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Issue №14 Est. 1999 15 October – 15 November 2018

Head to Zaporizhia and be a Kozak for a day

Halloween will have you howling this October

Enjoy with a few helpful hints about where to go and what to do

Make a Pointe of Enjoying Autumn With US-based Complexions theatre and so much more…

Contents | Issue 14 15 October – 15 November 2018

Issue №14 Est. 1999 15 October – 15 November 2018

Head to Zaporizhia and be a Kozak for a day

Halloween will have you howling this October

Enjoy Kyiv with a few helpful hints about where to go and what to do

Make a Pointe of Enjoying Autumn With US-based Complexions theatre and so much more…

On the Cover US-based Complexions comes to Kyiv

Complexions’ Dwight Rhodan contemplates his choreography

4 WO Words from the Editor 22 What’s On Around Finding ones feet this season the Country II Kholodniy Yar is a spot in the 6 What’s New north-eastern Chyhyryn district Autocephaly still a buzz word, that deserves a day-trip two more candidates join the electoral race, more sanctions 24 What’s Important Lana’s pick this month please, and more… Sustainability takes top billing in many western countries, “It’s all good – pick it up and 8 What’s Abroad while lags behind. A weekend trip to Iran is easier Not everyone is so complacent don’t put it down until you’ve and as pleasant as ever however gone through cover to cover!” 10 What’s On Around the 26 What’s Happening Jared’s pick this month Country Turn autumn blues into an Zaporizhia hosted the Sich event-filled season with our list “With a list of achievements back in the 16th and 17th of fabulous outdoor and indoor centuries and is just as Kozak- activities too many to mention in like as ever these pages, Bohdan 28 What’s All the Fuss 12 What’s Important A collection of bits and bobs for Hawrylyshyn’s legacy lives Bohdan Hawrylyshyn was those on the run a visionary in basic human on thanks in part to the values. His children now carry 32 What’s On the Menu foundation set up in his and the torch with the foundation Two great new restaurants – named after him and a gala Turkish Pasha and Italian Il his family’s name. As such, you can take part in Ricco will keep any appetite the Bohdan Hawrylyshyn sated, while a new coffeeshop 14 What’s On this Month and bakery make it easy to Family Foundation plans All you need to know, broken enjoy a break any morning! to celebrate not just the man down by category, about what you need to see and do in Kyiv 38 What’s in Focus but the mark he has made on for the next 30 days, including Photo coverage of events from Ukraine in November” the best events for Halloween! around Kyiv in the last month. Did we catch you? 20 What’s Ahead Complexions modern ballet theatre comes to Kyiv: we talk to Dwight Rhoden to find out more. Plus a few top events to put in your calendar

The Team: Contact details: Registration information: © All materials published in What’s On Kyiv Originally founded in 1999, What’s On Kyiv business community, both expatriate and Lana Nicole Niland Tyoma Myronenko For general enquiries, submissions, What’s On Kyiv magazine is registered with are the unconditional intellectual property is an English language monthly magazine local, and provides brief news articles on Paul Niland Anna Romanchuk complaints, or comments write to the Ministry of Justice of Ukraine as a print of Outpost Publishing and as such are with a goal to inform residents and visitors events of relevance to Kyiv and Ukraine and Jared Morgan Igor Hodokov [email protected] media magazine, License Number 22834 protected by Ukrainian and international to Kyiv of events in the entertainment and the wider region. Lee Reaney Andrew Burns To advertise in What’s On Kyiv, contact – 12734P dated 7 August 2107. This mag- copyright laws. No materials from this cultural life of the city. As well as providing Alina Smolina DoubleK LLC Team [email protected] azine is published by Outpost Publishing, a magazine, or the associated website, advice, guidance, and listings of live mu- Anna Azarova Lera Zdanovych company duly incorporated in Ukraine. may be reproduced without the express sic, theatre, nightlife, sporting events and Natalia Kurtyak permission of Outpost Publishing. more, What’s On also interacts with the Nina Bohush Serzh Velychanskyi Sam Kearley 3 From the Editor

Editor-in-Chief Lana Nicole Niland

I don’t get SAD (seasonal affective disorder – find ways to overcome it on pg 26 in this month’s issue, by the way) come the autumn months, but it’s only mid October and the season has already taken its toll. I am returning (again) to Kyiv after being away for weeks on end, hustling to ensure professional success in a variety of projects which require my feet on the ground. A phrase perhaps more ap- propriately used figuratively in my case. Before joining one of Kyiv’s longest-running English-language publications 10 years ago, my feet were previously found in a dance studio here in the Ukrainian capital, alongside some of the most talented dancers and musicians I have ever known. While my stage shoes have long since been put away, the experience, insight, and knowledge gleaned from that time is now being put to good use, working with groups of young Ukrainian dancers across Canada. Three and a half decades on in my dance career and it still fasci- nates me how much Ukraine and its culture have an effect outside its borders. Immigrants of four and five generations over in Aus- tralia, the UK, and across North America continue to share the love and affection found in the traditions of Ukraine, whether it be in the kitchen, in the fields, or indeed on the dancefloor. One great example of this is Lianna Makuch – a Ukrainian Canadian theatre writer/actor who has put pen to paper in her new play Blood of our Soil, the staged reading of which will take place this month (pg 28). “Three and a half decades As a hothouse for hosting small armies of international ensembles, US-based Complexions returns yet again (pg 21) before the close of on in my dance career the year. Dwight Rhoden, the group’s pioneering choreographer, says he thoroughly enjoys his time here, and while he doesn’t have and it still fascinates me a strict diet like his dancers do, he does have to be careful with the varenyky! how much Ukraine and Though I have only just touched back down in Kyiv following a taxing six weeks abroad, various outings to Zaporizhia (pg 10) or Kholodniy Yar (pg 22) perhaps are calling; and the direct flight to its culture have an effect Iran from the capital (pg 8) sounds like an incredible opportunity to unplug for a few days and find my footing once again. With outside its borders” so much on the go, however, none of the above are likely for me. But that shouldn’t stop you from enjoying the landscapes, adven- ture, and opportunities easily accessible around, and outside of, this beautiful country. Perhaps I shall take my own advice and as the cover states – ‘make a pointe of enjoying autumn’. There is a beauty and authenticity found in this time of year well worthy of those feet of mine even just hitting the pavement of Kyiv.

4 What’s On Issue 14 15 October - 15 November 2018

What’s New

The Presidential Field Widens In recent weeks, two more names have been added to the list of those vying for Ukraine’s top job. The number of can- didates stands now at 24, with a couple Sanctions, Yes Please more people still expected to put them- One of the best things to have happened, selves forward yet. The problem with for Ukraine, since Donald Trump be- such a large playing field is that votes are came President of the was New EBRD Strategy going to be very diluted. In Ukraine’s sys- the appointment of Ambassador Kurt tem, if no candidate gets more than 50% Volker as special envoy to this region with for Ukraine of the total vote in the first round, there’s The European Bank for Reconstruction the specific task of trying to bring peace a second round run-off between the two and Development has just revealed their to the Donbas. highest placed candidates from the first investment plans for Ukraine for the next Volker has been very active and taken vote, which means it can be a bit of a five years. The bank is already the larg- a principled approach to his job and… crap shoot. est financial investor in the country, with he knows his stuff. In a recent interview The two latest candidates are interest- some 14 billion USD at work across as with Germany’s DW channel, he said of ing. One nationally known name is An- many as 400 projects. Over the next five developments on his watch, “we’ve been driy Sadovy, the current Mayor of years, the bank has pledged to invest in much more clear in assigning ’s re- and leader of the Samopomich (Self promoting privatisation and commercial- sponsibility for this conflict, the way it ac- Reliance) party. People who are famil- isation in the public sector, promoting the tually is”, leaving the door open for more iar with his work in Lviv speak highly rule of law and fair competition in the sanctions to be imposed against Russia for of him, but questions still surround his private sector, strengthening energy se- their actions in and against Ukraine. seemingly bizarre ejection of well-liked curity, strengthening the banking sector, The fact is however that, so far, sanctions Sergiy Gusovsky (Gusovsky had led the and supporting greater integration with imposed on Russia by the US and the EU Samopomich faction in Kyiv’s city ad- the EU by supporting convergence with have not forced Vladimir Putin to change ministration). The second candidate is EU standards to help increase trade and his calculation on the cost/benefit of this Frenchman turned Ukrainian Michel investment flows. All that, is very good. war. We can hope that more sanctions Tereshchenko. Tereshchenko hails from a The privitisation thing is important be- would make Russia see their hold on the long line of distinguished figures in Kyiv. cause state owned enterprises are either, east just isn’t worth it. The reality is that He returned to the land of his ancestors a) a drain on public finances, b) poorly this is unlikely, as the thousands of Rus- over a decade ago and since becoming a managed and/or looted by friends of peo- sian casualties from this war haven’t been Ukrainian citizen has fought and won a ple in high places, or c) a + b combined. enough to get him to change tact so far. mayoral election in Khlukhiv in eastern The rule of law is also something that Regardless, yes, more sanctions would be Ukraine. needs to be strengthened; well, it needs very welcome. And appropriate. to become a base expectation really. With neighbours like Russia, energy security is a particularly important focus, but not just because of that. Energy security in the modern world often means switching to renewable energy supplies and making energy efficiencies, both are good not just for Ukraine but for the world. The banking sector has had a major shake up in the last few years, where a third of the country’s banks have been closed having failed stress (or basic decen- cy) tests. Continuing to help this sector develop now is very wise and will provide a lot more security for Ukrainian depos- itors. And with regard to boosting trade between Ukraine and nicer neighbours, the good thing is that the trajectory is al- ready right and growth in this regard has been significant since the UA-EU AA and , Not Happy, Again are rejoicing and singing halleluiah because of the recognition of Ukraine’s the DCFTA deals came into force. Now it own brand of orthodoxy as a separate and independent church. The decision, made by can only get better. the Constantinople Patriarchate, has angered Moscow who wanted religious ties between It’s nice for Ukraine to be sitting on the the two countries and churches to stay just as they were for reasons too long to go into but doorstep of a market of relatively wealthy include the ability to continue to exert influence over Ukraine and Ukrainians, often (yup, nations and having access to that market via the church) for nefarious reasons. is a great benefit (but nobody told the Spitting their dummy out of the pram at the very thought of this independence (there’s a Brexiteers). wider metaphor there, obviously), Moscow warned previously that in case Ukraine’s auto- cephaly was recognised, Russia would cut ties with Constantinople. Now that the decision has been announced, which, for some believers corrects a 400-year-old historic anomaly, we wait with bated breath (not really) to see what Moscow’s reaction will be.

6 What’s On Issue 14 15 October - 15 November 2018

What’s Abroad

Alyona Nevmerzhytska Young Meets Old in Iran “WELCOME TO IRAN! WELCOME TO MY COUNTRY!” THIS IS WHAT TOURISTS HEAR WHEN TAKING A VACATION IN IRAN. AND YOU CAN TOO ON WHAT IS A QUICK AND EASY TRIP FROM KYIV THIS AUTUMN

Iranians, who are part of an 81 mil- from Kashan and deserves a visit. Isfahan Head towards the bazaar for entertainment. lion-strong country with almost 75 per- is famed for the second largest square in There is one in every city and is the perfect cent of the population under 35, are ex- the world – Naqsh-e Jahan, and is listed as place to get a sense of the local atmosphere tremely hospitable and open-minded. As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, along and lifestyle: buy spices, handmade carpets, one of the youngest nations in the world, with 18 other Iranian attractions. Then tablecloths, and so much more. One of the English-speaking locals are eager to help there’s Yazd, a very charismatic city with calling cards of Iran is their Persian carpets. tourists explore Iran, and expect nothing nice mosques and a fire temple where Zo- Multicoloured, in all sizes, simple or with in- in return. roastrians practice their religion. tricate patterns like a kaleidoscope – they’re Shiraz, a city in south-central Iran, re- iconic, but not cheap. A mid-size silk carpet BEAUTIFUL CITIES quires several days to explore. There you can cost up to 2 000 euro. I have been wanting to visit Iran for some will find the picturesque mirror mosque I highly recommend you stay in traditional time, and earlier this year I made it hap- Shah Cheragh and Nasir al-Mulk mosque Iranian houses. These options are easily pen. My trip started in Tehran, the coun- famous for its coloured glass façade. The found on www.snapptrip.com, where a ty’s capital city. Home to more than 15 most ancient sight in Iran is Persepolis, just message via Whatsapp will get you easy ac- million people with a wealth of cultural 60 kilometers from Shiraz. commodation. These are renovated mer- attractions, it features royal complex- Maharloo Lake, a salt lake 27 kilometers chant houses with beautiful gardens where es which impress with mirror mosaics southeast of Shiraz, will amaze you with guests can relax and enjoy a cup of tea. and chandeliers, paintings, and tilework. its incredible rose-pink water. And, by the way, Iranians love their tea – Attractions outside of Tehran abound. they carry thermoses in their cars, to the Skiing is available even HELPFUL TIPS store, and are always ready to welcome you on the Tochal mountain, a part of the Al- Major Iranian cities are connected by in- with a cup. burz mountain range, just 18 kilometers ternal flights and quick and easy trips on The country is also rich in dried fruits and north of the city centre. For more adven- comfortable buses. Tourists can take a nuts – pistachios, almonds, hazelnuts, and turous souls, there’s sandboarding, which plane from Shiraz back to Tehran, where cashews. In addition, their local dishes – can be done in the Varzaneh Desert, locat- a one-way ticket costs about 50 euros, and featuring lentil soup and mutton kebab, ed in the heart of the country, between the doesn’t need to be purchased in advance. lamb and camel meat – are delicious. It is cities of Isfahan and Yazd. Within the cities, tourists can use yellow typical to eat outdoors and not unusual for Further out, look to Kashan, some 200 taxi cabs, or download the Snapp app, passersby to be invited to join! kilometers from the capital. It’s known a local analogue to Uber, which is quite A trip to Iran is an opportunity to better un- for traditional Iranian merchant houses. cost-effective. derstand a long-past ancient culture. More- Locals produce rose water which they add The Iranian currency is known as the rial. over, Iranians use the Persian calendar, and to tea and traditional dishes. Abyaneh vil- The exchange rate is different across the as the current year is 1396, a trip to Iran is lage also known as red village, is not far country however and increases towards the literally like traveling back in time! south so just beware. However, hotels and some local markets will accept euros and dollars.

