ask to see some past work. If this is not possible, ask for references from previous jobs the contractor has done.

Include the building plans and/or specifications in the contract.

Specify the start and finish dates in the contract to protect your interests, but realize that bad weather, availability of materials, or other problems may affect these dates.

Have a lawyer review all contracts and related documents before you sign, if possible (especially for large projects).

Describe the work to be done. This should include a detailed description of the materials and grades to be used as well as the repairs to be made.

Include all financing information required by state and federal laws.

List the name and address of contractor and your name and address.

Clearly state any warranties or guarantees on the work.

Be sure both you and the contractor sign the agreement, with each of you keeping original copies.

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North Carolina Licensing Board for General Contractors (http://www.nclbgc.org/) PO Box 17187 Raleigh, NC 27612 Phone: 919-571-4183 Fax: 919-571-4703

For More Information

For more information on disaster preparedness and recovery visit the NC Disaster Information Center (http://ncdisaster.com).

Author:

Sarah Kirby Professor and Department Extension Leader Agricultural and Human Sciences Publication date: June 5, 2014

This publication printed on: Sept. 08, 2017 URL of this page (http://content.ces.ncsu.edu/choosing-a-contractor)

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https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/choosing-a-contractor 3/3 9/8/2017 Cleaning Flooded Upholstered Furniture, Curtains, Bedding, Table Linens and Other Household Textiles | NC State Extension Publications

Cleaning Flooded Upholstered Furniture, Curtains, Bedding, Table Linens and Other Household Textiles Disaster Recovery

Before attempting to clean flooded household textiles, here is some important information that you need to know.

Make sure you have a disinfectant that has an EPA Registration Number on the label. This ensures that the product has met EPA requirements for disinfectants.

Make sure you have the right disinfectant for the job. Check the directions. Other than chlorine bleach, most disinfectants are effective only on hard surfaces.

Be sure that wash water is safe to use before washing household linens.

Clean and sanitize your washing machine if necessary.

Use a hose to remove wet mud and dirt. Scrape dried mud and/or shake dirt and residue from fabrics. Then, rinse or wash as soon as possible to help prevent the growth of mildew.

Upholstered Furniture

When faced with flood-damaged upholstered furniture, your options are limited. If the water reached the upholstery, the fabric may be stained or watermarked. If the chair or sofa was in water for several hours or more, mud and silt may have penetrated the fabric and padding. The padding will hold the water, causing mildew to grow inside and out. Finished wood surfaces will become cloudy. If water penetrates the finish, the wood will mildew. Joints in the frame may loosen. The furniture also may be contaminated with sewage, pesticides, or industrial chemicals that were in the floodwaters. It may be best to discard the upholstered furniture.

If you decide to restore upholstered furniture, you must strip it down to the frame. Springs may or may not be salvageable depending on the type and how they are attached to the frame. “S” springs attached with metal clamps can be cleaned and disinfected. Coil springs attached to a webbing hose

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of burlap or rubber may be more difficult to assess. Burlap webbing can mildew and will probably need to be replaced. A reupholsterer can tell you if it will cost less to purchase new coil springs or clean and reattach all the existing springs to a new base.

The reupholsterer can also estimate the cost of replacing springs, padding, fabric and labor. Use this estimate to decide whether to buy new or reupholster damaged furniture. Consider the quality of the frame itself and any sentimental or monetary value (restoring an antique may be worthwhile).

If you decide to salvage an upholstered piece, you can repair the wooden frame.

1. Disinfect the wood frame using one of the following three techniques:

Wash it with a chlorine bleach solution (¾ cup bleach to 1 gallon of water)

Spray it with a phenol product (such as Lysol). Follow directions on the label.

Brush it with an undiluted pine oil disinfectant.

2. After disinfecting, put the frame in a well-ventilated location so that it can dry out slowly. Don’t put it out in the sun. It will dry out too quickly, and the wood will warp and twist.

3. Periodically remove mildew from the frame. Mildew may grow on the frame until the moisture content of the wood drops below 20 percent or less. Clean off the mildew periodically, using one of the disinfectants mentioned above.

4. After the frame dries out, re-glue any loose joints. If you don't, the sofa or chair will squeak every time someone sits on it.

Draperies, Curtains, and Other Window Treatments

Draperies and curtains, especially full-length draperies, may have one or more problems due to the floodwaters. Color change, bleeding of dyes, shrinkage and permanent watermarks from migrating finishes are common. If window treatments were in the water or in the damp environment for a few days, mildew will grow. Mildew is a difficult problem since the disinfectants used to kill it may affect fabric, color and finish.

Shades, aluminum, vinyl or wood blinds and vinyl or wood shutters may not be salvageable. Metals and metal parts corrode, wood may swell and warp and you may not be able to clean and sanitize the cloth tapes and cords without further damage.

Mattresses

Throw out any innerspring mattress or box spring that was partially or totally submerged in floodwater contaminated with sewage, pesticides, industrial chemicals, etc. You may need to throw out mattresses even if the floodwater was not contaminated because it is almost impossible to dry

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mattresses thoroughly before mold begins to grow. Buying a good used or new mattress is the best choice for your health in the long run.

You can salvage a mattress or box spring that has gotten wet from a leaking roof or had minimum contact (only 1 to 2 inches of contact for only a few hours) with clean floodwater (i.e. broken water lines). Clean the surface and put the mattress right-side-up in the sun to dry as much as possible. Use blocks to keep it off the ground and allow air to circulate around it. Use a fan to circulate air and speed up the drying process. But, if there is a musty odor after it dries, then mildew is present. You should have the mattress or box springs sanitized by a professional. Look in the yellow pages of the telephone book under "Mattress-Renovating" for a professional in your area.

If sanitizing does not remove the odor, then throw the mattress out. Remember, sanitizing the mattress may kill molds that are present at the time, but unless the materials are completely dry inside, the mold will grow back again. That will be unhealthy for anyone using the mattress.

Pillows

Throw out pillows that came in contact with contaminated floodwater. It will be difficult to remove all the dirt and silt from the fabric weave and the inside material and almost impossible to disinfect them thoroughly.

Rain-soaked pillows can be salvaged. Here are some instructions for washing.

Feather pillows

If the ticking is in good condition, wash feathers and ticking together. If you are unsure about the condition of the seams, then put another pillowcase over the pillow and baste the opening closed with a sewing machine.

Machine wash the pillows in warm (not hot) water for 15-20 minutes using a laundry detergent and disinfectant. Do not wash more than two pillows at a time.

Use the extra rinse cycle to remove all traves of detergent and disinfectant.