It’s easy to get to Iran – UIA offers daily direct flights to Tehran, where a roundtrip ticket costs approximately 7 000 UAH.

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21, Sahaidachnoho Str. Tel.: +38 067 326 81 86 What’s On Around the Country

No Place Like Zaporizhia on Ukrainian Kozaks Day autorLee Reaney

LOOKING FOR A UNIQUE WAY TO CELEBRATE THE DAY OF UKRAINIAN KOZAKS THIS YEAR? WHY NOT HEAD TO WHERE IT ALL BEGAN – ZAPORIZHIA more recently, the date now marks the Day of Defenders of Ukraine, to include all forces that defend the nation. Zaporizhia has a host of tourism options Of course, Kozaks can be considered related to the famed defenders of the the first ‘defenders of Ukraine’. They Ukrainian homeland, with none more are known for their talent on horseback, impressive than the Zaporizhian Sich – a savagery on the battlefield, and fierce reconstructed Kozak fort. With museums, commitment to independence. They are horse shows, Kozak games and shows, remembered as much for their uncouth were made, the military barracks for a and even a Kozak training camp, there is demeanour and partying as they are for glimpse of Kozak warfare, or the pub for simply no better way to mark the holiday battling against all their bordering na- a taste of Kozak mead. Special activities, than a visit back in time to the heartland tions. In fact, much of the modern-day shows, and workshops are also offered, so of Ukrainian Kozaks. enmity between Ukrainians and Russians, there’s sure to be something for everyone! Turks, and Poles can be dated back to the 12 – 24 UAH 14 OCTOBER battles of the Zaporizhian Kozaks. en..city/locations/ The date of 14 October is special in istoriko-kulturnyy-kompleks-zaporozh- Ukraine. For centuries, it has marked THE SICH skaya-sech the religious holiday of the Intercession The Zaporizhian Sich Historical and of the Theotokos, a feast celebrating the Cultural Complex is one of Ukraine’s THE MUSEUM Virgin Mary. In fact, you can still find must-visit tourist sites – there is simply no With more than 32 000 exhibits in the an icon showing Mary protecting famed better place to be on the Day of Ukrain- more than 1 600 square metres of the Ukrainian Kozak Bohdan Khmelnytskyi ian Kozaks than Zaporizhian Sich. Built Zaporizhian Cossacks Museum, it’s safe at the National Art Museum. Soviet athe- just 14 years ago, the complex allows you to say that this is the pre-eminent muse- ism attempted to replace it with Defend- to reflect on how Kozaks lived their every- um on Kozaks in the world. A must-stop er of the Fatherland Day. But following day lives. You can explore the church, a for any history buff, they’ll be able to an- independence, Ukraine changed the hol- Hetman’s house, and the school. Stop by swer any question you may have about iday to Day of Ukrainian Kozaks. Even the blacksmith’s shop to see how tools the lives of Kozaks and this important

10 What’s On Issue 14 15 October - 15 November 2018 time in Ukrainian history. In addition to ongoing archeological digs, the museum features three permanent exhibits: the Military Council of the Sich, the Liber- ation of Zaporizhia, and the Battle of Prince Svyatoslav. Spoiler alert! Located not far away is the stone pillar that marks the probable place of his murder! 20 UAH en.zaporizhzhia.city/locations/ muzey-istorii *Note: There may be schedule interruptions due to renovations.

THE THEATRES The Zaporizhian Kozaks were famed for their talents on horseback and mod- ern-day Kozaks continue that tradition in a wonderful horse theatre that is sure The name Zaporizhia directly translates as ‘beyond the rapids’ and the to knock your socks off at the Kozatsky Rapid City: fast-flowing River. The Dnipro Hydroelectric Plant is one of the city’s most iconic Zagoda Zaporizhia Horse Theatre & symbols. Ethnographic Complex. The valiant Gogol’s famed story of depicts the life and times of Zapor- stuntmen perform death-defying tricks Kozak-ollywood: izhian Kozaks. Since first being made into film in 1909, five other adaptations have been while riding at full-speed in what is sure made, including Russia’s 2009 version partly filmed in Zaporizhia, and the classic 1962 to be one of Ukraine’s most unforgettable Hollywood version starring Tony Curtis and Yul Brynner. cultural experiences. Watch riders stand Ukraine’s most famous Kozaks are Bohdan Khmelnytskyi and Ivan on horses, swoop down to pick up items Show Me the Money: Mazepa, who feature on the five and ten UAH bills (and soon coins), respectively. from the ground, and do plenty of oth- The most famous painting of Kozaks er awe-inspiring tricks. Don’t forget your Ukrainian Kozaks Ain’t Nothing to F*** With: is Ilya Repin’s Reply of the Zaporizhian Kozaks. It depicts a group of Kozaks revelling in camera – these will be some of your fa- drafting the lewdest and most offensive reply to the Ottoman Sultan that they could muster. vourite photos from your time anywhere If you’re lucky, you’ll be able to catch a performance of some in Ukraine! The Voice – Kozak-Style: traditional Kozak songs. Usually about a Kozak’s relations with a girl, these songs have been 50 – 100 UAH recognised by UNESCO as being of “intangible cultural heritage” to the world. zp-kazaki.com

The Zaporizhzhia Spas Theatre of Ko- BECOME A KOZAK! EXPLORE ZAPORIZHIA zak Battle is also something to see – stop If learning about Kozaks is not enough Of course, there is plenty more to see and by to catch some wildly entertaining Ko- for you. Perhaps a day of learning about do in Zaporizhia than just Kozak-related zak theatre, feast on hearty Kozak cuisine, these wild Ukrainian ancestors has you fun. From touring one of Ukraine’s ma- or try your hand at any number of Kozak thirsting for more? No worries – Zapor- jor vodka factories (Khortytsa) to strolling activities. Visitors can learn Kozak mar- izhia has you covered! This two-day through the Khortytsa National Reserve; tial arts and acrobatics, work with Kozak excursion comes complete with Kozak from the wonderful views of the Dnipro weapons such as sabres and spears, learn initiation rituals, martial arts training, a Hydroelectric Station to the Soviet-era how the Kozaks danced, or even get on a Kozak feast, an overnight “close to the technology of the Zaporizhia Nuclear horseback and explore the area much like life of a Kozak”, and even gives you your Power Plant; from the lively Soborna our ancestors did 300 years ago! own Kozak name. Tours are available in Prospekt to the romantic ‘lovers clock’ on Contact for details English too, so make this Day of Ukraini- Shevchenko Boulevard – you’re sure to spas.zp.ua/theatre an Kozaks one to remember by becoming fall in love with one of Ukraine’s undis- an honourary Kozak! covered gems when you visit Zaporizhia. 2 000 UAH en.zaporizhzhia.city en.discover-zp.com.ua/things-to-do/ ty-kazak

11 What’s Important

The Thinker Jared Morgan

UKRAINIAN TIES RUN DEEP, AND Active up until his death just days after his DESPITE LEAVING HIS HOMELAND AT 90th birthday in October 2016, Bohdan THE AGE OF 20, BOHDAN HAWRYLYSHYN WAS Hawrylyshyn has ensured his outstanding ALWAYS THINKING OF HOME. AN ALMOST LATTER DAY JOHN MAYNARD achievements and legacy will resonate in KEYNES FIGURE, HE WOULD RISE TO PROMINENCE AND BECOME KNOWN Ukraine and beyond from now and well AS A CANADIAN AND SWISS ECONOMIST, THINKER, BENEFACTOR, AND into the future. It is a legacy that will be cel- ADVISOR TO GOVERNMENTS AND LARGE COMPANIES WORLDWIDE ebrated in Kyiv next month. BEFORE RETURNING HOME TO IMPART HIS WISDOM, KNOWLEDGE, AND EXPERIENCE ON A FRESHLY-MINTED INDEPENDENT UKRAINE LEAVING HIS MARK His focus was clear, to educate new genera- tions of active Ukrainians interested in public CHARTING A FUTURE DIRECTION activity and participation of local young affairs in a still fledgling, sometimes faltering According to the foundation’s charter, it is people in community development with democracy. It is a programme he spearhead- focused on “professional patriotic Ukrain- an aim to develop practical knowledge and ed that is devoted to helping Ukraine become ians who are concerned about the public competencies such as project management a truly European democracy. good, participate actively in political and and resource management, civil and politi- Did Hawrylyshyn imagine when he left public life, can cooperate with others, and cal education, strategic planning, and com- Ukraine just what an illustrious career he form a critical mass of people capable of munications. would have and how he would influence transforming Ukraine in the future”. Hawrylyshyn’s legacy is assured and will economic and political processes world- In late 2012, the foundation launched a be further cemented in Ukrainian minds wide? The answer is possibly not, yet the long-term programme dubbed “The Young in November with the first charitable gala wealth of experience he gained away from Generation Will Change Ukraine”. Nat- dinner and silent auction of the Bohdan socialism (communism is the ultimate stage urally, the concept makes sense: educated Hawrylyshyn Family Foundation. of socialism, one which Soviet politicians and active young people can solve problems never claimed to have reached, even though besetting the country and undertake the THE EVENT that was the goal) meant that’s what hap- task of making Ukraine a truly European The gala evening will bring together na- pened. society, characterised by political freedom, tional and international leaders and per- During WWII he ended up in Germany, transparency and efficiency, with a high lev- sonalities from the corporate, diplomatic, after which he emigrated to Canada. From el of economic wellbeing and social justice. and cultural spheres, friends and support- 1968 to 1986, he lived and worked in Ge- Since it’s been established, participants and ers of Hawrylyshyn and his family. The neva, where he chaired the alumni of the programme have set up an event will be held in the presence of Haw- International Management Institute (IMI), association which consists of more than 600 rylshyn’s wife of 66 years Leonida, and his received a doctorate in economics from young people who work in the Verkhovna children and founders of BHFF Christine the University of Geneva, and later be- Rada, ministries, city councils and adminis- Batruch-Hawrylyshyn, Patricia Schmorhun came a fully-fledged member of the Club trations, manage grand-scale social projects Hawrylyshyn, and Leslie Hawrylyshyn. of Rome. Home beckoned in 1988 as the or go on to develop their own businesses. The programme includes a cocktail with began unravelling. Creating members of the honourary committee, an IMI in Kyiv which he chaired, he also OTHER INITIATIVES silent and live auctions, a dinner prepared chaired the International Centre for Polit- Over time the foundation’s focus has broad- by gastronomic maestros, a fashion show of ical Studies. The move proved prophetic: ened. “Ukrainian Youth Delegates to the bags by designer Alina Kachorovska, and upon Ukrainian independence in 1991 he UN” is a programme that enables official musical entertainment. was ready to further share his knowledge representation of Ukrainian youth with the and philanthropy with his home country, Ukrainian delegation at the UN General FIRST CHARITABLE GALA DINNER especially in light of difficult political and Assembly, as well as implement projects for AND SILENT AUCTION OF THE economic situations. Hawrylyshyn acted as Ukrainian youth throughout the year. The BOHDAN HAWRYLYSHYN FAMILY an advisor to first Le- programme was founded in October 2014 FOUNDATION onid Kravchuk, and also advised four suc- and the first Ukrainian youth delegates took ¾ cessive chairmen of the part in the 69th session of the UN General 14 November at 18.00 and three prime ministers. Assembly. Lavra Art Gallery (Lavrska 1) To impart knowledge on future genera- While there is a definite ‘think globally’ 5 000 UAH – can be purchased directly tions, in 2010, Hawrylyshyn set up the focus to the foundation’s work, ‘act locally’ from the website of the Bohdan Hawrylyshyn charitable organisation - the Bohdan Haw- is a concept that does not get neglected. Family Foundation: goo.gl/tXjdqv or rylyshyn Foundation. This has evolved into Through local development projects, train- at goo.gl/Pu2gL1 the Bohdan Hawrylyshyn Family Founda- ing and educational courses are held across black tie or tion (BHFF). regional Ukraine, designed to improve the fb.com/events/546756452461359

12 What’s On Issue 14 15 October - 15 November 2018 JCI Gold Seal of Approval® — first in Ukraine! Live Music | 15 October – 15 November 2018

Coolio (US, rap, hip-hop) The Hardkiss (pop-rock) Seafret (UK, indie, pop-rock) 16 October at 20.00 19 October at 19.00 1 November at 19.00 Carribean Club (Semena Petliury 4) Palace of Sports (Sportyvna 1) Atlas (Sichovykh Striltsiv 37-41) 690 UAH 650 UAH 499 UAH concert.ua/uk/event/coolio kiev.karabas.com/thehardkiss-kyiv Atlas37

Slaves (UK, punk) Dakooka (indie pop) Kodaline (IRL, rock) 17 October at 20.00 29 October at 20.00 4 November at 19.00 Atlas (Sichovykh Striltsiv 37-41) MonteRay Live Stage (Prorizna 8) Bel Etage (Shota Rustaveli 16A) 890 UAH 250 UAH 1 090 UAH Atlas37 monteray.kiev.ua concert.ua/en/event/kodaline

Kovacs (NL, jazz, soul) Oleg Vynnuk (pop) 23 October at 19.00 7 November at 20.00 International Centre of Culture and Arts Palace of Sports (Sportyvna 1) (Nebesnoi Sotni 1) 650 UAH 650 UAH kontramarka.ua concert.ua/en/event/kovacs Tequilajazzz (RU, experimental Olya Polyakova (pop) rock, alternative ) 26 October at 19.00 8 November at 19.00 Palace of Sports (Sportyvna 1) Atlas (Sichovykh Striltsiv 37-41) 390 UAH 450 UAH THREE DAYS GRACE concert.ua/en/event/olja-poljakova Atlas37 (CA, alternative, post-grunge) 26 October at 20.00 Epolets (alternative rock) The Jozzers (post punk) Stereo Plaza (Lobanovskogo 119) 27 October at 19.00 9 November at 20.00 Have you missed the raw power of guitar Atlas (Sichovykh Striltsiv 37-41) Mezzanine (Nizhneyurkovskaya 31) solos? Waiting for a spiritual injection to riffs 300 UAH 130 UAH and vocals? Wild Canadian hard rockers, Atlas37 mezzaninekyiv Three Days Grace are coming to Kyiv with their new album Outsider! Be one of the Kurgan & Agregat (rap, hip-hop) Shortparis (RU, experimental pop) first to go on to experience the new album. 28 October at 19.00 10 November at 20.00 Great memories of previous hits are guar- Atlas (Sichovykh Striltsiv 37-41) Zhytnii Rynok (Verhnii Val16) anteed along with introducing fans to new 200 UAH 350 UAH material. Their last time in Kyiv, at Atlas Atlas37 concert.ua/shortparis Weekend 2017, they wowed crowds who screamed in admiration every time they ut- Blooms Corda (jazz, funk, indie) tered a word in Ukrainian. Now it’s time to 28 October at 19.00 repeat the experience. Pechersk (Moskovska 3) 950 UAH 200 UAH stereoplaza concert.ua/uk/event/blooms-corda

STING & (UK, rock, reggae) DAKHABRAKHA 14 November at 20.00 Palace of Sports (Sportyvna 1) (folk and theatre) “Never before did reggae and rock sound so 10 November at 20.00 good”: that’s the verdict of Spanish portal Palace Ukraine (V Vasylkivska 103) Vanitatis El Confidencial about this new hit Maybe they are among the most popular collaboration between Sting and Shaggy. Don’t Ukrainian musicians globally. Their per- Make Me Wait instantly shot to number one on formances are sell-outs across Europe and the Billboard charts, becoming a dedication America. Their songs have been used as to the culture of the Caribbean islands. The part of the soundtrack for the TV series name of the album is the telephone code of Fargo and others. The name DakhaBra- Britain – 44 (Sting’s birthplace) and 876 is the kha is original, outstanding, and authen- code of Jamaica, where Shaggy was born. tic at the same time, which means “give/ This November, the opportunity to hear them take” in the old . Cre- live in Kyiv is real – come hear tracks from ated in 2004 at the Dakh theatre, their the new album 44/876 and the greatest hits as shows always feature spectacular visual solo artists Shape of My Heart, Englishman in New effects. Bringing the thrill of Ukraini- York, Mr Boombastic, Every Breath You Take, Angel, an folk to the hearts and consciousness and more. of younger Ukrainian generations, get 1 790 UAH your tickets today. kiev.karabas.com/en/sting 950 UAH kiev.karabas.com/dahabraha

14 What’s On Issue 14 15 October - 15 November 2018 Festivals/Sport/ Cinema | 15 October – 15 November 2018

Dynamo Kyiv – Europa League Arsenal Kyiv – 25 October at 22:00 at Rennes 8 November at 19:55 vs. Rennes 21 October at 14:00 at FC Lviv 13 December at 19:55 vs. Jablonec 27 October at 17:00 vs. Shakhtar Olympic Stadium (V Vasylkivska 55) 3 November at 14:00 at FC 150 – 4 050 UAH 10 November at TBD vs. FC Oleksandriya Dynamo Kyiv – Lobanovsky Dynamo Stadium (Hrushevskoho 3) Ukrainian Premier League 20 – 40 UAH DYNAMO KYIV 20 October at 17:00 at Vorskla arsenal-kyiv.com IN EUROPA LEAGUE ACTION 27 October at 17:00 vs. FC Lviv It’s been a tough go of it so far for our 3 November at 17:00 at Shakhtar Donetsk Kyiv Basket – Ukrainian SuperLeague beloved boys in blue and white. Dynamo 10 November at TBD vs. FC Mariupol 18 October at Khimik tossed valuable group stage points away Olympic Stadium (V Vasylkivska 55) 20 October at Odesa by allowing last gasp goals to both As- 20 – 50 UAH 24 October at Politekhnik tana (Kazakhstan) and Jablonec (Czech 26 October at Dnipro Dynamo Kyiv – 1 November at Republic) in the opening two games of 31 October at TBD at FC Mynai Group K action. The team will look to 8 November at 19:00 vs. Khimik Olympic Stadium (V Vasylkivska 55) 10 November at 19:00 vs. Odesa turn things around with a home-and- fcdynamo.kiev.ua away set with Rennes (France) on 25 Oc- Meridian Sports Complex (Heroes of Sevastopol tober and 8 November. Midfielder Viktor Ukrainian National Football Team 11b)/Palace of Sports (Sportyvna Pl 1) Tyshankov has been a rare pleasant pres- – Nations League TBD ence in the early going, netting goals in 16 October at 21:45 vs. Czech Republic kyiv-basket.com.ua both encounters. Dynamo currently sits Metalist Stadium in in third in the four-team group, with four 50 – 800 UAH games still to play. ffu.ua

NEW GERMAN CINEMA FESTIVAL In original language with Ukrainian subtitles 18 October at 19.00 – Transit 19 October at 19.00 – Donbas ZooBonusFEST-2018 20 October at 19.00 – Der Junge Karl Marx Pets, Friends, Love 21 October at 19.00 – Volcano 26-27 October at 10.00 22 October at 19.00 – 3 Tage in Quiberon UBI Conference Hall (Dorohozhytska 8) 23 October at 19.00 – Der Hauptmann 30 – 50 UAH 24 October at 19.00 – Casting fest.zoobonus.ua Kiyv Kino (V. Vasylkivska 19) 70 UAH VapeReality FEST PHOTO KYIV FAIR 2018 | 2ND kievkino.com.ua Scientific achievements, innovation, and EDITION progress 1-4 November at 12.00-20.00 Funny Girl 27 October at 11.00 Thurs-Sat, until 18.00 Sun Funny Girl follows Brice, who rose from Kyiv Expo Centre (Akademika Hlushkova 1) Chicago Central House (Antonovycha 44) the Lower East Side of New York to be- 145 – 450 UAH For four days, Ukraine’s capital will play come one of Broadway’s biggest stars kiev.karabas.com host to the international fair that will under producer Florenz Ziegfield. While bring together big-name photographers, she was cheered onstage as a great come- Kraina Mriy (The Land of Dreams) art-curators, and gallery owners from all dian, offstage she faced a doomed- rela Festival over the world. The venue space of 2 500 tionship with the man she loved. Featuring Oleh Skrypka square metres will accommodate more 27 October at 15.00 1 November at 19.00 than 500 world-class photos. Attendees Multiplex Lavina Mall (Berkovetska 6d) Column Hall of Kyiv City State will enjoy artworks by well-known Masao 190 UAH Administration (Khreshchatyk 36) Yamamoto, who helped the global com- multiplex.ua 350 UAH munity rediscover treasures of Eastern kiev.karabas.com philosophy, and Michael Kenna, a highly Venom influential minimalistic landscape pho- 10-31 October at 15.00 IX Kyiv International Blues Festival tographer. Photos by these masters can Zhovten (Kostyantynivska 26) A record number of performers from six also be purchased. In addition, Photo 70-110 UAH countries Kyiv Fair will offer education panels fea- zhovten-kino.kiev.ua 10 November at 18.30 turing experts from Ukraine, Switzerland, Cinema House (Saksahanskoho 6) France, and the Netherlands. It is a land- Bohemian Rhapsody 250 – 600 UAH mark event you must not miss! 3-11 November marcoconcert.com 100 – 200 UAH, free for people with Zhovten (Kostyantynivska 26) specific needs, ATO veterans, children 90-110 UAH under 12 zhovten-kino.kiev.ua photokyiv.com

15 Nightlife | 15 October – 15 November 2018

The Jimi Hendrix Experience French.: Archie Hamilton tribute concert (UK, FUSE London) 21 October at 21.00 26 October at 22.00 Docker-G pub (Naberezhno-Khreshchatytska 5/13) River Port (Nyzhniy Val 67) FREE 400 UAH dockersabc qualitymusicua

20ft Live: Margenrot, KP Vystavka Techno Transmission 27 October at 23.00 23 October at 21.00 Ukraine Expocentre (Hlushkova 1) Closer (Nizhnoiurkivska 31) 200 UAH 150 UAH concert.ua OFENBACH (FR) closerkiev 2 November at 21.00 Buddha-Bar (Khreshchatyk 14) For the first time in Kyiv, come the two ACID 3.0 BY SALATPARTY responsible for the popular club hit Be 23 October at 23.00 Mine. Their true popularity came after re- Atlas (Sichovykh Striltsiv 37-41) mixes for Bob Sinclair, Hyphen Hyphen, For all who joining this party for the and James Bay. And after the release of first time: Acid is an explosion! Hal - their own tracks Around The Fire and loween is close: it’s a fairytale and a You Do not Know Me, they began col- masquerade, it’s an idea and a story, laborating with such well-known artists as it’s your crime and punishment. This Robin Schulz and Tiesto. Be Mine, how- is the third party of its kind – come, ever, is their goldmine: it immediately hit join, be merry. the top of the charts throughout Europe, 250 UAH while the clip to this track has captured atlas37 more than 100 million views on YouTube. Hurry and grab tickets – they are limited. 499 UAH buddhabar.com.ua Halloween 2018 – Sign of Samhain Closer: Halloween 26 October at 21.00 3 November at 23.55 Volume club (Harmatna 26/2) Closer (Nizhnoiurkivska 31) Closer 5-Year Anniversary: Day 1 50-100 UAH TBA with Residents AtriusConcertAgency closerkiev 19 October at 23.55 CLOSER (Nizhnyurkivska 31) Closer: Eris Drew b2b Octo Octa Dazed One-Year Anniversary! Free 26 October at 23.55 9 November at 23.45 closerkiev Closer (Nyzhnoyurkivska 31) Otel’ (Nizhnoiurkivska 31) TBA 250 UAH Oh My Bass! closerkiev concert.ua 19 October at 23.00 Bel etage (Shota Rustaveli 16A) 199 UAH concert.ua HALLOWEEN PARTY FEAT MOUNT Contrast: Intro KIMBIE DJ-SET, THE BUG & MISS RED 19 October at 23.00 2 November at 22.00 Kpoint place (Hlybochytska 72) Film Studio (Secret Place) FREE Ready for the craziest night of the year ?! kpointplace Halloween is already close. Collect your friends and go in search of the craziest Closer 5 Years Anniversary: holiday costume! After all, this is the only Day 2 with Andrés but mandatory condition to get into this 20 October at 23.55 party! They have already taken care of Closer (Nizhnoiurkivska 31) everything else. A special guest is the great Free and terrible The Bug: the British electro closerkiev dude and star of the cult label Ninja Tune. The Bug will perform live along with the Mambo Dance Class – bold and attractive Miss Red, known for 10th Anniversary! working with Mark Pritchard, Andy Stott, 20 October at 22.00 and Evian Christ. Professional Dance Studio (Tel’mana 1/32) 450 UAH 300-350 UAH www.concert.ua mambo.kiev.ua

16 What’s On Issue 14 15 October - 15 November 2018 What’s On This Month

Lera Zdanevych Bewitching!

THAT SPOOKIEST OF CELEBRATIONS – HALLOWEEN – IS FAST APPROACHING

Despite Halloween not being a typical HALLOWEEN AT LYSA HORA HALLOWEEN AT BULGAKOV’S Ukrainian celebration, the march of Metro Kontraktova Square MUSEUM commercialism has seen it gain a foot- 31 October at 19.00 Andriivsky Descent 13 hold, and many themed events now occur Lysa Hora is one of the most mysterious 29, 30, 31 October at 20.00 in Kyiv. It is perhaps a surprise it took so places in Kyiv. There are many legends Are you brave enough to discover all the long because Kyiv is known for many leg- and stories about local witches and evil secrets of Bulgakov’s house? This is your endary tales that centre on the black arts. spirits frequenting here. On Halloween chance to visit the Great Ball on the dark- For example, there are 13 Bald Mounts night you can almost feel it. A special fes- est night of the year. It features a theat- here — places, where witches allegedly tive show, divinations, and magic potions rical promenade in the legendary house, met and made their pacts with darkness. will all collide to make All Saints Eve a interesting stories from mysterious novels, The most famous include Castle Mount memorable one. Visit the Mermaid’s a jazz-performance, and masquerade overlooking Andriivsky Descent and Vir- Grove and climb Lysa Hora to take in the ball. There is a dress code: cocktail, black gin Mount at Vydubuchi. Virgin Mount is views of the Andriivsky district and great and silver for women and black and white even identified by the Vatican as a place panoramas of the night city. for men. affected by malevolent forces! It’s impos- 250 UAH 400 UAH sible to not apply this celebration dedicat- ed to ignore the dead, including saints or VOLAND’S BALL HALLOWEEN HORROR NIGHT 2018 hallows, martyrs, and all the faithful de- Desyatynna 12 Bingo (Peremohy 112) parted here. That’s just the religious take, 31 October at 20.00 27 October at 17.00 otherwise the event continues to take on Have you read The Master and Margari- This is the biggest rock celebration of the guise of a more and more commercial ta? If so, welcome to Voland’s Ball! This Halloween: some 13 hours of live rock and secular celebration which seems to be costumed party features photo-zones, and electronic music. Aggressive alter- the case in Kyiv. bars, lounge zones and other surprises — native rock from Respect Your Mom, At a loss for what to do this All Saints’ maybe, if Bulgakov wrote his novel in the punks Komissiya, mystic trip-hop from Eve? Read on. 21th century, Satan’s party would have Shadazz, wild energy from Osnova, and looked a little like this. Will you tempt garage psychedelic performed by Slow evil attending a dark séance or watch a Action will electrify audiences. There will hedonistic and sinful ballet? Or dance at also be a costume competition and festive a DJ-led pagan sabbath until sunup? It’s fair. Grab your Jack-O-Lantern and plan your choice. to be there from the gloaming until the 700 UAH first light. 200 UAH

All Invited Except for Vampires Let’s not follow the stereotype that Halloween is a time for vampires – but…donors! Blood donation is among the most noble service we can engage in: this small activity can save the lives of thousands. The American Chamber of Commerce in Ukraine with the sup- port by Sayenko Kharenko Law Firm in partnership with DonorUA and Park Inn by Radisson Kyiv Troyitska Hotel is proud to continue its initiative to celebrate Halloween by donating blood to Kyiv hospitals. This Halloween, gather your friends, families, and colleagues in the trendy Park Inn Hotel in the very centre of the city on 31 of October from 09.00 to 13.00. Snacks, treats, a photo zone and even an award for the best team result will be waiting! You can – and should – use the QR code for registration.