Place in a clothes dryer set on a moderate heat setting. Add several bath towels or a clean tennis shoe in the dryer with the pillows to speed up drying and to keep the pllows moving. It may take several drying cycles to dry them completely. Fluff the pillows with your fist occasionally to shake up the feathers and hasten drying.

To air-dry, hang by two corners on the clothesline. Change position end to end and shake feathers often to speed up drying.

Throw out feather pillows that were badly soiled with debris or insulation or if they are not in good condition. The glass fibers from the insulation will be very difficult if not impossible to remove.

Polyester Fiberfill Pillows

Brush off surface dirt.

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Machine wash in warm water using an enzyme detergent. Tumble dry at a moderate setting with several bath towels or press out as much water as possible by hand and hang pillows on the clothesline to dry.

Foam Rubber or Urethane Pillows

Remove cover.

Follow manufacturer's directions if they are available. Otherwise, soak in cool water; then machine wash.

Dry away from heat or sunlight. Do not dry in dryer unless on an "air only" setting. Pilows may dry very slowly in the air. If the pillows are old, they may crumble.

Bed, Bath, and Table Linens

Mildew will start to grow on sheets, tablecloths, towels, and similar items that are in water for 24 to 48 hours. Even linens in a closet above floodwaters can mildew if left in the flooded house for 4 days or more. If the stains from contaminated floodwaters have dried, machine wash the washable linens using an enzyme detergent and warm water. Then, wash them a second time in hot water using a chlorine bleach to sanitize them. Remember that colorsafe oxygen bleaches do not disinfect. (Note: If there is a large amount of iron in soil deposits on the linens or if your water has a high iron content, chlorine bleach can cause rust stains to appear on fabrics.)

If flooded fabric appears to have rust stains, try a commercially prepared rust remover. Look for these products in the laundry or fabric dye section of the supermarket. Usually they are intended to be used on white or colorfast fabrics as they can cause color removal. Follow package directions and test first on a small area that won’t show. Remove the rust stains before you disinfect with chlorine bleach. Do not dry fabrics in a dryer until satisfied with the results. Drying in a dryer can set stains, making them impossible to remove.

Blankets, Quilts, and Comforters

Blankets, quilts and comforters may need special care. Check the care label to see if chlorine bleach can be used. Use bleach and use the hottest water temperature that is safe. Wash only one blanket, quilt, or comforter at a time. If the stains from contaminated floodwaters have dried, machine wash the washable linens using an enzyme detergent and warm water. Then, wash them a second time in hot water using a chlorine bleach to sanitize them. Some large comforters must be washed in an extra-large commercial washer. Following final washing procedure, rinse heavy items at least three times in clear, warm water. Spin off water or gently squeeze out as much water as possible. When satisfied with the results, dry in an automatic dryer at moderate heat setting, or dry in a warm room with a fan, or across two or three clotheslines. Putting several dry bath towels in dryer with blanket, quilt, or comforter will speed up drying.

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Washing Woolen Blankets

Shake and brush well to remove loose dirt. Wash in lukewarm (barely warm) water with mild soap or detergent. Use a disinfectant. Remember that chlorine bleach cannot be used on wool. Dry in warm place or in direct sunlight.

Electric Blankets

Electric blankets submerged in flood waters may have wiring damage and should be discarded. If the blanket is just dirty, follow manufacturer’s directions for cleaning. Most manufacturers recommend electric blankets be washed, not dry-cleaned. Avoid bending wiring. Do not put electric blankets through a wringer or dry in a dryer, unless manufacturer says it is safe to do so. To dry, squeeze down blanket lengthwise and hang over two lines. Check label to find out if a disinfectant like chlorine bleach can be used. If the blanket was soiled by contaminated floodwaters and cannot be thoroughly disinfected, throw it out.

References

Standard and Reference Guide for Professional Water Damage Restoration, IICRC S500, Vancouver, Washington, Institute of Inspection, Cleaning and Restoration Certification, 1999.

NIDR Guidelines for Fire and Smoke Damage Repair, Association of Specialists in Cleaning in Restoration, 1997.

Repairing Your Flooded Home, ARC 4477 FEMA 234, American Red Cross and The Federal Emergency Management Agency, 1992.

For More Information

For more information on disaster preparedness and recovery visit the NC Disaster Information Center (http://ncdisaster.com).

Authors:

Sarah Kirby Professor and Department Extension Leader Agricultural and Human Sciences Wilma Hammett Executive Director FCS Foundation and ECA Foundation Office of College Advancement Publication date: June 5, 2014

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Cleaning Flooded Upholstered Furniture, Curtains, Bedding, Table Linens and Other Household Textiles Disaster Recovery

Before attempting to clean flooded household textiles, here is some important information that you need to know.

Make sure you have a disinfectant that has an EPA Registration Number on the label. This ensures that the product has met EPA requirements for disinfectants.

Make sure you have the right disinfectant for the job. Check the directions. Other than chlorine bleach, most disinfectants are effective only on hard surfaces.

Be sure that wash water is safe to use before washing household linens.

Clean and sanitize your washing machine if necessary.

Use a hose to remove wet mud and dirt. Scrape dried mud and/or shake dirt and residue from fabrics. Then, rinse or wash as soon as possible to help prevent the growth of mildew.

Upholstered Furniture

If you decide to salvage an upholstered piece, you can repair the wooden frame.

1. Disinfect the wood frame using one of the following three techniques:

Wash it with a chlorine bleach solution (¾ cup bleach to 1 gallon of water)

Spray it with a phenol product (such as Lysol). Follow directions on the label.

Brush it with an undiluted pine oil disinfectant.

2. After disinfecting, put the frame in a well-ventilated location so that it can dry out slowly. Don’t put it out in the sun. It will dry out too quickly, and the wood will warp and twist.

4. After the frame dries out, re-glue any loose joints. If you don't, the sofa or chair will squeak every time someone sits on it.

Draperies, Curtains, and Other Window Treatments

Mattresses

mattresses thoroughly before mold begins to grow. Buying a good used or new mattress is the best choice for your health in the long run.

Pillows

Rain-soaked pillows can be salvaged. Here are some instructions for washing.

Feather pillows

Machine wash the pillows in warm (not hot) water for 15-20 minutes using a laundry detergent and disinfectant. Do not wash more than two pillows at a time.

Use the extra rinse cycle to remove all traves of detergent and disinfectant.

To air-dry, hang by two corners on the clothesline. Change position end to end and shake feathers often to speed up drying.

Polyester Fiberfill Pillows

Brush off surface dirt.

Foam Rubber or Urethane Pillows

Remove cover.

Follow manufacturer's directions if they are available. Otherwise, soak in cool water; then machine wash.

Dry away from heat or sunlight. Do not dry in dryer unless on an "air only" setting. Pilows may dry very slowly in the air. If the pillows are old, they may crumble.

Bed, Bath, and Table Linens

Blankets, Quilts, and Comforters

Washing Woolen Blankets

Electric Blankets

References

Standard and Reference Guide for Professional Water Damage Restoration, IICRC S500, Vancouver, Washington, Institute of Inspection, Cleaning and Restoration Certification, 1999.

NIDR Guidelines for Fire and Smoke Damage Repair, Association of Specialists in Cleaning in Restoration, 1997.

Repairing Your Flooded Home, ARC 4477 FEMA 234, American Red Cross and The Federal Emergency Management Agency, 1992.

For More Information

For more information on disaster preparedness and recovery visit the NC Disaster Information Center (http://ncdisaster.com).

Authors:

This publication printed on: Sept. 08, 2017 URL of this page (http://content.ces.ncsu.edu/cleaning-flooded-upholstered-furniture-curtains-bedding- table-linens-and-other-household-textiles)

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Controlling Damage in Pesticide Storage Facilities on the Farm Disaster Recovery

When the flood waters subside, carefully evaluate the pesticide storage area. If this area was underwater, damaged containers and spilled product could result in a potentially hazardous situation. Deal with it the same way as any spill.

Your personal safety and that of anyone helping you should be the first consideration. Of course, appropriate personal safety equipment should be used, such as heavy-duty rubber gloves, rubber boots, a chemical resistant apron, and eye protection. A respirator may be necessary for some chemicals. If you know the product or products damaged, use the personal protection as required on those labels. When in doubt, use the personal protection equipment suggested. Then follow these standard guidelines for handling spills:

1. Control the Spill: Stop the spill as quickly as possible by restoring the container to its upright position, closing a leaking valve or hose, or putting a secondary container in place to catch the leaking solution. Bags that are broken or soaked through need to be carefully placed in a secondary container, such as a drum or heavy plastic bags.

2. Call Your Retailer: Get advice quickly from your agricultural chemical retailer or manufacturer on cleanup of specific chemicals. They also can provide you with special safety advice and other information.

3. Contain the Spread: When the leak has been stopped, contain the spread of the spill by creating dams of absorbent material in the path of the spilled liquid. It may be most important to first divert a spill away from a nearby pond, stream, or storm sewer before attempting to stop the spill or leak. This is a judgment call that only you can make.

4. Begin Cleanup Promptly: As soon as the situation has been stabilized, begin cleaning it up. Quick response to a spill is not only required in many states, but will prevent the chemical from leaching or washing away in a rainstorm. If possible, stand upwind or use a fan for ventilation.

5. Use Absorbent Materials: On pavement or concrete, use absorbent materials to capture the spilled liquids. They then can be shoveled or swept into disposal containers. Non-chlorinated pet litter is an excellent, inexpensive absorbent material to keep on hand for such purposes. Large spills may require commercially available pillows of highly absorbent materials.

6. Properly Dispose of the Damaged or Absorbent Materials: Contact your County Extension office (http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/local-county-center/) to find out where to dispose of

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the damaged pesticides.

If there is standing water in your pesticide storage facility, assume it is hazardous until you can check all pesticide containers for leaks or breakage. Do not allow any skin contact with this water. If there is no evidence of pesticide leakage into the water, it can be safely pumped out. However, if pesticides have mixed with this water, the water will have to be pumped to a storage tank for land application. Land application has to be at or below label rates, so first the amount of product spillage will have to be estimated. The water should be filtered before it enters the spray tank to avoid nozzle clogging.

Be sure to wear your personal protection equipment during all cleanup operations. If possible, have someone remain nearby checking on you regularly in case you are injured or overcome during cleanup.

You may need to obtain further information or assistance before cleaning up the pesticide storage area. In addition to your retail dealer and the manufacturers, the following is a list of numbers where information may be obtained:

NCDA&CS Pesticide Section (http://ncagr.gov/SPCAP/pesticides/index.htm), 919-733-3556

NCDA&CS Pesticide Disposal Assistance Program (http://ncagr.gov/SPCAP/pesticides/PDAP/), 919-715-9023

Chemtrec Emergency Hotline, 800-424-9300

EPA Pesticide Management and Disposal, 703-305-7385

EPA Hazardous Waste Hotline, 800-424-9346

EPA Safe Drinking Water Hotline, 800-426-4791

For More Information

For more information on disaster preparedness and recovery visit the NC Disaster Information Center (http://ncdisaster.com). Prepared by Cooperative Extension Specialists at North Carolina State University.

Publication date: June 11, 2014

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Controlling Damage in Pesticide Storage Facilities on the Farm Disaster Recovery

6. Properly Dispose of the Damaged or Absorbent Materials: Contact your County Extension office (http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/local-county-center/) to find out where to dispose of

the damaged pesticides.

Be sure to wear your personal protection equipment during all cleanup operations. If possible, have someone remain nearby checking on you regularly in case you are injured or overcome during cleanup.

NCDA&CS Pesticide Section (http://ncagr.gov/SPCAP/pesticides/index.htm), 919-733-3556

NCDA&CS Pesticide Disposal Assistance Program (http://ncagr.gov/SPCAP/pesticides/PDAP/), 919-715-9023

Chemtrec Emergency Hotline, 800-424-9300

EPA Pesticide Management and Disposal, 703-305-7385

EPA Hazardous Waste Hotline, 800-424-9346

EPA Safe Drinking Water Hotline, 800-426-4791

For More Information

Publication date: June 11, 2014

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Dealing with Potential Moisture Problems After a Flood Disaster Recovery

Moisture problems in the walls, crawl space or attic can lead to serious pest problems, such as wood-boring beetles and wood-decaying fungi in the floor joists. Mold and mildew growing on wood or insulation can also attract nuisance pests, such as plaster beetles, which can slowly build up in numbers and become a chronic problem. Keep a few important facts in mind:

Having mold or mildew on joists or beams does not mean that wood decay will occur.

Wood-decaying fungi do not grow below the fiber-saturation point (28 to 30 percent moisture) of the wood.

Problems with wood-boring beetles are less likely to occur when the wood’s moisture content is lower than 15 percent. This level may be difficult to reach immediately.

Do not seal up walls until the wood moisture content is down to 19 percent or lower.

You need a wood moisture meter to determine if you have excess moisture in your crawl space, attic or framing wall.