17 Theatre & Classical Music | 15 October – 15 November 2018

Jazz Night Odesa-Mom Train Volodymyr Solyanyk, A popular performance makes a stop in Kyiv 11 WARRIORS, 18 October at 19.00 26 October at 19.00 JACKIE CHAN THEATRE House of Actor (Yaroslaviv Val 7) House of Officers (M Hrushevskoho 30/1) (CA, Kungfu + dance) 100 – 200 UAH 300 – 840 UAH 11 November at 19.00 kiev.karabas.com parter.ua October Palace (Nebesnoi Sotni 1) Set up by the world-famous actor and Ukrainian Choir A Masked Ball, opera by Verdi master of Kungfu, Jackie Chan’s Dragon (North America) Joint Ukrainian-Italian project Theatre will demonstrate a truly oriental In programme: Ukrainian Folk and 31 October at 19.00 story 11 Warriors. Fantastic choreogra- Author’s Songs National Opera of Ukraine (Volodymyrska 50) phy combined with martial arts makes 23 October at 19.00 50 – 600 UAH for a stunning show that reveals an au- National Philharmonic of Ukraine opera.com.ua thentic Chinese genre. Incredible stunts, (Volodymyrskiy Descent 2) breath-taking acrobatics, bewitching cos- 70 – 250 UAH Duel tumes, and powerful music intertwine in filarmonia.com.ua Foresight Dance Theatre an intriguing plot that will keep you on 31 October at 19.00 the edge of your seat. Freedom Event Hall (Kyrylivska 134) 300 – 1 490 UAH 450 – 800 UAH concert.ua freedomhall.com.ua QuarTete-a-Tete. Two for the See- saw. Con tutti instrumenti Kyiv Modern Ballet 8 November at 19.00 Kyiv Theatre of Opera & Ballet for Children & Youth (Mezhyhirska 2) CHILDREN OF THE NIGHT 2: 50 – 500 UAH MIDDAY DREAM kmbtheatre (international, ballet) 19, 20 October at 19.00 EASY-PEASY, CITIZEN POET FlamencoLive. Romeo and Juliet National Opera of Ukraine (Volodymyrska 50) (RU, satirical poems) Spanish National Dance Theatre Following its successful premiere in March, 30 October at 19.00 10 November at 19.00 the one-act ballet Children of the Night has October Palace (Nebesnoi Sotni 1) House of Officers (M Hrushevskoho 30/1) acquired its long-awaited sequel. Previous- Project Mr. Good continues its Citizen Poet 100 – 850 UAH ly, human fears, doubts, and temptations initiative launched back in 2011 and first kiev.karabas.com could not defeat Androgyne and separate broadcast on TV (Rain), a Russian his/her male and female elements: two independent cable channel. The project halves overcame all obstacles to form a criticises contemporary Russian society whole. The story continues as Midday and fearlessly and ruthlessly mocks Krem- Dream with Seer appearing on stage. lin authorities in witty rhyme inspired by Both God and Demon, he is afraid that 19th century classics and recited by legend- Androgyne could plant seeds of hope into ary film and stage actor Mikhail Yefremov. people’s souls to make them content and Both projects were successfully presented strong. To learn what happens next, en- in many cities of Europe, the Middle East, joy the performance staged by Alexander and the US. Easy-Peasy, a new programme, Abdukarimov, Staatsballett Berlin dancers, is a kind of a press conference focusing on especially for Ukrainian ballet stars. today’s challenges and issues. 100 – 2 500 UAH VASYL POPADIUK AND THE PAPA 390 – 4 290 UAH opera.com.ua DUKE BAND parter.ua (UA, concert) 19 October at 19.00 She Loved Him Palace Ukraine (V Vasylkivska 103) Life lasting for two acts What Is It Women Keep Silent About? Touted as the Ukrainian Paganini, Live 23, 24 October at 19.00 An English detective story Nerve, and Golden Violin, this virtuoso Academic Drama Theatre on Podil 1 November at 19.00 has won hearts all over the world includ- (Andriivskyi Descent 20B) Kyiv Conservatory ing famous musicians such as Don Was, 150 – 550 UAH (Arkhitektora Horodetskoho 1-3/11) Tom Cochrane, Ian Gillan, and Jesse theatreonpodol.com 130 – 590 UAH Cook. Thanks to his mastery of 15 instru- parter.ua ments, he performs in front of sold out Elysée Quartet (FR) audiences everywhere he travels. Born in In the programme: Gounod,Rach- Albion, Kyiv Chamber Orchestra Lviv, he now lives in Canada yet often vis- maninoff, Debussy In the programme: Purcell, Elgar, Bridge, its Ukraine to treat his countryfolk to an 25 October at 19.00 Britten original blend of classical, Slavic, gypsy, National Philharmonic of Ukraine 3 November at 18.00 folk, pop, and jazz music garnished with (Volodymyrskiy Descent 2) St Katherine’s Church (Liuteranska 22) his own personal flair. 70 – 300 UAH 99 – 249 UAH 200 – 2 000 UAH filarmonia.com.ua kiev.karabas.com karabas.com

18 What’s On Issue 14 15 October - 15 November 2018 Art & Family | 15 October – 15 November 2018

Princess-Frog The Wizard of Oz Puppet theatre performance Theatre performance for children 21 October at 13.00 3 November at 12.00 Kyiv Academic Puppet Theatre Lesia Ukrainka National Academic Theatre (Nebesnoi Sotni 1A) of Russian Drama (B Khmelnytskoho 5) akadempuppet.kiev.ua 20 UAH rusdram.com.ua Magic Lamp of Aladdin Puppet theatre performance At the Lukomorye 28 October at 17.00 Interactive show for kids Kyiv Academic Puppet Theatre 20 October at 12.00 (Nebesnoi Sotni 1A) New Ukrainian Theatre (Mykhailivska 24) 80 – 150 UAH 100 UAH akadempuppet.kiev.ua nut.kiev.ua

Alice and a Fantastic Trip Chemical Show Entertaining show for kids Interactive show for kids 10 November at 17.00 27 October at 13.00 Kyiv Planetarium (V Vasylkivska 57/3) Creative Association 1000letie THE STOLEN PRINCESS 200 UAH (Hryhorenka 26A) (theatre performance for kids and planet.org.ua 150 UAH adults) 1000letie.com.ua 28 October at 12.00 Palats Kultury KPI (Peremohy Ave 37) FANTASTIC WORLD OF THE LITTLE PRINCE After the Ukrainian cartoon The Stolen (musical instrument show for kids and adults) Princess was released and was a huge suc- 31 October at 18.30 cess, the companies FILM.UA Group and Kyiv Planetarium (V Vasylkivska 57/3) Magic Box decided to stage the perfor- An incredible journey through a fantastic world awaits this autumn. mance. It will be great entertainment for It is a chance to delve into the world created by Antoine de Saint-Ex- kids and perhaps a return to a more carefree upery. This concert-show represents an opportunity to interpret the time for the adults. In addition, the cast will allegorical meaning of the philosophical tale about the titular The pleasantly surprise you! The marvelous stag- Little Prince. The show is going to be an instructive experience for ing will transport you into a new world and your kids since eternal values are revealed here. Deep thoughts de- make you feel a part of it, while the fairytale clared by famous Ukrainian announcer Dmytro Khorkin, accom- atmosphere offers something for everyone. panied by Revenko Band, and followed by amazing visual effects So don’t miss it! will allow you to be fully immersed in this wonderful atmosphere. 150 UAH 200 UAH ckm.kpi.ua planet.org.ua

KURBAS. NEW WORLDS POSTTRAUMATIC (HERBARIUM) Exhibition dedicated to the work Exhibition of works by Maria of Les Kurbas Proshkowska 17 October – 2 December 1 October – 20 October Mystetskyi Arsenal (Lavrska 10-12) Shcherbenko Art Centre (Mykhaykivska 22v) 30-60 UAH This exhibition touches a topic that is artarsenal.in.ua tragic for Ukraine as well as for other IDENTITY, INTERRUPTED neighbouring countries – Chernobyl. The Exhibition of works by FREEDOM VS. EMPIRE exhibition consists of a herbarium made Ola Rondiak Exhibition dedicated to the French of plants collected from the village of Stra- 8 November – 9 December Revolution kholissya, an area polluted by the disaster Ivan Honchar Museum (Lavrska 19) 8 September – 4 November in 1986. The population of the village was This exhibition presents a series of col- Khanenko Art Museum (Tereshchenkivska 15) not evacuated. Therefore, it is not sur- lage made of newspapers and magazines 6-50 UAH prising that one of the main topics of the that covered the events of the Revolution khanenkomuseum.kiev.ua exhibition is the relationship of Dignity. The entire exhibition is a story between people and the about how the Ukrainian identity of an NOT FOR PUBLICATION: environment, which is in artist, formed in the US, was under threat TOP SECRET AND PRIVATE a traumatic condition. in the 1990s when Ola moved to Ukraine. Exhibition of works by Kinder Restoration after the The artist found that identity again, how- Album destruction is the cen- ever, during the revolution period of 11 October – 11 November tral theme of ​​the expo. . These events became a Voloshyn Gallery (Tereshchenkivska 13) In addition, you will be powerful impetus that directed Ukrainian Free able to see photos and vide- society towards a democratic future, re- voloshyngallery.art os taken at the centre of events. sulting in some amazing art pieces. Free 30 UAH shcherbenkoartcentre.com honchar.org.ua

19 What’s Ahead

JAMALA (ELECTRO-POP, SOUL) NEW WINTER SHOW FROM 23 November at 19.00 THE CREATORS OF “WARDS OF Bel Etage (Shota Rustaveli 16a) DREAMS” She’s back with some new material after Winter show for kids her win at Eurovision 2016. It was then that 15 December at 12.00 Jamala’s incredible jazz vocals and her fam- Expocenter of Ukraine (Hlushkova 1) ily’s story brought musical glory to Ukraine. Winter is coming…so start preparing! Following the short hiatus, the artist is pre- Company Starlight Entertainment, the senting 10 new independent ‘stories’, on LOMACHENKO LOOKS TO UNIFY creator of shows Wards of Dreams and new album Wings, which is scheduled for LIGHTWEIGHT TITLES House of Mysterious Adventures, pre- release 12 October. This new compilation 8 December at 3:00am (UA time) sents a new winter show for the whole promises some new and interesting ar- Madison Square Garden (New York City, US) family. It promises a story about the rangements – from simple electropop to Ukraine’s Vasyl Lomachenko (11-1, 9 most important of life values: family, traditional soul with a number of instru- KOs) will look to take Jose Pedraza’s love, and care. Be the first to see mir - ments thrown into the mix. Not your typical WBO title when the two square off at acles turn into reality and feel the New pop-artist: after almost 10 years in the biz, Madison Square Gardens on 8 Decem- Year spirit. she continues to change her style with each ber. A superstar in this country for well 209 UAH new release. This concert kicks off a larger over a decade, Ukraine’s two-time Olym- www.expocenter.com.ua nationwide tour – don’t miss it! pic champion has taken the rest of the 500 UAH. boxing world by storm. The WBA and concert.ua/uk/event/jamala Ring Magazine lightweight champion has blazed a record-setting path on his AM I JAZZ? TOTAL RELAUNCH way to becoming the world’s top pound- Festival (international) 24 November for-pound boxer and the sport’s top TV 16-18 November at 20.00 M17 Contemporary Art Centre draw. After putting together an amazing Art Club Closer (Nizhnioyurkivska 31b) (Antonovycha 102-104) 896-1 record as an amateur, ‘Loma’ has Kyiv’s best underground club will be After almost a year on pause, the M17 set records for fewest fights to win a world a venue for the third festival of jazz Contemporary Art Centre welcomes one title (3), fewest fights to win titles in two di- and jazz inspired music. The line-up and all and they’re doing it with a bang. visions (7), and in three divisions (12). The includes representatives of a new gen- The art space has changed its concept and southpaw has knocked out his last eight eration of musicians, as well as living direction of development, where the main opponents, including an unprecedented legends, whose stories remain relevant goals are to popularise Ukrainian art, pro- four straight who quit on their stools. He even today. The programme features vide more artistic educational programs, claimed his lightweight crowns in May by Alfa Mist (UK) who blends melancholic and to support artictic experimentation. defeating Jorge Linares by TKO in the jazz with alternative hip-hop tunes, the The first project is an avant-garde exhibi- 10th round, despite having separated his Matthew Shipp Trio (US), plus leading tion, where the works of some of Ukraine’s shoulder earlier in the fight. One of the avant-garde jazz pianist Steven Feifke most prominent artists will be presented. biggest fights of 2018 will be shown in along with Dennis Adu and their Jaz- Make sure you take it in next month. primetime on ESPN. zworkshop Orchestra (US-UA), and Free TBA finally the David Liebman – Marc Cop- m17.kiev.ua lomachenko.com land Duo (US) who performed on stage and entered recording studios alongside iconic Miles Davis, Chick Corea, and John Abercrombie. Be quick to secure a ticket! 470 – 1 350 UAH closer.jazz