Your priority should be to complete permanent or temporary repairs and to allow any structural wood to dry out as quickly as possible. It may take some time to get the wood moisture down in the crawl space, but it is not impossible. Here are a few hints:

Clean any solid wood surfaces with non-phosphate detergent.

Disinfect to kill any mold that the cleaning may have missed.

Consider a borate treatment to resist termites, decay and mold. Do this while the wood framing is exposed.

After cleaning and disinfecting, air out and dry out the home.

Make sure foundation vents open properly and that they are clear of debris.

Remove standing water from the crawl space as soon as possible. Increase ventilation to the crawl space. This can be a simple matter of opening the crawl space door or using a fan to pull air OUT of the crawl space, assuming that weather conditions (and availability of electricity) allow you to do so. You may have to use some large-mesh metal screening over the crawl space door to keep out animals, such as raccoons, opossums and skunks.

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Remove and replace place wet insulation in crawl spaces and walls. For more advice on home repair and moisture control and reduction in storm-damaged areas, contact your county Cooperative Extension center (http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/local-county-center/).

Remain on mold alert. If mold returns, repeat cleaning and drying process.

Do not restore the home until all materials have thoroughly dried.

For More Information

For more information on disaster preparedness and recovery visit the NC Disaster Information Center (http://ncdisaster.com).

Publication date: June 11, 2014

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Dealing with Potential Moisture Problems After a Flood Disaster Recovery

Having mold or mildew on joists or beams does not mean that wood decay will occur.

Wood-decaying fungi do not grow below the fiber-saturation point (28 to 30 percent moisture) of the wood.

Problems with wood-boring beetles are less likely to occur when the wood’s moisture content is lower than 15 percent. This level may be difficult to reach immediately.

Do not seal up walls until the wood moisture content is down to 19 percent or lower.

You need a wood moisture meter to determine if you have excess moisture in your crawl space, attic or framing wall.

Clean any solid wood surfaces with non-phosphate detergent.

Disinfect to kill any mold that the cleaning may have missed.

Consider a borate treatment to resist termites, decay and mold. Do this while the wood framing is exposed.

After cleaning and disinfecting, air out and dry out the home.

Make sure foundation vents open properly and that they are clear of debris.

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Remain on mold alert. If mold returns, repeat cleaning and drying process.

Do not restore the home until all materials have thoroughly dried.

For More Information

For more information on disaster preparedness and recovery visit the NC Disaster Information Center (http://ncdisaster.com).

Publication date: June 11, 2014

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Dealing with Snakes After a Storm Disaster Recovery

Like other residents in the path of a major storm, snakes become displaced and left homeless. As a result, they may seek shelter and food inside houses, storage sheds, barns, and other buildings. Damaged structures are more accessible to snakes and flooding may deposit some snakes indoors. Displaced snakes may also be found under debris scattered by the storm or in debris piles created during the cleanup effort. It’s important to realize that both poisonous and non-poisonous snakes are beneficial to people because they help control rodents, which are also displaced by storms.

Tips for working in areas where snakes may be found:

Outdoors

Wear heavy work gloves and boots (at least 10 inches high), long pants or snake leggings (if available) when working in areas cluttered with debris. Avoid wearing shorts when working with debris.

Watch where you place your hands and feet when removing or cleaning debris.

Look carefully before you place your fingers in and under piles of debris that have sat for any length of time.

Never step over logs or other obstacles unless you can see the other side.

Watch for snakes sunning on fallen trees, limbs, and other debris.

If you encounter a snake, step back and allow the animal to proceed on its way. Snakes are not usually fast-moving animals, and you should be able to move out of their way.

Indoors

If you find a snake in your house, don’t panic; try to confine the snake to a small area of the house.

Non-poisonous snakes can be captured by pinning the snake down with a long stick or pole, preferably forked at one end, and then removed by scooping up with a flat-blade shovel.

If you are uncomfortable about removing the snake yourself, try to get help from a neighbor or someone in the community who has experience handling snakes.

As a last resort, you may need to kill a poisonous snake. Club it with a long stick, rod, or other tool. Never attempt to kill a poisonous snake with an object that brings you within the snake’s striking range (half of the snake’s total length). A pistol or rifle may seem to be a simple way to

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get rid of snake, but discharging a firearm in or around areas where people are cleaning up storm debris is dangerous, potentially lethal and often illegal.

All openings around the house a quarter-inch and larger should be sealed to exclude snakes and other unwanted wildlife. Check areas such as corners of doors and windows, crawlspace doors, gaps around water pipes, and electrical service entrances. To exclude snakes, seal holes in masonry foundations with mortar or expanding foam that hardens (such as Great Stuff). Holes in wooden buildings can be sealed with fine 1/8-inch mesh hardware cloth and/or sheet metal.

Remove debris from around the house as soon as possible. Such clutter attracts rodents, lizards and insects on which many snakes feed and also provides shelter for the snakes. Vegetation along the foundation should be kept closely mowed.

There are no pesticides that can be used legally to kill snakes. Repellents and traps work with limited success.

Finally

If you are bitten by a poisonous snake, don’t try to treat the bite yourself. Go to the nearest hospital (or physician) or contact local emergency medical services about obtaining immediate treatment. Try to make a mental note of the appearance of the snake for identification and treatment purposes. Inexpensive snake-bite kits without antivenom are more harmful than helpful, and they should be avoided. Doctors no longer recommend these kits because of infection, tissue damage from cutting, and the risk of getting venom in a cut in your mouth.

Learn to identify non-poisonous and poisonous snakes. Information on snake identification can be obtained from your county Extension center (http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/local-county-center/) or from your state’s wildlife department.

For More Information

For more information on disaster preparedness and recovery visit the NC Disaster Information Center (http://ncdisaster.com).

Adapted by Pete Bromley, Extension Wildlife Specialist, N.C. State University, from Alabama Cooperative Extension Service information.

Publication date: June 11, 2014

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Dealing with Snakes After a Storm Disaster Recovery

Tips for working in areas where snakes may be found:

Outdoors

Wear heavy work gloves and boots (at least 10 inches high), long pants or snake leggings (if available) when working in areas cluttered with debris. Avoid wearing shorts when working with debris.

Watch where you place your hands and feet when removing or cleaning debris.

Look carefully before you place your fingers in and under piles of debris that have sat for any length of time.

Never step over logs or other obstacles unless you can see the other side.

Watch for snakes sunning on fallen trees, limbs, and other debris.

If you encounter a snake, step back and allow the animal to proceed on its way. Snakes are not usually fast-moving animals, and you should be able to move out of their way.

Indoors

If you find a snake in your house, don’t panic; try to confine the snake to a small area of the house.