ONUKA (POP, ELECTRO-POP) 7 December at 20.00 Stereoplaza (Lobanovskoho 119) Onuka presents her latest work Mozaïka, which is much more than a music album — it’s an interactive project, where mu- 100TH ANNIVERSARY OF UKRAINE’S soloists, including Borys Lyatoshynsky, sic, video, photos, and messages form a NATIONAL SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA Levko Revutsky, Valentyn Sylvestrov, My- whole, each track carrying a conceptual 28 November at 19.00 roslav Skoryk, and Yevhen Stankovych. message. Not long ago, her project pre- Palace Ukraine (V Vasylkivska 103) Over the past 25 years, the orchestra has sented a video for the song Strum, which One of the most famous ensembles in recorded more than 100 CDs featuring raises the global problem of omnipresent Eastern Europe, Ukraine’s National national and international compositions refuse created by humans. All funds from Symphony Orchestra was founded back and successfully toured around the globe views on YouTube are forwarded to the in 1918, according to the Decree of the from Australia to , Bahrain to Ja- social project “Ukraine without Trash”, Council of Ministers approved by Het- pan, Canada to . Come and enjoy so, Onuka is so much more than just man Pavlo Skoropadsky. It has always an evening of good music! about music. been and remains a creative laboratory 50 – 700 UAH 600 UAH for Ukrainian composers, conductors and www.palace-ukraine.com stereoplaza

20 What’s On Issue 14 15 October - 15 November 2018 What’s Ahead

Complicacy… Anna Azarova What was the easiest/hardest thing Complicity… about creating this show? When we are on tour, apart from the bal- let, we bring along the props. Some stages are not adjusted for our props, and we Complexions have to find quick solutions. What is your diet? STAR DUST IS A NEW AND BOLD ballets or modern dance. We don’t intend I have to be careful with varenyky, be- EXPERIMENT SET TO SONGS BY to stick to one style only, we just do what cause I gained weight while eating them BRITISH ROCK ICON DAVID BOWIE we like without focusing on one direction. in Ukraine the last time (laughing). Un- like dancers, I don’t need to adhere to a A huge success in New York, Star Dust fea- Desmond Richardson is fairly well- strict diet. However, it is important for me tures the talents of the US-based Com- known in his sphere – he landed a to move a lot and drink enough water. plexions Contemporary Ballet formed prominent role in High Strung Free. by pioneering choreographer Dwight Tell us about that. What would you like to tell WO Rhoden and prominent dancer Desmond Desmond has experience in shooting and readers? Richardson. Director of the world-famous participating in shows. Any dance experi- Do not be afraid of doing what you like The Great Gatsby, Rhoden brings a fresh ence is useful, and filming can teach you and never doubt yourself! vision to action and picture, while Rich- a lot. ardson is praised for his expressive style You began dancing at 17 and went Star Dust: Complexions and brilliant technique. What’s On talks to on to do great things. How is it that (US, contemporary dance) Rhoden to find out more about the- cut starting so late in your dance career ¾ 25 November at 19:00 ting-edge production and inspiring chore- allowed you to accomplish so much? October Palace (Nebesnoi Sotni 1) ography enhanced with immortal hits like Yes, it was late and no one, not even my 350 – 2 250 UAH Space Oddity and Rock N ‘Roll Suicide. relatives, really believed in me. Neverthe- icca.kiev.ua less, I did not listen to anyone, I practiced Why the name – Complexions? a lot and, as a result, now I do what I love. Different people are involved in making It is great that my choreography resonates our ballet and we’ve created a platform with people. where they can explore their unique abili- ties. Together we add something new to a classical form of dance and what we get is “The visual component of called Complexions.

How many dancers do you have Bowie’s creative potential and where do they all come from? There are 21 main dancers. Most are is impressive. For me, he from the US, but we also have people from Japan, Australia, and Korea. Each is like a chameleon, a man dancer has studied in a ballet school and devoted their life to ballet, and each is a who has and implements unique personality with exceptional qual- ities. Together we make a big single unit. so many ideas”

What is the main difference -be What is it about David Bowie that tween traditional ballet and the inspired you to stage this perfor- Complexions style? mance? We have long gone beyond boundaries I grew up listening to his songs; he was of classical ballet; this, it is a fundamen- always around. The visual component of tal our choreography is based upon. We Bowie’s creative potential is impressive. still dance wearing pointe shoes, which For me, he is like a chameleon, a man aren’t traditionally used in contemporary who has and implements so many ideas. I dance. Moreover, we combine ballet with want my dance to express my admiration hip-hop, which is not inherent in classical for him and for what he did.

21 What’s On Around the Country II

EVEN FOR THOSE WHO LOVE place where hetmans of Ukrainian Ko- EVERYTHING ABOUT BUSY KYIV zak states sanctified knives while uprising CITY LIFE, TAKING A BREAK against foreign oppressors, today it is the AND VISITING OTHER PARTS OF perfect place to stop and have a break. City UKRAINE CAN BRING A MUCH- Nearby, on a beautiful and scenic mead- NEEDED CHANGE. THE AMAZING ow surrounded by forest is the Holy Trin- NATURAL SCENERY COMBINED ity Motronynske Convent, another site of WITH THE OPPORTUNITY TO historical significance and architectural Break LEARN MORE ABOUT UKRAINIAN importance. Open to visitors; it is a great HISTORY AT KHOLODNIY YAR IS A source for history buffs who want to learn Dino Zulumovic NO BRAINER more about Ukrainian history. Next to the convent is a large ancient settlement of Only two hours away from Kyiv, the moun- Scythian tribes, nowadays the most im- tainous terrain of Kholodniy Yar is deeply portant archaeological site in Europe for authentic; whether you’re an adventur- exploring this famous pre-Slavic nomad er, history lover or obsessed with nature, people. Ukraine’s “Cold Ravine” has plenty to offer. RICH HISTORY On the way up, an impressive range of HISTORY RELIVED TAKE IT IN the remnants of different epochs, cultures, At the very end of the excursion, near There are many different trails to explore and events are widespread throughout the village of Buda, another outstanding the uniqueness, but the best way to cover Kholodniy Yar. It occupies a primary place site is waiting to be seen. The millennium all the highlights, including memorial and in Ukraine with numerous unique archae- oak: this is more than 1 000-year old and historical sites as well as natural marvels, is ological, cultural, historical, and valuable one of the oldest trees in Europe it stands by following the main road starting from the natural sites. It has played host to several on the slope of the Kyrykivsky ravine. Its village of Melniki and heading up to the vil- major historical events – among them the breath-taking appearance brings to mind lage of Buda. On this trip, wheels beat feet first Ukrainian Kozak state lead by Ukrain- the Ents, the talking trees from the movie so taking bicycles is more adventurous and ian Hetman Bohdan Khmelnitskyi, and spectacle Lord of the Rings. appealing compared to hiking. the Kholodnoyar republic, during the cha- Not far away from the oak is a com- In Melniki, like a ritual devoted to nature, otic final years of . The well- pound-like hotel, the only accommo- the flavoursome healthy water from one of known and indelible image of the Ukrain- dation in Kholodniy Yar. It offers local the many wells in this village should be tast- ian flag with the words “Free Ukraine or Ukrainian dishes sure to satisfy post-bike/ ed. Apparently, the water comes from one Death” and the phrase “Glory to Ukraine” hike appetites. For those who plan to stay of three underground lakes formed under were born in the ravines of Kholodniy Yar. more than one day, visiting the nearby the Kholodniy Yar due to volcanic activity This territory became one of the most pop- historical sites in the village of Subotiv two million years ago. ular Ukrainian landmarks, an essential spot or the district centre of Chyhyryn with From Melniki village through the main for reinventing Ukrainian national identi- its historical park and museum dedicated road, Kholodniy Yar offers outstanding and ty. This is explicitly expressed through the to Bohdan Khmelnitskyi, the founder of pristine nature composed of woodland with numbers of heritage sites memorialising the first Ukrainian state, is recommended. many gullies, ponds, water streams, and people and moments of these great histor- Or, you can simply relax in the surround- springs. Dense forest slopes interchange ical events. All of them are situated along ings of beautiful landscape which instant- with the picturesque meadows and creates the main road giving an opportunity for ly places you in a laid-back vibe, a feeling an astonishing and fascinating landscape visitors to feel the history of Kholodniy Yar. all too familiar once you indulge in the rare to find in the flat and steppe region of One of the most important sites on the nature of Kholodniy Yar. central Ukraine. road is Gaydamackiy Stav pond. Once a The rest we leave up to you to discover.

Kholodniy Yar is just a 275 km drive east from Kyiv and a great option for a weekend day-trip! photo courtesy of Historic Club Kholodniy Yar 22 What’s On Issue 14 15 October - 15 November 2018

What’s Important

KYIV-BASED COMPANIES, NON-PROFIT ORGANISATIONS, AND VOLUNTEERS INVEST A LOT OF EFFORT TO ENCOURAGE UKRAINIANS TO SORT WASTE AND CONSUME MORE RESPONSIBLY. DO WE REALLY HAVE TO BE REMINDED THAT PLASTIC KILLS THE Kyiv Gets PLANET? UNFORTUNATELY, YES…

Nina Bohush

While we are doing ourSustainable best to turn Kyiv RETHINKING CONSUMPTION Non-profit organisation ReThink as- into a genuinely European city, there are Wednesday 26 September was flowing pires to curb the consumption of plastic some areas where we need to pull up our as usual. After hours of writing, I left the bags in Ukraine. Recently the ReThink socks. Let’s talk responsible consumption. office for lunch somewhere downtown. team gathered more than 25 000 signa- In European countries, practices like When passing by Zoloti Vorota, I noticed tures under the All-Ukrainian petition waste sorting have become a daily routine a woman standing on a trash heap and #ПакетНеПотрібен (bags not needed). and there isn’t even room for discussion braiding her hair with plastic bags. It was Unfortunately, they haven’t received clear on this topic. Unfortunately, we can’t say a one-day anti plastic protest initiated by feedback from the government. So their the same about Kyiv, and indifference is Ukrainian artist Ani Zur. Through her proposed legislation still awaits adoption. not the only reason. actions, Zur was saying we should stop However, ReThink isn’t giving up and has As it turns out, people often don’t know using plastic bags in everyday life. continued launching educational projects about alternatives that can easily replace After a while, the braid that started with plastic bags and toiletries. Going forward, Zur’s hair reached the ground, but she it’s hard to get your garbage sorted if you continued to add more and more bags to don’t have special sorting bins on your it. So instead of my lunch, I got alterna- doorstep. However, underestimation of On average, Ukrainians tive food for thought. our impact on the planet is probably the On average, Ukrainians use around 500 main reason we keep collecting plastic plastic bags per year per person! Europe- use around 500 plastic bags and throwing plastic bottles to the an citizens try to keep this number under bins with organic waste. But how do we 90. Only 1% of all used plastic bags in bags per year per person break old habits and cut down on the the world are recycled. The other 99% amount of plastic in our lives? end up in garbage dumps. As a result, Conscientious Kyiv citizens are working they pollute the soil, and what’s worse, on projects that will help solve problems they kill more than 1 million birds every regarding waste sorting, recycling, and year mistaking plastic bags for food. urban sustainability. After being brought to fruition, their ideas offer eco-friendly solutions for a sustainable lifestyle.

24 What’s On Issue 14 15 October - 15 November 2018 like Trash Talks to decrease the number LET’S BE AWARE of plastic bags in our homes. The organi- With her recently released music video sation also supports anti-plastic initiatives Strum, Ukrainian singer Onuka brings like the one Zur held. up the issue of environmental pollution in a very artistic way. Directed by Alan Ba- SORTING OUT RIGHT doev the video was shoot in a dump, where If you have to throw away your plastic Nata Zhyzhchenko and young people bags, do it right: put all bags together and wearing cellophane outfits roamed amidst bring them to a sorting station. There’s heaps of garbage. The video reminds us plenty of them around Kyiv. In addition, that our irresponsible consumption and stations also accept plastic bottles, batter- mismanaged waste sorting will lead to ies, tetra pak bags, glass, paper, and other ecological calamity. inorganic waste. Before being brought to After the release, Onuka and the NoWas- the station however your garbage should teUkraine organisation started an en- be sorted at home. vironmental initiative #ECOSTRUM. To help people handle waste sorting with The initiative aspires to encourage local ease, Kyiv-based IT company MacPaw communities to sort waste and support created a free mobile app Сортуй (Sort the recycling market in Ukraine. All out). The app features useful tips on how profits of the video gained by YouTube to sort all types of garbage you might monetisation will be transferred to waste deal with. Batteries? Take them to the sorting stations in Ukraine. Which means “Екологічні ініціативи” (Ecological the more people who watch the video, the initiatives) station. Broken glass? Clean more money invested in new waste-sort- before throwing away. Coca-Cola cans? ing facilities. Crush before taking to the station. reusable bags all over Ukraine. One “re- “I can do the minimum, but I believe in The app also features a Kyiv map with bag” can replace up to 500 plastic bags. the maximum,” Onuka sings. Small steps different sorting stations marked. So it’s It’s quite easy to find more eco-friendly are better than none. Let’s remember this quite easy to find the nearest one and alternatives on Instagram. The Ukrain- when we decide to buy yet another plas- bring in your waste for recycling. ian online shop @Ozeroua sells zero tic bag and throw it in the bin along with waste goods like bamboo-made tooth- organic waste. ECO-FRIENDLY ALTERNATIVES brushes, eco bags also known as avos’ka, When ReThink started their and bamboo cups. You personally won’t #ПакетНеПотрібен campaign, people feel a big difference after changing over, Upgrade your home with began to ask if there were any alter- but the planet will. eco-friendly stuff at: natives to replacing plastic bags. The A responsible approach to consumption • @Rebag, @avoska_ua co-founder of ReThink Olena Koltyk is picking up steam even in fash- Handy eco bags for everyday says the supply of reusable bags was ion. Although mass-mar- shopping really limited. This is why Koltyk and ket and synthetical • @Ozeroua, @zerowaste_ua her colleagues started exploring foreign fabrics are living Bamboo ear-buds, toothbrushes, experiences and discovered a quality their glory days, and cups prototype of reusable bags in a Europe- sustainable • @RawFlaw an supermarket. ReThink brought the brands are al- Washable and reusable stylish idea to Ukraine and put it into produc- ways warmly bags tion. After a few pilot versions ReThink welcomed and launched the brand ReBag that now sells even hyped. Follow #plasticfree, #sustainable, In 2011, Kse- and #zerowaste to find more - al nia and Anton ternatives and initiatives to support Schnaider intro- sustainable consumption duced the Ukrainian brand of sustainable clothes Ksenia Schnaider. The brand reuses vintage cloth- Support #ECOSTRUM ing to create modern denim by sharing Onuka’s Strum bottoms and jackets. For ex- video on Facebook: ample, to make one pair of jeans, the designers rework and tailor three pairs of old ones. Today, Ksenia Schnaid- er is the only brand in Eastern Europe that stands for sustain- able consumption, and, of course, it isn’t going unnoticed. World-famous singer Dua Lipa and American model Bella Hadid have already added Ksenia Schnaider to their list of favourites labels.

25 What’s Happening

Autumn’s of Anna Romanchuk Rule FOR MANY, AUTUMN IS A TIME WHEN SEASONAL AFFECTIVE DISORDER (SAD) REARS ITS HEAD. BUT NOT FOR WHAT’S ON! AND NOT FOR YOU ONCE YOU TAKE A PEEK AT ALL YOU CAN GET INVOLVED IN THIS SEASON

If you have to be a bear and hibernate under the covers in the comfort of home we’ve got a few activities to keep you intel- 3 ADVENTURES TO ENJOY lectually stimulated. On the other hand, Kyiv plays host to a number of super Drohobych events you may want to take in before you Some time ago it was a centre for oil pro- withdraw for the winter. And they say the duction, with nearly 13 000 oil extraction best things come in 3. points in the region, Regardless, it is one of the most beautiful small cities in west- ern Ukraine.

Sofiivka Park (Uman) 3 PLACES TO GO Autumn is the per- This national arboretum was built by Count Pototsky for his love. Beautiful at The new Vsi.Svoi décor store any time of the year, but especially in the Khreshchatyk 34 fect time to find a fall – there is no reason for you not to visit. All shelves and racks of the new Vsi.Svoi “Dim ta Décor” are already stocked with Ostrog new hobby, make a goods and waiting to spread a little more One of the oldest cities in Ukraine: from warmth and comfort in your home. the 14th century it was the residence of vsi.svoi.store.34 new acquaintance, Prince Ostrozky, and therefore is home to many stories and secrets. or (finally!) head Kurazh Bazar – Flashback 90s Hlushkova 1 20-21 October to another city you This is the birthday of the Kurazh Ba- zar with throwback nostalgia including have long wanted everything from Tamagochis, to Tetris, to Love Is gum, and you are most welcome. It is the perfect way to spend the day with friends. to visit. Yes, it is kurazhbazar

that simple! Jamala’s new album concert Bel etage Shota Rustaveli 16a 23 November She inspires and fascinates. After a grand solo concert in 2017, Jamala returns with her new album Wings. concert.ua/en/event/jamalaamala

26 What’s On Issue 14 15 October - 15 November 2018 The best antidepressant for SAD is inspiration: 3 BOOKS ABOUT AUTUMN: inspire, create, look Blackberry Wine by Joanne Harris (novel) for something new! 3 BEST NEW TV-SERIES TO WATCH Any book by Joanne Harris can be read throughout these cooler seasons: they are This is Us incredibly atmospheric, cosy, warm, and A heartwarming and emotional story light. about a unique set of triplets, their strug- gles, and their wonderful parents. Nomi- Tales of the Old by Max Frei nated for an Emmy Award in 2018, this se- (fantasy) 3 NEW MOVIES TO SEE ries will quickly win you over, we promise. What could be more magical and atmos- pheric than old Europe in the fall? Written A Star Is Born (US) Big Little Lies by an author from Odesa, this book is made Directed by and starring Bradley Cooper The apparently perfect lives of three to inspire and dispel bad autumn moods. alongside pop diva Lady Gaga, this tells mothers of first graders unravel to the the story of a musician who helps his point of murder. Exciting and with an in- The Master of Petersburg by Joan young singer and actress find fame, even teresting end, we’ll also see Meryl Streep Maxwell Coetzee (fiction) as age and alcoholism sends his own ca- in the second season. This book is already considered a modern reer into a downward spiral. classic and stands out for many reasons. In cinemas from 11 October The Crown At the very least, it is surprising that an Great empires are always inspiring. This English-speaking writer created a book First Man (US) show follows the political rivalries and ro- about Dostoevsky, who fell in love with St One more look at the life of astro- mances of Queen Elizabeth II, her reign, Petersburg in the autumn. naut, Neil Armstrong, and the legendary and the events that shaped the second th space mission that led him to become the half of the 20 century. first man to walk on the Moon on 20 July 1969. Played by Ryan Gosling with The Crown’s Claire Foy playing his wife, good performances are guaranteed. In cinemas from 18 October

A Сity Where Money Does Not Go (UA) Based on Andriy Kuzma’s short story, this is a story about time, freedom of choice, a closed society, and a person who is strug- gling against the system. Work on the film lasted about five-and-a-half years. The storyline was plotted by Kuzma in 2013, two years before the death of this author. In cinemas from 13 September Things To Change From Yesterday • Start watching a TV-series in its original language • Start sorting your rubbish • Stop taking your work home

27 What’s All the Fuss

Below Ramblings of a Single by Kira Malko Guy Stuck in Kyiv Lately, plenty of cruise Andrew Burns ship job offers have inundated the Ukrain- HERE’S THE REALITY • The most attention most any foreign ian market. HR man- man will get will likely be from a single agers actively recruit ...on being a single foreign man in Ukraine middle-aged mother who doesn’t speak those ‘dedicated to the high- or just being a single man with a couple vol- very good English and at best is a 5-6. est level of guest satisfaction and excel- umes of old and current playbooks. If you’re lucky and don’t care about lence’ – pool boys, stewards, floor runners, I’ll admit that I’m sucker for brunettes; “the baggage”, 6-7 will be the best you buffet attendants, butlers, cleaners, and especially if they have light eyes. Coming can do. entertainers. Is it a dream job and a guar- from the US, and having lived in eight dif- • If you are a traditional guy and want a anteed way to travel in style or self-effacing ferent states, in five major cities, and “bless- traditional family like I do, then focusing drudgery and exhausting toil? Below sheds ed” to have resided in areas with a larger on the mid- to late-20s may be the way the light on this issue. percentage of attractive women, the dark- haired blue-eyed species was rare. to go. Your chances of having more 7s THE TRUTH UNDERNEATH With dreams of meeting such angels for over and 8s increases, but you yourself also need to be a well-rounded 7. Which, I Everything hidden beneath the fourth deck a decade, a dating site for Baltic, European, think I am. Give anyone a couple drinks of a cruise ship is referred to as ‘below’. and Slavic women was brought to my atten- and I could pass for a 9, but the hangover Everything stretching overhead is logically tion, and it quickly became apparent that might make me a 5-6. But enough with touted as ‘above’. The fourth deck is the my best calculated chance for trapping this the numbers. so-called demarcation line, something like rare breed was here in Ukraine. • Guys, you need to have a sense of hu- a zero floor in hotels, which allows you to Many beauties have come and gone in mour. There is a caveat however. The dry cross the ship from its bow and stern. It is those years, including three three-year dark sense of humour and/or sarcasm a sort of axis piercing the vessel and split- relationships, a brief marriage, and three doesn’t translate, even if they speak good ting it into two parallel universes. Beneath six-monthers. Of those, there was only wo book club wo English. I still often manage to say some- posh staterooms, smartly decorated loung- one I actually had withdrawals from. The thing that unintentionally offends them: es, high-end restaurants, and cosy cafés of rest – like a stick of gum from a pack of Them: “Ugh my hair looks terrible today.” the ‘above’ world there is a mysterious crew “Zoo Animals” (a cheap but large pack of Me: “I wasn’t going to say anything, but and maintenance empire with its own rules gum with multiple flavour options made yeah...what happened?!” and hierarchical structure. It conceals dark only in the US). My point? The flavour Even said with the cutest of smiles, 99% secrets and intrigue, the truth stripped of was gone from the gum, relationships had of the time you’re just going to offend, so any conduct code, failures and questionable lost their intrigue. stay away from the sarcasm. Likewise, if achievements, hatred and confessions, dirty Fast forward 10 plus years and the insti- they try to be funny or do something off linen and noble aspirations. And, of course, gation of Operation Vacation Ukraine. the wall, you cannot call them silly. This an engine, the driving force behind every After months of research, literally hun- translates as fool, and you’re basically call- action. Whatever makes the ship move for- dreds of Tinder “passport” connections, ing them stupid. ward is located here. WhatApp/Viber conversations, and troll- • Intelligence and self confidence goes Polina, the main protagonist, stands in ing dating sites, my plan started out as a a long way, but talk about yourself all front of a cruise ship in the port of Hono- 10-day vacation to Kyiv, Lviv, and Odesa. night with a mixture of quantum me- lulu. She, a highly skilled expert with two Maybe you have heard of or are wondering chanics and you can forget it. diplomas, has swapped her marketing about companies that sell packaged tours for • I will be perfectly honest regarding what analyst chair at a Kyiv-based office for a men to cities in Ukraine where clients are I have seen, what is real, and what your waitress uniform. Faced with the next six thrown a party with an inordinate amount best chance is. If you are not success- months of short sleep in her tiny cabin be- of beautiful women or are set up on multi- ful with women in your country there low and passengers’ unbridled consump- ple dates by a matchmaker. Yeah – this was is probably a reason... For me, it was tion above, what is it she wants to leave be- not my game, and I only say that because I always a question of ROI: if the mon- hind? Who is the one she wants to forget? still actually have “game”. I mean this in the ey and time I put into the relationship Who is the one she wants to meet? What nicest way, but the true reality is these ser- doesn’t have multiple times the return happens on board stays on board. vices are usually purchased by old men who assume they will quickly win a trophy wife I’m not terribly interested. The excep- ABOUT THE AUTHOR to bring home to Alabama who will cook, tion is that she either had to be hot and happy, intelligent and a solid 6, or A sociologist by background, Kira Malko clean, and perform other wifely acts at the a porn star in bed. Be careful with the lives and works in Kyiv. She worked as a drop of a dime. former however as they are often dumb cruise ship server and described her own Here’s the thing and let me summarise: as rocks, and the sex, like chewing gum, experience in Below. This psychological, • The dimes (10s) and 9s are most likely will often lose flavour. ironic, feminist, and modern novel be- just out of your league, but for very good The furthest I’ll go out on a limb is to say came her successful literary debut and reasons. They tend to be either the cra- that you may need to put aside your mor- earned her the third prize of the Word ziest, most high maintenance, superficial, als as well as that photo of your mother on Coronation International Literary Com- selfish, insecure, jealous, and broke, with your bedside table to get the fast ones… petition. Malko’s essays are published in a dash of bad English, quick tempered, And if you are asking yourself who the fast Ukrainian and American Internet maga- uneducated, with daddy issues. These ones are and what’s this about my mama, zines The Devochki, The Establishment, are the ones men tend to dream of, send then check out next month’s issue – I’ll and ElectricLiterature. flowers to, and actually think they have a chance with. Don’t. have some more good tips.