Non-poisonous snakes can be captured by pinning the snake down with a long stick or pole, preferably forked at one end, and then removed by scooping up with a flat-blade shovel.

If you are uncomfortable about removing the snake yourself, try to get help from a neighbor or someone in the community who has experience handling snakes.

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get rid of snake, but discharging a firearm in or around areas where people are cleaning up storm debris is dangerous, potentially lethal and often illegal.

There are no pesticides that can be used legally to kill snakes. Repellents and traps work with limited success.

Finally

For More Information

For more information on disaster preparedness and recovery visit the NC Disaster Information Center (http://ncdisaster.com).

Adapted by Pete Bromley, Extension Wildlife Specialist, N.C. State University, from Alabama Cooperative Extension Service information.

Publication date: June 11, 2014

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Eliminating Odors from Your Refrigerator Disaster Recovery

After your power has been restored, you will need to clean and deodorize your refigerator. Here are some helpful tips.

Remove all drawers, racks, and shelves. Wash them in soapy water and rinse in clear water. Then wipe them down with a solution of 1 tablespoon of chlorine bleach per gallon of water.

Wash the inside of the refrigerator with a mixture of 1 cup of baking soda to a gallon of warm water.

Turn on the refrigerator and fill it with clean, crumpled newspaper that has been sprinkled with water.

Continue to run the refrigerator for several days, changing newspapers every other day.

Once refrigerator odor has been significantly reduced, place an open box of baking soda inside, and start using your refigerator again.

For More Information

For more information on disaster preparedness and recovery visit the NC Disaster Information Center (http://ncdisaster.com).

Prepared by North Carolina Cooperative Extension Specialists at NC State University.

Publication date: June 5, 2014

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Eliminating Odors from Your Refrigerator Disaster Recovery

After your power has been restored, you will need to clean and deodorize your refigerator. Here are some helpful tips.

Remove all drawers, racks, and shelves. Wash them in soapy water and rinse in clear water. Then wipe them down with a solution of 1 tablespoon of chlorine bleach per gallon of water.

Wash the inside of the refrigerator with a mixture of 1 cup of baking soda to a gallon of warm water.

Turn on the refrigerator and fill it with clean, crumpled newspaper that has been sprinkled with water.

Continue to run the refrigerator for several days, changing newspapers every other day.

Once refrigerator odor has been significantly reduced, place an open box of baking soda inside, and start using your refigerator again.

For More Information

For more information on disaster preparedness and recovery visit the NC Disaster Information Center (http://ncdisaster.com).

Prepared by North Carolina Cooperative Extension Specialists at NC State University.

Publication date: June 5, 2014

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Flood-Damaged Furniture Disaster Recovery Assessing the Damage

Floodwater can damage wood furniture in several ways. Direct contact can cause changes in structure and appearance. Joints may loosen and the wood itself may warp and/or crack. The finish will get cloudy and staining can occur. The damage to wood can progress from slight to severe in only a few days. Before trying to salvage damaged wood furniture, decide which pieces are worth restoring. Such decisions should be based on:

Extent of damage

Cost of the article

Sentimental value

Cost of restoration

Antiques may be worth the time, effort, and expense of restoration. Generally, except for drying and cleaning, the less that is done to an antique, the better, since even minor changes can reduce its value.

Try to preserve the original finish of antiques. Restoration is preferable to refinishing. Antiques should dry out slowly to reduce uneven shrinkage, which can cause cracking, warping and splitting. Unless you are an experienced furniture restorer, it is best to leave restoration to a professional who can preserve the value of the piece. Improper drying, restoration and repair procedure can cause more damage.

Solid wood furniture can usually be restored unless the piece was in the water for several days to a week and the damage is severe. Clean and dry the piece, then assess whether or not it can be repaired. Saturated wood expands, and then shrinks as it dries. This may loosen joints and cause warping and swelling. Solid panels and tops are particularly vulnerable, especially when the inside is not finished. Slightly warped boards may be removed and straightened or replaced. Woodworking tools, clamps and other equipment and materials may be needed. Decide if you have the time, equipment and ability to do the work.

Veneered furniture may not be worth the cost and effort of repair unless it is very valuable to you. Veneered furniture usually has a core material that is plywood, particleboard or medium-density fiberboard. Particleboard and fiber cores swell when they come in contact with water. Thus, veneered seams come apart.

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Printed vinyl surfaces and low-pressure laminates will come unglued and cannot be repaired, even by a professional. If veneer is loose in only a few places, you may be able to repair it, but veneered furniture repairs are usually best done by a professional.

If insurance allows part value on flood-damaged furniture, it may be best to apply the money to new furniture, rather than paying for extensive repair.

Salvaging the Furniture

If wooden furniture is salvageable, slow drying and proper repair are essential. Rubber gloves should be used with cleaning solutions or when working with flood-damaged or moldy furniture.

Submerged Furniture

Take furniture outside and remove back panels, drawers and doors, if possible. Drawers and doors will probably stick due to expanding, wet wood. Do not try to force them out from the front.

Use a hose to clean off mud and dirt inside and out.

Take the furniture to a well-ventilated storage area. Do not let it dry in the sun, or it will warp and twist out of shape.

Check the furniture periodically. Remove drawers and open doors as soon as you can without forcing them. Continue to leave the back panel off to allow air to circulate throughout the piece. It may take several weeks or months before the furniture is completely dry and ready to repair and refinish.

Mildew will continue to grow as long as the wood has a moisture content above 20 percent. Use mineral spirits on mildewed surfaces. Be sure to check underneath and inside.

Solid wood furniture with a cloudy finish, flaking or missing finish, open joints and even cracks and warped boards can be salvaged. The joints can be reglued and warped boards can be straightened. Consult an experienced cabinetmaker. Special tools and skills will be needed. If you do not have the skills or the tools, get an estimate. Compare that with the cost of buying new furniture of comparable quality.

Veneered furniture submerged in water for several days will be more difficult to salvage. If the particleboard underneath has swollen, the damage will be permanent.

If the veneer is loose in just a few places, it may be glued back by a cabinetmaker or skilled woodworker.

Damp Furniture

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White spots or a cloudy film may develop on damp furniture that has not been submerged.

To remove the white spots: If the entire surface is affected, rub with a damp cloth dipped in 1 1 turpentine or in a solution of ⁄2 cup household ammonia and ⁄2 cup water. Wipe dry at once, and if the color is restored, polish with wax or furniture polish.

If color is not restored, dip 000 steel wool in oil (boiled linseed, olive, mineral, or lemon).