28 What’s On Issue 14 15 October - 15 November 2018 history of showing festival films and retrospec- part read: “In the face of increased compe- Last Screening tives. There were plans to mark its 60th anni- tition in the film market, the commercial use of the cinema in its current state is considered Jared Morgan versary in November. Ukraina opened in 1964 as the first wides- inappropriate. The building, infrastructure, The final credits rolled and the lights went up creen cinema in Kyiv. It was to cement its technical capabilities and level of comfort do for the final time in two historic Kyiv cinemas place in history in 1965 when the premiere not meet modern requirements and require a on 30 September. The sudden closures of of the film Shadows of Forgotten Ancestors major upgrade. In the future, it is planned to both Ukraina and Kinopanorama cinemas by Sergei Parajanov took place. Alongside conduct a tender to select a contractor for ma- have left city cinephiles bereft. However, un- the premiere, Kyiv intelligentsia staged a jor repairs of the building with the possibility like the groundswell of support to restore the protest against a wave of political arrests of its re-engineering, including the possibility cinema Zhovten in Podil after it was exten- with luminaries such , Vasyl of film sales.” sively damaged by arson in October 2014, it Stus, Vyacheslav Chornovil and others tak- Sounds promising, right? Alas no… seems unlikely public outcry will save the cen- ing part. On 9 October, Zahoor stated the cinema tral city cinemas. After extensive renovation to bring it up to would be demolished with a three-star hotel Despite their historical and cultural value, speed with emerging multiplexes in city malls, built in its place. In a somewhat token gesture, both premises have long been privatised, and Ukraina was unveiled in its current form in Zahoor said out of respect for the history of the owners decided to close them whether 2001. In 2004, the Kyiv City Administration the site, the future hotel will feature a small by coincidence or design – on the same day. privatised it. The business was bought by room for screening movies, as well as func- Ukraina closed without any formal goodbye Ukrainian partnership Evgeniy Wilgin and tioning as a conference room. It will be called with staff requested to pen letters of resig- Igor Voronov; the building in which the cin- Panorama. nation, while Kinopanorama arranged a ema is located, was sold several months ago. Prior to the revelation of the hotel plans, a farewell evening before the screen dimmed The fate of it and the cinema has yet to be group on Facebook was created called Save forever. disclosed. Kinopanorama and Ukraina Cinemas, the Rumours had been circulating regarding the Kinopanorama’s fate on the other hand is membership quickly surpassed 1 000. On 2 fate of Ukraina on Arkhitektora Horodetsko- sealed. Privatised in 2008 and sold to the October, the group staged a protest against ho Street for months, however the announce- ISTIL Group led by British-Ukrainian busi- the closures outside the city administration, ment of the closure of Kinopanorama on nessman Mohammad Zahoor, it continued supported by directors, film critics, actors, and Shota Rustaveli Street came a mere two days functioning as a cinema. producers. before the last-ever screening, catching both Here is where the story takes on a twist wor- Whether this will change the situation is un- the public and staff off-guard. thy of any cinematic double cross. Coincid- clear. As, while the public can influence the Kinopanorama was built in 1958 as the ing with the dismissal of the cinema’s direc- local and central government, it has less teeth first experimental panoramic cinema in the tor Natalia Sobolev, followed by the sacking when it comes to private business. This battle USSR. It soon became known for cultivating of all staff on 28 September of this year, the is commerce vs culture. an art-house cinema environment with a long ISTIL Group released a statement, which in groups/463240897520726/

tinue development with Kyiv-based Дикий Театр (Wild Blood of Our Soil Theatre). It incorporates not only her baba’s senti- ments, but also the perspectives of over 40 people Lana Niland that she interviewed on a three-week research trip to Ukraine, including the Donbas region, Inspired by personal accounts from war-torn in October 2017. Ukraine in 1944 and true stories from the “One of the veterans we interviewed said that country’s current conflict, Blood of our Soil as theatre artists writing this play we are like is the newest creation of Canadian writer/ soldiers ourselves fighting this war the way actress Lianna Makuch. She brings her play that we can,” says Makuch. “I am always to Kyiv this month for a staged reading at the shocked at how the global community remain Les Kurbas Centre. It is timely, considering the seemingly unaware that a war is even occurring 5-year anniversary of Maidan is just around the in eastern Ukraine.” corner. Makuch says main character Hania is represent- Hania is a Ukrainian-Canadian woman encouraged ative of the general naivety of the North American by her baba to travel to Ukraine and seek out a missing population when it comes to the politics of the current piece of their family’s history. She is unprepared for the truths situation. “I hope to craft a balanced narrative that offers an and harsh realities of the past and present, however, as a life so much honest representation of the complex circumstances in Ukraine for unlike her own begins to surface. [global] audiences to learn about the war…and leave with a new- Based on a true accounts, Makuch says the idea for Blood of our Soil found understanding of the Ukrainian culture,” says Makuch honestly. came after discovering her baba’s detailed journal chronicling her Commissioning Ukrainian actors to take on the local cast, Makuch says emigration from Ukraine during World War II. there is a wonderful energy and thoughtfulness Looking for ways to bring this story to the stage, Blood of our Soil amongst the Ukrainian people: “There is a pas- it wasn’t until news reports of the Revolution of Staged Reading sionate magical disposition amongst the people Dignity started appearing on local television that 17 October at 20.00 here,” which makes it “difficult to witness the deep things really started to progress. Les Kurbas Centre (Volodymyrska 23b) frustration and grief. But born of this frustration is Now in its third iteration, Makuch and her team FREE a steadfast hope.” It is this hope Makuch, through have brought the play to Kyiv this month to con- events/710029636030781 Hania, will bring to the stage this October. photos credited to Pyretic Productions to Pyretic photos credited

29 What’s All the Fuss

Paul Niland The Museum of Corruption

SOME FRIENDS CAME TO VISIT, ONE EACH FROM CANADA, THE UK, AND SOUTH AFRICA. DISCUSSING THEIR ITINERARY OF “MUST SEE” THINGS IN KYIV, THE MEZHYGIR MANSION CAME UP. SO ONE SUNNY DAY, OFF WE WENT TO KYIV’S ‘MUSEUM OF CORRUPTION’

ian loaf of bread in the window. The The garage contains mostly classic cars, height of cynicism, mocking a staple food a collection of many Soviet-era limou- for many poor Ukrainians, this was pre- sines, a few military vehicles, and half a Upon arrival, there was a wide choice of sented to Yanukovych by one of his more- dozen motorcycles. Among them sat also transport options, segues were 500 UAH money-than-brains cronies as a birthday a brand-new Mercedes SLS ($200,000 re- an hour, bicycles 300 UAH for two hours, gift. As unofficial tour guide, I explained tail price) and a Brabus tuned Mercedes G and there were electric scooters and mo- also that, when I first toured the house, we Wagen (probably worth $150,000). Most peds too. The group decision (democracy were told that the most valuable item that likely the most valuable piece in the collec- in action at Mezhyhirya, that’s ironic!) was had been left after Yanukovych had spent tion is a 1950s Bentley, one of only 200 of to rent bikes. three days sending trucks of loot to Russia this model ever produced. was a painting valued at $4 million. Im- OPEN HOME agine a $4 million painting being the thing TAKING IT ALL IN Our next wallet opening exercise was to pay you’ve not got room for! From the garage we swung past a guest 2 the entrance fee, 120 UAH per adult. And, cottage, of about 1 000 m , and then on we were in! This was not the first time I had SIZE MATTERS to a massive hill climb to bring us to the crossed through these gates and entered this From the fitness centre we pedaled round helicopter landing pad from which Yanu- territory, the first time was on 22 February to the main house: our small company kovych had fled about eight hours before 2014, the day the revolution ended. That of visitors were blown away by its sheer I first entered this estate. Here, we took a day, my wife (the owner and Editor-in-Chief scale. More blown away too when I told much-needed break to catch our collec- of this fine publication) woke me with the them this had been designed and built tive breath. words: “Yanukovych is gone. They’re open- essentially for just two occupants, Yanu- Back in the saddle, and now on flat roads, ing Mezhyhirya. Get up. Get dressed. Let’s kovych, and his lady friend. They occu- we soon entered what is one of the nic- go!” To enter that much mythical place that pied separate bedrooms on the top floor, est parts of the property, the private golf day was euphoric and surreal. Today’s visit each replete with apartment-sized clos- course. Here we got the full sense of what was a little more laid back. ets and bathrooms. From the entrance Mezhyhirya is really about today. All over side of the house, we moved round to this carpet of grass, families played. Kids OSTENTATIOUS the ground floor under the balconies ran around excitedly, not knowing what Anyone who wants to do a tour of the overlooking the Kyiv Sea. Had the house their mums and dads, grandmas and main house enters though the fitness cen- looked big before, now it looked massive, granddads, had gone through to deliv- tre, and to mark the entrance is a chunk of because, well, it is. er them this opportunity over the winter pure gold shaped like a common Ukrain- months of 2013 – 2014. FLASH WHEELS The thing that surprised me the most on A long and steep path leads down to the this trip to Mezhyhirya was just how many shore of the Kyiv Sea, where bikes must people were there, enjoying what has be- be walked to stop people from getting come, in every way, the people’s house. injured. From there a pleasant seven or eight minutes at a sedate pace brought us to the Galleon, where Yanukovych used to play cards with his (equally cor- Mezhigirya National Park ¾ rupt) houseguests. And from the Galleon 08.00-19.00 (where visitors will find a café and bath- Ivana Franka 19, village room facilities) we headed next to the ga- 20-120 UAH rage, another ten minutes by bike. mnp.org.ua

30 What’s On Issue 14 15 October - 15 November 2018 How to Expat – Language Learning

Lee Reaney

WE ARE ALREADY BACK TO SCHOOL, WHICH MAKES IT THE PERFECT TIME TO HUNKER DOWN AND FINALLY PICK UP ONE OF THOSE PESKY LANGUAGES THAT YOU’VE BEEN MEANING TO LEARN. IN A CITY THE SIZE OF KYIV, YOU HAVE PLENTY OF OPTIONS AND WILL BE ABLE TO FIND THAT WHICH SUITS ANY SCHEDULE AND LEVEL. WHETHER YOU WANT THE CHALLENGE OF A UNIVERSITY COURSE, THE PERSONAL ATTENTION OF ONE-ON-ONE LESSONS, THE CAMARADERIE OF GROUP CLASSES, OR THE FLEXIBILITY OF ONLINE PROGRAMS – CLASSES OF ALL SORTS ARE AVAILABLE. YOU JUST NEED TO DECIDE WHAT LANGUAGE TO LEARN

UKRAINIAN OR RUSSIAN? CLASSES APLENTY! INTIMATE STUDY The defining cultural and political ques- Russian is generally taught in classes ac- One of the most popular ways to learn tion of Ukraine’s first quarter-century of cording to the Common European Frame- languages is from a personal tutor. independence was language. Obviously, work of Reference for Languages (CEFR). There are plenty of entrepreneurial with the events in Crimea and Eastern These are six classes with two exams at Ukrainians out there looking to make a Ukraine, this question has taken on an each level – beginner, intermediate, and little extra cash on the side by helping entirely new dynamic. The vast majori- advanced. Ukrainian does not have a foreigners learn their language. Like the ty of Ukrainians are functionally, if not CEFR exam and most institutions offer a private schools, not all options are com- fluently, bilingual. That said, language single class at each level. Many foreigners parable. Be sure to check their creden- choice represents deep cultural values choose to learn at private schools as they tials and experience. Maybe even do a and Ukrainians regularly judge each oth- are, generally speaking, more familiar with test lesson before committing. Generally, er on their choice of tongue. Foreigners that crowd. There are plenty of options and the rates are very affordable and there don’t face quite the same judgement, they are not created equally. Be sure to ask are absolute gems of teachers waiting to although Ukrainians will note your lan- your friends and check around on expat fo- be discovered. There are plenty of op- guage choice. rums to find which works best for you. tions available online as well, with many The Cyrillic alphabet is not difficult to Among the more popular schools are In- of them including one-on-one time with learn, there is no defined word order, and ternational House Kyiv (ihkyiv.com/en), a local speaker via Skype. Some of the three tenses dominate, so the languages Alma Language School (almaschool.com. most popular programs include Rosetta aren’t as daunting as they first seem. Most ua), and Nova Mova (novamova.net). Stu- Stone, Duolingo, or even clips on You- foreigners choose to learn Russian – not dents looking to get academic credit for Tube. Of course, you can always buy a so much because it is easier, but because their work should check out courses at textbook and learn on your own from the language can be used in other coun- Shevchenko University (langcenter.knu. home. Some of the best include Yablu- tries outside of Ukraine. Foreigners that ua/en) or Mohyla Academy (dfc.ukma. ko, Ukrainian for Speakers of English, choose to learn Ukrainian may find it edu.ua/coming-to-naukma/Ukraini- Colloquial Ukrainian/Russian, Tochka will set them apart from other expats who an-language-courses). Most courses can Ru, and Holosa. choose to learn Russian, but at the end be tailored to your schedule and budget, No matter which method you prefer, set of the day – Ukrainians will be happy if so be sure to ask. Many also include lan- your goals and get out there and start you make the effort to communicate with guage-speaking clubs, giving you an op- speaking! them in either language. portunity to test out your new language skills with others at the same level.

31 What’s On the Menu

IL RICCO OPENED JUST TWO MONTHS AGO, AND IF THEIR MENU IS AS GOOD AS THE GRAPEVINE SUGGESTS, THEN THIS PODIL DWELLING VENUE WILL QUICKLY BECOME ONE OF THE TOP EATERIES ON THE ITALIAN MENU CIRCUIT

Paul Niland

ItalianRich Treats

My date for the evening is more hairy menus. Joe is a simple kind of things. I’m not a jazz fan, I’d than I would normally go for. But, who of bloke, and he’s plumping rather pull my ears off than listen cares what anybody thinks? As we ar- for a bruschetta to start: “The to it, and I wonder why restaurateurs rive at the venue, I inform him that even true test of any Italian restaurant,” he would chose to play such dividing music. though he’s getting a free dinner, I’m not tells me, and then seafood risotto to fol- expecting anything from him afterwards. low. I order the duck pate and ossobuco. MOVING TO MAINS He laughs and says “good”. Boundaries As the music returns to something nor- established, we enter the restaurant. APPETISERS AND NOISE mal, where all of the musicians are in the This venue located not far from Kontrak- It’s not long until the first courses are same rhythm and key and follow a com- tova Plosha is large. But with its vaulted served. Along with a huge board full of mon beat, our main courses arrive. The ceilings and Mediterranean pastel colour- assorted breads, a large dollop of pate is seafood risotto is simply described: “not ed walls it feels inviting and warm. placed in front of me, and a massive brus- overpowering but a nice taste” and I am chetta for my companion. The bruschetta told that it is packed with a lovely variety GAZING INTO A FISHBOWL is piled high with various toppings: lightly of fruits de mer. My ossobuco is a good- As we sit down, Joe tells me that if he seared tuna, a mixture of vegetable, and sized chunk of meat, and though it is were a single guy in Kyiv, this is exactly lots of spinach leaves. The pate is simply smothered in a rich sauce, the meat itself the kind of place he would take someone superb. is a little dry. Not disappointing, because to on a date. He then gets up to examine At this point though, I have a niggly there are some fine tastes in this dish. the menu, parts of which are swimming complaint. The music has been pleasant in tanks of water waiting to be selected by enough so far, but then it starts going off JUST NO DESSERTS diners. The crab and the lobster on dis- in a jazzy direction, and jazz, like marm- Due to the size of the starters, we have play are not large – they’re huge! Without ite, is one of those love it or hate it kind to reject offers of dessert. As the last of too much prodding, we’re told the crab the wine (a pleasant Australian shiraz) is is imported from Kamchatka, the oysters being poured by the sommelier we reflect from France, the lobsters Canadian, while on the evening while we are waiting for a their fish comes predominantly from Tu- cab. “Would you come back again?” is the nisia and Sri Lanaka. obvious test for any restaurant, and the It’s always good to see fresh fish sitting answer in this case is, yes. For me, howev- in tanks, but it’s better to be able to see er, perhaps with someone sporting a little the kitchen where they will be prepared, less facial hair next time. and in the case of Il Riccio (which google Il Riccio is a fine place to enjoy good food translates as “hedgehog”. This surprises in pleasant surroundings, and – very im- me, but I’m not changing the title of the portantly, no hedgehogs were harmed feature) the open kitchen is like the shell- during the writing of this review. fish they offer and the restaurant itself – EDIBLE INVENTORY Bruschetta 155 UAH huge. THE WHAT’S ON CHECK LIST Duck Pate 175 UAH We turn our attention away from the dé- ü Seafood Risotto 355 UAH English menu: (in small numbers) cor, resplendent with romantic candles ü Osso bucco English-speaking staff: though it is, and we start to focus on the ü with Saffron Risotto 295 UAH Wifi: Reisling, 150 ml x 3 180 UAH Price: $$ MAKE SURE YOU TRY Ausrtalian shiraz, bottle 880 UAH All the shellfish! Jameson’s Whiskey 120 UAH Il Riccio Crab meat salad Cola 35 UAH Kontraktova Pl 8 with avocado 495 UAH ¾ 12:00 – 00:00 Banana lasagne TOTAL 2 555 UAH ilriccio.rest with coconut ice cream 158 UAH +380 95 280 6430

32 What’s On Issue 14 15 October - 15 November 2018

What’s On the Menu

COFFEE WHY NOT Welcome to a new place for coffee and dessert lovers! Coffee Why Not has opened between Klovska and Pecherska metro stations, and is “a place that in- spires a good day!” Here you can relax, drink some coffee, and eat healthy desserts. By heathy, we mean that Coffee Why Not offers a variety of desserts made with natural ingredients Natalia Kurtyak and without additives. These yummies are KHLEBNIY free from flour and sugar – just fruit and The interior of the venue is a fresh take on nuts. Even though the ingredients may the architecture and history of the build- seem very simple, the desserts themselves ing (Stalin’s period), and a reinterpretation look like masterpieces and it proves rather of its past in a modern way. The feel is nice difficult not to want to try them all. enough: pleasant brown shades is the eye In addition, they serve toast and crois- candy, with massive wooden furniture and sants here. Make sure you try toast with large metal decorations interweaving and jamon and cherry tomatoes (99 UAH) –

Coffee bringing it all together. it’s wonderful. “Three thousand years ago, bread came treat yourself treat out of a combination of flour, salt, water, and yeast. It took us a little less time to real- ise that in this formula you can find love – for yourself and your loved ones. This love is in every loaf of ours!” – as they say in Khlebniy. As such, it won’t surprise you that the menu highlight is bread! With eight variants to choose from, wheat baguette (25 UAH), a typical loaf (20 UAH), and Ukrainian bread (30 UAH) are among them. In addition, you can order bakery-fare like They also have a wide choice in terms of rolls, croissants, bagels, and doughnuts. coffee with delightful flavours: cappuccino The head baker, Vladyslav Marchuk, takes

New spots to (32 UAH), espresso (23 UAH), pour-over care of your food choices, with different (40 UAH) to name a few. What’s more, you kinds of hot and cold sandwiches also. can choose lactose-free, almond, or soy milk If you are a breakfast lover, then Khlebniy instead of the real thing. has options for you too: chia pudding, Eng- Or, warm yourself with a cup of tea: buck- lish muffins with avocado, and scrambled

Café & thorn, cranberry, ginger, barberry, or just eggs and salmon are just mouthwatering! herbal – they’ve got a great selection. What’s more, there is a large coffee menu. A branch of cotton painted on the wall The barista is Slava Babych – the current hints at the comforting spirit of the ven- world champion in making coffee in cezve. ue. And it’s true, because staying here for But don’t despair, as espresso (25 UAH), a while slows time, allowing you to forget cappuccino (40 UAH), chemex (55 UAH), about all your worries. The simple interior and filter coffee (40 UAH), among others, is widened by white-painted walls, and min- are also available! imalistic furniture – everything needed for a nice venue. In addition, they are pet-friend- ly, so you and your furry friends can enjoy Khlebniy A new café and bakery, some time-out together! V Vasylkivska 67/7 Khlebniy, opened its ¾ 7.30 – 22.00 Coffee Why Not khlebmylife Lesi Ukrainky Blvd 11 Insta khleniy doors to customers near ¾ Mon/Fri 8.00 – 22.00 +380 44 466 0604 ¾ Sat/Sun 9.00 – 21.00 Olimpiyska metro station coffee.placewhynot.com THE WHAT’S ON CHECK LIST coffeeplacewhynot English Menu (partially) û a very short time ago coffee_why_not English-speaking staff ü +380 66 093 1949 Wifi ü Price $$ THE WHAT’S ON CHECK LIST WO Rating English Menu (partially) ü English-speaking staff ü Wifi ü Price $$ WO Rating

34 What’s On Issue 14 15 October - 15 November 2018

36 Anna Azarova What’s OntheM

What’s OnIssue 1415October -15November 2018 Lokum Burger (with cheddarLokum Burger cheese) and cheese) with eggplant (kebab Simet Sarma MAKE SURE YOU TRY INCLUSIVE VACATION ORGREASY THIS TO BEAMISCONCEPTIONAS DISHES CERTAINLY WORTH YOUR apparent in every designdetail, ambient restaurant’s maître d’hôtel, claims.is This ally, it is ‘above law’, MilanOsman,the Here, hospitality rules above all – actu moment we set foot over the threshold. aristocracythe very well as asenseof Pasha embraces us with friendliness as approach. trends, localexpectations, andaunique national ish combined with global cuisine of Turk versions refined most the offers ing anewtwistto the city’s food scene – it claimed popularity add spot has dining catches the eye. Unveiled in August, this buzzesand restaurants, withbars Pasha, Sprawling above a downtown street that WARMTH OF HEART AND HEARTH ASSOCIATED WITHACHEAPALL- WHILE. EMBARK ONACULINARY IT SERVES PREMIUMCLASSJAW- DROPPING ANDLIP-SMACKING KEBAB BOOTH. PASHA PROVES JOURNEY TO DISCOVER REAL LUXURIOUS, ANDTASTEFUL TURKEY –CONTEMPORARY,

TURKISH FOODISOFTEN

255 UAH 225 UAH Authentic - - -

Turkey enu and warmth owing to a rich Ottoman and warmth cosiness interior createsThe a feeling of element, orstaffgesture. he al ftender yet piquant goat – three balls of masterpiece, being alsoafeast to the eye we thatagree unanimously a must-eat itis gulp, first At pate. of type certain a – appetiser first the us brings server The with asaltycrust. a spit on Sundaysor veal baked inspices naturefor dish, example, awhole lambon daythe restaurant treats itsgueststoasig In addition to its impressive menu, every pagne inFrance. status inTurkey assakeinJapan orcham and significance same the has which ka, a ritual,raki, ananiseedinfusedvod as is including vegetarian. They are more like tastes hot starters, catering to a variety of staples cover renowned mezes, coldand ona tender meats. other The wide selection of feast can eater’ ‘flesh a Pasha, At Turkish meals. specialities are adominantfeature of and fordough to upto ws be baked crispy heat conserves it off, turned When rules. stone andmetal, according totraditional clay,oven constructed out of –fyryn, and traditional Turkishgentinian grill by alarge open kitchen boasting an Ar is further enhanced warmth senseof The from theirnative country. bulgur andlentil), and pastesdelivered ucts except for certain spices, cereals (rice, Turkish.For cooking, they use local prod are Pasha’s includingthe chef personnel the sea. It is fair enough since 60-70% of Istanbul –though,without remind usof ed lattice chandeliersresembling the sun bles, andhandcraft oriental ornaments, blue.and sumptuous Heavywooden ta golden yellow with apredominance of brightvibrant colours Empire palette of ort.Aan og n efare key vourite. dough andbeef Again, weThen order Pasha Kebab, a guest fa ian sourcream. between cottage cheeseUkrain and thick something being itself, in self-sufficient is served withhomemade yoghurt, which cate zucchini-and-carrot cakes Mücver deli the love definitely will Vegetarians has itsown distinctive style. pepper. Visually similar to Italian pizza, it topped with mincedbeef, cheese, andbell – dough–freshlythe fyryn in cooked of er, arrives at the table. It is athinlayer Our party continues as Pide, ahotstart flavours. symphony of a harmonious notes play their individual parts to create Salty, sweet, and bitter tastes with spicy jam andchili pepper.with raspberry cheese mixed withsoftfeta and garnished PATE, PIDE, AND KEBAB browned on both sides. Dough based ------decide to explore the cocktail list. Sweet desserts, we forgo sweets and Instead of night’s carnivorous pleasures. beef succulent wonder) course. hummus Nourishing with (small wine, which nicelycomplimentsour main Angora, authentic Turkishred full-bodied Kavaklıdere of glass a take we down, it mato salsaandpistachio crumb. To wash pleasantly enriched withto coalled grill char mouth-wateringaroma smoky of in lavash,meat the succulent juicy a has layeredElegantly thedish. elements of TOTAL RoseCherry Bellini Spice Twist Humus with paprika Peynirli Pate Pide Karisik Pasha Kebabi ¾ Pasha Turkish Grill becomes milder. whenchange the seasons and the weather is sureterrace to be a fashionable space the synagogue. Out-of-season now, the Sport, Gulliver mall, and shopping ace of Pal the of view magnificent and kitchen with anautonomous summer terrace Pashafeaturesalso rooftop aspacious the country. name suggests, the spirit of more complicated blend that reflects, as its tainly catch agirls’ fancy. Spice Twist isa Roseand smooth Cherry Bellini willcer WO Rating Price Wifi staff English-speaking Menu (partially) English EDIBLE INVENTORY FOLLOWING TRENDS THE WHAT’S ON CHECK LIST Shota Rustaveli 16A Shota Rustaveli +38

pasha.kyivrest 12.00 0 504405433 – 0

2.00

rounds-off 979 UAH 165 UAH 125 UAH 135 UAH 265 UAH 190 UAH 99 UAH to $$ ü ü ü - - - - -

What’s In Focus

TALK LESS, SAY MORE The Women’s Executives Leadership Devel- opment Initiative (WELDI) by the American Chamber of Commerce in Ukraine unites over 400 high-level managers – successful, goal-ori- ented, and modern female leaders. The sunny morning of 5 October started with an inspiring WELDI Business Breakfast at Gurama, featur- ing Yaryna Klyuchkovska, an expert in strategic and crisis communications. An interesting and dynamic discussion was set around the role of communication in building your personal repu- tation and the reputation of your company. John D. Rockefeller, an American oil magnate and philanthropist, was first person to hire a PR spe- cialist. One hundred years later, Klyuchkovska talked about how far the communication indus- try has come since then.

A FAN OF THE WEEKEND Kyiv’s international busi- ness community celebrated the start of the weekend on 6 October at Fandom. There were delicious des- serts, a bountiful bar menu and an inspired interior with The Big Meet. Will you hit up the next Big event?

38 What’s On Issue 14 15 October - 15 November 2018

What’s In Focus

A BATTLE FOR BEAUTY Twenty-four beauties competed, but on 24 September, it was Leonila Guz of the Kherson region who took the title “most beautiful” along with the crown in Kyiv at the International 2018 beauty pageant showcased on 1+1. In fact, the crown initially went to Veron- ica Didusenko, who was stripped of it once judges learned she was married. Guz will repre- sent Ukraine this year at the Miss World in China in December – good luck!

40 What’s On Issue 14 15 October - 15 November 2018

What’s Up for Grabs All Over snap a pic with WO Kyiv

We’re making it easier than ever to WIN a whole schwack of stuff post to our social networks with WHAT’S ON – all you gotta do is snap a shot of you and your favourite mag – What’s On somewhere in the capital and then with tag #WhatsOnAllOverKyiv throw us the file by email, post it to Facebook, tweet it to Twitter, or upload to Instgram. Just remember to be creative and original! The best photos – and winners – will be announced in the next month’s * printed magazine – FAME AT LAST! Prizes change regularly – announcements for which will be made across all of our social media channels, with multiple possible win- ners each month!! So what are you waiting for Kyiv – get snapping! WIN a prize! First winner will be announced in the next issue!

H C st

A set o hand-embroidered Christmas ornaments or that etra special estive season hese decorations last a lietime Ho ho ho 1 it set worth 1 400 UAH

M Win a beautiul eaturing the traditional ree o Lie nd embroidery Made o natural stretch linen ashionably designed and richly embroidered this piece will add a little panache to your krainian wardrobe Prie worth 1 800 UAH 2

* Rules: Photos to appear in print must be a high res file, so make sure you set all smart phone settings to AND THE PRIZES GO TO highest possible quality. If others are in the photo with Raisa Kovalenko and Vasylysa Vlasenko — our you, it’s your responsibility to make sure they’re cool winners for September in the What’s On All Over Kyiv with you submitting the image. i.e. that drunken selfie at a party not always the best choice. Submit entries competition. Congrats! by email to [email protected] or on our social media channels, Facebook, Twitter, or Instagram – just Want to win cool stuff? Take a snap with What’s On use the hashtag #WhatsOnAllOverKyiv. What’s On and post to our FB, Insta, or Twitter accounts – staff choose winners, the final say of which is entirely it’s that easy! at our discretion, with no favouritism given to friends or family.

42 What’s On Issue 14 15 October - 15 November 2018