Rub lightly with the wood grain. Wipe with a soft cloth and re-wax if the color is restored. For deep spots, use a drop or two of ammonia on a damp cloth. Rub at once with a dry cloth. Rubbing cigarette ashes, powdered pumice or a piece of walnut meat into spots may help remove them.

If spots remain after all efforts to remove them, the piece should be stripped of the old finish and refinished.

For More Information

For more information on disaster preparedness and recovery visit the NC Disaster Information Center (http://ncdisaster.com).

Publication date: June 6, 2014

This publication printed on: Sept. 08, 2017 URL of this page (http://content.ces.ncsu.edu/flood-damaged-furniture)

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Flood-Damaged Furniture Disaster Recovery Assessing the Damage

Extent of damage

Cost of the article

Sentimental value

Cost of restoration

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If insurance allows part value on flood-damaged furniture, it may be best to apply the money to new furniture, rather than paying for extensive repair.

Salvaging the Furniture

If wooden furniture is salvageable, slow drying and proper repair are essential. Rubber gloves should be used with cleaning solutions or when working with flood-damaged or moldy furniture.

Submerged Furniture

Take furniture outside and remove back panels, drawers and doors, if possible. Drawers and doors will probably stick due to expanding, wet wood. Do not try to force them out from the front.

Use a hose to clean off mud and dirt inside and out.

Take the furniture to a well-ventilated storage area. Do not let it dry in the sun, or it will warp and twist out of shape.

Mildew will continue to grow as long as the wood has a moisture content above 20 percent. Use mineral spirits on mildewed surfaces. Be sure to check underneath and inside.

Veneered furniture submerged in water for several days will be more difficult to salvage. If the particleboard underneath has swollen, the damage will be permanent.

If the veneer is loose in just a few places, it may be glued back by a cabinetmaker or skilled woodworker.

Damp Furniture

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White spots or a cloudy film may develop on damp furniture that has not been submerged.

If color is not restored, dip 000 steel wool in oil (boiled linseed, olive, mineral, or lemon).

If spots remain after all efforts to remove them, the piece should be stripped of the old finish and refinished.

For More Information

For more information on disaster preparedness and recovery visit the NC Disaster Information Center (http://ncdisaster.com).

Publication date: June 6, 2014

This publication printed on: Sept. 08, 2017 URL of this page (http://content.ces.ncsu.edu/flood-damaged-furniture)

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Handling and Cleaning up Damaged Pesticide Containers at Home Disaster Recovery

Pesticides should always be stored off of the ground to reduce the chances of floodwaters damaging the containers and potentially contaminating the storage area (or other objects stored there). If the recent storm resulted in water damage to a pesticide container in your home, follow these steps.

1. Keep children and pets away from the area.

2. Wear rubber gloves (preferably chemical-resistant gloves) and protective eyewear when handling damaged pesticide containers. If available, a rubberized apron will also help protect your clothing from pesticides. If there is standing water in the area where you store your pesticides, wear rubber boots or waders. Pesticide-contaminated water may soak into sneakers, ordinary shoes, or boots and be absorbed through your skin.

3. Collect spilled solid pesticides (granular, dust, or powder) and, if possible, put it back in the original containers. Useable products should be applied to an appropriate site (i.e., one listed on the product label). If you don’t think that the chemical is useable, place it in a closable container or plastic bag and dispose of it. Note: Do not pour pesticides down the drain or toilet. -Soak up spilled liquid pesticides with clay-based cat litter or another absorbent material. Shovel the litter into a garbage bag for appropriate disposal, and label the bag. -If you must transfer a pesticide to another container for disposal, clearly label this container as to its contents. Never transfer pesticides to non-pesticide containers except for immediate disposal. Never use food containers (e.g., milk or soda bottles) for pesticide storage. Someone may accidentally drink the contents. -Discard rusted or damaged aerosol cans, following the product label instructions. In many cases, you can discard the container with your regular trash, but check with your trash collection agency first. -Place damaged paper bags or cardboard boxes that contain pesticides in garbage bags. Seal and label the garbage bags as to their contents and place the bag in a trash can. Do not put bags containing pesticides in with your other trash unless you are allowed to dispose of them together. -Liquid pesticides in undamaged plastic bottles should be salvageable. Some pesticides are water insoluble and turn milky-white when water is added. Any pesticide that you suspect is contaminated should be discarded, rather than stored. -If the pesticide container label is damaged or lost, get another copy of the label or write the name of the chemical on the container. Don’t rely on your memory to recall weeks or months later what chemical is in the container or how it is applied.

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4. Check with your municipal or private waste collection office about disposing of full or partially- filled pesticide containers with your regular trash. A better choice is to take damaged or contaminated pesticides to an approved hazardous household chemicals collection or disposal site. If you do not know where it is located, contact your county Cooperative Extension Center (http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/local-county-center/).

5. If you can’t dispose of damaged pesticide containers immediately, place them in a secure area where children, pets, and wild animals cannot reach them.

6. Clean your broom, shovel, or other pesticide-contaminated clean-up tools thoroughly with water before using them anywhere else. Because it is impossible to remove all pesticide residues from these tools, you should consider discarding them. Thoroughly rinse rubber gloves and boots worn while handling damaged pesticide containers. If you spill pesticides on your skin or clothing:

Remove pesticide-saturated clothing immediately. Shower or rinse contaminated areas of skin thoroughly.

Put on clean clothing.

Do not reuse contaminated clothes without first washing them. Do not wash pesticide- contaminated clothing in a load of regular laundry. Wash contaminated clothing alone in the washing machine using hot water. Line-dry the clothing. Do not put it in the dryer. If you start feeling dizzy or ill after handling the pesticides, go immediately to a hospital emergency room or call the North Carolina Poison Control Center at 1-800-84-TOXIN (1-800-848-6946). If possible, copy down the name(s) of the pesticide(s) that you’ve been handling. It will greatly assist the physicians and Poison Control Center in helping you in this emergency. For more information about disposing of empty containers and unused pesticides, you can contact the Pesticide Section (http://ncagr.gov/SPCAP/pesticides/index.htm) of the North Carolina Department of Agriculture & Consumer Services (http://ncagr.gov) at 919-733-3556.

For More Information

For more information on disaster preparedness and recovery visit the NC Disaster Information Center (http://ncdisaster.com).

Prepared by Cooperative Extension Specialists at NC State University.

Publication date: June 11, 2014

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Handling and Cleaning up Damaged Pesticide Containers at Home Disaster Recovery

1. Keep children and pets away from the area.

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5. If you can’t dispose of damaged pesticide containers immediately, place them in a secure area where children, pets, and wild animals cannot reach them.

Remove pesticide-saturated clothing immediately. Shower or rinse contaminated areas of skin thoroughly.

Put on clean clothing.

For More Information

For more information on disaster preparedness and recovery visit the NC Disaster Information Center (http://ncdisaster.com).

Prepared by Cooperative Extension Specialists at NC State University.

Publication date: June 11, 2014

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Heat Stress Disorders Disaster Recovery

Heat and humidity can be dangerous, and many people cleaning up after a hurricane are not used to working outdoors. People need more water when doing physical labor; however, water may be in short supply or not available. Air conditioning may not be available. Shade may be scarce because trees are down and roofs are damaged. People need to be aware of the risks of heat stroke.

Heat disorders generally are caused by the body’s inability to shed excess heat. The body is cooled by losing heat through the skin and by perspiration. When heat gain exceeds the amount the body can remove, the body’s inner temperature begins to rise, and heat-related illness may develop.

Heat disorders share one common feature: the individual has been overexposed to heat, or overexercised for his age and physical condition on a hot day. The severity of heat disorders tends to increase with age; heat cramps in a 17-year-old may be heat exhaustion in someone 40 and heat stroke in a person over 60.

Sunburn can significantly retard the skin’s ability to shed excess heat. Elderly people, young children, invalids, people on certain medications or drugs, and people with weight and alcohol problems are particularly susceptible to heat reactions.

Heat Disorder Symptoms

Sunburn—Redness and pain. In severe cases, swelling of skin, blisters, fever, headaches.

Heat cramps—Painful spasms, usually muscles of legs, and possibly abdomen. Heavy sweating.

Heat exhaustion—Heavy sweating, weakness, skin cold, pale and clammy. Pulse thready. Normal temperature possible. Fainting and vomiting.

Heat stroke (or sunstroke)—High body temperature (106°F or higher). Hot dry skin. Rapid and strong pulse. Possible loss of consciousness.

Safety Tips

Slow down. Schedule strenuous work for the coolest time of day. Individuals at risk should stay in the coolest available place, not necessarily indoors.

Dress lightly. Lightweight, light-colored clothing reflects heat and sunlight and helps your body maintain normal temperatures. However, dress for safety if using tools or removing heavy debris; wear close-fitting clothing and shoes to prevent injury.

https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/heat-stress-disorders 1/3 9/8/2017 Heat Stress Disorders | NC State Extension Publications

Eat lightly. Foods like proteins increase metabolism and also increase body heat and water loss.

Drink water. The body needs water to keep cool. People should drink plenty of fluids even if they aren’t thirsty.

NOTE: Persons who have epilepsy, heart, kidney, or liver disease, are on fluid-restricted diets, or have a problem with fluid retention should consult a physician if possible before increasing fluid consumption.

Do not drink alcoholic beverages.

Do not take salt tablets without a doctor’s permission. People on salt-restrictive diets should consult a physician before increasing their salt intake.

Certain medications increase heat and ultraviolet sensitivity, so people should ask a doctor or pharmacist about current medications.

Spend time in air-conditioned places. Spending some time each day in an air-conditioned environment will give some protection. This is especially important for the elderly.

Don’t get too much sun. Sunburn makes reducing body temperature more difficult.

First Aid

Sunburn—Apply ointments for sunburns if blisters appear and do not break. If breaking occurs, apply dry sterile dressing. Serious cases should be seen by a physician.

Heat Cramps—Firm pressure on cramping muscles or gentle massage will help relieve spasms. Give sips of water. If nausea occurs, discontinue water.

Heat Exhaustion—Get the victim out of the sun. Lay down and loosen clothing. Apply cool, wet cloths. Fan or move victim to air-conditioned room, if possible. Give sips of water. If nausea occurs, discontinue water. If vomiting continues, seek immediate medical attention.

Heat Stroke—Move the victim to a cooler environment. Reduce body temperature with a cold bath or sponging. Use extreme caution. Remove clothing, use fans and air conditioners. If body temperature rises again, repeat the process. Do not give fluids. Heat stroke is a severe medical emergency. Summon emergency medical assistance or get the victim to a hospital immediately. Delay can be fatal.

For More Information

For more information on disaster preparedness and recovery visit the NC Disaster Information Center (http://ncdisaster.com).

Adapted by Extension Specialists, North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service, from University of Florida/Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences' Disaster Handbook.

https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/heat-stress-disorders 2/3 9/8/2017 Heat Stress Disorders | NC State Extension Publications

Publication date: June 11, 2014

This publication printed on: Sept. 08, 2017 URL of this page (http://content.ces.ncsu.edu/heat-stress-disorders)

https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/heat-stress-disorders 3/3 9/8/2017 Heat Stress Disorders | NC State Extension Publications

Heat Stress Disorders Disaster Recovery

Heat Disorder Symptoms

Sunburn—Redness and pain. In severe cases, swelling of skin, blisters, fever, headaches.

Heat cramps—Painful spasms, usually muscles of legs, and possibly abdomen. Heavy sweating.

Heat exhaustion—Heavy sweating, weakness, skin cold, pale and clammy. Pulse thready. Normal temperature possible. Fainting and vomiting.

Heat stroke (or sunstroke)—High body temperature (106°F or higher). Hot dry skin. Rapid and strong pulse. Possible loss of consciousness.

Safety Tips

Slow down. Schedule strenuous work for the coolest time of day. Individuals at risk should stay in the coolest available place, not necessarily indoors.

https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/heat-stress-disorders 1/3 9/8/2017 Heat Stress Disorders | NC State Extension Publications

Eat lightly. Foods like proteins increase metabolism and also increase body heat and water loss.

Drink water. The body needs water to keep cool. People should drink plenty of fluids even if they aren’t thirsty.

Do not drink alcoholic beverages.

Do not take salt tablets without a doctor’s permission. People on salt-restrictive diets should consult a physician before increasing their salt intake.

Certain medications increase heat and ultraviolet sensitivity, so people should ask a doctor or pharmacist about current medications.

Spend time in air-conditioned places. Spending some time each day in an air-conditioned environment will give some protection. This is especially important for the elderly.

Don’t get too much sun. Sunburn makes reducing body temperature more difficult.

First Aid

Sunburn—Apply ointments for sunburns if blisters appear and do not break. If breaking occurs, apply dry sterile dressing. Serious cases should be seen by a physician.

Heat Cramps—Firm pressure on cramping muscles or gentle massage will help relieve spasms. Give sips of water. If nausea occurs, discontinue water.

For More Information

For more information on disaster preparedness and recovery visit the NC Disaster Information Center (http://ncdisaster.com).

Adapted by Extension Specialists, North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service, from University of Florida/Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences' Disaster Handbook.

https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/heat-stress-disorders 2/3 9/8/2017 Heat Stress Disorders | NC State Extension Publications

Publication date: June 11, 2014

This publication printed on: Sept. 08, 2017 URL of this page (http://content.ces.ncsu.edu/heat-stress-disorders)

https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/heat-stress-disorders 3/3 9/8/2017 How to Salvage Flood-Damaged Appliances | NC State Extension Publications

How to Salvage Flood- Damaged Appliances Disaster Recovery Equipment and Appliances: Repair or Replace?

Deciding to repair or replace gas and electrical appliances damaged by dirty floodwaters can be a difficult decision. Deciding to salvage or replace damaged equipment will be influenced by the length of time in the water, the level of the flooding and the amount of coverage allowed by the insurance and flood-relief programs.

Some things you need to consider are:

Warranty -- Repairing the equipment or appliance may void the warranty.

Reliability -- Dirty floodwater can cause parts to corrode, causing break downs.

Age of the equipment/appliance -- New equipment/appliances offer better energy efficiency, thus saving money on monthly energy costs.

Insurance coverage -- Allowances offered by the insurance adjuster.

Safety -- Corrosion or clogged parts not replaced can cause fire, explosion or electrical shock.

Cost -- Extensive repairs for parts and labor may cost more than buying new.

IMPORTANT!!!

Any work done on electric or gas appliances and equipment should be done by a qualified, licensed contractor, not by a do-it-yourselfer, no matter how skilled.

Equipment

Have a professional check for signs that the oil tank moved. Even buried ones can float when flooded.

Have a professional check metal or brick chimney for cracks, dirt, debris and leaks. These problems can cause fires or carbon monoxide poisoning when the furnace is turned on.

Manufacturers usually recommend that all motors, electrical components, safety controls and (for gas equipment) gas valves be replaced.

Controls on water heaters, furnaces, boilers, room heaters and conditioners will become clogged when flooded in contaminated water.

https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/how-to-salvage-flood-damaged-appliances 1/5 9/8/2017 How to Salvage Flood-Damaged Appliances | NC State Extension Publications

Defective gas or oil control devices can cause a fire, flashback or explosion.

Defective controls on electrical equipment can cause a powerful shock, causing injury or death.

Flooded water heaters (gas and electric) should be replaced.

Any HVAC duct insulation that was in contact with floodwaters should be replaced.

Ductwork with wet insulation should be taken apart, cleaned, dried and disinfected.

Any HVAC ductwork in the crawl space of a flooded home should be replaced.

Split system heat pumps should be replaced if one or both of units moved with the flood.

Appliances

Call an appliance technician to check your appliances.

Manufacturers usually recommend that all motors, electrical components, safety controls, and (for gas appliances) gas valves be replaced.

Refrigerators and freezers with wet insulation cannot be salvaged.

If there were only a few inches of water in the house, refrigerators and freezers are probably fine.

Ovens and ranges are usually salvageable. Wet controls should be replaced.

Have an appliance technician check and replace the pilot orifice and any valves on gas ranges that were in contact with floodwaters.

Have an appliance technician or electrician check all electrical contacts and connections on the washer and dryer and replace if wet.

Call the customer service of the manufacturer who is on your major appliance (many 800 numbers below). They can give you advice or possibly financial help before you attempt to plug in the appliance.

Make the decision on replacing or repairing based on what feels right to you. Your safety and your life may depend on it.

The Gas Appliance Manufacturers Association recommends that all flood-damaged plumbing, heating, cooling and electrical appliances and related systems should be replaced rather than repaired. It also strongly recommends that all work on flooded equipment be done by a qualified, licensed contractor.

Customer Service Numbers for Most Manufacturers

https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/how-to-salvage-flood-damaged-appliances 2/5 9/8/2017 How to Salvage Flood-Damaged Appliances | NC State Extension Publications

Appliances

Amana 866-616-2664 Bosch 800-944-2904 Creda 800-800-2733 Dacor 800-793-0093 Five Star 800-553-7704 Franklin 877-261-9867 Frigidaire 800-374-4432 Gaggenau 877-424-3628 GE 800-626-2005 GE Monogram 800-444-1845 Hamilton Beach 800-851-8900 Hotpoint (GE) 800-626-2005 In-Sink-Erator 800-558-5700 JennAir 800-536-6247 Kenmore 800-469-4663 KitchenAid 800-334-6889 LG 800-243-0000 Magic Chef 800-688-1120 Maytag 866-616-2601 Panasonic 800-211-7262 RCA 877-794-7977 Sears 800-469-4663 Sharp Microwave 800-237-4277 Subzero 800-222-7820 Tappan (see Frigidaire) Thermador 800-656-9226 Viking 888-845-4641 Whirlpool 866-698-2538

Electronics

DIRECTV 800-494-4388 or TTY 800-779-4388 GE 800-447-1700 Hitachi 800-448-2244 JVC 800-252-5722 Mitsubishi 800-332-2119 Pioneer 800-421-1404 RCA 877-794-7977 Sony 800-222-7669 Toshiba 800-631-3811 Zenith 877-993-6484

https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/how-to-salvage-flood-damaged-appliances 3/5 9/8/2017 How to Salvage Flood-Damaged Appliances | NC State Extension Publications

Additional Information

How to Salvage Flood-Damaged Appliances, Agricultural Experiment Station and Cooperative Extension Service, Kansas State University.

Safety Issues, Cleaning and Restoration of Flood Damaged Retail Food Facilities, Orange County Health Care Agency, Orange County Environmental Health.

Experts Warn that Flood-Damaged Appliances Should Be Replaced (http://www.truetechhomeservice.com/webapp/p/89/flood)

Retrofitting Flooded Homes (http://www.homeenergy.org/show/article/nav/rehab/page/3/id/1104), Home Energy Magazine.

Repairing Your Flooded Home, (http://www.redcross.org/images/MEDIA_CustomProductCatalog/m4540081_repairingFloodedHome.pdf) American Red Cross, FEMA.

All flooded gas plumbing, heating, cooling equipment, and electrical appliances should be replaced rather than repaired.

For More Information

For more information on disaster preparedness and recovery visit the NC Disaster Information Center (http://ncdisaster.com).

Written by: Wilma S. Hammett, PhD, Professor Emeritus, NC State University from How to Salvage Flood-Damaged Appliances, Agricultral Experiment Station and Cooperative Extension Service, Kansas State University.

Publication date: June 5, 2014

This publication printed on: Sept. 08, 2017 URL of this page (http://content.ces.ncsu.edu/how-to-salvage-flood-damaged-appliances)

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